The First Eighteen

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

magazine: EDITOR – Shelley Fox Donna Karan Professor of Fashion Director, MFA Fashion Design and Society ART DIRECTOR – Jonathan KYLE Farmer Associate Professor of Fashion DESIGNER – Chris Ritchie, Coa Design TECHINICAL ADVISORS: Alvaro Larrain, Redcats USA Laura Sjoberg, Quad/Graphics Printed by Quad/Graphics MFA Fashion Design and Society Program Parsons The New School for Design The new MFA in Fashion Design and Society at Parsons The New School for Design is a highly selective program for talented, emerging designers that was initiated through the support of alumna Donna Karan. The program is studio based and fosters experimentation, providing students with the design and research skills they need to become successful in the field, including a critical awareness for selfdevelopment and growth. Since the program’s inception, students have showcased work internationally, receiving global recognition and awards through participation in select events and competitions. Parsons The New School for Design is a global leader in design education, with programs that span the disciplines of design and the fine arts. With the launch of the first fashion design program in America in 1906, Parsons is credited with the rise of Seventh Avenue, the epicenter of American fashion. Parsons has educated generations of leading American fashion designers, including Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Isaac Mizrahi, Tracy Reese, Narciso Rodriguez, Anna Sui, Prabal Gurung, Derek Lam, Ohne Titel, Thakoon Panichgul, Proenza Schouler, Vena Cava, Alexander Wang, and Jason Wu. For more information, visit www.newschool.edu/parsons. To learn more about the MFA Fashion Design and Society Program, visit www.newschool.edu/mfafds.

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Contact: Shelley Fox Donna Karan Professor of Fashion Director, MFA Fashion Design & Society Parsons The New School for Design foxs@newschool.edu 212 229 8966 For Program Information: www.newschool.edu/mfafds

All Press Inquiries: Deborah Kirschner Communications and External Affairs The New School kirschnd@newschool.edu 212 229 5667 x 4310

Alan Aimes Alastair McKimm Alexander Wang Alice Barlow Alison Maloney Alistair O’Neill Ambassador Sussman of the USA Embassy in London Andrea Mazandi-Iseke Andrew Bolton Anke Gruendel Anna Orsini Anne Smith Anne Lomax Anupma Malhotra Bailey Goldenbaum Ben Lee Beth Hofer Beth DeMoisy Bob Kerrey Brendan McCarthy Bruce Nussbaum Burak Cakmak Camilla Harrison Cara Campagnoli Carin Kuoni Carlos Teixeira Carol Edwards Caroline McKenty Caroline Walmsley Catherine Baba Cecilia Rubino Cher Potter Chiara Taddeucci Chris Ritchie Chris Constable Christine Biela Cindy Plotts Colin Stearns Courtney Malenius Daisy Wong Daniel Reynolds Danielle Claudio Danielle Parillo David van Zandt David Kaufman Deborah Kirschner Denise Wallner Diana Khoi Nguyen Diane von Furstenberg Donna Karan Eddie Mullon Edward Kim Ellie Laycock Elyse Heckman Emil Rivera Emilia Vincent Emilio Toro Eric Wilson Eugenia Paulicelli FEP EVENTS, INC Fiona Dieffenbacher Flint Beamon Floriana Betti Bindi Fran Miskin Frances Corner Frances.E Palma Francesca Granata Francesca Fattorini Francis Wong Franklin Bober Gabi AsFour Gary Collins Gene Evans Genevieve Ascencio George Pitts Gina Mack Gretchen Harnick Harlan Bratcher Harold Koda

Hazel Clark Heico Wesselius Heidi Ihrig Heike Jenss Henry Hilsky Howard Bressler Hugette Hubbard Ilaria Taddeucci Sassolini Isa Gouverneur Isabel Archer James Pervis Jamie Thomas Jason McCarthy Jay Bell Jeff Staple Jemma Gray Jen Rhee Jenne Lombardo Jennifer Jan Jesse Villalobos Jim Ramer Joanna Coles Joel Towers Joerg Hartmann John Miscione John Quinn John Haffner Layden Josephine Tirado Josh Chapman Judy Cheng Julian Andrews Julie Gilhart Karen Coe Kate Williams Katie Dienne Keith Baptista Kelly Grossi Kelly Francis Krista Ynostrosa Kyle Farmer Laetitia Wolff Lauren McKirdy Leslie Alfin LFUSA Lisa DeBenedittis Lisa Grocott Lori Singer Louise Palmer Luciano Bandi Luisella Meloni Lynn Dervis MADE Maija Komulainen Marco Waschke Maria Chen Mario Granitto Mark Silver Marketa Uhlirova Marlene Campbell Martin Greenfield Marvic Paulo Mary McGraw Mathan Ratinam Matthew Caballero Maya Bramwell Mazdack Rassi Meredith Mullane Merton Owens Michael Seiz Michele Wesen Bryant Michelle Franck Michelle Cordero Mike Kiselak Mil Ruiz MILK STUDIOS Miodrag Mitrasinovic Nadine Bourgeois Nancy Caton NARS Natalia Pilipenka

Natalie Taitt Neil Gilks Nilgin Yusuf Nina Garcia Olivier Theyskens Ornella Bignami Pamela Klein Paolo Rossi Pascale Gatzen Pasquale D’Abbraccio Patti Cohen Paula Giraldo Paula Gozzo Peter Dervis Phyllis Dillon Phyllis Magidson Pierre Rougier Pinori Filati Spa PPR Priscilla Holcomb Raoul Rickenberg Rebecca Arnold Rebecca and Mike Richard Preston Rick Darling Rizvana Braxton Robert MacDonald Robert Mitchell Robert Dinardi Robert Kirkbride Roger Hie Ross Tibbles Roy Spiewak Sal Mendez Sally James Samantha Garrett Sara Kozlowski Sarah Mower Sarah Broach Sarah Lawrence Sarah Burton Sean Kelly Shana Agid Shannon Bell Price Shannon Welch Sharmel Williams Sheila Parham Lebwith Sibylle Klose Siki Im Simeon Poulin Simon Doucet Simon Collins Simone Douglas Soo Chon Stacy Roman Stefan Seigel Stephanie Ellis Su Ng Sue Childs Susan Sawyer Susan Austin Suzanne Weinstock THE FANCY Tiffany Norman Tim Marshall Timo Rissanen Toby Armstrong Todd Greenfield Tom Hartshorn Tony Charalambous Tortex Enginerring Ltd Trino Verkade Urban Zen Valerie Steele Vanessa Semmens Vidya Narine Vince Aletti Winni Lok Yvonne Watson Zowie Broach

All Admissions Inquiries: Parsons The New School for Design Office of Graduate Admission 72 Fifth Avenue – 3rd floor New York, NY 10011 Phone: 212 229 5150 or 800 292 3040 Graduate Inquiries: thinkparsonsgrad@newschool.edu

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’ve always felt passionately about supporting the next generation of American designers. As a Parsons alumna, I can think of no  better place to nurture and support our future. The MFA Fashion Design and Society program gives the most promising designers the space and a place to experiment and explore their true potential. As the market becomes even more global and more competitive, it is essential to push the creative envelope, while staying on top of developing technology. This level of education offers the sophistication that will make all the difference. The results of the first graduating class say it all. I am so impressed with the strong quality of work on view here. It is clear that the program will make an important contribution to American fashion.

Executive Dean, Parsons The New School for Design

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n 1904, Parsons established the undergraduate fashion design program, the first of its kind in the United States. When viewing the work of this inaugural class of the new graduate program, it is clear that the school’s position at the leading edge of fashion education carries forward into the 21st century. The garments featured in this volume demonstrate the diversity of our students, who employ a broad range of technologies, research methods, and global perspectives in their process. Still, the works are unified by a sense of the transformative potential of fashion. Collectively, they signal a shift to understanding fashion as a system, a connective practice that considers material resources, human capital, and artistic vision in the context of a broader social framework. It is a pleasure to congratulate the students for their extraordinary designs, the faculty who have worked so closely with them, Shelley Fox for her inspired leadership of the program, and Donna Karan for her remarkable support.

Dean, School of Fashion

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hen the First Eighteen students embarked on their MFA journey in September 2010, we wanted one thing for them—to do brilliant work. That’s what Parsons has always stood for, and that was what Donna Karan expected when she endowed the resources to create this unique program. The students came to New York City from around the world with open minds and high expectations. Our team worked with the fashion industry’s global leaders to instruct and inspire them; they were urged to experiment with all that Parsons, The New School and New York City could provide. The results speak for themselves. We are incredibly proud of The First Eighteen, of all that they have accomplished, and of what our faculty and staff have built. Now watch them go out into the world and do great things.

Donna Karan Professor of Fashion and Director of MFA Fashion Design and Society

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f there was ever a time to stake out a personal vision, defy market conventions, and rev up the creative engines, it is now. I cannot think of a more critical time for all thinking to become global. This program cultivates openness and a personal conversation with the students, fostering both a rigorous and critical approach, which are essential for nurturing the talent that is evident within this magazine. After developing the program, and personally recruiting and directing this group of students, the journey over the past two years has been both challenging and invigorating for all involved, and the vision of the program has manifested itself through the work produced. It gives me a great personal satisfaction to see where the students were when they arrived to the mature designers that they have now become, armed with a personal identity which will help take them forward to their next steps. I am honored to see them embark on their new beginnings and unleash their visions to change our perceptions of the future. This is the start.

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Visual Map: Contributors / Projects / Internships The First Projects The First Exhibition The First Collections

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty Graduate Fashion Design Competition In conjunction with the exhibition Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, The Costume Institute at The Metrtopolitan Museum of Art held a competition for fashion design graduate students in Spring 2011 in honor of the artist’s lifelong dedication to supporting students and emerging talent in the field.

In Collaboration with Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia During the Pitti Filati in July 2011, Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia presented an installation of work by three students from the MFA Fashion Design and Society. A collaboration of innovation and heritage, the exhibition featured 12 garments that express the quality and value of the versatile and natural fibers produced by the company.

Feel the Yarn 2011 at Pitti Immagine Filati The most important fashion schools in the world meet the Tuscan yarns: Feel the Yarn continues its training project aiming to further develop the creativity of yarns produced by the most qualified Tuscan spinning mills with the most prestigious international fashion and design schools.

Lost Time is Never Found Again: International Fashion Showcase 2012 Lost Time is Never Found Again was part of the inaugural International Fashion Showcase that took place during London Fashion Week, February 2012. The theme of the showcase, ‘emerging talent’ presented a selection of designers whom they feel best represents the future of fashion in their region.

exhibition: Page 11–15

collections: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

PAULA CHENG — Untamed LUCIA CUBA — ARTICULO 6 CLAIRE DIEDERICHS — la Défense Apologétique de mes Monstres CARLY ELLIS — That moment before it all makes sense BECKETT FOGG RUBY HOETTE — col•lec•tion JU YEON HONG — Unfinished Creative Work AINA BECK —  SOOJIN KANG — Code and Decode NORIKO KIKUCHI — WHITE SINEAD LAWLOR — Transitions JIE LI — Reminiscence of Sky KAORU OSHIMA — Human Figures in Motion JADE ROZENBROEK — Jack & Jade TALIA SHUVALOV — reFold/ ELISA VAN JOOLEN — 11" x 17" MAYUMI YAMAMOTO — Persephone QIANYAN ZHAO (WEN) — Black on Black on black

A showcase of work by the first graduating students of the new MFA program in Fashion Design and Society. The Exhibition: The First Eighteen students present their personal vision with a focus on process and identity, which culminates in a body of work including highly executed innovative clothing, film and other multimedia presentations.

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FIRST

mfa fashion design and society The FIRST MFA Fashion Design and Society cohort of graduates visualized through the mapping of the students origin, their projects, competitions, internships, exhibitions and all of the designers, lecturers and industry speakers who contributed that made this FIRST graduating year possible.

STUDENTS: Paula Cheng

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS / LECTURERS:

• Claire Diederichs • Carly Ellis • Beckett Fogg • Ruby Hoette • Jun Juyeon Hong • Aina Beck Hussain • Soojin Kang • Lucia Cuba Oroza

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• Sinéad Lawlor • Jie Li • Kaoru Oshima • Jade Rozenbroek • Talia Shuvalov • Elisa van Joolen •

Mayumi Yamamoto

• Barneys New York – NYC • Donna Karan – NYC • Gabi Asfour, ThreeASFOUR – NYC • Gucci – London • Joanna Coles – NYC • Knit Illustrated, NYC • Le New Black – Paris • Neil Gilks, DVF – NYC • Nina Garcia – NYC • Olivier Theyskens – NYC • Alastair O’Neill – London

Noriko Kikuchi

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Qianyan Zhao (WEN)

Patrick Cabesset, Le Officiel – Paris

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Pierre Rougier, PR Consulting – NYC Sarah Mower – London Sean Lennon – NYC

Shannon Bell Price, The Metropolitan Museum of Art – NYC Siki Im – NYC Stefan Siegel, Stoll, NYC

•Not Just a Label – London • •Boudicca – London

The Knit Resource Centre, NYC Warnaco – NYC Zowie Broach,


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PROJECTS:

EXHIBITIONS

Alexander McQueen / The Metropolitan Museum of Art – NYC Diane von Furstenberg – NYC Donna Karan – NYC

Feel the Yarn – Florence, Italy & Tokyo, Japan Oliver Theyskens for Theyskens Theory – NYC

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• Zegna Baruffa – Florence, Italy & Shanghai, China Touch the Fabric – Milan, Italy

INTERNSHIPS

Alexander McQueen / The Metropolitan Museum of Art – NYC

• Feel the Yarn – Florence, Italy and Tokyo, Japan Arnhem Biennal – Arnhem, The Netherlands

Iberoamerican Design Bieniale – Madrid, Spain Lost Time is Never Found Again – London

• OO was it a Dream? – Norway Made in New York – NYC

Touch the Fabric – Milan, Italy

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ALL NYC

• Cynthia Rowley • Diane Von Furstenberg • DKNY • LF USA • Keds • Marc Jacobs • Opening Ceremony • Peter Som • Polo Ralph Lauren • Regatta • Three ASFOUR • Tim Hamilton • Calvin Klein Collections

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projects:

Graduate Fashion Design Competition

In conjunction with the exhibition Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art held a competition for fashion design graduate students in the spring of 2011, in honor of the artist’s lifelong dedication to supporting students and emerging talent in the field. In recognition of Alexander McQueen’s pivotal role in shaping fashion through technique, narrative, collaboration, and showmanship participants were asked to use these aspects as inspiration to create garments that will continue to push fashion forward. McQueen was a technical and conceptual designer influenced by art, literature, music, history, nature, science, and contemporary culture at large. The competition aimed to encourage his legacy regarding approach as he was masterful in his ability to create objects of fantasy set in spectacular runway presentations to articulate his vision. In addition, he was able to distill these ideas to wearable garments and build an international brand.

1 Mayumi Yamamoto

Out of the thirty entrants, a blind jury selected four finalists, Aina Beck, Paula Cheng, Mayumi Yamamoto and Jie Li—all of whom are students

2 Aina Beck Hussain

of the MFA Fashion Design and Society program at Parsons The New School for Design. For the last phase of the competition, each turned

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one of their illustrations into a final garment, presented in video and images. Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen, and

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Andrew Bolton, curator in The Costume Institute judged the competition. For further images and films please see:

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Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

http://fashion.parsons.edu/2011/09/18/alexander-mcqueen-savage-beauty-graduate-fashion-design-competition/

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Feel The Yarn 2011 at Pitti Immagine Filati

The project, promoted by Tuscany Region and ICE—the Italian Institute for Foreign Trade, coordinated by Toscana Promozione and realised in collaboration with CPF—Consorzio Promozione Filati and Pitti Immagine, involved 21 students from seven prestigious international design schools: Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design (UK), Royal College of Art (UK), Bunka Fashion College (Japan), Parsons The New School for Design (USA), BIFT Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology (China), Senac São Paulo (Brasil) and Polimoda (Italy).The project was divided into two inter-related parts: - a training focused on yarn’s features with a week stay in Prato (March 2011) production district where students attended seminars and sessions on yarn production process, visited companies of the productive process and selected yarns to realize the outfits to participate in the award - the participation at Pitti Immagine Filati (Florence, July 2011), in a special area dedicated to the project, with an exhibition/competition among the outfits created by students with Tuscan yarns. The winner was announced during the final day of Pitti Filati. The outfit, which distinguished itself for its creativity and interpretation of the yarn used, experimental working methods and adherence to the theme of the competition was by Soojin Kang, a student on the MFA at Parsons. For further images and films please see: http://fashion.parsons.edu/2011/09/18/feel-the-yarn/

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In Collaboration with

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3 Kaoru Oshima

Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia During the summer of July 2011, Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia presented an installation of work by three students from the MFA Fashion Design and Society at Pitti Filati in Florence. A collaboration of innovation and heritage, the exhibition

featured 12 garments that express the quality and value of the versatile and natural fibres produced by the company. The

three designers, Noriko Kikuchi, Sinead Lawlor and Talia Shuvalov, had the opportunity to visit Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia

and gain knowledge and access to the yarn production from the raw material to the final product. They designed their collections from stitch development, color combination, silhouette, toiling, fitting and all aspects of garment making. For further images and films please see: http://fashion.parsons.edu/2011/09/18/zegna-baruffa-lane-borgosesia/

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1 Talia Shuvalov

2 Sinéad Lawlor

3 Noriko Kikuchi

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International Fashion Showcase 2012:

Lost Time is Never Found Again Parsons The New School for Design, New York visits the Benjamin Franklin House, a hidden gem and precious heritage asset—the world’s only remaining Franklin residence, which has been brought back to its 18th century lustre as a dynamic museum. Dr Benjamin Franklin—scientist, diplomat, philosopher, inventor, US Founding Father and more—called 36 Craven Street his London home. Built circa 1730, the workaday Georgian building holds a Grade 1 architectural listing and showcased the work of the recently launched MFA Fashion Design and Society program. The showcase presented the work of 10 designers from projects such as the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty Graduate competition in collaboration with The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Feel the Yarn competition held at Pitti Filati, Florence in July 2012, both competitions won by the MFA Fashion Design & Society Program designers. Other projects include a collaboration with the esteemed mill, Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, Italy. Lost Time Is Never Found Again formed part of the International Emerging Talent Showcase sponsored by the British Council and the British Fashion Council, where the public and international press and buyers explored work by the world’s most innovative young designers during London Fashion Week 2012. For the event, more than 20 embassies and cultural centers throughout London—including those of Australia, Belgium, Botswana, China, Estonia, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Korea, Nigeria and the United States—hosted exhibitions of work by their nation’s best emerging fashion designers. The curation by Tony Charalambous presented the vision of the MFA in response to house and its history. All photography by Ellie Laycock (www.ellielaycock.com) For further images and films please see: http://fashion.parsons.edu/2012/02/08/international-fashion-showcase-2012/

All work from Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty Project, Above: Dress by Mayumi Yamamato Below: from left to right: Paula Cheng, Mayumi Yamamoto, Aina Beck and Jie Li

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All work from Zegna Baruffa Project Above: Dresses by Noriko Kikuchi Below: Dresses by Talia Shuvalov

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Background Dresses by Sinead Lawlor (Zegna Baruffa project) Foreground Dresses by Soojin Kang (Feel the Yarn 2011 project)

Background Dresses by Kaoru Oshima (Feel the Yarn 2011 project) Foreground Dresses by Beckett Fogg (Donna Karan project)

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NORIKO KIKUCHI – White

JIE LI – Reminiscence of Sky

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CARLY ELLIS – That moment before it all makes sense

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QIANYAN ZHAO (WEN) – Black on Black on black

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JADE ROZENBROEK – Jack & Jade

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MAYUMI YAMAMOTO – Persephone

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AINA BECK –

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PAULA CHENG – Untamed

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16 ELISA VAN JOOLEN – 11” x 17”

BECKETT FOGG

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TALIA SHUVALOV – reFold/

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SOOJIN KANG – Code and Decode


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JU YEON HONG – Unfinished Creative Work

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KAORU OSHIMA – Human Figures in Motion

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LUCIA CUBA – ARTICULO 6

SINEAD LAWLOR – Transitions

OLIVO & STYLESIGHT IMAGES – With grateful acknowledgment to Lanificio dell’ Olivo and Stylesight for their contribution and generosity to the MFA Fashion Design & Society Exhibition.

Photography Credits: Martin Seck, Stylesight Team, Jonathan KYLE Farmer and Shelley Fox

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Untamed The collection is inspired by my personal fascination with man and mythical beasts and their relationship as reflected in Greek Mythology and in Art History. It is a collection of fantastic bestiary that explores the symbolism of primitivism, sacrifice, innocence, admiration, strength, cruelty and love between the two supreme beings. Variation of yarn combinations knitted by hand and on hand-operated knitting machines.

Untamed (+1) 347 313 8887 info@paulacheng.com www.paulacheng.com


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MFA FASHION DESIGN AND SOCIETY

What society means to me: Society is a complex formation of individuals that cultivates collaborative relationships, generates innovative ideas and pushes the evolution of cultures.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Exclusive Sponsorship by Lanificio Dell’olivo S.P.A.

Photography: Haley Bueschlen & Yi Chen Zhou Lighting: Dylan Entelis Video Editing: Haley Bueschlen Photo Shoot Production: Davis Carrasquillo Make Up: Victor Noble Hair Styling: Mari From 87 Salon Model: Phylicia From Muse Accessories: Elk Eleanor Lee Jewelry Footwear: Giuseppe Zanotti

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Articulo 6 (+1) 917 755 5917 PE 99413*0751 luciacuba@luciacuba.com www.luciacuba.com www.articulo6.pe


A R T I C U L O

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“ARTICULO 6: Narratives of gender, strength and politics” is a project that aims to raise awareness about the case of forced sterilizations implemented from 1996-2000 during the government of Alberto Fujimori in Peru. The name of the project refers to the Sixth Article of the Second Chapter in the General Health Law of Peru, which establishes that “all persons have the right to choose freely the contraceptive method they prefer, and to receive appropriate information on the methods available and the risks”. The project explores different narratives related to the case of forced sterilizations in Peru, and uses the testimonies of the victims, fragments of political speeches, research documents and laws, as well as other textual and visual content, as raw materials for the project’s garments and actions.

ARTICULO 6 consists of a collection of garments and “12 actions”. The collection consists of 34 garments made through mixed techniques, using embroidery and prints on cotton twill and cotton canvas. The collection is inspired in the Andean “polleras” or skirts, the result of a process of deconstruction and reinterpretation. The blouses and suits refer to the uniformization and militarization of a public policy, aiming to evoke the strength and capacity of victims to defend themselves and overcome the irreversible. The images and symbols printed in the fabrics comment on the universe of institutions, activists, press and characters related to the case. The “12 actions” of the project will take place throughout the year after its launch, which took place in May 2012. These actions are expressed as installations, performances, meta-garments+objects, photos, videos, collaborations and workshops. The project includes a website www.articulo6.pe that contains information about the case, the project, images and related content.

NARRATIVES OF GENDER, STRENGTH AND POLITICS A project by Lucia Cuba

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What society means to me: A place for finding, a space for interaction, the reading of our representations—and their interpretations—the exchange of knowledge, actions, culture and reactions. Get involved: www.articulo6.pe

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“hands pulling up skirt” printed on garment ©Pierre-Yves Ginet [from “The dissident women of Anta”


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Mauricio Delfin, Victor Cuba, Amalia Oroza, Rocío Cuba, Maria Esther Mogollón, Hilaria Supa, Aurelia Paccohuanca, Micaela Flores, Libia Pinares, AMAEF-Cusco, Esther Espinoza, Rosa Viteri, Sofia Savin, Otto Von Busch, Yasmin Dajes, Daniela Sánchez, Erasmo Wong, Carla Rincón, Eduardo Delgado, Juan Mifflin, Mónica Torrejón, Pierre-Yves Gynet, Jose Ballenas, Tatiana Pages, and to everyone that will still make this project possible.

Photographer: Erasmo Wong Seoane Assistant production: Joy Rosenburn Styling: Lucia Cuba & Yasmin Dajes Hair: Olga Sonco Model: Carla Rincón for IceBerg

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la DĂŠfense ApologĂŠtique de mes Monstres (+1) 917 951 2303 (+44) 7900 438836 claire.diederichs@mac.com


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MFA FASHION DESIGN AND SOCIETY

What society means to me: Society is what makes us human. It is our capacity to recognize ourselves in each other, and the innate ability to co-operate and co-exist. To be a part of Society is to be a part of the larger system, which frames the greater existential questions of life: time and space. The complex interactions, which occur between us within Society are ultimately what enable us to define ourselves.

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Photo Cinema Photographer: by Vourneaux Vourneaux JahimJahim (Vourneaux.com) (Vourneaux.com) Models Make-up: by Supreme MAC (Kate Model: Driscoll, Kate Driscoll, Eleanor Eleanor Hayes, Katharina Hayes, Katharina Rembi) Cosmetics Rembi at Supreme by MAC

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That moment before it all makes sense WHAT? The process began by observing architecture in New York, which then led to line drawings that were used to inform garment construction, draping and graphic prints. NEXT? Viewing a documentary on the Ndbele tribe of South Africa, a parallel emerged between my geometric line drawings and their tribal artwork. WHO? The tribal paintings represent pride and showmanship, qualities that resembled the meticulous displays of New York News stands. These similarities formed the basis for my color, textile and graphic exploration. WHEN? Collecting imagery from Skype video chats where moments became pixilated led to an obsession with the idea of viewing an image before it was complete, and the idea of a technological breakdown creating an accidental art form. HOW? Using screen grabs to capture the moment before the software has time to fully process images of newsstands, I created designs that united the original inspiration, the Ndebele tribe, enabling me to fuse three seemingly different core influences. The collection isn’t arranged into looks, but a collection of interchangeable pieces. The client could buy any piece to wear with another, and style it how they want to wear it. The collection, as are all of my designs, is sports and street wear inspired. Taking inspiration from menswear, and translating this into high-end womens fashion. The collection consists of huge oversized jackets, as if a girl stepped into her fathers clothing, as well as sports bras, tee-dresses and low slung trousers. Taking inspiration from technical sportswear, the oversized pieces feature body conscious lines and cutting, and print placements reflect and enhance this theme. Sublimation printing was the technique used to translate my graphic designs onto fabric, as it gives the brightest and most intense colors. The heating process means only polyester could be used, including polyester denims, jerseys and sweat fabrics.

That moment before it all makes sense (+1) 646 250 1272 (+44) 744 630 375 mail@carlyellis.com www.carlyellis.com


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What society means to me: Society is a collection, consisting of a multitude of overlapping groups. All of the groups coexist, sometimes synchronizing and sometimes colliding. It is not just people, and not just a place, it’s the result of a multitude of cultures, practices, preferences, routines and opinions, all doing what they can to co-exist.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

I would like to say a huge thank you for all the people that have been so generous as to sponsor “That Moment Before it All Makes Sense,� especially Nicole Piach at Digital Print Specialties, without her belief in my project, the collection would not exist. Furthermore I would like to thank the people that out of the goodness of their hearts worked on this project, Hannah Jinkins my intern and savior, Richard Darlington, Anke Grundel and Natalia Pilipenka. Lastly, I would like to say thank you to my family, through whatever means necessary have managed to support my neon colored printed dreams.

Photographer: Anthony Friend - www.anthonyfriend.com Hair: Takayuki Shibata Make-up: Toby Klinger Model: Emoni and Madeline at Click Shoes: Aldo With Thanks to Alina Zakait Casting Photographs edited using ColorStrokes by MacPhun. Video stills credits: Videographer and Digital Artist: Scott Brasher scottbrasherdesign.com Hair: Takayuki Shibata Make-up: Toby Klinger Model: Emoni and Madeline at Click Shoes: Aldo, Jeffrey Campbell and Nike With Thanks to Alina Zakait Casting

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beckett fogg (+1) 859 312 9266 beckettfogg@gmail.com


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What society means to me: society; association; alliance; bond; connection; passage; entrance; threshold; inception; birth; creation

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Photographer: Mark Drew Hair & Make-up: Edward Cruz

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col·lec·tion Using the word ‘collection’ as the starting point my thesis project explores what other forms a ‘collection’ of clothing could take and in doing so reveals alternate ways of engaging with the clothes we wear. The use of the word ‘collection’ within the fashion context refers to a set of garments that relate to each other, produced and presented seasonally by a brand or designer. However a ‘collection’ can take many different forms and be bound by various conditions that have the possibility to extend beyond one season or one designer. This is a project exploring multiple histories of the origin, ownership and use of clothing. The garment is a unique artifact that carries evidence of human activities and transactions. Focusing on how these aspects impact the perceived ‘worth’ of a garment, I observe, document and propose ways of interacting with clothing through redistribution and reinvention (appropriation) and question the accepted understandings of possession, authenticity and value within the fashion system. The project is a ‘collection of collections’—a body of work that incorporates image, garment and digital/web elements.

col•lec•tion (+1) 646 657 5344 rubyhoette@gmail.com www.rubyhoette.com


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Collections, stores and sets of things

agglomeration arsenal assemblage assembly assortment bale bank bank bank batch battery bevy body book bundle cache collection compilation conglomeration constellation corpus crop display ensemble gear grab bag harvest hoard hodgepodge hotchpotch kit library miscellany mother lode nest nexus pack package deal paraphernalia phalanx portfolio portfolio registry reserve reserve sampler section series set set set smorgasbord stash stock stockpile storage store storehouse string subset survival kit sweep system treasury variety welter

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- a large group of different things - a large collection of things you can use to achieve a particular purpose - a group of things or people gathered together - a group of parts that are connected and form one unit - a group or set of things of various types - a large quantity of something such as paper, cotton fibers, or hay tied into a large tight package for storing or sending - a large collection, especially of information or ideas - a store of something that is available for use when it is needed - a large number of things in a row, especially pieces of equipment - a number of things or people that arrive or are dealt with at the same time - a group of similar things - a group of people or things of the same kind - a large amount or collection of something such as knowledge, information, or work - a set of small objects, such as stamps, tickets, or matches, fastened together inside a paper cover - a group of things that have been tied together, especially so that you can carry them easily - a quantity of things that have been hidden, especially weapons - a group of things - a set of things such as songs or stories produced by different people - a collection of many different types of things - a group of people or things that are similar or related - a collection of writing, for example all the writings of one person - several things that happen or are produced at the same time - an arrangement of things for people to look at - a group of things that look good or combine well together - the special clothes and equipment that you use for a particular activity - a mixture of things that have not been put together carefully - something that has been collected - a large amount of something that someone has saved or hidden somewhere - a collection or mixture of things that do not belong together or have been put together carelessly - a hodgepodge - all the pieces necessary to put together something such as a model car or aircraft - a collection of books, records, etc. that belong to one person or are related to one particular subject - a collection of things of various kinds - a supply of something that you can use - a set of similar things of different sizes that fit inside each other - a closely connected group of people or things, often forming the central part of something - a set of things such as products wrapped or tied together - a set of different things that are offered together and must be accepted together - a set of objects, especially those used for a particular activity - a group of people or things standing or placed close together - a collection of pictures, photographs, or documents that you use as examples of the work that you have done - used about other sets of things that belong to someone - a collection of official records, or the place where it is kept - a supply of something that a country or an organization can use when they need to - a supply of something that someone has and can use when they need to - a collection of samples of products that a company makes for people to try - something, or a group of things, that forms part of a larger group - a set of similar things that follow one after another - a group of things of the same type that belong together - a group of different objects that are used together for a particular purpose - a number of ideas, rules, facts, or principles that form a group - a collection of similar things from which you can choose - an amount of things that are kept hidden or safe - an amount of something that you keep so that you can use it when you need it - a large collection of things that may be needed - used for storing things - a supply of something that is kept to be used later - a large quantity, supply, or collection - a group of similar or connected things - a small group of people or things that is a part of a larger group - a collection of equipment that you need to stay alive in emergencies if you are somewhere far from help - a range of different things that together form a larger unit - a set of connected things that work together for a particular purpose - a collection of valuable things - a collection or number of people, things, ideas, etc. that are all different from one another - a messy collection of different things

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MFA FASHION DESIGN AND SOCIETY

What society means to me: Society is context: the space, physical and ideological in which the object of clothing and the ritual of fashion manifest and acquire layers of meaning and value. Society is where fashion exists and vice versa. The two are inseparable and in constant dialogue.

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By dissecting or fragmenting garments into pieces along original seam lines, these elements can be repeated, isolated, combined and layered in different ways. Through this process our normal patterns of wearing can be transformed and the body framed and revealed in new forms. Through dissection the clothing can be understood not as something stable or fixed but as being just at another stage in its history. The garment becomes moveable: an object in constant flux.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

I would like to thank Emma Hoette and Elisa van Joolen for their endless help and inspiration. This project was made possible by the generous support of Prins Bernhard Cultuur Fonds, Koningin Sophiafonds, Stichting de Fundatie van de Vrijvrouwe van Renswoude and Setshop. 74


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Unfinished Creative Work (+1) 646 894 0558 jun.y.hong@gmail.com www.junjyhong.com


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Unfinished creative work Fine artist Andrea Lopez Garcia’s drawing book was starting point for my collection. His drawings represent the various lines and shapes that form the core definitions of the object and its iconography. The idea of transforming such an artistic process into a sartorial form was a challenging one. This involved serious stylistic experiments. I created a variety of deconstructions of fully constructed jackets and overlaid multiple lines via digitalized images of deconstructed garments to find elements to correlate stylistic multiplicity. The final pieces at might appear as if they are incomplete but are in fact complete, and are executed with innovative shapes, lines, and details. “Unfinished creative work� encourages the audience to imagine and redefine the notion of conventional sartorial forms. The final product leads to the further continuation of the creative process and in some ways initiates more powerful messages than the final work themselves.

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What society means to me: 1. Community of human access 2. Reference from social interactions 3. Reference group of people in certain frame

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Yohan Cho. My parents, Jason Jae Hyun Kim, Monika Yang, Jong Hyuk Park, Alan Nam. So Jung Lim, Bonkuk Koo. Photographer: Ryan Yoon www.ryanyoon.com Hair & Make-up: Aki Maekubo Model: Leijla Hodzic at Fusion Model Management Photographer: Mariano Garcia Hair & Make-up: Roberto Casey Model: Kristen Knapp at Elite Model Management

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Mojave (+1) 347 9984 6646 (+47) 477 01 707 ainahus@gmail.com


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MFA FASHION DESIGN AND SOCIETY

What society means to me: Society is a record of time, made up of layers of individual stories, conversations and moments of everyday life. It is from this that I take my inspiration. I choose to communicate visually, working in layers of information and transparency creating a dialogue. My work shows a changing view though a pathway of lost text with moments of opacity that reveal gaps of light. It relates to the quote from the Swedish artist Mamma Andersson: “To make a concentrated feeling for something, you have to reduce it to the few small things that can tell a story. Then you can make your own history.” 86


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Photographer: Susanne Kindt Hair & Make-up: Jose Monzon Model: Amelia Aye at LA models

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Mamma Pappa Alfred Familien Lampe Silje Katherine Sviggum Jannicken Lampe Vidar Steinhaug Hilde Barsnes Kari Torleifsdottir Soreide Runa Roald Elisabeth Haugerud Hilde Holta Lysell Anna Rose Hankow Jan Lame Susanne Kindt Victoria Alice Hill Sophie Gray Cowley Neil Gilks Daniel Reynolds Alex McCarthy Thank you for the amazing support at Diane von Furstenberg

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Code & Decode I was very interested in exploring the intersection between design and technology. Inspired by the QR code, I translated my website address into a code and brought this as a tool for my design development, such as color blocking and pattern cutting in my knitwear collection.

Code & Decode (+1) 551 482 3435 kangs357@gmail.com soojinkangdesign@gmail.com www.kangsoojin.com


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What society means to me: A collective of ideas and values defining a period in history, society is evolving and is impressionable, its creative influences have been strengthened with technological innovations while still remaining sensitive to historical values.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

My father- K.C Kang, My mother- Kyungsoon Lee, My sister- Suran. My brother in law- Dooyoon. My dear friends- Jamie and Ben. And to my boyfriend- Alex Jeggs. Photographer: Mariano Garcia Hair & Make-up: Hector Simancas

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White (+1) 917 657 2239 beibeinyc@gmail.com www.norikokikuchi.com


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White Tracing my design philosophy, the journey started from looking back, last year I have created a collection based on the theme “Emptiness”, oppose to its meaning of nothingness, I took the term from Buddhism, where it’s the highest state of mind, which was something I particularly interested in at the time. In design world, it is a concept introduced by Kenya Hara, who is the art director behind the brand Muji. “Emptiness does not merely imply simplicity of form, logical sophistication and the like. Rather, emptiness provides a space within which our imaginations can run free, vastly enriching our powers of perception and our mutual comprehension. Emptiness is this potential.” Hara explains. In the collection I created, one of the most important messages was to leave a gap for the viewers to their own understanding.

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What society means to me: Society is an infinite number of circles, which allows us to bond and love, in order to experience from the not knowing to the knowing, an incomplete reality with selected senses.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Special thanks to my family: Mom, Dad, Grandma and Grandpa. To whom has help me grow as a designer at MFA: Shelley Fox, Jonathan KYLE Farmer, Isabel Archer, Anke Gruendel. To my dear friends: Liia Singh, Chuan Chen, team at Du Monde and Brother and Sisters at MFA class of 2012. Photographer: Anna Moller Video artist: Margret Seema Takyar Hair & Make Up: Sophie Ono Model: Alexandra Grady at MUSE Studio: SUN studios Shoes: Loeffler Randall

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Transitions (+1) 908 361 9907 (+35) 386 402 0335 sineadlawlor@gmail.com www.sineadlawlor.com


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What society means to me: Society to me is what challenges us, what brings us together and what makes us think a little bit different.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

I would firstly like to thank my parents and family for supporting me over the last two years. Completing this Masters is something I could not have done without them and their support. I would also like to thank all my friends who supported me here and abroad, not only mentally and physically, but also kept me sane when the pressure was on, thanking you DPR. I would like to especially thank everyone that slaved away in the studio with me, Dee, Roisin, Emma, Alex, Marie and Orlaith. I would like to thank the DVF crew and Neil, as well as Amber, Marie, Frank, Anne-Marie and Mel for all their support. I also would like to thank Yigit Bey and all my sponsors who I could not have completed this collection without, their generosity made it possible for my vision to become a reality. Finally I would like to thank the tutors and all the great people I’ve met while at Parsons, including my fellow classmates who made the last two years what it was. Styling: Melaney Oldenhof Stylist Assistant: Marco Gurgel Hair: Christian Miller Make-Up: Susie Sobol Shoes: Gio Diev

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Reminiscence of sky This collection challenged me to address the most fundamental of elements of designing clothes, that of craft, technique and making. I combined pleating and quilting, overlapping multiple layers of chiffon to create new colors. The Japanese photographer Yamayochi, who lived on the summit of Mt. Fuji over a period of five years photographing the sunrise, inspired the palette. The results of this effort are often spectacular: at times the photographs almost seem to show an alien world, full of brilliant yellows, searing oranges, and radiant blues. But this book is not just about showing beautiful scenery, which is far removed from our daily lives. By reaching a point as far away from the earth--and as close to outer space as possible, Yamauchi asks the viewer to consider the fragility of their own existence.

JIE LI Reminiscence of sky (+1) 917 868 0219 jessicajielee@gmail.com


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What society means to me: Society, for me, it is an adventure. I am scared to join this adventure, but, at the same time I am attracted by it too. It would be bringing me happy, success and wealth, or pain, failure and poor. However everyone are growing up during the process of the adventure. I hope I will be doing it step by step, and enjoy the process.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

FAMILY–Yanping Zhou (mother) PROFESSORS – Shelley Fox and Jonathan KYLE Farmer. FRIENDS – Yichen Zhou

Photographer: Mariano Garcia Hair & Make-up: Ljupka Arsovska Models -Larissa and Dasha

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Human figures in motion (+1) 917 250 4377 kaokao15june@gmail.com


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Š Kaoru Oshima 2012

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Human figures in motion My collection is inspired by human figures in motion. I was collecting images by taking pictures at public spaces in New York and making collages. I became fascinated about making clothes based on those collages. I was also inspired by sculptures by Isamu Noguchi, who also depicted human figures in motion. I found the connection by coincidence. I worked on the designs from a 360-degree perspective to achieve unexpected perspectives from the front, back and two side angles.

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What society means to me: Is a sort of result of every kind of decision of how we want our life, and how fashion impacts to our life‌Fashion is really a migration of cultures.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Hiromi Oshima, Hideto Oshima, Mitsuyo Sekiguchi, Esther OY, Erika Kido Kumah, Fabio Sacchi, Luciano Bandi Photographer: Jose Manuel Arguelles Film Editor: Alisa Huff Make-up: Gayle Carbajal Model: Lorena at MUSE NYC

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Jade Rozenbroek (+1) 646 546 0305 j.rozenbroek@gmail.com jaderozenbroek.carbonmade.com


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What society means to me: Society is about learning, challenging and improving within an ever expanding world, learning to compromise in order to improve and grow, and push boundaries.

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Model: Elias Montalvo at Identity Models Accessories: Eleven Consignment Boutique

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reFold/ reFold / the collection serves as a precarious externalization of consumer culture and presents ideas of accumulation and materiality. I am interested in how consumables, however excessive, may become part of human condition and necessity. Repetitive accumulation and repetitive consumption stimulates ones need to consume many different ‘types’ of products with the same basic function. The collection explores the re-consumption of basic elements of dress such as the tee shirt, jean & sweater. Repeating the cycle of consumption through sourcing, fabrication and make of the garments, I aim to redirect the position of these basic items into a luxury market. Each tee shirt and sweater has been developed through a process of deconstruction, where vintage tee shirts have been knitted and woven together before reconstructed into a new variation of the item. For each tee shirt parts of 5-7 vintage tee shirts have been utilized in the reconstruction.

reFold/ (+1) 917 972 9072 (+61) 416 032 761 info@TaliaShuvalov.com Talia.Shuvalov@gmail.com www.TaliaShuvalov.com


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MFA FASHION DESIGN AND SOCIETY

What society means to me: Society—a grouping of interactions resulting in shared identity—common culture—a network of overlapping ideas—distinctions within formulate patterns—patterns of behavior dictate form, provide structure

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

A very special thank you to Paul and Judith Steiner for their unwavering encouragement.

Photographer: Cara Stricker Assistant: Roma D’Arrietta Make-up: Stoj Bulic Special Thanks to Paul and Judith SteinerÂ

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11” x 17” 11” x 17” is an assemblage of acquired garments using the cutout as a procedure to create new perspectives on what already exists. My intention with this collection is to research garments from within various categories in the fashion industry—from mass-market to high-end fashion and everything in between—and investigate the diverse modes of production by looking at design, fabrication, distribution and time. The collection is a collaborative project whereby communication is intrinsically linked to the process of creation. It began with my sending letters and emails to fashion companies to request donated garments—this led to a dialogue with these companies that compelled me to think carefully and frame my intentions. I used a selection of these garments, from companies such as Banana Republic, Theory, Calvin Klein White Label, Lacoste, Nike and Delia’s, as well as others sourced from Salvation Army and high-end boutiques in New York. In this collection I explore the relationship between fashion and time, and its preoccupation with the newest thing. What has just been presented as fashionable or “in fashion,” will the next season become “out of fashion.” What is newness? I explore this by combining garments from this season, last season, and a few years ago as part of my collection; just like an average wardrobe that consists of a range of garments from different origins and times.

11" X 17" (+1) 718 536 4678 elisavanjoolen@gmail.com www.elisavanjoolen.com


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What society means to me: In Dutch the word for ‘society’ is ‘samenleving’. Translated freely into English it means ‘together’ (samen) ‘living’ (leving), so ‘society’ means ‘living together’. It is this idea of co-existence that forms the essence of my thesis collection.

Garment (Spring 2012), acquired at store, Soho NYC

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Sample (SS 2012, produced 07/21/2011), donated, sent from Beaverton to Brooklyn 1/1 must Showroom Sample (date unknown, most likely SS 2012), donated, Midtown NYC Garment (date unknown, most likely SS 2011), acquired at a Warehouse sale, Chelsea NYC

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Archive Piece (SS 2003), donated, Chelsea NYC Garment (Spring 2012), acquired at high-end store, Soho NYC Garment (date unknown), acquired at Salvation Army, Brooklyn Additional Sample (Holiday 2012, produced 03/14/2012, vendor: South Asia), donated, Lower Midtown NYC

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

My thesis collection 11” X 17” is made in conversation with: Aina Beck Hussain Zowie Broach Yoonmee Chang Maria Chen Susan Cianciolo Maria Collins Simon Collins Benjamin Edeline Jonathan KYLE Farmer Shelley Fox Brenda Funk-Danielson Pascale Gatzen Neil Gilks Sherry Hawkins Emma Hoette Ruby Hoette Heike Jenss Brent Kawahara Simon Kneen Jennifer Kosiarek Howard Lichter Erickson Liongson Winni Lok Jennifer Maiorama Andrea Mazandi-Iseke Taylor Mikolasy Johanna Muszbek Bart-Jan Polman Sunanda Sachatrakul Jesi Small Anne Stooker Sarah Vanhee Anna Marina van Joolen-Marchesini Janhein van Joolen Sheilah van Sisseren Vincent Vulsma 11” X 17” is made possible through the generous financial support of Mondriaan Fonds, Fulbright, Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds, Koningin Sophia Fonds and Parsons The New School for Design 171


Persephone Persephone is the queen of the underworld in Greek mythology. She is the daughter of Demeter, the harvestgoddess and wife of Hades, the God of underworld. Persephone, also called as Kore (the girl, maiden) when she was under her mother’s supervision. She was kept away from the outside world in her mother’s secret garden. One day she gets kidnapped by Hades for her beauty and gets trapped in the underworld for eating six seeds of pomegranate that Hades offered her. Demeter cried in grief and sadness for her daughter’s abduction, plants on earth wilted and animals died of hunger. Zeus overlooks at this happening and orders Hades to return Persephone half of the year to her mother so the order will be kept; thus creating seasons on earth. The collection will show the transition from Kore, innocent, naïve girl, to Persephone, the queen of underworld, which was enforced upon her will. The play on life and death, good and bad, hatred and love will become the key to my collection. Experimentation on wire sculpture, embroidery and burning has been done. Fabrics will be used for covering the wire, or seamed into a garment mimicking the flower.

Persephone (+1) 646 784 4206 yamamoto.may@gmail.com


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What society means to me: Society is where you can get to learn about yourself from observing and studying each other’s behaviors.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

My family, Kuniko Yamamoto, Jonathan KYLE Farmer, Claudia Li Photographer: Yichen Zhou Photographer assistant: Kaily Hong Make-up: Gayle Carbajal

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Qianyan Zhao (WEN) Black on Black on black (+1) 347 379 5505 (NYC) (+86) 156 526 16535 (+86) 372 296 6291 blackonblackonblackonblack@hotmail.com weusnous@hotmail.com www.qianyanzhao.com


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MFA FASHION DESIGN AND SOCIETY

What society means to me: Society is made up of variety of people, Our civilization is updated by society. We are living in the society, The society is living in us. We control the development of society, We are controlled by the society as well, Society is as a mirror to reflecting our identity, Society is about a person, is about a things, is about a place‌ The society is as a referential noumenon, To know where we belong, To know ourselves worth, To know who we are.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

MFA Course Director Shelley Fox, Jonathan KYLE Farmer Benjamin Lee, Bruce Nussbaum. Photographer: Mariano Garcia, Model: Katerina Larkina

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House of lace and tulle since 1887 Sophie Hallette NY Grupo Textil : (212) 354 03 57 12 / cris@grupotextil.com 350 West 42nd Street - Suite 47A New York, NY 10036 www.sophiehallette.com

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FIRST eighteen



Donna Karan Estate of Richard Obus Estate of Stephen W. Mason The Diller-von Furstenberg Family Foundation The Fancy Tomio Taki LVMH MoĂŤt Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Inc. Project support for the MFA Fashion Design & Society Program is provided by: Coach

Reed Krakoff

fashion design & society




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