The of Berks but Instead of “Norm!” its “John!” By Susan N. Denaro, Esquire
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01 West is a classic neighborhood bar and restaurant evocative of the bar in the classic sitcom Cheers: when one enters the newly remodeled watering spot, the big bar is the main star of the place and when John Hoffert strolls in, he gets a greeting reminiscent of Norm’s. The only thing missing is the cigar store Indian standing guard.
My recent January night there started out very relaxed. The table tent list of wines by the glass had some fun options, but the nice mix of beers on tap tempted me more. I selected the Breckinridge Vanilla Porter and was pleasantly surprised that the vanilla undertones did not make it the least bit sweet. Instead, it was creamy, fullbodied and satisfying. I’d like to say that it was a good accompaniment to the entrée I chose, but it was gone before the main course arrived.
rice dotted with peas and another of diced avocado simply tossed with fresh lime juice and sea salt was all that was needed to complete the perfect grouper meal. It was the first time I ate grouper and watching Bob cook it was dinner theater at its best. Having already had a grouper dinner I knew I could never beat, my expectations for the grouper are never too high, particularly in Berks County where it is a rare find on a menu. The 201 West description of its tempura battered grouper
A friend in Florida used to meet the fishing boat and whisk meaty grouper filets home to cook them within minutes of their arriving on dry land. He would rub them with his own blend of mystery spices and sear them on a 500-degree white-hot cast iron skillet set on a side burner of his grill. From there, he would submerge them in an olive and tomato sauce and bake the Honduran dish. A side of saffron yellow
The waitress made a great suggestion when she recommended the fries to accompany the grouper. They were good, but after I dipped them in the smooth mango-habanero salsa that accompanied the quesadilla special a member of our party ordered, the fries were spectacular. I actually think the grouper would have been more memorable had it been served with that salsa, as the fruity spice would have brightened and lightened the dish. The vegetable medley of the day was totally forgettable, but to be honest, no one orders a plate of fish and chips for the side of vegetables. My spouse ordered the dish Jill recommended, and after he tried one bite of mine, joked that he was glad he was properly trained to always take her advice. I found his dish, which featured chunks of chicken and artichokes in a buttery sauce with lots of parmesan cheese, to be tasty and very rich but the chicken was slightly over-cooked. I will never know if it was just that bite that was over-baked as he would not let me have a second.
The house-made salad dressings are all great but the homemade rolls were the star of the salad course. For those willing to eat carbohydrates in early January before completely abandoning any New Year’s diet resolutions, trust me when I say the rolls are worth the guilt. Although I chose to dine at 201 West on the suggestion of Jill Koestel to have the chicken and artichoke hearts entrée, the description of the crispy cilantro grouper dish caught my eye. I learned a long time ago that a trip to the smelly wharf was worth it if the fresh catch of the day was grouper.
been any non-descript fried white fish.
served with a drizzle of cilantro aioli sounded too tempting to pass up. The house-cut French fries I ordered sealed the deal and meant that plate was really more about the fish and chips experience than the grouper. When the dish arrived piping hot and boasted a large, evenly golden brown offering, my first reaction was so far, so good. Then I tried the fish and was disappointed at the greasiness of it, which made little sense as the tempura batter did not seem soggy. A slathering of the extra aioli I requested after that first bite covered the fried taste, but sadly the flavor of the grouper was lost. For all intents and purposes, it just tasted like it could have
The tables at 201 West were pretty full and there were clearly a lot of regular diners in the restaurant, a sign that my experience was not typical. In fact, a friend recently posted on her Facebook page about a wonderful dinner she had there and the three family members with me all enjoyed their meals. I have always admired the commitment of the owners to supporting the annual Good Thyme for Life fundraiser for the Co-County Wellness Services. They have also started hosting wine dinners that look tempting. I plan to go back another time, perhaps for one of the wine dinners. As for my continuing search for another great grouper dinner, I still say that when my ship comes in I hope the fresh catch on board is grouper.
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