Cover: 23th LisbonFashionWeek, Collection “Fish in the Water”, 2004. Photograph by Rui vasco
Lidija Kolovrat
Lidia KOLOVRAT [b. 1962] Lidija was born in Bosnia in 1962. She initially studied cinema directing before switching to a fashion design course at the Textile and Fashion Design Institute in Zagreb. She came to Portugal in 1990 and has been much in demand in the worlds of fashion and the scenic arts ever since. She has her own shop: ‘Peter and the Wolf’. She has taken part in many exhibitions, such as ‘Portuguese Fashion – The Revelation’, in Paris and ‘Spoon Fed Concept’ in Lisbon. She has also been involved with the dance scene and her projects include Olga Roriz’s “Stop and Start Again” for the D. Maria II theatre and “Archangels, Cherubins and Seraphins” at Lisbon’s Belém Cultural Centre. In 2001 she showed her Spring – Summer collection at both the Estufa Fria and ISTINIZAM, a catwalk show and video installation at the Luís Serpa Gallery in Lisbon. Lidija took part in ModaLisboa/Lab in 2002 and in that year also designed the costumes for the cast of the musical “Angelica” which was part of the International Music Festival at Bologna, Italy. She had two shows following this: “I Don’t Die, I Oxidise (Feature Factory)”, OVO/Eggzistenze (360º Gallery, Milan); and “2 MENFACE (Lisbon)”. She took part in the group show “Sketch an Idea – The Pencil” at Lisbon’s Natural History Museum in March 2003. In July she held a video installation, ISTINIZAM, in Oporto. This show will be revived as part of ExperimentaDesign in Lisbon in 2003.
In 2004, Lidija showed her video performance / instalation piece at Lisbon’s Lux Fragil, as part of the 2nd W.A.Y – eroticism– Jangada Festival, as well as the video art installation, “Hair cut”, in Luis Serpa Gallery (Lisbon), Maus Habitos Gallery (Porto) and BAC ( Barcelona). She also took part in the collective exhibition “Meeting Point, Arco 20 years”, promoted by Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation. In 2005 and 2006, Lidija designed costumes for several plays. She showed the installation “Sedevita” at the first edition of Lisbon’s CIRCUIT, and the “Cavalo e Lua” video piece at Lisbon’s Gulbenkian. In 2007 she presented the installations “Glam Hotel” and “Mud/eira” in Kolovrat Concept Store and “Camouflage” in Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian. She produced the editorial “passarelle” for Egoista Magazine and launched a new line of women handbags, “In Vento”. In 2008, presents the live-cut performance “Erro ou Descoberta”, in Fabrico Infinito, and participates at the radio program “Esplendor”. In 2007 and 2008, Lidija presented many exhibitions at Kolovrat Concept Store and participated in several national and international exhibitions, including in the design show “Flexibility”, in Turin. She launched a new line of ladies bags, called “IN VENTO”, which exposed, in October 2008, at the “Making Things” gallery, in Madrid. She also participated in the workshops “Geometry and patterns”, at the IED-Instituto Europeu di Design (Madrid), and“The Walking Creativity” (Palma de Mallorca), as well as in the colloquium “Studio Banana”, in Madrid.
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1 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT Leather jacket and
staples (green version). The use of staples suggests aggression. Shown at the 28th Edition LisboaFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Hunter” 2007. Estimate €150-300
2 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Leather jacket and staples (bordeaux version). The use of staples suggests aggression. Shown at the 28th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Hunter” 2007. Estimate €150-300
3 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Hand painted skirt in tones of “chocolate” with an overlapped vintage waistcoat. Shown on the 19th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Rich and Kind” 2002. Estimate €250-350
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Printed leather jacket with drawings of beetles. Shown at the 31th Edition LisbonFashionWeek-Estoril , Summer Collection “Heartcore” 2009. Estimate €250-500
4 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
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5 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Black silk acetate and elastane dress with a silk-lamé fitting, 2009. Estimate €120-240
6 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Woollen asymmetric jacket (amplified on the right side), doublesided. Shown at the 24th LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Sveti Razum - Holy Brain”, 2005. Estimate €150-300
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7 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Printed leather waistcoat (cornucopias) with printed velvet back. Shown at the 28th LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Hunter”, 2007. Estimate €120-200
8 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Woollen jacket with mirrored fabric lining and polyester knit. Shown at the 24th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Sveti Razum - Holy Brain” 2005. Estimate €150-300
9 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT 300
Cotton waterproof asymmetric jacket, 2005. Estimate €150-
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10 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Leather shoes (commercial) with intervention. Shown at the 18th LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Action/Reaction”, 2002. Estimate €60-120
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LIDIJA KOLOVRAT Leather shoes (commercial) with polyester hair lock (intervention). Shown on the 18th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Action/Reaction” 2002. Estimate €60-120
12 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
‘Pedra’ edition bag”Pedra” edition bag made of technologic fabric with side leather finishes, 2009. Estimate €80-160
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13 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
‘Pedra’ edition bag made of technologic fabric engraved with tapestry motif. Shown at the 32nd LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Zerotoeight”, 2009. Estimate €100-200
14 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
‘Pedra’ edition bag made of perforated leather. Shown at the 32nd LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Zerotoeight”, 2009. Estimate €150300
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15 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Printed leather bag suggesting grass. Shown at the 20th Edition LisbonFashionWeek |Estoril, Winter Collection ‘Heartcore’ 2009. Estimate €150-300
16 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Printed leather bag suggesting grass. Shown at the 20th Edition LisbonFashionWeek |Estoril, Winter Collection ‘Heartcore’ 2009. Estimate €80-160
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17 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Laser-cut “Miragem” acrylic brooch. Shown at the 28th LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Sun Sand Salt”, 2007. Estimate €2040
18 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Stylized hunter cape made of waterproof technologic fabric. Shown at the 28th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Hunter” 2007. Estimate €200-400
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19 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Stylized hunter cape made of cotton with rubber print. Shown at the 28th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Hunter” 2007. Estimate €200-400
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20 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Woollen jacket/coat with quilted lining printed with drawings of roosters. Shown at the 26th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Chocolate Lime on Time” 2006. Estimate €300-600
21 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Wild silk jacket with beaded floral ornaments. Haute-Couture silk with post-war military design. Shown at the 27th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/ Summer Collection “Accident” 2006. Estimate €250-500
22 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT €150-300
Hand painted leather jacket (intervention), 2008. Estimate
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LIDIJA KOLOVRAT ‘Technonature’ Collection jacket decorated with zippers in the seams. Shown at the 30th LisboaFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Techno-Nature”, 2008. Estimate €150300
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24 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Wild silk jacket with beaded floral ornaments. Shown at the 27th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Accident” 2006. Estimate €150-300
25 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
‘Glam Hotel’ Collection silk jacket embroidered with beads and Gaudi-inspired paintings. Made for the cover of Up magazine, 2008. Estimate €300600
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26 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Video jacket with fabric collage and print. Shown at the Vídeo & show “Istinizam”, at the Galeria Luis Serpa Projectos, Lisbon 2001. Estimate €150300
27 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Wool and felt jacket with overlapping lace and latex. Shown at the 18th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Action/Reaction” 2002. Estimate €120-240
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28 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Coat made of woollen felt/knit, lace and latex. Finishing touches were given directly on the body and the coat was cut after the latex was addedon. Vintage buttons from Florence (decorative) and magnet buttons. Shown at the 18th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Action/Reaction” 2002. Estimate €150-300
29 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Woollen coat with metallic rings. Shown at the 26th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Chocolate Lime on Time” 2006. Estimate €125-250
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32 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Felt jacket with silk lining (Kabuki influence). Shown at the 18th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/ Winter Collection “Action/Reaction” 2002. Estimate €125-250
30 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Cotton jacket inspired in an original play from the early 20th century. Shown at the 20th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Red” 2003. Estimate €125-250
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31 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
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Woollen blazer with conflicting details (collar glued to the jacket, a jewel on the pocket). Shown at the 20th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/ Winter Collection “Red” 2003. Estimate €125-250
LIDIJA KOLOVRAT Leather scarf. Shown at the 30th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Techno-Nature” 2008. Estimate €100200 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT Leather bag made from a jacket. Shown at the 30th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/ Winter Collection “Techno-Nature” 2008. Estimate €100-200
Miguel Matos is the founder and director of Umbigo magazine and editor of Time Out Lisboa’s art section. As a journalist he underlines his collaboration with magazines such as Vogue Portugal, Maxima, Icon and City. He has recently dedicated himself to curatorial projects in the field of contemporary arts and he writes texts for visual arts exhibitions.
Kolovrat: between chaos, order and entropy by Miguel Matos “I have found out that: that which relates to the body necessarily relates to the space”, says Lidija Kolovrat, the Bosnia born creator that, since 1990, has chosen Portugal as her emotional territory. Throughout his artistic research, Lucio Fontana thought about clothing as a natural extension and evolution of his work popping out of the canvas he had already quartered in a quest for new areas of visual intervention. According to Germano Celant, the curator of the 1996 Florence Biennale dedicated to the subject of fashion and entitled Looking at Fashion, Fontana was searching for “the boundary between the inner and the outer, between fabric and skin, between clothing and nudity”. Lidija Kolovrat’s work may well be placed within this particular artistic tradition. The artist cuts, tears, glues, burns, joins and separates, recycles and abandons. With this paradoxical movement, Lidija Kolovrat creates her work from controlled chaos. Everything is the result of spontaneity and yet nothing is left to chance. The apparent improvisation is always pondered, calculated. She holds back from experimenting until after the foundations of her work are launched. The search for materials’ volumes and twists, as well as for thread and colour distortions, are strategies in a quest, in a pursuit of mutable and mutant means of plastic expression. The body appears as the foundation of a piece; it is not the piece that serves the body. Clothes (and we are speaking of clothing as the nomenclature of a certain object that may be autonomous, i.e. the object per se) do not commend the body, they do not serve the body; instead, they convey ideas, messages, concerns. Just as the anti-drawing that in the end resorted to amorphous objects, which by this very quality would become defined and emerge from the paper and the materials, Kolovrat creates pieces of clothing that may be considered anti-clothes (?) as they seem to shift away from the three-dimensional trait that traditionally characterizes a cloth intended for the body. These pieces are like canvases that can be worn, or like skirts that can be hung. They are like silk-screen fabrics, painted and
carved directly with no apparent regard for the body, but ultimately taking it into consideration. In extreme cases, a piece no longer applies to the body to represent it or to symbolize it; the absence of the body conveys autonomy to the piece. Dresses are united by two arms like a ring of bodies in a performance. All this experimentalism seizes materials and processes that are characteristic of fashion, and it is fashion; however, it uses the language of the arts creating a hybrid product with a disturbing, provocative and sometimes random result. These elements originating from a philosophical or social world are subsequently chewed and turned down to give way to clothing – Clothing as medium and not as a purpose. She endeavours to express and to rethink a way of life, to highlight freedom, to bring art closer to everyday life in the same way artists devise the work of art as a whole. Revisiting the context of futuristic art and its relation with fashion, and rejecting the constraints of visual arts, author Florence Müller alludes to Marinetti and Giacomo Balla’s aesthetics of the ephemeral whose fabric was the materialization of “elements of synthesis studied in painting, such as the speed-line, the noise forms and the chromatic rhythms”. Along the same lines that guided the futurists, Lidija Kolovrat repositions the individual in the social and urban scene, highlighting social phenomena and triggering an inquiry on where we stand before the physical world and the world of ideas, and on political and ideological constraints. We cannot consider a unifying concept of her work but rather a leitmotiv that, reacting against fleeting and mundane fashion, remains true to the recreational use of these pieces, thus accentuating the uniqueness of those who wear it, instead of mirroring the trends of a particular time. In one of her most successful collections, the artist sets fire to a red skirt and in doing so she practically burns her entire studio. In another experience, a friend is persuaded to put on a coat that is subsequently wrapped in latex immobilizing him for hours. In the end it takes a pair of scissors to set him free, and the cuts ultimately redefine the openings of the coat revealing its final shape and look – was this the final act of a performance? A worn out jacket acquires an extra semantic layer once a drawing is made on it with lit cigarette ends. Leather jackets rendered obsolete by the change in trends along a 20-year period acquire new volumes by means of subverting the normal use. This is Lidija Kolovrat’s method: to take the rules, the standard things, to rethink them and to present them in the light of her ecologic, social and political concerns. Lidija is currently changing her creative disposition. She is leaving behind her already historic Pedro e o Lobo studio/gallery where she also keeps her KolovratLab and she is progressively moving away from the scene of Moda Lisboa [Lisbon Fashion Week], the venue where her collections are shown to the general public and to the press. From now on her devoted clients will be invited to a new pod. The studio will be situated in her own home and the collections will be shown in galleries and other less conventional venues taking the indistinctness and multidisciplinarity of her pieces even further. This auction works as an update, a historic glance, a retrospective reflection on twenty years of the work of Lidija Kolovrat.
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35 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Cotton skirt set on fire (to summon the element Fire). Key element of the “Red” Collection. Shown at the 20th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/ Winter Collection “Red” 2003. Estimate €150-300
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36 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Dress – ‘Muslin draping’ – with combined leather element. Shown at the 19th LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Rich n’ kind”, 2002. Estimate €200-400
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37 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Woollen dress, glass pearls. Pochette attached to the dress. Shown at the 22nd Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Derelict de Luxe” 2004. Estimate €150-300
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38 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Haute couture tulle with beads sewn onto in a floral motif. Shown at the 18th LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “”, 2002. Estimate €150300
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39 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Satin dress with red ribbon “Dressed to kill”. Shown at the 25th LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Desire”, 2005. Estimate €150-300
40 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Skin tone crystal knit draping dress with knit elements (stripes). Shown at the 19th LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Rich n’ kind”, 2002. Estimate €150-300
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41 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Technologic waterproof cotton “hunter” raincoat. Shown at the 28th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Hunter” 2007. Estimate €300-600
42 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Cotton and denim cape (double-sided) inspired in a desert tent. Shown at the 29th Edition, LisbonFashionWeek Spring/Summer Collection “Sun Sand Salt” 2007. Estimate €300-600
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43 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
T-shirt/bag made of technologic fabric. Shown on the 18th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Action/Reaction” 2002. Estimate €100-200
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LIDIJA KOLOVRAT Leather T-shirt/bag. Shown on the 18th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Action/Reaction” 2002. Estimate €100200
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45 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Informal/formal cotton shirt. Shown at the 27th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Accident” 2006. Estimate €75-150
46 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Desert-inspired cotton shirt. Shown at the 27th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Accident” 2006. Estimate €150-300
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47 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Crochet dress with draped gusset purchased at a secondhand market in Harare, Zimbabwe. Worked on as a parcel. Shown at the 19th Edition LisboaFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Rich and Kind” 2002. Estimate €150-300
48 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Muslin dress with overlapping elements. Shown at the 19th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/ Summer Collection “Rich and Kind” 2002. Estimate €150-300
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49 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
‘Umbilical wedding dress’ produced for the In-Between exhibition, Galeria Luis Serpa Projectos, Lisbon 1997.Estimate €100-200
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50 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Felt and wool blouse with overlapping lace and beads. Painted with latex. Shown on the 18th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Action/Reaction” 2002. Estimate €100-200
1 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Customize shirt with draped muslin. Shown on the 19th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/ Summer Collection “Rich and Kind” 2002. Estimate €100-200
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52 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Technologic knit jacket with hand intervention by the artist (dripping ink), 2008. Estimate €150-300
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53 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Woollen coat with cotton sleeves and print finish. Shown at the 26th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Chocolate Lime on Time” 2006. Estimate €150-300
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LIDIJA KOLOVRAT Wool and patchwork jacket, embroidered in Italy (Indian made fabric). Reversible model inspired in Burberrys classic jackets. Shown at the 26th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Chocolate Lime on Time” 2006. Estimate €200-400
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LIDIJA KOLOVRAT Engraved leather pilot hat with wool lining, 2007. Estimate €40-80
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56 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Felt/wool knit t-shirt with sleeve waistcoat as accessory. Shown at the 30th LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Techno-Nature”, 2008. Estimate €80-160
57 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Leather jacket customized with white spray. Shown at the 27th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/ Summer Collection “Accident” 2006. Estimate €150-300
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58 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Leather pants with creases. Shown at the 30th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Techno-Nature” 2008. Estimate €150-300
59 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Linen viscose pants with metallic chain used as a belt. Shown at the 25th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Spring/Summer Collection “Desire” 2005. Estimate €80-160
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60 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT 61 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Technologic metallic fabric pants, 2002. Estimate €80-160
Bias cut (100% wool) pants printed with wallpaper ornaments. Shown at the 26th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Chocolate Lime on Time” 2006. Estimate €80-160
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62 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Technologic fabric pants, 2008. Estimate €80-160
63 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Cotton knit pants. Shown at the 20th LisboaFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Red”, 2003. Estimate €80-160
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LIDIJA KOLOVRAT Haute-couture cotton and satin pants. Compromise between riding pants and elegance. Printed on the sides. Shown at the 20th Edition LisbonFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Red” 2003. Estimate €80-160
65 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
“Sitting Shape” cotton knit pants. Shown at the 20th LisboaFashionWeek, Fall/Winter Collection “Red”, 2003. Estimate €80-160
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66 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
‘Feminine Box’ – Wood, rubber fabric, silk and canvas (2 elements). 152 x 198 x 9 cm. Shown at the Spoon Fed Concept exhibition at Galeria Luis Serpa Projectos, Lisbon, 2000. Estimate €450-900
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67 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
‘Separate Dreams I’ – Wood, fabric and canvas. 172 x 131,5 x 3 cm. Shown at the Spoon Fed Concept exhibition at Galeria Luis Serpa Projectos, Lisbon, 2000. Estimate €400-800
69 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
Separate Dreams II – Wood, fabric and canvas. 176 x 135,5 x 12 cm. Shown at the Spoon Fed Concept exhibition at Galeria Luis Serpa Projectos, Lisbon, 2000. Estimate €400-800
68 LIDIJA KOLOVRAT
‘Yellow Gone’ – Wood, crystal knit and canvas. 134 x 133,5 x 17 cm. Shown at the Spoon Fed Concept exhibition at Galeria Luis Serpa Projectos, Lisbon, 2000. Estimate €400-800
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Auction 23 July 2009 | Thursday | 8:00 pm. Kolovrat Concept Store - Rua do Salitre 169 Lisbon
Viewing Lots on sale will be on display at Kolovrat Concept Store, on: * Wednesday, July 22 *Thursday, July 23 | Opening Hours: 3:00 pm - 7:00 pm.
Auction board Luís Trindade Bernardo Trindade Auctioneer Luís Trindade Texts Lidia Kolovrat Luís Trindade Translation Paula Tavares dos Santos Photography Jorge Nabais (studio & parade) ModaLisboa Photographers (parade) Carlos Encarnação (digital treatment) Auction team Carlos Encarnação Isabel Lopes Joana Lia Ferreira Rita Góis Sofia Trindade Graphic designer Luís Trindade Web development Carlos Cabral
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