CUISINE WITH CHARM, CONTINUED FROM PG. 20
onions and nutty Parmesan. A sweet-pea risotto was perfectly done, creamy with firm grains and bright green peas creating highlights. Sweet peas also made an appearance as filling, along with ricotta, in housemade ravioli. These were served in a simple brown-butter sauce with shaved Parmesan, sunflower seeds and balsamic-glazed carrots that stole the show with their almost citrusy astringency. A sea-salt-roasted beet and asparagus salad over peppery arugula, dressed with a white-truffle vinaigrette and scattered with earthy roasted pepitas and tangy gorgonzola cheese, tasted like a plate of pure spring.
Coconut-cream pie
We had quibbles with two basically successful dishes: fennel-crusted salmon, while crisp and flavorful without and beautifully translucent within, was unbalanced by too much salt, while a tender glazed pork chop was simply too rare. We were intrigued by the promise of a ginger-beer barbecue glaze on the chop, but sweet flavors dominated the rest. What rescued the dish were slivers of candied ginger, which offered ample zing to each bite. The bed of buttermilk mashed potatoes was superb, creamy and flavorful enough to hold up against the sauce. Unfortunately, roasted Brussels sprouts could have used a bit more time under the broiler; they were too lightly browned for really intense flavor. One of Hartwood’s rooms serves as Whispers Pub, an attractive tavern, and we tried a burger from its menu. Though served on a good Kaiser roll and made with beautiful Angus beef, it was seasoned too lightly; a sprinkle of salt helped a lot. Like the entrée list, the sandwich menu covered quite a bit of ground, from grilled salmon with pesto to a comforting classic tuna melt and that local institution, turkey Devonshire. At Hartwood Restaurant and Whispers Pub, both the food and the ambience are memorable. INF O @PGH C IT YPAPE R . C O M
22
PITTSBURGH CITY PAPER 05.07/05.14.2014
On the RoCKs
{BY HAL B. KLEIN}
TIME TRIALS At Cure, good things come to drinkers who wait Colin Anderson, the head bartender at Cure restaurant, is practicing patience. Here’s an example: The 27-year-old started experimenting with crafting his own amaro over a year ago, while he was still working at Bar Marco. I tried some a few weeks back, and it was magnificent. But Anderson isn’t ready to share it yet: “Give in another six months or a year,” he says, “and it’s going to blow your mind.” Indeed, much like his boss Justin Severino, Anderson’s alchemy hits the sweet spot at the crossroads of homespun techniques, contemporary vision and molecular gastronomy. “I’ve watched [Severino] so much, and I feel I’m at the point where I do what I’m doing and I’m confident that it fits with his vision,” Anderson says. Anderson says that a well-crafted drink should strike a balance between flavor, potency and visual appeal. “It’s best when you build with layers,” he says.
“I’VE BEEN LUCKY TO WORK AT PLACES THAT REALLY LET ME EXPLORE WHAT I WANT TO DO.” You can both taste and see that in his new spring cocktails. “Gin” is an artful blend of house-made vermouth that Anderson then infused with violets, roses and pansies, as well as fernet and an apricot liqueur made from last summer’s fruit. It’s garnished with a royal purple flower and caviar-like pearls of lime juice. In “Rum,” a dehydrated apple is “glued” to the side of the glass with a reduction of Negroni; a blood-orange foam adds a welcome jolt of acidity. Anderson credits his growth to Severino’s trust, and to the encouragement he found at his previous places of employment (Cross Keys Inn, Bar Marco). He also considers iconic Washington, D.C., barman Derek Brown a mentor. “Most bartenders never get the chance to fool around with this kind of stuff,” he says. “I’ve been lucky to work at places that really let me explore what I want to do.” And that’s why he can afford to be a little patient. “At this point I know what I want,” he says. “I’m really focused.” INFO@PGHCITYPAPER.COM
5336 Butler St., Lawrenceville. 412-2522595 or www.curepittsburgh.com