A hoisin in the sun Nothing says ‘summer’ like spring rolls... by Br o o ke Jac k son
“M
mmm...the flavors of summer.” That’s what I think whenever I take a bite of a Vietnamese spring roll. Also known as summer rolls and salad rolls, these handheld packages are bursting with flavors and textures from fresh herbs, crunchy lettuce, rice vermicelli and, traditionally, shrimp. But the beauty of Vietnamese spring rolls is that the fillings can be shaped and designed to whatever strikes your fancy (or is in your fridge!). Think juicy pieces of grilled rare steak paired with basil and mint, halved prawns and papaya, seared ahi alongside ripe avocado or lemongrass tofu and crisp bell pepper. Pile in crispy cukes, bean sprouts, julienned carrot and leaves of tender lettuce and the roll becomes a little meal. The brighter the contrasts in flavors and textures, the better the rolls turn out. Spring rolls are always served with dipping sauces that can run the gamut from the traditional Nuoc Cham to spicy peanut sauce to hybrid dips made from hoisin, almond butter or even apricot preserves mixed with sweet chili sauce. What complements the taste of the rolls best are the cornerstones of Vietnamese cooking: salty, sour, sweet and spicy with a little umami (the “je ne sais quoi” of flavors, a savoriness imparted by protein-heavy foods). Nuoc Cham is generally a combination of fish sauce with an acid such as rice vinegar and/or lime juice, sugar, some spicy chilies and garlic. This is the traditional accompaniment but it’s fun to try different sauces to tingle the tongue and add to the flavor explosion. There are a few key ingredients that may require a trek to an Asian market. The rice papers come in 8-1/2-inch rounds, which are the best to use when you first start out rolling. There are also 6-1/2-inch rounds that are a great size for finger food appetizers but may be harder to roll until you have some experience under your belt. Look for fish sauce that is the color of tea, not the darker varieties. I like the Mae Ploy brand of sweet chili sauce and Huy Fong’s sambal oelek (fresh chili paste). Vermicelli or bean thread noodles can be found at some regular grocery stores. The Asian Market in San Rafael, near Whole Foods, is well stocked or you may want to do a field trip to Ranch 99 in Richmond where you can find almost every Asian ingredient under the sun. Rolling the spring rolls takes a little practice. I remember working in catering and my manager had the cooks make some of these for a party. None of us had worked with the rice papers before and initially they turned to gelatinous goo because we soaked them too long. Once we mastered the correct soaking
20 PACIFIC SUN MAY 28 – JUNE 3, 2010
lettuce leaf and continue with the rest of the rolls. You can cut these in half if they are appetizers or even assemble everything and allow guests to make their own combinations and do their own rolling. Combination suggestions: 1. Butter lettuce leaves, thin papaya slices, julienned cucumber and carrot, leaves of mint, basil and cilantro, bean sprouts, vermicelli and large shrimp halved lengthwise. 2. Baby spinach, steamed asparagus spear, rare teriyaki steak, julienned cucumber and carrot, vermicelli, basil and cilantro leaves. 3. Butter lettuce leaves, avocado slices, julienned cucumber and carrot, vermicelli, seared ahi, mint and basil leaves. 4. Red leaf lettuce, firm tofu marinated in lemongrass, garlic, tamari sauce, sugar and lime juice then sauteed, julienned red bell pepper, cucumber and carrot, vermicelli, mint and cilantro leaves. -------------------------
STEP 2
STEP 3
Spicy Peanut Sauce: It is believed spring rolls first appeared in Asia during China’s Jin dynasty—around the year 300.
time though, rolling them tight enough was quite tricky. The crew never really got the hang of it; we turned out some very loosely rolled packages that evening, most of which slopped down the front of the guests once they took their first bite. With some clear instructions, though, you’ll be rolling like a pro in no time. As soon as you have all the ingredients together and are ready to roll, it’s easy and oh so satisfying. When that first bite hits your taste buds, they will be singing about the flavors of summer, imparted from a little package of flavor perfection. Follow these steps for perfect rolls: 1. Assemble all your ingredients beforehand. 2. Fill a pie plate with 1 inch of warm water. Dip a rice paper in the water to cover for about 2 seconds. You want it to soften slightly but still be somewhat stiff. It’s a common mistake to soak the paper too long so that it’s soggy or floppy. Be aware that the paper will continue to absorb moisture and get more pliable as you pile on your ingredients, so just dip it in and out of the water. 3. Lay on a clean dry surface—a dinner plate works well. Use a small amount of each ingredient, putting any of the sharper things in the middle of the pile—like the bean sprouts—so they won’t poke through and make a hole in the paper. I layer a small lettuce leaf, cukes, carrots, bean sprouts, vermicelli then a shrimp, pressing down to compact the parts into a neat pile. Position the pile near the lower third of the rice paper. 4. Fold the bottom of the paper over the filling then fold in both sides. Start to roll the pile up toward the top of the plate, tucking the filling in on the first turn to get a tighter roll. 5. Continue rolling until all the rice paper is used up, then roll back and forth once just to compress and tighten the roll. 6. Cover with a damp paper towel or
1 teaspoon each finely minced garlic and ginger 3 tablespoons smooth peanut butter, heated slightly 1 tablespoon sweet chili sauce 1 tablespoon tamari sauce 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper (or to taste) 2 or 3 tablespoons hot water
STEP 4
Mix all ingredients together, adding enough water to make a saucy consistency.
Nuoc Cham 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons warm water 2 tablespoons each of lime juice, fish sauce and rice vinegar 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1/4 teaspoon chili garlic paste (sambal oelek)
STEP 5
Dissolve the sugar in the warm water. Whisk in the remaining ingredients until combined. Taste and adjust to your liking. ✹ Roll with Brooke at brooke.d.jackson@gmail.com.
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