Jan feb 2014 web lr

Jan/Feb 2014

www.probeauty.co.za

Spa-tacular 2014 spa trends

The C-word Obliterating cellulite

Medical Aesthetics Combining anti-ageing treatments

Rainbow Nation

African and Asian skin examined

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25 16

In this issue...

Regulars

Business

5 Industry news

34 The Business of Beauty

Local and international news from the beauty front

Strategising for 2014

22 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys

Spa Focus

13 Spa Trends 2014

More than just a headache

37 Treatment reviews

61 Product news

All the latest launches

66 Hair news

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

68 SAAHSP

Effective cellulite solutions

What’s happening at SAAHSP

What this year holds for the industry

16 Paternoster guest house opens spa

Nails

Healing Earth Spa now at Abalone House

48 Consultation

Medical Aesthetics 57 Perfect mix

57

Combining anti-aging treatments

The most vital step to assessing clients’ needs

Features 25 Colour spectrum

42

48

Unique characteristics of African & Asian skin

45 Going the distance

Permanent makeup makes its mark

18 Professional Beauty Cape Town

Premier industry event

20 Professional Beauty Network in CT

The Network comes to Cape Town

54 Supplements

Essential dietary add-ons

42 Unlocking food labels

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Good food equals healthy skin and body

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

Welcome

O

k, so I’m faced with a huge challenge – to live up to the excellent standard set by my highly esteemed predecessor, Sally Harvey, who you all got to know so well over the past seven years. Fortunately, however, I love a good challenge and am all geared up to meet this particular one.

A complete ‘newbie’ in the wonderful world of pro beauty and medical aesthetics, my first two months on the job comprised an intriguing mix of treatments, spa visits, launches and being bombarded by an enormous batch of the latest beauty products. The fact that there is always a constant stream of new products on the market is indicative of the dynamic and progressive nature of this industry – it just never sits still. There are always fascinating new technological developments in the universal and eternal quest to look beautiful and youthful. So I feel very fortunate to be given the opportunity to write about this exciting industry.

But enough about me. This inaugural Professional Beauty issue of 2014 is all about you, the reader, as it’s packed full of interesting and informative articles.

Jan/Feb 2014

Subscribe 9 issues for R450 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

www.probeauty.co.za

Spa-tacular 2014 spa trends

The C-word Obliterating cellulite

Medical Aesthetics Combining anti-ageing treatments

Rainbow Nation

On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com

African and Asian skin examined

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com and www.dreamstime.com

Publisher Mark Moloney

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Art Director Ursula Wong

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Accounts Manager Unathi Diko

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Sales Manager Belinda Wewege

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Senior Sales Executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703

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Sales Executive - Classifieds Knowledge Tenza 072 190 4820 knowledge@probeauty.co.za Subscriptions Phillip Nkomo

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Marketing Co-ordinator Palisa Shongwe 011 781 5970

palisa@tetradeevents.com

Printers House of Print

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

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industry news

5

News

All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails

Young Nails SA’s 10th anniversary

O

n 23 November 2013 Young Nails South Africa celebrated its 10th anniversary at a yearend function and prize-giving evening held at Goodies for Gardens in Glen Marais, Kempton Park.

Professional Beauty asked Young Nails South Africa’s Yolande Bekker about the secret to the company’s longevity. “Young Nails is a brand name product with excellent quality.

We have the best educators and we live by our motto: ‘It’s all about you’.

Young Nails always strives to offer the best customer service possible. We share our knowledge and are always willing to help,” she said.

In 2013 Bekker received the Professional Beauty Entrepreneur of the Year Award, with the company a finalist in the Best Supplier category.

A year earlier Young Nails South Africa received the Professional Beauty Award for Best Customer Care.

“Ten years ago I came across the Young Nails Inc. brand and people who offered me the support and

understanding to build a successful company. I wanted something more than just pink and white nails. My aim was to move forward with technology and Young Nails Inc. offered that.

Today we have 18 distributors all

over South Africa and we supply our products to qualified nail technicians only,” commented Bekker.

Young Nails South Africa’s international diplomas are recognised in over 60 countries.

Status Cosmetics launched Sulé Loggenberg of Permanent Makeup Technology has announced the company’s new division, Status Cosmetics.

She explains: “Status Cosmetics products are paraben-free, mineralbased and good for your skin, lips eyes and brows. This range has been designed to be suitable for all skin types – light, dark, oily or dry. Products include a lash and

online at www.probeauty.co.za

brow serum, a concealer, eye and brow retractable pencils, mascara, a lipstick and lip pencils.”

Status Cosmetics also recently introduced the first-of-its-kind range – the Fantasy Collection Kayloë makeup – for little girls. Kayloë makeup is nontoxic, fun to use, easy to remove and the eye shadow can be used as face paint when wet. For more information email info@statuscosmetics.co.za

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

industry news

6 News in brief Arabella Hotel & Spa

■ SA spas up for global award: The Spa at the Arabella Hotel & Spa, Kleinmond; One&Only Cape Town Spa; and The Spa at the Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa, Cape Town, are shortlisted for the Hotel Spa in Africa category of the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2014, which take place in London on 23 February.

■ New Sorbet Drybars: In December two new Sorbet Drybar hair salons opened in Johannesburg – at the Bedford Centre and in Hurlingham. These salons follow on from the pilot Sorbet Drybar in Dunkeld West, which opened in August 2012.

■ SOHO in mainstream media: The 2012 and 2013 winner of the Professional Beauty Award for Nail Salon of the Year, SOHO Nails, Waxing, Beauty, was the subject of an article published in the Verve section of The Star on 22 November. SOHO founder and owner Getty Gizaw was also featured in Drum Entrepreneur.

■ Double Serum success: The seventh generation of Clarins’ anti-ageing treatment, Double Serum, was highlighted at a Clarins Group press event held in Johannesburg on 20 November.

Worldwide there is one Double Serum sold every 30 seconds and the product has won 55 awards.

■ Correction: The September 2013 issue of Professional Beauty incorrectly attributed three photos published on page 61 of the Teenage Acne Special Feature. The photos were in fact taken from a case study conducted by ANESI Beaute.

See page 60.

Milk Solutions revamps brand

T

he Milk Solutions line of professional manicure and pedicure products has been repackaged and expanded to create a comprehensive offering for all needs.

Milk Solutions also boasts a brand new website and online shop (www.milksolutions.com).

Says Karen Ellithorne, CEO of Milk Solutions: “With the recent local and international growth spurt in the manicure and pedicure sector, we decided that we would lose out if we did not upgrade the look and feel of our brand.

“It was our goal to have resultsdriven products paired with a young, vibrant and fun feel, which I believe the new look has achieved. We have also incorporated a paraben-free line, with some unique fragrances to enhance the treatment experience.”

Milk Solutions’ daily social media feeds include product focuses, celebrity trends, and tips of the week.

Teen range gets makeover Dermalogica’s teenage acne range of products, Clean Start, is getting a make-over. The new and improved range, called Clear Start, will be launched as a new segment within the Dermalogica family in March 2014.

Says Dermalogica’s Jane Wurwand: “Body and psyche are always intertwined, and this crossover feels especially intense during adolescence in particular.

Acne’s scars are deeply felt on the soul as well as on the skin, so we developed Clear Start to intercept acne before the symptoms escalate,

Jane Wurwand and also to teach young adults, teens and even younger tweens healthy skin care habits.”

New appointment at LTI Lilian Terry International (LTI) has appointed a new general administrator – Nanette Maartens.

“Nanette has a background and education in the beauty industry and this, combined with her years of dealing with clients, makes her an asset to the LTI team. We wish her many happy years with us,” says LTI general manager Carli Argirova.

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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industry news

9

Are you looking for a gel nail system which…

• soaks off very easily?

Juliette Armand launched in SA

• does not damage the natural nail?

• does not lift?

• is soft, flexible and natural-looking?

• comes in an ever-growing range of colours?

• makes nail art easy? ... is the answer.

Janine Janse van Rensburg

T

he luxury but affordable Greek skin care brand, Juliette Armand, was launched to the Johannesburg media on 19 November at the Life Day Spa Rosebank by exclusive South African distributor Poise Brands.

The Cape Town media launch took place the previous week at the Life Day Spa at the Crystal Towers Hotel.

During the Johannesburg launch Poise Brands MD and founder Janine Janse van Rensburg told Professional Beauty that she and her team visited the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna beauty show in Italy earlier this year, looking for a unique, niche brand to complement Poise’s popular existing brand, Mama Mio. “There are a phenomenal amount of good skincare brands available in South Africa, but not a lot that offer international formulations at an affordable price point for the price-conscious consumer. Juliette Armand’s formulations are amazing. For instance, if you look at an ingredient like hyaluronic acid, there are five different molecular sizes which are used in various combinations, depending on which level of the skin you want to work on. Juliette Armand has all five different weights of hyaluronic acid in its laboratory,” said Janse van Rensburg.

The Athens-based company was started by husband-and-wife team Ioulia Armagou and Michalis Papaefstatiou, who are both chemists. Juliette Armand has over 50% market share in Greece and recently launched in the UK and Australia.

Three Juliette Armand specialist lines are available in South Africa – Skin Boosters Anti-Surgery System, Elements of Evolution, and Sunfilm.

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

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For further information, contact: Tel: 011 453-3256 and Cell: 082 312 0564

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industry news

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Farewell to beauty industry innovators

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Adele Sutton

Adele Sutton On 30 November 2013, successful businesswoman Adele Sutton was shot during a heist at the Engen Gateway petrol station in Centurion, Pretoria. She was seated in her vehicle when thieves exited the station café and opened fire at her through the car windscreen, killing her instantly.

Adele was born on 1 March 1969 in Virginia, Free State. An interior decorator and clothing boutique owner for many years, Adele began to explore the beauty industry in 2010. She soon discovered that eyelash enhancement was her passion. After months of intensive research she launched The Adele Sutton Range and the Lashcoat semi-permanent mascara.

Adele is survived by her children Xane, Shaunn, Tania, Meloney and Cloe, and has three grandchildren.

The company continues to operate as normal, with Xane in charge of Lashcoat and Tania continuing with the eyelash extension products.

Patricia Newsum Highly respected beauty industry veteran, Patricia Newsum of Symphony Health t/a Patricia Clarke, passed away in Gordon’s Bay on 5 January 2014.

Patricia was born in Liverpool, UK on 17 March 1943. She studied nursing at the Liverpool University Hospital and went on to become a theatre sister.

In 1971 Patricia moved to South Africa. After a few years she left nursing to focus on the slimming sector of the beauty industry. Patricia started her company in 1980 and became a pioneer of slimming treatments and garments in South Africa. Together with the assistance of a team of biologists and professors, she developed a special High Profile Gel. Over the years the formula for the gel improved to the extent that plastic surgeons sent their patients to Patricia for post-surgery treatment.

Patricia is survived by her husband Keith Newsum and three children.

Symphony Health t/a Patricia Clarke will continue business as usual under Keith Newsum.

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

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spa focus

13

Spa trends for 2014 What does the New Year hold for the spa industry in these recession-hit times? Marisa Dimitriadis predicts key trends for 2014.

U

npredictable was a word I heard a lot from many spa and salon owners in 2013. So, while spending habits in the consumer sector were semipredictable in 2012, last year brought a few surprises, with spend unpredictable right up to Christmas.

In light of this, I don’t believe 2014 will be predictable as the economy is still under strain and many people are playing catch-up. However, this doesn’t mean they are not spending; rather they are making more calculated and researched decisions before spending. What is important in 2014 is how quickly the salon and spa owner is able to act on consumer buying habits and how they embrace the changes evident in the industry.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

So let’s have a look at what 2014 has in store for us.

People buy people Rapport and relationships are going to be the name of the game this year. People want more love; they want to be appreciated and feel special in your business. So the focus needs to be on developing relationships. Find interesting ways to appreciate your clients and focus on nurturing them.

Simple, quick solutions These days consumers want the same results in a much shorter time frame. This does not mean that the typical 90-minute luxury facial must be forgotten but that a quicker 45-minute skin R

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

spa focus

14

treatment should also be offered.

Quick and precise nail services are also on the rise, meaning that a perfect nail service, such as a gel polish, needs to be performed in 20 minutes and not the typical 60 minutes.

Corporate wellness Stress causes absenteeism and reduced productivity in the workplace.

The best solution is simply to include all workers in a wellness programme that includes diet, exercise and spa treatments. So try make inroads in this growing sector. Unless you personally make the effort and create the need for the corporate, they will not come rushing through your doors wanting services to help their team. You need to be proactive in this area and you will reap the rewards

Group spa-ing Families visiting spas are on the rise, so offer family packages. Other targets for group packages are girlfriends going for treatments together, book clubs, supper clubs, sports teams etc. This does not necessarily mean that they have to have the actual treatments together, but they want to spend time together between treatments and de-stress together.

Healthy mind, healthy body A healthy mind goes hand in hand with a healthy body. Give your clients a more comprehensive approach to healthy skin and body than just conventional treatments. Yes, massage and touch play a huge role but so does exercise, meditation, restful sleep, hobbies and of course friendships

Cultural experiences It is more and more evident around the globe that when a person visits a country they seek a full cultural experience – from cuisine and architecture to mixing with the local people and a spa experience that has some of cultural flavour. This is what I call a signature treatment. Take some time to design a signature treatment for your spa and include as much of what the local environment has to offer as possible.

Get moving 2013 saw a huge movement towards fitness and exercise. Some interesting new exercise trends have made inroads to the industry over the last few months, such as Aqua Zumba, Soul Cycle, Hip Hop Funk and other different types of dancing. These include Hot Figure 4 Yoga, Boot Camp, Surfset Classic (on a surfboard), Buti and others. Ensure that part of your customer experience at your spa and salon includes recommendations on exercise and ensure your clients are on the move.

Massage massage massage Massage has always been the most popular spa and salon treatment but going forward spa owners will have to find innovative massage techniques, or tools, to enhance the experience or they will lose guests to other spas.

The easiest and most effective way to keep your client loyal forever is

to ensure that all of their treatments have some form of massage included.

Touch is your tool, so use it wisely.

Value for money This does not mean that the consumer wants to pay less or requires bigger discounts and better deals. Absolutely not. It is an opportunity for every single salon and spa to analyse their business and evaluate whether their offering is value for money. Will the consumer be happy to pay your rate for the service and do they think they are getting more than their money’s worth? This does not mean that the consumer will be happy to pay for an average pedicure at a reduced rate.

The consumer is happy to pay more but you need to ensure they receive the perceived value.

Service excellence Good service is not good enough anymore. If your level of service is not excellent, your customer will not stay. Your entire business needs to run on a strict set of standard operating procedures (SOPs) so that there are no loopholes in the service delivery.

You should implement mystery guest evaluations with written feedback at least twice a month. Plus, keep your therapists trained in all aspects of the industry. Keep their fire burning and help them always to strive to be the best! PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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spa focus

16

Paternoster

guest house opens spa Abalone House, the first 5-star guest house in Paternoster, the picturesque fishing village on the west coast of South Africa, recently expanded its offering by opening a Healing Earth Spa. Joanna Sterkowicz reports.

O

wned by Johan Jansen van Vuuren and Stef Venter, Abalone House first opened its doors in February 2010.

“Up until now the Abalone House experience offered to guests was that of sublime luxury. We wanted to enhance this to become a holistic experience and in return to offer guests even more value. Deciding on the addition of the spa was the logical next step,” says Jansen van Vuuren.

He and Venter chose the Healing Earth spa brand because of owner Elizabeth Brandt’s reputation.

“Elizabeth’s quality service, locally manufactured products and African-inspired therapies carry her wellknown stamp of superiority,” continues Jansen van Vuuren. “Her reputation speaks for itself, so choosing the Healing Earth brand was an easy decision. The brand is well known and is expanding across the continent, and to offer the Healing Earth range of products and treatments to Abalone House guests fitted in perfectly with our vision and mission,” he explains.

Apart from Abalone House, Jansen van Vuuren and Venter also own several self-catering cottages in Paternoster. One of these is The Pasella Cottage, adjacent to Abalone House. They decided that not only did this unit offer the perfect location for the Healing Earth Spa, but it also offered the typical west coast feeling that goes hand in hand with what the spa was about to offer.

Thus The Pasella Cottage was converted to the Healing Earth Spa and a new entrance from Abalone House was created to link the buildings.

Design The spa offers African-inspired therapies and products in four calm treatment rooms – one customised for couples as well as a salt therapy room.

According to Brandt, the design of the spa is contemporary with sophisticated touches.

“We at Healing Earth believe in green, sustainable and environmentally friendly materials to match our holistic approach of using only the best that is offered locally and which is sourced with great attention to detail. To this end we created a space for reflection and a sanctuary for all senses.

“The smell of pure aromas, the energy, the care and the space are designed to embrace clients as they embark

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

17

Pigment Restoration Acne Clearance Superficial Vascular Lesions Vascular & Pigmented Lesions

on a sensory journey of blissful relaxation,” she comments.

Signature treatments

We created a space for reflection and a sanctuary for all senses.

Brandt reveals that the spa’s signature treatments include The Elizabeth Brandt Essential ‘Rolls Royce’ Rose Quartz Pampering and Jade Crystal facials, along with massages using pure oils and herbs by Healing Earth.

“The healing properties of Rose Quartz help to smooth your complexion and stimulate circulation, soothing the skin and senses. Rose Quartz serves as an adjunct for helping aid the serum’s absorption into your skin. Specially created serums that stimulate lymph gland drainage are applied in this facial,” says Brandt.

As its name implies, the soothing use of cool Jade stone rollers is used in the Jade Crystal facial, to stimulate blood flow and lymphatic drainage. Serum ampoules including rose geranium, Ylang-Ylang and neroli are specially targeted according to skin type so as to invigorate skin tissue, providing a supple skin and minimising wrinkles.

“The Beauty & The Moon pamper package was created to serve as a catalyst for you to embrace a world of total relaxation where your mind is at one with the world and your body reverts to its original balanced state. We have created four unique rituals in line with the moon’s cycles which affect the tides.

“For each time of the year special Healing Earth holistic treatments are developed to support the eco systems with your body energy to achieve maximum results,” concludes Brandt.

Healing Earth products include the Earth Soul range, which uses indigenous ingredients such as marula and Kalahari melon, and the Pinotage Grape range – a vinotherapy range with powerful anti-oxidant qualities that is also thoroughly South African. PB

Contact: 022 752 2044

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

• Laser/RF Sales • Training • Education • Repairs • Maintenance • Installations V The Ultra Platform for Facial Contouring

Skin Rejuvenation Various Skin Conditions Super Hair Removal Skin Tightening

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professional beauty cape town

18

Professional Beauty

Cape Town

Some 5,000 visitors are expected to attend the 7th Professional Beauty Cape Town expo, at the Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC) from 9 to 10 February 2014. Running in conjunction with the show are the Medical Aesthetics (MA) Convention and the South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals (SAAHSP) Seminar.

L

eading brands in skincare, cosmeceuticals, nails, tanning, makeup, eyelash enhancement, hair, body sculpting, aromatherapy and management software will be showcased at Professional Beauty Cape Town, as well as all the latest innovations and equipment in the salon, spa and medical aesthetics sectors.

At the time of going to press the following exhibitors had confirmed: Adele Sutton; Aromatic Apothecary; Beauty Hygiene; Beauty Tech; BTL Medical SA; Calgel; Cspa Aroma Wellness; Cosmetics and Beyond; Cosmetici Magistrali; Decade Aesthetic Solutions; ESP Salon & Spa Software; GHD Style Bar; Genop Healthcare; Hitech Lasers; Kryolan SA; Lamprobe SA; Lays Beauty; La Van; Lilian Terry Spa & Wellness Products; Luscious Lashes Eyelash Extensions; Medi-Heel; Medilase; nailsforu; Nature’s Essence; Pure Smile; Radiant Healthcare; RegimA Skin Treatments; Revitalash; SalonCare; Skin Scripts; SMsquared; Sparkle Cosmetics; Studex; Thalgo South Africa; The Original Spraytan; and Zehra Age Beautifully.

Says Philip Woods, of T.E. Trade Events, the organiser of Professional Beauty Cape Town. “Registrations have grown daily which proves that there is a huge interest in the show. Visitors are looking forward to seeing new innovations, taking the opportunity to learn and to network. An event not to be missed for anyone in the industry, we expect the 2014 event to surpass all others.”

Medical Aesthetics Convention The theme for the 4th Cape Town MA Convention is ‘Aesthetic beauty across all cultures’.

If you are in any way interested in offering MA treatments then you should seriously consider this convention. If you already offer these advanced treatments, this is event is not to be missed. New ways to improve profit and innovate in your business.

Topics include: A tribute to our vibrant cultures (anthropological aesthetic differences between South African cultures); The challenges surrounding ethnic

beauty; Is needling safe on ethnic skin?; 50 shades of light: skin lightening – a cultural phenomenon; chemical peeling; rhinoplasty, maximising use of imaging devices; and a dermatological perspective on psoriasis, skin, hair and nails.

Speakers include Sonette Donker; Dr Minoka Nadesan; Dr Lionel Jedeikin; Buddy Reardon; Dr Cobus van Niekerk; Dr Mohamed Docrat; Dr Des Fernandes; Jacqui Faucitt; Dr Gerhard van Niekerk; and Dr Simone Silver.

SAAHSP Seminar Included in this seminar is the SAAHSP-CIDESCO Schools Meeting where SAAHSP board members will present information on examinations and short course accreditation to educators, schools owners and SAAHSP examiners.

Other topics at the seminar include: Indications, effectiveness and methodology of cupping therapy for facial lifting; Embracing innovation for a sustainable future; The recognition and treatment of minor skin irregularities/ blemishes/lesions; How to include light therapy in your treatments; Body masks, wraps and scrubs; and Permanent makeup – the fundamentals of natural, attractive and semipermanent artistry. PB

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

20

Join our breakfast meeting 10th of February at Professional Beauty Cape Town

Enjoy a networking breakfast and hear inspiring talks from two fantastic speakers with ideas to grow your business.

If you cannot make the breakfast please visit us at the expo on stand no G19 and find out more about how the Professional Beauty network can assist you to increase the performance and success of your beauty business.

All this plus FREE early entry to Professional Beauty Cape Town for only R85 Our vision for a beauty filled future in SA Join us today sonette@probeautynetwork.co.za or call 076 585 4191

Pro Beauty Network in CT The first Professional Beauty Network meeting in Cape Town will be held on 10 February alongside the Professional Beauty show at the CTICC in the Convention Lounge.

F

ocused on uplifting the spa and beauty industry, the Professional Beauty Network is a platform that provides beauty professionals, salon/spa owners, managers, therapists and suppliers with the opportunity to network, meet industry experts and keep updated with the latest information in the industry.

The network is affiliated to Professional Beauty SA. “In today’s constantly growing and competitive market it is imperative to stay up to date with ever changing trends, technology, education and product innovation,” says Professional Beauty Network co-founder, Sonette van Rensburg.

“Since we launched the Professional Beauty Network KZN in 2012 it has grown from strength to strength, proving that this was something the industry really needed,” she continues. “We didn’t realise the actual impact it would have. The network has been responsible for connecting like-minded professionals, providing them with pertinent information to use in their businesses, inspiring and motivating people, creating brand awareness, creating business relationships, partnerships and friendships, and so much more.”

Following a recent Professional Beauty Network KZN event, Kelly Lazarus, Vitaderm sales executive, commented: “Thank you for such a great morning yesterday. I really enjoyed myself and found the talks very motivating.”

Professional Beauty Network JHB will launch in March. Quarterly meetings will be held in each of the three regions and include presentations from speakers who are experts in their field.

Professional Beauty Network’s slogan is: “Our vision for a beauty filled future in SA!” PB

“Our vision for a beauty filled future in SA!”

Contact 076 585 4191

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

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healthy ageing@dr gys

22 Dr Gys Du Plessis answers your health, wellness and anti-ageing questions.

More than just

a headache I would desperately like to know if you have any general health advice on how to manage migraines? I suffer really badly from them, being severely affected for up to six days a month. I do use different painkillers but they only help moderately.

I

really feel for you, because clearly those people from whom you sought help are not taking your migraines seriously. According to a report by femalefirst.co.uk, a new survey by a specialist migraine treatment has found that migraine sufferers say the most annoying thing about a migraine is the people who think it’s just a headache.

I have so often seen it in practice where despondent patients are hesitant to complain for fear of once again not being taken seriously.

A migraine is not just another headache!

Attacks are often accompanied by one or more of the following symptoms: visual disturbances, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, extreme sensitivity to sound, light, touch and smell, and tingling or numbness in the extremities or face.

The report found that 46% of sufferers cannot function normally during an attack, and 45% take at least one day to fully recover from a migraine.

Yet only a quarter of sufferers admit to proactively trying to prevent attacks by avoiding triggers and keeping treatment handy. More than 60% only seek treatment once they feel the onset of an attack.

It is a well-known fact that migraines and menstrual pain are by far the biggest medical reasons in the world that females stay off work

When it comes to migraines, prevention is better than cure.

Tips Here are five tips from this survey to curb migraines: • Daily exercise.

• Regular sleeping habits. Make sure you go to bed at the same time every night and get up at the same time in the morning.

• A healthy diet consumed according to a regular schedule. Always keep a bottle of water and a snack handy to avoid dehydration.

• Reduce stress. Stress-management techniques, especially a regular spiritual practice, can help to reduce the likelihood of triggering a migraine.

• Avoid too much caffeine as it constricts the blood vessels in the brain and can trigger a migraine.

Underlying conditions It is very important to make sure the rest of your body is in good shape and free of other underlying conditions.

An article in Neurology Journal recently stated that migraines

increase in number and severity if other conditions co-exist. Depression, for example, is three times more prevalent in migraine sufferers.

I would advise you to go for a general check-up with hormonal blood tests to exclude other underlying conditions.

Taking the basic minimum supplements necessary to stay healthy today is also very important.

I mentioned in a previous edition of Professional Beauty that a good multivitamin/mineral, Omega 3 and Vitamin D3 should at least make part of your daily nutrition. Supplements that specifically have a good track record include a good intake of magnesium and Co Enzyme Q10.

There are also medications that work very well preventatively and can bring the incidence down by 80%.

A migraine is a serious brain vascular irritation that needs aggressive prevention. PB If you would like to ask Dr Gys du Plessis a question please email the editor at joanna@probeauty.co.za. Selected questions and answers will be published in the following issue of the magazine.

Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in holistic, integrative and aesthetic medicine. He has founded and led two holistic centres in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www. facebook.com/drgys1

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

african & asian skin

25

Colour spectrum African & Asian skin

All human skin has the same basic anatomical structure – epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous layer – but each racial skin type displays its own particular characteristics. Joanna Sterkowicz investigates Asian and African skin, their dermatological concerns and suitable treatments.

A

ccording to the Fitzpatrick Scale numerical classification for skin colour, Asian skin ranges from III to V, with African skin falling into either V or VI. Commenting on the key features of Asian skin, Dr Marianne Duvenage, a dermatologist at Novi Skin Clinic in Pretoria, notes that it has more melanin (pigment granules) than Caucasian skin, but not more melanocytes (cells that make melanin).

“Wrinkling is not a feature of aging in Asian skin due to the sun-protective effects of melanin. However, the lighter-complexioned individuals do show

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evidence of sun damage. Asian skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation, which is the darkening of an area of skin due to the increased melanin content. It is also very prone to keloid scarring after surgery of the skin,” explains Duvenage.

Jacqui Faucitt, CEO of RégimA Skin Treatments, maintains that Asian skin generally has larger pores than Caucasian skin and is more prone to irritation, particularly from high fragrances and alcohol in cosmetics.

“Asian skin has a greater need for daily exfoliation to minimise the appearance of pores and even out skin tone and texture,” she continues. “Because of R

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

african & asian skin

26 the propensity for pigmentation, exfoliation must be very gentle, preferably with nightly alpha hydroxy acids and gentle natural peels.

Asian skin is more prone to acne, which is usually accompanied by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

“Other pigmentation problems include dark, patchy discoloration, sun spots or liver spots (solar lentigines), and brown wartygrowths (seborrheic keratoses), any of which may appear on the face or body. Keratosis pilaris (ingrown hairs) tend to be a problem on the upper arms and thighs and can also lead to pigmentation.”

She adds that generally hyperpigmentation has an earlier onset than wrinkles and laxity on Asian skin.

“Asians are therefore more concerned about skin lightening than they are about anti-ageing. More women consider their skin acne-prone and sensitive in the summer, particularly in humid climates,” comments Faucitt.

She adds that a daytime moisturiser for Asian skin is usually made with a combination skin type in mind, something that may minimise the pores, or at least not block them. The day moisturiser must contain UVA & UVB sun protection of between SPF 15 and 30, as higher factor sunscreens may cause blocking or darkening of the skin.

African skin Due to the sun-protective effect of melanin, African skin is far less susceptible to sun damage than Caucasian skin, says Duvenage.

She continues: “Melanin is the pigment molecule that imparts the dark colour to African skin. The amount of

Methodology According to Dr Robert Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals, racial differences in skin have been minimally investigated by objective methods and the data is often contradictory.

“Methods used included trans-epidermal water loss, water content, corneocyte variability, blood vessel reactivity, elastic recovery, pH gradient, lipid content, surface microflora, and microscopic evaluation of mast cell granules.

“Some of the most prominent differences found were that Asian and African skin has greater trans-epidermal water loss than Caucasian skin. Inflammatory acne is more common in black and Asian skin, and, therefore, will have severe repercussions on the formation of the hyperpigmentation marks that are left after acne healing.

Those marks will remain for long periods of time and will often be of greater concern to the affected person than acne itself.”

Priori CoffeeBerry Perfecting Minerals provide protection against harmful UVA/UVB rays and are ideal for hyperpigmentation.

pigment cells (melanocytes) is the same in African skin as in Caucasian skin. However, three to four times less UVA reaches the dermis in African skin than in Caucasian skin. For this reason, elastosis is very rarely seen in black skin, even in sun-exposed skin. The elastic fibres in African skin look the same as those found in sun-protected skin.

“Although the fat content in African skin is higher than in Caucasian skin, the former is more prone to dryness. The outer horny layer of the skin in African individuals is more compact. This protects the skin and makes it less susceptible to irritants. Dyspigmentation (pigment disorder) and lichenification (a thickening of the dermis) is more common in black skin. African skin displays far less fine lines, deep lines, laxity and overall sun damage than Caucasian skin.”

Duvenage concludes by pointing out that aging in African skin presents more as seborrheic keratoses (old age warts), sun freckles, mottled hyperpigmentation, and melasma/chloasma on the face, a general increase in darkness of the skin of the face and uneven skin tone.

Faucitt adds that African skin is thicker than Caucasian skin due to the stratum corneum having more layers, and a more compact dermis with larger, more numerous, fibroblasts. This increased cohesiveness helps to minimise facial wrinkles and reduces potential for irritation.

“African skin has a greater pore size with increased sebum secretion, although lower ceramides than Caucasian skins. The increased lipids ensure high moisture levels, however they can result in an oily problematic skin, due to higher natural microbial skin flora being present.

“Glutathione is a natural antioxidant, which is also known to inhibit epidermal melanogenesis. African skins contain less glutathione than Caucasian skins, leading to darker skin.

“Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs when the skin reacts to an injury (which may include skin trauma such as: laser, deep peels, dermabrasion, over-

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

african & asian skin

27

Expert views Jacqui Faucitt, CEO of RégimA Skin Treatments

“Asian skin has a greater need for daily exfoliation to minimise the appearance of pores and even out skin tone and texture. Because of the propensity for pigmentation, exfoliation must be very gentle, preferably with nightly alpha hydroxy acids and gentle natural peels.

Asian skin is more prone to acne, which is usually accompanied by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Dr Marianne Duvenage, dermatologist at Novi Skin Clinic

“Aging in African skin presents more as seborrheic keratoses (old age warts), sun freckles, mottled hyperpigmentation, and melasma/chloasma on the face, a general increase in darkness of the skin of the face and uneven skin tone.”

Dr Robert Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals

“Inflammatory acne is more common in African and Asian skin, and, therefore, will have severe repercussions on the formation of the hyperpigmentation marks that are left after acne healing. Increased granules in mast cells (cells in skin that act as inflammation regulators for defence purposes) in African skins will make them more reactive to inflammation.” exposure to sunlight, etc) by becoming inflamed. This triggers the production of more melanin in the skin, although it is produced unevenly in spots or patches.

If over-production of melanin occurs in the upper layers of skin, the spots are a darker shade of brown, if in the lower layers of skin, an ashy discoloration appears. Hyperpigmentation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is more obvious in darker skins, so even a few pimples can leave residual black marks,” she says.

Spontaneous desquamation Gobac adds that African skin has a lower pH balance than white skin, which, in turn, should have a better defence mechanism against opportunistic infections from the skin surface.

“Unfortunately, the rate of spontaneous desquamation (ie. the natural process in which skin cells are sloughed away and replaced) is higher in R

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

www.dermafix.co.za | Customer Care Line: 0861 28 23 23

Patient treated with Melano MiniPeel

Melano MiniPeel

african & asian skin

30 African skin than white or Asian skin, and this will cause easier blockage of sebaceous gland ducts and the formation of acne.

“Inflammatory acne is more common in African and Asian skin, and, therefore, will have severe repercussions on the formation of the hyperpigmentation marks that are left after acne healing. Increased granules in mast cells (cells in skin that act as inflammation regulators for defence purposes) in African skins will make them more reactive to inflammation,” explains Gobac.

Faucitt maintains that whether there is a major or minor skin trauma, reducing inflammation as quickly as possible can minimise or eliminate potential scarring.

Treatments Duvenage advocates the following treatments for both African and Asian skin: topical retinoic acid creams and topical and oral anti-oxidants.

Laser treatments that can be done, but only with great care, include the Fraxel laser, the Pulsed Dye laser, QS Alexandritt and the QS Nd:Yag. Ablative lasers such as CO2 and Erbium lasers are not recommended as they can easily induce postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Microdermabrasion and superficial chemical peels are safe, while medium and deep peels require

Fitzpatrick scale

Patient treated with Melano MiniPeel

Pre-procedure Pre-Procedure great care in application. Botox, hyaluronic acid fillers and body Pre-Procedure contouring treatments such as Zeltiq Coolsculpting are suitable.

DermaFix treatments may safely be conducted on African and Asian skin types provided that the correct preparation protocols are adhered to. The DermaFix MelanoDerm treatment should be introduced to the client one month prior to any advanced skin resurfacing or microneedling procedure being performed. MelanoDerm works to suppress the over-stimulation of the melanocyte, thereby lowering the risk of pigmentation arising as a result of stimulation. Furthermore, the correct home care protocols should be adhered to post-treatment. These may include DermaFix DermaBright as a controllable form of AHA exfoliation to work on the texture and tone of skin, and DermaFix Vitamin

1 Month Post Procedure One month post-procedure

1 Month Post Procedure

Patient treated with Scinderm’s Melano MiniPeel C Serum to reduce inflammation to lower the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation flare ups.

DermaFix DermaShield SPF 45 High Protection Zinc Oxide is a must in all skin-care regimes to protect against further UV stimulation and environmental assault.

Another growing concern amongst this skin type group is bodybrightening and lightening. DermaFix BodyBright provides fast-acting skin brighteners to combat uneven skin tone on all areas of the body. The use of DermaFix DermaShield SPF 45 High Protection Zinc Oxide is recommended on all areas exposed to sunlight and UV radiation.

Peel & Heal From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The Fitzpatrick Scale is a numerical classification schema for the colour of skin.

It was developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, a Harvard dermatologist, as a way to classify the response of different types of skin to UV light.

Type I (scores 0–6) Pale white; blond or red hair; blue eyes; freckles R Always burns, never tans

Type IV (scores 21–27) Moderate brown; typical Mediterranean skin tone R Rarely burns, always tans well

Type II (scores 7–13) White; fair; blond or red hair; blue, green or hazel eyes R Usually burns, tans minimally

Type V (scores 28–34) Dark brown; Middle Eastern skin types R Very rarely burns, tans very easily

Type III (scores 14–20) Cream white; fair with any hair or eye colour; quite common R Sometimes mild burn, tans uniformly

Type VI (scores 35+) Deeply pigmented dark brown to black R Never burns, tans very easily

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

According to Faucitt, salon therapists should always treat African and Asian skin conditions conservatively to achieve a safe, perfect, lasting result.

“Experience has shown that postinflammatory hyperpigmentation can be treated extremely successfully with a series of peel & heal treatments and home care with active Vitamin C and natural AHAs nightly and daily sun protection.”

She notes that RégimA Peel & Heal Treatments in-salon peels of 20% and 40% have proven to be very successful and a safe alternative. “The therapist must ensure that the client only uses RégimA home care if undergoing these peels, as ingredients in other products may be contra-indicated. R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

        

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32

“Conservative treatment parameters include slower energy settings, long wavelength devices, epidermal cooling devices, and non-ablative techniques. If combining with peel & heal treatments one must leave two weeks between peel and IPL. Correct post-treatment care is critical to ensure prevention of pigmentation or scarring. Post-laser post-peel gel should always be applied following any procedure that can potentially cause peeling of the skin.”

‘Melanoceutical’ Scinderm is the first ‘Melanoceutical’ (a word coined and trademarked by Scinderm) to offer an extensive range focused on offering home treatments and peels for hyperpigmentation problems, with clientele mostly Fitzpatrick types IV, V and VI. The Scinderm Basic Range is for production while reducing blemishes and calming superficial hyperpigmentation, inflammation. Its key ingredient is Dragon’s Blood, while the Scinderm Medical Range a sap found in the Amazonian Croton Lechleri tree. targets the more serious types of Spot TX also contains the antiseptic properties of hyperpigmentation, such as melasma bearberry extract – a powerful antioxidant known or chloasma. The most popular for its lightening effect on the skin.

Scinderm products for melasma and chloasma include Kojiderm Sun protection Cream with arbutase (skin-lightening Exposure to the sun can aggravate additive) and Kojiderm CAB Serum. hyperpigmentation, and if left untreated these Scinderm recommends its new dark spots may grow and multiply. Lilian Terry Melano MiniPeel.

International’s Aftersun is specially formulated Dr Gobac Lighten is a newto both treat and prevent hyperpigmentation. generation skin-lightening product Studies done in Kiev, Ukraine, showed that developed to target unwanted Aftersun stimulates a remarkable improvement in Jacqui Faucitt pigmentation. It contains a botanical the metabolic, hormonal and defensive activities extract high in arbutin, a known skinof the skin when applied on a daily basis. This lightening agent, as well as botanical aromatherapy oil contains carrier and essential oils such as extracts of lemon peel and tilia cordata (smallGerman chamomile, rosewood, jojoba and marula combined with leaved lime), which reduce pigmentation and have specific homeopathic remedies. a strong anti-inflammatory effect on the skin.

The SkinBrite Collection from Dermaquest is designed to Also from Dr Gobac is Spot TX, an antibacterial reduce the appearance of sun damage, hyperpigmentation, clearing treatment that helps regulate sebum

Salon therapists should always treat African and Asian skin conditions conservatively to achieve a safe, perfect, lasting result.

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

african & asian skin

33

melasma, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

It incorporates the latest skin-brightening ingredients including chromabright, BV-OSC and emblica. This advanced chemical peel contains a unique combination of tyrosinase inhibitors and exfoliating AHAs to effectively address hyperpigmentation and dark spots, and is safe to use on darker Fitzpatrick skin types.

SkinMedica’s Skin Brightening System is ideal for the treatment of hyperpigmentation skin conditions.

The main product – Lytera – contains no HQ, arbutin or kojic acid and is safe for long-term use. It contains a cocktail of ingredients that target the four stages of the melanogenesis process.

Recommended by the Skin Cancer Foundation, Priori CoffeeBerry Perfecting Minerals, distributed by A&I Importers, include the highest all-natural free-radical protection against harmful UVA/UVB rays and are ideal for hyperpigmentation. CoffeeBerry Perfecting Minerals are treatment-based and reduce redness after chemical peels or laser resurfacing.

To reveal the radiance of the complexion and diminish dark spots, Phytomer has developed White Lumination Brightening Radiance Treatment. Phytomer’s White Lumination Facial, through its main active ingredients of Sea Lily, Dictyopteris and Vitamin C, reduces skin pigmentation for a more translucent and radiant skin.

A 92% reduction in pigmentation is discernible if Even Tones is used twice daily for eight weeks. Its new molecular technology combines idebenone with a dual fatty acid chain to increase skin permeability and create a time-released reservoir of idebenone.

Cosmelan/Dermamelan was developed by Mesoestetic Laboratories for the treatment of hormonal melasma in Fitzpatrick skin types I - VI. It has proved to be effective for other types of hyperchromias, such as post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation and photodamage.

Dermamelan is the stronger version of Cosmelan and often more effective for darker skins and dermal melasmas. The product utilises 18 active ingredients to achieve its effect. It has a mild to moderate peeling effect but maintenance relies on the synergic action of the melanogenesis supressors.

Containing no hydroquinone or TCA, it is referred to as a hyperpigmentation management programme, as treatment should be long-term and consistent to achieve the desired outcome. PB

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

business tips

34

The Business of

Beauty Blog Every New Year it’s customary for people to make resolutions, so why not capitalise on your clients’ resolutions and create New Year Packages designed to fulfill these needs, writes Debbie Merdjan.

T

he Spa at the Four Seasons Hotel did exactly this and designed an Instagram and Twitter campaign whereby clients could enter a competition by sharing a photo and a description of their New Year resolutions. Twelve lucky winners received a 50-minute spa treatment of their choice to help them achieve their wellness goals.

This was a great initiative to create a marketing hype and reward their clients for healthy habits.

Do you analyse your customers needs and likes and use this knowledge to grow your business?

Knowing your market, your industry, your clients and your business is so important and understanding trends will give you a competitive advantage. Speed of implementation of new trends is essential to be successful in business. Remember that strategic thinking is the gateway to innovation.

It’s important to be extraordinary in business and make your own opportunities. When you create energy, you create business. You don’t get business if you don’t chase it.

2014 Strategy So here’s my 2014 Strategy. It starts with identifying the parts of my business that need to be improved, maximised and initiated. I always use S.W.O.T. analysis to look at my company’s Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats.

I plan to create a new system and process for each new component and compile a reporting structure to measure the progress and implementation of my new projects.

I have a continued focus on spa and salon software, with international trends showing that the value of online bookings for salons and spas rose by more than 50% in 2013.

Spafinder Wellness 365 provides an in-depth look at forecasting the most significant 2014 global trends that will impact on the hospitality, spa and wellness industries.

Look out for their 2014 top trends, from healthy hotels and wellness retreats to how mobile phones, computers and

tablets are turning our wired lives into a wellness tool.

Hot springs, suspending gravity and ferocious fitness are on the rise. Nature rules with organics at the forefront as a new, clean-beauty era takes shape. Aromatherapy plays a greater role in the treatment of physical and mental issues, with emphasis on aromatherapy products. Spas are focusing on providing treatments during life transitions such as death, divorce, stress and aging. Lastly, look out for surprising wellness destinations where savvy spagoers and wellness seekers are searching for more exotic and indigenous wellness destinations.

Education’s role We pay tribute to our beloved Nelson Mandela and cherish his words: “Education is the most powerful weapon that you can use to change the world.”

Invest in yourself and your business with education and make sure you don’t miss out on trade shows, business events, and new treatment and product training.

Wishing you a fantastic and successful 2014! PB Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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SR / SRA for Vascular & Pigmented Lesion Treatment

•

Sublime for Facial Contouring and Wrinkle Treatment

•

Motif IR for Focused Wrinkle Treatment

•

AC for Acne Treatment

•

LV / LVA for Vascular Lesion Treatment

UlTimaTe SolUTion for non-invaSive Body ScUlpTing

thetic medical device

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eTwo combines the unique Sublime and Sublative applications for comprehensive facial rejuvenation:

Sublime™ uses the elōs combination of safe and effective levels of infrared light and bi-polar radio frequency Less optical energy, when synergistically combined with bienergies to remodel the deep dermal layer of the skin polar RF, improves safety for all skin types by target stimulating new collagen growth for immediate and Dual heating via optical and RF energies raises temperature while maintaining epidermal protection long term improvement of wrinkles and facial contour.

The elo¯s® Technology Advantage

Treatment Area 12 x 8mm 12 x 25mm 12 x 25mm 12 x 25mm

•

The ePlus features proprietary elo¯s combined-energy technology of optical energies (laser or light) and bi-polar radio frequency (RF).

Pulse Rep Rate

• •

1Hz 0.7Hz 0.7Hz in HR Mode 3Hz in Motif Mode 0.7Hz

andelalaser.com | infois@syneron.com

of Syneron Medical Ltd. and may be registered in certain jurisdictions. elōs (electro-optical synergy) is a proprietary

Introducing eTwo!

Instant • SelectIve • Permanent • Sublative™ fractionated bi-polar radio frequency ePlus technology places the heat energy effectively into Fat Cell Multi-Application DestruCtion the upper dermis where it can produce a significant increase in both collagen and elastin with minimal epidermal disruption leading to a smoother, rejuvenated Platform appearance of the skin.

Engineered for Safety - Easy to Use & Maintain

• Proprietary Active Dermal Monitoring™ feature monitors skin impedance changes during each pulse for added safety

• Integrated sapphire contact cooling ensures epidermal protection and increased patient comfort

• Intelligent Feedback System (IFS) ensures precise delivery of RF energy regardless of variations in skin impedance

•

Sublative Rejuvenation for an Increase in Both Collagen and Elastin

•

Motif LHR and Motif HR for "Pain Free" Hair Removal

•

SR / SRA for Vascular & Pigmented Lesion Treatment

•

Sublime for Facial Contouring and Wrinkle Treatment

•

Motif IR for Focused Wrinkle Treatment

•

AC for Acne Treatment

•

LV / LVA for Vascular Lesion Treatment

medical device

Photos: Ruthie Amir, M.D.

Photos: Sasha Jazayeri, M.D.

eTwo combines the unique Sublime and Sublative applications for comprehensive facial rejuvenation: •

Sublime™ uses the elōs combination of safe and effective Before Post 2 treatments levels of infrared light and bi-polar radio frequency energies to remodel the deep dermal layer of the skin Sublime Sublative by stimulating new collagen growth for immediate and long term improvement of wrinkles and facial contour.

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mbine a level of r to that of any

new company the best global on network.

We know how ariety of needs market trends w breakthrough ned to maintain actice. the world.

elalaser.com | infois@syneron.com

6 weeks post 3 treatments

For more information: infois@syneron.com | www.syneron.com | www.candelalaser.com

Sublative™ fractionated bi-polar radio frequency technology places the heat energy effectively into the upper dermis where it can produce a significant • Less optical energy, when synergistically combined with biincrease in both collagen and elastin with minimal polar RF, improves safety for all skin types epidermal disruption leading to a smoother, rejuvenated • Dual heating via optical and RF energies raises target © 2011. All rights reserved. eTwo, Sublime and Sublative are trademarks of Syneron Medical, Ltd. Syneron and the Syneron logo, Candela and the Candela logo are registered trademarks. PB75611EN while maintaining epidermal protection appearance of the skin. oftemperature ulseD ocuseD lTrasouND The elo¯s® Technology Advantage

•

The ePlus features proprietary elo¯s combined-energy technology of optical energies (laser or light) and bi-polar radio frequency (RF).

DeliveriNg The syNergy Engineered p for Safetyf- Easy to Use & Maintain u aND vacuum-assisTeD raDio frequeNcy • Proprietary Active Dermal Monitoring™ feature monitors skin impedance changes during each pulse for added safety

Photos: Ruthie Amir, M.D.

Photos: Sasha Jazayeri, M.D.

• Integrated sapphire contact cooling ensures epidermal protection and increased patient comfort • Intelligent Feedback System (IFS) ensures precise delivery of RF energy regardless of variations in skin impedance

Before

Sublime

Post 2 treatments

Before

6 weeks post 3 treatments

Sublative

For more information: infois@syneron.com | www.syneron.com | www.candelalaser.com

n Medical Ltd. and may be registered in certain jurisdictions. elōs (electro-optical synergy) is a proprietary © 2011. All rights reserved. eTwo, Sublime and Sublative are trademarks of Syneron Medical, Ltd. Syneron and the Syneron logo, Candela and the Candela logo are registered trademarks. PB75611EN

cellulite reduction

Quadruple VelaSmooth VelaSmooth

37

technologies in one The Medical CelluliteCellulite SolutionSolution The Medical

online at www.probeauty.co.za

6 weeks post 10 treatments.

Photos Courtesy of Gerry Boey, M.D.

S

yneron’s VelaShape II is an intriguing looking machine, probably beVELA_007 cause it combines four different technologies – infrared (IR), radio frequency (bipolar RF), vacuum (suction) and rollers (mechanical massage).

Melissa Eksteen, sales manager at Radiant Healthcare, the distributor of this product, explained that the VelaShape II system features elo-s Technology combined with vacuum and mechanical tissue manipulation to facilitate safe and efficient energy delivery.

“The net result increases the metabolism of stored energy (lipolysis), increases lymphatic drainage and reduces the size of the actual fat chamber,” continued Eksteen. “This system ensures a reduction in the circumference of the treated area and smoother appearance of the skin’s surface, which, in turn, reduces the appearance of cellulite.”

She noted that the VelaShape II, which is both FDA- and CE-approved for cellulite and circumferential reduction, also has a ‘Body After Baby’ programme for moms who have lost the baby weight and want to tighten up.

The Me

Photos Courtesy of Gerry Boey, M.D.

Photos Courtesy of Gerry Boey, M.D.

It is estimated that 80% of women over the age of 20 have cellulite so it’s not surprising that there is such a huge demand for body-shaping treatments.

Joanna Sterkowicz investigates a high-tech option in the form of the VelaShape II Optimal Cellulite Reduction and Body Contouring Device.

Vela

BEFORE

Before

AFTER Before

After

I learnt that the idea of the 43 10degrees centigrade by the end 6 Weeks Post Treatments 6 Weeks Post 10 Treatments VelaShape II treatment is to create of the treatment. This felt pleasantly VELA_007 the maximum desired impact at the warm.

VELA_007 dermal/hypodermal zones, while In technical terms the IR heats addressing both fat tissue volume the tissue up to 3mm depth, while and the surrounding connective the bi-polar radio frequency (RF) tissue architecture. A once-weekly heats tissue up to 15mm depth. treatment for between four and six Simultaneously, the vacuum massage weeks is recommended. mechanisms enable precise targeting “The VelaShape II is our star of energy to the tissue. Mechanical product and is widely used by tissue manipulation is via the pulsed celebrities like Kim Kardashian and vacuum and massage rollers.

Madonna,” said Eksteen.

Post-treatment I could feel the She went on to explain that when improved circulation in my thighs and your fat cells swell up there is no the skin looked decidedly smoother. circulation or lymphatic drainage, Radiant Healthcare’s owner and that’s when cellulite forms. In Jacques Pretorius told me that more essence, VelaShape II shrinks the size than 10 000 VelaShape treatments of fat cells and releases the trapped are done daily globally. intracellular fluid.

Interestingly, “In South Africa, VelaShape is found VelaShape II has a huge male clientele, in numerous body renewal clinics and who want to get rid of ‘love handles’ medical practices, as well as in some and flabby guts. spas and salons. In addition we have Once the treatment started I clients in Angola and Zimbabwe. felt the pressure of the massaging “VelaShape is also an excellent rollers, as well as the strong suction combination system with liposuction, of the vacuum. On areas where the fat freezing as well as ultra sound,” cellulite is particularly hard or bad, concluded Pretorius. PB the pressure is more acute, but only for the first session.

Contact: Radiant Healthcare During the treatment the dermis 011 794 8252/3 has to be heated, reaching just over

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

cellulite reduction

38

My ‘cup’

runneth over Kim Butler administers the FlexyCup.

Cupping is an ancient Chinese therapy where a local suction is created on the skin to mobilise blood flow. Joanna Sterkowicz got up close and personal with Lilian Terry International’s anti-cellulite treatment, which comprises a FlexyCup massage followed by a body wrap.

A

ll primed to be ‘cupped’, I trundled off eagerly to Bodyologie in Bedfordview for the LT FlexyCup treatment.

Therapist Kim Butler explained that the repeated cupping movement over the skin creates a small area of low or negative pressure next to the skin, which gets sucked into the cup and results in the immediate opening of blood vessels in the dermal and subdermal layers of the skin. This assists in draining the lymph nodes and the detoxification process.

If the cups are moved smoothly over the skin using oils, a far greater stimulation of blood circulation is achieved.

Lilian Terry’s massage oils improve elasticity, firmness and hydration of the skin.

I eyed the LT FlexyCup with interest and discovered that Lilian Terry has developed a new shape of cups made of pure, chemically neutral ISO-approved silicone.

To commence the treatment Butler wielded the FlexyCup on the front of my thighs for several minutes before moving to the back of my thighs and the dreaded buttock area. The vacuum effect caused by the cupping did hurt a little over areas with dense cellulite, but the therapist can always ease the

pressure. Any pain also lessens with treatments over time, as your skin and body become more used to cupping, and as elasticity improves.

Butler used the Cellu One oil for the massage. This oil balances the activity of the hormonal glands and accelerates metabolism. Cellu Two and Cellu Three complete the Lilian Terry anti-cellulite range, with the former improving circulation in the capillaries, while the latter accelerates toxin elimination. All three are available in retail sizes, to continue treatment at home.

Following the FlexyCup stage was a circulation-boosting scrub.

Lastly came the body wrap, where a clay mask was applied to my thighs and buttocks, which were wrapped in plastic for 20 minutes. This Lilian Terry Cellulite wrap comprises

white sun-dried clay. which is rich in magnesium, iron, selenium and calcium. These minerals increase the metabolic rate and the ability to shed cellulite deposits. Essential oils in the mask are fennel, geranium, grapefruit and birch.

Butler warned that I might end up with flu-like symptoms or sore joints post-treatment due to the detox. Well, I only ended up with a very slight headache, which was offset by the genuinely ‘alive’ feeling in my butt and thighs – due to the boosted circulation and lymph drainage. I was advised to drink a lot of water, to minimise any detoxing symptoms. PB

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Contact: Lilian Terry International 012 361 2606

Get ready for SUMMER Natural SA quality product

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cellulite reduction

The workout

41

With a name like Bootcamp for Butts, Mama Mio’s cellulite & firming treatment may conjure up alarming visions of a military-style, bum-centric workout, but in reality it is the active ingredients in this luxurious four-stage treatment that do all the exercising and not you, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

W

hen I arrived for the Mama Mio Bootcamp for Butts treatment at the offices of distributor Poise Brands in Bryanston, Johannesburg, training manager Meghan Less described the treatment as ‘a butt lift in an hour’. She explained that it is designed to improve skin texture, stimulate collagen production, increase cell regeneration, tighten slack, spongy skin, reduce cellulite and ease water retention, while simultaneously improving skin elasticity. “Basically, it’s like a facial for the lower body,” added Less.

This is a pretty apt description: the treatment starts with a foot cleanse and reflex massage to stimulate lymphatic drainage. The focus then moves to the hip and thigh trouble spots with two body buffs (exfoliations), one of which is a fruit acid peel, followed by an alginate mask. Finally, the treatment finishes with a deep tissue massage to ‘lift the butt’.

“You can see visible results after one treatment, such as the retexturing of the skin, but full results will only be visible after six treatments,” continued Less.

“The ideal interval between treatments is one and a half weeks.”

During the foot cleanse and massage stage Less used swift but rigorous movements to ramp up the lymphatic drainage. Then she applied Mama Mio’s Omega Moisturising Shower Cream.

This was followed by the first exfoliation, the Omega Face & Body Buff, applied the to the buttocks and back of the thighs. Next came the Pro-Strength 30% Fruit Acid Peel comprising 15% glycolic acid (derived from grape extract); 14.5% lactic acid (derived from honey extract); and 0.5% citric acid (derived from kiwi extract).

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Less then applied the Shrink To Fit Alginate Mask, which rubberises quite quickly and wrapped me in a plastic sheet.

This gel mask is very rich in Laminaria Digitata, Guarana and Horsetail – all proven to reduce sponginess in slack skin, tighten the skin matrix, resulting in firming and toning effects.

Less told me that Laminaria Digitata is a brown algae sometimes referred to as Atlantic kelp and is rich in organic iodine and amino acids. Guarana provides natural caffeine which, combined with the iodine, gives an optimum formula renowned for activating the lipid bio-catalysis. Horsetail encourages the local blood circulation and the elimination of waste.

The mask peeled off very easily, followed by a layer of Skin Tight cream and the Shrink To Fit cream, so that Less could perform lymphatic drainage.

I bounded out of this treatment with my butt and thighs feeling refreshed and invigorated. A close inspection of the treated area later in the evening revealed a decidedly perkier sight than prior to treatment. PB Contact: Poise Brands 011 033 0500

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

nutrition

42

Unlocking food labels It’s long been accepted that if you want to be trim, healthy and have glowing skin you need to follow a sensible diet.

Gaining weight can trigger emotional stress, which in turn results in hormonal changes and leads to increased sebum secretion and breakouts.

W

hen choosing healthier foods for optimum wellbeing, deciphering nutritional tables can be challenging.

There are a few basic tips to keep in mind when reading nutritional tables.

The first and most obvious is to look at the fat content.

Fats can be divided into two broad classes: saturated (‘bad fats’) and unsaturated (‘good fats’). Saturated fats, such as fat on meat and chicken skin, solidify at room temperature and are known to have a negative effect on one’s health as they raise blood cholesterol levels. In contrast, unsaturated fats (as found in fish, olive oil and avocado for example) are required by the body and have recently been shown to have a positive effect on one’s health.

According to the South African Food Labelling Regulations, in order for a food to carry a fat free claim, it must contain no more than 0.5g of fat per 100g or per 100ml, whereas low fat products need to have no more than 3g of fat per 100g or 1.5 per 100ml. This low fat claim permitted on packaging is therefore fairly vague and one should make an effort to check the nutritional table for an accurate fat content reading.

Remember that 5g of fat equates to 1

teaspoon. If food labels say that the item has 30g fat per serving, that’s equivalent to eating about six teaspoons of butter! That’s a lot of fat in one serving, so look for an alternative which is lower in fat.

Unused energy will turn into fat so make sure that you select products with a low kilojoule count if you’re not planning on using up the extra energy. Carbohydrates are a common source of energy. Those with a low glycaemic index (GI) release sugar into your blood stream slowly and are great for sustained energy. Foods with a high GI, on the other hand, release sugar far more quickly, which also turns into fat if not burnt up.

Another tip to help you shop smart is to look out for the GIFSA (Glycaemic Index Foundation of South Africa) logo on selected products. This indicates that the endorsed food has a lower GI, a lower fat content and is suitable for diabetics.

In order for a food to carry a fat free claim, it must contain no more than 0.5g of fat per 100g or per 100ml

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

Sugar We all know that sugar needs to be avoided when possible, especially if you’re trying to stay healthy and avoid breakouts, but cravings for sweetness can be merciless at times. When this happens sweeten your

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nutrition

43 food with a high quality sweetener. An example is Canderel Green, which is made with the leaves of the Stevia plant. Not only is it 300 times sweeter than sugar, it also has virtually no kilojoules. When purchasing a product such as this, it should have high purity levels of Rebaudioside A, or Reb A as it is commonly known, which is the sweetest of all the natural compounds in the Stevia leaf.

Eating foods that contain fibre is another positive health move. Look for foods that contain fibre – foods that provide a source of fibre must contain 3g per 100g whereas foods high in fibre must contain 6g per 100g. PB

Conditions for making food claims In order for a food label to have a claim it must meet the following conditions:

Low Virtually free/ Free from

170kJ per 100g OR 80kJ/100ml

Source of

80kJ/100ml

High in

950kJ/100g OR 250kJ/100ml

Low

3g/100g OR 1.5g/100ml

Free from

0.5g/100g OR 0.5g/100ml

Low

120mg/100g

Very low

40mg per 100g

Free

5mg per 100g

Carbohydrate

High in

13g per 100g OR 6.5g per 100ml

Dietary Fibre

Source of

3g per 100g

High in

6g per 100g

Energy

Total fat

Sodium

(measured according to AOAC method)

17kJ/100ml

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promotion

44

A new generation in advanced permanent makeup training

Permanent Makeup Technology has grown over the past five years and gone from strength to strength.

A

s the leader in permanent makeup training, the company teaches the most advanced techniques and supplies top quality permanent makeup products.

It was being part of the permanent makeup industry for over 10 years that motivated Permanent Makeup Technology owner and founder Sule Loggenberg to make it her life’s mission to provide the best possible training, with the best advanced techniques and equipment.

Permanent Makeup Technology offers three permanent makeup kits pre-selected by Sule Loggenberg to allow prospective students to select a kit that suits their budget. In the top of the range Deluxe Kit, the student receives both types of pigment supplied by Permanent Makeup Technology.

As a member of the Permanent Makeup Society International, Permanent Makeup Technology uses only Organic and In-Organic Pigments.

The Organic pigment creates natural looking permanent makeup on the

Become part of the much sought after and flamboyant culture of the permanent makeup industry.

eyes, brows and lips.

The added advantage of these pigments is that they reduce the risk of an allergic reaction due to the carbon chemistry of the pigment. The In-Organic pigments are derived from ores and are also the ones that are best tolerated. They are stable and non-toxic and best used on the lip area and for creating dramatic eyeliners.

Permanent Makeup Technology also offer courses on Paramedical (Skin Needling, Tattoo Removal, 3D Areola Reconstruction), Eyelash Extension, Semi-Permanent Mascara, Status Eyebrows, and 3D Brow Training.

From 2014 Professional Makeup Courses with Status Cosmetics (a new division of Permanent Makeup Technology) will be offered.

Training takes place at the training centre in the lovely quaint little town of Parys. Accommodation is available right across from the training centre with the lowest rates and highest quality of service. All training days include a lunch at the training centre, For those who would like

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

to do the training but are not able to go to Parys, Permanent Makeup Technology has a travelling trainer who provides training in the student’s own environment.

Permanent Makeup Technology has a new and improved website, www. pmutech.co.za, where prospective students will find information on all training courses, kits, online-shopping for products, up-to-date news and blogs from Sule Loggenberg.

Permanent Makeup Technology is an internationally accredited trainer.

After completing your course not only will you become part of the Permanent Makeup Society International, you will also receive an internationally accredited certificate which will allow you to work anywhere in the world. PB

Contact Permanent Makeup Technology 083 271 8675

online at www.probeauty.co.za

pmu

45

Going the distance Permanent makeup (PMU), a cosmetic technique that employs tattoos as a means of producing designs on the skin of the face, lips and eyelids that resemble makeup, began to emerge as a trend in South Africa in the 1980s, but only really gained traction this century as Joanna Sterkowicz discovers.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Pic: Sulé Loggenberg

O

ften referred to as cosmetic tattooing, PMU is also called permanent cosmetics, dermapigmentation or micropigmentation.

The PMU market in South Africa has grown quite considerably over the last few years, a fact which Sulé Loggenberg of Permanent Makeup Technology attributes to the increase in working moms.

“Applying makeup can be time consuming, especially when trying to get your kids to school and going to work.

PMU is the solution, plus you can jog or swim without having to worry about your eyeliner becoming smudgy,” she says.

PMU is not only used to enhance facial features but to repair the aesthetic appearance of medical conditions resulting from surgery, illness or accidents. For instance, PMU is used to produce artificial eyebrows for people suffering from alopecia or chemotherapy, and for enhancing the breast’s areola after breast surgery.

Loggenberg finds PMU particularly rewarding when she helps a person who has scars or who has lost their eyebrows.

“Our advanced new 3D Brow techniques help to make the ink look like real hair from a distance,” she continues. “I have also helped burn victims and women with cleft lips,” notes Loggenberg.

Suzé Steyl of CherryInk Beauty Group regards areola tattooing as her charity. “I do all clients who have suffered from breast cancer for free as my way of giving back.

“Recently I tattooed a client’s toenails back for her. As

ABOVE: Eyeliner tatoo - before and after she hadn’t worn open shoes for 26 years, the procedure made such a difference in her life,” she comments.

Techniques According to Loggenberg, there are many different techniques and methods of doing PMU. “The oldest method is using the hand manual tool – called embroidery – where after the rotary pen was introduced,” she explains.

Other devices include the NeoTat, a rotary that accommodates the needle groupings of a coil machine, which is the traditional tattoo machine.

Steyl believes there are many pros and cons to consider when choosing a device, such as what area is to be worked on and the desired effect.

“Be sure to do your homework and have proper training before spending money on machines,” she advises.

Loggenberg adds: “Incorrect techniques are sometimes used in both the manual and machine methods in that technicians insert the needle too deep which causes R

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

pmu

46

Pigments Anri Theron of Dermabalance recommends that PMU artists only use pigments that have been on the market for more than 10 years.

She continues: “If you use too many suppliers you may end up not knowing what colours you’ve mixed. And, don’t use a pigment that requires you to ‘drop mix’ the desired colour.

“Warm and cool colours need to be easily distinguished from each other and the pigment range must have a correction kit to tweak the undertone of the skin.

Suppliers must provide material data safety sheets of the ingredients in the pigments. Each pigment bottle must have a batch number.”

Steyl maintains it is up to technicians to educate themselves about organic (iron oxide-free) and inorganic (iron oxide) pigments.

“Your choice of pigments is vital when doing PMU. Using the incorrect pigment could not only seriously damage your career, it could also result in a court case against you,” she warns.

In conclusion, Loggenberg emphasises that clients should select their PMU technician with the same care as choosing their doctor or surgeon.

“It’s absolutely essential that the PMU artist has the correct credentials,” she states. “There are many people out there who claim to be PMU artists but who do not know the correct procedures and who use the wrong pigments.” PB Pic: Suzé Steyl

bruising and swelling. In such cases the human body regards the pigment as foreign matter and rejects it. This is when you get disastrous PMU results.”

Pic: Anri Theron

ABOVE: Tatooed toe nails.

LEFT: PMU full colour lips.

nails

48

Consultation

the most vital step Whether your client is working a full day, maintaining a household or entertaining, looking gorgeous and well-groomed at all times takes hard work and dedication, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

B

efore you can proceed with any nail, hand or foot treatment there is one vital and very important first step which needs to take place: consultation.

I can’t place enough importance on this topic and how vital consultation is in setting up and achieving a successful and effective service. Yet inexplicably many salons still leave out this important step even though they operate in such a competitive environment. Providing your client with the service best suited to their needs could be the basis of a valuable and long-lasting relationship.

A thorough consultation is a very important first step in assisting a nail professional or therapist to assess their client so as to prescribe the most effective treatment and products.

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

49 An essential part of the service is the client intake review form, to be completed by the client. This ensures that you perform the service according to your findings. Consultation is also a sure way of keeping a record of all the services the client comes in for and allows you to follow up, so be sure to update the client record system with every service.

The goal and objective of consultation is to ‘custom’ service every client, through a thorough evaluation and assessment of the client’s nails and skin, in order to recommend the most appropriate service and advice to suit and fully accommodate their needs.

Pre-assessment and evaluation It is advisable to carry out a pre-consultation and evaluation prior to your client’s actual appointment.

This can be done at the time of booking, so have some set questions in place. Pre-assessment and evaluation assists in the following ways: • Provides the opportunity to fully evaluate and meet the needs of the client; • Manages your client’s expectations prior to the appointment; • Manages your appointment times; • Saves time during the appointment; • Educates your client prior to the appointment; and • Allows you to be well prepared for the appointment.

Benefits of consultation • Provides the client with the opportunity to talk to the nail professional and inform them of their needs and requirements; • Prevents any surprises should the client require any additional treatments or services; • Identifies any contra-indications and other important information; • Assists the nail professional to determine exactly how to proceed with an effective service and treatment; • Records the results of the service and the recommendations which have been made; • Ensures that the client will be fully satisfied with the service and treatment; • Puts the client at ease and helps you to build a trusting and long-lasting relationship with them; • Manages the client’s expectations regarding their service and how long it could take to achieve their goals; • Ensures that the client understands their commitment to the service and the importance of following proper after-care advice and recommendations; and • Ensures the client will fully benefit from the treatment, which should result in service longevity. R

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

nails

50

Three steps Consultation is a three-step process – each step is equally important and must be carried out properly and effectively.

1

Documenting and capturing

Conduct a detailed consultation with the client to ensure that you meet their needs and prescribe the correct treatment and product combination, taking into consideration the following: occupation, lifestyle, hobbies, sports and activities, medical history, skin type, existing nail shape and length, any pre-existing nail diseases or disorders, previous treatments and services, and lastly, fashion preference.

Follow-through – I so often see or experience a salon taking down information and that’s where it ends. It is of the utmost importance to follow a consultation through. ✔ Make sure this is done the minute the client walks into the salon, while they are waiting in the reception area and clarify the information with them and document any concerns or comments.

Fill in the service type and product prescription once you have analysed the client’s nails and skin, making sure you have discussed it with them. ✔ Clients have a goal that they would like to achieve and the nail professional should know exactly what it is and assist to the best of their ability. ✔ Keep information and records updated with every service.

2

Assessing and evaluating

Consultation is not just about documenting and recording the client’s personal details.

More importantly you need to look at and assess every detail, to establish exactly what needs to be done.

Analyse the client’s nails carefully – their shape and condition – and check whether there are any disorders or conditions that require specific attention. This will give you the opportunity to determine what needs to be done and to recommend an add-on service if necessary. Look out for any contra-indications which may prevent the service or treatment from being performed.

The following are important aspects that should be looked at to determine how to proceed with a service effectively. ✔ Nail shape and form (ie. flat, ski jump, high C curve)

Gone are the days when salons provided only basic services to keep your hands and feet looking pretty. Clients now go to salons with a specific end result in mind.

– this will reveal if any special provisions need to be made for difficult or problem nails, especially with the application of nail enhancements. ✔ Natural nail condition – is the natural nail in a good condition, peeling flaking or splitting? Does the client need an add-on service to assist with the problem in order to better prepare them for the application of a nail coating or enhancements? ✔ Skin condition – assessing the condition of the client’s skin will determine whether any additional treatments and products are needed.

3

Communicate, educate and recommend

Communicating with and educating your client during consultation is vital and can avoid misunderstandings and disappointment.

Communication should consist of asking questions and listening carefully. Use different types of questions to establish information. R

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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MERIT Includes EXPRESS training, as well as strengthening techniques for different nail types 3 Day course.

EXCELLENCE Covers the complete Bio Sculpture® training course, for therapists that are serious about their career - 5 Day course. Recommended by Bio Sculpture ®

CONVERSION, NAIL ART and MANICURE & PEDICURE training is also available.

All Bio Sculpture® courses include: Continuous refresher training, FREE evaluation and preparation for applicable certification Visit www.biosculpture.com and click on ‘Career & Education’ for more info. Call 0861 246435 to be referred to your nearest training centre.

nails

52 ✔ Open questions allow your client to respond freely and provide information. These start with How, What, Why, When, Where? ✔ Closed questions require a simple yes or no answer and are used to obtain specific information from the client. ✔ Probing questions should be used when the client has not provided the necessary information. ✔ Educate – explain and educate your client as to how to get the best benefit from their service and treatment and how to maintain it between services. ✔ Recommendations – recommend additional nail services depending on the client’s skin and nail condition and requirements. When the client experiences the results, they will gain confidence and trust in you and follow your recommendations. Make recommendations regarding: • Nails and skin – if the client is not sure what nail shape or length they would like, make a suggestion accordingly.

• Service charges – the client should know up front how much they are in for to avoid any surprises at the end of the service, particularly when they have additional services. ✔ Expectations – answer any questions the client may have and overcome any objections or unrealistic expectations. Tell your client what to expect from their treatment.

Featuring a large selection Featuring a large selection of UV Gels with different of UV Gels with different viscosities, application and viscosities, application and performance. Classic UV performance. Classic UV delivers long lasting nails that Featuring large selection delivers longalasting nails that let you express your creativity of UV Gels with different let you expressapplication your creativity viscosities, beautifully. and beautifully. performance.

Classic UV delivers long lasting nails that let you express your creativity beautifully.

NAILS PERFECTED – Only from Akzentz

COPYRIGHT © HAIGH INDUSTRIES INC. C11/12

I’m not sure how many beauty professionals actually realise that consultation is also the first step towards preparing for and setting up a successful sale. If you read my previous article, “Nailing the Retail”, it explains how effective consultation can be a part of the selling process.

Clients notice when you care, so make every effort and work with passion. This will be evident in the results.

Remember that everyone likes to be treated as an individual and know that you are interested in them and assisting them to achieve their goals! PB

Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191

Luxio is an extraordinary new Options Soak off UV Gel is the Luxio is an extraordinary new Options Soak off UV Gel is the UV/LED Soak Off Gel in a Polish technicians choice for the ultimate UV/LED Soak Off Gel in a Polish technicians choice for the ultimate Bottle. Easy to apply, with long manicure or pedicure. With 144 Bottle. Easy to apply, with long manicure or pedicure. With 144 lasting chip and smudge free long lasting colours to choose from, lasting chip and smudge free long lasting colours to choose from, colour and shine. Luxio is the Options delivers flawless results Options Soak off UV Gel is the colour and new shine. Luxio is the Options delivers flawless results Luxio is an extraordinary perfect for any manicure or that choice will amaze the most UV/LED Soak Off Gelfinish in a Polish technicians for theeven ultimate finish for any manicure or that will amazeWith even144 the most Bottle. Easyperfect to apply, with long Experience the manicure or pedicure. pedicure service. demanding client. pedicure service.

Experience the demanding client. lasting chipdifference and smudgeand freeenjoy long lasting colours to choose from, the results colour and difference shine. Luxioand is theenjoy the results Options delivers flawless results that 100% Gel delivers. perfect finish for any or delivers. that will amaze even the most thatmanicure 100% Gel demanding client.

NAILS PERFECTED – Only from Akzentz NAILS PERFECTED – Only from Akzentz COPYRIGHT © HAIGH INDUSTRIES INC. C11/12 COPYRIGHT © HAIGH INDUSTRIES INC. C11/12

• Follow-up appointments – discuss maintenance time between treatments and what will be done during the follow-up appointment and why.

• Home care maintenance – explain what to do at home should a problem occur, which products to use to maintain condition, how the client should use them, and how often.

pedicure service. Experience the difference and enjoy the results that 100% Gel delivers.

Distributed in South Africa by

www.akzentz.com www.akzentz.com

www.akzentz.com

Tel: 011 728 8060 Email: info@nailaffair.co.za Trade /Training Enquiries welcome

EXPECT THE BEST

Clinical Studies Showed Thicker, Fuller and more Lushes eyelashes in only 3 weeks!

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product focus - supplements

54

Essential add-ons Dietary supplements may either be classified as foods, drugs or other products, depending on which region you live in. Regardless of their classification supplements all have the same mission – to provide essential nutrients that may be (and probably are) lacking in our bodies.

DermaFix MSM (Methyl Sulfonyl Methane) helps reduce inflammation, balances pigmentation and reduces allergies. MSM is an odourless, non-toxic nutritional supplement (99.9% organic sulfur) which is found in food and in the human body. Sulfur is essential to the well-being of all living cells. MSM has been called ‘nature’s miracle healing nutrient’ and is one of nature’s richest sources of sulfur.

Dietary sulfur is an essential ingredient of protein necessary for collagen synthesis.

0861 28 23 23

Phytomer Silhouette Expert Dietary Supplement is an intensive treatment that results in a refined and re-sculpted figure. It contains a green tea extract (helps to eliminate water), a brown seaweed extract exclusive to Phytomer that stimulates lipolysis and encourages fat breakdown, and a fat-burning green coffee extract selected for a complete contouring action on the figure. There are no synthetic additives in this supplement, which has a detoxifying effect and results in a visible loss in centimetres.

011 486 4904

Supplements can include vitamins, minerals, fibre, fatty acids or amino acids, among other substances.

Thalgo’s Thalasso-Nutrition ranges comprise various algae which are combined with a selection of phyto ingredients.

The benefits of using an algae-based nutrition range include easy assimilation due to the products being 100% natural. They are certified organic and leave the body renewed and rejuvenated.

Thalgo’s five ranges address a variety of concerns ranging from general fatigue and lethargy, water retention and cellulite, menopausal weight gain, as well as an effective and user-friendly detox and slimming programme.

011 880 3850

Environ’s vitamin supplements contain carefully balanced combinations of nutrients, minerals, vitamins and antioxidants specifically designed to address various skin needs. The Vitamin A & D supplement assists with skin conditions associated with the natural ageing process, including wrinkles, while Environ’s Omega 3 is a blend of mercury-free deep ocean fish oils that helps the immune system. Environ’s Problem Skin is a supplement containing a combination of potent ingredients to promote healthy skin.

0800 220 402

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

Nailologie is a proudly South African nutritional supplement from Onycha Laboratories packed with vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and immune boosters specifically formulated to repair and strengthen damaged nails, and promote healthy nail growth. It can be used effectively in conjunction with other topical beauty products, allowing you to indulge in nail-fashion trends without damaging your nails.

Nailologie is formulated to repair and strengthen tired nails, while promoting healthy nail growth.

011 066 9242

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Your first step to beautiful feet.

Soft, smooth heels in a single application.

• Comfortably removes hard, dead or calloused skin • A single application lasts for weeks • Medi-Heel product range creates an experiential treatment which includes a pedicure ritual • Medi-Heel focuses on creating a luxurious treatment at a cost effective price

For more information contact: Tel: +27 (0) 11 880 3850/1 Fax: +27(0) 86 532 1265 sales@marinespadistributors.co.za

promotion

medical aesthetics

57

Perfect mix

combining anti-ageing treatments The aesthetic industry is continually flooded with anti-ageing treatment technologies so considering which treatment modality is best suited to a particular indication can be overwhelming. There is also talk of combining a variety of treatments in order to get the best results. Karen Ellithorne investigates.

A

n obvious question to ask when considering aesthetic treatments is – at what age should one start?

“Prevention is better than cure,” says Dr Minoka Nadesan from Novi Skin in Pretoria. “Prophylactic treatment has proved to be more successful than trying to repair skin that is already damaged.”

She agrees that there are age-appropriate treatments,

online at www.probeauty.co.za

such as Fraxel and VBeam, but stresses that basic skin rejuvenation and ageing awareness should start at a young age. Therefore, educating customers about the effects of UV A and UV B on the skin is essential. In addition, promoting water consumption will ensure that the skin is hydrated and that cellular functioning is at optimum levels.

“Good skin care is not age-dependent or agerestrictive,” continues Nadesan. “A good doctor can R

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

medical aesthetics

58 By the time you reach your sixties, 80% of the aging on your face is due to sun damage and only 20% is due to the passage of time.

Dr Mariaan Duvenage

perform a skin analysis and work out an appropriate skin care plan to prevent ageing, or correct the effects of ageing.”

By the time you reach your sixties, 80% of the aging on your face is due to sun damage and only 20% is due to the passage of time, according to dermatologist, Dr Mariaan Duvenage.

“You should be very diligent regarding the use of sunscreen from a young age. However, using sunscreen depletes your vitamin D levels as skin forms vitamin D from exposure to the sun. It is advisable to have your vitamin D levels checked biannually, as low Vitamin D levels can be disastrous for your health,” she emphasises.

Plastic surgeon Dr Japie de Wet concurs. “You can never be too young to start with a good skin care regimen and healthy habits.” He explains that invasive treatments, especially ones with permanent effects, need to be carefully considered and appropriately timed. For instance, a hyaluronic acid dermal filler treatment in the early twenties will not do any harm. By contrast, an inappropriate fat graft to the lips might result in a lifetime of regrets.

What treatments, when?

“My advice is to continue with the good habits that you’ve acquired in your twenties; watch your weight (especially during pregnancy) and manage pigmentation early, with appropriate agents and fractionated laser therapy,” continues De Wet. “A tad of Botox to relax the muscles between the eyebrows and around the eyes, will improve your appearance make your skin look younger.”

Dr Duvenage recommends the use of the exciting new Vampire facial in your thirties.

“In this treatment we draw the patients’ blood, separate it and re-inject the platelets-rich plasma into the skin with a technique called mesotherapy, whereby numerous very superficial injections are made into the skin with a very fine needle which stimulates wound healing. The result is intense rejuvenation for fine lines and wrinkles, sun damaged and dehydrated skin. The skin looks positively radiant after this treatment,” she claims.

De Wet describes the forties as a hectic time; kids have taken their toll on your body and your pocket, and ruined your schedule. Minimally invasive treatments like hyaluronic acid fillers and Botox will be the cornerstone to maintaining your skin. Superficial chemical peels will significantly enhance your skin care regimen, and he strongly suggests the addition of two essential agents – a retinoidbased treatment at night and a potent anti-oxidant in the morning.

In De Wet’s opinion, the most common facial procedure is eyelid surgery (or so-called blepharoplasty) to rejuvenate sagging eyelids. Breasts and tummies are also sculpted back into shape during the forties.

The stately fifties are when the bad habits of your twenties come back to haunt you. Skin elasticity is the buzzword. Shaping sagging cheeks might entail fillers, or possibly even a person’s own fat. These modalities also

The terrible trio that leave lifelong memories on the skin are: smoking, sun damage and scar formation (mostly due to acne).

During one’s twenties rejuvenation deals mostly with prevention rather than treatment. The terrible trio that leave lifelong memories on the skin are: smoking, sun damage and scar formation (mostly due to acne).

“An appropriate skin care regimen comprising a cleanser, moisturiser, sunscreen and anti-oxidant, combined with a healthy lifestyle, is usually all that is needed to get you through this phase,” comments De Wet. He notes that most women enter their childbearing age during their thirties. Hormones wreak havoc on the skin and weight fluctuations and pregnancies may stretch the skin irreparably and result in pigmentation changes.

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

SCINDERM MEDICAL

medical aesthetics

59 have limits, and a good aesthetician will know when it’s better to opt for the knife. A facelift and/or neck lift can make a huge difference for the right patient, says De Wet.

Combining treatments Dr Martina van der Mescht, an aesthetic practitioner on the West Rand, says: “No single cosmetic procedure can be expected to reverse all the unwanted signs of photo- or chronologic-ageing of the face. However, a growing body of scientific studies, coupled with recent clinical experience, shows that combining Botulinum toxin treatment with other techniques synergistically enhances, refines, and may even prolong, the effects that can be achieved with any single procedure.”

The key signs of chronologic ageing of the face are either dynamic changes (eg. rhytids arising from hyper-functional muscular activity) or Dr Japie de Wet static changes, such as atrophy of underlying soft tissue, sagging and certain superficial wrinkles.

Most patients seeking facial rejuvenation treatment have both dynamic and static signs of ageing. It is, therefore, a logical approach to combine various treatment modalities to address these different needs, according to Van der Mescht She advises that the treatment should preferably result in a subtle, natural look, which leaves patients looking refreshed rather than changed. This requires both a careful assessment of each patient’s particular facial anatomy in both dynamic and static positions, as well as a detailed discussion about their needs and expectations. Equally important is the physician’s recommendation about which combination of treatments to use, and in which order they should be given.

“Botulinum toxin treatment provides effective, reversible chemodenervation, resulting in the softening and relaxation of facial wrinkles. Its unique mechanism of action, simplicity, ease of use, safety and adjunctive use can be considered with every other treatment modality, and is mostly used by the 20 – 30 and 30 – 40 age groups.

“Thereafter the sagging and atrophy of the skin begins, due to loss of fat and muscle and changes in the bone structure. Fillers then play an important role, especially the hyaluronic acid fillers. Injectables can be combined with a good skin care range, skin peels and laser treatments for resurfacing. Surgery is the very last option and should only be carried out when needed,” concludes Van der Mescht. PB

A hyaluronic acid dermal filler treatment in the early twenties will not do any harm.

K o j i D e r m C A B T M S y s t e m S e r u m / P a d s / T o u c h S t i c k w/SKIN LIGHTENING ADDITIVE High Potency Skin Brightening System

•

Contains enzyme-activated Arbutin for enhanced skin lightening and brightening

• •

Contains penetration-enhancing Salicylic acid

• • •

Compounded freshly on dispensing for optimal potency

Fortified with Kojic and Ascorbic acids for chelating and anti-oxidant benefits Light weight fragrance—and preservative-free solution vehicle Available in three different applications - Serum, pads and touch stick for face, hands, body and spot areas of hyperpigmentation

Melanoceutical Skin Brightening System For more information or to book for product training, contact Tracey: Cell: 076 937 6388; email: info@scinderm.co.za or visit us at www.scinderm.co.za Available exclusively - dispensing from Medical or Aesthetic Professionals

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

TRADE ENQUIRIES WELCOME

promotion

60

Treating Acne Acne is a common problem affecting 20% of the population. The most common acne is presented as comedones, micro cysts, seborrhoea, papules, pustules and papulo pustules.

A

NESI’s Soin Dermo Correctuer, distributed

by Exclusive Beauty Solutions, has been formulated to limit the secretion of sebaceous glands, eliminate the bacteria responsible for acne reproduction, optimise the healing process in acne lesions and protect the skin from external aggressions.

The Coffret Dermo Correcteur treatment kit is used by professional therapists and comprises Activateur Masque, Masque Plantes, Lotion Concentré Anti-Imperfections and After 1 treatment Crème Correction Extreme.

The therapist commences the treatment by thoroughly cleansing the client’s skin with the Dermo Control Gel Mousse, followed by the Dermo Lotion Control.

Thereafter the Masque Plantes and Activateur are applied and left for four minutes, after which the therapist conducts a light massage with circular movements for a further four minutes, using latex gloves. This produces a deep peel to effectively renew the skin.

Masque Plantes contains the following ingredients: Plankton; Horsetail; Meadowsweet; and Peppermint.

Activateur Masque contains: Peroxide (Hydrogen Peroxide at 2% oxygen concentration); Chamomile; and Calendula.

In addition to the deep peel and the purifying effect, the mask acts as a powerful tissue regenerator, restores bacterial flora and prevents comedone formation. Contraindications are dermatitis and pregnancy.

The mask is removed with water and the skin toned with Dermo Lotion Control. A thick layer of Gel Oxigénant Aqua Vital is applied to soothe the skin.

For the regeneration phase, the Lotion Concentré AntiImperfections is applied directly on comedones, acne breakouts and scars formed by acne. This improves the skin texture and provides an even tone. Lotion Concentré AntiImperfections contains Salicylic Acid, Alfa Hydroxy Acids, Allantoin, Centella Asiática Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora, Glycerine and Urea.

The protection phase of the treatment consists of Crème

Prior to treatment

After 5 treatments

After 10 treatments Correction Extrême and the Écran Haute Protection SPF 30, which is essential to avoid skin photosensitivity.

This cream also contains anti-inflammatory ingredients.

ANESI’s recommended home care is the full range of Dermo Contrôle. In case of acne, infections and inflammation, treatment with Dermo Controle range and Crème Correction Extreme is mandatory.

For deep acne or very accentuated scars 10 treatments are recommended. For the first week of treatment the client must come in twice, within a threeday interval, and then once a week for 10 sessions. PB

Contact: Exclusive Beauty Solutions 011 791 4027

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product news

61 Collagen rules! R Gatineau’s Collagen Expert range has been scientifically developed to address the early signs of skin aging. The combination of AteloCollagen, Soluble Collagen and ProCollagen boosts the skin’s natural collagen levels, resulting in a smoother, more supple and radiant complexion. Deep hydration through hyaluronic acid and marine elastin achieves a softer, plumped-up skin, while Basaline and Silanol result in subtle skin restructuring and smoothing. The range comprises Collagen Expert Ultimate Smoothing Cream, Collagen Expert Smoothing Eye Concentrate and Collagen Expert Targeted Wrinkle Corrector.

021 701 2900

In the market

Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.

DermaFix Cellulite Tone & Tighten’s thermo active formula warms up the skin, ensuring immediate penetration of active ingredients and accelerating the reduction of adipose tissue. It stimulates the body’s natural detoxification pathway and substantially improves the elimination process, thereby improving the appearance of the tone and firmness of the skin. Actives in Cellulite Tone & Tighten are those associated with stimulation and are circulation-boosting. The metabolism is stimulated, smoothing the skin at problem zones and preventing cellulite. Fluid accumulation is reduced, metabolic activity is increased, and microcirculation and lymph flow are stimulated.

0861 28 23 23

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Resurfacing the skin

R

Toning and tightening r

Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Forte is a unique blend of glycolic, lactic, and salicyclic acids, along with retinol and retinyl palmitate, which function together for the ultimate in skin resurfacing. By applying this blend to the skin, the forceful actions of AHAs, BHAs and retinol go to work to help loosen the ‘cement’ that binds the dead skin (a keratolytic action), aiding faster shedding of this layer. Through doing this, Gamma Hydroxy Forte moisturises, exfoliates and supports the skin’s natural renewal process.

011 486 4904

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

product news

62 Good hands

r

Recently introduced, Medi-Hand is aimed at achieving younger-looking hands and nails, with a modern new approach. The Medi-Hand treatment includes powerful active ingredients which penetrate the skin faster and deeper, immediately hydrating the skin. A hydro-thermal exfoliator enables the skin to achieve maximum absorption. The Medi-Hand range includes illuminating nail cleanser (125ml); age reversal hand cream (80ml); ultra-hydrating hand cream (100 ml); hydro-thermal peel (100ml); and dark spot serum (10ml).

Due to popular demand, Radiant Healthcare, the distributor for Global Skin Dermatologist (GSD) in Africa, has added IPL and diode laser machines from Global Skin Dermatologist (GSD) to its inventory.

The machines include the Coolite, depi810, SPTF+ and the Ultralite.

GSD distributes a variety of IPLs, lasers, body-contouring systems and home devices in various parts of the world. It has CE certification and FDA approval on certain products and strives for high standards at all times.

011 794 8252/3

R

Targeting cellulite

The Bellabaci team has designed the perfect trio to target cellulite in three easy steps. Step one is the Kese – a magic mitt made of silk, silk harvest, tree and bamboo cellulose, poplar bark cellulose and goat hair. This is followed by the Genie: this celluliteblasting formula contains essential oils, including coconut oil. Step 3 is the Cups, which incorporates negative pressure with pulling power up to four inches deep, to loosen toxic waste as well as fatty deposits and excess fluid. Pores are also opened, increasing the Genie’s penetration.

083 459 9357

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

Tackling the sun

R

New IPL and laser machines

R

011 880 3850

Dermalogica’s New Protection 50 Sport SPF50 is a broad-spectrum sunscreen for both face and body, which utilises lipidrich Oleosome microspheres that boost sun protection (SPF50) and antioxidants to help defend the skin.

The formula includes a blend of essential oils to soothe irritation from UV exposure, while hyaluronic acid binds moisture to the skin without greasiness.

This new product is waterresistant for up to 40 minutes. Dermalogica’s After Sun Repair instantly reduces redness and cools sunburned skin with chamomile, clove, cucumber, Szechwan pepper, lavender and yucca.

011 268 0018

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product news

Inspirational looks

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63

A classic look on runways worldwide, the Muse Collection from MUD gives inspiration with glimmering metallic eyes, and naturally defined lips and cheeks. The mysteriously soft, yet edgy look is simple to apply, but allows for additional products to be used to add more drama. Each Muse Collection look includes: Tinsel Eye Colour Compact; Graphite Eye Colour Compact; Cajun Spice Eye Colour Compact; #810 Smudger Brush and Sweet Cheeks Colour Crème. Add-ons include Volumising Mascara; Cream Foundation; Loose Powder; and Eyelashes 106 and 202.

084 956 5285

R

Plumped lips

At the cutting edge of innovation from technological scientific research is the latest line of Hydro-Nutritive care products from Ericson Laboratoire. They work on the skin’s natural moisturising mechanisms and increase the flow of water to ensure optimal moisturisation levels. Enriched with intelligent hydro-lipids, Hyaluronic Lipstick 101 can adjust the amount of moisture it provides to lips depending on the humidity levels in the atmosphere.

011 783 9817

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

product news

64 Delicate exfoliation r Composed of the organic powders of argan kernels and cranberries, Issahra Radiance Grain gently removes dead skin cells and impurities while stimulating cell renewal. The organic argan oil, together with shea butter and beeswax, revitalises, tones and protects the skin against drying, preventing premature ageing.

This natural exfoliator contains extrait originel of organis orance, a pure and balanced fruit rich in water, vitamins, trace elements and minerals.

Matching all skin tones R

Upper lip serum

Juliette Armand, the newly launched cosmetics brand in South Africa, has a patented Colour Control cream formulated to match any skin tone. It repairs skin tone with multiple actions and combines seven different colour dispersions in a completely natural way. The CC Cream contains hyaluronic acid; Vitamin PP; aloe vera; absorbent and reflective sun filters (SPF 10) and Matrixyl 30000 Tetrapeptide, which smoothes wrinkles and fine lines.

The unique Lip Line Corrector from QMS Medicosmetics is a lightweight serum that has been exclusively formulated to reduce fine lines and wrinkles in the upper lip area. Using advanced technology, the product is based on the remarkable, synergistic effect of four-fold hyaluronic acid, Wakame seaweed extract and Phytosterols. Scientific studies show a reduction of 35.53% in the wrinkle depth after 12 weeks.

0860 01 80 22

011 033 0500

Superfood for the eyes r Nourish has launched Revital-Eyes eye cream – a brightening, anti-ageing formula that treats dark circles, crows’ feet and puffy eyes by using the latest technology and ingredients. Revital-Eyes features essential cutting-edge peptides, enzymes, Vitamins B and E, organic kale extract with K Vitamins, unique anti-oxidants, light-emitting Tonka Bean and yeast extracts. Kale extract is used to protect skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and redness, while promoting healing and a reduction in swelling.

072 133 4852

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

R

021 424 5503

stern.aesthetics medical aesthetic solutions

“We offer training, maintenance, repairs, installations and sales on the finest world class medical and aesthetic brands.�

Lasers by:

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Laser Hair Removal Vein Removal Pigmentation Vascular lessions Skin tightening Fat Freezing Cellulite Treatment Micro-needling Focused Ultrasound Radio Frequency CarboxyTherapy Cryolipolysis Stretch Marks Laser Resurfacing Rejuvenation Skin Care Products Scars & Acne Tattoo Removal Dermal Fillers Microdermabrasion Light Therapy Shock Wave Therapy

MAKE YOUR INVESTMENT TODAY! Call 08611 STERN (78376)

Ian : 082 551 5938

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hair news

66

City & Guilds agreement Due to the current problems experienced by hairdressing learners who find it difficult to find work once they have done the SA qualification, trade union UASA had to look at alternative measures to assist its members to obtain a qualification that the industry will recognise.

Says Stephen Delport, UASA sector manager of hairdressing, cosmetology, beauty and skincare: “In collaboration with the Employer’s Organisation and City & Guilds, we came to an agreement that anyone who has done their City & Guilds Diploma Level 3 will be recognised by the industry as a qualified hairstylist.”

Beach style chic To evoke the beach babe and surfer chic look, use OSMO Matt Sea Spray to achieve voluminous, gritty, messed and grungy-styled hair. This mattifying texture sea spray has a light citrus fragrance and is suitable for all hair types.

0860 009 908

Delport stresses that this qualification does not replace the SA qualification. “Rather it creates an alternative route for learners to qualify and be recognised by the industry.

To deal with those learners who have already completed their SETA Level 4, both theory and practical, and have been unable to qualify, we have put together an RPL (Recognition of Prior Learning) process to enable these learners to obtain the City & Guilds international qualification,” he comments.

021 425 2153

Intelligent brushing The magic of the Wet Brush lies in its specially formulated Intelliflex bristles, which are thin, strong and very flexible. This adaptive flexibility eliminates all tugging, tearing, pulling and ripping, so there are no split ends or hair loss. The Wet Brush creates the perfect transition from wash to style. It works on wet and dry hair and is ideal for thick, curly and straight hair and for hair extensions and wigs.

0860 009 908

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

online at www.probeauty.co.za

hair news

67

Hair like an ‘angel’ Available in a variety of colours, Angelwings Hair Extensions are handmade with 100% premium Indian Remy Hair, which means no mixes or synthetic hair are used. Angelwings offers tape hair extensions that use the same technology as for securing lace-front wigs, I-Tip Extensions, which utilise the micro-lock method, and clip-in extensions. The extensions have a life span of up to two years if worn permanently and a professional hair care system is used.

082 593 0032

Eclipsed locks The game-changing ghd eclipse styler, which boasts a highshine, white gloss finish, features the same patented tri-zone technology as the original eclipse styler. Three quick-thinking sensors in each plate maintain the scientifically proven, optimum styling temperature of 185˚C. Thus styling requires less heat. The ghd eclipse also features precision-finished plates which are flatter and smoother, to glide through even the thickest hair.

011 463 8601

Non-invasive Radio Frequency Technology with immediate results on minor skin lesions Before

After

Indications: Vascular Lesions: Broken capillaries, Ruby points, Spider Naevi & Raised Angiomas Keratinised Lesions: Fibromas, Solar Keratosis, Skin Tags with & without stalks, Seborrheic Keratosis, Dermatosis Papulosa Nigra Sebaceous Lesions: Cholesterol Deposits, Milia, Clogged Pores, Cysts, Pimples

Benefits for Professionals:  Simple & easy to use  Non-invasive treatments  Receive specialised training  Increased knowledge & Skills  Significant revenue generation  Mobile service option  FDA & CE Approved  5 year warranty

Benefits for Clients:  Non-invasive  No blistering  No down-time  No scarring  No hyper-pigmentation  Treatments are painless  Treatments are quick  Safe on all skin types FOR SALE TO ADVANCED SOMATOLOGISTS

Set yourself aside from your competitors Offer highly skilled treatments to your clients that will remove their unsightly skin blemishes & change their lives forever.

Purchase the Lamprobe Today!

For Sales & Training Info Contact: Janine Thomson 071 875 5348 janine@lamprobe.co.za

To view video clips on these procedure & before and after pictures go to: online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty January/February 2014 www.lamprobe.co.za www.lamprobe.co.za

business tips

68 Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

63rd CIDESCO World Congress & Exhibition 2015 to be hosted

by CIDESCO South Africa (SAAHSP) The South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals (SAAHSP – CIDESCO Section South Africa) is delighted to confirm that a proposal to host this important event was accepted and ratified in November at the CIDESCO General Assembly in Wuhan, China, part of the 61st CIDESCO World Congress.

An enthusiastic and delighted Menna Kleine, President of SAAHSP, together with the South African contingent (CIDESCO Hon. President Helene Bramwell, Isabel Roos and Arlene Davey), assured CIDESCO international members that South Africa would do justice to this prestigious event.

She promised that, as the country had hosted the event successfully before, it would do so again.

The venue will be Sandton, Gauteng, in May 2015. It will be a great opportunity for exhibitors and

Menna Kleine SAAHSP President practitioners in the field of beauty to exhibit, break new ground, exchange ideas, introduce new developments and have dialogue with CIDESCO International members and colleagues worldwide.

It will be a meeting of minds, committed to enhancing the profession and education.

CIDESCO (Comité International D’Esthétique et de Cosmétologie) is a global organisation founded in 1946 that has effectively influenced the standards of

education worldwide with its CIDESCO Diploma and accreditation of CIDESCO schools and beauty centres – a recognisable passport to the international world of spa and beauty therapy.

Anyone interested in exhibiting at or attending the 2015 CIDESCO World Congress & Exhibition should please contact Bridget Badenhorst at 082 610 0650 or Joelette Theron at 011 675 6518 or email joelette@ saahsp.co.za

Congratulations to SAAHSP (CIDESCO South Africa) on registration of designations The South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals (SAAHSP) is proud to announce that the following designations can now be registered from the beginning of 2014: • Somatology • Beauty technology • Beauty therapist • Nail technologist A professional designation indicates registration of the individual with a professional

body, and, where relevant, the right to practise in a particular field of expertise governed by the professional body. This must be registered separately from a qualification and can be revoked in terms of rules and legislation.

Becoming a registered designated member shows commitment to the industry, its employers, stakeholders, clients, their business and one’s own personal development. It also shows interest in the industry, passion

Professional Beauty January/February 2014

for one’s occupation and that the member’s knowledge is up to date both nationally and internationally.

The industry therefore becomes self-regulated and the standard of excellence is established. Growth of credibility and professionalism is guaranteed. Unqualified practitioners trying to enter the industry without credentials will not be tolerated.

For more information please contact Joelette Theron at proffbody@saahsp.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

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MATSIMELA HOME SPA BRINGS YOU THE FINEST PRODUCTS THAT ARE A FEAST FOR THE SENSES!

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Skin lightening gel by SB A PROVEN SYSTEM FOR THE TREATMENT OF: • Uneven skin colour • Sun damage • Pimple marks • Hyper pigmentation • General skin brightening and lightening • Skin damage from abrasive chemicals suitable for underarm, bikini areas, elbow, knees and lips

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NadiaZTM seeks distributors in the high-end beauty, healthcare and wellness sectors sharing its vision of providing biodiversity-based, communitysupporting organic products.

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Professional Beauty January/February 2014

THIS VALUABLE SPACE IS AVAILABLE To find out more call Knowledge: 011 781-5970

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