unsized couture
OUR TEAM PROGRAMMABLE APPAREL
NOUMENA
RESHAPE
FAB LAB NETWORK
MADE IN A FABLAB
design. research. education
digital craft community
digital fabrication
global-local production
COMPUTATIONAL THINKING
COMMUNITY OF EDUCATION
RAPID PROTOTYPING
MARKET E-COMMERcE PLATFORM
PEOPLE NOUMENA - RESHAPE
ALDO SOLLAZZO
CHIRAG RANGHOLIA
EFILENA BASETA
STARSKY LARA
ECE TANKAL
COMPUTATIONAL DESIGN
electronics
MATERIAL SYSTEM SIMULATION
PROGRAMMING
DESIGNER
Aldo is the founder of Noumena as well as the director and creator of “Reshape” online platform. He is an expert of computational design and digital fabrication which he teaches and explore in his own practice and in Fab Academy course.
Chirag is partner of Noumena and tutor of Fab Academy in Fab Lab Frosinone with expertise in electronics and digital fabrication. Chirag is responsible for the electronics of N-E-RO (Networking Environmental Robotics) research project.
Efilena is a partner of Noumena and author of “Translated Geometries” project. She is an expert in computational design and her current interest lies in simulating responsive material systems.
Starsky is an external collaborator of Noumena and expert in programming and 3d printing. He has a Master in Advanced Architecture from IAAC in the direction of “Digital Tectonics”.
Ece is an external collaborator of Noumena and Hyphen-Labs. She was part of the research team of “Translated Geometries” project and she spacializes in design and digital fabrication.
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE NOUMENA
PARTNERS
INSTITUTIONS
EDUCATION
PROCESS // FROM EDUCATION TO RESEARCH We are active in education, organizing and tutoring a number of workshops, concerning computation and advanced technologies, always in collaboration with recognized institutions such as the Institute for Advanced Architecture of Catalonia, the Polytechnic University of Milan, the Sapienza University of Rome, the Ecole Nationale Supérieure d’Architecture Paris-Malaquais and the Parsons School for Design in New York. The aquired knowledge is the springboard for our research lines.
RESEARCH
DESIGN EDUCATION RESEARCH
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE RESHAPE / DIGITAL CRAFT COMMUNITY
RESHAPE // DIGITAL CRAFT COMMUNITY RESHAPE is a community of designers and makers all around the world, which merges in a unique online platform experts from many different fields, creating a highly selected network of knowledge and production. Until now, Reshape has created a big worldwide network which consists of 187 designers, 43 countries and 41 fab labs. It promotes research and education of digital ideas, always focused on innovative processes of design and fabrication towards the reformulation of a new market that relies on knowledge economy.
COMMUNITY: 187 DESIGNERS 43 COUNTRIES 41 FAB LABS
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE COMPETITION / WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY
RESHAPE 15 // WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY COMPETITION RESHAPE 15 is a wearable technology competition where makers and designers merge their ideas with fabrication processes and market viabilities. Reshape started the wearable competition one year ago and since then has collected 70 applications from 23 diffrent countries. Its manifesto is to focus on one specific research line and further develop it.
INNOVATION IN WEARABLE TECHNOLOGIES
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE COMPETITION / WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY / 1ST PRIZE
RESHAPE 15 // SPONGESUIT SpongeSuit is an environmentally conscious swimming gear designed with a cutting edge clean technology called “Sponge” (super-hydrophobic carbon based material), which absorbes everything but water. SpongeSuit aims to transform the swimming experience into an eco-friendly activity, by helping clean seas while swimming.
intelligently manufactured: 3D printing clean-tech material
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE WORKSHOP / PAVILION OF INNOVATION 2015 (CONSTRUMAT)
COMPUTATIONAL COUTURE // NOUMENA, CO-DE-IT, IAAC “COMPUTATIONAL COUTURE | Expanding the the horizons of dress making towards an algorithmic approach” is a 5 days workshop that was part of the educational program of the “Pavilion of Innovation 2015” in Beyond Building Barcelona, curated by IAAC and Fab Lab Barcelona. Aim of the workshop is to exert, infuse and expand the sartorial sensibilities to body proportions and dress making into an algorithmic approach that loops through design and fabrication by means of laser cutting and 3d printing for the design and production of a garment.
EXPAND: sartorial sensibilities to body proportions
PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE RESEARCH PROJECT / SMART MATERIALS
TRANSLATED GEOMETRIES // EFILENA BASETA - ECE TANKAL - RAMIN SHAMBAYATI (IAAC) TRANSLATED GEOMETRIES is a structural system that reacts to certain stimuli and changes its configuration within a given space. Transformation parameters are based on the behavior and/or activities of users in order to reshape our spatial boundaries. A deep research into phase-changing materials culminated in our discovery of Shape Memory Polymer. The material was put through thorough testing in our search for the optimal system for the main goal of being able to heat it, deform it, and upon cooling, hold the new desired form.
RESPONSIVE TO: HEAT
SIZED CULTURE
FASHION // FOLLOWING THE FASHION
IDE RE AL AL
In ancient world artists and scientists, like Polykleitos and Vitruvius, tried to find the ideal proportions of human body writing thorough treatises about it. In 16th century Albrecht Dürer, in “Four Books on Human Proportion”, exhaustively examines variations of human form. Art starts to recognize and depict the differences in human bodies. However clothing remains constrained to one type, designed for the ideal human figure.
SIZES 2
// STANDARDIZATION OF SIZES 37,5 39,5 41 43,5
Before the invention of clothing sizes in the early 1800s, all clothing was made to fit individuals by either tailors or makers of clothing in homes. Then garment makers noticed that the range of human body dimensions was relatively small. Therefore sizes were invented to allow mass production of garments.
3 4
1
9
4
102 110
94
119
7
However, in 2014 ModCloth surveyed more than 1,500 women to determine how they feel about the current state of the plus-size market:
5
5
75,5
84
92 98
77% “It is difficult to find well-fitting garments”
6
100 108
6
116
125
S m l XL
(cm)
8
46% “I never or rarely find flattering clothing” 49% “I often need tailoring to get the right fit”
bust
M&S
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DESCRIPTION
S
M
L
XL
height necklow (meck width) shoulder width chest - bust waist width hips width arm width sleeve from center neck back lenght behind
168 37,5 37 94 75,5 100 29,5 60,5 46,5
168 39,5 39 102 84 108 31,5 61 48,5
168 41 41 110 92 116 34 61 50
168 43,5 42,5 119 98 125 37 62 51,5
ZARA
waist Gap banana Republic
Next
6 8 10 12 14 16 18
hips
TOWARDS A DIGITAL APPROACH PRECEDENCES
DIGITAL TAILORING // JORGE & ESTHER Digital Tailoring: the process of draping, patterning, and creting garments for a specific individual from a 3D body scan. The process begins with a detailed scan of the individual. After the scan is processed, a digital draping process can be undertaken where patterns are fit to the body digitally, with a custom workflow.
CUSTOMIZED TO: YOUR SIZE
1. Design a mold in CAD and make it or have it made.
ELECTROLOOM // ELECTROLOOM The electrospinning process makes it possible for anyone with a small bit of CAD ability to design and create seamless fabric items on demand. The goal is to open the world of fashion design and manufacturing to everyone.
2. Place your design in the Electroloom and turn it on. Watch your custom fabric be created.
3. Pull your finished good off the mold. That’s it!
CUSTOMIZED TO: YOUR DESIGN
ORICALCO // GRADO ZERO ESPACE Shape memory Alloy (Nitinol) has used to obtain an orthogonally weaved fabric, called Oricalco, used for manufacturing of the first shape memory shirt at industrial level. Its sleeves could be programmed to shorten immediately as the room temperature heats up. Besides, the inserted shape memory material permits to mechanically deform the fabric and, after heating it with hot air for few seconds, to return on the previous shape. It is possible to perform this “deformation-return in shape� transformation many times.
RESPONSIVE TO: TEMPERATURE
BIOSUIT // MIT The BioSuit is a skintight spacesuit that offers improved mobility and reduced mass compared to modern gas-pressurized spacesuits. It is an active compression garments that incorporate small, springlike coils that contract in response to heat. The coils are made from a shape-memory alloy (SMA) — a type of material that “remembers” an engineered shape. At a certain trigger temperature, the coils contract to their “remembered” form, such as a fully coiled spring, tightening the cuff in the process.
RESPONSIVE TO: TEMPERATURE
UNSIZED A VISION FOR A PROGRAMMABLE GARMENT
STRATEGIES project phases
DESIGN
SMART TEXTILEs
ELECTRONICS
INTERFACE
FABRICATION
The parametric design of the garment will enable to digitally simulate and controlthe desired deformations.
Developement of custom smart textile with shape memory properties in order to adjust to users’ needs and be able to recover its initial configuration.
Electronics, such as heat wires and stretch sensors should be embedded in the garment in order to track the deformations digitally.
Auser friendly interface has to be developed so as the users can track their different designs and recall them when needed.
The aim of the project is to fully develop and fabricate woking prototypes in order to test, evaluate and improve the overall design.
VISION // PROGRAMMABLE GARMENT “Unsized” envisions a garment adjustable to the user’s preferences giving great importance to the humanapparel interaction. In the near future we foresee clothes being able to shape-shift during the day according to user’s different activities and environmental conditions. Unlike the majority of existing wearable projects, we intend to minimize electronics and insert smart materials instead. With shape memory materials and electronics knitted together in one unique cloth we can obtain an energy autonomous garment that can adjust to various inputs received by sensors. Heart rate, hormones level, temperature, humidity, light etc. can provide the garment with the data needed to trigger and fluctuate its transformation. Moreover, a user-friendly application can be provided in order to store these deformations and recall the particular designs any time needed.
ADJUSTABLE TO: YOUR DESIRES
Initial T-shirt // Memory position
Deformation A // Force at the bottom cool
DESIGN // DIGITAL PROTOCOL The computation is a common ground in all processes that bind UNSIZED. The definition of the design processes are linked to a unique code that allows you to generate different forms by changing the actuator forces in few steps.
Deformation B // Force at the sleeves
Deformation C // Force at the neck
Deformation D // Force at the sides heat input 12% elongation
material SIMULATION
3D Shape memory weft knitted fabric
Nimesis | Shape memory textile
SMART TEXTILES // SHAPE MEMORY MATERIALS Shape memory materials (SMMs) are featured by the ability to recover their original shape from a significant and seemingly plastic deformation when a particular stimulus is applied. This is known as the shape memory effect (SME). The SME can be utilized in many fields, from aerospace engineering (e.g., in deployable structures and morphing wings) to medical devices (e.g., in stents and filters) and fashion (e.g. programmable textiles, responsive garments).
Grado Zero Espace | Ni-Ti alloys textile
SMP composite loosely woven
shape memory: - alloys - polymer yarns
Sensors // Stretch sensor
ELECTRONICS // COMPONENTS The overall system is enriched with sensors, microcontrollers and actuators in order to trigger the smart materials and control the desired deformations. Our goal is to achieve an embedded knowledge in the textile, a paradigm known as ubiquitous computing.
Microcontroller // Arduino
Actuator //Constantan(Heat Wire)
SENSORS MICROCONTROLLERS ACTUATORS
INTERFACE // HUMAN-GARMENT INTERACTION A user-friendly application is provided in order to have a real-time control over the garment as well as a possibility to store prior deformations and recall particular designs any time needed.
Touch user APPLICATION PORTABLE INTERFACE
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2
3
4
5
6
months
STAGES
DESIGN
AGENDA // 1 ST PHASE (6 MONTHS) “Unsized” is an interdisciplinary project that requires collaboration of experts from different fields. The design team should coordinate the different stages simultaneously and bring them all together. The 1st phase is a 6 month research project. The first 4 months, design and small scale prototypes will be developed. During the last 2 months the focus will be on the 1:1 fabrication of the garment and the development of the interface.
SMART TEXTILES research
ELECTRONICS ImplementatIon
INTERFACE
FABRICATIOn
PRODUCT DESIGN MATERIAL SCIENCE ELECTRONICS PROGRAMMING
thank you info@noumena.io