Cityguide, 2011 - 2012
Published by Philadelphia City Paper, 2011.
C I T Y PA P E R ' S G U I D E T O P H I L A D E L P H I A 2011-2012 EST 1930 If You Went To The Other Guy, You Made A Misteak!!! PAT'S KING OF 9th & PASSYUNK AVE. STEAKS EST 1930 Original Home of the $1,999 Special! Don't be fooleD by imitation offers! fooleD TILE BACKSPLASH SPECIAL!!! $999. Receive up to 30SF of Tile Backsplash Including Installation 00 for (Limited Time O er. Restrictions may apply.) Over 25 beautiful custom designs to choose from! This incredible price includes the following: direcT imporTer by our Customers! Over 4500 Slabs Over 400 Colors! Visit us today and our Professionally Trained Team will help you choose the Best Materials and Designs for your home. LIC# PA040713 LOVED e O cial Marble & Granite Sponsor of: 201 West Church Road | King Of Prussia, PA 19406 (Entrance off of Henderson Road) 866.307.6200 | 610.994.2222 | www.ColonialMarble.net LETTER FROM THE EDITOR WHEN YOU'RE HERE, YOU'RE FAMILY. This publication by the Philadelphia City Paper staff is our way of offering welcome to all new transplants as well as those in search of a richer Philadelphia experience. And to all the Philly newbies out there, I say: I am one of you! Sort of. After growing up an hour away, I moved to Philly for college (go Hawks!), then left for a long stretch of nomadic wanderings before returning two-plus years ago. So twice I've had the pleasure of getting acquainted with this metropolis, the sixth-biggest city in the U.S., home to clich�s about cheesesteaks (yes, try one) and the founding spot of, well, the nation itself. As a way to introduce you to Philly and encourage you to discover its riches, City Guide has laid it all out for you in two distinct sections. "The Basics" provides a primer -- a cheat sheet, if you will. In these short articles we provide some background on the Philly experience (for example, why the liquor laws here are so weird), get you up to speed on some of its characters and events (enterprising restaurateurs, interesting festivals), and provide some outing suggestions (for finding fresh produce, or getting exercise on the Schuylkill River Trail). "The Hoods" introduces all 17-plus Philly neighborhoods, comprising a motley variety of styles, people and architecture. For each we offer an introduction (complete with rough borders, so you don't accidentally call Fishtown Kensington or vice versa), a list of quick-hit hot spots you can't miss if you're in town, information on neighborhood associations and City Council representation, plus carefully curated listings on all sorts of establishments and organizations worth checking out. Explore the landscape. Enjoy the idiosyncrasies. We hope you'll stay a while. Theresa Everline Editor in Chief, Philadelphia City Paper PUBLISHER Nancy Stuski EDITOR IN CHIEF Theresa Everline CREATIVE DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR Carolyn Huckabay BAJ Design, bajdesign.com PHOTOGRAPHER Neal Santos CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Darren Ankrom, Meg Augustin, Diana Campeggio, Felicia D'Ambrosio, Clare Foran, Drew Lazor, Kelsey McGlynn, Khoury Johnson, Josh Middleton, Grace Ortelere, Holly Otterbein, Cassie Owens, Patrick Rapa, Eric Schuman, Christopher Seybert, Isaiah Thompson, Brian Wilensky, Dylan Williams PRODUCTION MANAGER Michael Polimeno ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Reseca Peskin CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS Alyssa Grenning, Evan M. Lopez, Irving Navarro, Alicia Solsman ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Eileen Pursley SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Nick Cavanaugh, Kevin Gallagher, Sharon MacWilliams, Stephan Sitzai BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Nicholas Forte ACCOUNT MANAGERS Alexis Pierce Sara Carano, Chris Scartelli, Donald Snyder OFFICE COORDINATOR CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Mark Burkert cover illustration by Alyssa Nassner 4 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 the 2 1st c entu ry LEARN A NEW LANGUAGE access free wi-fi DOWNLOAD SONY MUSIC EXAMINE DIGITAL COLLECTIONS read a Nobel Prize winner WATCH A QUIRKY CULT FILM write a business plan APPLY FOR JOBS ONLINE CHAT WITH FAMOUS AUTHORS ALL FOR FREE 950 54 A Free Library of Philadelphia card enables you to exercise your freedom to be informed. Sign up for one today. freelibrary.org TABLE OF CONTENTS OPENER 4 Letter from the Editor: When you're here, you're family. THE HOODS 38 39 43 The Complete Hoods Map Old City/Washington Square West Rittenhouse/Center City West Society Hill/South Street East The Gayborhood/Midtown Village Chinatown/Loft District Bella Vista/Queen Village Graduate Hospital/Grays Ferry/ South Street West South Philly East Passyunk/Italian Market Germantown/Mount Airy/Chestnut Hill West Philly/University City/Southwest Philly Fairmount/Art Museum Manayunk/Roxborough/East Falls Northern Liberties North Philly/Olney/Oak Lane The Northeast Port Fishington (Port Richmond/Fishtown/Kensington) THE BASICS 10 PHILADELPHIA The story so far (or: How we got over). 24 SEPTA/REGIONAL RAIL MAP 47 50 52 54 56 58 60 63 66 70 72 75 81 The inside track on our trains, buses and trolleys. 12 HALL MONITOR Watch the melodrama unfold in the weird world of Philly politics. 26 OUTWARD BOUND From downtown to upriver along the banks of the mighty Schuylkill. 14 BEER AND LOATHING What do you mean I can't buy beer at the grocery store? 27 VEGGING OUT Your guide to produce-hunting in the 215. 16 TWO WHEELS GOOD The unspoken dos and don'ts of biking in Philly. 28 THE EXHIBITIONISTS Tips on getting the most out of Philly's arts-centered First Fridays. 18 TAKING IT TO THE STREETS Forget independence -- Philly's festivals make a declaration of fun. 30 THE GETAWAYS A triptych of quick trips on a tank of gas or less. 20 OH, THE PLACES YOU'LL GO (TO EAT!) A tour of some of the best meal tickets in town. 33 OUT ON THE TOWN 34 FIELDERS' CHOICE You're here. You're queer. Let's do this. 82 84 22 STAGE WHISPERS A quick survey of Philly's most trusted music venues. Philly's full of good sports and boisterous fans. photo by Neal Santos ROLL SOME DICE WITH US Must be 21 or older to enter or gamble (18 or older for pari-mutuel wagering). Know When To Stop Before You Start.� �2011, Caesars License Company, LLC. G A M B L I N G P R O B L E M ? C A L L 1- 8 0 0 - G A M B L E R . THE BASICS WELCOME TO PHILLY location Vine Street Expressway photo by Neal Santos THE BASICS words by Patrick Rapa & Brian Howard illustrations by Alyssa Nassner historical timeline PHILADELPHIA 6,000 years ago: Saga Genesis In the beginning, Adam and Eve galloped bareback around Pangaea on their Model T-Rexes, doing doughnuts and dropping babies. THE STORY SO FAR (OR: HOW WE GOT OVER) 1854 The Meat Up Up till this point, Philadelphia proper was simply the area between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers and Vine and South streets. During the act of consolidation, 28 surrounding townships, boroughs and districts were carefully selected and cobbled together to form the precise shape of a pork chop. 1682 Monarchy from the U.K. Step aside, Lenapeeps, Finnzies, Dutchwives and Swedeypies -- Penn scored a permission slip from Charles II to found the city and state for the glory of Mum England. The charter called for a "greene country towne" full of parks and trees. Philadelphians instead subdivided their lots and began gathering in unsanitary crowds in Old City, a tradition that continues to this day. 1799-1848 Follow the Leader Competition wasn't exactly stiff for famous firsts back in the post-Independence days. And that's the way Philly liked it. We had the nation's first water works, fine arts promotion society, daily newspaper, art institution, carbonated water, insurance company, public bank, abolition act, penny newspaper, use of gas as an illuminant, regular comics paper and more. Philadelphia also created America's first laurels, then sat on them. 1682 1706 1774 1793 1799 1854 Pre-Colonial: Shackamaxed Out Before there was a Philadelphia, there was a Shackamaxon. A Lenni Lenape Indian village stood in the place we now call Kensington, and the residents hunted, gathered, farmed and buried souvenir arrowheads. They never heard of Jesus or white people until William Penn showed up with a treaty and a quill. Blah blah blah. You can visit the Lenape today in Oklahoma. 1706-1790 Ben Franklin, Founding Philanderer Philly's patron saint started the New World's first newspaper, hospital and library, invented the lightning rod, the iron furnace stove, odometer and bifocals. A renowned carouser, he also invented the pickup line: Well done is better than well said, now get thee wench into my bed. 1793 And It Was All Yellow Fever Already wildly unpopular, mosquitoes suffered a PR nightmare after a few people they landed on, like only 5,000, allegedly got a touch of yellow fever, barfed up a couple blood clots and died a little bit. Retaliatory swatting claimed untold millions. 1774-1781 Down with the King After years of unrepped taxes and flavorless food -- not to mention the emotional toll -- we were ready to just delete Britain from Friendster and move on, but of course there had to be drama. The Revolutionary War happened and it was this whole big thing. Philly was the epicenter for colonial dissent, hosting two Continental Congresses (a record!) and vanity-pressing Common Sense, the Declaration and the Constitution. After the war, we were the capital of the United States, until we got bored of it. 1981 and 1985 A Series of Unfortunate Events The moments that continue to define and haunt modern Philadelphia are two instances of violence involving AfricanAmericans and the police. On a December day in 1981, fate's crossroads were at 13th and Locust; so were Mumia Abu-Jamal and officer Daniel Faulkner. In 1985, Mayor Wilson Goode and the PPD made the curious decision to drop a bomb on the Osage Avenue compound of anarchoprimitivist organization MOVE. Since then, race relations have been great and our cops are like big cuddly teddy bears with guns. Early 1900s Keystone Cops Once the most important city in the universe, Philadelphia started getting a rep for political corruption and resistance to change. The mob was everywhere, Prohibition was openly mocked and our cops were crookeder than our hockey players' noses. A real live brigadier general, one Smedley Butler was brought in to clean up the town by militarizing the police force and declaring war on speakeasies and hookers. Dude lasted about a week. Today: Tomorrow's Child The Phillies are awesome. The Flyers and Eagles are always good. The Sixers are still around, probably. People seem to like the soccer team. It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia is the best show on TV. The Roots are the best band on TV. Everybody just runs down the street at top speed, high-fiving each other and saying, "You are a beautiful human being and there's nothing I wouldn't do for you." 1876 1900 1950 1973 1981 1992 2008 2011 1876 New Century Schoolbook Like some overcompensating nouveauriche douchebag, the U.S. threw itself a massive 100th birthday rager -- the Centennial International Exposition! The first World's Fair! -- in Fairmount Park. We all gazed at modern marvels and, when everyone finally went home, we left some of the buildings standing cuz everybody loves a party but nobody wants to clean up. 2008 Ballers Once More Concluding a 25-year sports championship drought that had steadily eroded the city's self-esteem, the Phillies won the World Series. Only a few cars got flipped over and the fires were few and manageable. 1973-83 You Mad? Philadelphia was the toast of the sports world. The Sixers and Flyers were champs twice, the Phillies, Eagles and Rocky all took home hardware. Around the same time, Gamble and Huff were putting Philly soul and funk on the national stage. It was a good time to be alive. Post-WWII Boom and Gloom Philly's population peaked at more than 2 million in 1950 and everybody was polite and had polio. Then came white flight: Caucasians flocked to the suburbs, led by Connie Mack's Philadelphia A's, who ran all the way to Kansas City. 1992 Mayor Ed In 1991, Ed Rendell, a nondescript former DA, made his second run for mayor, this time defeating Frank "billy club in my cummerbund" Rizzo, who by that time was deceased. Ed's infamous appetite is considered the driving factor behind Philadelphia's economic turnaround, which saw once-decrepit Center City blossom into one huge restaurant district. He went on to become governor, chairman of the DNC and a recurring figure on Neanderthal sports talk shows. THE BASICS words by Holly Otterbein photo by Neal Santos HALL MONITOR Tuning in to city politics for the first time is a bit like jumping into a soap opera. At first, the decadesin-the-making storylines seem uninteresting and impossible to grasp -- but keep watching, and suddenly, themes emerge! Stories twist and turn and collapse in on themselves! Characters die, and then come back from the grave! Seriously. And this November's election, which you're lucky to be just in time for, is a microcosm of this city's dramatic -- and just plain weird -- political scene. Take, for instance, the abundance of wacky characters. Karen Brown, who just ran for Democratic Councilperson at the beginning of this year, is now running for mayor as a Republican in November's election. She somehow won the party's support, and beat a longtime Republican in this year's primary race. Fun, right? Then there's the fact that, for a while, former Democratic Mayor John Street -- whose office was bugged by the FBI during his eight-year 12 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 good government WATCH THE MELODRAMA UNFOLD IN THE WEIRD WORLD OF PHILLY POLITICS. tenure -- was toying with idea of running as an Independent against Democratic Mayor Michael Nutter. Funner yet: During this year's primary, Street's brother Milton -- who was fresh out of jail for tax evasion -- ran against Nutter. He lost, but somehow managed to get 24 percent of the vote. Speaking of jailbirds, famous homeless activist Cheri Honkala is running for sheriff on the Green Party ticket in November. She has been arrested dozens of times, and has a radical plan to suspend all sheriff's sales if elected. Another thing to know about November's election: It won't matter nearly as much as the one in May 2011 did. That's because Democrats outnumber Republicans seven to one in Philadelphia, so the real elections are the primaries. Still, a few races will be competitive this fall: In particular, watch the bout for city commissioner and councilperson at-large (on the Republican side). You should also keep tabs on city politicians because they have a hand in everything -- from how much of your paycheck goes to taxes to how many sick days you can take each year to whether you can open a business on that sweet plot of land you just bought. Plus, they're surprisingly accessible. For better or worse, Philly politicians have been known to respond to small, but vocal, minorities. City Paper's news blog, The Naked City, keeps our leaders accountable. Join the conversation at citypaper.net/nakedcity. 151 Kings Highway East Haddonfield, NJ 08033 (856) 795-0424 www.JayWestBridal.com THE BASICS words by Isaiah Thompson photo by Neal Santos BEER AND LOATHING WHAT DO YOU MEAN I CAN'T BUY BEER AT THE GROCERY STORE? "Are you ready to take part in a civil disobedience demonstration against the un-American Pennsylvania booze sale monopoly law that could get you fined or even taken to jail?" So asked Lew Bryson recently on his blog, noplcb. blogspot.com, in reference to a push by some state Republicans to privatize Pennsylvania's liquor industry, which is now a monopoly controlled by the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board. Who are these wise men and women in whom the power to decide what and for how much we can drink has been vested? Ph.D.s in alcoholic economics, perhaps? No, they're mostly a bunch of politically connected patronage hacks, and for that very reason unlikely to be ousted anytime soon from their boozy thrones. (Note: So inspired were these patronage princes that the PLCB recently introduced "wine kiosks" at a few supermarkets. The kiosks broke down, and the system was put into indefinite suspension. Go PA!) 14 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 booze clues There might be some kind of alcohol access revolution coming our way, but until then you're stuck with the present state of things: Wine and liquor can be purchased only in state stores, widely noted for their crappy hours, unsurprising selections and surprisingly not-cheaper-thanJersey prices. And beer may be purchased only from licensed distributors and only by the case -- unless you buy it second-hand, at a deli or bar, for about double the distributors' prices. Is there a way to beat the system? Yes, but it's illegal and difficult to pull off without a car. One way or another, you're gonna pay the price of living in Pennsylvania, so you might as well strategize. Center City-wise, there are plenty of delis that sell beer, but for the best selection, head to boutique suds shops like Beer Heaven (1100 S. Columbus Blvd., Suite 23, 215-271-5248) or The Foodery (837 N. Second St., 215-238-6077; 324 S. 10th St., 215-928-1111, fooderybeer.com), which let you mix-a-six from tons of individually sold beers, local and otherwise. Hawthornes (738 S. 11th St., 215-627-3012, hawthornecafe.com) even has a growler list. But be forewarned: The prices ain't low. For the individual clever enough to figure out a way to transport a case of beer, Bella Vista Beer Distributors (755 S. 11th St., 215-627-6465, bellavistabeverage.com) boasts an unusually wide selection, including plenty of Belgians and an entire room full of seasonals. Wine-lovers will do well to visit the Reading Terminal Market's Blue Mountain Wine (51 N. 12th St., 215-238-9022, bluemountainwine. com) or the back room of Garces Trading Co. (1111 Locust St., 215-574-1099, garcestradingcompany. com), which the noted chef is, for some reason, allowed to operate independently. For those less interested in d�cor, Wine & Spirits state stores (finewineandgoodspirits.com) might do the trick. THE BASICS words by Patrick Rapa photo by Neal Santos TWO WHEELS GOOD THE UNSPOKEN DOS AND DON'TS OF BIKING IN PHILLY. Like swimming and French kissing, you can't really be taught how to bike the streets of Philadelphia. You just gotta muster the courage, limber up and go for it. That said, you could pick up a few pointers from an elder bikesman like myself, somebody who's loved and lost (teeth) on the half-mean streets of this city. Relax: More designated lanes and paths pop up every day, and you only have to share most of them with unchecked cabbies, entitled cheapskate churchgoers, kneeling buses, smug joggers taking their pulse every 10 feet and your fellow two-wheeled friends who rarely make eye contact. Lock up: There are plenty of racks, signs and headless parking meters to which you can (double) U-lock your bike. Just give it a tug first. If you can lift the lamppost right out of the pavement, move on. And, seriously, secure both tires. Lighten up: Don't get a mountain bike, or a hybrid, which is really just a less ridiculous16 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 cycle city looking mountain bike. You want a road bike, something lightweight and maneuverable. You'll thank me when you're scaling Manayunk or lugging it up three flights of stairs. You might also be interested in a low-maintenance fixed-gear biked. See if you can be the first person with a fixie who shuts up about it. Get smart: Don't hang anything from your handlebars, unless it's super secure. I had a bag swing into my front spokes at Eighth and Market and I flipped forward, hard, breaking an arm and a tooth. Somebody came running out of the Burger King with napkins to for my bleeding face. They smelled delicious. Beware of ghosts: Philly's streets are haunted by ancient terrors. Trolley tracks should be crossed only at right-ish angles and avoided in slippery conditions. Cobblestones can warp your wheels. Horse-drawn carriages like to drop poop speed bumps throughout Old City. Protect yourself: Wear a helmet. Tuck in your pant cuffs. Avoid storm drains, high curbs and low potholes -- they're murder on your spokes and genitals. Pay attention: Until you've learned how to interpret the vehicular body language of SEPTA buses, delivery trucks and lost tourists in rental SUVs, consider stopping at stop signs and red lights. Crazy, right? Also, avoid riding against traffic or between things that might suddenly move and squish you. And don't bike with your headphones on. You make me nervous when you do that. Don't trust cars: They fail to signal, they swing open doors in your path, they honk, they think bikes don't belong on the road. Drivers are horrible monsters. Don't trust pedestrians: They don't trust you. And for good reason. For information on biking in Philadelphia, visit bicyclecoalition.org. HAN D C R A F T E D C O M F O RT AND STYLE A R CH O N � SAT 8 ~M �6 12TH Featured product: Krauss Bicycles (made in Philadelphia) Brooks England, Ltd (made in England) FRE SH & LO & SU �5 N9 & CAL RM VE IN A LM RY DA ARKET.OR G~ Purveryor of Fine Bicycles to the Gentry & the Poverty Stricken Too WWW.VOLPECYCLES.COM 115 SOUTH 22nd STREET BETWEEN SANSOM AND CHESTNUT. Park for $4 at 12th & Filbert garage with $10 purchase and validation from any merchant. Limit 2 hours. (215) 564-2100 15 -9 22 -231 7~ Y ~ READ E E IN GT 2 THE BASICS words by Holly Otterbein photos by Neal Santos FORGET INDEPENDENCE -- PHILLY'S FESTIVALS MAKE A DECLARATION OF FUN. Mummers Parade One of the weirdest things about Philadelphia is the way it celebrates New Year's Day. Hundreds of men -- many of them blue-collared workers from South Philly and Fishtown -- dress up in feathered, beaded and bedazzled costumes so flamboyant, Cher would blush to look at them. They then prance up Broad Street, sing, show off their floats and perform elaborate skits, all with their proud kids and wives in tow. So much for sauerkraut. Jan. 1, phillymummers.com. Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby Don't confuse the Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby for a race. It's not the team that finishes first that wins, but the one that gets there looking the best. That can mean anything from cruising on a Ghostbusters-themed tricycle to riding a metallic dragon on wheels while donning Amish zombie costumes. Also, the derby usually coincides with the Trenton Avenue Arts Festival, the biggest arts 18 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 TAKING IT TO THE STREETS sale in Kenzo. So, if you can't make your own piece of human-powered folk art, you can probably buy someone else's. Mid-May, kinetickensington.com. Art Star Craft Bazaar In 2003, Erin Waxman and Megan Brewster, owners of the Art Star Gallery & Boutique, founded what is now one of the country's most beloved crafting events (take that, Brooklyn). The Art Star Craft Bazaar features more than 140 vendors, live music and food over two days. And now all those hip New Yorkers drive two hours down I-95 just to get to it. Late May, artstarcraftbazaar.com. Philly Beer Week Its name may sound like an ill-conceived frat game, but Philly Beer Week is a race to develop wet brain only if you want it to be. The festival crams hundreds of beer tastings, boozy brunches, lectures and meet-the-brewer events into 10 serious days. It can be a challenge to get through them. Here's some advice: Don't drink every heady brew you meet, take a day off, and drink lots of water. Early June, phillybeerweek.org. Odunde Festival Celebrating the new year once every 12 months isn't enough for Philly. Each June, we party for the second time around, just like Nigeria's Yoruba population does. ("Odunde" means "Happy New Year" in Yoruba.) A crowd of people saunters down South Street, throws flowers and fruit into the Schuylkill River, and then heads back to the main base for dance, theater and live music. This African festival also features great eats from Ghana, Nigeria, Senegal and Guinea -- places you likely won't be visiting soon, so get your fill now. Mid-June, odundeinc.org. West Oak Lane Jazz & Arts Festival For three sparkling days in June, North Philly feels an awful lot like N'awlins. A Mardi Grasthemed parade, a Grand Marshal, more than 40 the big events big bands, jazz trios, jazz duos and jazz solos, plus a craft marketplace to tie it all up into a pretty bow -- the West Oak Lane Jazz & Arts Festival is an honorable tribute to the Big Easy. Best of all, there's a free citywide shuttle service schlepping people to and fro the fest -- so let the good times roll. Late June, westoaklanefestival.com. Live Arts Festival & Philly Fringe Think of the Live Arts Festival as your exceedingly picky friend and Philly Fringe as the co-worker who'll date anyone. The metaphor isn't intended to disrespect the concurrent, 16-day performing arts bonanzas -- it just means that Live Arts presents a dozen-ish curated, cream-of-the-crop, take-home-to Mom shows from around the world, and Philly Fringe features nearly 200 new, local artists who don't go through a selection process. The latter is still jammed with talent, and it's proof that our city doesn't only love you when you're hot. Sept. 2-17, livearts-fringe.org. Philly Naked Bike Ride Some argue that Naked Bike Rides do more harm than good, further alienating bike moderates and making a worthy transportation method look like a liberals-only, wackadoodle throw-down. We at City Paper respectfully disagree. Last year's Naked Bike Ride not only succeeded in shredding body image expectations and displaying how vulnerable bikers are, but perhaps more importantly, it was also a blast. Like a modernday Feast of Fools, its joy was in briefly, safely suspending that most sacred social norm and, just for once, doing what our inner primate would. Sept. 4, phillynakedbikeride.org. Bloktoberfest You'd think that by the end of summer, Philly would be sick of block parties. Turns out that food, beer, neighbors and music are just too simple and sweet a formula to give up. In early October, this block-party-on-steroids goes down in the GradHo neighborhood, with autumnal craft brews, the city's best food trucks, a 5K run and plenty of bands to keep you entertained. The weather is usually perfect, so enjoy it. Early October, bloktoberfestphilly.com. Philadelphia Film Festival The Philadelphia Film Festival was one of the first places anyone saw The Sixth Sense. And Food, Inc. And Old Partner. Never heard of the last one? That's how a lot of films at the fest end up, but it doesn't mean they're not heart-wrenching, hilarious and well worth your time (like Old Partner turned out to be). Go to find the unappreciated treasures as well as the next big thing. And say happy birthday when you're there: The Philadelphia Film Festival is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Mid-October, filmadelphia.org. CITYPAPER.NET 19 THE BASICS words by Felicia D'Ambrosio photos by Neal Santos OH, THE PLACES YOU'LL GO (TO EAT!) A TOUR OF SOME OF THE BEST MEAL TICKETS IN TOWN. In a perfect world, people would be able to eat out as often as they pleased. A neatly set table, smiling service, music to set the mood -- dining out is a little luxury few want to resist. Over the last 20 years, Philly has been swept along on a wave of restaurant innovation, encompassing everything from elegant fine-dining palaces to humble holesin-the-wall, creating thousands of well-calibrated meals every day. Brunch could be considered the axis upon which the whole planet of dining out turns. It's the only meal where any class of food or beverage is fair game -- the more, the better. Since cooks and servers hate it, worthy operations that don't phone it in distinguish themselves. The years haven't dimmed the shine of Sabrina's (910 Christian St., 215- 574-1599, sabrinascafe.com), where the crowds wait with saintly patience for lofty, stuffed French toast. On the northern side of town, housemade scrapple, bacon, flatbreads 20 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 foodie nation and glorious pancakes mark Caf� Estelle (444 N. Fourth St., 215- 925-5080, cafeestelle.com) as a daytime staple. Speaking of scrapple, Amish breakfasts aren't complete without it at the Dutch Eating Place (Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch streets, readingterminalmarket.com), where a lack of buttons doesn't stop the bearded ringmaster from keeping the counter seated and the fresh-squeezed juice flowing. If you're looking for something higher-end, nothing short of true love will do for a visit to Lacroix (210 W. Rittenhouse Square, 215-790-2533, lacroixrestaurant.com), a day-tonight destination hosting a legendarily lavish, $100-a-head Sunday brunch culminating in a chocolate fountain. Decadent evenings equally lush in d�cor (vegetable chic) and hyperlocal ingredients start at Talula's Garden (210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787, talulasgarden. com), a new entry from farm-to-table queen Aimee Olexy and king-daddy restaurateur Stephen Starr, master of the grub cartel that spawned Philadelphia's other starry son, Jose Garces. The Iron Chef's intimate Basque-inspired Tinto (114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant. com) is the best of a portfolio of exciting restaurants; the same goes for Marc Vetri's Am�s (412 S. 13th St., 215-732-2647, amisphilly.com), the celebrated chef's most affordable and rustic venture. Adventuresome palates are rewarded by the exotic flavor vocabulary of chef Mike Solomonov, who turns pristine ingredients into precise, modern Isreali plates at Zahav (237 St. James Pl., 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com). Corkage? What's that? Philadelphia boasts an entire category of fine-ish dining unknown in other cities: the BYOB, which welcome guests to tote their own Kendall-Jackson, Chateau Chichi, beer, or even hard liquor to spike house-provided mixers. There are too many great BYOs to list here; but of the dozens, the fresh octopus, creamy baba ganouj and whole fish at the original Dmitri's (795 S. Third St., 215-625-0556) and the gutsy Italian of Peter McAndrew's Modo Mio (161 W. Girard Ave., 215-203-8707) stand out. Indian, Thai, Korean and Szechuan cuisines have seen an explosion of popularity in recent years. Creamy makhani chicken and fiery lamb vindaloo star at Ekta (250 E. Girard Ave., 215-426-2277, ektaindianrestaurant.com), a BYO that also delivers all over the city. Similarly, Circles (1514 Tasker St., 267-687-1778, circlesnewbold.com), home of luscious crab fried rice and pad see eew, has just added a modest dining room. Shatteringly crisp Korean fried chicken wings are worth the trip to Olney and Caf� Soho (468 W. Cheltenham Ave., 215-224-6800); you can order them almost as hot as Han Chiang's face-melting fare at Han Dynasty (108 Chestnut St., 215-922-1888, handynasty.net). The sharp-tongued Chiang's dan dan noodles, dumplings in chili oil and crispy pork intestines have founded an obsessive, addicted following. Hate the word gastropub if you must, but there's no denying NoLibs stalwart Standard Tap (901 N. Second St., 215- 238-0630, standardtap. com) started it all. In fine weather, their upstairs deck remains the prime spot to devour seasonal, ever-changing classics paired with all-local draft beer. Stack their burger up against the Royal Tavern's (937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694, royaltavern.com) brioche-wrapped beauty, but watch out for that long hot, 'cause she's a sparker. Capturing the same warm vibe is relative newcomer Kennett (848 S. Second St., 267-687-1426, kennettrestaurant.com), which adds a fierce cocktail selection to the expected superlative draft list, to accompany chef Brian Ricci's adept, veg-centric dishes. Just around the corner is Catahoula (775 S. Front St., 215- 271-9300, catahoularestaurant.com), home of the most authentic oyster po'boys, gumbo and hushpuppies Philly has seen in years, as well as a steal-of-a-deal Saturday kegs 'n' eggs special: $9 for an entr�e, side and draft brew, which bring us back to where we began, with brunch. Felicia D'Ambrosio contributes to City Paper's Meal Ticket food blog at citypaper.net/mealticket. CITYPAPER.NET 21 THE BASICS words and photo by Patrick Rapa STAGE WHISPERS A QUICK SURVEY OF PHILLY'S MOST TRUSTED MUSIC VENUES. Johnny Brenda's 1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johnnybrendas.com Telltale bookings: BC Camplight, Kurt Vile, Cults, Laura Marling. Beer: Good selection, several bars. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: JB's is the go-to 21+ indie-pop bar. You can dance if you want to. Plenty of places to escape the music and hang out, too. Danger Danger Gallery 5013 Baltimore Ave., dangerdangergallery.com Telltale bookings: Tickley Feather, Lost in the Trees, U.S. Girls. Beer: BYO, be cool about it. Sound: Surprisingly good, always loud. Sightlines: Good luck. Notes: This is basically a house-show venue gone legit. Some great punk, indie and experimental acts come through here before you hear about them. Lots of bands you'll never hear from again, too. The sound of West Philly. Trocadero 1003 Arch St., 215-922-6888, thetroc.com Telltale bookings: Man Man, Peter Bjorn and John, Yo La Tengo. Beer: In plastic cups, bars upstairs and down. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Mostly good. Notes: The Troc's a lovely old burlesque theater retrofitted for bigger 22 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 the sound of philadelphia Melissa Ferrick, Eels. Beer: In a glass. Sound: Very good. Sightlines: Great. Notes: Stages upstairs and downstairs put on shows by indie/ rock/folk/funk/world music/blues acts. The place is clean and friendly, and sometimes skews older/upscale. A satellite venue opened down in Wilmington, Del. Electric Factory 421 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, electricfactory.info Telltale bookings: Dinosaur Jr., Nas, Flogging Molly, The National Beer: Yeah, there's a big ol' balcony area for drinking. Sound: Not bad for a big, giant rock 'n' roll hangar. Sightlines: Very good. Notes: This is Philly's general-admission warehouse venue. Kung Fu Necktie 1250 N. Front St., kungfunecktie.com Telltale bookings: Bardo Pond, Japandroids, Crooked Fingers, Mr. Lif. Beer: Good. Sound: Good. Sightlines: You'll be fine. Notes: Tiny, friendly indie-rock bar in NoLibs. North Star 2639 Poplar St., 215-787-0488, northstarbar.com Telltale bookings: Black Landlord, Eugene Mirman, Ida Maria, Alien Architect. Beer: Always good, so meet up at the bar before the show. Sound: Good. Sightlines: Stake out a spot early, shorties. Notes: The last of the '90s indie-rock clubs, the North Star does the basics well: good beer, good music and a working-class d�cor that's half-spit, half-polish. The only rock club in Fairmount. all-ages general admission rock/punk/hip-hop shows. They pat you down at the door. TLA 334 South St., 215-922-1011, livenation.com Telltale bookings: The Mountain Goats, Childish Gambino, Gomez, They Might Be Giants. Beer: In plastic cups. Sound: Very good (although the pigpen bar area can get loud). Sightlines: Very good. Notes: A fine all-ages general-admission venue with a wide stage and calf-strengthening slanted floors. They pat you down at the door and chase you off the sidewalk after the show like raccoons. First Unitarian Church 2125 Chestnut St., 877-435-9849, r5productions.com Telltale bookings: Fucked Up, Toro Y Moi, Black Moth Super Rainbow, Thermals. Beer: Nope. Sound: Good. Sightlines: Be tall (or be pushy). Notes: The finest dirty, sweaty, all-ages rock shows get booked in the basement. Smaller and quieter stuff gets booked upstairs in the Sanctuary and Chapel. The crowd skews young. World Caf� Live 3025 Walnut St., 215-222-1400, worldcafelive.com Telltale bookings: Alo Brasil, Jolie Holland, Bilal, Everyone Something For AEGLive.com SAT OCT OC OC OCT In Association with BRE Presents OC OC In Association with BRE Presents NO NO FRI & SAT NO In Association with Music Freaks FRI NO FRI DEC FREE Parking THE BASICS 24 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 Because We Specialize In Sterling Flatware We Pay Top Dollar. Spoons, Forks, Knives, & Pieces We Are Also Philadelphia's Premier Gold Buyer Wolf Jewelers 737 Walnut St. Phila. Pa. 19106. 215-925-3025 As Seen On and in now serving more destinations than ever, Plus late and all night sChedules on some trains, trolleYs and Buses. For routes nearest You visit sePta.org or Call 215-580-7800. THE BASICS words by Theresa Everline photo by Neal Santos OUTWARD BOUND FROM DOWNTOWN TO UPRIVER ALONG THE BANKS OF THE MIGHTY SCHUYLKILL. Want to feel both in the city and somehow not in it? Want to get a sense for how the Schuylkill River functions as Philly's backbone? Then walk, jog or cycle the section of the Schuylkill River Trail that runs from downtown to the neighborhood of East Falls, the whole path hugging the river's east side. To pick up the trail's southernmost point, go to 25th and Locust streets and cross the railroad tracks. Shortly after you turn north onto the trail you'll encounter the Schuylkill Banks Center (215-222-6030, schuylkillbanks.org), which offers information and activities such as guided kayak tours. As you cross beneath Walnut and Market streets (which have access ramps to the trail), you can see beautiful views of 30th Street Station across the river and the Philadelphia Museum of Art perched on its hill ahead. After a brief ascent, you'll circle around the base of the hill that holds lovely, steep paths to the museum. Here on the trail's left side is the Water Works (640 Waterworks Drive, 26 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 trail blazin' 215-685-0723, fairmountwaterworks.org), where in the early 19th century steam engines and water wheels pumped the river's water into reservoirs. The stately building now houses an interpretive center and a fancy restaurant (215-236-9000, waterworksrestaurant.com). A short ways on sits Lloyd Hall, where you'll find the breakfast-and-lunch spot Cosmic Caf� (1 Boathouse Row, 215-978-0900, cosmicfoods. com), along with bathrooms, drinking fountains and most likely skaters with boom boxes. Next you can get a close look at the not-lit-up side of famed Boathouse Row. From this point, with Kelly Drive now on your right, you begin to leave the city behind. The Schuylkill Expressway's traffic jams across the river recede behind trees. Things become very, very green. Public artworks dot this stretch of the trail, including sculpture terraces with monumental- looking representations of the laborers of Philly's past. Up ahead, notice the high arches and iron latticework of the Strawberry Mansion Bridge, originally built to carry trolley cars. Then, as you approach Kelly Drive's intersection with Hunting Park Avenue, you'll see a sampling of Laurel Hill Cemetery's amazing mausoleums perched high on the bluff on your right (3822 Ridge Ave., 215-228-8200, thelaurelhillcemetery.org). Well worth a visit in itself, Laurel Hill is the final resting place of many prominent Philadelphians (David Rittenhouse, anyone?). You've made it about five miles so far, and East Falls is just ahead. Stop at the intersection with Ferry Road and check out the little metal cutout signs depicting fish that populate the river. Looming above, the twin bridges carry Route 1's traffic. Just ahead on the trail is the Falls Bridge, where you can cross the Schuylkill and head back to the city on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive. But you've just had a pretty good workout, right? A stone's throw away in a century-old building, the Trolley Car Caf� (3269 S. Ferry Road, 267-385-6703, trolleycardiner.com/cafe) offers good food, a sunny patio, bathrooms and a wall map of the area -- where you'll see more trails to explore. THE BASICS words by Felicia D'Ambrosio photo by Neal Santos green living VEGGING OUT YOUR GUIDE TO PRODUCE-HUNTING IN THE 215. Expensive to make and highly prized throughout history, meat has occupied the center of our plates since Americans surmounted the privations of the Depression and World War II. It is only recently that research has indicated heavy consumption of animal protein is detrimental to one's health -- not to mention the health of the animal -- and that we should instead fill our plates with plant matter. Fortunately for Philadelphia vegivores, produce has hit prime time and dozens of shopkeepers across the city are ready for their closeups. Stretching dollars comes naturally in the Italian Market (South Ninth Street between Washington and Christian), where dozens of vendors offer conventionally grown produce along the historic curb market. Scott & Judy's (911 S. Ninth St., 215-922-1396) is the best of the lot; otherwise, be discerning and use everything right away. Better quality and a wildly diverse selection of vendors characterize the bustling Reading Terminal Market (12th and Arch streets, readingterminalmarket.org), where juggernaut Iovine Brothers Produce (215-928-4366, iovine. com) stocks everything the green earth grows. Hung Vuong Super Market (1122 Washington Ave., 215-336-2803) has great prices and interesting Asian offerings, while Sue's Produce (114 S. 18th St., 215-241-0102) boasts a devoted Center City following and a mix of tropical, local and conventional goods. If local and organic are your plant priority, you can shake the hands that grew the food at yearround farmers markets at Rittenhouse Square (18th and Walnut streets, Saturdays, 9:30 a.m.-3 p.m.) and Clark Park (43rd Street and Baltimore Avenue, Saturdays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.). Through the growing season, the finest organic vegetables a celebrity chef can command are on sale at swanky, cult-y Headhouse Farmers Market (Second and Lombard streets, Sundays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., MayDecember). Visit farmtocity.org and thefoodtrust. org for seasonal schedules and the locations of dozens more markets all over the city. The Fair Food Farmstand (Reading Terminal Market, fairfoodphilly.org) carries the local-est of locally grown goods year-round right in the center of town; Green Aisle Grocery (1618 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-1411, greenaislegrocery.com) and Milk & Honey Market (4425 Baltimore Ave., 215387-6455, milkandhoneymarket.com) hold down the role in the north, south and west, respectively. Committed produce hounds should consider joining a CSA (community supported agriculture) in April; the model provides small, sustainable farms with much-needed capital in the beginning of the season in exchange for a weekly share of its production. Some of the best include Lancaster Farm Fresh (lancasterfarmfresh.com), Culton Organics (3683 Marietta Ave., Silver Spring, Pa., 717-285-4064) and Greensgrow Farms (2501 E. Cumberland St., 215- 427-2702, greensgrow.org), an urban farm operating both summer and winter CSAs as well as a Saturday farmers market during the growing season. Visit localharvest.org and enter your ZIP code to find dozens more CSAs in the area. Got outdoor space and at least six hours of sunshine? Grow your own edibles with help from indie nurseries far and wide: Greensgrow has seeds, plants, good advice and weekly workshops, while Urban Jungle (1526 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-952-0811, urbanjunglephila.com) and City Planter (814 N. Fourth St., 215-627-6169, cityplanter.com) are equipped with everything you'll need to get going. CITYPAPER.NET 27 THE BASICS words by Holly Otterbein photo by Neal Santos THE EXHIBITIONISTS TIPS ON GETTING THE MOST OUT OF PHILLY'S ARTS-CENTERED FIRST FRIDAYS. On First Fridays, which occur each month exactly when you think they do, arts spaces extend their hours and often offer special programs. The list of participating venues is long and can vary each time, but here are some starting points for negotiating the festivities. Gallery Joe It's like your English teacher always said: Before you break the rules, learn them. In the case of First Friday, that means heading to Old City, where Philadelphia's monthly arts event was born in the '90s. Here you'll find wine, cheese and a thriving, surprisingly weird community of vendors, firebreathers and other street performers -- and, in the case of Gallery Joe, a solid lineup of abstract, subtle, still art. First Fridays, 6-8 p.m., free, 302 Arch St., 215-592-7752, galleryjoe.com. Institute of Contemporary Art Sounds obvious, but the Institute of Contemporary Art is the best place to find contemporary work in the city. Recent exhibitions have featured Sheila Hicks' satisfyingly odd fiber pieces, an Andy Warhol retrospective, native son Anthony Campuzano's word art, and an otherworldly Sun Ra celebration. While you're at it, don't miss the contemporary art you're literally inside of: The museum's building is a 1960s beauty with big windows and even bigger views. Usually first Thursdays, 6-8 p.m., free, 118 S. 36th Street, 215-898-7108, icaphilly.org. 28 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 gallery hopping Philadelphia Museum of Art Especially for beginners, the Philadelphia Museum of Art -- one of the largest museums in the country, and one of the city's greatest accomplishments to this day -- can be a lot to take in. A good place to start is Art After 5, where you'll catch jazz, world music, cocktails and snacks on the magnificent stairwell inside. Usually, only a few of the museum's galleries are open at this hour -- all the better for avoiding visual-art overload. First Fridays, 5-8:45 p.m., free with admission ($12-$16), 2600 Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-7638100, philamuseum.org. Crane Arts Building Kill lots of birds with one stone at the Crane Arts Building. This beautifully restored Kensington warehouse is home to several galleries: the Ice Box, InLiquid, Indigo Arts, NEXUS, Philadelphia Photo Arts Center and UD. On any given Friday, you'll find folk art, the city's best photography, puppet shows and mind-bending videos here -- something for everyone. Usually First Fridays, 6-9 p.m., free, 1400 N. American St., 215-232-3203, cranearts.com. Fleisher-Ollman Gallery Fleisher-Ollman Gallery won its laurels in '60s, '70s and '80s for exhibiting the world's best selftaught artists. Since then, the space has loosened its mission and embraced conventionally educated folks, too, but it hasn't lost a bit of its individualism. The imaginative themes that curators impose on the art here -- "useless" art, photographs re-imagined into other mediums, "I Don't Watch the Internet" -- are often just as pleasing as the works themselves. Usually Fridays, 6-9 p.m., free, 1616 Walnut St., Suite 100, 215-545-7562, fleisher-ollmangallery.com. FLUXspace The FLUXspace is an unconventional gallery. For one thing, it's in North Philly. For another, the building was once a textile mill warehouse -- which, compared to a place like the Crane Arts Building, hasn't been all that fixed up. Plus, it floods sometimes and doesn't have air conditioning. Embrace these flaws. They are more than worth it given the thought-provoking and often hilarious art that's exhibited here. A recent event, for example, was called the North Philadelphia Puberty Survivors Support Forum. Usually Fridays and Saturdays, 5-7 p.m., free, 1000 N. Hope St., 914-806-4889, thefluxspace.org. Look for First Friday coverage in City Paper's A&E section, citypaper.net/arts. Welcome to Philadelphia! Visit the Annenberg Center to enjoy dance, theatre, jazz and world music performances by renowned artists and companies from across the globe. Save 20% on the performance of your choice in the 11/12 season with promo code `WELCOME20'! TICKETS START AT $20! Only $10-$15 for students! AnnenbergCenter.org 215.898.3900 THE BASICS words by Carolyn Huckabay photo by lucytheelephant.org THE GETAWAYS A TRIPTYCH OF QUICK TRIPS ON A TANK OF GAS OR LESS. Itinerary 1: Take a tour of the Jersey Shore. You're not a true Philadelphian till you do what all residents of this city do on summer weekends: leave. Join the masses and go down the shore -- from historic Cape May (capemay.com) and family-friendly (read: alcohol-free) Ocean City (ocnj.us) to the wild, wild Wildwoods (wildwoodsnj.com) and casino-riffic Atlantic City (atlanticcitynj.com). Don't miss strange tourist attractions like Lucy the Elephant in Margate (lucytheelephant.org, margate-nj.com) and the Jersey Shore house in Seaside Heights (seaside-heightsnj.org); and be sure to grab a giant slice of pizza at Mack & Manco in the O.C. (mackandmancos.com) and a Kohr Bros. frozen custard (kohrbros.com) for dessert. If you're looking for a taste of new-school Atlantic City nightlife, head to the brand-new Diving Horse Cabaret and Steakhouse (divinghorseclub. com); for a taste of home, make reservations at -- no relation -- Avalon's The Diving Horse (thedivinghorseavalon.com, avalonbeach.com), owned by the folks behind acclaimed Philly gastropub Pub & Kitchen. 30 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 on the road Itinerary 2: Nobody knows snow like the Poconos. In the winter months, drive two hours northwest into the heart of the Pocono Mountains (800poconos.com), where snowboarding, skiing and nice, warm mugs of hot cocoa await. If you're looking for a little history with your winter sports, visit Jim Thorpe ( jimthorpe.org); hamlets like Stroudsburg (stroudsburg.net) and Delaware Water Gap (nps.gov/dewa) are more rustic. Should you seek a shady summertime escape, the Poconos are chock-full of hiking and biking trails (poconobiking.com), kayaking and rafting waters (poconowhitewater.com), plus shopping, B&Bs and plenty of restaurants -- including the Water Gap's Village Farmer (villagefarmer.com), where hot dogs and pie are always on special. Itinerary 3: Get your shop on in New Hope. An easy 45-minute ride up I-95, New Hope (newhopepa.com) is known for its quaint rows of shops and restaurants, ranging from art galleries to homemade ice cream to antiques. But don't let the old-fashioned charm fool you: This little town's got plenty of quirk, too, from Mystical Times' selection of Wiccan greeting cards (mysticaltimes.com) to Le Chateau Exotique's vast array of S&M accoutrements (fetishwear. com). Looking for something tamer? Load the kids onto the old-timey New Hope & Ivyland Railroad (newhoperailroad.com), which hosts song and story-hour rides, or hit up New Hope Winery (newhopewinery.com) with the grownups for tastings, tours and live music. If the weather's nice, take a stroll along the Delaware Canal towpath, which extends 60 miles from Easton to Bristol; if it rains, stick to Main Street for optimal awning-protected window shopping. One the way home, swing by Yardley for a hypermodern dinner at Charcoal (charcoalbyob.com) -- but remember, it's a BYOB, so you'll have to come armed with alcohol. Good thing you stopped at that winery. Jim Thorpe Pennsylvania www.JimThorpe.org Easy LEhigh gORgE RaiL-TRaiL 90 mins fROm PhiLLy "Outside Magazine" One of the 50 Best Rides in the Country Known as "Big Belly" by the Lenape Indians, Johan Printz was the royal governor of the New Sweden Colony in the 1640s. Discover more of the fascinating history of the Delaware Valley at the American Swedish Historical Museum. We also do: Whitewater Rafting & Skirmish Paintball Want to know more about Sweden and Swedes in America? From the Vikings to The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, we've got the answers. Phone 215.389.1776 americanswedish.org 1900 Pattison Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19145 THE BASICS words by Josh Middleton photo by Neal Santos OUT ON THE TOWN YOU'RE HERE. YOU'RE QUEER. LET'S DO THIS. Don't fret, young gay transient! Philadelphia isn't entirely made up of macho sports fans and figurebusting cheesesteaks. Here thrives an LGBTQ community that's just as embraced by city dwellers as the lost-its-ding-dong Liberty Bell. I mean, come on, we have a whole neighborhood named after us. Nightlife The Gayborhood is your safest bet for a wellrounded gay night on the town. If you like your drinks strong and your men well-aged, start at Uncles (1220 Locust St., 215-546-6660, unclesupstairsinn.com) for cocktails that are stiff and cheap. For the next stop, it's all about what (or who) you're looking for. Get your dance on with guy-next-door types at hood mainstay Woody's (202 S. 13th St., 215-545-1893, woodysbar.com), sing a ditty with artsier queens in the piano lounge at Tavern on Camac (243 S. Camac St., 215-545-0900, tavernoncamac.com), or brush hairy elbows with leather-bound daddy bears in the dungeonesque Bike Stop (206 S. Quince St., 215-627-1662, thebikestop.com). If you think dudes are icky, Sisters (1320 Chancellor St., 215-735-0735, sistersnightclub.com) overflows with enough lesbians to make your head spin. Festivals Sure, we have a summertime Pride Parade and Festival (phillypride.org) with marches and parties out the ying-yang, but our LGBTQhonoring festivities don't stop there. Every spring, the weeklong Equality Forum (equalityforum. com) hosts a responsible itinerary of discussions, film screenings and get-togethers geared toward propelling the national gay rights movement. When fall rolls around, OutFest (phillypride. org) celebrates National Coming Out Day with a massive street party in the Gayborhood. And Queers of the Avenue is a popular monthly happy hour along one of Philly's newest gay corridors, East Passyunk Avenue, which in the warmer months spills out into the streets -- block-party style. Shopping A multitude of gay-owned businesses keep Philly's commerce community booming. Lesbian couple Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran run six businesses in Midtown Village, including upscale noshery Grocery (101 S. 13th St., 215-922-5252, grocery13.com); modern home goods shop Open House (107 S. 13th St., 215-922-1415, openhouseliving.com); and Verde (108 S. 13th St., 215-546-8700, verdephiladelphia. com), an earthy purveyor of accessories and artisanal chocolates. Keep your closet fresh with up-to-date threads from Matthew Izzo's unisex fashion boutique (111 S. 12th St., 215-829-0606, matthewizzo.com) and Metro Men's Clothing (1615 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-324-5172, metromensclothing.com). And your queer lit collection will look a lot sexier with a few purchases from Ed Hermance's Giovanni's Room (345 S. 12th St., 215-9232960, giovannisroom.com). His cozy, two-level book nook is the oldest LGBTQ bookstore in the country. Community Outreach Whether you're volunteering or utilizing their services, getting involved with any of Philly's gay-oriented nonprofits is your key to becoming a vital member of the local queer scene. The William Way Community Center (1315 Spruce St., 215-732-2220, waygay.org) provides educational resources meant to bridge societal gaps between the different groups that comprise the LGBTQ spectrum. Spring chickens between the ages of 18 and 23 can take advantage of a variety of gay-youth-empowering activities offered at the Attic Youth Center (255 S. 16th St., 215-545-4331, atticyouthcenter.org). And the Mazzoni Center (21 S. 12th St., 215-5630652, mazzonicenter.org) is an abundant medical resource agency -- providing everything from free HIV testing to health care for those without coverage. Tip: Remember these places when you're feeling charitable. Look for Josh Middleton's column, "Queer Bait," every other week in the Agenda section of City Paper. the lgbt queue CITYPAPER.NET 33 THE BASICS words by Patrick Rapa photo by Neal Santos FIELDERS' CHOICE PHILLY'S FULL OF GOOD SPORTS AND BOISTEROUS FANS. Flyers Sport: Hockey. Colors: Orange, black, white. Venue: Wells Fargo Center. Unofficial Motto: Everybody Hurts. Defining Fan Moment: The time that drunk dude fell in the penalty box and fought Tie Domi. Notes: The Flyers have a reputation for tough play, annual playoff appearances and season-ending disappointment. The franchise won its two (only) Stanley Cups in '74 and '75, back when Bobby Clarke, Bernie Parent and the Broad Street Bullies were punching the entire NHL (and the Russian Red Army) in the face. Since then, the Flyers have come close a few times and almost come close a lot. But this could be their year. I say that every year. Eagles Sport: Football. Colors: Green, silver, white. Venue: Lincoln Financial Field. Unofficial Motto: E-A-G-, etc. Defining Fan Moment: Throwing snowballs at Santa in 1968. We've never lived it down. Notes: The Eagles have never won the Super Bowl, but their fans are insufferably cocky anyway, always chanting, strategizing and basically strutting around like temporarily embarrassed champions. That said, the team is usually pretty fun to watch and the tailgating scene is the best in the country. 34 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 home teams Sixers Sport: Basketball. Colors: Red, white, blue. Venue: Wells Fargo Center. Unofficial Motto: We miss you. Defining Fan Moment: It's been a while since this team has had fans or moments. Notes: Long gone are the days of Dr. J, Charles Barkley and Allen Iverson. These days the once-proud 76ers have stars you never heard of, like the tall dude, the old guy and the kid with the weird voice. Plenty of good seats still available. Phillies Sport: Baseball. Colors: Red, white, a little blue. Venue: Citizens Bank Park. Unofficial Motto: World Fucking Champions! Defining Fan Moment: Is it the Tasing at centerfield or that dude who barfed on a kid on purpose? Notes: The bad news is that the 128-year-old Phillies are, arguably, the losingest pro franchise ever, having reached 10,000 losses in 2007. The good news: They won their second World Series in 2008 (the other one coming in 1980), and thanks to a killer starting rotation will probably always win from now on. Union Sport: Soccer. Colors: Blue, gold. Venue: PPL Park (in Chester). Motto: We always remember not to use our hands. Defining Fan Moment: The Union's fan club, The Sons of Ben, predates the team by three years and sets a high standard for enthusiasm and creative/crude chanting. There's nothing like thousands of voices uniting to say "Fuck you asshole!" Many times a game. Notes: The surprise hit of the Philly sports world: Games are well attended and people are buying the jerseys (even though they advertise Bimbo baking company right on the front). See Also: Wings: Home games for our long-standing indoor lacrosse team have a strange, family-friendly/ Roman Colosseum vibe. Roller Girls/Penn Jersey Roller Derby: Yes, Philly has two indie all-girl roller derby leagues. Soul: Our on-again/off-again indoor football team, formerly owned by Bon Jovi. Liberty Belles: This women's tackle football team plays in Ambler. Independence: A women's pro-soccer team based in Chester. Kixx: Our indoor men's soccer team still exists. Philadelphia Freedoms: Wow, we have a tennis team? THE HOODS IT'S WHERE WE LIVE location Grays Ferry Avenue and Pemberton Street photo by Neal Santos CITY OF NEIGHBORLY LOVE Yeah, yeah, the "Philadelphia is a city of neighborhoods" claim is a bit of a clich�; after all, aren't all major metropolises made up of tinier parts? But in Philly, it's true. Partially because the city itself was, once upon a time, cobbled together from a collection of self-governing municipalities. Which could be why many retain distinct flavors. When you step back, zoom out and take Philly for all that it is -- bike-friendly, boutique-heavy, foodie-centric, diverse and much greener than you might think -- you start to realize that this particular clich� is one to be proud of. The following pages contain a selective listing of things to do and places to be. Is there more to discover? Absolutely. But we can only hold your hand for so long. mount airy /chestnut hill /germantown oak lane /olney northeast philly roxborough manayunk east falls north philly west philly center city south philly southwest philly bicycle - friendly routes off - road bicycle routes 30th st m a st er 34t t h s gi ra rd av e st NORTH PHIL ri dg e e av LY N PORT FISHIN GTON 76 gi ra rd av e po pl ar pe zo ol st og ic al ke 40th st ma as pe n st dr lk ll y nt il dr FAIRMOUNT e av fairmo unt ave nn an lv sy sc hu y ia ua l av e ex py fa ir rid have NORTHERN LI mo unt av e BERTIES 95 st 21st st st av e rfor d st ga rd en ge 19th st sp ri ng 22n d 18th st ga rd en 17th st 31st st 10th st 7th st on av e powe lt 676 li 2n d st k 3rd st n 4th st a hi ll st 5th st ca llow 6th st av e fr 8th st r 9th st in 11th st te m 12th st as 13th st nc 76 ja 15th st sp ri ng en 16th st 20th la b st e av co l n pk umb st WEST PHILLY 40th st w y v in e st . us st b lv 32n d st arch n. br oa d ex py d st 33rd st 36th jf k bl vd 34th m a rk et CHINATOWN 38th st race st st 676 b enj a m in st fra n kl in br id ge 76 sp r u ce ch estn wal nu t 95 u t st st st so (o e si ty av sc h u u n iv er s. br oa 20 i d 10 g e ) y lk il E SQUARE d st t pe h n st in g br u l r iv er RITTENHOUS lo m ba e av CENTER CITY WASHINGTON SQUARE W m a rk et EST st OLD CITY r d st gr s ay fe y rr so ut h GAYBORHOOD sp ru ce pi ne st st delaware river st GRADUATE H st 21st st SOCIETY HILL OSPITAL 17th st ch r is st 19th st 20th 23rd ti a n st 22n d st 16th st y BELLA VISTA st 15t h 12th st 28th st 32n d kil wa sh in uyl 9th st 6th st u n k av e gto n av e QUEEN VILLA pa ss y 5th st l e xp st 18th GE 95 columbus blvd sch ta sk er to n st st 38 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 fro n t 76 whar N MARKET 2n d st GRAYS FERR Y EAST PASSY st UNK/ITALIA st e THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos National Mechanics OLD CITY/WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST HOBBLE HOME ON THE COBBLESTONES. Occupying the commercial riverside streets between Chestnut and Vine, Front and Fifth, Old City is undoubtedly the city's most beautiful and historic neighborhood, home to Independence Hall, Christ Church and the cobblestoned side streets where Founding Fathers lived. That said, on weekend nights it's a roadkill fiesta of the drunken and the clueless. Stick to weeknights for bar-hopping -- or prepare accordingly. From its namesake park at Sixth and Walnut, Washington Square West fans out from Lombard to Chestnut and extends westward to 10th Street; think of it as a quieter, refined sister to mouthy Old City. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... sundaes at Franklin Fountain YOU SHOULD KNOW ... The Old City District (oldcitydistrict.org) is a great go-to website for resident and visitor info -- plus, it coined the phrase "Hipstoric." Until January 2012, Councilman Frank DiCicco (215686-3458) runs the First District. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Beneluxx Tasting Room 22 S. Third St., 215-701-4883, nationalmechanics.com Maintains a buzzy mystique thanks to lush decor and a rich wooden bar. The Plough & the Stars 123 Chestnut St., 215-733-0300 A go-to Old City spot for brews, cocktails and Irish fare. Race Street Caf� 208 Race St., 215-627-6181 This gastropubby oasis has a beer-snob-friendly tap selection and upper-middle-class sandwiches. Sheer (Swanky Bubbles) 10 S. Front St., 215-928-1200, swankybubbles.com 33 S. Third St., 215-413-1918, beneluxx.com This Old City spot recently got a makeover from the folks behind the TV series Bar Rescue. Sugar Mom's 225 Church St., 215-925-8219, myspace.com/sugarmoms Each table is outfitted with a tiny glass-rinser. It comes in handy, as this is a place where virtually everything is available by the taste. Eulogy Belgian Tavern 136 Chestnut St., 215-413-1918, eulogybar.com Drink prices here are a practice in fairness, as is the dirt-cheap bar menu. Triumph Brewing Co. 117-121 Chestnut St., 215-625-0855, triumphbrewing.com National Museum of American Jewish History First Friday, but go easy on that free wine, 'kay? Reward Boutique, Sugarcube and Third Street Habit Israeli cuisine at Zahav Skeletons always look like they're smiling, and at Eulogy, you get the feeling it's because they're actually enjoying themselves. Khyber Pass Pub 56 S. Second St., 215-238-5888, thekhyber.com The beers here are quaffable crowd-pleasers. Varga Bar 941 Spruce St., 215-627-5200, vargabar.com This storied music venue/craft beer haven's reinvented itself as a Southern-styled comfortfoodery, still keeping a strong focus on the brews. Mac's Tavern 226 Market St., 215-922-0522, macsphilly.com A neighborhood pub in Washington Square West with all-American food and drink. Amada 217 Chestnut St., 215-625-2450, amadarestaurant.com For the record, this bar does not serve milk steak. Iron Chef Jose Garces' knockout Spanish eatery does tapas with a touch of style. CITYPAPER.NET 39 Caf� Ole 147 N. Third St., 215-627-2140 Perfect spot to stop and relax while sipping on an herb-infused iced tea. Chifa 707 Chestnut St., 215-925-5555, chifarestaurant.com Jose Garces celebrates the one-of-a-kind amalgam of Peruvian and Cantonese cooking at this popular Chestnut Street hot spot. Chloe 232 Arch St., 215-629-2337, chloebyob.com Delicious food, great service and -- for the first time in its 10-year history -- a credit card machine. The Continental 138 Market St., 215-923-6069, continentalmartinibar.com The original star in the Stephen Starr empire. Cooperage Curtis Center, 601 Walnut St., 215-226-COOP, cooperagephilly.com Tucked inside the western edge of the Curtis Center, Cooperage specializes in wine, whiskey and Southern-inflected food. Delicatessen 703 Chestnut St., 215-923-4560, delicatessenphilly.com Their slogan: "You eat, and then 72 hours later, you're hungry." The Foodery 324 S. 10th St., 215-928-1111, fooderybeer.com When Philadelphians crave good beer, they crave this vast menu of imports and microbrews, available for takeout by the bottle or six-pack. Fork 306 Market St., 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com Fork has pioneered a farm-to-table mentality, adding an artisanal edge with hand-crafted pasta, bread, charcuterie and smoked fish. Franklin Fountain 116 Market St., 215-627-1899, franklinfountain.com A throwback corner ice cream saloon in Old City. Han Dynasty 108 Chestnut St., 215-922-1888, handynasty.net Han Dynasty serves Sichuan food and considers proper spicing (read: all the way up to napalm level) its raison d'�tre. Kanella 266 S. 10th St., 215-922-1773 The Cypriot menu is based around gimmick-free simplicity -- chef/owner Konstantinos Pitsillides works with organic free-range meats, from quail and rabbit to baby lamb and goat; he also offers locally sourced fish daily. Maru Global Takoyaki 255 S. 10th St., 267-273-0567, maruphilly.com This modest, mostly takeout restaurant ]specializes in takoyaki, the snacky little dough balls ubiquitous on the streets of Ryo's hometown of Tokyo. Morimoto 723 Chestnut St., 215-413-9070, morimotorestaurant.com This is what happens when famed Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto collaborates with famed restaurant mogul Stephen Starr. Old City Coffee 221 Church St., 215-629-9292 National Museum of American Jewish History 55 N. Fifth St., 215-923-3811, nmajh.org A hot spot for Old City denizens who like to linger on the outdoor tables along Church Street. Revolution House 200 Market St., 215-625-4566 The newest addition to Independence Mall celebrates the history and influence of Jews in America. Olde City Tattoos 44 S. Second St., 215-627-6271, oldecitytattoo.com The transformation from corner diner to swanky roof-decked restaurant is nothing short of incredible. Talula's Garden 210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787, talulasgarden.com Painted Bride Art Center 230 Vine St., 215-925-9914, paintedbride.org With its tiled mosaic exterior, the 250-seat theater is all about art, inside and out. The Bride hosts theater, dance, music, poetry and art shows. Ritz East 125 S. Second St., 215-925-7900, landmarktheatres.com From the bread service to the dessert, this Stephen Starr collabo hits consistent high notes. Wedge + Fig 160 N. Third St., 215-238-1716, wedgeandfig.com One of three neighborhood cinemas in the 'hood showing strictly indie fare. St. Stephen's Theatre 923 Ludlow St., 215-829-9002, lanterntheater.org A newcomer to Third Street, Wedge + Fig features an extensive cheese case, delightfully light lunch items and sweet treats to ruin that healthy lunch you just ate. Zahav 247 St. James Place, 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com This venue houses the Lantern Theater Co., which has been nominated for dozens of Barrymore awards during its 13-year residence in Philadelphia. Temple Gallery 259 N. Third St., 215-782-2776, temple.edu/tyler Small plates include raw ground lamb and a flavorful Moroccan-style fish stew; a tasting menu is available on Thursday evenings. Zento 138 Chestnut St., 215-925-9998, zentocontemporary.com Ven and Vaida Gallery 18 S. Third St., 215-592-4099, venandvaida.com Sushi's 15 minutes of fame may be over in Old City, but Zento remains a classy spot to grab tasty, thoughtfully prepared maki. LIVE MUSIC Tin Angel This Old City gallery is committed to bringing their clients the edgiest jewelry on the market, both modern and period pieces. Walnut Street Theatre 825 Walnut St., 215-574-3550, walnutstreettheatre.org The oldest theater in the country celebrates its 202nd birthday this year. Wexler Gallery SHOPPING AKA Music 205 N. Third St., 215-923-7030, wexlergallery.com 20 S. Second St., 215-928-0978, tinangel.com Situated above Serrano restaurant, this cozy Old City hideaway is home to mellow rock acts. ARTS + CULTURE Arden Theatre Co. 40 N. Second St., 215-922-1122, ardentheatre.org 27 N. Second St., 215-922-3855 The Arden offers a little bit of everything -- from well-known musicals to world premi�res. AxD Gallery 265 S. 10th St., 215-627-6250, a-x-d.com/gallery New and used CDs and vinyl, plus hard-to-find items and friendly, knowledgeable staff. Art in the Age 116 N. Third St., 215-922-2600, artintheage.com HAPPY HOUR PROMO Monday � Friday 5pm � 7pm $6 Svedka Cocktails $6 House Wines $6 Champagne Cocktails $3 Domestics $5 Food Menu Chicken Dumplings Chicken Spring Rolls Calamari Spicy Tuna Maki California Maki Betsy Ross House 239 Arch St., 215-686-1252, betsyrosshouse.org Chemical Heritage Foundation The Clay Studio Gallery Joe 315 Chestnut St., 215-925-2222, chemheritage.org 139 N. Second St., 215-925-3453, theclaystudio.org 304 Arch St., 215-592-7752, galleryjoe.com Artist-made T-shirts, playful dresses and Old World-inspired bags abound at this old-school boutique/gallery space. It's even got its own brands of liquor -- the root beer-inspired ROOT and the gingery SNAP. Book Trader 7 N. Second St., 215-925-0517 A cozy used-books hub worth spending an afternoon or a lifetime wandering through. Brave New Worlds 45 N. Second St., 215-925-6525, bravenewworldscomics.com Locks Gallery 600 Washington Sq., 215-629-1000, locksgallery.com National Constitution Center 525 Arch St., 215-409-6600, constitutioncenter.org This comics shop doubles as a gallery showcasing local graphic artists. DeTours 22 N. Third St., 267-324-5408, detourstouring.com SUPER SAKE SUNDAYS $7 Can Sapporo $5 House Sake See Philly from a whole new perspective with 10 South Front St, Philadelphia. 215-928-1200 THE HOODS: OLD CITY/WASHINGTON SQUARE WEST DeTours, offering Segway, running and bike excursions for small groups. Hana & Posy 35 N. Third St., 215-733-0505, hanaposy.com Sioux Zanne Messix 54 1/2 N. Third St., 215-928-9250 Wolf of Walnut Street 737 Walnut St., 215-925-3025 Go green with this organic eco-friendly florist and one-stop gift shop featuring everything from baby to beauty. Jonathan Adler 33 N. Third St., 215-574-1999, jonathanadler.com This lovely boutique is filled with one-of-a-kind vintage items and brand-new brands -- and plenty of pink. Smak Parlour 219 Market St., 215-625-4551, smakparlour.com A full-service retail jewelry store for when you need to buy your sweetie something sweet -- and shiny. PARKS + REC Christ Church Philly's pinkest building features handmade piec- 20 N. American St., 215-922-1695, christchurchphila.org Transform your home with chic accessories and furniture from this acclaimed interior designer with an eye for quirky elegance. Lost + Found 133 N. Third St., 215-928-1311 Franklin Square Spirit of Philadelphia 200 N. Sixth St., historicphiladelphia.org 123 Chestnut St., Fourth Floor, 215-627-3331, spiritofphiladelphia.com Independence National Historical Park Sixth and Market streets, 800-537-7676, independencevisitorcenter.com This Old City nook features new and vintage clothing, accessories, shoes and jewelry for men and women. Reward Boutique 55 N. Second St., 267-773-8675, rewardproject.com Book a dinner or lunch cruise on the newly renovated Spirit of Philadelphia, complete with an under-lit dancefloor, LED lighting and more. Sugarcube 124 N. Third St., 215-238-0825, sugarcube.us Sweat Gym 45 N. Third St., 215-923-8763, sweatfitness.com Washington Square Park 210 W. Washington Square, 215-592-7787 Carefully curated brands for guys and gals, includSazz Vintage The reigning Old City pretty girl with all the cool, expensive clothes, Sugarcube will satisfy your SoHo shopping craving and then some. Three Sirens Boutique 134 N. Third St., 215-925-3548, threesirens.com 38 N. Third St., 215-923-SAZZ, sazzvintage.com Except for one "girlfriend rack," Philly native Amanda Saslow's vintage boutique is entirely devoted to guys who can rock a powder-blue tux. Scarlett Alley 237 Race St., 215-592-7898, scarlettalley.com Trendy and reasonably priced with great service, this boutique is a girl's best friend. Third Street Habit Boutique 153 N. Third St., 215-925-5455, thirdstreethabit.com This boutique has great service and an even greater inventory featuring jewelry, homeware, spa essentials and gifts for everyone from newborns to brides-to-be. This chic designer shop just launched an online store -- get out that credit card. Vagabond Boutique 37 N. Third St., 267-671-0737, vagabondboutique.com The definitive little-black-dress-with-a-twist stop features vintage, designer and organic pieces. 42 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST MEET ME ON THE QUAD. Center City West -- with Rittenhouse at its center -- encompasses everything from Broad Street to the hard-to-pronounce Schuylkill (say it: SKOO-kul) River, Lombard Street to Market. Walnut Street serves as our Rodeo Drive, lined with retail opportunities from M.A.C. to Barney's Co-op. Resident bluenoses rub shoulders with the masses enjoying the greenery of Rittenhouse Square, making it the city's top people-watching spot. If Barney's isn't in your budget, head north toward majorly discounted shopping at Daffy's, Second Time Around consignment and the funky, trashy shops of Chestnut Street. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... Parc Restaurant on the square Rittenhouse Square itself the Church of the Holy Trinity spirited at Village Whiskey concert at First Unitarian Church YOU SHOULD KNOW ... Visit Rittenhouse Row (rittenhouserow.org) for info on shopping, dining and real estate. If you live in the Second District, Anna Verna (215-686-3412) is your City Councilwoman through 2011. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Doobie's der 15's den-like space features a fireplace, cozy booths and a 30-seat bar. Locust Rendezvous Bar & Grill 1415 Locust St., 215-985-1163 The 'Vous serves breakfast all day on weekends and reasonable bar fare at night. Misconduct Tavern 1511 Locust St., 215-732-5797, misconduct-tavern.com A solid craft beer selection and TVs galore characterize this maritime-themed bar, a slightly quieter respite from the packed pubs of Center City. Monk's Caf� 264 S. 16th St., 215-545-7005, monkscafe.com 2201 Lombard St., 215-546-0316 A dark, crowded Belgian joint that offers a staggering selection of international beers. Nodding Head 1516 Sansom St., 2nd Fl., 215-569-9525, noddinghead.com A cozy, cheap neighborhood tavern, Doobie's offers a late-night respite with dark wine-colored walls and a brightly lit bar. Good Dog 224 S. 15th St., 215-985-9600, gooddogbar.com A laid-back feel encourages the hordes to sidle up to the bar for a glass of house-brewed hooch. Stir 1705 Chancellor St., 215-732-2700, stirphilly.com Some of the best bar food in town, and the beer ain't bad, either. Jolly's Restaurant & Rocking Dueling Piano Bar Stir is a sleek, multibar gay lounge hidden on Chancellor Street, accessible via two-second duck off Rittenhouse Square. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 10 Arts The Ritz-Carlton, 10 S. Broad St., 215-523-8221, 10arts.com 1420 Locust St., 267-687-1161, jollyspianobar.com Jolly's recently relocated to the Academy House, where regular performers play all the classics. Ladder 15 1528 Sansom St., 215-964-9755, ladder15philly.com Decked out in dark wood and industrial steel, Lad- Jennifer Carroll, a Philly native and former sous chef at Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin, designed 10 Arts' menus around goodies from local purveyors. CITYPAPER.NET 43 THE HOODS: RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST Audrey Claire 276 S. 20th St., 215-731-1222, audreyclaire.com Lacroix "Fresh" is a key word here; the ingredients seem remarkably unpolluted and undiluted. Butcher & Singer 1500 Walnut St., 215-732-4444, butcherandsinger.com 210 West Rittenhouse Square, 215-790-2533, lacroixrestaurant.com Fine dining with a view of Rittenhouse Square. Mama Palma's 2229 Spruce St., 215-735-7357 A Mad Men aesthetic creates a toasty backdrop for this manly meat menu, centered around cuts like Delmonicos, dry-aged porterhouses, pork chops and more. Caf� Lutecia 2301 Lombard St., 215-790-9557 This corner sit-down might be the most aesthetically pleasing pizzeria in Center City; they're all about wood-fired toasty tastes and gourmet ingredients. Melograno 2012 Sansom St., 215-875-8116 A member of the Philadelphia culinary scene for more than 15 years, Caf� Lut�cia serves up its own glory just might be its glorious tomato bisque. El Fuego 2104 Chestnut St., 215-751-1435, elfuegoburritos.com Melograno stands out among the crop of Philly's Italian BYOs for its quality and consistency. M�m� 2201 Spruce St., 215-735-4900, memerestaurant.com Chef/owner David Katz's cuisine is often chareven better than you remember. Oyster House 1516 Sansom St., 215-567-7683, oysterhousephilly.com In the second rendition of their assembly-line burrito palace, El Fuego has thrown caution to the wind and stocked the place with a full bar. Elixr Coffee 207 S. 15th St., 215-475-8221, elixrcoffee.com Bean fiend Evan Inatome offers some serious coffee along with Au Fournil pastries and Marathon El Rey Our fair city went a while without a proper fish house. Enter third-generation restaurant man Sam Mink, who's revived the family business with a smart renovation and a strong kitchen. Parc 227 S. 18th St., 215-545-2262, parc-restaurant.com 2013 Chestnut St., 215-563-3330, elreyrestaurant.com The walls are filled with trippy Mexican prison art back of the restaurant sits the Ranstead Room, a covert cocktail bar that opens at 7 p.m. nightly. Erawan 123 S. 23rd St., 215-567-2542 Watching the sun strike the open windows of Stephen Starr's Parc is one of those beyondelegant moments that make you glad you live in Philly. Philadelphia Chutney Co. 1628 Sansom St., 215-564-6446, philadelphiachutneyco.com What pushes this cuisine over the edge is the presence of crispy rice in entr�es, which gives a texture that may send your mind away to the Laotian side of the Mekong River. Fish 1708 Lombard St., 215-545-9600, fishphilly.com This quick-serve, all-vegetarian Indian/Pakistani spot serves up doasas, uttapas and samosas. Pub & Kitchen 1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350, thepubandkitchen.com Chef Mike Stollenwerk has a talent for imbuing simpler preparations with enough complexity to engage your attention without fragmenting it. Good Karma Cafe 331 S. 22nd St., 215-546-1479, thegoodkarmacafe.com As you might gather from the name, Pub & Kitchen has both a stellar booze selection (lots of craft beer) and polished U.K.-inspired fare (try the signature Churchill burger). Pure Fare 119 S. 21st St., 267-318-7441, purefare.com All coffees and teas are fair-trade and organic; eats options include breakfast prerequisites like bagels and pastries as well as locally produced soups, salads and sandwiches. Jose Pistola's 263 S. 15th St., 215-545-4101, josepistolas.com Pure Fare's calorie-conscious menu items, most of which are sourced from local farmers/purveyors, were vetted by a professor of nutrition education. Rotisseur 100.5 S. 21st St., 215-496-9494, rotisseur.net A burrito bar for the fancy-beer-swilling crowd -- or for anyone who wants to watch a game without being surrounded by hoarse-voiced Iggles fans. La Colombe 130 S. 19th St., 215-563-0860; 1414 South Penn Square, 215-977-7770 ; lacolombe.com Cage-, hormone- and antibiotic-free rotisserie chicken paired with classic American favorites like mac 'n' cheese, potato salad and corn muffins. Tinto 114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant.com Euro-bohemia meets Rittenhouse chic for the richest java in town. straight out of San Sebastian, and it's as close to the real deal as this city will ever get. Twenty Manning Grill 261 S. 20th St., 215-731-0900, twentymanning.com Audrey Claire Taichman's bistro/lounge offers a casual American menu, fresh rotating "plates of the day" and some mean cocktails. Village Whiskey 118 S. 20th St., 215-665-1088, villagewhiskey.com ish-speaking world behind for an amalgam of Swing Era ambience and Southern comfort food -- plus one of the best damn burgers in the city. MUSIC Chris' Jazz Caf� 1421 Sansom St., 215-568-3131, chrisjazzcafe.com Catch local and big-name acts almost every night of week at this venue and restaurant. First Unitarian Church 2125 Chestnut St., 866-468-7619, r5productions.com Local DIY production team R5 transforms the church's basement into a sweaty all-ages haven for indie acts. Upstairs Chapel concerts are more intimate. ARTS + CULTURE Academy of Music 1420 Locust St., 215-893-1935, academyofmusic.org Hosts the Pennsylvania Ballet (paballet.org), the Opera Company of Philadelphia and the Kimmel Center's Broadway series. The Adrienne Theatre 2030 Sansom St., 215-923-2766 The 103-seat main stage houses InterAct Theatre Co., ComedySportz, Susan Hess Modern Dance and many more. Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia 1520 Locust St., No. 500, 215-545-5451, chamberorchestra.org Bringing intimate, world-class performance to Philadelphia, the Chamber Orchestra's been making beautiful music since 1964. Fleisher-Ollman Gallery 1616 Walnut St., Suite 100, 215-545-7562, fleisher-ollmangallery.com Greater Philadelphia Cultural Alliance 1616 Walnut Street, Suite 600, 215-557-7811, philaculture.org Helium Comedy Club 2031 Sansom St., 215-496-9001, heliumcomedy.com Standup from well-known funny people, like Mark Curry (Hangin' with Mr. Cooper) and Brian Posehn (The Sarah Silverman Program). Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts 300 S. Broad St., 215-893-1999, kimmelcenter.org The 2,500-seat theater is the queen bee on Broad Street and hosts shows from Philadanco, the Philadelphia Orchestra and many more, plus national and international headliners. THE HOODS: RITTENHOUSE/CENTER CITY WEST The Merriam 250 S. Broad St., 215-732-5446, merriam-theater.org The Merriam is the place to go for Broadway Roadhouse and the Pennsylvania Ballet. M�tter Museum of the College of Physicians 19 S. 22nd St., 215-563-3737, collphyphil.org SHOPPING Buffalo Exchange UBIQ 1509 Walnut St., ubiqlife.com 1713 Chestnut St., 215-557-9850, buffaloexchange.com Bring your gently used duds in for cash, or buy someone else's on the cheap. Joan Shepp 1616 Walnut St., 215-735-2666, joanshepp.com Sneaks are the thing at this hip Walnut Street footwear mecca. PARKS + REC 23rd Street Armory 22 S. 23rd St., 215-564-1488, firsttroop.com Medical anomalies abound, from old-school surgical instruments to a 3-D chart of eye diseases. Philadelphia Art Alliance Plays & Players Theater 251 S. 18th St., 215-545-4302, philartalliance.org 1714 Delancey Place, 215-735-0630, playsandplayers.org This out-of-control-delicious Center City boutique houses the newest looks from Opening Ceremony, Sigerson Morrison and many more. Long in the Tooth 2027 Sansom St., 215-569-1994 Bicycle Coalition of Greater Philadelphia 1500 Walnut St., Suite 1107, 215-242-9253, bicyclecoalition.org Breakaway Bikes 1923 Chestnut St., 215-568-6002, breakawaybikes.com Built in 1912, this is one of the oldest non-professional theaters still in use in the U.S. The Print Center 1614 Latimer St., 215-735-6090, printcenter.org Catering to hipsters and old-heads alike, Long in the Tooth sells new and used vinyl records, CDs and tapes with an emphasis on hardcore, punk, indie rock and jazz. Omoi 1608 Pine St., 215-545-0963, omoionline.com Frankinstien Bikeworx Schuylkill Banks 1529 Spruce St., 215-893-0415, frankinstienbikeworx.com 25th and Locust streets, 215-222-6030, schuylkillbanks.org Rosenbach Museum & Library 2008 Delancey Place, 215-732-1600, rosenbach.org Houses rare books and manuscripts, plus an extensive Maurice Sendak collection. Roxy Theatre 2023 Sansom St., 215-923-6699 Off the beaten shopping path, Omoi specializes in Japanese pop culture. SA VA 1700 Sansom St., 215-587-0004, savafashion.com Rittenhouse Square Fitness Club 2002 Rittenhouse Square, 215-985-4095, ritfit.com An old-timey movie theater in the heart of Center City. Suzanne Roberts Theatre 480 S. Broad St., 215-985-0420, philadephiatheatrecompany.org Focusing on sustainable "ethiquette," Sarah Van Aken's shop won Philadelphia magazine's "Best New Boutique" award in 2010. Square Peg Artery 108 S. 20th St., 215-360-5548, squarepegartery.com Home of the Philadelphia Theatre Co., this 365seat proscenium theater opened in 2007. Consignment shop filled with hidden treasures, from reclaimed art to quirky accessories. 46 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 THE HOODS photo by Neal Santos O'Neals 611 S. Third St., 215-574-9495, onealspub.com SOCIETY HILL/SOUTH STREET EAST AT THE INTERSECTION OF YOUNG BLOOD AND OLD MONEY. South Street from Front to Broad still attracts the young and restless to its gum-tree corners, shows at the TLA and late-night pizza at Lorenzo's. Because it's always a buzzing hive of activity, police presence is more pronounced on South than perhaps any other street in the city. A smattering of classier joints and local institutions live on the eastern edge of the 'hood and through quietly ritzy Society Hill, a dense residential zone of neatly appointed trinity rowhomes. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... Headhouse Farmers Market Xochitl's entire menu for half-price every Thursday after 10 p.m. Zagar's Magic Gardens Via Bicycle Tattooed Mom's never changes YOU SHOULD KNOW ... The South Street Headhouse District (southstreet.com) provides a comprehensive business directory; through 2011, Frank DiCicco is the City Councilman repping the First District (215-686-3458). EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS The Artful Dodger Make your way to a patio table in O'Neals' quaint backyard. The pub also offers free WiFi access for fantasy football fans who like drinking and drafting. Tattooed Mom's 530 South St., 215-238-9880 This classic South Street dive, a destination for TLA pregamers, augments its weird-grandma'sparlor d�cor with a friendly staff, insanely cheap drink deals and weekly theme nights (Taco Tuesday!). RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Alyan's 603 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3553 400 S. Second St., 215-922-1790 This small, friendly Headhouse Square bar specializes in consistent, affordable English pub fare and brown liquors. Copabanana 344 South St., 215-923-6180, copabanana.com Kibbeh, baba ganoush and hummus deck the house pita sandwiches, large enough to justify eating under the back room's skylight. Blackbird 507 S. Sixth St., 215-625-6660, blackbirdpizzeria.com The original Copabanana is a South Street staple for its everlasting Mardi Gras atmosphere. Dark Horse Pub 421 S. Second St., 215-928-9307, darkhorsepub.com This hopping pizzeria dishes out a Philly-inspired menu of pizzas and sandwiches that are 100 percent vegan and kosher. Bodhi 410 S. Second St., 215-239-2928, bodhiphiladelphia.com Celebrating England and Ireland via heavy stouts, shepherd's pie and footy on the telly. Fluid 221 South St., 215-440-4242, fluidnightclub.com This artsy caf� brews Stumptown coffee along with a light menu of organic, local fare. Brauhaus Schmitz 718 South St., 267-909-8814, brauhausschmitz.com Hip-hop, new wave, reggae, punk rock, soul -- you name it, this night club's spinning it. Laff House 611 S. Third St., 215-574-9495, laffhouse.com A comedy club featuring standup nearly every Friday and Saturday. This 20-tap Teutonic drinker's haven is heavy on German (Jever, Reissdorf, Spaten, Paulaner, etc.) as well as the Hausbrau, a crisp lager brewed for the bar by Stoudt's. CITYPAPER.NET 47 THE HOODS: SOCIETY HILL/SOUTH STREET EAST Bridget Foy's 200 South St., 215-922-1813, bridgetfoys.com Marrakesh Eat outdoors at Bridget Foy's to get your South Street pedestrian ambience undiluted. Burger.Org Entertaining Philadelphia for 25 years. And counting. 517 S. Leithgow St., 215-925-5929, marrakesheastcoast.com 326 South St., 267-639-3425 hours before dining at this multi-course Moroccan mainstay. Percy Street Barbecue 900 South St., 215-625-8510, percystreet.com FALL SPLENDOR FROM THE WATER. Celebrate the change of seasons aboard the renovated Spirit of Philadelphia. Indulge in endless buffets, magnificent views, lively entertainment and dancing aboard our comfortable climate-controlled decks. Our vibrant vessel is perfect for any occasion. Offering festive Brunch, Lunch & Dinner Cruises year-round. This all-organic burger joint looks to satisfy more than just the beef eaters -- the menu, which tops out at $9.99, offers free-range turkey, free-range Fez Moroccan Cuisine Aside from brisket, the star of Texas barbecue, Percy's doing pork spare ribs and pork belly, chicken and a killer sausage. Pizzeria Stella 215 Lombard St., 215-320-8000, pizzeriastella.net 620 S. Second St., 215-925-5367, fezrestaurant.com Servers explain each course (eight in all), as well as the traditions, like pre- and post-meal hand washing. Gnocchi 613 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-592-8300 there's a not lot of flash here -- the focus is on the food. S&H Kebab House 611 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-639-3214, kebabhouseonline.com This quaint BYOB features house-made pasta served with simple, fresh ingredients. Headhouse Farmers Market Second and Lombard streets, thefoodtrust.org Make an unforgettable fall memory. 866.211.3808 SpiritOfPhiladelphia.com Cruising year-round from Penn's landing. Local food purveyors at this weekend summer market include A.T. Buzby produce, John & Kira's chocolate, Patches of Star cheese and many more. Hot Diggity 630 South St., 267-886-9253 thehotdiggity.com When not expanding their empire, the Ottomans clearly spent time perfecting their cooking. Grab authentic Turkish, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine here. South Street Souvlaki 509 South St., 215-925-3026 An Entertainment Cruises Company. With a creative menu that runs the gamut from traditional to kooky, the folks at this hot dog joint remind us that wieners can be fun and delicious. Ishkabibbles Eatery 337 South St., 215-923-4337 Philadelphia's oldest Greek establishment features award-winning gyros served alongside a tasty melange of veggies with yogurt sauce. Supper 926 South St., 215-592-8180, supperphilly.com Spanish fries or cheese fries? Many patrons of this decades-old cheesesteak institution have trouble deciding between the two. Jim's Steaks 400 South St., 215-928-1911, jimssteaks.com This modern American cuisine is more lavish than a typical dinner with the fam, but the urban farmhouse setting makes you feel right at home. Xochitl 408 S. Second St., 215-238-7280, xochitlphilly.com Tourists have waited in obscenely long lines for these steaks since 1939, and for good reason. Las Bugambilias 148 South St., 215-922-3190, lasbugambiliasphilly.com Bartenders whip up inspired cocktails, guacamole's made table-side and tequilas are available in tasting flights. MUSIC The Legendary Dobbs 304 South St., 215-501-7288, dobbsphilly.com Rather than focus exclusively on one region, the cooking at Las Bugambilias crisscrosses through Veracruz, Oaxacan and Yucatan cuisines. The Latest Dish 613 S. Fourth St., 215-629-0565, latestdish.com Home to live performances since 1974, Dobbs also features aptly named entrees such as the "shred zeppelin." The TLA 334 South St., 215-922-1011, livenation.com A cozy off-South Street option serving fancierthan-average diner fare and a beer list that'll rival any of the surrounding pubs. Lorenzo & Son Pizza 305 South St., 215-627-4110 Audiences cram into this South Street mainstay for close encounters with national and underground acts. ARTS + CULTURE Eyes Gallery Stop by for a ubiquitous South Street slice -- just don't try to order pepperoni. Lovash 236-238 South St., 215-925-3881, lovashrestaurant.com 402 South St., 215-925-0193, eyesgallery.com Get lost inside this South Street quirkerie, selling everything from masks and ceramics to textiles and furniture. Infinite Body Piercing 626 S. Fourth St., 215-923-7335, infinitebody.com Craving authentic Indian cuisine but don't have the time for a sit-down meal? Try out their online delivery service. If you've got it, this long-running body-mod shop will put a ring, or a stud, or a barbell in it. No Ka Oi Tiki Tattoo 610 S. Fourth St., 215-925-1766, nokaoitikitattoo.com Get inked or pierced at this Hawaiian-themed tattoo parlor. Philadelphia Eddie's Tattoo 607 S. Fourth St., 215-829-9833, philadelphiaeddiestattoo.com One of the most trusted names in Philly tattoos. Philadelphia's Magic Gardens 1020 South St., 215-733-0390, phillymagicgardens.org Isaiah Zagar's ever-growing masterpiece is a wonderland of broken glass. Shubin Theatre 407 Bainbridge St., 215-592-0119, phillyimprovtheater.com A wide variety of shows are performed for an intimate, 43-seat audience. Society Hill Dance Academy 409 S. Second St., 215-574-3574, societyhilldance.com Learn the fox trot or rent out the space for a private party. Society Hill Playhouse 507 S. Eighth St., 215-923-0210, societyhillplayhouse.org Enjoy new comedies and old favorites in a theater with a century of history. SHOPPING Crash Bang Boom COME ENJOY HEALTHY MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE FRESH, AUTHENTIC, MOUTHWATERING MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE WILL HAVE YOUR PALATE DANCING! GREEK SHRIMP TO MUSSELS LAMB CHOPS TO KABOBS MOUSAKA TO SPANAKOPITA HUMMUS TO STUFFED PEPPERS VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN ENTREES OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER TUESDAY-SUNDAY 528 S. Fourth St., 215-928-1123, crashbangboomonline.com From chokers to leather jackets to studs, they've got every punk rocker covered. Repo Records 538 South St., 215-627-3775, reporecords.com Open in this location since 1998, this shop specializes in new and used CDs and vinyl. Retrospect 508 South St., 267-671-0116, retrospectvintage.com Carefully selected vintage clothing accessories for men and women. Wooden Shoe Books and 704 South St., 215-413-0999, woodenshoebooks.com An "all-volunteer anarchist collective" that sells books and records and hosts regular readings and author events. PARKS + REC Old Pine Community Center 401 Lombard St., 215-627-2493, oldpinecommunitycenter.org Starr Garden Rec Center Via Bicycle Sixth and Lombard streets, 215-686-1782 606 S. Ninth St., 215-627-3370, bikeville.com SOUTH STREET SOUVLAKI 509 SOUTH STREET PHILADELPHIA 215.925.3026 THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos Uncles 1220 Locust St., 215-546-6660, unclesupstairsinn.com THE GAYBORHOOD/MIDTOWN VILLAGE SOMEWHERE UNDER THE RAINBOW. Bordered by Washington Square and the Avenue of the Arts, 13th Street serves as the beating rainbow heart of this up-and-coming 'hood. Also known as Midtown Village, the Gayborhood has undergone a recent revival, in part thanks to power couple Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran and their spate of fun restaurants and shops. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... El Vez for the blood-orange margaritas and a trip to the black-and-white film photobooth Capogiro Gelato Artisans; try the divine cioccolato scuro Zavino and Barbuzzo in a new-wave pizza face-off Woody's or Sisters YOU SHOULD KNOW ... To find out more about what's happening in the Gayborhood, check out the Midtown Village Association (midtownvillage.org); for political concerns, contact First District City Councilman Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458) through 2011. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Dirty Frank's 347 S. 13th St., 215-732-5010 Uncles sort of looks like the gayest Jimmy Buffett party ever, with decorative palm trees, a rainbow flag draped across the entrance and large opened windows for a nice breeze. Voyeur Nightclub 1221 St James St., 215-735-5772, voyeurnightclub.com This LGBTQ-friendly club hosts weekly events, drink specials and private parties. Woody's Bar 202 S. 13th St., 215-545-1893, woodysbar.com The bartenders always know your name -- and your drink -- at this quintessential dive bar. ICandy 254 S. 12th St., 267-324-3500, clubicandy.com One of the most popular gay clubs in Philly, but the name is recognizable to those of any sexual orientation. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Am�s One of the newest gay nightclubs in Philadelphia, ICandy is a multi-level experience complete with extensive bar, dancefloor and roof deck. Sisters 1320 Chancellor St., 215-735-0735, sistersnightclub.com 412 S. 13th St., 215-732-AMIS, amisphilly.com Marc Vetri's third Philly restaurant is a casual paean to the neighborhood trattoria of Rome. Barbuzzo 110 S. 13th St., 215-546-9300, barbuzzo.com Karaoke, live music, theme parties and movie screenings keep this bar busy seven days a week. Tabu 200 S. 12th St., 215-964-9675, tabuphilly.com Tabu's commitment to "happy beyond happy hour" ensures good times for all patrons. Tria 1137 Spruce St., 215-629-9200, triacafe.com Culling influences from throughout the Mediterranean, the menu touches on seafood (grilled octopus with piri piri oil; wood-roasted Portuguese sardines) plus housemade pastas, pizza and charcuterie. Capogiro 119 South 13th St., 215-351-0900, capogirogelato.com Tria is a fermentables-focused bar specializing in thoughtful wine, beer and cheese selections. More than 240 different flavors of frozen treats made with organic fruit, nuts and herbs. 50 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 The Corner 102 S. 13th St., 215-735-7500, thephillycorner.com The Corner boasts thoughtful bespoke cocktails and high-end comfort food. El Vez 121 S. 13th St., 215-928-9800, elvezrestaurant.com spot draws Philly faithful from all over the city for its affordable Indian cuisine. Opa 1311 Sansom St., 215-545-0170, opaphiladelphia.com programming and even the occasional basementswimming-pool dance performance. Giovanni's Room 345 South 12th St., 215-923-2960, giovannisroom.com Queso fundido is a guilty pleasure designed to be mopped up with fluffy, light tortillas. The Farm and Fisherman 1120 Pine St., 267-687-1555, thefarmandfisherman.com Modern Greek cuisine includes dishes like braised rabbit, souvlakia and funky-fresh kokoretsi. Sampan 124 S. 13th St., 215-732-3501, sampanphilly.com An LGBTQ bookstore with regular author talks and other events. SHOPPING Matthew Izzo A true farm-to-table that sources ever-changing, always-seasonal ingredients from local growers. Garces Trading Co. 1111 Locust St., 215-574-1099, garcestradingcompany.com This Gayborhood mecca for contemporary Asian fare just launched a dim sum brunch made up of sought-after small plates. Spruce Street Espresso 1101 Spruce St., 215-609-4469, sprucestreetespresso. wordpress.com 111 S. 12th St., 215-829-0606, matthewizzo.com Chic threads and sexy minimalist furniture by the Philly art institution. Open House 107 S. 13th St., 215-922-1415, openhouseliving.com The Iron Chef's foray into the gourmet market game. Last Drop 1300 Pine St., 215-893-9262, Dispensing Counter Culture java in the heart of the Gayborhood. Valanni 1229 Spruce St., 215-790-9494, valanni.com Modern urban designs in furniture and ephemera for kitchen, bath, baby and more. TrickGo 1135 Pine St., 215-238-1207, trickgo.com One of the first coffeehouses to get Philly on the coffee kick, Last Drop is the quintessential slacker hangout. Marabella Meatball Co. 1211 Walnut St., 215-238-1833, marabellameatballco.com Valanni features refined Medi-Latin cuisine; half of the restaurant now bills itself as a "social night spot," hosting happy hours and special events. Vetri 1312 Spruce St., 215-732-3478, vetriristorante.com College students run this unconventional boutique/gallery space where everything from T-shirts to art prints is for sale. Verde 108 S. 13th St., 215-546-8700, verdephiladelphia.com A marinara-red charmer with seating for 30 and enough meatballs to feed the Roman army. Mercato 1216 Spruce St., 215-985-2962, mercatobyob.com Marc Vetri's eponymous restaurant is still one of the hottest tickets in town; people call ahead of time to taste his calamari torta. Zavino 112 S. 13th St., 215-732-2400, zavino.com Dealing exclusively in flowers, gifts and artisan chocolate. PARKS + REC 12th Street Gym 204 S. 12th St., 215-735-8786, 12streetgym.com Few places capture the essence of Philly's BYOB culture quite like Mercato, with its cozy atmosphere, casual vibe and open kitchen. Minar Palace 1304 Walnut St., 215-546-9443, minarphilly.com At Zavino's polished, narrow space, check out pies like the polpettini or the fratello. ARTS + CULTURE Gershman Y Louis I. Kahn Memorial Park 1119 Pine St., kahnpark.tripod.com This wildly popular Indian restaurant/takeout 401 S. Broad St., 215-545-4400, gershmany.org CITYPAPER.NET 51 THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos CHINATOWN/LOFT DISTRICT AT THE CENTER OF CONVENTION CENTEROPOLIS. Just blocks from City Hall, goggling tourists, branded conventioneers, suicide taxis and fuming delivery trucks all swim upstream into the vortex of 11th and Arch streets, where the Reading Terminal Market meets Chinatown. Bound tightly by Eighth and 12th streets from Arch to Vine, the 'hood is a spicy blend of cheap and delicious restaurants, entertainment (shows at the Troc!) and culture shock. Suck up noodles at Pho 75 or try the thousand-layer bread at Rangoon, but don't miss a photo op with the Friendship Arch or the Chinese New Year parade every spring. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... at Tai Lake (the seafood rolls are swimming when you arrive) Reading Terminal Market deals in fast lunches and diverse groceries, plus killer peoplewatching Space 1026 houses artists' studios and is always good for a gallery show Fabric Workshop Hand Drawn Noodle House 52 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Banana Leaf 1009 Arch St., 215-592-8288 YOU SHOULD KNOW ... The Philadelphia Chinatown Development Corp. (chinatown-pcdc.org) provides resources on community programs; through 2011, Chinatown is represented in the First District by Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458). EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS The Institute Bar The huge dining room can service tons of people, and fast, with sweet and savory dishes emerging from the steam and clatter of the open stainless steel kitchen. The Roti Canai appetizer is not to be ignored. Caf� Lift 428 N. 13th St., 215-922-3031, cafelift.com This Loft District hideaway is worth the trek for a triple threat of tasty food, friendly service and unique atmosphere. Delilah's Southern Cuisine Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch streets, 215-574-0929, readingterminalmarket.org 549 N. 12th St., 267-318-7772, institutebar.com A comfortably sized bilevel bar serving up local and international brews. Prohibition Taproom 501 N. 13th St., 215-238-1818, theprohibitiontaproom.com It's said that this bar was run as an illegal speakeasy back in the day. Now it's a friendly gastropub with tasty, reliable food and drink. Yakitori Boy 211 N. 11th St., 215-923-8088, yakitoriboy-japas.com Delilah Winder's mac 'n' cheese, made from scratch with Gruyere and asiago, was voted best in the country by Oprah Winfrey in 2003 and was featured in an episode of the Food Network's Throwdown with Bobby Flay. Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House 927 Race St., 215-923-1550 Nan Zhou Yakitori Boy considers itself a "Japas" -- Japanese tapas -- restaurant. The downstairs space features a full sushi bar, drinkin' bar and yakitori bar; upstairs is the karaoke bar, with a huge booze list to fuel your inner rock star. We'd pay the $5.25 just to watch the guy in the back window whip and wrangle a fresh batch of this place's namesake soup component. New Harmony Vegetarian Restaurant 135 N. Ninth St., 215-627-4520, myspace.com/newharmony New Harmony is a meat avoider's wonderland, where inspired mock dishes intermingle with more traditionally veggie-riffic options. Ocean City 234 N. Ninth St., 215-829-0688, oceancityrestaurant.com Elegant but lively, this Hong Kong-style dim sum hall has vaulted ceilings, a giant flat-screen TV and a bustling crowd. Penang 117 N. 10th St., 215-414-2531, penangusa.com briny deep. Recommended for those not too skittish to pick out their own frog from the vivarium in the entranceway. Vietnam Restaurant 221 N. 11th St., 215-592-1163, eatatvietnam.com Fabric Workshop & Museum Marginal Utility 1214 Arch St., 215-561-8888, fabricworkshop.org 319 N. 11th St., 917-355-4487, marginalutility.org Pennsylvania Convention Center This eatery boasts a menu full of surprises, with a number of dishes so meta-scary, the menu requests that you ask your server for advice before ordering. We suggest you heed this advice. Pho Cali 1000 Arch St., 215-629-1888 Completely renovated into a tasteful evocation of old Saigon, Vietnam now has the proper background for its light, delicious cuisine. MUSIC Starlight Ballroom 1101 Arch St., 215-418-4700, paconvention.com Hosts the annual Philadelphia International Flower Show, whose theme for 2012 is "Islands of Aloha." Space 1026 1026 Arch St., 215-574-7630, space1026.com 460 N. Ninth St., 866-468-7619, r5productions.com This Vietnamese eatery in Chinatown shows a total dedication to pho in action, although that's not to say pho is the only thing worth ordering here. Rangoon 112 N. Ninth St., 215-829-8939, rangoonrestaurant.com Catch up-and-coming acts booked by R5 Productions, Punk Rock Flea Markets and more at this converted roller-skating rink. The Trocadero 1003 Arch St., 215-922-LIVE, thetroc.com Tiger Strikes Asteroid Vox Populi 319A N.11th St., 4th Floor, Suite 2H 319 N. 11th St., 3rd Floor, 215-238-1236, voxpopuligallery.org Local and national bands from all over come to this former burlesque house to show Philly what they've got. ARTS + CULTURE The African American Museum in Philadelphia 701 Arch St., 215-574-0380 SHOPPING Abakus Takeout Rangoon offers traditional Burmese dishes like chili shrimp, thousand-layer bread with potato curry dip, vegetarian keema and spinach salad. Reading Terminal Market 12th and Arch streets, 215-922-2317, readingterminalmarket.org 227 N. 10th St., 215-351-7978, abakustakeout.com Don't let the playful exterior fool you -- this Chinatown streetwear boutique serves up limited-edition sneaks and designer denim, not Chinese food. AIA Bookstore & Design Center 1218 Arch St., 215-569-3188, aiabookstore.com Art Underground at the Wolf Building Featuring more than 80 stalls and shops, the Reading Terminal Market dates back to 1892 when the Reading Railroad commissioned a food bazaar. A century later, the market continues to exhibit old and new culinary delights. Tai Lake Seafood Restaurant 134 N. 10th St., 215-922-0698, tailakeseafoodrest.com 340 N. 12th St., 215-407-0556, gasandelectricarts.org This huge converted warehouse hosts performing arts events throughout the year. Asian Arts Initiative Copy Gallery 1219 Vine St., 215-557-0455, asianartsinitiative.org 319 N. 11th St. 3rd Floor, copygallery.org Run by the Philly chapter of the American Institute of Architects, this shop carries books, gifts and toys for the design-minded Philadelphian. Tai Lake specializes in foods derived from the CITYPAPER.NET 53 THE HOODS photo by Neal Santos BELLA VISTA/QUEEN VILLAGE YOUR SOUTH PHILLY STARTER KIT. Taking up the space south of South and north of Washington, Queen Village (from Front to Sixth) and Bella Vista (from Sixth to 10th) have evolved from old-school Italian neighborhoods into some of the most desirable real estate in the city. From the yoga moms pushing strollers down the streets of pretty rowhouses to the endless quest for free street parking, this zone is Philly's Park Slope. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... Catahoula: $9 wins an entr�e, side and draft beer Kennett, a new contender in the gastropub game never get old at Dmitri's with river and I-95 views grocer Essene YOU SHOULD KNOW ... The Bella Vista United Civic Association (bvuca.org) and Queen Village Neighbors Association (qvna.org) are good places to start if you're seeking community involvement. Lifelong 54 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 New Wave Caf� 784 S. Third St., 215-922-8484, newwavecafe.com South Philly Democrat Frank CiCicco (215-6863458) has been repping the First District in City Council since 1996; he'll retire at the end of 2011. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS 12 Steps Down A friendly, low-key bar with a mild sports theme and a happily retro-new-wave jukebox. Royal Tavern 937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694, royaltavern.com Within an area known for its faux fleur-de-lisness, the Royal's spare nature is welcome. Wishing Well Public House 767 S. Ninth St., 215-238-6555, wishingwellphilly.com 831 Christian St., 215-627-9013, 12stepsdown.com The beer's cheap and the shots are generous. Chick's Caf� & Wine Bar 614 S. Seventh St., 215- 625-3700, chickscafe.com Featuring 12 taps and plenty of high-top seating; don't miss the scrapple-topped SHAME Burger. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Adsum The new Chick's retains the charm of its original cherry bar, with a menu to match. The Dive 947 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-5505 700 S. Fifth St., 267-888-7002, adsumrestaurant.com Front Street, replete The type of neighborhood bar you wished you had just around the corner from your place. L'Etage 624 S. Sixth St., 215-592-0656, creperie-beaumonde.com The d�cor's vintage university chic; the cocktails are bespoke; and the menu's teeming with clever comfort-foodie combinations. Bella Vista Beer Distributors 755 S. 11th St., 215-627-6465 The bar upstairs from Beau Monde contains this neighborhood's best crammed, sweaty dancefloor. Little Bar 738 S. Eighth St., littlebarphilly.com The 38,000-square-foot space carries around 1,100 beers -- if it's available in the state, they have it. Pick up a keg, a case or a sixer of high-end soda. Bibou 1009 S. Eighth St., 215-965-8290, biboubyob.com Taking over the old Vesuvio, Little Bar hosts live jazz in a cozy neighborhood atmosphere. Neighborhood sweetheart Bibou is the best French bistro is a city teeming with them. Bistrot La Minette 623 S. Sixth St., 215-925-8000, bistrotlaminette.com Paloma 763 S. Eighth St., 215-928-9500, palomafinedining.com Sweet Tooth Candy Shop 630 S. Fourth St., 215-923-8800, phillysweettooth.com Bistrot La Minette is a warm, intimate Francophilian restaurant that should delight anyone in search of refuge. Catahoula Bar and Restaurant 775 S. Front St., 215-271-9300, catahoularestaurant.com Paloma features high-concept takes on traditional Mexican street food. Sabrina's Caf� 910-912 Christian St., 215-574-1599, sabrinascafe.com shop that features more than 250 varieties. Tall Cow 616 S. Third St., 267-909-8195, tallcowshop.com Arguably the best brunch in town, the original creative menu at fantastic value. Sarcone's 734 S. Ninth St., 215-922-1717, sarconesdeli.com Expect flexible hours, and down-home Louisiana cooking. Cochon 801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-923-7675, cochonbyob.com This candy-colored shop is heaven for those seeking the perfect not-Hallmark card. Wilbur Vintage 716 S. Fourth St., 215-413-5809, wilburvintage.blogspot.com French bistro food gracefully, breathing just the right amount of freshness into old classics. Dmitri's 795 S. Third St., 215-625-0556 The quintessential Philly hoagie experience starts with the softest-on-the-inside, crustieston-the-outside rolls. Shot Tower Coffee 542 Christian St., 267-886-8049 Embroidered platforms, '60s-inspired dresses, that've gone in and out of style a dozen times -- you name it, Wilbur's acquired it. PARKS + REC Bardascino Park The original, teensy-as-all-get-out BYOB Dmitri's is the perfect place for flawless seafood. Essene Market 719 S. Fourth St., 215-922-1146, essenemarket.com/index.php This prohibition-era-inspired caf� is the perfect place to get a friendly jolt. Southwark 701 S. Fourth St., 215-238-1888 10th and Carpenter streets, bardascinopark.org Bicycle Revolutions 756 S. Fourth St., 215-629-2453, bicyclerevolutions.com This natural-foods store features vegan and macrobiotic grocery goodies, plus vitamins, housewares, cosmetics, bulk foods -- and even shoes. Famous 4th Street Delicatessen 700 S. Fourth St., 215-922-3274 The menu is seasonal, original -- and global, as well. From the list of desserts, we can't resist Southwark's homemade ice cream. ARTS + CULTURE Da Vinci Art Alliance 704 Catharine St., 215-829-0466, davinciartalliance.org Palumbo Rec Center 10th and Fitzwater streets, palumbosoccer.org Nobody knows Jewish-Euro noshing like this deli just south of South. Come hungry -- the portions are right outta your pushy mother's kitchen. Golosa Caf� 806 S. Sixth St., 215-925-1003, golosacafe.com Fleisher Art Memorial 719 Catharine St., 215-922-3456, fleisher.org Regular exhibits and a slew of art classes keep this spot thriving. Pageant : Soloveev 607 Bainbridge St., 215-925-1535, pageantsoloveev.com Skip the Whitman's box and opt for the real thing. Hawthornes 738 S. 11th St., 215-627-3012, hawthornecafe.com Society Hill Playhouse Perhaps the coolest feature in the space is a custom gizmo that allows the owners to pressurefill 64-ounce growlers with hard-to-find craft beers -- think Russian River and Lost Abbey. John's Water Ice 701 Christian St., 215-925-6955, johnswaterice.com 507 S. Eighth St., 215-923-0210, societyhillplayhouse.org This Victorian-style venue hosts many new comedies and East Coast premi�res. Shubin Theatre 407 Bainbridge St., 215-413-1318, phillyimprovtheater.com Old-school water ice so enticing, it warranted a visit from Barack Obama. (He got the lemon, FYI.) Kennett Restaurant 848 S. Second St., 267-687-1426, kennettrestaurant.com The home of Philly Improv Theater has a teeny stage that's perfect for audience participation. SHOPPING Bus Stop Reopening the 1924 establishment, this sustainability-focused spot brings a creative edge to the local food scene. Little Fish 746 S. Sixth St., 267-455-0127, littlefishbyob.com 750 S. Fourth St., 215-627-2357, busstopboutique.com The only Philly shoe store Carrie Bradshaw would realistically set her Manolos in. Community 712 S. Fourth St., 267-861-0544 Once voted one of the top seafood restaurants in America, this BYO is a must for fans of fish. Monsu 901 Christian St., 215-440-0495 Artistic skate boards and boutique BMX bikes fill this Fourth Street space. Passional 704 S. Fifth St., 215-829-4986, passionalboutique.com Cooking with spices from across the globe, this "Unmentionable" takes on new meaning at this sassy boutique whose tagline says it all: "Corsets. Passion. Fashion." Philly AIDS Thrift 710 S. Fifth St., 215-922-3186, phillyaidsthrift.com Morning Glory Diner 735 S. 10th St., 215-413-3999, themorningglorydiner.com If you've never tried a veggie burger, this is the place to do it -- and don't forget to ask for a side of homemade ketchup. This nonprofit -- in a brand-new space the size of a freakin' warehouse -- hawks all sorts of donated goodies; proceeds go to local HIV/AIDS orgs. THE HOODS photo by Neal Santos Ten Stone 2063 South St., 215-735-9939, tenstone.com GRADUATE HOSPITAL/GRAYS FERRY/SOUTH STREET WEST YOUR SOUTH PHILLY STARTER KIT. A compact, largely residential quadrant which reaches from South to Washington and from Broad to Gray's Ferry Avenue, the area jokily called G-Ho has everything but the Graduate Hospital it was named for, which closed in 2007. Though less heavily trafficked by pedestrians than the east side of South, the street does serve as the commercial hub of the 'hood, which grows more residential and slightly sketchier as you travel south. Some of that sketch is being drawn over in Grays Ferry, where the sounds of construction are putting affordable properties in the spotlight. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... at Grace Tavern are so addictive? Oh, hell, get the fries, too Fanny's ethereal cr�pes at Caf� L'Aube projects at Loop Bob & Barbara's YOU SHOULD KNOW ... Thank the Grays Ferry Community Council (graysferrycc.org) for all that new development. Graduate Hospital falls within the city's Second District, represented through 2011 by Councilwoman Anna Verna (215-686-3412). EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Grace Tavern Warm lighting, tons of tables, an extensive beer list, occasional live music and good, unpretentious food (try the focaccia) make Ten Stone a worthwhile visit. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Ants Pants Cafe 2212 South St., 215-875-8002, antspantscafe.com This tiny Aussie coffeehouse greets you with glass cases full of cookies, scones, muffins and cakes. The hybrid breakfast/lunch menu features intriguing variations on typical caf� fare. Beauty Shop Caf� 2001 Fitzwater St., 215-546-1002, beautyshopcafe.com Beauty Shop is the first caf� in the city to carry beans roasted by Chestnut Hill Coffee Co. Caf� l'Aube 1512 South St., 215-546-1550, cafelaube.com 2229 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-893-9580, gracetavern.com Vintage beauty aside, Grace offers an impressive beer selection and delectable grub. Jet Wine Bar 1525 South St., 215-735-1116, jetwinebar.com Penn archaeologist Jill Weber's swanky bilevel lounge features wine selections from across the globe and a light menu of cheese and charcuterie. Resurrection Ale House 2425 Grays Ferry Ave., 215-735-2202, resurrectionalehouse.com Jean-Luc Fanny occasionally pops in to whip up cr�pes and waffles (and slender French-style sandwiches) that are better than just about any in town. Divan Turkish Kitchen 918 S. 22nd St., 215-545-5790, divanturkishkitchen.com Tritone on punk rock karaoke night, complete with live backing band The beer list here is kick-ass: 13 fairly priced drafts, plus a few dozen up-market bottles dominated by Belgian imports. Sidecar Bar & Grille 2201 Christian St., 215-732-3429, thesidecarbar.com When it comes to laid-back comfort and straightforward, unpretentious flavors, siblings Ilker and Fulya Ugur have concocted a formula that serves them well in this rapidly changing part of town. Govinda's Gourmet Vegetarian 1408 South St., 215-985-9303, govindasvegetarian.com Miller High Life specials coexist with a craft brew-leaning draft selection and smarter-thanyour-average bar eats. Open since 1985, this fine-dining BYOB was vegetarian before being veggie was all the rage. Don't have time to sit? Stop in to their to-go spot next door. 56 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 Healthy Bites To-Go 2521 Christian St., 215-259-TOGO, healthybitesdelivery.com Pumpkin 1713 South St., 215-545-4448, pumpkinphilly.com Tritone This cozy corner space across Grays Ferry Avenue offers soups and sandwiches to go, plus rotating pre-prepared specialties to take home for dinner. Everything will reflect the owner/chef/ dietician Katie Cavuto Boyle's fresh/healthy/ local approach. Jamaican Jerk Hut 1436 South St., 215-545-8644, jajerkhut.com Pumpkin lights a beacon of BYOB excellence on South Street West: The service is perfect and the setup is thoughtful down to the smallest details. A block away, Pumpkin Market (1610 South St., 215-545-3924) offers locally sourced sandwiches, soups, smoothies and more. Sawatdee 1501 South St., 215-790-1299 1508 South St., 215-545-0475, tritonebar.com An eclectic and diverse mix of folk, jazz, DJ and rock acts available for a minimal cover charge almost every day of the week. SHOPPING Girl.Bike.Dog. 625 South 23rd St., 215-253-8364, girlbikedog.com A casual BYOB on South, the Jerk Hut combines authentic Caribbean food with outdoor seating, making the restaurant a delightful place for a summer dinner. La Va Caf� 2100 South St., 215-545-1508, lava-cafe.com Brand-new Thai BYO Sawatdee (Thai for "hello") serves affordable lunch and dinner fare, from tom kha gai to multicolored curries. Sweet Freedom 1424 South St., 215-545-1899, sweetfreedombakery.com You'll never guess the target audience of this G-Ho shop: girls who ride bikes and have dogs -- and who want to look cute while doing it. Loop 1914 South St., 215-893-9939, loopknits.com La Va has become a prime destination for any caffeine buzz-craving local with a laptop. OCF Coffee House 1745 South St., 215-735-7368 The egg-, sugar-, dairy- and gluten-free sweets offered at this quaint caf� and bakery are just as delicious as their junk-food counterparts -- and they won't zap you into a sugar coma. MUSIC Bob & Barbara's Lounge 1509 South St., 215-545-4511 Been considering a knitting habit? This South Street yarn shop sells everything you could possibly need to get hooked. Spool 1912 South St., 215-545-0755, store.spoolsewing.com Loop's fabric-focused sister store also offers sewing classes for beginners and pros alike. PARKS + REC Julian Abele Park Counter Culture coffee, Four Worlds Bakery breads and Sweet Life treats. Phoebe's Bar-B-Q 2214 South St., 215-546-4811, phoebesbbq.com The live entertainment at this South Street staple is as diverse as the Pabst-chugging clientele -- catch jazz acts, drunken spelling bee contests and a weekly drag show hosted by Miss Lisa Lisa. 22nd and Carpenter streets, julianabelepark.org Marian Anderson Recreation Center Bicycle Therapy 744 South 17th St., 215-413-1318, mariananderson.org 2211 South St., 215-735-7849, bicycletherapy.com Strictly a takeout and delivery joint proffering all manner of barbecued delights. The rotisserie chicken is an absolute must. great beer, wine & spirits Blackened Green Beans THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos SOUTH PHILLY WIT' OR WIT'OUT? Attempting to define the huge swath of city south of Washington between the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers is like trying to put a hairnet on a Hell's Angel: unnecessary and dangerous. Pennsport, Southwark, Wharton, Newbold, LoMo ... with so many neighborhoods, trying to apply just one adjective to big, bad 'ol Souf Philly is an exercise in failure. That said, if you yell, "Yo, Antny!" at any corner, someone will turn around; bread is serious business; and yes, you can actually park legally in the middle of Broad Street. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... attytood are always on tap at Nick's Roast Beef ramps at FDR Park, or pedal around the lake the park is known for (mind the snakefish) game at airy Citizens Bank Park Two Street after the Mummers Parade South Philly Tap Room YOU SHOULD KNOW ... Every microneighborhood in South Philly seems to have its own group, from the Lower Moyamensing Civic Association (lomophilly. org) to the Pennsport Civic Association 58 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 send-up, the Ugly American boasts a thoughtful list of domestic microbrews, plus inventive food that spins new takes on regional cuisine. Watkins Drinkery 1712 S. 10th St., 215-339-0175 Expect a local vibe with a surprising menu. Plus, happy hour is seven days a week. Show-offs. (pennsportcivic.org). First District Councilman Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458) and Second District Councilwoman Anna Verna (215-686-3412), both Democrats, have served South Philadelphia for years. Their terms are up at the end of 2011. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Devil's Den RESTAURANTS + MARKETS August 1247 S. 13th St., 215-468-5926, augustbyob.com Expect a menu featuring seasonal specialties -- plus a pumpkin pie that regulars keep insisting on. Ba Le 606 Washington Ave., 215-389-4350 1148 S. 11th St., 215-339-0855, devilsdenphilly.com A destination for a true suds-lover, Devil's Den features 20-ish beers on tap and 150-200 bottles in the cold case. Cheers! The Dolphin Tavern 1539 S. Broad St., 215-467-1752 Offering Vietnamese baked goods, grocery items, bubble teas and amazing banh mi on the cheap. Beer Heaven 1100 S. Columbus Blvd., Suite 23, 215-271-5248 Beer Heaven, in a nondescript strip mall on a busy byway, features an amazing selection of brews. Brew/Ultimo Coffee Bar 1900 S. 15th St., 215-339-5177, ultimocoffee.wordpress.com From the outside, the Dolphin looks like the kind of tiny, dingy dive bar where drinks are cheap and amateur strippers sometimes put on electrical tape and dance on wobbly tables. But it's actually quite large. South Philadelphia Tap Room 1509 Mifflin St., 215-271-7787, southphiladelphiataproom.com This pleasant little two-fer offers artisanal coffee, sandwiches and veggie delights -- plus microbrewed beers for mix-a-sixing. Caf� de Laos 1117 S. 11th St., 215-467-1546 The crown jewel of Newbold, the SPTR hosts a cross-section of South Philly drinkers: old and young, black and white, business and bohemian. And they all rave about the food, too. The Ugly American 1100 S. Front St., 215-336-1100, uglyamericanphilly.com Affordable and delicious Thai and Laotian in a neighborhood dominated by Vietnamese. Cacia's 1526 W. Ritner St., 215-334-1340, caciabakery.com More of a tongue-in-cheek celebration than a This fourth-generation brick-oven bakery has expanded its franchise in recent years, South Philly is still its homebase. Taste the cannoli. THE HOODS: SOUTH PHILLY Carman's Country Kitchen 1301 S. 11th St., 215-339-9613 Strange Brew Coffee 1321 S. Second St., 215-300-6216 CHI Movement Arts Center 1316 S. Ninth St., 267-687-3739, kunyanglin.org There are only about four tables and a half-dozen counter seats at this quirky brunch spot, but gracious owner Carman Luntzel always manages to fit in every last hungry customer. Circles 1514 Tasker St., 267-687-1778, circlesnewbold.com A newbie on a block that's seriously lacking in java, Strange Brew deals in "kick-ass coffee, good conversations, awesome artwork and some killer music." Taqueria La Veracruzana 908 Washington Ave., 215-465-1440 Home to Kun Yang-Lin Dancers, the CHI Movement Arts Center also hosts dance and other movement classes for all experience levels. Mummers Museum 1100 S. Second St., 215-336-3050, mummersmuseum.com Praised around the city for its intensely delicious pumpkin curry, Circles provides cheap Thai cuisine to the masses, with plenty of vegan options. Federal Donuts 1219 S. Second St., federaldonuts.com This no-frills Mexican joint does serious justice to the phrase "south of the border." Tony Luke's 39 East Oregon Ave,, 215-551-5725, tonylukes.com A museum space dedicated to celebrating one of Philly's strangest traditions. New Alhambra Arena 7 Ritner St., 215-755-0611, thearena.biz The new kid on the Pennsport block, Federal Donuts has a simple, three-pronged business plan that's bound to be a hit: Stumptown coffee, artisanal doughnuts and fried chicken. Green Eggs Caf� 1306 Dickinson St., 215-226-EGGS, greeneggscafe.net Self-style renaissance man Tony Luke has dipped his toe into movies and music, but nothing draws a crowd like his cheesesteaks. MUSIC Victor Caf� Hosts martial arts, concerts, boxing and pro wrestling events. The Rock School 1101 S. Broad St., 215-551-7010, therockschool.org A school for young dancers that puts on performances of such classics as The Nutcracker. Theatre Exile 1340 S. 13th St., 215-218-4022, theatreexile.org 1303 Dickinson St., 215-468-3040, victorcafe.com The "green" in the name refers to the owners' ecofriendly approach to doing business. The "eggs"? Self-explanatory. Grindcore House 1515 S. Fourth St., 215-839-3333, grindcorehouse.com Expect the usual -- an old-school Italian menu peppered with antipasti, daily fish specials and all manner of pasta -- and the unusual: This restaurant features live opera singing seven nights a week. Wells Fargo Center 3601 S. Broad St., 215-336-3600, wellsfargocenterphilly.com PARKS + REC Citizens Bank Park 1 Citizens Bank Park Way, 215-463-1000, citizensbank.com/ballpark A vegan coffee house in a surprising location, offering baked goods, java, movie screenings and art exhibits. Los Gallos 951 Wolf St., 215-551-1245 FDR Park Broad and Pattison streets, fdrskatepark.org When the Sixers and Flyers aren't battling it out, the large indoor venue hosts big national acts like Ke$ha and Paul McCartney. ARTS + CULTURE American Swedish Historical Museum 1900 Pattison Ave., 215-389-1776, americanswedish.org Lincoln Financial Field 1 NovaCare Way, 215-339-6700, lincolnfinancialfield.com Boasting incredibly cheap, delicious Mexican fare, from quesadillas to football-size tortas. SLiCE 1180 S. 10th St., 215-463-0868, slicepa.com This cash-only gourmet takeout joint has freshness on the brain. It's an odd location for a history museum, but that means the quirk factor is amped: Expect everything from crayfish parties to Swedish language classes, in addition to regular exhibits. CITYPAPER.NET 59 THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos Sticks & Stones 1909 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-964-9127 EAST PASSYUNK/ITALIAN MARKET WOULD YOU LIKE US TO COOK THAT FOR YOU? East Passyunk Avenue (say it: PASH-unk) runs in a northeastern diagonal line between Broad and South streets. For our purposes, we're considering the East Passyunk 'hood anything on the Avenue from Broad to Washington. In recent years, the children's boutiques and Italian restaurants that have occupied East Passyunk for decades have been joined by a grip of new bars and shops. A similar change has begun in the Italian Market, where the Ninth Street corridor below Washington would be better named the Mexican Market. The entire zone is a Bermuda Triangle of stellar food; eat everything you see. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... and don't sweat the calories YOU SHOULD KNOW ... For helpful resources and numbers, visit passyunksquare.org and italianmarketphilly. org. Your First District Councilman, until January 2012, is Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458). EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Lucky 13 Pub Check out 12 rotating taps at this Passyunk newbie, plus comfort foods and a few international flavors. Stogie Joe's 1801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-463-3030 Their pizza is backward (sauce on top, cheese on the bottom), but don't be alarmed -- it's intentional. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 943 943 S. Ninth St., 215-925-0900 1820 S. 13th St., 215-336-8467, lucky13pubphilly.com Homemade pasta and ravioli, Italian and Argentinian family recipes, casual family atmosphere, dinner during the week and brunch on the weekends, in the heart of the Italian Market. Anthony's Chocolate House 915 S. 9th St., 215-627-5080 P'unk Ave. is a friendly corridor for fans of good beer, so Lucky runs six mostly local brews on tap. Pub on Passyunk East 1501 East Passyunk Ave., 215-755-5125, pubonpassyunkeast.com Stogie Joe's pretzel at Center City Pretzel Co. from midnight to dawn DiBruno Bros., the heaviest-hitting cheese geeks in town P.O.P.E. vegan soft-serve at staple coffeehouse B2 60 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 The P.O.P.E. combines a mind-boggling draft selection (check the big chalk boards), killer bottle list (ask for the book), pub food and, on weekends, wall-to-wall skinny jeans and rompers. Ray's Happy Birthday Bar 1200 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-365-1169, thehappybirthdaybar.com Just a couple blocks from Anthony's coffeehouse counterpart, this is where Anthony flexes his chocolate muscle, specializing in chocolate covered anything and gelato. B2 1500 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5520 The menu at Benna's second shop is similar to the original, with soups, pastries and an expanded sandwich menu. Old City Coffee is still the java of choice. Black N Brew 1523 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-639-6070, blackbrew.net Ray's is a place where every man -- if only for a night -- can will himself into a chain-smoking, liquor-swilling, joke-peddling member of his own personal Rat Pack. You can't miss this funky-looking neighborhood corner coffee shop, or the Isaiah Zagar mosaic adorning its facade. The Bottle Shop 1837 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-5551, bottleshopbeer.com Fond 1617 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-5000, fondphilly.com A boutique beer haven stocked to the gills with mix-a-six-ables. Cannuli's 937 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2988, cannulismeats.com The pacing is as good as the food, and the down-toearth service bears the stamp of full investment. Fuel 1917 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-FUEL, fuelphilly.com fashioned machine asks you to leave details for Friday, Saturday or Sunday -- the only days it's open. If no one calls you back, you're good to go. Paesano's 1017 S. Ninth St., 215-440-0371, paesanosphillystyle.com The Italian Market spot to pick up a nice-lookin' piece of meat -- some veal, lamb, beef, poultry or even a whole hog for your spitfire, that is. Cantina Los Caballitos 1651 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-755-3550, cantinaloscaballitos.com After a few bites at Rocco Cima's healthconscious Passyunk Avenue spot, it's clear this Q102 personality knows how to rock more than one kind of mixer. Green Aisle Grocery 1618 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-465-1411, greenaislegrocery.com Recently relocated from Ninth and Christian, and with a second location on Girard Avenue, Paesano's is the place for true hoagie indulgence. Paradiso 1627 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-2066, paradisophilly.com The folks responsible for one South Philly favorite -- the Royal Tavern -- has another in the Cantina, located in the heart of Passyunk Avenue. Capogiro Gelateria 1625 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-462-3790 This elegant ristorante deals in simple Italian fare and fine wines. Pat's King of Steaks 1237 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-468-1546, patskingofsteaks.com This boutique grocery store carries specialized products that make the foodies swoon. Izumi 1601 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-1222, izumiphilly.com In South Philly's first Capogiro, local artisans restored the original counter stools to keep the gravy-ladling grandma charm alive. Claudio's 924-26 S. Ninth St., 215-627-1873, claudiofood.com South Philly couple Corey Baver and Lynn Rinaldi were tired of trekking to Morimoto or Sagami for sushi -- now their neighbors won't have to, either. Le Virtu 1927 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5626, levirtu.com Welcome to the Cheesesteak Capital of the Universe, located at the corner of Passyunk and Wharton in South Philly, where Pat's competes with blindingly neon Geno's. Plenty 1710 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-909-8033, plentyphiladelphia.com Boasting its status as King of Cheeses could invite some snickers, but Claudio's restores its dignity with an extensive menu of fresh specialty foods. DiBruno Bros. 930 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2876, dibruno.com Le Virt� has established itself as one of the finer destinations on an already-pretty fine stretch of restaurant-lined pavement on East Passyunk. Marra's 1734 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-463-9249, marraone.com Yes, there's always a line at this Italian Market mainstay, but the cheesemongers' dairy-based expertise/willingness to dole out gigantic samples explains it/makes it all worth it. Marra's set its roots in East Passyunk in 1927, making itself known for its thin-crust pizza. Mr. Martino's Trattoria 1646 Passyunk Ave., 215-755-0663 Tired of your same lame office luncheons? Let Plenty cater next time. They provide gourmet prepared foods and sandwiches with only local, in-season ingredients and meats smoked in-house. Eat-in and take-out options are available, too. Call for a reservation, and a voice on an oldCITYPAPER.NET 61 THE HOODS: EAST PASSYUNK/ITALIAN MARKET Rim Caf� 1172 S. Ninth St., 215-465-3515, rimcafe.com Rim Caf� is a gentle refuge from the city's gruff cheesesteak epicenter. Customers can get a jolt well into the evening, as the caf�'s open late. Salt & Pepper 1623 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-238-1920, saltandpepperphilly.com they've got a huge variety of utility belts, bags and other hand-stitched gear. Fante's 1006 S. Ninth St., 215-922-5557, fantes.com Sweet Jane Vintage 1742 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-339-0882 After recently moving from Fitzwater Street, this American bistro has expanded into a full restaurant and bar -- but hasn't changed its mission to keep its menu seasonal. MUSIC Connie's RicRac Head to Fante's to pick up the kitchenware that makes dinner possible -- they've got cake pans and espresso makers, pomegranate seed removers and frozen-herb mills. Metro Men's Clothing 1615 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-324-5172 Offering a mixture of 1970s vintage and designer brands, Sweet Jane Vintage is a must for hipster girls caught up in the rat race that is fashion. Philadelphia Scooters Inc. 1733 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-336-8255, philadelphiascooters.com They carry all the big names -- Genuine, Vespa, Kymco -- plus all of your accessory needs. Urban Jungle 1526 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-952-0811, urbanjunglephila.com Stylish duds for dapper dudes in the heart of East Passyunk. Molly's Books & Records 1010 S. Ninth St., 215-923-3367, mollysbookstore.com 1132 S. Ninth St., 215-279-7587, conniesricrac.com This up-and-comer was once an electronics store owned by Mrs. Tartaglia, until her sons did good and transformed it into a successful venue for local rock bands. She must be so proud. SHOPPING Chartreuse After adding records to their arsenal, Molly's has something for every hip vinyl revivalist -- but can still keep any bookworm busy. Nice Things Handmade 1731 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-455-0256 Pick up the tools needed for digging into the growing urban gardening scene. PARKS + REC Bell's Bike Shop 1320 E. Passyunk Ave., 888-901-9990, bellsbikeshop.com Capitolo Playground Fitness Works 1616 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-545-7711, chartreuseflorist.com Nice Things has more swank ceramics, jewelry, clothing, prints and other art from local artists than you'll even know what to do with. South Philly Comics 1621 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-318-7855, facebook.com/rko.south Ninth and Federal streets, 215-685-1883 Reed Street between Seventh and Eighth, 215-334-8190, fitnessworks.com Chartreuse draws upon a Parisian sensibility to create a beautiful floral shop brimming with international flower varieties and home d�cor crafted by local artists. Fabric Horse 1737 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-694-9034, fabrichorse.com Singing Fountain Park Tasker and East Passyunk avenues, epxcrossing.org South Philly Comics sells, well, comics, along with an array of nerd paraphernalia. They invented the U-Lock holster, and now 947 E. PASSYUNK AVE (7th & Carpenter) Facebook.com/thedivebar NEW AND IMPROVED 215.465.5505 citypaper.net Corner of 10th and Watkins Facebook.com/watkinsdrinkery 1712 South 10th 215.339.0175 THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos The Wine Thief 7152 Germantown Ave., 215-242-6700, winethiefbistro.com GERMANTOWN/MOUNT AIRY/CHESTNUT HILL OVER THE RIVER AND THROUGH THE WOODS. Though just a short regional rail trip off the grid, Chestnut Hill, Mount Airy and Germantown represent a charming, verdant respite from the urban grid while remaining part of the city. The three nabes are bounded by Stenton Avenue on the east and Wissahickon Creek on the west, and centered on Germantown Avenue. Chestnut Hill begins at the northern tip-top of city limits and runs down to Cresheim Valley Road; Mount Airy picks up where Chestnut Hill left off, extending to Washington Lane; and Germantown brings us on home at Wister Avenue. Tree-lined streets, lush parks, backyards with actual grass, plus handy proximity to the expansive Wissahickon Valley Trail make this one of Philly's prettiest places. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... institution McNally's Tavern The Little Treehouse The Furniture Workshop YOU SHOULD KNOW ... City Councilwoman Donna Reed Miller currently represents the Eighth District (215-686-3424); the Germantown Avenue Coalition (gtownave.com) promotes businesses and events along the Ave in all three neighborhoods. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Earth Bread + Brewery Serving continental comfort food in cozy Mount Airy -- plus an "extensive, inexpensive" wine list. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Avenida 7402 Germantown Ave., 267-385-6857, avenidarestaurant.com Led by a husband-and-wife team, this restaurant delivers an inventive menu from across LatinAmerica. Baker Street Bread Co. 8009 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2500, bakerstreetbread.com Get your carb-load on: Baker Street sells everything from focaccia and burger rolls to scones and baguettes. Cake 8501 Germantown Ave., 215-247-6887, cakeofchestnuthill.com 7136 Germantown Ave., 215-242-MOON, earthbreadbrewery.com Enough kettles and urns to serve up a changing roster of four housemade beers at a time. McMenamin's Tavern 7170 Germantown Ave, 215-247-9920 A bistro set in what once was a floral conservatory. Not surprisingly, ordering dessert is a must. Campbell's Place 8337 Germantown Ave., 215-242-1818, campbellsplace.com This is the perfect spot in Mount Airy to watch Philly sports. Whether you're in the mood to catch a game or not, McMenamin's chef is no joke, so the food won't disappoint. McNally's Tavern 8634 Germantown Ave., 215-247-9736, mcnallystavern.com A cozy neighborhood spot in Chestnut Hill boasting inventive specials for carnivores and vegetarians alike. Geechee Girl Rice Cafe 6825 Germantown Ave., 215-843-8113, geecheegirlricecafe.com Wissahickon Valley Trail -- just mind the horse apples Weavers Way Co-op for access to great whole foods at competitive prices Established in 1921, McNally's Tavern is a cozy place to sidle up with a pint of Guinness; the pub's also the home of infamously huge Schmitter, so come hungry. The emphasis here is on Southern cooking, although the menu features many an international option. CITYPAPER.NET 63 THE HOODS: GERMANTOWN/MOUNT AIRY/CHESTNUT HILL InFusion: A Coffee and Tea Gallery 7133 Germantown Ave., 215-248-1718, infusioncoffeeandtea.com Umbria 7131 Germantown Ave., 215-242-6470 Coffee, tea, poetry readings and art exhibits are all part of the scene at the mellow, relaxed InFusion. Mica 8609 Germantown Ave., 267-335-3912, micarestaurant.com A cheery little restaurant hugging the outskirts of Chestnut Hill, Umbria has been around for a while, dispensing the kind of food we used to call "continental." Fresh veggies, spirited combinations and extremely pleasant service merit return visits. Valley Green Inn W. Valley Green Road, 215-247-1730, valleygreeninn.com on their walls for established artists and up-andcomers. Doubles as a framing shop. Mount Airy Art Garage 542 W. Carpenter Lane, 215-247-5309, mtairyartgarage.org A Chestnut Hill newbie, Mica boasts a menu that's a lesson in intense creativity, from appetizer to dessert. Nile Caf� 6008 Germantown Ave., 215-843-4976 Besides its permanent exhibition space, MAAG rents out studios and encourages collaboration. Just earned nonprofit status in April 2010. Philadelphia School of Circus Arts 5900A Greene St., 215-849-1991, phillycircus.com This cozy, well-appointed spot in the woods is perfect for special-occasion dining. Weavers Way Co-Op 559 Carpenter Lane and 8424 Germantown Ave., 215-843-2350, weaversway.coop Nile Caf� offers a big selection of vegan and vegetarian entr�es, sandwiches, wraps and hoagies, plus non-dairy ice cream, desserts, juice and smoothies. Tiffin 7105 Emlen St., 215-242-3656, tiffin.com Take classes in juggling, unicycling, acrobatics -- just about everything under the big top. A clownfree zone. The Quintessence Theatre Group at Sedgwick Theater 7137 Germantown Avenue, 215-240-6055, quintessencetheatre.org These two neighboring locations of Weavers Way offer fresh produce and other grocery items, with a discount for members of the co-op. MUSIC The Mermaid Inn Aside from a small 28-seat dining room, this Mount Airy Tiffin satellite delivers perfectly proportioned boxed lunches and dinners to Philadelphia's hungry, curry-craving work force. Trolley Car Diner 7619 Germantown Ave., 215-753-1500, trolleycardiner.com This repertory company has moved into the Sedgwick and is dedicated to putting on classic plays all year long. The Stagecrafters Theater 8130 Germantown Ave., 215-247-8881, thestagecrafters.org 7673 Winston Road, 215-247-9797, themermaidinn.net Mostly local acts play this Chestnut Hill bar-andrestaurant combo nearly every night of the week. Patrons can show off their musical talents at regularly scheduled jam sessions. ARTS + CULTURE Chestnut Hill Gallery A theatrical mainstay going on 80 years. Woodmere Art Museum 9201 Germantown Ave., 215-247-0476, woodmereartmuseum.org Leave it to the Trolley to craft fluffy, gooey, perfectly cooked omelettes. Even the home fries are bangin'. 8117 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2549, chestnuthillgallery.com Joseph Borrelli and Suzanne Sheeder make space This ginormous Victorian mansion hosts handson workshops and some surprisingly daring painting exhibitions. SEEKING HEALTHY COLLEGE EDUCATED MALES AGE 18-39 Wyck Historic House 6026 Germantown Ave., 215-848-1690, wyck.org The verdant acreage around this colonial mansion boasts colorful gardens, a working farm and a bustling farmers' market. SHOPPING Artisans on the Avenue 440 Germantown Ave., 215-381-0582, artisansontheavenue.com Adorable boutique specializing in handmade clothes and jewelry. Chestnut Hill Bootery 8511 Germantown Ave., 215-247-0518 Shoes, part functional, part funky. Big Blue Marble Bookstore 551 Carpenter Lane, 215-844-1870, bigbluemarblebooks.com Independently owned, the Marble caters to niches: kids books, enviro bibles, feminist science fiction, etc. Hideaway Music 8612 Germantown Ave., 215-248-4434 A friendly place to buy used records. O'Doodle's Toy Store 8335 Germantown Ave., 215-247-7405, odoodles.com PARKS + REC Allens Lane Art Center Awbury Arboretum Cliveden Park Morris Arboretum 601 W. Allens Lane, 215-248-0546, allenslane.org 1 Awbury Road, 215-849-2855, awbury.org Chew Avenue and East Johnson Street, 215-568-0830 100 E. Northwestern Ave., 215-247-5777, morrisarboretum.org Philly Electric Wheels Wissahickon Cyclery Shelves and shelves of board games, craft kits and other non-electronic playthings. 550 Carpenter Lane, 215-821-9266, phillyew.com 7837 Germantown Ave., 215-248-2829, wiss-cycles.com The Little Treehouse 10 W. Gravers Lane, 215-247-3637, treehouseplaycafe.com THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos WEST PHILADELPHIA/UNIVERSITY CITY/SOUTHWEST PHILLY ALL OF THE ABOVE We won't get into the hairy debate over what's West Philly, what's University City and what's Southwest Philly, so consider U City centered around Penn and Drexel in the 30 and lower-40 streets, and the Southwest beginning somewhere just below Baltimore and heading all the way to the airport. Stuffed with college students from around the world, West Philly boasts a global array of cuisines. Lined with trees and gracious, spacious twin homes, the wide streets are welcoming in a way that only happens over the river, but be sure to mind the trolley tracks when biking Baltimore Avenue; catch a tire in there and you're curtains. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... Contemporary Art YOU SHOULD KNOW ... Founded in 1997, the University City District (universitycity.org) is the e-hub for all sorts of information, from hotels and restaurants to volunteering and public safety. West Philly is represented by Third District Councilwoman Jannie Blackwell (215-686-3418) through 2011; same goes for Anna Verna (215-686-3412), whose Second District extends to Southwest Philly. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS The Blockley beer on tap daily, this West Philly hang is a go-to for beer snobs and crust punks alike. Fiume 229 S. 45th St., myspace.com/fiume Above Ethiopian eatery Abyssinia, Fiume's a quintessential West Philly bar, known for its city specials and weekly bluegrass. Local 44 4333 Spruce St., 215-222-BEER, local44beerbar.com The beer selection at this West Philly spot (18 on tap, with two hand pumps) is in a league of its own. New Deck Tavern 3408 Sansom St., 215-386-4600, newdecktavern.com 38th and Ludlow streets, 3801 Chestnut St., 215-222-1234, theblockley.com Institute of Manakeesh Clark Park and shop the year-round Saturday farmers market City Tap House's 60 drafts Ethiopian food, but Kaffa Crossing is tops A pub and live music venue with room for 800, featuring eats like poutine and a New England clam roll. City Tap House 3925 Walnut St., 215-662-0105, citytaphouse.com The ivy-covered walls of New Deck house a pub where football (er, soccer) fans watch sports on television screens while sipping Guinness and eating bangers and mash. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Abyssinia 229 S. 45th St., 215-387-2424 Accessible via elevator, this University City bar/ restaurant/outdoor space has a selection of 60 beers on tap and fire pits to warm outdoor guests. Dock Street Brewing Co. 701 S. 50th St., 215-726-2337, dockstreetbeer.com Beloved for its crispy pizzas and six varieties of 66 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 When we crave Ethiopian and Eritrean food, we head straight for Abyssinia. Try the garlicky doro wat or any of the delicious vegetarian lentil- and bean-based dishes. Dahlak 4708 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-6464, dahlakrestaurant.com Lovers and Madmen 28 S. 40th St., 215-243-9851 Soleil de Minuit 5148 Locust St., 215-459-2255 Out-of-this-world Eritrean fare, plus a backyard bar where all West Philly walks of life meet for beers after hours. Desi Chaat House 501 S. 42nd St., 215-386-1999, desichaathouse.com This coffee house -- the name's inspired by a bit of dialogue from A Midsummer Night's Dream -- offers espresso and French press coffee from Counter Culture. Milk & Honey Market 4425 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-6455, milkandhoneymarket.com West Philly's Soleil de Minuit is the only established Malian restaurant in Philly; highlights include entr�es like tender lamb chops and blackened whole tilapia. Vientiane Caf� 4728 Baltimore Ave., 215-726-1095 A pan-South Asian comfort food, chaat can describe an array of savory snackies and condiments sold from street carts across the subcontinent. Distrito 3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-1657, distritorestaurant.com This gourmet market sells local products from artisanal cheeses to -- yes -- honey, plus goodies like croissants and sandwiches. Mizu 111 South 40th St., 215-382-1745, mizusushibar.com West Philadelphians flock to this compact BYOB for Laotian/Vietnamese fresh spring rolls with a hint of mint and for Vientiane's signature dessert: four tiny blue-edged dishes of coconut pudding. White Dog Caf� 3420 Sansom St., 215-386-9224, whitedog.com The hot-pink interior, VW Beetle booth and wall of luchador wrestling masks should tip you off to the fun, frenetic vibe at Jose Garces' West Philly small-plater. Fu-Wah Mini Market 810 S. 47th St., 215-729-2993 A favorite of college students for its BYO policy and cheap takeout, Mizu has all the classics and its own unique rolls to satisfy all sushi lovers without breaking the bank. Pod 3636 Sansom St., 215-387-1803, podrestaurant.com This long-running West Philly restaurant is a figurehead in the fair-trade, organic and sustainable business communities in Philadelphia. MUSIC Danger! Danger! Gallery West Philadelphians are positively evangelical about Fu-Wah's fried tofu hoagie (banh mi), and for good reason: It's divine. Kaffa Crossing 4423 Chestnut St., 215-386-0504, kaffacrossing.com There's cheaper sushi and Thai just around the corner in University City, but where else would you get the outrageous d�cor and the sense of fun that Stephen Starr so vigilantly dispenses? Rx 4443 Spruce St., 215-222-9590, caferx.com 5013 Baltimore Ave., 903-345-5790, dangerdangergallery.com Asking only for $5-$10 donations at the door, this all-ages West Philly spot brings in obscure acts from across the country. Gojjo 4540 Baltimore Ave., 215-386-1444, gojjos.com A family-run business, the caf� offers free WiFi access to breakfast and lunch patrons, plus an array of fair-trade crafts and fair-trade coffee. This unsuspecting Ethiopian bar hosts weekly installments of avant-garde jazz. a good feeling of discovery, of experimentation, of wishes fulfilled, that you can't help but join in. AFTER 100 YEARS, STILL CONVENIENTLY LOCATED AT THE INTERSECTION OF PHILADELPHIA AND THE WORLD. DISCOVER WHY INTERNATIONAL HOUSE PHILADELPHIA IS THE LEADING VENUE IN THE CITY FOR ADVENTUROUS ARTS AND CULTURAL PROGRAMMING. Films Cultural Dining Art Exhibits Excursions Language Classes Speaker Series Concerts And other Unique Cultural Events! Visit ihousephilly.org for memberships, tickets, program schedules, housing rates and more. www.ihousephilly.org THE HOODS: WEST PHILADELPHIA/UNIVERSITY CITY/SOUTHWEST PHILLY Green Line Caf� 4239 Baltimore Ave., 215-222-3431, greenlinecafe.com World Caf� Live 3025 Walnut St., 215-222-1400, worldcafelive.com International House 3701 Chestnut St., 215-387-5125, ihousephilly.org This is the original in a line of three West Philly hangouts good for enjoying local performers, open mic nights, poetry readings and art shows. Oh yeah, and coffee. Mann Center for the Performing Arts 5201 Parkside Ave., 215-893-1999, manncenter.org Enjoy local and big-name artists from all genres as well as open mic nights and concerts for kids at this two-floor venue. Be on the lookout for free events. ARTS + CULTURE The A-Space Institute of Contemporary Art Kelly Writers House 118 S. 36th St., 215-898-7108, icaphila.org 3805 Locust Walk, 215-746-7636, writing.upenn.edu/wh The Philly Pops, the Philadelphia Orchestra and the Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia are all regulars at this large open-air theater. Catch bigname rock and jazz acts, too. Millcreek Tavern 4200 Chester Ave., 215-222-9194, millcreektavernphilly.com 4722 Baltimore Ave., 215-727-0882, the-aspace.org An anarchist community space that hosts NORML meetings, lectures and First Friday events. AIRSPACE 4013 Chestnut St., 215-694-9719, inliquid.com/features/40street The University of Pennsylvania's self-run center for writing hosts music performances, seminars and book readings. Leonard Pearlstein Gallery 3215 Market St., 215-895-2548, drexel.edu/westphal/gallery NextFab Studio 3711 Market St., 215-921-3649, nextfabstudio.com Emerging local groups perform regularly at this West Philly bar, home to 20-plus draft selections. Pilam 3914 Spruce St., 201-452-0330, yarga.net Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts 3680 Walnut St., 215-898-3900, pennpresents.org Philadelphia Zoo 3400 Girard Ave., 215-243-1100, philadelphiazoo.org The hippest Penn fraternity house of them all doubles as an occasional venue, hosting acts as Barbecue each summer. The Rotunda 4014 Walnut St., 215-573-3234, therotunda.org This 1971 venue is a one-stop shop for theater, dance, African music, Irish performance art and more. Community Education Center 3500 Lancaster Ave., 215-387-1911, cecarts.org Add it to the list of firsts: The Philadelphia Zoo was the very first of its kind in America, and today hosts more than 1,300 animals. Please Touch Museum 4231 Avenue of the Republic, 215-581-3181, pleasetouchmuseum.org A meetingplace that hosts performances, seminars and workshops. Curio Theatre Co. 815 S. 48th St., 215-525-1350, curiotheatre.org Perfect for the kiddos, Please Touch is a fully hands-on museum experience. Sam Quinn Gallery Shofuso 4501 Spruce St., 267-408-5769, samquinn.com 4700 States Drive, 215-878-5097, shofuso.com This transformed West Philly church hosts a steady diet of community events along with films, plays, dance performances and live music. Tower Theater 19 S. 69th St., 610-352-2887, tower-theatre.com In its sixth season, Curio strives for imaginative theater performed by up-and-coming actors. Dhyana Yoga 3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-9642, dhyana-yoga.com Technically in Upper Darby, the Tower's accessible via subway and hosts big-name acts in all sorts of genres -- think the Pixies, Primus and Interpol. 68 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 Esther M. Klein Art Gallery 3600 Market St., 215-966-6188, kleinartgallery.org Located in the west side of Fairmount Park, Shofuso is a traditional 17th-century Japanese tea house that doubles as a performing arts venue. Slought Foundation 4017 Walnut St., 215-701-4627, slought.org VIX Emporium A self-proclaimed "experimental" institution, the Slought Foundation holds exhibitions and events focused on contemporary art, architecture that explore cultural conflicts and social activism. Studio 34 4522 Baltimore Ave., 215-387-3434, studio34yoga.com 5009 Baltimore Ave., 215-471-7700, vixemporium.wordpress.com Neighborhood Bike Works/Bike Church 3916 Locust Walk, 215-386-0316, neighborhoodbikeworks.org Jump on the Green Line for a much-needed visit to this handmade-goods boutique that stocks work by local artists and crafters, including plenty by West Philly neighbors. PARKS + REC Bartram's Garden Simeone Foundation Museum 6825 Norwitch Drive, 215-365-7233, simeonefoundation.org Trophy Bikes 3131 Walnut St., 215-222-2020, trophybikes.com Not just yoga by any means: Studio 34 hosts dance parties, art exhibits and workshops, too. University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology 3260 South St., 215-898-4000, penn.museum 54th Street and Lindbergh Boulevard, 215-222-6030, bartramsgarden.org University City District 215-243-0555, univeristycity.org America's oldest botanical garden surrounds 18th-century naturalist/explorer John Bartram's estate. Clark Park 4300 Chester Ave., 215-552-8186, clarkpark.info heritage artifacts. SHOPPING The Marvelous! Doctor Cycles 208 S. 40th St., 215-386-6110 3608 Lancaster Ave., 215-823-6780, doctorcycles.com A purveyor of records that's perfect for the jazz junkie. The Second Mile 214 S. 45th St., 215-662-1663, secondmilecenter.com Fencing Academy of Philadelphia 3519 Lancaster Ave., 215-382-0293, fap-fencing.com Firehouse Bicycles There's no better place to thrift than West Philly, where second-hand is just part of the culture. Urban Outfitters 110 S. 36th St., 215-387-6990, urbanoutfitters.com 50th Street and Baltimore Avenue, 215-727-9692, firehousebicycles.com 1 Fort Mifflin Road, 215-685-4167, fortmifflin.us 8601 Lindbergh Blvd., 215-365-3118, fws.gov Fort Mifflin On the other side of the spectrum, the campus Urban location services those who prefer their second-hand looks unscathed by previous owners. Morris Arboretum 100 E. Northwestern Ave., 215-247-5777, upenn.edu/arboretum Ac Fencing ad em y o f Phi l ad elp Fencing hia, I nc. rt o Wo ld Ch r FENCING ACADEMY OF PHILADELPHIA, INC. LOCATIONS IN: New classes start in September, January, March and June. Fully air-conditioned m a pio B eg inn n e THE HOODS photo by Neal Santos FAIRMOUNT/ART MUSEUM WHERE EVEN THE PRISON IS A MUSEUM. The streets north of western Center City, bound by Spring Garden to the south, Girard to the north, 19th Street to the east and Fairmount Park to the west, are known to those who live here as Fairmount -- it's only the real estate agents who call it the Art Museum. Showy landmarks like the Philadelphia Museum of Art and Eastern State Penitentiary draw tourists to the mostly residential 'hood; make like the locals and hang out at an outdoor table at one of the many casual pubs emphasizing world-class beer. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... The Belgian Caf�'s outdoor tables are the place for Euro brews and moules frites Eastern State Penitentiary, a crumbling castle looming over Fairmount Avenue London Grill; ask about the resident ghost Kelly Drive and practice shouting "on your left!" to slowpoke pedestrians Art Museum on pay-what-youwish day (the first Sunday of every month) YOU SHOULD KNOW ... Visit the Fairmount Community Development Corp.'s website (fairmountcdc.org) to get involved. The Fifth District City Councilman is Darrell Clarke (215-686-3442) through 2011. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS The Belgian Caf� go-to strip for reliably good eats -- now you can satisfy a parallel need for craft beer and local sports at the Kite & Key. St. Stephen's Green 1701 Green St., 215-769-5000, saintstephensgreen.com Philly's got plenty of great places to spend your boozin' dollars, but St. Stephen's Green should end up on your short list. Urban Saloon 2120 Fairmount Ave., 215-232-5359 This neighborhood watering hole has 12 taps behind the bar and an inventive pub grub menu to boot. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Fare 2047 Green St., 215-235-3500, thebelgiancafe.com 2028 Fairmount Ave., 267-639-3063, farerestaurant.com There are more than 200 beers by the bottle, and draft choices are available in smaller glasses as well as pints, so you can actually drink a top-notch brew for $3. Bishop's Collar 2349 Fairmount Ave., 215-765-1616, thecollar.us An ergonomic and eco-friendly dining experience with a menu focusing on organic, local food. Figs 2501 Meredith St., 215-978-8440, figsrestaurant.com A lively Fairmount bar named after the expression for a poorly poured pint of Guinness (they pull a mean one here). Bridgid's 726 N. 24th St., 215-232-3232, bridgids.com The smells that radiate from the kitchen of this Moroccan mainstay are those of the medina -- cinnamon, cumin and some unnameable essences that lend mystery to the food at hand. Jack's Firehouse 2130 Fairmount Ave., 215-232-9000, jacksfirehouse.com Sidle up to the bar at the city's most idiosyncratic neighborhood tappy for their all-day chili special, paired best with one of Brigid's numerous Belgians. Kite and Key 1836 Callowhill St., 215-568-1818, thekiteandkey.com If you're wrestling hunger pangs, sidle up for Jack's lip-smackin' ribs with firehouse fries or North Carolina-style crab cakes. London Grill 2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545, londongrill.com The 1800 block of Callowhill is fast becoming a 70 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 A friendly neighborhood institution and gathering place with a splendid bar (not to mention an inventive menu). Mugshots 2100 Fairmount Ave., 267-514-7145, mugshotscoffeehouse.com and-aah-worthy features of science class in colorful exhibits. Eastern State Penitentiary 2124 Fairmount Ave., 215-236-5111, easternstate.org the prolific French artist in a garden setting. Wine School of Philadelphia 127 S. 22nd St., 800-817-7351, ext. 2, vinology.com Mugshots faithful come for the vegan food options, socially conscious coffee and cozy atmosphere. Rybread 2319 Fairmount Ave., 215-769-0603, rybreadcafe.com A cozy little caf� specializing in gourmet sandwiches, wraps and hoagies. Trio 2624 Brown St., 215-232-8746, triobyob.com The Quaker-style prison that once housed Al Capone now opens its doors to thrill-seeking tourists. Franklin Institute 222 N. 20th St., 215-448-1200, fi.edu The offered courses and certificate programs are not for the curious dabbler -- they're aimed at serious connoisseurs and professionals. SHOPPING Ali's Wagon 2017 Fairmount Ave., 215-787-0611, aliswagon.com This cozy, comfy BYOB has an expansive PanAsian menu that reflects Eastern traditions. Zorba's Tavern 2230 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-5990, zorbastavern.com Named after our favorite inventor, this interactive museum includes an IMAX theater, which hosts a slew of high-flying, big-screen ordeals alongside the latest blockbusters. Free Library, Central Branch 1901 Vine St., 215-686-5322, freelibrary.org In family-friendly Fairmount, Ali's Wagon offers shoppers quaint homewares, bath and body products, and toys for the tots. Bookhaven 2202 Fairmount Ave., 215-235-3226 Delicious dolmades, saganaki, soutzoukakia and all manner of gyro, a half-block from Eastern State Penitentiary. MUSIC North Star Bar The Free Library's main branch is the largest in its 54-library system. Along with an impressive selection of books, classes and events, the library hosts world-renowned authors. Philadelphia Museum of Art 2600 Ben Franklin Pkwy.,215-763-8100, philamuseum.org Bookhaven sidles up under the shadow of the Free Library's Central Branch, snatching up used books and providing a cozier environment for lazy Sunday reading. Made You Look! 2601 Pennsylvania Ave., CU 3, 215-235-2386, fairmountupscaleconsignment.com 2639 Poplar St., 215-787-0488, northstarbar.com This Fairmount bar features everything from jazz to punk to 25-cent wings during happy hour in an intimate space. ARTS + CULTURE Academy of Natural Sciences The first art museum in the country, our local treasure contains enough Renaissance, contemporary and international art to keep locals coming back for more. Rodin Museum 22nd Street and Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-568-6026, rodinmuseum.org This casual little consignment shop is always stuffed and re-stuffed with jewelry, clothes and home furnishings. PARKS + REC Fairmount Park 1900 Ben Franklin Parkway, 215-299-1000, ansp.org For your inner child (or actual offspring), the Academy of Natural Sciences serves up the ooh- 215-988-9334, fairmountpark.org This open-air gem features tons of sculptures by American Art &Print V I N TA G E A N D C O N T E M P O R A RY F I N E A R T Original Oils Prints Commissions Located By The Philadelphia Museum Of Art PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE WWW.FAIRMOUNTUPSCALECONSIGNMENT.COM FACEBOOK.COM www.american-art-n-print.com | 267-226-5592 215-235-2386 Wed-Sun 12 to 5 THE HOODS photo by Neal Santos MANAYUNK/ROXBOROUGH/EAST FALLS TECHNICALLY STILL IN THE CITY. Set along Philly's Schuylkill-bordering northwest quadrant -- less than 15 minutes from Center City -- Manayunk, Roxborough and East Falls form a hilly triumvirate of traditionally bluecollar neighborhoods touched by two decades of gentrification. Parking is tight and roads are steep -- not a place to venture unnecessarily in a snowstorm -- but a casual vibe and proximity to several local colleges make this a haven for students and the recently-graduated. The annual Philadelphia International Cycling Championship serves as the official holiday and public party -- grab your cowbell and ring that thing to death. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... Manayunk Brewery's expansive, canal-side decks Manayunk Wall and be grateful you're not doing it on your bike Three Potato Four's funky finds from their Saturday barn sales at Bourbon Blue boasting scenic cemetery views 72 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 Mad River Bar & Grille 4100 Main St., 215-482-2666, madrivermanayunk.com YOU SHOULD KNOW ... Visit manayunk.com, roxborough.us or eastfallsdevelopment.org for specifics on each of these 'hoods. Fourth District City Council is represented by Curtis Jones Jr. (215-686-3416) through 2011. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Bourbon Blue Unlike its Old City counterpart, this location features a great heated outdoor deck overlooking the Schuylkill River for fun all year around. Manayunk Brewery and Restaurant 4120 Main St., 215-482-8220, manayunkbrewery.com In addition to a full food menu, Manayunk Brewery features house brews like the Bohemian Blonde and Schuylkill Punch year-round, plus seasonals like Yunkers' Gold and California Dreamin'. Yunkers Pub & Lounge 4421 Main St., 215-509-6005, toniconmain.com 2 Rector St., 215-508-3360, bourbonblue.com A little bit French Quarter, a dash of city sophistication and a heavy hand with the Hurricane pours characterize Sean Coyle's Manayunk hangout. JD McGillicuddy's 111 Cotton St., 215-930-0209, jdmcgillicuddys.com The old Tonic is now the place to go where nobody knows your name. With the perfect pub downstairs and rockin' dance club upstairs, it's the best of both worlds. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Adobe Caf� 4550 Mitchell St., 215-483-3947, adobecafephilly.com McGillicuddy's size and ambience offer something to make everyone in your party happy. Live music, happy hours, dancing, karaoke and TVs to catch the games make it a great getaway. Kildare's Irish Pub 4417 Main St., 215-482-7242, kildarespub.com With a second location on East Passyunk, Adobe's got a good thing going -- think inventive d�cor (holler @ the cow skull) and menu items like steak tips with smoked jalapeno mayo. Chabaa Thai Bistro 4371 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-1979, chabaathai.com Bob's Diner, What's the craic? This Kildare's location serves typical pub food plus various renditions of the Boxty, a stuffed Irish potato pancake. Manayunk's Chabaa is neatly decorated with photos from Thailand, but we go for one reason: The hottest Thai dishes in the state. Dairyland Ice Cream and Chocolates 4409 Main St., 215-482-6806, phillyicecream.com Pierogie Kitchen 648 Roxborough Ave., 215-483-5301, pierogiekitchen.com Ugly Moose 443 Shurs Lane, 215-482-2739, theuglymoose.com Sells cakes and chocolate-covered strawberries in addition to affordable scoops of flavors like Cookies 'n' Cream, Peanut Butter Cup Fudge and Birthday Cake. Derek's Restaurant 4411 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-9400, dereksrestaurant.com Comfort foodies take note: Owner Marie Thorpe utilizes her grandma's recipes to whip up over 35 varieties of these delicious Eastern European potato pockets. Shan Chuan 4211 Ridge Ave., 215-844-7889 Order Fried Mooserella, Duck Stickers or the Salmon North by Northwest at this kid-friendly Manayunk eatery. Whirled Peace 4321 Main St., 215-487-0489, whirledpeacefroyo.com After years serving Californified Italian food at Sonoma, Derek Davis closed and reopened this now-eponymous hot spot with a revamped menu and outdoor cafe seating. Jake's and Cooper's Wine Bar 4365-67 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-0444, jakesrestaurant.com In a sea of American pub grub, Shan Chuan's Chinese menu stands out. Sweet Elizabeth's Cakes 4409 Main St., 267-331-8949, sweetelizabethscakes.com A make-your-own frozen yogurt spot with other sweet desserts that's open until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights to satisfy the drunken munchies. Winnie's LeBus 4266 Main St., 215-487-2663, lebusmanayunk.com Liz and Owen Paradiso bake intricately designed, made-to-order cakes using fresh ingredients from area farms. Thomas' Restaurant and Bar 4201 Main St., 215-483-9075, thomasrestaurant.com Bruce Cooper's duo restaurant has an extensive menu of traditional Jake's favorites and contemporary Cooper's dishes, all committed to local farmers & sustainable practices. Johnny Ma�ana's 4201 Ridge Ave., 215-843-0499, johnnymananas.net Winnie's serves LeBus artisan breads in the morning, house specialties like "Mom's Meatloaf" in the afternoon and dinner entrees paired with local brews in the evening. MUSIC Dawson Street Pub With a specialty drinks list as long as its food menu, the South of the Border-reminiscent foodery thrives on buzzy kitsch. Machismo Burrito Bar 4330 Main St., Manayunk, 215-508-3333, machismoburritobar.com In 1982, Thomas' opened on a restaurant- and bar-free Main Street; it's now surrounded by other options, but Thomas' boasts nice details like a handmade mahogany bar, and savory treats like pistachio-crusted veal meatballs. Trolley Car Caf� 3269 S. Ferry Rd., 267-385-6703, trolleycardiner.com/caf� 100 Dawson St., 215-482-5677, dawsonstreetpub.com With over 20 years in the business, this Manayunk bar boasts an impressive beer list to complement the live music offered every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. ARTS + CULTURE Laurel Hill Cemetery The concept is simple at Manayunk's Machismo: It's a "build your own" burrito bar that's both sit-down and takeout-friendly. Just a short walk away from Kelly Drive, this modern '50s themed, BYOB caf� prides itself on being eco-friendly from the d�cor down to the menu. 3822 Ridge Ave., 215-228-8200, thelaurelhillcemetery.org Laurel Hill bills itself not as a mere cemetery but an "underground museum," a "horticultural gem," an "outdoor sculptural garden." And it's all true. The Best Of Both Worlds! CENTER CITY LIVING... SCENIC, NATURAL SURROUNDINGS ALDEN PARK Luxury Apartments gourmet kitchens * fireplaces * bay windows * sundeck heated indoor pool & sauna * free parking * free wifi fitness center * footsteps from bus & R8 * fairmount park spacious floorplans * formal dining room The Excitement Of Center City Within The Scenic Beauty Of Fairmount Park's Trails, Paths and Waterfront Ask About Our Great Lease Specials ! www.AldenParkApts.com 5500 Wissahicken Avenue * Philadelphia, Pa. 19144 215-844-7900 THE HOODS: MANAYUNK/ROXBOROUGH/EAST FALLS Main Street Music 4444 Main St., 215-487-7732, myspace.com/mainstmusic Stagecrafters Theatre 8130 Germantown Ave., 215-247-8881, thestagecrafters.org Mee-yow: Vamp features unique women's clothing and accessories that won't break the bank. Wag N Style 3734 Midvale Ave., 215-844-7100, wagnstyle.com Friendly independent music store selling new and used vinyl, CDs and DVDs. Manayunk Art Center 419 Green Lane, 215-482-3363, manayunkartcenter.org Running productions for over 80 seasons, Stagecrafters offers a variety of plays and script reading workshops. SHOPPING Beans Beauty Supply A "natural, eco-friendly, high-fashion" pet boutique for your favorite four-legged friends. Worn Yesterday 4228 Main St., 215-482-3316, wornyesterday.com Nonprofit center featuring exhibits, classes, workshops and other programs. Old Academy Players 3544 Indian Queen Lane, 215-843-1109, oldacademyplayers.org 4405 Main St., 215-487-3333, beansbeauty.com Offers makeup, skin and hair care, plus a fragrance selection and men's section. Benjamin Lovell 4305 Main St., 215-487-3747, benjaminlovell.com Gently worn clothing for infants through preteens, plus a maternity section featuring highend brands at not-so-high-end prices. PARKS + REC Gorgas Park Human Zoom In continuous performance since 1923, the quaint theater produces classics as well as new work. Schuylkill Center for Environmental Education Super-stylish shoes for men and women. Bryn Mawr Running Co. 4320 Main St., 215-487-0220, brynmawrrunningco.com Ridge and Hermitage streets 4159 Main St., 215-487-7433, humanzoom.com 8200 Hagys Mill Road, 215-482-7300, schuylkillcenter.org One of the country's first urban environmentaleducation centers, the Schuylkill Center hosts outdoor sculpture exhibits, trail hikes and other programs, plus a pavilion and amphitheater open to the public year-round. Sherman Mills 3502 Scotts Lane, 215-991-7601, shermanmills.com Everything you'll need to go as fast as your two feet will take you. Nicole Miller 4249 Main St., 215-930-0307, wix.com/nmphilly/nicole-miller-philadelphia Intoxx Fitness 123 Leverington Ave., 215-483-4030, intoxxfitness.com Kendrick Recreation Center 5822 Ridge Ave. Mary K. Dougherty's flagship boutique that features the work of her fashion designer friend, Nicole Miller. Three Potato Four 376 Shurs Lane, Building A, 267-335-3633, threepotatofourshop.com Pretzel Park Silverwood Street and Cotton Street, manayunkcouncil.org/Pretzel/ Residential, commercial and artist studios located in East Falls, which also host exhibits and other programs. Soft Illusions Fine Arts Gallery 4203 Main St., 215-840-0832, softillusions.net RowZone 4401 Main St., 215-482-0321, rowzone.com A carefully curated selection of home goods, gifts and trinkets, with a keen eye for graphic design. Vamp Boutique 4231 Main St., 215-487-2340, vampboutique.net Sweat Fitness 4151 Main St., 215-487-7100, sweatfitness.com Wissahickon Valley Henry Avenue and Lincoln Drive, fow.org The best gift you'll ever give will go to someone you don't even know! Make someone's dream come true. Become an egg donor. Main Line Fertility & Reproductive Medicine, Ltd. Donate your eggs Center City and easily accessible via SEPTA. $7,000 For more information, please contact the egg donor coordinator, Amy Fisher, RN, MSN, CRNP at 484-337-8958. THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos Delilah's NORTHERN LIBERTIES WELCOME TO THE NOUVEAU NICHE. First pioneered in the '80s by artists in search of inexpensive studio space, Northern Liberties may have the most diverse housing stock in Philadelphia. Situated north of Old City, NoLibs extends roughly to Girard Avenue to the north, Spring Garden to the south, Sixth Street to the west and the Delaware River completes the perimeter. Warehouses and disused factories are now loft buildings, and new construction ranges from green condos to rowhouses converted into bars and restaurants. Bike around this tightly packed 'hood to avoid Second Street traffic jams and parking vultures. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... dance party upstairs at 700 Club Copine Brunch Cart every weekend Lands Park screen at the Piazza at Schmidts Caf� Estelle (hint: magic unicorns) YOU SHOULD KNOW ... Check out neighborhood message board northernliberties.org for FAQs, local gossip and links to your First District City Councilman, Frank DiCicco (215-686-3458) through 2011. EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS 700 Club 100 Spring Garden St., 215-625-2800, delilahs.com A gentlemen's club and steakhouse that hosts bachelor parties aplenty. R.U.B.A. Hall 414 Green St., 215-627-9831 Join the Russian Ukrainian Boating Association (aka R.U.B.A.) for access to cheap beer, free pool and the privilege to stay out until 3 a.m. on a Sunday. Membership is five bucks. Gunners Run Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-923-4600, gunnersrun.com. 700 N. Second St., 215-413-3181 With 10 beers on tap and vegetarian, gluten-free and vegan menu options, Gunners Run makes for a good place for a drink with friends or a bite to eat. N. 3rd 801 N. Third St., 215-413-3666, norththird.com Stay downstairs for the bar, or climb the steps to soak in an unusual dancefloor atmosphere complete with DJ booth/bathtub. Abbaye 637 N. Third St., 215-627-6711 Serving up local brews and a killer brunch that's worth the wait. The Roxxy 927- 939 N. Delaware Ave., 215-768-1662, theroxxyphilly.com The vibe here is homey and welcoming; so, too, are its kindly bartenders. La Liberty Blind Pig 702 N. Second St., 267-639-4565, blindpigphilly.com Get down to top-40 hits and hip-hop beats at this NoLibs dance club. Silk City 435 Spring Garden St., 215-592-8838, silkcityphilly.com This casual, neighborhoody spot is pouring eight beers on tap and cracking upward of 20 brews in cans behind the bar to go along with its pubby menu. Serving updated diner food with a slew of local DJ talent and live hip-hop acts. CITYPAPER.NET 75 THE HOODS: NORTHERN LIBERTIES Standard Tap 901 N. Second St., 215-238-0630, standardtap.com Brown Betty Dessert Boutique Dmitri's 722 N. Second St., 215-629-0999, brownbettydesserts.com 944 N. Second St., 215-592-4550 The gold standard of the gastropub, Standard Tap's constantly changing chalkboard menus and all-local, all-draft beer selection pack in the local NoLibertines. Wine O 447 Poplar St., 215-925-0999, wineophilly.com This mother-daughter operation churns out killer cupcakes, dreamy pies and a host of other thighthickening treats. Caf� Estelle 444 N. Fourth St., 215-925-5080, cafeestelle.com Dmitri Chimes, who owns long-successful restaurants in Queen Village and Fitler Square, is now in NoLibs with Dmitri's No. 3. El Camino Real 1040 N. Second St., 215-925-1110, bbqburritobar.com More than just a quiet wine bar, Wine O boasts an extensive beer selection and a menu featuring Mediterranean-inspired cooking. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS 1 Shot Coffee Cafe Estelle is aww-inspiring: Marshall Green has cute on lock, from the vintage cookbook pages under the table glass to the harvest pie on the dessert menu. Cantina Dos Segundos 931 N. Second St., 215-629-0500, www.cantinadossegundos.com The restaurant celebrates food from both sides of the Tex-Mex border with two separate but equally hunger-inducing menus on offer. Garden Variety 209 Poplar St., gardenvarietyphiladelphia.com Liberties Walk, 1040 N. Second St., 215-627-1620, myspace.com/1shotcoffee This outdoor event space hosts Philly's La Copine brunch cart, the Dapper Dog and more. Honey's Sit `n Eat 800 N. Fourth St., 215-925-1150 The cozy 25-seat 1 Shot appeals to both artsy types and antsy work-from-homers. A Full Plate Cafe 1090 N. Bodine St., 215-627-4068, afullplate.com rocks and ease the grumbling of your stomach with an order of chimichangas. The Foodery 837 N. Second St. 215-238-6077, fooderybeer.com With a menu as eclectic as the restaurant's decor, A Full Plate serves up everything from vegetarian fare to health-conscious Southern cooking. Be sure to try the fried chicken drizzled in BBQ sauce served up on Belgian waffles. Bar Ferdinand 1030 N. Second St., 215-923-1313, barferdinand.com This quintessential, always-packed NoLibs brunch spot serves Jewish home cooking with a sweet Southern drawl. Koo Zee Doo Traditional P.Y.T. 614 N. Second St., 215-923-8080, koozeedoo.com The roomier northern outpost of Pine Street's iconic beer bottle shop; choose from a jawdropping array of domestic and imported beer, available by the bottle, six pack or mixed six. Darling's Diner Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 267-239-5775, darlingsdiner.com Portuguese recipes/ingredients The food here is straight, beautifully crafted tapas -- hot and cold salads, bocadillos and pinchos. Order breakfast anytime at this old school, 24hour diner. Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-964-9009, pytphilly.com burger and shake lounge, complete with $10 "adultshakes" (milkshakes doused with booze). 76 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 Being the best is all we know. The Gentlemen's Club & Steakhouse ROCK ATTITUDE. LOUNGE ATMOSPHERE. THE PARTY STARTS THIS FALL 100 Spring Garden Street www.rebelphiladelphia.com THE HOODS: NORTHERN LIBERTIES The Random Tea Room 713 N. Fourth St., 267-639-2442, therandomtearoom.com Tea aficionados and casual consumers of hot drinks alike will delight in Random Tea Room's selection of artisanal teas and house-made herbal infusions. Rustica Pizza 903 N. Second St., 215-627-1393 SHOPPING Arcadia Boutique 819 N. Second St., 215-667-8099, arcadiaboutique.com While you end up paying more than you would at other shops, Rustica's superior ingredients form one magnificent chicken cheesesteak. Spring Garden Market 400 Spring Garden St., 215-928-1288 Organic cotton tees, carefully selected vintage pieces and plenty of socially conscious housewares and accessories mingle among pieces by designers such as Mel en Stel, Rich & Skinny and Ben Sherman at this eco-friendly boutique for guys and dolls. Architectural Antiques Exchange 715 N. Second St., 215-922-3669, architecturalantiques.com and abalone, insta noodle bowls, pre-packed dumplings, Mikawaya ice cream, bizarro-world Lotte candies ... we could go on. Tiffin 710 W. Girard Ave., 215-922-1297, tiffinstore.com A three-floor wonderland of extremely old-school furniture, iron work, stained glass, doors, full wooden pub bars and more. Art Star 623 N. Second St., 215-238-1557, artstarphilly.com If you can't get enough of their jewelry, dresses, ceramics, playthings, menswear, art tees and wicked annual craft bazaar. Chez Bow Wow 1040 N. Second St., 215-923-2992, chezbowwow.com This Northern Liberties-based service makes fast, inexpensive and light Indian food. Online or by phone, customers can order box meals of two entr�es, dal, raita and pickles. Trios Pizzeria & Trattoria 342 W. Girard Ave., 215-627-1000 637 N. 3rd Street . PHILADELPHIA Entering this shop fills you with the smells of a freshly baked Margherita pizza, and that's only the beginning. MUSIC Electric Factory The only one who deserves to be pampered more than you ... is your dog. Chez Bow Wow specializes in hair cutting, teeth cleaning, nail clipping, gland expression and more. City Planter 814 N. Fourth St., 215-627-6169, cityplanter.com 215-627-6711 421 N. Seventh St., 215-627-1332, livenation.com Heaven for urban gardeners who're dreaming up big ideas in small spaces. Colors by Padmini 906 N. Second St., 215-733-0330, padminidesign.com Fans don't seem to mind that the converted electric factory is sweaty and, save for a few seated sections, standing-room-only -- 'cause bigname acts sound just as good without a chair. The Fire 412 W. Girard Ave., 267-671-9298, iourecords.com/thefire Travel to the far East without ever leaving Northern Liberties. This boutique is stocked with linens, pillows, bedding and bags inspired by the owner's travels to India. Delicious Boutique and Corseterie 1040 N. American St., Suite No. 901, 215-413-0375; 1050 N. Hancock St., Suite 64, 267-318-7402; deliciousboutique.com Up-and-comers from all genres win over Philly fans at this NoLibs dive bar. ARTS + CULTURE Amble Gallery and Books Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-764-5402, amblegallery.com Piazza at Schmidts Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-467-4603, atthepiazza.com If you're not quite ready to lace it up, this circus-themed boutique (which now boasts two locations) also carries men's and women's clothing, jewelry and accessories with a vampy wink. Mill�sim� Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 267-455-0374, millesime.us Pure Gold Gallery Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, puregoldgallery.wordpress.com Projects Gallery 629 N. Second St., 267-303-9652, projectsgallery.com Featuring trendy furniture, home wares and clothing, Mill�sim� is your one-stop shop for all things chic and stylish. Mode Moderne 159 N. Third St., 215-627-0299, modemoderne.com Vincent Michael Gallery Piazza at Schmidts, Second Street and Germantown Avenue, 215-399-1580, vincentmichael.com This shop focuses on mid-century furniture, but also sells pottery and vintage items. R.E.Load Baggage 608 N. Second St., 215-625-2987, reloadbags.com On Facebook On Yelp On For 10 years now, R.E.Load has been equipping messengers (and those of us who just like their gear) with crazy durable, crazy stylish handmade bags. PARKS + REC Body Arts Gym 926 N. Second St., 267-773-7871, bodyartsgym.com Liberty Lands Park North Bowl N. Third and Wildey streets, 215-627-6562, nlna.org 909 N. Second St., 215-238-2695, northbowlphilly.com North Bowl's snacky take on the classic grilled cheese makes it the perfect finger food for a night at the lanes. Orianna Hill Dog Park SugarHouse Casino 9013 N. Orianna St., oriannahill.org 1080 N. Delaware Ave., 267-232-2103, sugarhousecasino.com Try your hand at slots, blackjack and more at NoLibs' own SugarHouse casino. THE HOODS photo by Neal Santos NORTH PHILLY/OLNEY/OAK LANE THE DIAMONDS AND THE ROUGH. The home of Temple University, a barrio full of Latin-Caribbean culture and kaleidoscopic murals, North Philly lies between Girard Avenue and Roosevelt Boulevard, Front Street and the Schuylkill. Olney and Oak Lane are bounded by Roosevelt Boulevard to the south, Cheltenham Avenue to the north, Tacony Creek to the east and Belfield Avenue to the west. It's also home to LaSalle University. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... Wagner Free Institute of Science Osteria Kim's for authentic Korean BBQ on at Tierra Colombiana EXPLORE ... RESTAURANTS + BARS Caf� Soho Under the Oak Caf� 804 Oak Lane, 215- 924-1410, undertheoakcafe.com 468 W. Cheltenham Ave., 215-224-6800 Offering cooking classes, chef's table dinners, wholesale foods and a caf� full of gourmet treats. ARTS + CULTURE Arts Garage There's a crack-like quality to the fried chicken at Caf� Soho, worth the hike to Olney. El Bohio 2746 N. Fifth St., 215-425-5991 1533 Ridge Ave., 215-765-2702, theartsgarage.com A family-owned eatery serving authentic Puerto Rican specialties. Isla Verde 2725 N. American St., 215-426-3600 Host a birthday party, attend a fish fry, watch a movie, listen to jazz or get your dance on at this venue that hosts nightly entertainment of all stripes. Cerulean Arts 1355 Ridge Ave., 267-514-8647, ceruleanarts.com At Isla Verde, tapas are available all day long. Expect modern pan-Latin cuisine with some Italian flourishes. Osteria 640 N. Broad St., 215-763-0920, osteriaphilly.com This Philly-based partnership promotes art within the community through a series of exhibitions and instructive courses to unlock your inner Matisse. New Freedom Theatre 1346 N. Broad St., 215-765-2793, freedomtheatre.org Arts Garage YOU SHOULD KNOW ... For political concerns in North Philly, give Fifth District Councilman Darrell Clarke a call (215686-3442). In Olney/Oak Lane, call Marian Tasco in the Ninth District (215-686-3454). They're in office through 2011. Italian food fans, check out Marc Vetri's second eatery, where wood-fired pizzas rule the day. Relish 7152 Ogontz Ave., 215-276-0170, relishphiladelphia.com Founded in 1966, Pennsylvania's oldest AfricanAmerican theater has a reputation for powerful productions. Wagner Free Institute of Science 1700 W. Montgomery Ave., 215-763-6529, wagnerfreeinstitute.org Celebrating the comforting cuisine of the South, way, way up North (in West Oak Lane, to be exact). Tierra Colombiana 4535 N. Fifth St., 215-324-6086, tierracolombianaonline.com This North Philly social and culinary nexus offers Cuban and Colombian cooking. The Wagner keeps things fresh with annual lectures on hot topics and Science on Tap learning/drinking nights. CITYPAPER.NET 81 THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos THE NORTHEAST LET THEM EAT BUTTERCAKE. This giant chunk of Philly bordered by the Delaware River, Adams Avenue, Bucks County and Montgomery County is great not only for its gooey buttercake, stellar diners and go-to hoagie joints, but the pockets of greenery scattered throughout. Deciphering the often-confounding, open-O'd accents of the natives starts at the Mayfair Diner -- use your server as a personal Rosetta Stone and go forth from there. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... Haegele's and ending at Mayfair Bakery, do a buttercake crawl Philadelphia Distilling Co. Pennypack Park Insectarium and learn a thing or two about our six-legged bug friends Firkinteenth at Grey Lodge Pub, held every Friday the 13th YOU SHOULD KNOW ... Stay up to date on your Northeast news at neastphilly.com. If you choose to be a Neastie, you'll be repped by current City Council members Joan Krajewski, Sixth District (215-686-3444); Maria Qui�ones-Sanchez, Seventh (215-6863448); and Brian O'Neill, 10th (215-686-3422). EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Grey Lodge Pub and otherwise Deutsch-inspired beers from local breweries on the 12-tap system. Three Monkeys Caf� 9645 James St., 215- 632-3334, 3monkeyscafe.com Sidle up to the 1890s hand-carved bar, an antique oasis in a Northeast sea of neon. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Albert's Caf� 3180 Grant Ave., 215-673-7200, albertscafe.com Sticking to traditional Italian and American fare, Albert's serves classics like chicken marsala and hot roast beef, plus standard pub grub like mozz sticks and buffalo wings. Bobo's 6424 Castor Ave., 215-743-9900 6235 Frankford Ave., 215-856-3591, greylodge.com If you go to the Grey Lodge on the third Friday of any month, you'll see a man hammering a tap into the bottom of a tiny, old-world keg. It's the lodgemaster, and he's not making a mistake -- he's busting open a firkin of cask-conditioned beer. Hop Angel Brauhaus 7980 Oxford Ave., 215-825-5357, hopangelbrauhaus.blogspot.com Women who refer to themselves as "Aunties" rule the grill at this authentic Korean barbecue joint, serving up a variety of stir-fries, hot pots and kimchi that'll have your tongue burning for days. Chickie's and Pete's 4010 Robbins Ave., 215-338-3060, chickiesandpetes.com This is a German drinkery, yes, but it's also a Philadelphia bar, so expect to see Oktoberfest The original location of Chickie's and Pete's opened in 1977 and features a bi-level space with three bars (ask for their Crabby Mary), plus a menu stuffed to the gills with gut-busters like Crab Fries, Chicken Cutlet Parm and Mussels Marinara. 82 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 Ryerss Museum and Library 7370 Central Ave., 215-685-0544, ryerssmuseum.org Open since 1910 and run by the Fairmount Park Commission, the Ryerss Museum is on the SHOPPING Roosevelt Mall 2329 Cottman Ave., 215-331-2000 Franklin Mills Mall 1455 Franklin Mills Circle, 215-632-1500, franklinmills.com Pat's Music Center 7302 Frankford Ave., 215-708-0444, patsmusiccenter.com Sells guitars drum kits, DJ equipment, amps, sheet music and more. PARKS + REC Fox Chase Farm 8500 Pine Road, 215-728-7900, foxchasefarm.org Pennypack Park 8015 Lawndale Ave., 215-574-2100, pennypackpark.com Wissinoming Park Cheltenham Road and Frankford Avenue, wissinomingpark.org Chink's Steaks 6030 Torresdale Ave., 215-535-9405, chinksteaks.com Sweet Lucy's 7500 State Road, 215-331-3112, sweetlucys.com Open since 1949, Chink's serves up old-school cheesesteaks to locals and tourists willing to make the trek. Dattilo's Delicatessen 8000 Horrocks St., 215-725-2020, dattilosdeli.com At Northeast Philly's Sweet Lucy's Smokehouse, piggies are roasted in an on-site hickory wood smoker. White Elephant 759 Huntingdon Pike, 215-663-1495, whiteelephantrestaurant.com Dattilo's has long been the go-to hoagie joint for the Northeast lunch rush, but this Italian deli has even more if you've got the time. Haegele's Bakery 4164 Barnett St., 215-624-0117 White Elephant offers a three-course Thai lunch menu that beats the posh pants off your average money pit. Wit or Witout 9970 Roosevelt Blvd., 215-437-1681, witorwitout.com Despite the abundance of buttercaking joints in Mayfair, you should call ahead to guarantee a slice from this German bakery tucked into a strip of rowhouses. The crunchier crust makes for much cleaner fingers, and on Fridays and Saturdays, they make a special round variety topped with peaches, blueberries or strawberries. Makiman Sushi 7324 Oxford Ave., 215-722-8800 John Tumolo, whose clan founded Rita's Italian Ice, has entered the cheesesteak fray with this Wit or Witout location, the second in Northeast Philly. ARTS + CULTURE Grand Army of the Republic Museum 4278 Griscom St., 215-289-6484, garmuslib.org This unassuming building makes the bold claim: "Where the Civil War comes alive." Insectarium 8046 Frankford Ave., 215-335-9500, myinsectarium.com The elusive Makiman rocks wicked sushi rolls in the shadows of CVS and Dunkin' Donuts. Mayfair Bakery 6447 Frankford Ave., 215-624-8886, mayfairbakery.com Buttercake purists will approve of Mayfair Bakery's classic, no-frills version -- they've been putting junk in the Northeast's trunk since 1965. Mayfair Diner 7373 Frankford Ave., 215-624-4455, mayfairdiner.com Billed as Philadelphia's only "all-bug museum," the Insectarium hosts programs for kids and adults, all in the name of creepy-crawly education. Philadelphia Distilling 12285 McNulty Road, 215-671-0346, philadelphiadistilling.com Open every day of the year except Christmas, the Mayfair Diner is a mainstay for N'Easties -- maybe it has something to do with the fact that it's a BYOB. Up past the Northeast Airport near the edge of town is the home of Philly's burgeoning smallbatch spirits empire. Philadelphia School of Modern Kenjutsu 7010 Rising Sun Ave., 267-258-1962, modernkenjutsu.com THE HOODS photos by Neal Santos PORT FISHINGTON GROUP HUG IN THE GREAT PORTMANTEAU. The old 'hoods along the Delaware River (and roughly bordered by the Market-Frankford line to the northwest) are proud enough of their individual heritages to make the chimera beast Port Fishington a suspicious one. Nevertheless, the river wards of Port Richmond, Fishtown and Kensington do have much in common: familyfriendly, affordable housing, old-school butchers, bakers and sausage-makers and a working-class tradition of Eagles on Sunday. Arrivistes gather at community hub Johnny Brenda's for beers and comforting pub grub; old-heads might head off to Jovan's for a bowl of goulash adequate to feed a family of four. Choose your own adventure. WHILE YOU'RE HERE ... one yourself ) at the annual Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby Santucci's on O Street, just north of Kenzo in Juniata Byrne's Tavern is the city's wing king. The tingly flappers are even half-price on Mondays Greensgrow Farm's Saturday market Tour Philadelphia Brewing Co. and try to choose a favorite of their local lineup 84 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012 pretzels and spaetzle to an assortment of German sausages. Kraftwork 541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-1700, kraftworkbar.com YOU SHOULD KNOW ... TheNew Kensington Community Development Corp. (nkcdc.org) stays on top of zoning, housing and community arts. Current Councilpeople are Frank DiCicco, First District (215-686-3458); Joan Krajewsky, Sixth (215-686-3444); and Darrell Clarke, Fifth (215-686-3442). EXPLORE ... BARS + CLUBS Atlantis: The Lost Bar 2442 Frankford Ave. Fishtown's Kraftwork is a serious beer bar offering a lineup of 24 all-draft craft beers, plus a small wine list and a few cocktails. A taut accompanying menu is laid out like project blueprints, in keeping with the working-man theme. Memphis Taproom 2331 E. Cumberland St., 215-425-4460, memphistaproom.com The prices at Atlantis make the bar attractive to Fishtown's cash-poor but taste-rich artistic types. And, with deals like the $3 citywide special (a can of PBR and a shot of Jim Beam), the clientele is hella loyal. The El Bar 1356 N. Front St., 215-634-6430, facebook.com/theelbar The mood at this Fishtown gastropub is gleeful -- probably because everyone working here knows they have a winner. Expect plentiful craft brews and crazy-good bar food (read: fried pickles). Post Richmond Pour House 2253 East Clearfield St., portrichmondpourhouse.blogspot.com This longtime member of Fishtown's music scene is located directly below a section of the MarketFrankford line and hosts performances by local rock acts. Frankford Hall 1210 Frankford Ave., 215-634-3338, frankfordhall.com This casual, affordable neighborhood pub boasts an exclusively American selection of craft beers. RESTAURANTS + MARKETS Ekta Indian Cuisine 250 E. Girard Ave., 215-426-2277, ektaindianrestaurant.com This Stephen Starr newbie beer hall also provides great beer-drinker fare, from warm Bavarian The Indian fare turned out by Girard Avenue's Ekta is richer than Vince Fumo before federal indictment. And even if the storefront isn't much to look at, they deliver far and wide. Fathom Seafood House 200 E. Girard Ave., 267-761-9343, fathomphilly.com. Tacconelli's Pizzeria 2604 E. Somerset St., 215-425-4983 Another oceanic treasure from Mike Stollenwerk, chef/owner of beloved Philly seafood spots Fish and Little Fish. Greensgrow Farm 2501 E. Cumberland St., 215-427-2702, greensgrow.org Tacconelli's pizzas are in such high demand that they advise reserving dough at least a day in advance. Tiffin 712 W. Girard Ave., 215-925-0770, tiffin.com A locavore's dream come true, this Fishtown mainstay sells all sorts of plantables in the summer and Christmas trees in the winter; Greensgrow is also a one-stop farmers market shop in peak season, and offers CSA shares yearround. Ida Mae's Bruncherie 2302 E. Norris St., 215-426-4209, idamaesbruncherie.com Munish Narula's Indian/Pakistani BYO remains wildly popular. Stop by Tiffin Etc. next door for curry-licious takeout and street food. Whipped Bakeshop 636 Belgrade St., 215-598-5449, whippedbakeshop.com Master bakestress Zo� Lukas' storefront features a rotating selection of cupcakes and "cake cups," which are exactly what they sound like. MUSIC The Barbary Between the menu and the specials board, you can find your standard syrupy fare with an emphasis on fresh local produce. Jovan's Place 2327 E. York St., 215-634-3330, jovansplace.com 951 Frankford Ave., 215-643-7400, myspace.com/thenewbarbary Much like the hospitality, the food at this Kensington spot is honest and transparent -- generous, rustic plates you'll be reminiscing about long after you've enjoyed them. Lola Bean 1325 Frankford Ave., 215-634-LOLA, facebook.com/thelolabean At this Fishtown bar venue, R5 Productions hosts all-ages acts and DJs rock the crowd with a silver curtain behind and mirror ball above. The Fire 412 W. Girard Ave., 267-671-9298, iourecords.com/thefire This community-based coffee shop is everything you could want in caf�: great interior space, funky artwork and all your fave caf� concoctions. Marian's Bakery 2615 E. Allegheny Ave., 215-634-4579 This Firehouse neighbor has housed some of the hippest acts on its intimate stage, and I.O.U. Records continues to book some of Philly's hottest rock and indie talents. Johnny Brenda's 1201 N. Frankford Ave., 215-739-9684, johhnybrendas.com Since 1959, Port Richmond's Polish population has been lining up outside Marian's for a hit of the sweet stuff: cheese babka and makowiec, a poppyseed swirl cake rolled up with or without walnuts. Wit! Modo Mio 161 W. Girard Ave., 215-203-8707, modomiorestaurant.com Well-respected national and local acts play the Fishtown landmark that once was a 19th-century theater. Kung Fu Necktie 1250 N. Front St., 215-291-4919, kungfunecktie.com The relative newbie on the Fishtown music scene features rock and indie acts, and sets itself apart by squeezing a gallery upstairs. The Manhattan Room 15 W. Girard Ave., 215-739-5577, mroomphilly.com This 40-seater is more than just good eats -- it's also a good time. Diners are sure to take to the menu's true-to-it approach to Italian cuisine. Rocket Cat Caf� 2001 Frankford Ave., 215-739-4526, myspace.com/therocketcatcafe This cozy Fishtown space hosts shows by local booking company Village Green Productions. ARTS + CULTURE 2424 Studios Crane Arts 2424 E. York St., 215-423-1800, 2424studios.com 1400 N. American St., cranearts.com If you chugged too much Surge when you were 11 and are now immune to caffeine, Rocket Cat's Thai iced coffee is for you. Santucci's Original Square Pizza 4019 O St., 215-533-3256 Locals don't mind making the trek up to this iconic spot just north of Kensington for sauce-ontop, cheese-on-the-bottom pies. Sketch 413 E. Girard Ave., 215-634-3466 This huge historic building houses four floors of artist studios and is home to InLiquid, Nexus, Claymobile and Gallery 201. Its accompanying Ice Box project space is rented out annually for Fringe and Live Arts festival performances and craft shows like InLiquid's Art for the Cash Poor. Extra Extra 1524 Frankford Ave., 301-412-7547, eexxttrraa.com A one-stop shop for the quintessential American classic. Figure-watchers, grab a turkey or veggie burger. This Kensington arts space supports underrepresented artists in both visual and performing arts fields, focusing on "new interpretations of sculpture, installation and performance, in whatever forms they may take." THE HOODS: PORT FISHINGTON FLUXspace 3000 N. Hope St., thefluxspace.org Hosting exhibits, experimental performing art and multidisclipinary events, this North Kenzo collective pushes the envelope in terms of concept and execution. Highwire Gallery 2040 Frankford Ave., 215-426-2685, kenbmiller.com/highwire burlesque workshops, dance and yoga as well as private events. SHOPPING Beekman's C.O.P.A. Soaps Thrift Fair Stores Inc. 2403 Aramingo Ave., 215-426-5204 438 E. Girard Ave., 800-315-5690, These natural handmade soaps are loved by many and will blow your pants off (if they aren't off already). Circle Thrift 2233 Frankford Ave., 215-423-5060 This massive thrift store is a busy place, but the size speaks for itself. They have a little of everything here -- you just need to be the first person to find something great. PARKS + REC Bicycle Stable 1420 Frankford Ave., 215-634-0633, bicyclestable.com Little Berlin 2430 Coral St., littleberlin.org Mascher Space Co-op 155 Cecil B. Moore Ave., 530-906-5073, mascherdance.com The Fishtown outpost of this thrift-shop network is stocked with already-loved furniture, books, records and vintage clothing. DiPinto Guitars 407 E. Girard Ave., 215-427-7805, dipintoguitars.com Bilenky Cycle Works 5319 N. Second St., 215-329-4744, bilenky.com Fishtown Recreation Center Jay's Pedal Power Bikes Penn Treaty Park 1202 E. Montgomery Ave., 215-685-9885, fishtown.us 512 E. Girard Ave., 215-425-5111, jayspedalpower.com North Delaware Avenue and Marlborough Street, penntreatypark.org More than 40 artists-in-residence have set up shop in this Kensington dance co-op since it opened in 2006. Philadelphia Photo Arts Center Project Basho 1400 N. American St., 215-232-5678, philaphotoarts.org 1305 Germantown Ave., 215-238-0928, projectbasho.org These custom-made babies can be seen sported by the likes of Jack White and Conan O'Brien, just to name a few. Port Richmond Books 3037 Richmond St., 215-425-3385, portrichmondbooks.com Philadelphia Fight Factory Proximity Gallery Pterodactyl 2434 E. Dauphin St., 267-825-2949, proximityart.com 3237 Amber St., 215-501-7158, pterodactylphiladelphia.org Epic in scale and variety, Port Richmond Books is worth the trek. ReStore 3016 E. Thompson St., 215-634-3474, re-store-online.com 2220 E. Susquehanna Ave., 215-427-1144, philafightfactory.com Volpe Cycles 2559 E Dauphin St., 215-291-0363, thrillist.com In addition to hosting gallery events, Pterodactyl is Kensington's hot spot for community art classes -- from animal sculpture to food preservation. Walking Fish Theatre 2509 Frankford Ave., 215-427-WALK, bsomeday.com An architectural salvage retail shop that carries everything from doors and window frames to cast-iron floor vents and, yes, even kitchen sinks. Reverie 205 W. Girard Ave., reverievintage.com This Fishtown space created by B. Someday Productions hosts standup comedy, theater, This Girard vintage stop skips the novelty tees for a more sophisticated, great-aunt brand of oldschool, making for plenty of sweet pumps, dainty bags and mismatched china. 86 CITY GUIDE 2011 - 2012