Palo Alto Weekly 03.05.2010 - Section 1

Page 32

Eating Out RESTAURANT REVIEW

Turn up the heat Sri Lankan dishes come alive at Spicy Leaves in Los Altos by Sheila Himmel been pining for since being introduced at a short-lived Sri Lankan restaurant in San Jose. They soak up sauce but retain their integrity. For now, that job is accomplished by rice and Spicy Leaves’ range of very good flatbreads, from plain naan ($2.25) to a sweet Peshawari naan ($3.95) stuffed with nuts and dried fruits, glazed in honey and butter. Ajwaiu paratha ($3.95) is made from wholewheat flour sprinkled with aromatic, caraway-like ajwaiu fruit. While perusing the menu, nibble on crisp, cone-shaped lentil wafers with very good tamarind and cilantro chutneys.

Michele Le

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In one of Spicy Leaves’ appetizers, aloo tikki, deep-fried potato patties are served with garbanzo beans.

DINNER BY THE MOVIES AT SHORELINE’S

Pizzeria Venti

or once, the name of a restaurant gives you a hint about what to expect. The Sri Lankan food at Los Altos’ Spicy Leaves, our one and only local Sri Lankan restaurant, is a little spicy. Frequently called “the teardrop of India� because of its geography and history, the island nation formerly named Ceylon has a lot going for its cuisine. Manager Haran Shaik and chef Rajesh Selvarathnam are gradually upping the Sri Lankan quotient of the menu at Spicy Leaves, which also features such local favorite Indian foods as butter chicken and lots of vegetarian dishes. Soon there will be string hoppers, the thin rice noodles I’ve

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The History Spaghetti alla Carbonara The origins of Spaghetti alla Carbonara are obscure but few dishes conjure up a more loyal following. The name is derived from the Italian word for charcoal where the dish was made popular as a meal for the charcoal makers. Still others going so far as to say it was named for a secret society the “Carbonariâ€? as tribute during Italy’s uniďŹ cation. Since the dish is unrecorded prior to 1927 it will forever be intertwined with the closing days of World War II. And while some historians attribute its creation TO HUNGRY !MERICAN SOLDIERS IN 2OME IT RARELY REACHES THE HEIGHTS IN THIS COUNTRY THAT IT DOES IN 2OME "EYOND ASSUMPTIONS IT IS MOST LIKELY AN OLD RECIPE PASSED DOWN FOR GENERATION TO GENERATION IN THE SHEPHERDING REGIONS SURROUNDING 2OME Carbonara is the pinnacle of perfection in pasta, surpassing even the more foundational Aglio e Olio (garlic and oil). In a good Carbonara, the creaminess comes not from cream, but from the perfect use of eggs against the residual heat of the spaghetti. Correctly done, spaghetti alla Carbonara is a textural and sensual study in classic cooking. Never MADE AHEAD OF TIME ONLY TO ORDER YOUR CULINARY JOURNEY TO 2OME DURING THE WAR YEARS begins here at Pizzeria Venti. From our kitchen to yours. Buon appetito! Chef Marco Salvi, Executive Chef

Spaghetti alla Carbonara s EGGS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE s CUP PECORINO 2OMANO 0ARMIGIANO 2EGGIANO OR A COMBINATION s TEASPOON FRESHLY ground black pepper

s OUNCES PANCETTA CUT ABOUT INCH THICK SLICES CUT INTO INCH LONG STRIPS s TABLESPOON SALT s POUND IMPORTED SPAGHETTI

To cook: In a small bowl, lightly beat the eggs. Add the cheese and black pepper and

1390 Pear Ave., Mountain View (650) 254-1120 www.mvpizzeriaventi.com

Page 32 • March 5, 2010 • Palo Alto Weekly

Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

set aside. In a medium skillet over low heat, cook the pancetta slowly, turning the pieces occasionally, for until they are cooked through and beginning to crisp. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the spaghetti. Cook, until the pasta is al dente. Save 1 cup hot pasta water. Drain the pasta, add back the hot pasta water and return it immediately to the skillet. Stir to combine pasta and pancetta. Stir in the egg and cheese mixture and toss well to coat the pasta thoroughly to distribute it evenly. Serve with a sprinkle of pecorino cheese.


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