DESERT EXPOSURE
OCTOBER 2018 • 19
El Chihuahua
El Zapata
SOUTH OF THE BORDER • MORGAN SMITH
The Two Faces of Juárez The still fight bulls, don’t they?
I
t was a boiling hot Friday, Aug. 17, as we crossed the bridge into Juárez and waded into a din of people on the Avenida Benito Juárez. By chance we saw two friends, Father Peter Hinde and Sister Betty Campbell who have had a ministry in Juárez for many years. They were the only Anglos we saw during the whole visit. A cheerful, toothless taxi driver took us on a circuitous route to the Plaza de Toros Alberto Balderas and told us how calm the city is. This was one face of Juárez. The other face is a report from Molly Molloy of New Mexico State University who publishes the Frontera List, indicating that there have been 73 homicides in Juárez in the first 13 days of August or about six per day, figures that approach those of the worst times in 2010 to 2013. This appears to be the result of a cartel war between the Artistas Asesinos and the Mexicles with other groups like Barrio Azteca and La Linea also involved. I’ve heard talk of the possibility of a “cartel war” in Palomos but fortunately nothing has happened. Thinking about this Friday morning before we left Santa Fe, I almost canceled the trip. Juárez faces other pressures as well. The uncertainty over mayoral elections between Javier Gonzalez Mocken, the Morena candidate, and the incumbent, Armado Carbada. Pressure from newly elected president Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO) to focus on the poor and increase the miserably low minimum wage. A worker in Santa Fe earns as much in a half hour as a worker in Juárez can earn in a day. The high expectations resulting from the election of someone so much an outsider. There are concerns over the NAFTA negotiations. None of this was evident, however. Arriving too early for the 8 p.m. bullfight, we had dinner at the nearby restaurant, La Villa del Mar. Our waiter, Alfonso said he was 100 percent for AMLO
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El Conde
and that the city was “tranquilo.” Crowds began lining up at the ticket office at around 6:30 p.m. Tickets were expensive – more than $50 each to sit on the shady side. The bullfighters included Alfredo Rios, “El Conde,” age 44, wearing black socks which I have never seen before. He retired several years ago and is making a comeback which is a mistake. He was unable to control either of his bulls, looked completely lost and was lucky to not get hurt. Watching his struggles makes you realize how enormous and dangerous these bulls are. Uriel Moreno, “El Zapata,” also 44, had much better luck, and was awarded two ears with his first bull and should have received an ear with the second one. His habit of twirling around with odd, exaggerated gestures detracted from an otherwise fine performance. The handsome, athletic Antonio Garcia, “El Chihuahua,” age 33, and from the city of Chihuahua was the star just as he had been when I saw him in Juárez several years ago. Then he came to the early afternoon “sorteo” when it’s decided which matador will get which bulls. The matadors almost never do this, but he wanted his fans to have a chance to chat and to pose with him for photos. On this Friday night he earned three ears and a tail, and the very raucous crowd loved it. He also put on a daring display of placing the banderillas and ran
backwards with the bull chasing him. The bull got so close that Chihuahua could put his hand on the bull’s forehead. Then he rested his forehead on the bull’s forehead while running backwards. The plaza was about 80 percent full despite the high prices and the spectators were quick to applaud and equally quick to boo. With the noise of passing trains outside the plaza added to the crowd noise, it was deafening. Dozens of men circulated with beer, snacks and drinks; whoever owns the alcohol concession made a fortune. Afterward we all poured into the night and headed back up the Avenida Benito Juárez to the bridge. You could never tell from the crowds on the street, the mariachis, the vendors and the full bars that there was a wave of violence in Juárez. We thought of trying to escape the heat by stopping in the historic Kentucky Club where some claim that the margarita was invented but there was a huge line. Juárez has its struggles but you couldn’t tell it that Friday night. It’s a city with two faces and fortunately we only saw the bright one. Morgan Smith travels from Santa Fe to the Juárez area at least once a month to document conditions there and to assist several humanitarian groups. He can be reached at Morgan-smith@ comcast.net.
DEMING ART CENTER 100 South Gold, Deming, NM Mon thru Sat 10:00 am to 4:00 pm
October Exhibit: Black Range Artists Reception: October 7, 2018 - 1:00 pm to 3:00 pm Exhibit dates: October 2, 2018 through October 24, 2018 Beading Class: Monday, October 1, 2018 - 10:00 am to 12:00 pm $10, includes instructions, beads, needle ARTOBER FEST: SATURDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2018 9:00 am to 4:00 pm at the Custom House yard and garden, across the street from the Deming Luna Museum, 301 South Silver, Deming, NM GUATEMALAN MERCADO: October 26, 2018 11:00 am to 4:00 pm October 27, 2018 9:00 am to 4:00 pm Jewelry, purses, bags, clothing and many other items from Guatemala. Great items for gifting! Help support the Deming Arts Center during this fundraising event.
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This project is supported in part by New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs
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