Journal de Nîmes Nº 10

Journal de Nîmes Nº 10 AMSTERDAM THE CITY OF BLUE

SPRING/SUMMER 2014 WE SHARE A PASSION FOR THE GOOD THINGS IN LIFE WWW.TENUEDENIMES.COM

IN THIS ISSUE:

LEE

125 YEAR ANNIVERSARY

10 QUESTIONS TO MR. & MRS. HEBBING

'BORO'

BY TAVAN MANEETAPHO

THE ARCHIVES

BY DIRK KIKSTRA

ROGUE TERRITORY AN INTERVIEW WITH LESLIE YEUNG

SHADES OF BLUE KOJIMA, OKAYAMA AND TOKYO

PRINTED ISSUE € 4,- (NL)

COLOPHON

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TENUE DE NÎMES

EDITOR IN CHIEF Menno van Meurs menno@tenuedenimes.com

Tenue de Nîmes info@tenuedenimes.com

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CREATIVE DIRECTION AND GRAPHIC DESIGN Joachim Baan joachim@tenuedenimes.com

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WE ARE OPEN

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR Rene Strolenberg rene@tenuedenimes.com

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

12/18 10/18 10/18 10/21 10/18 10/18 13/18

ONLINE WORLD www.tenuedenimes.com SOME CONTRIBUTORS OLIVIER VAN DER HAGEN COPY DIRECTOR While initially looking to continue his corporate career, Olivier did some soul searching and left the bank he had been working for. During his self-imposed sabbatical, he met his neighbors, Tenue de Nîmes and a friendship was quickly struck up as he finally found people who were passionate about their jobs. Over the past few years, he has contributed to the last six issues. He is now a freelance writer, contributing written pieces to at least one other magazine besides this one at the time of going to press.

— THOMAS TUKKER PHOTOGRAPHER Whereas most of the photographers in the world have moved on to digital photography, Dutch fashion photographer Thomas Tukker still embraces the analog method for most of his projects. He uses custom made 4x5 inch rangefinder cameras to simply outclass the digital quality of today. Tukker’s approach is as unique in concept as it is in the visual results he produces. Conventional 4x5 inch cameras demand a slow and tedious process in order to take a photo. These custom cameras offer a huge advantage here, as they allow for a more dynamic and faster way of shooting because of their unique rangefinder function. The fine, artisan-like quality these cameras

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produce with their fixed, focal length Rodenstock lenses turned out to be a perfect match for Tenue de Nîmes’ good things in life.

— DIRK KIKSTRA PHOTOGRAPHER Kikstra was born in the Netherlands and raised in the United States. He studied photography in California.

He has lived in Amsterdam for seven years now.

After graduating Kikstra worked as an assistant to the famous portrait and fashion photographer Richard Avedon. Dirk did a lot of fashion shoots magazines like LINDA, RED, JFK in addition to commissions for various international brands.

Dirk loves the rough backstreets and alleyways of these cities. The juxtaposition of a beautiful model in her glamorous clothes set against a backdrop of these trashy neighborhoods hold a special appeal for him. dirkkikstra.com — ANAT DYCHWALD STYLIST Anat was born in Amsterdam. At the age of ten, she moved to Israel, where she eventually enrolled in Art School. This was followed by a stint in London, where she continued her studies and got a job at Tempereley London. After that Anat moved

to Los Angeles. Anat was invited to work for publications as Vanity Fair and GQ. Anat herself says she has been dressing people for photo shoots and films since she was sixteen years old and always incorporated lifestyle and fashion into her work. A few years ago she returned to Amsterdam.

— MATILDA TEMPERLEY PHOTOGRAPHER Matilda was born on a cider farm in Somerset, England in 1981. After pursuing a career in tropical infectious diseases she happened upon photography. She is known for her stylised portraiture of marginalised societies.

Matilda is based in London and divides her time between commissions and her personal work.

This year Matilda is a finalist for the SONY World Photo Awards for her African work. She is also currently a finalist in the CIWEM Environmental Photographer of the year awards for her work on the Somerset floods.

Matilda is working on a book 'UNDER THE SURFACE' documenting her community's recent flooding.

She combines traditional and digital techniques in her work and tends to draw inspiration from her Asian background. The culture and symbolism in Thailand can often be mystical and alluring and definitely influences her work. She tries to communicate these ideas using only imagery and hopes that they are thus understood universally. The good things in life for her are reading a good comic in the sun, drawing with ink, drawing girls, long boarding and books by Douglas Copeland. cargocollective.com/tavanm —

— TAVAN MANEETAPHO ILLUSTRATOR Tavan is an animator and illustrator currently finishing her third year at Kingston University, London.

JOURNAL DE NÎMES / Nº 10 AMSTERDAM, CITY OF BLUE, SPRING-SUMMER 2014

LEE 125 YEAR ANNIVERSARY P62

10 QUESTIONS TO MR. & MRS. HEBBING

INDIGO TREASURES P 22

DENHAM P 28

LEVI'S VINTAGE CLOTHING P 32

CEBO P 34

P6

'BORO'

BY TAVAN MA NEETAPHO P 42

THE ARCHIVES

BY DIRK KIKSTRA P 12

HANDCRAFTED MODERN Nº2 P 36

CURRENT ELLIOTT P 40

THE REAL MCCOY'S P 44

HIUT DENIM P 48

TENUE DE NÎMES PLAYLIST P 50

ROGUE TERRITORY P 24

SHADES OF BLUE P 52

THE JEAN SCHOOL P 60

ESSENTIALS BY MARIETTE HOITINK P 67

TENUE DE NÎMES X PASTOE P 68

SOMERSET DREAMS P 69

RED WING SHOES POSTMAN P 74

NEXT ISSUE P 75

JOURNAL DE NÎMES / Nº 10 AMSTERDAM, CITY OF BLUE, SPRING-SUMMER 2014

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TRAVELLING DENIM

BY TRAVELTEQ & TENUE DE NÎMES SOON

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NOTE FROM THE EDITORS

Amsterdam

JEANS CAPITAL OF EUROPE? WRITTEN BY MENNO VAN MEURS PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS TUKKER

Is Amsterdam the jeans capital of Europe? That question is asked a lot these days. Before I go into whether I believe that title is something we deserve here in ‘Mokum’, I guess it’s fair to say the Dutch love jeans. Proportionally, per inhabitant, the Dutch own the most pairs of jeans of any country and the Netherlands is the proud home to some of the world’s finest denim companies around.

I believe there is a reason for G-star opting to stay in Amsterdam and denim pioneers like Jason Denham choosing this particular 17th century village to use as their HQ from which he will conquer the world. On top of that our city is the proud host of the world’s first Jean School. Co-founders James Veenhof and Mariette Hoitink have successfully helped turn the blood in our country’s' veins indigo blue. In one year they will send the first group of denim graduates into the market place where they will be working in various disciplines such as sourcing, buying, developing or designing jeans for one of Amsterdam’s finest denim companies.

And then the world famous Kingpins denim fabric fair decided 2014 was the right time for Amsterdam to host a European trade show after the successful editions in New York, Los Angeles and Hong Kong. Reason enough for Hoitink and protégées to officially declare the 7-10th of May

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2014 ‘Amsterdam Denim Days’.

So are we the humble denim capital of the world? Let’s just say we are doing a great deal of cool stuff to come that little bit closer to that honorable and coveted title, but as far as I am concerned there is plenty left for us to do before we truly earn that moniker. One such thing for us was making a new Journal de Nîmes, focused on denim. This 11th edition introduces you to some of the great denim stories out there as well as some of our usual topics like the Handcrafted Modern section and the Tenue de Nîmes playlist, compiled by Rudy Ross. This new journal introduces you to a very inspiring couple: Peter (founder of the N=5 agency) and Petra (stylist) Hebbing, who are both collectors by heart. Photographer Thomas Tukker did a portrait of them for our '10 Questions’ section.

Next to that this issue introduces you to one of our special Dutch denim friends: Jason Denham. We met with Jason in his studio on Amsterdam’s Prinsengracht where he explained why he believes denim is such a remarkable thing to devote your life to. On top of that the 11th Journal de Nîmes introduces you to some inspiring labels like The Real McCoy’s, Current Elliott and Hiut Denim from Wales by the former Saatchi & Saatchi copy writer David and

his wife Clare Hieatt. Our Journal also introduces you to two super (denim) women: Leslie Young, Co-owner of L.A. denim brand Rogue Territory and Mariette Hoitink, Founder & Managing Director at HTNK Fashion, Recruitment & Consultancy, Co-founder of House of Denim, the Amsterdam Jean School and the Amsterdam Denim Days.

Now this newest issue would not be a complete denim issue without covering Lee’s 125th anniversary. Nor could we skip sharing our report of the trips we took to Tokyo, denim capital of the world, and Kojima, Okayama, where we paid tribute to the legendary Rampuya en Momotaro denim factories. Suffice to say it was crazy.

Over the coming months we will keep you updated on other interesting Journal de Nîmes topics through our new Tenue de Nîmes website. For now we hope you will enjoy this blue issue and let’s hope Amsterdam will continue honoring the compliment of becoming denim capital of Europe.

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INTERVIEW / Mr. & Mrs. Hebbing

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INTERVIEW / Mr. & Mrs. Hebbing

10 QUESTIONS TO MR. & MRS. HEBBING INTERVIEW BY MENNO VAN MEURS PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS TUKKER

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INTERVIEW / Mr. & Mrs. Hebbing

1.

Please introduce yourselves and tell us about your backgrounds?

We are Peter and Petra. We’re married and are raising two kids: Lotus Rosalina, fourteen years old and Ishi, twelve years old. His name means “Man” in the Yana language.

Peter: I grew up in Breda where I spent most of my childhood drawing and doodling. I loved the idea of becoming an illustrator when I grew up, so when I graduated high school, I enrolled at St. Joost Art Academy in Breda, majoring in Graphic Design.

Some time after graduating I read an article, written by Jan Cremer the Dutch writer, about a journey he went on with the Trans-Siberian Express. I clearly remember thinking that I want to do this too. So, to earn my ticket, I applied for a job at an advertising agency in Rotterdam. I got it, and with my first two pay checks I was off to Siberia. When I got back, the agency offered me a full time position and that’s how I entered the world of advertising. I had a blast – I got a taste of all aspects: I photographed, illustrated, filmed – you name it. I got to unleash my creativity in my job and loved it.

After a while I got a call from a company in Amsterdam. They had seen some of my work and wanted to meet with me. One thing led to another and I joined them. That’s when my career really took off.

Petra: I grew up in Zeist. One of my first memories is buying Marie Claire and Vogue from my first allowances. I studied fashion in Utrecht. To this day, fashion is a part of my every day life – it’s much more than just a job – it’s a passion.

2.

From the very first moment you guys walked into Tenue de Nîmes, we can’t seem to stop talking about ‘collecting'.

Can you explain what collecting means to you?

Petra: You create a world of your own.

To collect is to surround your self with items and objects that matter to you, which you love. They say something about who you are. I used to dream about living in a museum (Peter).

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How did you two meet? What ‘collections’ did each of you bring into your marriage?

We met in Amsterdam, through our jobs. I was coming back from a shoot abroad. Petra was a temp at the office and we’d never met before. Within ten minutes of meeting her I asked her to go for a coffee with me. That coffee turned into dinner at the Yamazato restaurant in the Okura hotel. A week after that, we moved in together. Three months later we were married, and the year after that, Lotus was born. We just ‘click’ on a lot of levels.

Our love for special things that mean something to us, comes together in a love of vintage clothing and fabrics from Petra’s side and for North American artifacts from Peter’s side. Plus we share a love of photography.

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4.

Speaking of North American artifacts, could you tell us more about your love for Native American tribes?

Peter: When I was seven, I did my holy communion and my parents got me a Native American tent. I still have a picture of me sitting in front of it with my wet, neatly combed hair. That tent awakened something in me that developed into an enduring love of that culture.

Part of this love has to do with a sense of justice. The injustice inflicted on the Native Americans is a story with universal reverberations. Whether it is the natives of North America, the Yanomami in South America, the Maori or the Aboriginals…it’s the same story everywhere.

On my first trip to Montana, I bought my very first pair of moccasins. Proper old ones, dating back to around 1780. I still have those. We never throw stuff away and we still take trips to places like Montana, Dakota, and Wyoming. Right now, we’re in Washington DC and one of the first things we did was visit the National Portrait Gallery. It has incredible portraits of prominent Native Americans that George Catlin did of them. I am pretty jealous of that – he actually got to see and meet them.

The Cheyenne tribe is my personal favorite. They make the most amazing stuff. They’re also closest to how we remember Native Americans : the eagle bonnet, painted faces, horses with feathers in their manes….the tipi’ s that they live in…all of that and much more.

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Please choose one item from your collection that feels like the perfect piece (and explain why).

We have tons of treasured items. But I think our absolute favorite is our wedding picture that Koos Breukel, a photographer and close friend of ours, took. It’s the only picture we have of that day, and it was taken the day after the ceremony.

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Do you guys throw anything away? If so, did you ever regret doing that? Please elaborate.

We don’t buy things only to throw them away later on. Stuff we buy belongs to us, becomes part of us, like old acquaintances.

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It occurred to us you travel a lot. What does visiting other countries and cities mean to you? Do you have a favorite place?

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Peter, your activities as 'brand builder’ at your Agency N=5 are very diverse. What is it that you do and how is ‘collecting' intertwined in all of that?

I am Art Director and Creative Director. I apply all of my various interests, fascinations and appreciations to my work. I make no distinction whether it concerns a gorgeous painting, a journey to a far away place or a pair of old moccasins.

9.

Last week we heard you guys will open a studio soon.

What will you be doing there?

For some time, we had been looking for a space where we can both do what we want: paint, photography, generally making a mess, various handicrafts. Just, you know, where we can do and make stuff. Create things you can hold in your hands and say: Look, I made this myself.

So recently we came across a space that used to be a gym, less than a hundred yards from where we live. It’s basically a 200m2 box. It was for sale so we jumped on it. We’re redecorating the place now.

We may use the space to organise exhibitions of stuff we’ve gathered on our travels, or photographs we’ve taken of these things. We may even use it to show other people’s work. We like to think of it as a platform for anyone who wants to share some of what they’ve made.

10.

Please describe a day in the life of Mr. and Mrs. Hebbing.

Do you have to cut a day into a hundred pieces to be able to do everything?

Petra is really good at dividing a day into parts. It gives her a sense of calm. I personally love and welcome all the things that happen on any given day. When John Glenn, the astronaut, returned to Earth after orbiting our planet multiple times, he was asked how his day had been and he answered: “What can you say about a day that had six sunsets and six sunrises?”

I love that!

“Like all great travellers, have I seen more than I remember, and I remember more than I have seen.” — Benjamin Disraeli Frequent travelling only fuels your desire to see and travel more.

The more you travel, the more you realize there’s so much more left to see in this world.

As the late Prince Claus already said: Tanzania is the most beautiful country in the world. We would agree with him. In fact, if there is such a thing as a paradise, it is most likely to be found there.

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INTERVIEW / Mr. & Mrs. Hebbing

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INTERVIEW / Mr. & Mrs. Hebbing

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INTERVIEW / Mr. & Mrs. Hebbing

"...I personally love and welcome all the things that happen on any given day. When John Glenn, the astronaut, returned to Earth after orbiting our planet multiple times, he was asked how his day had been and he answered: “What can you say about a day that had six sunsets and six sunrises?”

I love that!"

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The Tenue de Nîmes Archive

by Dirk Kikstra

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TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE / Dirk Kikstra

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TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE / Dirk Kikstra

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TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE / Dirk Kikstra

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TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE / Dirk Kikstra

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TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE / Dirk Kikstra

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TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE / Dirk Kikstra

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TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE / Dirk Kikstra

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JOURNAL DE NÎMES / Nº 10 AMSTERDAM, CITY OF BLUE, SPRING-SUMMER 2014

TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE / Dirk Kikstra

PHOTOGRAPHY: DIRK KIKSTRA STYLING: RENSKE VAN DER PLOEG MODELS: Ryan @ I am Elk Sophie @ Micha Models Michelle @ Micha Models Matthijs Janssen Anne Rixt Gast Uira P Dekker Ricardo van Lachterop Tommie Kuiper

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TREASURES / Armor Lux

INDIGO

BY ARMOR LUX

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TREASURES / Armor Lux

TREASURES PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS TUKKER

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1. Armor Lux Dip-dye Breton Stripe 2. 52 Weeks 52 Cities by Iwan Baan 3. Vintage ‘Boro’ 4. Vintage Indigo Scarf from Kenia 5. Mazama Wares ‘Moments' 6. Indigo Rag Balls 7. Indigo-dyed corduroy Blazer by Double RL 8. Vintage Indigo Cardigan, app.1910 9. Indigo Stencil Art by Bryan Whitehead 10. Let my People go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard

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INTERVIEW /Leslie Yeung Rogue Territory

Rogue Territory An interview with Leslie Yeung

She is a Chinese-American goal-orientated lady, always driven to find new challenges and things to learn. “Owning your own business is a natural fit for me, because there is never a boring day”.

INTERVIEW BY NIENKE VAN BAAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY DUNCAN WOLFE & ROGUE TERRITORY

Leslie Yeung (32), originally specialized in research and marketing, is now co-owner of Rogue Territory; a niche menswear denim brand hailing from Los Angeles, California. Together with her husband Karl Thoenessen she forms a hard working business-couple. Born out of a passion for the typical characteristics of denim Karl started a small custom denim label in 2008, which later evolved into a ready-to-wear denim label not long after. Since Rogue Territory is becoming a worldwide known brand Leslie joined the company to amplify its soul. As an experienced master of business administration in marketing, Leslie takes care of everything evolving Rogue Territory from head to toe. Besides being a member of the California denim scene, she is a traveller, a food-lover and in joyful expectation of her first child. We would like to share our conversation with Leslie about working in the denim industry, the brand Rogue Territory and her personal interests.

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JOURNAL DE NÎMES / Nº 10 AMSTERDAM, CITY OF BLUE, SPRING-SUMMER 2014

INTERVIEW /Leslie Yeung Rogue Territory

What have you been up to before Rogue Territory?

Prior to joining Rogue Territory full-time in February of 2013, I was working at Toyota corporate headquarters here in Los Angeles, working on the Social Media and Lifestyle Marketing team at Scion. In my previous career, I was a Research Associate in the biotech industry, working in Diabetes research for about 5 years. I guess I have had many career and life changes thus far!

What exactly is your main function at Rogue Territory?

Since we're a small husband-wife team, both of our functions are pretty much anything and everything. My main focus is on the digital side, so I built and manage our website and online store, customer service, website photography, and social media. I also manage the wholesale side of our business and Karl and I work closely on branding, business development, special projects and everything else that running your own business calls for.

Do you think the denim industry is emancipated through the years or still dominated by men?

For the specific area of denim that our brand exists in, I do think it is more male-dominated, but that makes sense because we are a menswear brand and raw selvedge denim is still a niche market that hasn't really transcended into women's fashion in a big way. Viewing this industry from a female perspective has been very interesting and eye-opening. I have come to learn a lot about the psychology of the male shopper, especially since I work so closely with our customers.

Why did you decide to work in the denim industry?

For me, it was not really a conscious decision to work in the denim industry. I've always had an entrepreneurial desire and really just knew that one day I wanted to do something creative and work for myself. Karl and I moved to Los Angeles in 2007 when I decided to go to graduate school to get my MBA (Master of Business Administration) in Marketing. From there, it has been a very organic path leading to where we are today. Karl has always had an undying passion for denim and Rogue Territory started as a custom jeans shop. The plan was never really to launch a brand, but as interest in Karl's work began to grow, it just made sense and all the pieces fell together. So we launched Rogue Territory as a ready-to-wear brand at the end of 2009 and at that point I was only able to be involved part-time since I was working full-time at Toyota. But the goal has always been to build the business to the point where we could grow it together. It's been a fun ride so far, and we're excited to see where the future will take us.

What do you find interesting about working in this industry?

The most interesting part of working in this industry is getting to know our customers. We are very engaged with our customers and I am so impressed by their integrity and unwavering support of the brand as it has evolved over the years. They really support what we do and what we stand for. Besides that they have built a community with each other, which is so cool to see people connecting because of a common interest in Rogue Territory!

Could you tell us something about the relationship with your customers?

I answer all the emails that we receive so I work very closely with customers to answer their denim questions and help them with style and sizing. Because of this I have gotten to know a lot of our repeat and loyal customers, and I'm also very engaged with them on Instagram.

How would you describe the brand Rogue Territory?

Rogue Territory is a brand that is focused on quality apparel for a discerning customer who appreciates subtle design details, impeccable fit, and a modern take on classic garments. We are about exploration and not defining who we are or who our customer is. We want Rogue Territory

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to have the freedom to continuously evolve its design and aesthetic, but we will never stray from these key elements of the brand.

Are the designs of Rogue Territory based on a particular inspiration?

Karl's designs are really just based off of what he wants to wear. If he feels like there is something missing in his wardrobe, he makes a prototype of it and we test it out. Karl does not chase fashion trends, he makes basic garments that can be in your wardrobe for years to come and that can easily compliment other garments you already own. He does draw inspiration from the functional design details from vintage and military garments, but at the end of the day a lot of our products are driven by the fabrics itself. It always starts with the fabric first. It has to speak to you, and the fabric should always stand on its own, it should not need unnecessary design elements to make the piece stand out.

Your all-time Rogue Territory favourite is?

One of my personal favorites is our Safari Trousers. It is a great heavy herringbone fabric that goes through a garment dying process, so it is nice and soft, but has a substantial quality weight to it. I wear them oversized like a ‘boyfriend-fit’; it is the most comfortable thing ever! Most people know us for our denim, but those who give the Safari Trousers a try are believers for life.

Does Rogue Territory have the ambition to design and produce denim pieces for woman in the near future?

This is a question we get asked all the time, especially from loyal customers who want to share their love of Rogue Territory with the ladies in their life. Though Karl has made me custom jeans and shirts (I know, I'm spoiled!), we don't have any immediate plans for a women's line. If we did introduce women's products in the future, it would be a small capsule collection and they would probably just be female versions of what we already make, tailored more for a woman's fit.

How would you describe your own style?

I would say my style is simple and straightforward. I tend to wear more neutrals, like grey, black, natural and of course indigo!

Denim: what does it mean to you?

To me, denim is probably the most unique and versatile fabric out there. It is a staple fabric that will never go away and will never go out of style. It can be worn so many different ways that are unique to the person wearing it, and there are so many different denims, it’s overwhelming! I also think denim has an emotional side to it that not many other fabrics do. Denim is more than just a pair of jeans or a jacket, it is a very personal piece of clothing that you love and care for. It goes on a journey with you and it documents the marks of your travels and your life.

How would you wear your own denim pieces?

In the Fall/Winter season I tend to stick with raw selvedge denim that is fitted, but since the "cold" weather in Los Angeles doesn't last very long (like 2 weeks out of the year!), it makes it challenging to break them in quickly. In the warmer months I like to wear my denim more baggy, like the boyfriendfit, and prefer to wear washed selvedge denim often for the comfort and casual style.

What’s the women’s trend on denim in L.A.?

In L.A., I would say that skinny jeans and boyfriend fit are the most popular for women. L.A. and California style in general is very casual and laid back, so you will see a lot of women wearing light washes with heavy distressing in a baggy anti-fit. You can wear it with cute sandals during the day, and dress it up with a pair of heels at night. It's a very versatile look.

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INTERVIEW /Leslie Yeung Rogue Territory

When in L.A., what would be the hot-spots and must see places you recommend?

Where do I have to start?! L.A. is an amazing city for food, especially a large variety of ethnic food.

Koreatown and Japantown are some of my favorite areas to eat, there are so many restaurants and choices it will make your head spin. We live on the Eastside of L.A. so we tend to hang out mainly in the Downtown, Silverlake, Los Feliz neighborhoods. One of the best things about L.A. in recent years has been the development of a very very good coffee scene. L.A. also has many art museums and galleries, which we try to visit whenever we have spare time. We recently went to a small art gallery in Culver City, called Blum & Poe, and it is one of my new favorite places.

We saw the Yoshitomo Nara retrospective there, who is one of my favorite artists. For fashion, L.A. is interesting; it's very spread out. Amazing independent boutiques are sprinkled throughout the city so there isn't really one general area that comes to mind for fashion. For menswear, my favorite boutiques are General Quarters on La Brea and Tradesmen in Venice. Both stores have a very different aesthetic but are impeccably curated and some of the best customer service you will find in town.

Being a foodie, what is your favorite bite?

This is a hard question! I love all Asian cuisine, and choosing a specific style is difficult because they are all so different. But I would say I mainly consume a lot of Korean, Thai, Japanese and Mexican. L.A. has AMAZING ‘Street Tacos’!

About travelling, anything planned in the near future?

Well, Karl and I are expecting our first baby at the end of July, so it might be awhile before we have our next big trip, but we'd love to make it back to Japan soon. The last time we were in Japan was in 2008, and we didn't have enough time to travel outside of the major cities. We'd love to make a trip to Okayama to visit our friends at Nihon Menpu Mills and learn more about their business and craft. One of the reasons we source so much of our denim from them, aside from it being some of the best denim in the world, is that they are also very passionate about their trade, and we find that inspiring. If we're out there, we'd love to hop over to South Korea, neither of us has been yet.

Last one: What would be your life dream?

My life dream is to continue to do something that fulfills me creatively, and be able to continue to travel the world and share that experience with my children. I want them to see the world with their own eyes and to learn about other cultures and how other people live in other parts of the world. I want to never be bored, to always be working on something meaningful and I always want to be learning something new.

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What makes you really happy?

It's very simple: Food. Travel. Family. Friends. All of those combined at the same time if possible.

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INTERVIEW /Leslie Yeung Rogue Territory

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FEATURE / It's A Denham World

It's A Denham World

WRITTEN BY OLIVIER VAN DER HAGEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS TUKKER

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FEATURE / It's A Denham World

Denim integrity. A garment library. Destroy convention, worship tradition. Are these words and phrases cut and dried to you? Does it make you think of your typical clothing shop? Far from it. Not this guy. But if it did, the next thought, not burdened by nuance or fact, might be that someone found a fairly pretentious way to talk about his brand because catchy labels and slogans are thrown about a lot these days. So then there would be some logic to looking at these terms with some initial scepticism. I know I did. But then it would be worth looking beyond them because they linger. They make one curious. A garment library? Why? What the hell is it and what goes on in there?

Denham, the Jeanmaker first started in Amsterdam in 2008. Denham had already been working in Amsterdam for a good while. He crossed the Channel while working for Pepe Jeans, and later set up Clinic+ here, a consultancy for denim brands. He saw how Amsterdam intrinsically combines its roots, its rich history and its desire to innovate. It may lag behind a city like Rotterdam in terms of architecture, but in terms of design, fashion and cuisine, it is up there with cities abroad that are at the top of these industries.

It is this combination and his experiences while at work for Clinic+ that he realised he should get in on the game - not just advise other brands how to make better jeans and build a better brand, but lead by example. It is his philosophy of destroying convention but worshipping tradition that became the brand's mission statement. Denham has, in its first five and a half years already proven beyond any doubt that it does not fear to take bold steps in innovation. Aside from the creative thrills and inspiration this generates, it is also, quite simply, a wise business decision.

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So, 2008 rolls around and mr Denham gets to the stage where his first Amsterdam shop is ready to open to the general public. This was some timing because it was then, too, that a lot of business either folded or decided to call it quits themselves. The ones that survived heralded the age of the bare brick walls in stores. Whether this was because of a lack of budget brought on by these hard times, or whether it was a conscious decision varies from store to store.

Whereas these days it seems a copy/paste exercise for a large number of shops to strip the walls and build their business inside that bare, industrial looking space (for that authentic and artisanal experience), Denham applied this bit of interior styling not so much as a gimmick but rather to underline the rough and raw nature of denim and its work wear roots. Step inside any of its stores, and you will know gimmicks, or slick design is not what Denham is about.

Traditional thought had it that this rough unpolished edge of the denim fabric disqualified it from being combined with more sophisticated wear, or from using this fabric to produce top quality garments. Mr Denham believes, and continues to prove, quite the opposite is in fact also true. This is partly his belief, but partly what has come out of Denham's research in its library cum laboratory. Walk into any of his stores and you will very likely feel a sense of awe. Dedication and passion for the product take centre stage here.

This man, this company, takes denim very, very seriously. It treats it with respect. It studies its history and roots to dizzying depths. In the words of a

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FEATURE / It's A Denham World

great mind from the past: you don't know where you're going, until you know where you've been. It may also have been a song lyric, but that does not make it less true or appropriate. This is what Denham does. It has a library, where denim is researched in meticulous detail. From the tiniest sewing detail, to the origination of a particular rivet, to the shape or traditional purpose of any of the pockets fit onto the early models. If it is documented, or ever made from denim, this place either has a specimen or it is examined here.

The idea of taking the time to dissect, review, analyse a garment or a particular fabric is lovely - and a sign of true craftsmanship. Quality takes time but will rise to the surface, without fail. It may well be the key to longevity. Times of crises change people's mindsets. They will still spend money, but will do so more discerningly. If they are going to spend money, they want to spend it well. They want to see a return on investment.

The in-depth examination of denim and its history that goes on in the denim library, its focus on history and craftsmanship is what seeps into every pore of the business and its employees. This in turn ensures the business prospers. The employees are a tight group of likeminded, trusted colleagues that mr Denham has surrounded himself with. They are another of the key contributors to the brand's rising name.

Denham's previous jobs allowed him to meet and work with people who came highly recommended or had made a serious name for themselves in the field. Collaborating with like minded individuals creates a spark, a desire to do outstanding work. If you manage that, the real challenge begins, but the dedication will grow. I will not even attempt to try to further catch this magic in words, because it is impossible, but it is inspiring to see this is still possible. Especially since, despite the passion of Jason and other like minded businessmen, there is very much a bottom line that dictates that

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while passion is truly important, so is financial health.

Jason Denham manages to balance the two elements to great effect. The result, unadulterated joy and pride, beam out of his stores, luring in the unsuspecting as well as the already converted.

Now, plenty of people know the brand - or know of it, at least. And the above hopefully gives you an impression of what he does, and why. But not too many know much about the man who lent his name to his brand. One of his first jobs, for example, was in garment design in the workshop of Joe Casely-Hayford. This name may or may not ring bells. Mr Denham would not namedrop as shamelessly as I will, so rather than Wikpedia him right now, just read on: this is the British designer who has his own label and has taken on assignments in film and music (no name dropping here- suffice to say his clients were no talent show hopefuls). Moreover, for the past eight or nine years now, this icon has been creative director at Gieves & Hawkes the Savile Row house that has been around for over two centuries. How's that for pedigree?

It is a sign of the man that prefers to let his brand and his business decisions do the talking. Yet anyone who makes his mark in denim, in a city that is rapidly making name for itself as the potential new Denim Capital of the world, does pique one's curiosity. Who is this man? How does he launch his brand on the eve of one of the biggest global crises in human history - and flourish? Frankly, why bother to speculate? Instead, let's find out first hand. Since the man is practically Tenue de NĂŽmes' neighbor, why not just come out and ask him and celebrate this man's vision and success? So that's what we did.

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FEATURE / It's A Denham World

How were you with denim as a kid?

Was it love at first sight or was it more platonic and functional?

I loved denim as a kid and always wanted a pair of Levi's but my parents always bought me cheap fashion denim labels like 'Brutus' & 'Brittania' (an old Dutch label by the way!), It was all the rage in the 70's. As soon as I earned my first paycheck I bought my first 501 and never looked back.

One of your first jobs was working for mr. Joe Casely-Hayford. Tell us about that?

Was it hard graft? What did you take away from there that you didn't take away from your formal education?

It was an amazing experience and it was very different to formal education. It was real, I got thrown in at the deep end from day 1 and my first project was making Jeans for the U2 Zooropa tour, for Bono and The Edge. We started at 8am and finished at midnight every day. It was very intense work and I was mostly in an east end London sample room sewing and putting the pieces together (not glamorous at all). I will never forget the night I took Bono's jean home so I could take it to another sewing facility in the morning who had a special machine I needed to finish the piece off. However it didn't go to plan, I fell asleep on the tube and woke up at my stop and quickly jumped off the train ….leaving my bag (with Bono's jean inside) on the train ….and I stood there and watched it drive off into the tunnel. I wanted the world to swallow me up. I fucked up big time. I went straight back to the sample room and worked the whole night to replace the jean. That was my first lesson in business life.

Exactly how do you destroy convention but worship tradition? Can you give us an example of a recent practical case where you did this?

Recently we launched our CATEGORY 5 story which is our challenge at taking on the classics. We studied the iconic 5 pocket Jean – we worshipped the tradition, our archive is full of them so we are very respectful of this product, but we destroyed convention by giving the classic icon an up-to-date twist. We kept it simple and clean but refocused the balance of workwear tradition and tailoring skills. Look inside this jean and you will see "the truth is in the details", such as a traditional one piece fly, lined back pockets, printed yokes, fish bone lined waistband and pocket bags and copper metal work. This in combination with the cut and usage of modern denim materials and finishing techniques creates the balance that is so important for Denham product.

Do you purposefully seek details or extra's to set Denham apart from what else is out there or is it a matter of personal preference?

We have worked very hard to create a brand and a brand needs a point of view and a signature. We work hard to respect tradition and at the same time push things forward. We hope to add to the denim history, not solely recreate it.

Is there such a thing as a trademark Denham detail, or even a typical Denham pair of jeans?

Yes, we took inspiration from the tailors circa 1875 and trademark protected our own iconic details JOURNAL DE NÎMES / Nº 10 AMSTERDAM, CITY OF BLUE, SPRING-SUMMER 2014

such as the 7 point pocket, cable connection button holes and drop yokes.

How did, and do, Denham's distinguishing detailing such as the drop yoke come about?

When we launched the brand six years ago we felt it was important to enter the market with a signature jean, every brand should have one. We are not a copycat label and that's why we created our own signature details such as the 7 point pocket ( based on the shape of my hand) and drop yokes, etc. These details come from the practical understanding of collecting, making, designing and wearing jeans for many years.

I have read that you aim to bring back work wear culture with your collections. What do you mean by that and how will you do so?

Actually we don't think that the workwear attitude ever went away. It's been a staple of menswear since the beginning and it's taught us a lot about quality fabrics and practical utility constructions.

But we're also happy the trend is progressing beyond the stereotypical nostalgia-oriented "heritage" aesthetic toward more dynamic modern technical concepts. Even in the stubborn traditional 5-pocket denim market things are evolving. Guys today are looking for much more slender fits that can move and perform. Innovative stretch denims that can handle premium wash effects and give the customer exciting new choices are key in our current collections.

How many stores do you have in Amsterdam now?

We have 4 DENHAM stores in Amsterdam that each serve a different platform. The first store we opened was the men's store in season #1 in an old gallery space in the nine streets area, directly attached to our HQ / showrooms and design studio. We have since added a women's boutique, a flagship store which houses all the collections including a private wardrobe and a sake bar. Most recently we added the Coffee & Concept store which is a rotating storytelling platform that we refresh every seven weeks.

Where do you want to take this brand?

What would be your ideal scenario for the brand in 10-15 years time?

Both myself and the team are very proud of what we have already achieved in the last six years.

Today we present our brand in 22 countries, we have satellite offices in Tokyo and London and 10 of our own stand alone stores, in Amsterdam, London, Berlin, Sydney, Tokyo, Osaka and we sell in 500 international doors, some of the most beautiful stores in the world. The foundation of our brand is People, Product, Presentation. My dream is that we continue doing what we do today with the same passion and energy and that we become one of the key denim brands of our generation.

You have recently collaborated with street artist Laser 3.14 whose work, quite like your brand, can be found all across Amsterdam these days. Please tell us all about this collaboration and how it came about?

I am big fan of photography, graphic & street Art. I collect it and a friend of mine called Mark

Chalmers (who BTW has the coolest art concepts - check the Garage / Libertine) hooked us up. I respect Laser because he respects his canvas. He never tags people's walls - only surfaces which are temporary, this is kinda cool. We share the same values and Laser became our guest Artist for the season. Due to our passion for art, we support a guest artist in our Tee shirt collection each season.

I read about your plans to open over 25 stores in Japan over the coming three years.

Granted, Japan is a big country but to this layman's eyes that seems a big number in a quite narrow time frame. What is the idea behind this, aside from reaching as many people a possible?

Japan is the number one denim market in the world.

There are 120 million people living in Japan and 26 million in Tokyo city alone. Japan is one of the strongest economies in the world and Japan has the highest taste level and understanding of quality denim. Japan is People, Product & Presentation.

They get it better than any country in the world and DENHAM fits perfectly in this market. We are working with great partners to establish a solid presence there and retail concepts have proven to be successful in a country where storytelling is key. We say "the truth is in the details" …..the Japanese invented it.

Do you pay attention at all to what consumers look for or do you put your head down and do what feels right to you? Is there ever a time to do either, or possibly both, in producing jeans?

The customer is king and you should always listen to what he / she is looking for. We are lucky to be based in Amsterdam and the Netherlands has a great network of denim stores that provide strong feedback, however we also listen carefully to our international offices. Its also very important to follow your instincts which we do everyday.

In this light it almost seems as though you wish to spread the gospel of denim.

Leave your modesty aside: do you see what you do as such?

Maybe this is a modest answer, but I'm not sure I understand this question?

Does it amaze or surprise (or please) you that you've been labelled a visionary when what you've done is in essence combining the basics of marketing, retail, customer service and design but pushed them to levels that made the most sense to you?

I love what I do and so do the people around me.

We are a very young, ambitious, small, fast moving and energetic company. We work very hard to fight for our space in the market, I like to think that we have brought a 'fresh denim brand' to the market. By the way – This is the first time I heard I have been labelled a visionary. Yes I’m surprised and yes I’m flattered!

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BRAND FEATURE /Levi's Vintage Clothing

Levi's Vintage Clothing presents Treasure Island -1939WRITTEN BY MENNO VAN MEURS PHOTOGRAPHY BY IMMO KLINK

In 1939, the city of San Francisco hosted the World’s Fair on man-made Treasure Island. LS&Co joined the hometown festivities by holding an exhibition in The Gayway area of the fair. To celebrate the 75th anniversary Levis Vintage Clothing reproduced a selection of the Levi’s Western Wear garments that were worn by the stars and attendees of the fair.

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BRAND FEATURE /Levi's Vintage Clothing

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BRAND FEATURE / Cebo

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BRAND FEATURE / Cebo

CZECHO CEBO SLOVAKIA BOTA WRITTEN BY MENNO VAN MEURS PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS TUKKER

It was our good friend Roel Hagen and his business partner Philippe Rousseaux who first introduced us to the world of vulcanized sneakers. Roel is a shoe fetishist and specialist in equal measure. Long before he launched his CEBO brand he used to come into the store on Saturdays, bringing freshly made lemon cake and some samples to tell us about his latest adventures in Slovakia.

mold. Then, heated, 100% natural, liquid and uncured rubber is injected into the mold under high pressure and envelops sole and canvas upper to form a unified shoe.

The press then opens and the shoe is released from the mold to cool down. Extra rubber caused by overflow is removed by hand. The process is named after Vulcan, the Roman god of fire.

It was in this eastern European city that he found his treasure: the CEBO factory. He considers it a treasure to this day because it both enabled him to live his dream, but it also came with a rich history: the factory was established in the late 1930s in Simonovany, in what was then still called Czechoslovakia, by Antonin Bata. The plant was nationalized after the Second World War by the new communist government and renamed ‘Zavody 29 augusta’(ZDA). The town was renamed ‘Partizanske’.

Since the 1950s, various shoe models were made under the CEBO brand name.

After the separation of Czechoslovakia into The Czech republic and Slovakia in 1993, the factory became an independent private company. Today, producing high quality vulcanized canvas shoes and rubber boots have remained the core business of the factory.

Vulcanizing of canvas shoes became a major method of manufacturing. Around the midway point of the 20th century, production in the CEBO plant went into top gear, producing as much as thirty million pairs of shoes annually, employing over 10,000 people to do so.

The CEBO canvas shoes are produced with a direct vulcanization process. This means that outsole and canvas upper are put on last and inserted into a metal

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Back to the 21st century. It took Roel several years to finally get to the point where he could show his baby, the reinvigorated CEBO shoe brand, to the world. It is with great pleasure, pride and a feeling of distinction that now, Tenue de Nîmes one of the very first stores globally to re-introduce the CEBO sneaker brand to the world.

The brand name CEBO is a contraction of the words ‘Czechoslovakia’ and ‘Bota’ and simply means ‘Czech shoe’. Today CEBO shoes are still manufactured in the original eastern European factory in its authentic design. Surviving many western competitors as well as continuously changing trends, these classics have become a part of footwear history.

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DESIGN / Handcrafted Modern

Handcrafted Modern Nº2 We will always remember the first time we met with our good friend Leander during an opening at Gabriel Rolt's Elandsgracht gallery.

Whenever he starts talking you can only listen and enjoy all his bold theories on business, arts and vintage design. Leander explained that in his opinion Wharton esherick's staircase and a Hickoree Stripe overall

by Lee have more in common than you would believe at first sight.

WRITTEN BY BLOOMBERRY PHOTOGRAPHY BY HANS KNAPPER

Wood slat C5 lounge chair

by Klaus Grabe UNITED STATES This incredible wood slat ‘C5’ chaise longue is from the 1950s and was made

by Bauhaus trained Klaus Grabe. It has a plywood construction with slats atop a curvaceous frame. The slats make this a very hard to find piece, as this type is usually found with webbing instead of slats. Bauhaus trained Klaus Grabe left Germany in the 1930s for Mexico. Here Grabe worked together with fellow Bauhaus student Michael Van Beuren and Morley Webb. This team was part of the MoMa Organic Design in Home Furnishings Competition and exhibition in 1941, their winning entry was a similar chaise with leather webbing. Later in the 1940s, Grabe moved to New York where he started his own company. His designs in the 1950s were based on the new material plywood and were marketed as "prefab kits" to be assembled by the owners to keep the purchase price down.

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DESIGN / Handcrafted Modern

A Greenish Blue Ceramic Pitcher

by Suzanne Ramié FRANCE A greenish blue ceramic pitcher by Suzanne Ramié, Vallauris, France. Signed with Ramié's 'Madoura-Plein Feu' mark underneath. Perfect condition.

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DESIGN / Handcrafted Modern

Large Freeform Coffee Table in Walnut with White Fomica Circular Accent UNITED STATES Very large freeform coffee table in walnut The table has a white formica circular inlay and tapering legs.

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DESIGN / Handcrafted Modern

Iconic Canadian lounge chair

by Russel Spanner CANADA Russell Spanner was a Canadian furniture designer who worked in the 1950s. Spanner’s designs caught on and were ultimately sold in Eaton’s and Simpson’s department stores. To date, this is the closest Canadian vintage furniture comes to being collector's items and achieving iconic status.

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BRAND SPECIAL /Current Elliott

Current/Elliott

WRITTEN BY OLIVIER VAN DER HAGEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY CURRENT /ELLIOTT

Current Elliott is a brand that is rooted in the passion for vintage and denim of its two founders of the same name: Emily Current and Meritt Elliott. Their immaculate styling and accessorizing has earned them hard core fans in LA, among fashion lovers, celebrities looking for the new, fresh look and the admiration of anyone who loves vintage and classic, original garments as much as Emily and Meritt do. They have a knack of taking denim, each garment pretty much already perfect as is, and yet find a way to add their touch to it that makes it better yet. It’s a natural born taste and ability that they seem to reinforce in one another because their original paths would have led them in quite different directions.

The two young women attend the same college at the start of the 2000’s and are headed for a Sociology degree. Both are already insanely excited about, and in love with, all vintage garments they can get their hands on jeans in particular. It seems it can only be a matter of time before these two meet and join forces. And the universe agrees.

One particularly sunny Californian day, these two ladies meet, and creative sparks fly instantly. If there is such a thing as soul mates in terms of clothing and styling, Emily and Meritt define it. As they bond over views on styling and fashion, their friendship deepens.

Before long, they figure they could make a living doing what they truly love: designing garments, based on classics and adding their own unique twist to them. They start out with styling people around them, purely based on their love of, and fascination of, vintage denim and ‘dressing without rules’, as they put it.

Sure enough, their fresh, original views, designs and their sense of accessorizing outfits in spectacular ways are soon picked up by friends and eventually (inevitably you might also say) by blogs and magazines. They hit the limelight once celebrities start picking up on what these women do.

Moreover Current Elliott is widely regarded as the brand responsible for re-popularizing the boyfriend jean.

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CULTURE / Another Collection Illustrated

ANOTHER COLLECTION ILLUSTRATED

'Boro'

by Tavan Maneetapho WRITTEN BY CHRIS VAN VEGHEL

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CULTURE / Another Collection Illustrated

Boro is the Japanese word for 'tattered rags'. It is used to describe patched and repaired cotton bedding and clothing that has been used way longer than their expected lifespan. Like early North American patchwork quilts, a boro textile reveals much about the life of the particular Japanese family that used the cloth. In a tradition that started somewhere in the 17th century, the penny-wise Japanese rural housewives would repair the family’s futon covers, farmers’ vests, fishermen's coats and even mosquito netting again and again by 'boro' patching fabric scraps over worn out areas and holes in the fabric.

The diversity of patches on any given piece forms a veritable encyclopedia of hand-loomed cotton indigo from old Japan. In most cases, the beautiful arrangement of patches and mending stitches was born out of necessity, done when needed, and was not planned by the maker. Picture if you will how boro textiles would be repaired, on the porches of farmhouses, often at night by the light of one dim andon, in the laps of farm women. This unselfconscious creative process has yielded handmade articles of soulful beauty. Each piece can –should, even- be recognized and admired for so much more than the utilitarian cloth they started out as.

Today, international collectors regard boro textiles as uniquely Japanese and striking examples of a bygone time and a lost folk craft. When Japan was struggling to recover from the devastation of the Second World War, the Japanese regarded boro textiles with great shame: these utilitarian pieces of fabric served as an explicit reminder of their country’s impoverished past.

Today, these same textiles are cherished and collected for the stories they tell and the glimpses they provide into Japanese folk culture and history.

To this day, the tradition leaves its mark. Ralph Lauren, for example, was inspired by the boro tradition in creating his Blue Label line while Yoshiko Wada has written an insightful book on it and teaches workshops based on the principles of boro.

'Another Collection Illustrated' is an ongoing project on Another Something where we combine our love for collections and illustrations.

More on www.anothersomething.org —

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BRAND FEATURE / The Real McCoy's

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BRAND FEATURE / The Real McCoy's

The Real McCoy's Imperfectly Perfect WRITTEN BY OLIVIER VAN DER HAGEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE REAL MCCOY'S

If you do not know this brand by the meaning of their name, ie: the real deal, you may have heard of them as the ‘ masters of Americana’. And if that does not ring a bell, then odds are you have been living in a cave, or have zero interest in denim and vintage, which begs the question why you’re holding this magazine anyway.

The Real McCoy's started as a company around the turn of this century at the hands of Hitoshi Tsujimoto who before launching his brand, was a collector of, and dealer in, vintage garments.

So off the bat, this man had done his research out of personal fascination and admiration before he even started the company.

And to think that came about after he took a road trip across the US back in the late 1970s. He brought back several jeans, sweaters and other garments and sold them upon his return to Japan. Coincidence or not, the vintage craze there was just taking off, and before too long, Hitoshi opened a store in an area of Osaka, appropriately named Amerikamura.

The Real McCoy's started out with two lines of jeans: the sportswear line, labelled Joe McCoy, featuring all unsanforized denim, with fits inspired by those made and worn around the start of the twentieth century, as well as the slim fit, five-pocket versions we often see these days. Then there's the militaryinspired line, that largely draws on the style and shapes of jeans as they existed around the time of the Second World War. This line features thicker, sturdier denim (14.25oz sanforized selvedge) and using bar tacks instead of metal rivets (any spare bit of metal was used for the war effort at the time).

Serious details aside, the brand also incorporates a wink or a nudge here and there. The leather patch of jeans from the WWII

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main line for example riffs on the Levi’s image of two horses trying to pull a pair of Levi’s apart -on these jeans. The Real McCoy's have replaced the horses with tanks. Jeans aside, the brand also offers sweats and variations on the bomber jackets, which also go down a storm by fans of the brand and the less obsessed alike.

The clever aspect of a name like “Real McCoy's” is that everyone instantly knows that it is an expression of originality. And yes, this brand is a reproduction label, which at first glance might make the name seem ironic. So might the fact that the Japanese have cornered the market on (vintage) Americana - leaving America itself scratching its head and looking on in amazement.

What is interesting to note is that here too, recession was the mother of invention. When Japan was still booming, it would just import everything from food, to clothing to whatever came to mind. But as this became riskier, the Japanese decided they might as well have a go at creating some of the things they imported so easily themselves. So, they did their research, put their heads down and their visors on, and not only perfected the art of creating denim the way the Americans do it, they are now having a go at Italian-style coffee (espresso most notably) and French cooking, too, to name a few examples.

Back to The Real McCoy's - these guys have so much perfected the art of their vintage offerings, they have effectively re-earned the title of being true originals. Meanwhile, the employees at the brand are just living their dream, doing what they love, pursuing their vision. But even they cannot deny it is a bold move to seek

to recreate vintage American garments and then improve on them where they see room and use for it. Plus, let's not forget this brand does not satisfy itself by just reinvigorating items of (predominantly) military and sportswear from the 1940s-1950s era America. It does so using the very production methods the local craftsmen used back then.

What The Real McCoy's do with each item they create is paying tribute to the history of each of the garments. What we do not see is the exhaustive research that precedes production.

Meticulously, every detail is reviewed, traced back to where it came from, how it got to be incorporated in the original garment, and so on.

Unsurprisingly therefore, the brand has achieved a cult status in Japan, with their die hard fans obsessed with every item directly re-traceable to 1940s or 1950s America that the brand puts out. Reading about how they go about what they do, and why, it is hard to imagine a similar cult status here, albeit possibly a matter of Calvinist mentality (in the Netherlands, anyway) that does not easily lift anything up to cult status, or for locals here walking around proclaiming their obsession with a brand like The Real McCoy's. Perhaps it is just a matter of time, for the name and reputation to spread. And honestly: why could we not obsess over a brand or its products? Let's celebrate, rather than being all cerebral about it.

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BRAND FEATURE / The Real McCoy's

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BRAND FEATURE / The Real McCoy's

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BRAND FEATURE / Hiut Denim

Do one thing well

Hiut Denim. A company founded by David and Claire Hieatt with a history that, brief as it may be as yet, already reads like a modern day fairy tale. The couple had a strong desire to start a new (ad)venture, and that was to make excellent quality, raw jeans. In Wales. In the town of Cardigan, western Wales, to be precise. We say ‘new adventure' because the town has in a previous life already played a big role in garment manufacturing.

Even though of late, the only thing that reminded people of Cardigan’s prime industry was its name.

Let's rewind roughly twenty years. David and Claire Hieatt set up Howies in 1995 right there in Cardigan. Howies was, and is, a brand that specialises in eco-friendly sportswear and jeans and over time became known for its eco-friendly jeans and its insistence on fair conditions in which their fabrics were sourced and their garments manufactured. Particularly its Tee shirts were popular among the surfing, skateboarding and mountain biking crowds.

When the Hieatts first set up their brand, it co-existed peacefully with the Dewhirst Group in this western region of Wales, flourished into a successful brand over the years, even though Dewhirst employed the vast majority of the town's working population at the time. It churned out thousands of pairs of jeans for large retailers across the UK. Eventually however, the group outsourced its production facilities overseas a year or two after the turn of the millennium.

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So those jobs left, but the talent and skills remained. Howies as stated, was doing well. An amusing Wikipedia-factoid survives from those days that will have helped spread its name: at one stage, Howies decided to put tabs of its logo on the right rear pockets of its jeans. A gray tab, with a different name, but it was enough for Levi's to sit up, examine the goods and promising legal action if Howies did not stop using these tabs on that part of its denim pants. No official link can be established, and this event will have barely registered in the fashion world, but nevertheless will have helped spread the word of Howies' existence. The Howies business flourished and was eventually acquired by The Timberland Company in 2006.

Let's rewind a further few years, prior to 1995. David Hieatt was then a successful copywriter for an advertising agency that some of us may have heard of, in passing..Saatchi & Saatchi. As much as we could say and write about this, we will for now stick to stating the obvious but no less relevant conclusion: pedigree does not come much better than this. David's background, as brief as we touch on it here, should tell you that this is a man of ideas - which, when he puts his mind to it, turn into projects like The Do Lectures, which are also well worth checking out.

So, back to the present, more or less. With Howies having been taken over, and Dewhirst having found cheaper labor in Morocco, Dave and Claire decided to kill several birds with one stone: start a denim label back in Cardigan and make the most of the locals' knowledge and skills to make the best possible

denim. It would be called Hiut, borrowing the first two letters of David and Claire's surname and the first two letters of the word 'utility'. Testament to his vision and drive is a notable answer he is known to have given when he was asked about the chances of survival for Hiut: "Well, Levi's started small too." Amen.

He announced his plans in the local paper and invited people to come in and apply for a job. Not long after, the sounds of purring sewing machines could he heard again in Cardigan.

The brand has two styles - for men only: slim fit and straight fit and it sources its raw, selvedge indigo denim from Japan, Kuroki denim to be precise. It also uses organic denim that it imports from Turkey. A world class pair jeans is Hiut’s next challenge and David is convinced they will succeed, and eventually have the Hiut name mentioned in the same breath as established players like Nudie and Acne.

Hiut has not just personal drivers and goals behind it, although David has admitted he wanted to make jeans again, and do them properly - solid quality jeans that become better friends the more you wear them. It's also aimed at reinvigorating the town of Cardigan, restoring its pride and involving some, if not all, of the four hundred locals with their talents and skills that they had honed over the course of decades at Dewhirst.

Someone tell the Queen to knight this man.

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BRAND FEATURE / Hiut Denim WRITTEN BY OLIVIER VAN DER HAGEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY HIUT DENIM

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CULTURE / Music

— Tenue De Nîmes Playlist —

BY RUDY ROSS THE WAR ON DRUGS

TERAKAFT If you follow popular upcoming music acts from northern Africa, the names Tinariwen and Terakaft will almost certainly sound familiar. My personal favorite is Mali’s Terakaft. With a most basic sound, just the strumming of two electric guitars, one bass, some light percussion and Tamashek lyrics, Terakaft creates an organic, psychedelic soundscape. These desert nomads, together with other Tamakesh formations, found a way to preserve their cultural heritage by creating a new music style: “Akh Issudar” or: desert blues. These songs create a free-flowing spirit of the mind that breaks down all language barriers.

A warm blanket of ‘Desert Rock’ envelops you while you close your eyes, listening to this music. You may see yourself wandering over the top of a dune.

I can't express how excited I am to see them playing live in Austin, TX at Austin Psych Fest this summer.

My Favourite Track: "Awa Adounia"

Philadelphia-based band The War on Drugs couldn't have made a better follow up to previous record 'Slave Ambient'. On the latter, writing and recording started in frontman Adam Granduciel's home, pretty much as a solo project at first. When you listen to to 'Lost In A Dream' however, it quickly demonstrates this really was a full band effort. After nearly eighteen months of touring nonstop, Granduciel had to come home from being on the road to deal with depression and paranoia. He found his medicine in hitting the homestudio once again and writing one hell of a record. It's no lie that 'Slave Ambient' had some great songs but it did not shy away from adding a few fillers. In contrast, Lost In A Dream is a fully matured classic rock album reminiscent of the best from Bruce Springsteen and Tom Petty. Had it been released in '83 it would've certainly hit the charts alongside Springsteen's 'Born In The USA’. It sounds like an ocean, with waves of sounds and layers.

Adam still plays with his former band member Kurt Vile, who left TWOD in the band’s early days.

"He and my roommate at the time worked at the Yards brewery together. And he was like: ‘Hey, you should come see my friend Kurt. He’s playing tonight at The Fire’. I was standing in the middle of the room and he was playing a Pavement cover, and I was like, “This dude rules.”

My Favourite Track: "Red Eyes"

THE HORRORS

MATTHEW E. WHITE Matthew E. White baptized his own record label, Spacebomb records, by releasing his debut album 'Big Inner' in August 2012. The New York Times called it "a dramatic pop-gospel record that hits extremes of the mood spectrum."

White founded Spacebomb records with the idea to have all production and recording done by a house band composed of White himself, bass player Cameron Ralston, and drummer Pinson Chanselle. For good measure, White added a pretty extensive horn and string section and even a full gospel choir that performs in old fashioned style, just as Staxx Records did with Booket-T and The MG's. They bring artists to White's recording attic and re-arrange songs in a package of swinging gospel, Motown 70s soul, New Orleans funk and road tripping Americana rock.

Listen to White's thirteen minute mantra called 'Brazos' and be prepared to wake up in complete ecstasy in an Alabama gospel church.

Formed in 2005, UK band The Horrors took inspiration from 60's Garage rock such as The Cramps, The Sonics and new wave heroes The Birthday Party and Joy Division. Over the years their songwriting evolved, with increased emphasis on melody and pop, leaving the noise behind.

Their mixture of gothic driven 80's new wave and big screen cinematic soundtracks of early ‘90s shoe gaze is one to fall in love with.

While still very new on the block, The Horrors very naturally progressed into the leaders of Britpop with an even brighter future ahead. May 5th will mark the release of their fourth full length album. If their new single 'I See You' is anything to go by, it may be their best yet. Moreover, if 60's girl pop and pairings such as Lee Hazlewood and Nancy Sinatra with a twist of psychedelics tickle your fancy, the album also features a duet in a track called "Cat's Eyes'. Here, singer Faris Badwan’s dark dramatic vocals accompany soprano vocalist Rachel Zeffira who also happens to be a multi-instrumentalist as well as composer. The result is a dream-pop duo that is a must listen!

LONDON GRAMMAR Having written and recorded their first track "Hey Now' as recently as mid2012, it donkey-punched all music critics upon release. Now, with a complete album to show the critics and cynics it was no coincidence, they really deliver the goods. "Hey Now' perfectly encapsulates London Grammar’s sound. Hardpressed to describe it, I would say it’s un-earthly, reverb loaded trip-hop with vocals that showcase extreme nuance and vulnerability as well as primitive power. I never take anybody's advice when they tell me (like I’m telling you now) that I need to check out a certain artist or group, but when my buddy Niels told me to sit down and listen to this, London Grammar vocalist Hannah Reid made an impression on me that left me jaw-dropped for a good while.

My Favourite Track: "Hey Now"

My Favourite Track: "I See You" My Favourite Track: "Brazos" 50

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CULTURE / Music

JUNGLE

VARIOUS ARTIST -

Not much is known about this mysterious seven-piece band. 'Busy Earnin', their latest release, really kicked open the doors to a sizzling success. Several showcases have gotten out of control because of people flooding in, desperate to catch a glimpse of them. Tickets for the group’s first London show were sold out in minutes. Lazy, hypnotic dance grooves, perfect for early Spring vibes. It's unbelievable that artists or groups (like London Grammar for instance) released their first material less than a year ago yet already received such widespread attention. It's difficult to say if it's the modern day hypebeast or truly a perfect gem. Whatever turns out to be the case, 'Busy Earnin' makes sure you'll survive the day with a confident smile on your face.

When indie label 'Light In The Attic' (The Black Angels / Serge Gainsbourg / D'Angelo) released a collaboration with French jazz label Heavenly Sweetness, I was beyond excited. Both labels stand for excellent quality of their wax-pressings and artwork. Selected and mixed by Mr. Ash, he digs deep into French jazz histoire here, bringing us ten pieces of never released, never previously heard gems. The good thing about compilations such as this is that, while you may have heard of some of the featured artists, you will be surprised by the rare versions or unreleased tracks that are included here too. This time he and Heavenly Sweetness chose to line up a broad range of jazz styles: from the late 60’s to early 90’s experimental, spiritual, Caribbean, modal, hard bops by famous or less famous names like François Tusques / Eddy Louiss / Octet de Dreux / Chêne Noir / Sylvain Krief / Noah Howard and Michel Roques. The latter, Roques, is my personal favorite track on this compilation. I can’t quite put my finger on what it is about the track that appeals to me so much but its Native American flavor is definitely a part of it, a remarkable mysterious sound, telling us a story we don't know the words to.

My Favourite Track: Michel Roques - "Ricardo"

YOUNG WONDER Chopping up samples and layering many unusual instruments done by beatmaker Ian Ring drew my attention right away, along with the voice of vocalist Rachel Koeman. Her smooth voice with a sweet timbre just seeps into your mind. It reminds me of Björk - without the weirdness of that Icelandic 'Sugar cube'. Young Wonder paints a portrait and leaves the listener to see many different faces and the beautiful stories behind them that trigger the imagination. I'm no big electronics lover but this experimental whirlwind of eclectic beats and pitch shifting vocal-harmonies is pretty infectious. "To You" gives me goose bumps. A hint of oriental folk sound floats on top of this track which leaves me right in the middle of a Zhang Yimou or Ang Lee movie, where miracles are credible and spirits and ghosts are present in everyday life.

THE MEN

My favourite Track: "To You"

I first heard The Men a few years ago, when I found myself in my friend Alex’s raunchy Brooklyn punk apartment. He took me in when I had no place to stay when I was in NYC for a few weeks. Those were great times that I will never forget.

He played The Men's first album ‘Immaculada’ which had just come out in early 2011. An album filled with angry, fuzzed out, riff laden songs.

I was blown away by this posthardcore attack. Two nights later they did a show at 538 Johnson, a place that was literally no more than a few punk kids having bands play in their living room. Let me tell you: that place lit up like nothing I'd ever seen before. Kids were climbing the walls and tearing down the place. This shit was on fire. These guys have been dropping records like bombs ever since. Every year sees a new record and 2013 even saw two releases.

Now, with five records under their belt and millions of miles of crushed concrete they emerged into a sound which resembles early Dinosaur Jr and even (Neil Young's) Crazy Horse.

Their latest record 'Tomorrow’s Hits' again has so many great, varied tracks it's unbelievable. Some of the fuzz has been replaced by folk guitar and bubblegum lullabies. But be aware, ‘Tomorrow’s Hits’ will kick you in the teeth if you don't watch out.

THE NIGHT BEATS This is early R&B, Texas Psychedelic Rock, Folk and southern soul rolled into one. Plus the grunge-drenched musical history that every Seattle band will succumb to. Lee Blackwell (twangy lead guitar, howling vocals), James Traeger (shaky drums) and Tarek Wegner (hypnotic bass) are Vincent Vega's and Mia Wallace's wet dream.

Sonic Bloom is a psych album with a nod to the 60's Nuggets era, as an extension of that very sound. Filled with hooks and loaded to the roof with twangy riffs. Blues stompers like "Satisfy Your Mind" are short and sweet like most of the tracks on their debut but overall the tunes are longer and spacier on this album. It's a much more adventurous LP than their first one and therefore one that will stand the test of time and makes it well worth checking out. The soulful psych-garage trio seems determined to take over the world with Sonic Bloom. They’re constantly on tour and never hold back on stage. Their inspired and insanely catchy new record is released

by Austin’s Psych Fest label, which will only further feed the swelling buzz they've been enjoying so far.

My favourite fuzz - "Love Ain't Strange, Everything Else Is"

My Favourite Track: "Another Night"

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PHOTO REPORT / Japan

TEXT: MENNO VAN MEURS PHOTOGRAPHY: JOACHIM BAAN

If we had only listened to René and all those who visited the great country of Japan before us, we would have known upfront our travel schedule was ‘ambitious’ to say the least. In April last year Joachim, René and I were off to visit the Mecca of denim for a week. Even our very first moments in Tokyo were intense. The minute we arrived at Tokyo Central Railway Station we boarded the craziest city transfer we ever experienced: the Shinkansen or ‘Bullet Train’ to the town of Kojima in Okayama province. We knew when we booked our seats on the train back at home that it would take us to Japan’s denim province in less than four hours. But what we did not realize at the time was what kind of distance we would cover in those measly three and a half hours. If you look at the map and figure out it is a trip of 676 kilometers you will feel differently about the indicated travel time to get to Okayama - especially considering the fact we would stay in Kojima less than 24 hours.

After the Bullet Train to Okayama we took a local train to get us closer to the east coast. The city of Kojima was our final stop that day, which would take us roughly another thirty minutes. By the time we arrived at the Setouchi Kojima Hotel it was well past midnight. Only early next morning did we see with our own eyes the astonishing view this hotel offered us. Because the hotel is built on a hill, it provides a perfect view over the Seto Inland Sea. We tried to take it all in over a quick rice breakfast and then had to get moving again because we were headed for a certain blue paradise.

Long before we took this trip to Okayama we had been invited by the Manabe family to visit their Rampuya, Momotaro Jeans and Japan Blue factories. Somehow it took us four years to accept their generous offer.

The visit started at Rampuya HQ where I literally lost it, standing in between approximately ten thousand pieces of fabric hanging in their main showroom. It was our first physical introduction to the company’s enormous archive and the huge range of high quality fabrics that the company is known for.

After selecting new fabrics for the upcoming collaborations with Momotaro we entered the secret treasure room: the dead stock building, located at the back of an old building close to the sea. Rampuya basically lost us for two hours here. The inside looked like an old garage and was stacked with rolls of dead stock fabric. We left the guys asking themselves if we had gone insane as we climbed the piles of left-over denim, screaming every time we found the next must-do selvage.

We then went to see the sewing and washing factories. We expected a fairly large factory but what we encountered was actually quite the opposite. The jeans were sewn and/or washed in small factories by people that all had their own specialty. There was a specialist for natural indigo, a workspace for artificial indigo and a sewing factory that could only sew a limited number of jeans per day. All this perfectly illustrated the unique devotion to detail and craftsmanship at the Momotaro Jeans family.

The last stop of this crazy 24 hours denim trip was one of Rampuya's weaving factories. The location of this store / factory ironically felt somewhat American. The plant stands just off a large road that bisects the country side. The image that keeps popping up in my mind is that of the famous wooden hand loom, scored by the intense noise of today’s denim weaving machinery. To actually be working in this space must be maddening because the violent sound of the machines was still ringing in our ears three days after our return to The Netherlands. So with a weaving facility that can only produce eighty centimeters of fabric in three days, these noisy monsters provided an interesting glimpse into the past, when they were still state of the art. We look back on this trip with great respect for the whole Rampuya operation. The company not only managed to incorporate nearly the entire denim food chain into their business, but they also devoted themselves to making new, non-denim fabrics. More importantly, Mr. Manabe and his team found a way to reproduce premium American denim and really test it to its limits. Therefore we believe Momotaro and Japan Blue are part of the new revolution in denim technology.

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PHOTO REPORT / Japan

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PHOTO REPORT / Japan

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PHOTO REPORT / Japan

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PHOTO REPORT / Japan

After three days travel and a commute of a little over 1,200 km in Japan’s Shinkansen Bullet Train, we finally arrived in Tokyo. We found a perfect hotel on the border of Shibuya, close to Yoyogi Park. Now, Tokyo is the kind of city that swallows you up. Without extensive preparation you will be lost, Bill Murray-style. Let me just say that you can barely put a value on time here, because the city is simply so huge. But lucky bastards that we are, some of our beloved friends in Tokyo helped us out and made it possible to wander around without being lost in translation all the time.

With only three days to explore, this last leg of our trip could have become a true nightmare had it not been for these friends of ours who helped us manage our time wisely.

So rather than explaining the images shown here I would like to take the opportunity to say thank you to Michiya Suzuki, General Manager at Red Wing Japan, who provided us with a first day that we will never forget: a day filled with vintage, boots, and a visit to the craziest shoe shop on earth: Hopes More Boot Store. Secondly our good friend Anneke Beerkens, Cultural Anthropologist at the University of Amsterdam, a Japanista by heart, showed us some of the most incredible back-streets of the city as well as suburbs that we would have never reached on our own. Lastly we thank our friends at Big John for a lovely night out and Kei Sato at Nigel Cabourn for his warm welcome to the gorgeous Nakameguro neighborhood. Enjoy the images - and book a flight right after.

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PHOTO REPORT / Japan

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PHOTO REPORT / Japan

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PHOTO REPORT / Japan

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FEATURE / The Jean School

The Jean School WRITTEN BY MENNO VAN MEURS PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS TUKKER

I still remember the phone call I received back in early 2012. It was James Veenhof, asking us if we could put together a crash-course in ‘denimology' for him and the rest of the team of the newly founded Jean School. I guess Rene never expected to meet one of the few teachers he had back in the days when he still attended school. So besides an inspiring denim vibe on the day when we presented our crash course, Rene was able to show one of his former teachers that he did alright for himself to say the least. What was more important about this session was that we saw it would actually happen - and soon: an Amsterdam-based Jean School would open its doors come September. Rene and I were both equally excited and jealous. We immediately understood that this would become the coolest school anyone could ever hope to attend. The mild pang of jealousy was because we never got to go to a school dedicated to the very stuff that is so close to our hearts.

The Jean School is a unique three year course that prepares its students to become denim developers. The school has two primary focus points: craftsmanship and durability while the blue print of the educational programme is composed of design, development, production and ultimately selling jeans.

There was a good reason to choose ROC van Amsterdam, an institute for Vocational Education, as a partner for this unusual denim traineeship: over the past few years, Amsterdam became a hotspot for various industry leaders like Levi’s, G-star, Tommy Hilfiger and Denham. Add to that the booming denim industry as a whole with a growing market and there is an automatic demand for well educated denim aficionado’s.

One of the most remarkable characteristics of the Jean School is its collaborative nature. The partnership between HTNK Fashion, ROC van Amsterdam, House of Denim and several denim companies creates education based on the latest trends and innovations.

During the three years at Jean School, students learn about denim basics and the jeans life cycle and get to know the denim food chain. The Jean School is all about internships, external projects at various brands, factories and laundries and there are many guest lectures by industry influentials connected to a certain subject. Previous projects have included the creation of the ultimate denim shirt for Scotch & Soda and the rebirth of the G-star five-pocket legend: the 3301. These, and more were all re-designed by Jean School students and presented to the companies' denim heavy weights.

The current first year students are doing a Retail Internship right now. According to Mira Copini, coördinator and co-initiator at Jean School, people need to know what is going on in the stores to be able to design something that will sell. Simultaneously, the Jean School’s second year students are developing a denim line based on designs of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. The results will be presented at the first European Kingpins denim show during Amsterdam Denim Days.

All this is a given for people who live here. What do you do, however, if you would love to attend this school but you live abroad? The Jean School has this covered too: it is developing a special course ideally suited for those who live abroad but are eager to enroll at Jean School. It is scheduled to launch in February 2015.

Meet Jacques Voß, aspiring denim doctor at Jean School and currently attending a retail internship at the Tenue de Nîmes' Elandsgracht store.

www.jeanschool.com —

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FEATURE / The Jean School

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BRAND SPECIAL /Lee 125 Year Anniversary

Self Made Man For cowboys, workers, and contemporary creators, Henry David Lee’s iconic denim brand celebrates 125 yearsof getting things done..

Henry David Lee was a doer. He created things: factories, businesses and iconic denim workwear that would endure for 125 years, the go-to brand for blue collar workers, cowboys and the contemporary creator. Not bad for a man who started life with next to nothing.

As an 11-year-old, he had saved enoughmoney to attend a private school. By 16 – in between night shifts as a hotel clerk – Lee had thought up a clever commission scheme, charging travelling salesmen a percentage from sales gained using his local knowledge. He saved $1,200 in just two years, set up a business selling knitting machines, and soon acquired his first company: the Central Oil Company of Ohio, a wholesale distributor of Kerosene.

Lee was on the up.

In 1889 he moved to Salina, Kansas to start another new business making and selling fine foods, called the H. D. Lee Mercantile Company.

A lifeline for the towns and communities across Kansas and beyond, H. D. Lee Mercantile fed the workers of the west – the cowboys and ranch hands, farmers and cattle drivers, the railroad men and factory crews – the backbone of America. To Lee, it simply made sense to dress them

1917

1911

1st national advertising campaign H. D. Lee Mercantile Company runs a series of full-page advertisements for Union-Alls in The Saturday Evening Post. This is the first national ad campaign for a workwear apparel company in the country.

In 1911, Lee set out to do just that.

With overalls, worker jackets and jeans he founded an empire on a simple premise: to create durable, high quality clothing for doers, just like him..

Unhappy with the quality and inconsistent delivery of workwear from Eastern suppliers, Lee decides his company can do it better. H. D. Lee Mercantile Company opens a workwear manufacturing factory and begins producing its first overalls, jackets and dungarees.

1913 THE UNION ALL

The all-in-one that all at once made Lee® a household name.

A button-up one-piece for auto mechanics, train men and farmers, the Union-All hit the shelves in 1913 – and made Lee® a household name.

Already producing jackets, dungarees and the tough-as-nails Bib Overall (another hard wearing denim classic), it was no-nonsense Union-All that became the go-to for the blue collar workers of the American West, and became the US military’s official fatigue uniform in the First World War.

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BRAND SPECIAL /Lee 125 Year Anniversary

1920

LITTLE BUDDY LEE

Meet Buddy, the pint-sized Lee ambassador with door stop eyelashes and short back-and-sides.

Created in 1920 as an advertising mascot, Buddy Lee debuted in the window of the Dayton Company department store on Nicollet Avenue, Minneapolis, wearing an authentic triple-stitch H. D. Lee overall and his trademark wry smile. He soon reached celebrity status, and could be spotted dressed as a cowboy, a deliveryman, railroad worker or gas station attendant in store. By ‘49, Buddy was sold as a 13-inch plastic toy, and by the‘60s, Buddy was the second highest-selling doll in the US. Buddy, we salute you. Today Buddy Lee is a collectable item.

1921 1926 GOING LOCO

In 1921, H. D. Lee went Loco. One of Lee®’s first designs, the railroad jacket – called the Loco – was made with the rail worker in mind.

Rendered in tough, 8oz denim, with a three-button cuff, the Loco had wide slanted hip pockets and loosecut arms for laying track, dragging sleepers, and hammering rivets.

Following the invention of the zip fly, Lee® introduced the first denim jacket with a zip closure at the end of the 1920s, known as the 91. You don’t mess with perfection.

ALL ZIPPED UP

Everything starts somewhere: Lee® invented the zip-up jean.

In 1926, Lee introduced the zipper to its cowboy-ready jeans. Adding zipper technology to Lee’s iconic Cowboy Pants – which now had two versions: 101B (B for Button) and 101Z (Z for Zipper) – Lee started to offer tailored sizing and inseam.

1931

RIDER ON THE STORM

The rebirth of Lee's iconic denim jacket, storm-proofed.

A cropped cowboy jacket with easyto-access slanting breast pockets (for horse riders to reach inside the pocket with the opposite hand), and a wide waistband that would not fold upwards. But in 1933 Lee launched one of its most famous pieces: the Storm Rider Jacket. It was a winter version of the Slim and featured thick, Alaskan blanket lining and a windproof corduroy-collar.

1939

THE STEAM ROLLER Flatten it! Lee's tough product testing knows no bounds.

The H. D. Lee Mercantile Company is the US’ largest maker of workwear with sales at $6.4 million. To test Lee’s dedication to quality and durability, Robert ‘Believe it or Not’ Ripley devises a fantastical assault course for a pair of Jelt Denim overalls. A 5-tonne steam roller drives over them (the buttons hold their shape), the overall’s are dragged 26-miles across rough concrete (the denim survives), and a man stands in the pockets of another (the stitching stays secure).

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BRAND SPECIAL /Lee 125 Year Anniversary

1941 1943 RIPPED AND REPINNED

How a fan dancer, a rodeo star and a needle and thread helped invent the slim-fit Lee Riders.

In 1941, Exotic Fan dancer and actress Sally Rand (famous for her ostrich feather fan dance and balloon bubble routine) ripped out the seams of a pair of jeans at a gathering of cowboys and Lee execs at Kansas City’s Muehlebach Hotel. She repinned them onto her husband, rodeo champion and stuntman Turk Greenough, into the tighter cut he prefers. The new tight-fitting Lee Riders – scoring a full-page ad in LIFE magazine – are the best fitting cowboy pants on the market. They became Lee’s most popular product.

Thanks, Sally.

In recognition of the company’s increasing apparel business, the H. D. Lee Mercantile Company changes its name to the H. D. Lee Company, Inc.

1944

A SUBTLE CASE OF CATTLE (RE) BRANDING How a fan dancer, a rodeo star and a needle and thread helped invent the slim-fit Lee® Riders.

The Lazy “S” becomes the official Lee® back pocket. One story says the “S” resembles the horns of a longhorn steer and another says it represents the shape of the back of an occupied saddle. This replaced the Arcuate symbol that had been in use since the introduction of Cowboy Pants in 1926.

1946 HAIR ON HIDE

How a wriggling steer inspired Lee's leather patch work.

An evolution of the Hair-on-Hide label, the Twitch label is based on the same concept however, instead of a branded patch with the hair still on the hide, the patch is smooth leather branded with a wavy Lee logo. The “twitch” is meant to symbolize a steer’s twitch when branded. In reality, a steer does not twitch so much to affect the brand, but the logo had been institutionalized and the Twitch patch remains in use through 2000. In 1946, patches are branded one at a time by hand. Fifty years later, the patches are produced on a Schwabe leather patch machine that is capable of cutting and branding 50,000 patches per day..

1954 1961 THE WILD ONES

How denim became the unofficial uniform for the teenage rebel..

In 1954, James Dean – in his firs film role – starred in Steinbeck’s East of Eden, and Marlon Brando played a leather-capped biker outlaw in The Wild One: two troublesome young men, clad in denim. The unofficial uniform of the teenage rebel, the simple pair of jeans began to transition from their classic workwear roots to popular culture with ‘50s pin-up James Dean wearing Lee®’s101Z on set – and off.

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HOLLYWOOD’S GOLDEN GIRL

Pale rider: Hollywood's golden girl and the Lee jacket she loved.

Lee bursts onto the big screen in iconic movies that help create teen culture. From Rebel Without a Cause to Giant, matinee idols dress in the authentic denim brand, including a certain blonde bombshell who dons a Storm Rider jacket for her role in The Misfits.

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BRAND SPECIAL /Lee 125 Year Anniversary

1962 LEESURE

The Clothes You Need for the Life You Lead.

By 1962, Lee focused on the burgeoning casual market, adding the promise of fashion to its longstanding quality guarantee. High-school and college students were targeted with national ads for Leesure – Lee’s trim, skin tight, silhouettes. In 1964, Lee’s stretch-pants and Lee-Prest permanent pressed slacks (marketed as the first no-iron slacks) became cult buys.

1969 1970 1963

Lee’s rides off to the continent, bringing its own brand of denim know-how with it.

In 1963 Lee goes to Europe. The first move from Lee outside the US was to St - Nicholas in Belgium. The first company in Belgium was called the H. D. Lee of Belgium.

1973

Well hello there! Lee’s eye for the ladies sees the creation of Miss Lee.

Lee begins a new chapter with big business movers and shakers at the helm.

In an effort that will leverage growth and move the H. D. Lee Company, Inc. toward becoming part of the largest apparel manufacturing alliance in the world, Lee agrees to consolidate with Corporation of Wyomissing, Pennsylvania, producer of Vanity Fair intimate apparel, and owner of Berkshire International and Kay Windsor, manufacturer of women’s dresses. M.O. Lee (no relation to H. D. Lee) is the president and chairman of VF.

THE FASHION ERA Lee shifts focus from the workwear business and begins catering the fashion cycles Which become more and more short lived as the decade progresses.

New fads in overalls, from college students wearing them as ski wear to girls wearing them cut off at the knees, drives Lee to produce its first line of fashion overalls. Available in blue denim, stripes and geometric designs, the new overall designs are accompanied by a collection of coordinating shirts.

1977

RAINBOW PANTS Lee’s Rainbow jeans were introduced in 1977 to use up the factory’s surplus coloured thread. Sales went so well that Lee had to order in more coloured thread to satisfy demand.

1979

1982

Focusing on every lifestyle coast-to-coast

Ready to rock - Lee invents the classic denim treatment.

LEE FITS AMERICA Ranging from western wear to workwear to casual wear, and an ambition to fit the entire family, Lee develops the new tag-line “Lee Fits America” Living up to this slogan, a youth wear line for boys and girls is introduced as an extension of mens and womens products.

Lee pioneers an all-new fit for women under the Ms. Lee label. The welcoming response from women to the new line of jeans made especially for her quickly places Lee in the limelight as the leading producer of jeans for women.

STONEWASH

Sending that first pair of stiff, raw denim jeans to be pre-washed at a Kansas City laundromat in 1973 spurs a multi-million dollar venture in jeans: wet process. In search of more creative finishes and an even softer hand, experiments lead to the tumbling of jeans with everything from golf balls and sneakers to tires and rocks. The desired effect is finally achieved with pumice stones.

By 1982, “stonewashed” jeans are introduced as part of the core line. Lee also addresses the finish frenzy with Dress Blues, jeans made of denim that retains its deep indigo color

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BRAND SPECIAL /Lee 125 Year Anniversary

1996

Lee National Denim Day, established to benefit the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation.

The result of an internal team effort to find a cause that is of concern to both Lee consumers and employees. After extensive research, the answer became clear: breast cancer. Lee National Denim Day works on the premise that if everyone contributes a little, a lot can be accomplished. Lee hires a celebrity spokesperson to promote the day and spread breast cancer awareness. Companies that choose to participate ask each employee to give a $5 donation.

2011

2009

BLUE LABEL

The Lee 101 line pays tribute to over100 years of craftmanship and quality guarantee.

Premium Quality Denim by Lee Lee’s premium quality denim strand

Only using premium fabrics and selvage denims. Those selvage fabrics are produced on the very same looms, now exported to Japan, that created the originals in the U.S until 50 years ago.

Using handpicked European mills, Italian Comfort Stretch denim with subtle stretch qualities and a great recovery, and clever, eco-logic treatments using minimal chemicals, dyes and water. Exceptional denim with considered detailing: blue washed leather Lee branding, H. D. Lee’s original open top button and hardware, and overlock stitching – in a pop of bright blue – hidden on the inseam.

2010 2012 STRETCH DELUXE

MOVE YOUR LEE

This is Stretch Deluxe, Lee’s premium quality denim strand.

A fine gauge Italian denim with superstretch powers that snaps backwith perfect recovery, Stretch Deluxe underlines a range of new and classic cuts, washes and finishes with an ultra-flattering quality, and a refined weave for distinct feel-appeal.

We’ve been crafting denim for over a century, so we know how important the fit of your jean is There’s only one thing more important and that’s what you do when you are wearing them. The Move your Lee campaign has one thing beating constantly at its heart: Movement

2014

CELEBRATION 125 YEARS!

Outfitting the US military through two world wars, to the tough working classes of America, the burgeoning teen phenomenon of the 50s – via James Dean in East of Eden – to dressing the bell-bottomed drop-outs of the '60s and '70s: little has changed. Lee remains a master of fit and function, although these days the enduring brand is more likely to be worn by contemporary creators than rodeo stars. 125 years of dressing people who live life with a purpose.

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INTERVIEW / Essentials

Essentials

ACCORDING TO MARIETTE HOITINK Owner/Founder/Managing Director

by HTNK Fashion recruitment & consultancy INTERVIEW BY MENNO VAN MEURS PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS TUKKER

We at Tenue de Nîmes do not believe anyone needs particular brands and logo's to define him or herself, or to have them make statements on their behalf. That does not mean we do not acknowledge that we all have particular brands with which we identify, or even feel a kinship with. In particular specific items of clothing that we will always pack, whether we're off to Paris for a day or two, or taking a longer break in Bali. We like to characterize these as Tenue de Nîmes essentials. Think of my favorite slup-yarn 1930s T shirt by Levi's Vintage, or a pair of rigid Double RL jeans, and Red Wing 877 boots. I could not imagine taking a trip anywhere without these simple treasures.

For Journal de Nîmes we are writing a recurring column about our friends' essentials, people who inspire us.

JEANS Work : C. Cruden pants by Sammie Cruden, Dutch denim designer living in Rotterdam and best kept secret.

Makes jeans that lift your butt.

Play: My totally ragged, worn out Diesel Black Gold denim pants, boyfriend style at the top, slim fit at the bottom, soft like sweatpants.

SHOES I love high heels by Costume National or AF van der Vorst but hardly ever wear them. Mostly it’s Brogue type shoes or sneakers.

TOP Traditional men's shirts in white (or black or chambray, or denim or.. or...)

WATCH Would love to have a vintage 1964 watch - the year I was born.

DRESS Lost & Found printed scarfs are the best buy ever, I love multi-functional stuff that I can wear as a scarf, a dress, a skirt, wrapped around my head or use as a towel when I'm lying on the beach.

TEE Tee: American Vintage t-shirts, smooth cotton, black as usual.

JACKET Vintage Burberry coat - love my budget designer findings JEWELLERY Custom made rose gold bracelets with blood coral by Marichelle, each inscribed with a personal message.

JOURNAL DE NÎMES / Nº 10 AMSTERDAM, CITY OF BLUE, SPRING-SUMMER 2014

SOCKS American Apparel, black with white stripes.

PERFUME During the day: “A Quiet Morning” from Miller et Bertaux.

It's dedicated to eternal India.

Mysterious and unusual but still feels fresh. Every morning I look at the bottle and it makes my day.

At night: Oud Shamash, The different Company, From earth to heaven. A spiritual journey to the heart of the Far East. A vibrant and bewitching fragrance, absolute killer.

TRAVEL BAG A vintage Bag that I found in Maastricht. Travels with me all over the world.

STATIONERY A personalized Moleskine with a dedication by Dutch illustrator Petra Lunenburg. I’m a big fan of how she portrays women: strong yet fragile.

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Pastoe x Tenue de Nîmes SOON

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SUMMER SHOOT / Somerset Dreams

Somerset Dreams PHOTOGRAPHER BY MATILDA TEMPERELY

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SUMMER SHOOT / Somerset Dreams

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SUMMER SHOOT / Somerset Dreams

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SUMMER SHOOT / Somerset Dreams

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SUMMER SHOOT / Somerset Dreams

STYLIST: ANAT DYCHTWALD HAIR AND MAKEUP ARTIST: DANIELLE OGILVIE MODEL: HANNAH DODD AT STORM MODELS

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BRAND FEATURE /Red Wing Shoes - Postman

Red Wing Shoes — Postman —

Red Wing proudly presents five new Postman shoes. Red Wing used the original postman shoe, style no.101 that dates back as far as 1954 as inspiration. This model has dependably served countless postmen with their basic, yet sturdy and comfortable design. Red Wing does not like to reinvent the wheel, but has made some improvements, to even better the experience of wearing these classic shoes.

Expect no added frills, but five variations, while safeguarding the 101’s enduring quality. The new Postmen shoes are built using the same leather upper as the original, including a dog tail, blind eyelets and a Goodyear Welt. The new Postman comes in five colors. To begin with there are three oil-tanned leathers to choose from: Oro-Iginal, Charcoal Rough & Tough and Amber Harness. The other two are Suede Rough out leathers in Olive Mohave and Blueberry Muleskinner.

As tradition has it, the new Postman shoes are crafted from Premium Red Wing leathers, made at Red Wing Shoe’s very own S.B. Foot tannery. The cushion crepe outsole gives these boots as much comfort as the 101, allowing for the longer walks along sidewalks everywhere.

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NEXT ISSUE / Fahrad Samari Denim Girls

NEXT ISSUE PREVIEW

FARHAD SAMARI DENIM GIRLS

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THE TENUE DE NÎMES ARCHIVE AN EXHIBITION BY DIRK KIKSTRA WWW.TENUEDENIMES.COM