Meal Ticket, 2011, Issue No. 1
Published by Philadelphia City Paper, 2011.
In search of Philly's best horchata | How to not get killed by your bartender B E E R B A R TA Q U E R I A Imagine Aztec goddess of alcohol, Mayahuel, and the Greek god of revelry, Dionysus reproducing. Now picture that baby frolicking through hills filled with beautiful women, margarita streams, and trees whose fruit are the world's greatest nachos.The Phillies make the playoffs every year of his life. This is Jose Pistola's. Join us for Philly Beer Week June 3rd - Meet the Brewer Lunch with Weyerbacher and Chris Wilson. Starts at noon with a firkin of something special to kick off our beer week. June 4th - Ludacrismas Night featuring all of our aged Christmas Beers (Troegs Mad Elf, St. Feuillien Xmas, Scaldis Noel, N'ice Chouffe, and Avec les Bon Voeux) on draft. Deejay spinning old school hip hop and a live performance from Francincense & Murder of Triple XXXmas Records. Hip Hop Hooray Ho Ho Ho! June 6th - Lunch with North Coast Brewing June 6th 7-10pm - Join us for an evening of Extreme Homebrew inspired insanity. Casey Parker and Joe Gunn welcome George Hummel, author of "The Complete Homebrew Beer Book" and Nancy Rigberg of Home Sweet Homebrew and special guest Sam Calagione of the Dogfish Head Craft Brewery. Included in the Judge Registration fee of $15, besides lots of complimentary homebrew and tasty snacks, is a chance to vote with Sam in selecting the winner of the Extreme Homebrew Challenge. Sample the wildest beers that Philly's Homebrewers have to offer and vote for the People's Choice. Sam will select amongst the winners to be brewed at the Dogfish Head Brewery and entered into the Pro-Am category at an upcoming Great American Beer Festival in Denver, CO. Reflecting the homebrewing spirit, the bar at Jose's will feature commercial beers from brewers with homebrewing roots. The beers will PAYG by the glass or flights. June 6th - Late Night with Joe Gunn Featuring Musical Guest Lightninging. 11pm June 7th - Lunch with Yards. This is our first ever Yards Beer Week event. We'll have a firkin of something tasty and delicious as well as the last bit of our Trubbel de Yards. Food Specials include the return of the Scrapple Cheese Steak and South Philly Pretzels. June 7th - MeetThe Brewer...Kinda'. Join us and Sierra Nevada and the members of Beer Camp 46 as they unveil their Brand New Hoppy Session Ale - Lighter Shade Of Pale. 7pm June 7th - Late Night with Joe Gunn Variety Show. 11pm June 8th - A Taste Of Sonoma with Lagunitas Brewing. We will be pouring the Fusion 6, Hop Stoopid, amongst others. These beers will be paired with cheeses from a few of the local creameries surrounding the brewery. 7-10pm June 8th - Late Night with Joe Gunn Variety Show. 11pm June 9th - Lunch with Ithaca June 9th - Late Night with Joe Gunn Variety Show. 11pm June 10th - Lunch with Jolly Pumpkin. Draft selections include Maracaibo Especial, Noel de Calabaza, and Madrugada Obscura. Plus La Roja and Oro de Calabaza with other selections to be announced. June 10th - Happy Hour with Founders Brewing (selections to be announced) 215.545.4101 � 263 S. 15th Street www.josepistolas.com EST 1930 If You Went To The Other Guy, You Made A Misteak!!! PAT'S KING OF 9th & PASSYUNK AVE. STEAKS EST 1930 Ph!lly loves ticket A R CH O N � S AT 8 ~M �6 FRE 12TH SH & LO & SU & �5 N9 CAL RM VE IN A LM RY DA ARKET.OR G~ Park for $4 ALL ORGANIC ALL LOCALLY SOURCED* ALL UNDER 500 CALORIES GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT GREAT FOR YOUR BODY *All products are locally sourced when in season. OM L HILLY.C .FUE21P-922-FUEL (3835) (3835) WWW T . 5 8-FUEL 5-46 PM ALNU 1225 W PASSYUNK . 21 NDAY. 11AM-9 SU ST 0PM . 1917 EA -1 T. 11AM MON-SA 15 -9 22 -231 7~ 2 Y ~ READ E E IN GT Contents copyright � 2011, Metroweek Corp. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Metroweek Corp. assumes no responsibility (other than cancellation of charges for actual space occupied) for accidental errors in advertising but will be glad to furnish a signed letter to the buying public. Ask about our special overnight room rates at the Loews Hotel SoleFood is a fusion of seafood and cutting edge culinary expertise, offering seafood inspired dishes at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Discover our unique atmosphere and experience another level of distinction at SoleFood Philadelphia restaurant. Breakfast: Daily 6:30 am � 11:00 am Brunch: Saturday & Sunday 11:30 am � 2:00 pm Lunch: Monday � Friday 11:30 am � 2:00 pm Dinner: Daily 5:30 pm � 10:00 pm 1200 Market Street Philadelphia, PA 19107 215-231-7300 restaurant bar always distinctive open seven days brunch . lunch . dinner late night . catering private dining 306 market street 215 625 9425 forkrestaurant.com ticket "We have to be efficient with space, since our food has so many small components," says Marigold Kitchen (501 S. 45th St.) chef/ owner Robert Halpern, a devotee of modern cooking -- see the frothed rose "bubbles" that join the orchids (foreground) on his king salmon dish. Pickled, mandolinsliced cucumber (left) and rhubarb (front, right), plus orange segments, also accompany the salmon. Pineapple joins a General Tso's sweetbreads setup, while dehydrated lemon "chips" (back, left) are worked into hamachi sashimi. Michael Caspi and his crew arrive at his Morris House Hotel kitchen (231 S. Eighth St.) as early as 8 a.m. to begin prep. That's because there are many ingredients the chef must manipulate before they even touch a mise container. Beets (bottom left corner), olives (bottom center) and assorted fruit (second from left, center) are dehydrated into powders for fish, vegetable and soup preparations, respectively. Traditional brunoised vegetables (center) join unconven- tional elements like a lamb dish's medjool date pur�e (top), mixed with chicken jus and olive oil and tied together in plastic-wrapped links like tiny sausages. Other mise items: dried blood orange "raisins," which are tossed in a salad; and matcha, a Japanese green tea (bottom right), which is strung up in a sack to lightly dust over plates. Tiffin's executive chef, Sylva Senat, is Haitian by birth and had never formally cooked Indian cuisine before coming on to run Munish Narula's six-restaurant Philly empire (soon to be seven, with Broad Street's high-end Tashan on the way). He quickly learned that each restaurant, including the flagship (712 W. Girard Ave.), has its own handmade metal spice box stocked with raw ingredients and masalas, the spice blends each location preps in half-cup batches with a coffeebean grinder. First row (L-R): Bay leaf, "Royal" masala (for lamb and chicken dishes), black cardamom pods, dried chilies. Second row (LR): Chaat masala (mild), walnuts, golden raisins, fresh cilantro. Third row (L-R): fennel seed, turmeric, cayenne pepper, green cardamom pods. Ben Puchowitz of Matyson (37 S. 19th St.) has as many as 80 different mised-out items on his line on any given evening, thanks to the intricacies of the BYOB's monthlychanging menu. Here's the setup for one of Puchowitz's richer pasta appetizers: Housemade ricotta cavatelli (center top) is served with (clockwise from pasta) Tuscan kale, lamb belly jus (gelatinized at room temperature here; it quickly turns to liquid in a pan), black cerignola olives, fried lamb belly, preserved Meyer lemon strips and Parmesan cheese. (The fire-enginered house-pickled cherry peppers in the round dish go with a separate hiramasa setup.) continued on page 8 � � continued from page 7 Prepared-food market, deli and sandwich shop Plenty (1710 E. Passyunk Ave.) is a showcase for chef Tim McGinnis' skill with cured and smoked meats, all of which are set up on a prep line for fast access. Simple brined turkey breast (top row, right) joins more laborious preparations like beef brisket (bottom row, left), coated in a Texas barbecue-style spice rub and smoked with hickory for 10 to 12 hours. The tasso ham (second row, center), derived locally from Country Time Farm, is cured in a rub of cayenne, black pepper, allspice and Herbes de Provence. Chickpeas, pickled red onion and McGinnis' scratch-made Cumberland sauce (a traditional charcuterie condiment containing currants and shallots cooked down in port, with cayenne, sugar and powdered mustard) round out Plenty's mise. When Jennifer Carroll, chef de cuisine at 10 Arts (Ritz-Carlton, 10 S. Broad St.), began cooking at Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin, she started from the bottom and worked her way up, eventually becoming sous chef. (She was tapped to run Ripert's Philly outpost in 2008.) This meant many an early morning prepping mise en place for the seafood temple. She now oversees an entire squad of cooks doing the same in 10 Arts' massive kitchen. On the left: "nine pans" (so called because nine of them fit in a large hotel pan) filled with (from left) chives, thin-sliced "ninja" radish, passionfruit vinaigrette, micro cilantro and pickled watermelon radish, to go with precisely sliced, quick-seared cubes of yellowfin tuna. On the right are the ingredients for Carroll's watercress soup (clockwise from left): watercress pur�e, potato leek base, crunchy croutons and housemade ricotta cheese. (firstname.lastname@example.org) 124 Beaver Valley Road, Chadds Ford PA 19317 www.pennswoodswinery.com - 610.459.0808 Indulge in a tasting of Ultra Premium Pennsylvania Wines, & Enjoy Our Majestic Vineyard Setting. Located off of 202 just minutes from Wilimgton, DE & 35 minutes from Philadelphia. An Argentinian Italian BYO 215.925.0900 ticket One of the easier-to-swallow lessons that renovations beget is where to eat when time is slimmer than a 1/32-inch drill bit and -- surprise! -- the whole house needs to be rewired and that'll be $3,000, please. For me, it started with Rocco's, the sausageslinging operation that feeds the utility-belted cognoscenti outside three area Home Depots. Speedy yet courteous, simple yet supremely flavorful, Rocco's embodies the idea that fast food needn't be ass food. For carpenters, plumbers, roofers, stonemasons, landscapers and hardwood refinishers -- just a few of the characters with whom you become intimately acquainted during home improvement -- lunch is not something to linger over. Ditto for the stevedores, truck drivers and mechanics who start their workdays when most of us are going to bed. These haunts have names as plain as their digs: Moe, John, Frank, Mike. (You wouldn't trust a place named Bryce's Sausage, would you?) Whether you're in the throes of remodeling or not, work them into your dining rotation and you'll be dropping their names into conversation as if they (and you) were just another one of the guys. tion company hoodies here than anywhere else in the city. Sliced off a giant serpentine meat spiral, speared with a two-pronged fork and stuffed into Amoroso rolls, the sausage is a textural dynamo, the bronzed casings snapping like rubber bands. Mustard. Peppers. Onions. Even Parmigiana, finished with marinara ladled from soup warmers. 1651 S. Columbus Blvd. and 2539 Castor Ave., 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily; 4640 Roosevelt Blvd., 8 a.m.-7 p.m. daily. friendly grill-masters call you "sir" and the Utz chips are always on the house -- cause enough to like owner Dan Winter's sausage-shed threesome, spin-offs from his best friend's same-named linkery in Queens. They serve breakfast sandwiches and steaks, but the hot-and-sweet sausage (a custom blend from Maglio's) is the real reason you'll see more construc- of the State Road prisons' escapee alarms has its advantages. A steady supply of uniformed guards cross the highway for Chubby's daily deals ($3.89 Wednesday flapjacks) eaten at a counter decked with Pennsylvania Lotto machines. Be advised that extra syrup is 30 cents a pack, but it's worth the splurge for this lively luncheonette, also a favorite of the grease-streaked mechanics who work in the auto body shop Chubby's continued on page 12 � 637 NORTH 3RD STREET 215-627-6711 WWW.THEABBAYE.NET � continued from page 10 shares a parking lot with. 8312 State Road, 215-708-8601. Mon.-Fri., 4:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sat., 4:30 a.m-11 a.m. that "The Hot Dog Guy" is the only last name Mike will give out. Construction crews, 1st District cops and dog devotees know where to find the quilted silver cart fit on the bed of his hunter-green Ford F-250. It's on Passyunk between 23rd and 24th, where Mike's been serving steamed franks for the past 30 years beneath a white-and-navy Dietz & Watson umbrella. Feet planted on a cushion of rubber floor mats, he stuffs, tops, wraps and bags dogs in seconds flat, all while practicing the art of affable small talk with customers who line up rain or shine. The Italian sausages are double the size of the hot dogs, and doubly good piled high with homemade pepper hash. Passyunk Avenue between 23rd and 24th streets, no phone. Mon.-Fri., 9:30 a.m.-4 p.m. the municipal piers along Columbus. Since 1989, it's been run by Joe Trocino, whose father, Frank, started the business out of the back of a truck while recovering from a constructionsite injury in the 1950s. The root-beerbrown hut with mustard-yellow trim opens early for dockworkers, and later in the a.m. truckers pepper the line of laminate tables in the front of the room, each set with just one chair for maximum just-me-and-the-open-road effect. Besides griddle-browned pancakes, egg sandwiches and salty flows of chipped beef, Frank's sells gum, smokes, aspirin, Phillies commemorative pint glasses and beer to fill them with. The fridge at the end of the long stainless-steel counter is stocked with pounders of Colt 45 and Natty Ice, the real breakfast of champions. 2433 S. Columbus Blvd., 215-339-8840. Mon.Fri., 5 a.m.-3:30 p.m. saucy meatball sandwiches, Saranwrapped doughnuts and corn muffins the crew will thoughtfully split, grill and spread with butter. 3490 S. Front St., 215-755-4635. restroom, fast service," reads one of three Miller Lite-branded signs mounted to the rusty chain-link fence dividing Frank's Breakfast & Lunch, a favorite of longshoremen since 1966, from tracks, where the ass end of Columbus Boulevard flows into double-wide Pattison Avenue, the unobstructed light catches the fluorescent-yellow vests of the fork-lift operators who work at the surrounding marine terminals and produce warehouses. They mill about outside Mike's Lunch, a candy-apple-red truck whose mascot, a burly mustachioed cartoon butcher clutching a basketful of sausage links, should give a clue what the fuss is about. There's also roast beef, like much from the outside -- just a low-slung brick bunker gripping a triangular patch of Grays Ferry real estate -- but inside, Moe's faux-pressed-tin ceiling, scrubbed pine wainscoting and framed black-and-whites of local landmarks project an air of surprise spiffiness. Workers from nearby Trigen Energy and Diamond Tools have been lining up here for the past five-and-a-half years, since owner Paul Camerote, along with wife, Lois, and daughter/chef, Amber Eberz, converted part of his HVAC office into a "mini-diner." Though Moe's open kitchen puts out everything from fish cakes and milkshakes to chicken parm and house-made applesauce, the Dietz & Watson dogs are the main attraction. Mounted on sturdy Cacia's rolls, they come in dozens of styles, topped with everything from mac 'n' cheese (the Connie Mac) to chili, onions, jalape�os and salsa (the Hot in the City), best washed down with Champ Cherry from the soda fountain. 2601 Washington Ave., 215465-MOES. Mon.-Fri., 6:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (email@example.com) THAI CUISINE Mention this ad & enjoy a free drink (limited time offer) Dinner. Sun-Thurs 4:00pm - 10:00pm. Fri-Sat. 4:00pm - 10:30pm 925 Arch St Phila., PA. 19107. T:215-922-7135 www. Erawanchinatown.com This side of south Philly CELEBRATING 28 YEARS 201 Jefferson St. Belmont Hills 610-668-1712 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3 Dinner: Sun-thurs 4:30-10 Fri & Sat: 4:30-11 ticket fish, let's get you drunk. While most bar-goers are generally agreeable, a perplexing minority abandon basic courtesy when faced with that big bar and the human being manning it. So rather than viewing this guide as an indictment of people forking over their hard-earned money for drinks, think of it as one big generous tip. Some may consider this response a shade extreme, but to those laboring in the sticky trenches behind bars, it reads like a fantasy headline: Mannerless Clod Receives Richly Deserved Comeuppance! Without the opportunity to observe customers in nontransactional habitats, bartenders can size up their benefactors only by the behaviors they display in the public drinking environment. As Doyle immediately pointed out in our conversation, without customers, bartenders don't make a living. This symbiosis could be characterized as mutualism, a relationship between two different species where both individuals derive a benefit -- e.g., you're a shrimp, I'm a goby under 30 and your bartender asks for ID, don't give them an indignant sigh or an attitude, especially if you're 22," says Jonn Klein, bartender and owner of The Dive and Watkins Drinkery. Your bartender isn't interested in your address or your photo -- only in covering their frighteningly exposed ass under state law, as Klein notes: "Don't leave your house without ID if you're planning to go to a bar and look under 30. That's just common sense." your surroundings,'" says Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co. bartender/manager Colin Shearn. You're out for a fun night on the town. But in order for you to even have that fun, work needs to get done, so make room. "If you see servers coming and going from one part of the bar, marked by brass rails or a sign that says `Service' or a large black rubber drink mat ... don't stand there," says Shearn. pointers could be summed up by saying, `Be aware of can be the critical difference between a mediocre watering hole and a sweetheart saloon. But abusers of DJ privileges, like "anyone who plays any song more than once per visit" at Joe Gunn's bar Jos� Pistolas, might just suffer the worst consequence: a permanently dry glass. "Jukes allow for any fool with $5 in his or her pocket to really screw up the vibe," says Rees Brown of Grace Tavern. Don't be that fool. continued on page 16 � SEAFOOD, CHINESE, AMERICAN CUISINE The Best Priced Chinese Buffet In South Philadelphia We the Meatballs, Our Nonni Started A Revolution marabella meatball co. 1211 Walnut St . 215-238-1833 www.marabellameatballco.com Mon. � Sat.: 11:00am. - 4:00pm. Adult: $5.99. Child (2-9): $3.49 LUNCH BUFFET Mon. � Thurs.: 4:00 pm. � 10:30 pm. Fri. � Sat.: 4:00 pm. � 11:00 pm. Adult: $9.29. Child (2-9): $4.49. DINNER BUFFET A L L D AY S U N D AY B U F F E T 12:00 noon � 10:30 pm. Adult: $9.29. Child (2-9): $4.49 Prices are subject to change without notice. Free Ice Cream and Soda for eat in buffet only. 10% OFF With this coupon. Not to be combined with any other offer. Reservation Acceptable (6 or More). Private Room Available FRONT STREET SNYDER PLAZA 40-44 Snyder Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19148. Tel: 215-339-1986 . Fax: 215-339-1989 TOTAL CHECK Do You Like It Raw? � continued from page 14 "Maybe the jukebox isn't the best medium to show the world what you're `all about,'" adds The Franklin's Shearn. "Or for irony. Play some fucking rock 'n' roll and move on with your life." same time socially dysfunctional nerds became celebrated billionaires (thank The Social Network), keeping things cool and low-key lost its cachet. That being said, here's a vital piece of advice for bar-going novices: Asking for free drinks virtually guarantees you will not get any, ever. Free drinks are a not a right, but a privilege bestowed on steady regulars, lavish tippers and VIPs as indicated by bar owners. Haranguing your bartender or begging for stronger drinks without being willing to pay for doubles is just about as lame as it gets. "My regulars know they are getting a strong drink for a good price and tip accordingly," says longtime Dirty Frank's bar queen Jody Sweitzer. "They don't comment on how cheap our prices are and then graciously tip 50 cents." Asking for the cheapest thing on the menu, noted several on the panel, is also unlikely to endear you to your server, and those who "wave their money frantically and scream as if they have been stranded on an island with no food and water for months," as Sweitzer puts it, typically meet the same fate. Cliff's Notes version: Just. Be. Cool. really busy, I am smiling on the inside," shares Sweitzer, who has clearly suffered, as all female bartenders do, thousands of suggestions to put on a happy face. "[Those customers don't] have the ability to understand that I wouldn't show up to their job when they are deep in shit and make them feel worse because their countenance was not to my liking." Multitasking, a permanent state for anyone who works at a bar, does not include matchmaking services from Gunn: "Guys should not ask bartenders for help picking up girls." As for "that guy" who keeps annoyingly inserting himself into other people's conversations? Glommy singles who drive away other guests acquire unshakably bad reputations with bartenders quickly. Lest the bar-going public lose confidence in their best-loved mixmaster, fear not. The best in the business cleave to Heather Keating of the P.O.P.E.'s philosophy: "I can't change your life, but I can change your night -- hopefully in a good way." Drink on. (firstname.lastname@example.org) Felicia D'Ambrosio has had a long and infamous career behind bars, and still makes cameo appearances at Monk's Caf�. LOOKING FOR A TRUE CRAB HOUSE? It's just 25 minutes from Philadelphia in Burlington, NJ We are a true crab house since 1961 serving Blues from Maryland & New Jersey Snow, Dungeness, King and best of all WE ARE DIRECT IMPORTERS OF JUMBO UP TO MONSTERS PACIFIC BLUES FROM THE WEST COAST OF BAJA CALIFORNIA (they are sweeter & heavier then their American cousins) CRABLOVER ATTENTION ALL YOU CAN EAT Snow, Dungeness, Blues & King Crab Parts 7 Days a week (not all types are always available) BYOB open 7 days a week year round BLUE CLAW CRAB EATERY See our web site for more information crabeatery.com 4494 Rt. 130, Burlington, NJ 08016, (609) 387-3700 ticket The apparent simplicity of horchata speaks volumes about the diversity of Mexico's national palate. That's because the drink -- some combination of rice, cinnamon, water, milk and sugar -- can be tweaked in ways both subtle and drastic to yield many different iterations. "In taquerias, it's there. On the streets when it's hot, it's there," says Plaza Garibaldi's Raul Castro. Just as with using powdered mixes for iced tea or lemonade, not everyone makes horchata from scratch. When they do, there are countless variations to consider. Many begin with the rice powder and go from there, while those like Castro start further back with untouched rice. A drink containing milk isn't what first springs to mind to when trying to beat summer heat -- Pura Vida owner Charles Alvarez says he often compares it to cereal milk for customers unfamiliar with it -- but horchata is mostly water, anyway. In fact, many make it with no leche at all, allowing that floral rice flavor to really come through. Milkless horchata can be found sitting out at room temperature in glass vessels awaiting the draw of a ladle. In these versions, cinnamon can be mixed in prior to serving; other times it's dusted over top to order, in an aesthetically pleasing sprinkle that flavors the drink as it falls to the bottom of the cup. The light use of milk (usually whole) in the recipes featuring dairy, however, provides an intimation of creaminess without making the drink heavy (measurements vary, but many recipes call for roughly two parts milk for every five parts water). The addition of milk not only sweetens the drink (a trait that can be enhanced with vanilla, sugar or condensed milk), it also bolsters horchata's ability to extinguish a spiced-out mouth. At (935 Washington Ave.), chef/owner Castro lets rice sit overnight in water ahead of blending it, straining it and blending it again with milk (evaporated and whole) and cinnamon. He sweetens the mix with a pinch of vanilla and some sugar. The key here is Mexican cinnamon, or canela; with the leafiness of tobacco, it has a pronounced bite that gradually lays into the back of the tongue. The spiciness of Garibaldi's horchata, poured from a chilled dispenser, hits in varying waves, cut by a giddy, rice-puddinglike creaminess. It's perfect paired with Castro's oaxaca cheese and masa quesadillas. Ask for horchata at (408 S. Second St.) and your bartender will turn around to grab one of three bulbous glass jugs (the other two are hibiscus and tamarind aguas frescas). Poured over ice into a tall Collins glass, this milkless horchata continued on page 20 � WE DEFINE CULINARY ARTS Support Philadelphia's next top chefs with our special prix fixe dinner menus. For daily menu changes and to make a reservation visit www.culinaryarts.edu 1212 S. Broad Street 215-468-8800 www.culinaryarts.edu FREE � continued from page 18 has a slightly grainy feel. Manager Sergio Ruiz takes a from-scratch approach, soaking his rice for eight to 10 hours before blending it and passing it through cheesecloth twice to gain that winning consistency. They spike upon request here, too -- ask for two parts dark rum on the rocks topped off with horchata. The sugars of the rum are subsumed within the rice-and-cinnamon mosaic, the alcohol dancing on the edges. They've also done a horchata and vanillainfused tequila cocktail. To find the horchata at (1301 N. Fifth St.), look next to the cash register, at the end of the cafeteria-like line where your tacos are assembled. The horchata -- rice, water, a small amount of whole milk and a faint dusting of powdered cinnamon that quickly settles -- is light, splashing together nicely with bites of rich, fatty beef cheek tacos. At South Philly's (951 Wolf St.), the horchata sits in a 5-gal- lon jug in front of the cash register, its three thick bands of glass giving the impression of a mini barrel. "People come in here and they stare and they say, `What's that?'" says owner Luz Jimenez. (He converts them by offering samples.) Making the horchata is "a process," one Jimenez happily takes to. "That's why people who love it come here -- they don't want to make it at home." There's a whisper of cinnamon (he blends in whole sticks with the rice) that plays elusively with his restrained use of vanilla extract -- "just a little." It's neither too thick nor too heavy. "No one wants to feel full right away," says Jimenez of his light version. "That's especially not the point with horchata." There are horchata traditions that extend outside of Mexico, too. Guatemalan-born Alvarez of (527 Fairmount Ave.) scratchmakes horchata in line with how it's served in his native Guatemala. Rather than just let uncooked rice soak, he gives it a light toast ahead of an overnight steeping. Then, he rinses it several times, dries it and grinds it into a fine powder, rendering a clean, refreshing end product flavored with powdered cinnamon. You might swear there's vanilla in there, but it's actually the toasted flavor that the's culprit. For a nearly dessert-like experience, visit Venicio Guerra's shoeboxsize (11 E. Moreland Ave.) in Hatboro. They make horchata from scratch roughly every other day, combining best-ofthe-best canela with soaked-overnight rice and then blending. Sweet condensed milk (no whole here), a dash of vanilla and sugar make for quite the sweet horchata, pushing the spicier cinnamon notes to the background. Having multiple glasses can catch up with you, especially if you're eating something rich like cemitas (Pueblan sandwiches) -- but then again, drinking a light dessert is never a bad thing. (email@example.com) WE DELIVER FOLLOW US ON TWITTER DivanTurkish and Caf�fulya Siblings Ilker and Fulya (Martinis, Cocktails, Glass of Wine and Beer for just $3.75) says food critic Craig Laban BYOB 5:30 - 7:30pm Friday & Saturday. $10 corking fee with this ad 918 South 22nd Street (corner of Carpenter & 22nd Street) Philadelphia, PA 19146 - 215.545.5790 � 215.545.5792 We Deliver river to river Manton Street to Spring Garden VISIT DIVANTURKISHKITCHEN.COM FOR FURTHER DETAILS Caf� Fulya . "BEST OMELETTES" All Day Breakfast. VOTED ONE OF PHILLY'S TOP TEN BRUNCH PLACES! 2 Course Lunch Special $8.50. Best Baklava In Town Made Fresh Daily. 95% Vegetarian Dishes. Homemade Turkish Pastries 727 S. 2nd STREET PHILADELPHIA, PA 19147. 267.909.9937. CAFEFULYA.COM. firstname.lastname@example.org with this ad 2201 SOUTH ST. PHILADELPHIA, PA 215.732.7878 COZY, ECLECTIC AND FOOD THAT WILL THRILL YOUR SENSES ... PRIVATE PARTIES . EVENTS BYO Wine Wednesday nights ACOUSTIC OPEN MIC NIGHT at The Playground upstairs at L2 Every Tuesday at 9pm. Everyone welcome TUE-THU 5:30PM-10PM/FRI 5:30PM-11PM SAT 5:30PM-11PM CLOSED SUNDAYS & MONDAYS Authentic Italian food, the freshest ingredients, and simple preparation are the essence of our restaurant. Noteworthy selection of custom cocktails and quality wines Girasole is proud to have been awarded one of the 1,000 BEST Italian restaurants in America, and recognized for Excellence in 2010 by ZAGAT. PHILADELPHIA 1410 Pine Street at the Symphony House 215.732.2728 www.girasolephilly.com ATLANTIC CITY 3108 Pacific Avenue 609.345.5554 www.girasoleac.com YO! COME ENJOY HEALTHY MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE $33. FOUR-COURSE DINNER FOR TWO, EVERYDAY AFTER 5 PM 509 SOUTH STREET, PHILADELPHIA 215-925-3026 FRESH, AUTHENTIC, MOUTHWATERING MEDITTERANEAN CUISINE WILL HAVE YOUR PALATE DANCING FROM GREEK SHRIMP TO MUSSELS, LAMB CHOPS TO KABOBS, MOUSAKA TO SPANAKOPITA, HUMMUS TO STUFFED PEPPERS VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN SOUTH STREET SOUVLAKI Our 30th Year on South Street ticket | 1300 E. Tuplehocken St., 1-3 p.m. (opens June 6) 11th and Tasker streets, 3-7 p.m. (opens in late May) 36th and Walnut streets, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. (opened May 4) Saul Agricultural High School, 7100 Henry Ave., 2-5 p.m. (opens in early June) Midvale and Ridge avenues, 3-7 p.m. (opens in late May) 40th and Walnut streets, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. (opens August 23) 6026 Germantown Ave., 2-6 p.m. (opens in late May) Broad and Ritner streets in front of the Fels Center, 2-7 p.m. (opens in June) 29th and Wharton streets in front of Peace Plaza, 1-5 p.m. (opens in June) 22nd and Tasker streets, 2-6 p.m. (opens in late May) On Cecil B. Moore Avenue between Broad and 13th streets, 2-6 p.m. (opens in late May) 43rd Street and Baltimore Avenue, 3-7 p.m. (opens June 2) 22nd Street and Fairmount Avenue, 3-7 p.m. (opened May 5) W. Susquehanna Avenue and Howard Street, 2-6 p.m. (opens in June) Oxford Circle Mennonite Church, 900 E. Howell St., 2-6 p.m. (opens June 9) Frankford Avenue and East Palmer Street, 2-6 p.m. (opens in early June) 43rd Street and Baltimore Avenue, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (year-round) 23rd and Pine streets, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. (year-round) Lancaster and City avenues, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. (opens May 21) Municipal Lot 7, Lancaster and Morris avenues, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. (opened April 30) 72nd Street and Ogontz Avenue, 2-6 p.m. (opens in early June) Lutheran Theological Seminary Plaza, Germantown Avenue and Allen Lane, 3-7 p.m. (opens in late May) 18th and Walnut streets, 10 a.m.-1 p.m. (opens in late May) On Passyunk Avenue off South Street, just east of Fifth Street, 2:307 p.m. (opens in late May) The Schuylkill Center for Environmental Education, Port Royal and Hagy's Mill roads, 2-6 p.m. (opens in late May) Belmont Avenue and St. Asaph's Road, 3-7 p.m. (opens in June) 10th and Chestnut streets, 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. (opens in late May) 16th Street between Market Street and JFK Boulevard, 2:30-6:30 p.m. (year-round) Winston Road between Germantown Avenue and Mermaid Lane, 9:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. (opened April 30) 18th and Walnut streets, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (year-round) Across from Swarthmore Co-op at Dartmouth and Lafayette avenues, 9:30 am.-1:30 p.m. (opens in late May) 2501 E. Cumberland St., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (opens May 28) 27th Street and Girard Avenue (northwest corner), 10 a.m.-1 p.m. (check westgirardcc.org for opening info) Broad and South streets, 2-7 p.m. (opens in late May) Chew Avenue and Johnson Street, 2-6 p.m. (opens in late June) 52nd Street and Haverford Avenue, 1-5 p.m. (opens in early July) 25th and Spruce streets, 3-7 p.m. (opens in late May) Oakmont Municipal Parking Lot, 2419 W. Darby Road, Havertown, 3-7 p.m. (opens May 18) 51st and Chester streets, 4:30-7 p.m. (opens May 26) 2501 E. Cumberland St., 2-7 p.m. (opens May 26) Second and Lombard streets, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (opened May 1) Moyamensing Avenue and Morris Street, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. (opening June 5) 52nd Street and Haverford Avenue, 1-5 p.m. (opens in early July) ticket 943 S. Ninth St., 215-925-0900, twitter. com/943byob. A new Argentine/Italian BYOB in the Italian Market's Ninth Street corridor. 637 N. Third St., 215-6276711. The atmosphere here is homey and welcoming; so, too, are its kindly bartenders. 2300 Market St., 215-567-7080, artinstitutes.edu/ philadelphia. A private college that offers degrees in the arts, including culinary and baking programs. 4494 Route 130, Burlington Township, N.J., 609-3873700, crabeatery.com. Open since 1961, this N.J. crab house serves everything from Dungeness to soft crabs, with all-you-can-eat options. 610-4443842, bvwinetrail.com. Seven Chester County wineries have joined forces for an easy yearround driving tour. 2951 Market St., 215387-4787, thepubin30thstreetstation.com. Stop in for a nosh before you catch your train. 918 S. 22nd St., 215-545-5790, divanturkishkitchen.com. When it comes to laid-back comfort and straightforward flavors, siblings Ilker and Fulya Ugur have hit on a formula that serves them well in this rapidly changing part of town. 7136 Germantown Ave., 215-242-MOON, earthbreadbrewery.com. Enough kettles and urns to serve up a changing roster of four housemade beers at a time. 123 S. 23rd St., 215567-2542, erawanphilly.com. What pushes this cuisine over the edge is the presence of crispy rice in entr�es, which gives a texture that may send your mind away to the Laotian side of the Mekong River. 306 Market St., 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com. Fork's pioneering farm-to-table mentality adds an artisanal edge with hand-crafted pasta, bread, charcuterie and smoked fish. 1617 John F. Kennedy Blvd., No. 900, 215-575-0444, thefoodtrust. org. Hosts the Headhouse Farmers Market as well as providing nutrition programs for the community. 1917 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-FUEL; 1225 Walnut St., 215-922-FUEL, fuelphilly. com. After a few bites at Rocco Cima's health- conscious spots, it's clear this Q102 personality knows how to rock more than one kind of mixer. 1410 Pine St., 215-732-2728, girasolephilly.com. Mediterranean fare smack dab in the center of the city. 2229 Grays Ferry Ave., 215893-9580, gracetavern.com. Vintage beauty aside, Grace offers an impressive beer selection and delectable grub. 1525 South St., 215-7351116, jetwinebar.com. Extensive wine list in a cool, sleek space. 1212 S. Broad St., 215-468-8800, culinaryarts.edu. Offering courses in professional cooking, restaurant management and more. 263 S. 15th St., 215-5454101, josepistolas.com. A burrito bar for the fancy-beer-swilling crowd. 1001 Spruce St., 215-922-1773, kanellarestaurant.com. Authentic Cypriot fare from chef Konstantinos Pitsillides. 848 S. Second St., 267-687-1426, kennettrestaurant.com. This neighborhood restaurant is capable of doing everything -- and doing it well. 541 E. Girard Ave., 215-7391700, kraftworkbar.com. Kraftwork is a serious beer bar offering a lineup of 24 all-draft craft options, including one on cask. 2201 South St., 215-732-7878. A cozy spot for a leisurely meal amid the hustle-bustle of South Street. 1326 Spruce St., 215546-0180; 7324 Oxford Ave., 215-722-8800; 185 Route 70, Medford, N.J., 609-654-7772, makimanonline.com. These three outposts of Makiman offer Japanese fare in a casual setting. 1211 Walnut St., 215-238-1833, marabellameatballco.com. Grab lunch or dinner in the shop, or order from Marabella's diverse 'ball-based catering menu. 201 Jefferson St., Bala Cynwyd, Pa., 610-668-1712. A neighborhood spot with an old-school Italian vibe. 1511 Locust St., 215732-5797, misconduct-tavern.com. A great go-to sports-fan spot with plenty of HD TVs and daily specials. 264 S. 16th St., 215-5457005, monkscafe.com. A bustling Belgian bistro that offers a staggering selection of international beers. 1670 Baltimore Pike, Avondale, Pa., 610-268-6962, natural-by-nature.com. Produces Natural By Nature-brand grass-fed dairy products like organic milk and whipped cream. 40-44 Snyder Ave., 215-339-1986, newsuperkingbuffet.com. Offering a Chinese all-you-can-eat buffet and a la carte menus for lunch and dinner. 763 S. Eighth St., 215-928-9500, palomafinedining.com. Mexican fine dining in the heart of Bella Vista. 1237 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-1546, patskingofsteaks.com. Welcome to the Cheesesteak Capital of the Universe. Order wisely. 124 Beaver Valley Road, Chadds Ford, Pa., 610-459-0808, pennswoodswinery.com. This Pennsylvania winemaker's motto: "Think globally. Drink locally." | 123 Chestnut St., 215733-0300, ploughstars.com. Traditional Irish fare and plentiful drink specials in Old City. 1050 N. Hancock St., 215-964-9009, pytphilly.com. Tommy Up's burger lounge/adultshake shack for the NoLibs glitterati. 12th and Arch Streets, 215-922-2317, readingterminalmarket.org. Featuring more than 80 stalls and shops, Reading Terminal Market dates back to 1892 when the Reading Railroad commissioned a food bazaar. A century later, the market continues to exhibit old and new culinary delights. 2201 Christian St., 215-732-3429, thesidecarbar.com. Miller High Life specials coexist with a craft brew-leaning draft selection and smarter-than-your-average bar eats. 1200 Market St., 215-231-7300, loewshotels.com. A swanky bar inside a towering hotel, featuring fresh seafood and inventive cocktails. 509 South St., 215-925-3026. Philadelphia's oldest Greek establishment features award-winning gyros served alongside a tasty melange of veggies with yogurt sauce.