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by Brooke Jackson
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Daily milk delivery was a necessity back in the pre-refrigeration days when the ‘white liquid gold’ would spoil within a day or so of milking.
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very Wednesday night we have to remember to put the milk bottles out on the porch. About 9 or 10pm we hear the loud â&#x20AC;&#x153;vroomâ&#x20AC;? of the milkmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s truck as it pulls in the driveway. With headlamp in place, he comes up on the porch and deposits a crate of full milk bottles, taking away the empties when he leaves. The glass bottles clink in a way that reminds me of my childhood. Back then, my family also had a front porch. It was like a little room, with a door that closed and glass windows on three sides. There was a built-in cabinet hanging on one wall with several compartments. The large compartment held all our mittens and hats for the cold winters in New Jersey and the small compartment was where the milkman put our milk twice a week. That milkman came at 4 in the morning. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know what kind of truck he drove but I know it was a truck of some sort because he ran over the wheel of my bike one time and bent it permanently. The milk had a cap of cream under the foil lid and my siblings and I would ďŹ ght for who would get the creamy portion on their cereal in the morning. For the most part, milkmen went the way of rotary phone and dinosaurs, descending into extinction. However, in my adult life Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve really needed a milkman. My family drinks lots of milk and we were always running out of it at the most inconvenient times. I found myself going to the store often during the week just to get milk and ending up with way more than that, thereby spending money unnecessarily.
Friends told me about the Marin Sonoma Milkman, aka Ron La Mariana. Affectionately called Mr. Moo, he delivers fresh milk (and many other goodies) to porches in Sonoma and Marin, bringing back a bit of bygone days. The milk is some of the best aroundâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Straus Family Creameryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s organic cow juice. Straus is recognized as the ďŹ rst organic dairy west of the Mississippi. The creamery has been in operation since 1941 but went organic in 1994. Many others followed suit, including Clover Stornetta, an operation that gathers both organic and conventional milk from several West Marin family dairy operations. Marin ranks 15th out of 43 California counties in milk production, both organic and conventional. There are approximately 27 dairies in Marin and, though this hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t been a good year proďŹ tability-wise for local creameries, their heritage is long and strong. Now that I have a more consistent, fresh and wholesome milk supply, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been playing around with some recipes. The pork dish is based on the classic preparation from Bologna. The loin is a tricky cut to cook because it can easily become dry, but braising it in milk renders the meat succulent and tender. The milkshake is a great way to showcase the fresh strawberries that are popping up in markets right now. We are so lucky to have organic milk produced by family farms right here in Marin, and have our own milkman named Mr. Moo to bring it home. --------------------------------------------
Pork Loin Braised in Milk Yields 4-6 servings 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds boneless pork loin, tied, with some fat on the outside 3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed with the side of a knife 1 large sprig fresh sage or at least 3 leaves 2-3/4 cups fresh, organic milk (see note) Salt and pepper
Season the pork loin with salt and pepper. Heat olive oil over medium high in a small Dutch ovenâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;with a lidâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;that is just large enough to hold the pork. Add pork and brown well on all sides, about 5-7 minutes. Add sage and garlic and saute brieďŹ&#x201A;y until fragrant. Add milk, stirring to dislodge any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Bring to a boil, and then turn heat to low. Taste and season the milk mixture with salt and freshly ground pepper. Set the lid on the pot so that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slightly ajar and allow pork to cook slowly, about 1 hour, basting and turning the roast frequently, until the internal temper-