Jewellery Focus September 2012
Jewellery Focus is a magazine dedicated to all retailers in the jewellery trade. Targeting high street stores, this magazine caters for companies who want their new products to shine out in the crowded marketplace.
June 2012 2012 September www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265 ISSN 2046-7265 FOCUS © Chamilia Europe Ltd, 2012. All rights reserved. MADE WITH SWAROVSKI® ELEMENTS. SWAROVSKI® is a registered trademark. www.chamilia.com IJL 2012 issue: Plan for your visit with this month’s show guide A selection of awe-inspiring statement jewellery designs, guaranteed to turn heads Also inside: a retail security special, featuring comment from industry experts editor's letter Jewellery FOCUS Editor Louise Hoffman firstname.lastname@example.org Editorial Assistant Callum Gildart email@example.com Deputy Production Editor Lewis Bowes firstname.lastname@example.org Reporter Emily Northcott email@example.com Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith firstname.lastname@example.org Deputy Group Advertisement Manager Julie-Ann Kwok email@example.com Deputy Advertisement Manager Michele Rogers firstname.lastname@example.org Senior Sales Executive Lauren King email@example.com Sales Executive Cally Harrison firstname.lastname@example.org Accounts Maureen Scrivener email@example.com Customer Services 01206 767 797 firstname.lastname@example.org Contributing writers: Alan McInnes, Brad Huisken, Julie Burns, Lindsey Straughton, Michael Hoare, Neil Matthews, Sam Willoughby, Stephen Murphy, Suki Singh Design Arthouse Publishing Solutions email@example.com In support of: Editor’s letter A t the end of July I was delighted to be invited to the Tresor Paris RAW Awards ceremony held at Clerkenwell House in Hatton Garden. The competition had been set up by the brand specifically for Holts Academy students, and required them to submit an original design for a bracelet, utilising the raw materials that already exist in the Tresor Paris range. As Lilian Lousky, chief designer at Tresor Paris and head judge of the competition, remarked, the standard of the entries was extremely high, with the students taking into account the brand’s audience and style, whilst adding their own unique twists based on specific inspirations and design development. The worthy winner was Rebecca Boatfield, whose design comprised nine pyramids in magnetite (or similar finish) for a punk flavour, as well as four magnetite beads and black cord. These kinds of awards programmes are tremendously meaningful, as they not only focus on the future of our industry, but also provide an incentive, practice and a boost to those who will eventually be tasked with maintaining and increasing its success. Furthermore, they independently review and reward the effort and achievement of a group of talented and motivated, yet refreshingly modest individuals. Before I sign off for the month, I’d just like to take the opportunity to thank all those who have followed us on Twitter so far! Do find us @Jewellery_Focus if you haven’t already, and keep up to date with the latest news headlines and developments. We’d love to receive your tweets about the magazine too – just today I had some lovely feedback from Stephen Einhorn about his Designer of the Month interview, which appeared in our August issue. Thanks Stephen! For those who are attending International Jewellery London (IJL) this month, whether as an exhibitor or visitor, I hope you have a profitable and motivational visit. Do stop by at the Jewellery Focus stand (i128) and say hello! Jewellery Focus ISSN 2046-7265 is published monthly by: Mulberry Publications Ltd, Wellington House, Butt Road, Colchester CO3 3DA Tel: 01206 767 797 Fax: 01206 767 532 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers. Jewellery FOCUS This month’s cover features CHAMILIA Founded in New York City in 2002, Chamilia was launched on the premise of putting jewellery design into the hands of the consumer. Now, with over three years of trading under its belt in the UK and Europe, Chamilia says it continues to grow through the retail partnerships it has nurtured. With four new launches every year, the brand’s new products feature 14 carat gold, .925 sterling silver, crystal Swarovski Elements and Italian Murano glass. Chamilia also has an exclusive Disney Collection. For further information, please contact the company using the details below. Information: 0844 811 2142, firstname.lastname@example.org or IJL stand E131 September 2012 3 CONTENTS 4 Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 FEATURES Head turners 22 Past, present and future 28 IJL 2012 show guide 33 A splash of colour 52 Fighting against crime 57 Help your customers become the centre of attention with this selection of aweinspiring statement piece designs Louise Hoffman focuses on the vintage trend, finding out how it has developed since it rose to prominence several years ago, and viewing some of the latest collections Find out more about this year’s International Jewellery London event in this handy show guide, which includes a full exhibitor list, floor plan, and product highlights The BJA presents a selection of inspiring coloured stone jewellery from some of its member designer-makers – many of which will be exhibiting at IJL In this retail security special, several experts in the field provide comment and advice on protecting your business from criminal activity 28 22 33 52 57 REGULARS Roundup The latest news from the industry 6 66 A day at the Office 77 Face to a name 18 This month we hear from the laser marking team, who have been honing their skills over the years to develop and perfect the hallmarking and precious metal decoration process Letters to the editor 20 Selling 80 Sam Willoughby 50 Industry data 82 Voice on the highstreet 90 Get acquainted with new and existing industry representatives Three readers share their thoughts on insurance claims procedures – an issue raised in July’s Jewellery Focus For the IJL 2012 show guide, Sam speaks with some of the industry experts who will be hosting free seminars at the forthcoming event Taking stock A bumper selection of new offerings from the industry Watch focus Trends in timepieces 66 74 There are many ways that you can create desire of ownership during the demonstration stage of the sale, as Brad Huisken explains John Doble, owner of Doble Jewellers and Pona Pero, Torbay 6 ROUNDUP In brief RJC certifies four members The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that four of its members have achieved certification for meeting the criteria set by its Member Certification System. Hublot, Historic Originals, G Diam BVBA and Esteem Diamond Systems Pvt Limited have all been certified by the RJC for meeting the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards set by the RJC’s accreditation system. CEO of Switzerland-based watchmaker Hublot, Ricardo Guadalupe, said: “Hublot is proud to have obtained RJC Certification because when our focus is often on the search for productivity and profitability, we must also respect a certain number of rules and values.” Theo Fennell’s gpstudio designed ‘micro-concept’ store opens gpstudio, the retail design consultancy, has completed a boutique concept store with jeweller Theo Fennell. As reported by Jewellery Focus last month, the store, dubbed a micro-concept, will occupy a two-floor space in Burlington Arcade. Fennell’s store has been designed as a story-telling space to show the development of his work from inspiration to completion. Xiao Zi Yang wins Swarovski Elements ITS Competition Xiao Zi Yang has won the 11th edition of the Swarovski Elements supported International Talent Support (ITS) competition. The competition, held in Trieste, Italy, is designed to give visibility and support to talented students of jewellery, fashion and accessory design and photography. Shanghai-born Yang was selected as victor above nine other emerging designers for her final piece. Each designer was tasked to incorporate Swarovski crystal elements into their pieces. Victorious Yang received a cash prize of 10,000 euros and a six-month internship at Swarovski’s headquarters in Austria. Students take centre stage at Tresor Paris RAW Awards Celebrating the work of budding new jewellery designers, the Tresor Paris RAW Awards were held at Clerkenwell House on 31 July. The RAW Awards were the culmination of a competition set up for Holts Academy students to create an original bracelet design from natural raw materials that already exist in the Tresor Paris range. Rebecca Boatfield was chosen as the winner of the competition by the judging panel, which comprised Daily Mirror fashion editor Didi Danso; head designer at Tresor Paris Lilian Lousky; and Holts Academy tutor Rose Williams, whilst fellow students Aimee Crockford and Saima Husain took second and third place, respectively. Tresor Paris is now producing Rebecca’s winning design for potential retail. Judge Lilian Lousky remarked: “All of the entrants did brilliantly and the level of work put in was amazing, but there could, obviously, only be one winner.” Louise Hoffman, editor of Jewellery Focus, who also attended the ceremony, added: “All three winners were so genuinely excited to have been selected by such an esteemed judging panel, and such a well known brand. This will certainly give them a boost as they set out in their careers.” Tissot opens its highest boutique Tissot opened its most altitudinous boutique in celebration of its partner, the Jungfrau Railway’s, centenary on the Swiss National Day (1 August). Reaching the Jungfrau summit boutique promises to be one of the most captivating shopping journeys it’s possible to take, as the railway ride allows for enjoyment of the breathtaking panoramic sights of the surrounding mountains. Once reached, the boutique offers an expansive modern interior, which offsets matte surfaces against glossy ones to “stimulate and soothe in rapid succession.” Trollbeads launches ‘People’s Bead’ collection Danish charm bead jewellery brand Trollbeads has introduced the first ever People’s Bead collection, created by members of the brand’s worldwide fan base. Launched in 2009, the People’s Bead competition is an opportunity for Trollbeads followers to try their hand at designing their own beads and be in with a chance to see their designs crafted by a professional Trollbeads designer. Trollbeads’ marketing director Bettina Lovstrom Pedersen said: “We raised the bar and gave our customers a complex theme this year and they responded beautifully. The result is phenomenal.” September 2012 Irish jewellers face penalties if they trade without displaying a dealers notice The Edinburgh Assay Office has seen an increase in demand from its UK customers to hallmark articles that normally fall below the UK exemption rates due to legislative changes in Ireland. Changes to Irish hallmarking legislations at the beginning of July mean it is now an offence to sell precious metal articles without displaying a new dealers notice. Guidance from the Irish Assay Office has been issued reminding Irish jewellery retailers that all gold, silver and platinum articles, regardless of weight, must be hallmarked prior to being offered for sale, and that failure to comply could result in fines or imprisonment. Edinburgh’s assay master and CEO Scott Walter said: “Unlike the UK, Ireland has no minimum exemption weights for precious metal articles. This effectively means that any article being described as gold, silver or platinum must be hallmarked before it is offered for sale. “The guidance issued by the Dublin Assay Office defines a legal hallmark as being an Irish Hallmark, an International Convention Hallmark, or an approved Hallmark. Although the UK assay offices are able to apply International Convention Hallmarks, I have had written confirmation from the Irish authorities that UK Domestic Hallmarks are also approved.” Companies requiring advice on complying with Irish hallmarking regulations are advised to contact their assay office. Jewellery FOCUS ROUNDUP Celebrity endorsement Image: JonathanLGardner New ‘Portas Pilots’ offered BRC support The British Retail Consortium (BRC) is offering a practical support package to the latest wave of so-called ‘Portas Pilots’. In February the Government announced a £1.2 million pot of funding to enable 12 towns to try out some of the key recommendations from the Mary Portas Review on the high streets. Now a further 15 locations have been announced, including Ashford, Braintree, Liverpool, Morecambe and Tiverton, as part of the scheme aimed at reviving local high streets. The BRC is now offering existing and new Pilots a free package of benefits for the initial 12-month period of their existence. Included in the BRC’s package is access to its suite of retail sector performance statistics and intelligence on the legislative agenda. Director general of the BRC Stephen Robertson said: “The Pilots are a good start towards meaningful action which could help town centres turn their fortunes around. Offering the [businesses] access to our valuable business information will help them better manage and plan their activity, making it more likely they can deliver the revival we all want.” Argenta House decorated with Olympic-themed anti-racism murals Ari D Norman Ltd’s Argenta House in London has become the setting of an Olympic Games inspired urban art project commemorating three Olympiads at which racial strife was highlighted. Ari Norman, whose company manufactures sterling silver jewellery, commissioned the project on the walls of his building to pay tribute to the athletes who have been involved in the highlighting of racial and civil issues at the Olympic Games. Of the three panels, one represents the 1972 Games in Munich, during which 11 Israeli athletes were murdered; one depicts John Carlos, Tommie Smith and Peter Norman’s stand for the Olympic Project for Human Rights, otherwise known as the Black Power salute, from 1968; and one shows Jesse Owens’ Nazi-defying gold medal haul at the Berlin Games of 1936. Jewellery FOCUS 7 Stacey Solomon sports Nomination bracelet Singer, television presenter and reality TV star Stacey Solomon has recently been pictured in The Sun newspaper wearing one of Nomination’s brightly coloured You-Cool bracelets. Made using lightweight copper treated with a colourful finish, there are 10 bracelets to choose from, ranging from pillar box red to lime green. In June alone, Nomination sold 40,000 pieces of You-Cool and the range has already been spotted on many other British celebrities. September 2012 8 ROUNDUP Diamond market Polished diamond prices were announced to have declined in the first half of 2012, with the RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI) for one carat down 3.6 per cent. Trading was slow at the beginning of July as Indian suppliers came under pressure as the economic outlook weakened. Luk Fook’s fiscal year revenues were up 47 per cent to $1.5 billion (£956 million). Israel’s polished exports for the first half of 2012 were shown to be down 19 per cent to $3.3 billion (£2.1 billion). Belgium’s polished exports for June were down 13 per cent to $1.3 billion (£830 million) and rough imports down 35 per cent to $925 million (£590 million). Contrarily US May polished imports were up three per cent. Anglo American gained final approval for its buyout of De Beers, and Rio Tinto named Alan Davies as diamond unit CEO. As July wore on trading centres were quiet as buyers avoided large purchases while suppliers adjusted to lower prices. De Beers dropped prices an average of three per cent but sightholders continued to reject non-profitable Diamond Trading Company goods. Harry Winston estimated rough diamond prices would be down eight per cent in the second quarter. India’s polished diamond exports in June were down 35 per cent to $1.5 billion (£956 million), with rough imports also falling 26 per cent to $1.2 billion (£764 million). At the end of the month rough markets were under pressure as prices softened and inventories rose. Polished prices were weak as Israel and Belgium headed towards holiday and liquidity pressures mounted in India. De Beers’ profits for the first half of 2012 were almost halved to $386 million (£246 million). Zale secured a new $665 million (£424 million) credit facility, while Swatch Group announced its first half net sales were up 16 per cent to $3.7 billion (£2.4 million). Retailer Green + Benz undergoes a management buy-out Independent contemporary retail jewellery specialist Green + Benz has been sold to a management buy-out team, led by the company’s incumbent managing director Helen Dimmick, for an undisclosed sum. Helen (pictured) will take a controlling stake in the business, which operates across four stores in Manchester, Sheffield and Chesterfield, employing 31 staff members. She is joined on the new board by the company’s current finance and operations director, Mark Williams, and chairman of T H Baker, Alan Higgs. “Green + Benz is in excellent shape; the great relationship with our suppliers ensures we constantly anticipate retail trends and the dedication and loyalty of our staff is second-to-none. To lead the management buy-out of such a prestigious and wellrespected retail jewellery business is a truly wonderful opportunity,” said Helen. “Of course we will not rest on our laurels, and plans are in place to increase the turnover of the business in the next five years, with store developments, expanding product ranges and services and online technology all avenues that will be explored further. “For me, integrity and ethos will always be the core of the jewellery business, and with each step I will continue to demand best practice to meet these beliefs.” BJA Diamond Jubilee brooch competition finalists announced The British Jewellery Association (BJA) has selected six finalists for its Diamond Jubilee brooch competition. Entrants were requested to design a brooch inspired by the Queen’s 60-year (and counting) reign on the throne. Of the 30 entries received, the BJA’s judges have chosen six entries to be voted on by the trade and public. The finalists are: Andrew Everest Fine Jewellery; Gwyneth Harris Fine Jewellery; Harriet Bedford; Ivonna Poplanska; Kasun London; and Lynsey Pluck Jewellery. The winning design will be announced at lunchtime on the final day of IJL. It will then be made and gifted to the Queen. To view the entries and vote, visit www.bja.org.uk/jubileevote or visit the BJA’s stand (J120) at IJL. Clockwise from top left: Ivonna Poplanska, Gwyneth Harris, Andrew Everest, Lynsey Pluck, Harriet Bedford Images: Monnickendam Diamonds September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 10 ROUNDUP Celebrity endorsement Holts Academy and the Prince’s Trust set youngsters on jewellery career path Holts Academy of Jewellery and the Prince’s Trust’s partnership ‘Get into Jewellery’ programme has helped students set out on careers in jewellery design and manufacture. The week-long programme gave unemployed 16 to 19 year olds the opportunity to learn about the art of jewellery making before committing to a full course. The students gained hands-on practical experience in both making and design while developing their individual understanding of jewellery as a whole. Of the 12 participating students, 10 will carry on for a further four weeks to study towards a recognised qualification in jewellery making. Principal at the Holts Academy of Jewellery Lee Lucas said: “The values of the Prince’s Trust and those of the Academy are very much aligned – inspiring a generation… recognising that today’s students are tomorrow’s workforce. This partnership has done just that – it has inspired a group of young people to explore a career in the UK jewellery trade. “By joining 300 other people who have studied on the Academy’s industry certified qualifications and apprenticeships this year alone, these young people will be nurtured and educated to fulfil their potential. We hope that many will progress on to an apprenticeship this autumn.” Alabaster & Wilson reaches 125 years Movie stars mingle in Tresor Paris at charity gala Alabaster & Wilson Ltd, founded in the same year that Queen Victoria celebrated her Golden Jubilee, is celebrating its 125th year in business. Founded by Arthur Alabaster and Thomas Wilson on Vyse Street in 1887, the company moved to 9-11 Legge Lane three years later – where it has remained ever since. Since 1983 the jewellery firm has been run by Arthur’s great-grandsons, Paul and Stephen, and great-granddaughter, Wendy. Over its 125-year history, Alabaster & Wilson has manufactured products for many of the UK’s leading jewellers and for exports across Europe, USA and Australia. The firm has also supplied exclusive pieces for the British Royal Family, Sultan of Brunei, Eric Clapton, Lewis Hamilton, Jenson Button and many others. Today the firm employs 11 people, many of whom have been with the company for their whole careers, and many of the products are made at its on-site factory. “We’re really proud to be celebrating this special anniversary and it is fitting that the landmark has fallen in the year of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the Olympic Games [have] returned to England,” said Stephen Alabaster. Image: (L-R) Stephen and Paul Alabaster with Paul Fenner, partner at accountancy firm Chantrey Vellacott. At the recent annual Starlite Gala in Spain, several of the Hollywood stars in attendance were sporting Tresor Paris jewellery. Antonio Banderas, hosting the gala for a third consecutive year, wore a Tresor Paris Auteuil black diamond bracelet, while Daryl Hannah opted for the white crystal Migennes bracelet and Jonzac to match. The Kill Bill, Blade Runner and Steel Magnolias actress was also given one of Tresor Paris’s brand new watches, from the collection due to be released at IJL. Held in Marbella, the Starlite Gala is a charity event dedicated to improving the lives of communities, families and children in need. Attendees were treated to a musical performance from Antonio Banderas, as well as a three-course à la carte meal and a charity auction. September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS 12 ROUNDUP Bobby White London named official partner of Cannonball 2000 Jewellery designer Bobby White London has been named an official partner of the Cannonball 2000 car rally event. Named for the iconic film Cannonball Run, Cannonball 2000 is a five-day, 2,000-mile car race that takes in some of Europe’s most glamorous cities: London, Barcelona, Monte Carlo, Milan, and Paris. Bobby White said of the partnership: “Bobby White London is thrilled to be involved in Cannonball 2000. The race promises glamour, excitement and fun, and the cars of course express quality; the same quality that is associated with a piece of fine jewellery by Bobby White.” Cannonball girls will be wearing jewels from Bobby White London’s Romeo and Juliet-inspired ‘Star Cross’d Lovers’ collection. Each city selected as a party destination on the Cannonball 200 route has been chosen because of its reputation for style, glamour and party spirit. Celebrity endorsement Carat* shines on America’s Next Top Model ArtCAM helps re-create the Cheapside Hoard A partnership between the Museum of London, Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre (JIIC) and Birmingham Institute of Art and Design (BIAD) is using technology to investigate the greatest hoard of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewellery in the world – the Cheapside Hoard. Dr Carey worked alongside senior CAD/CAM technologist at JIIC and BIAD Keith Adcock, and senior curator of Medieval and post-Medieval collections at the Museum of London Hazel Forsyth for several days, taking photographs and scans of the items to find out which methods could have been used to create them. It was found that some of the pieces had suffered deterioration over the years, meaning that the team would have to visualise how the pieces would have previously looked before determining how they were created. One piece of the hoard suffering considerable corrosion that could not be easily laser scanned was the gild brass verge watch signed by G Ferlite. Keith Adcock explained: “Laser scanners do not work well with shiny objects such as gemstones, glassware and polished gold. For us to accurately scan the Ferlite watch we would have had to chip out the enamel and spray it white, which obviously we weren’t going to do. Nonetheless we scanned the dial of the watch but it needed CAD interpretation and enhancement.” The watch face was recreated with artistic computer-aided design and computer-aided manufacturing (CAD/CAM) software, ArtCAM JewelSmith. Using this software, from Delcam, Keith imported a photograph of the watch face and used the built-in programme to create a model surface. Effects of corrosion on the day dial saw Keith employ ArtCAM’s vector drawing tools, shape editor and smoothing tools before ArtCAM rendered the piece as it would have looked before receiving its enamel finish. Keith then 3D printed the model after remodelling the 3D shapes and creating the necessary files using ArtCAM’s advanced STL Creation. Carat*’s collection of man-made gemstones was the jewellery of choice during a recent episode of America’s Next Top Model. Aspiring models wore Carat* during the filming of the advertising campaign for the fragrance ‘Dream Come True’. Posing inside giant perfume bottles, the finalists from the show’s 17th series wore necklaces, bracelets, bangles and rings exclusively by Carat*. September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 ROUNDUP In brief Watchfinder reports strong start to 2012 Pre-owned timepiece specialist Watchfinder has reported sales for Q1 were up 21 per cent on the same period last year. With sales of over £3.3 million during Q1, the Maidstone-based retailer sees the figures as evidence of the increasing appeal of pre-owned watches amongst fine watch buyers. “Taken in context, this has to be seen as strong growth, and it’s further evidence of the increasing appeal of pre-owned premium watches,” remarked Watchfinder’s managing director Stuart Hennell. Sima Vaziry designs new British Museum collection Sima Vaziry has supplied a new range of jewellery to the British Museum, commissioned in support of the ‘Shakespeare: Staging the World’ exhibition. The pieces from the Shakespeare collection are modern interpretations of Tudor jewellery, using red and green gems combined with silver and 24 carat gold plating. Sima’s jewellery will be on display and sale for the duration of the exhibition (19 July to 25 November). Surrey Police launch suspect identification app The Surrey Police have launched a mobile phone application that allows members of the public to help identify suspects at the touch of a button. Facewatch has been launched following the success of 2011’s ‘Beat’ application. Officers hope it will help identify people caught on camera who may be responsible for a crime or be able to help with an active investigation. Johnsons Jewellers celebrates 115-year anniversary milestone Johnsons Jewellers of Nuneaton is celebrating its 115th year at the heart of the Warwickshire town. Johnsons’ history in the jewellery profession actually dates back further, to the 1860s, when Henry Johnson began trading as a watchmaker in Lutterworth. Henry shared his skills with his son Harold, and in doing so began a family business that has been passed down through five generations and counting. Johnsons has carried on its traditions in watchmaking throughout its 115 years and currently employs two specialist watchmakers so that most repairs can be made on its premises. In celebration of its 115-year history, Johnsons will host a Black Tie and Diamonds Gala Charity Ball at Coventry’s Ricoh Arena in November; a premiere of the new James Bond film Skyfall at the Odeon cinema in Warwickshire; and a TW Steel and Lotus Day. Over 15 luxury watch brands, such as Rolex, Tag Heuer, Omega, and Tissot, are stocked at Johnsons’ store alongside a vast array of jewellery brands that offer products from engagement rings to necklaces to bracelets. Image: Present day members of the Johnson family. 14 Fatlip wholesale rebrands as Miss Milly Managed by Sarah Watmore, Miss Milly Limited has now taken over all of the wholesale jewellery elements of Fatlip – which will remain a retail brand. “A reevaluation of the business and the market was the catalyst for the change. As well as a fresh look, we have launched a brand new website with added functionality for customers,” Sarah explained. Miss Milly will be exhibiting at Autumn Fair, where Sarah is looking forward to introducing customers to the new brand. NAG to launch apprenticeships The National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) is working with Skillsmart Retail to launch an apprenticeship scheme within the sector. With almost 25 per cent of 18- to 24-year-olds unemployed, the organisation states there has never been a better time to develop and retain a talented and skilled workforce, and that apprenticeships are an ideal way to do it. To this end, the NAG has issued calls to interested parties from central London, Derbyshire, the north east, Manchester, South and West Yorkshire and the south west. For more information please email email@example.com L M Jewellery set to launch brand new showroom L M Jewellery will launch its brand new Hatton-Garden-based diamond jewellery showroom on 10 September. Since 1995 L M Jewellery has been supplying the jewellery trade as a direct manufacturer of diamond-set jewellery. The company has now taken the next step forward by moving into its very own diamond jewellery showroom. “This is a very exciting development for us,” remarked L M Jewellery’s sales director. “Trading by mail order catalogue and exhibiting at trade fairs has always worked very well for us. However our range is now expanding so fast it made sense to be able to display our products all year round, every day of the week.” Previously, customers could only access L M Jewellery’s range of products by appointment at the company’s current offices. But after IJL, customers will be able to visit L M in the heart of Hatton Garden, from Monday to Friday, all year round (32 Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8DL). L M Jewellery’s mail order side of the business will continue as usual and plans are in place to develop a fully functional website. Holts launches new trade website Hatton-Garden-based gemstone supplier Holts has launched a new ecommerce website specifically for the jewellery trade, which showcases a selection of the precious gemstones from the company’s showroom, allowing trade customers the chance to buy online for the first time. The main product lines on offer at holtslapidary.com are loose gemstones, calibrated stones, bead strings and equipment. September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS ROUNDUP Folli Follie Group joins CMJ The Folli Follie Group, which includes Links of London, has become an approved supplier to the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ). CEO of the Folli Follie Group George Koutsolioutsos said: “Folli Follie Group has decided to join CMJ as it sees huge potential to develop the brands through the wholesale channel and CMJ members.” Chief executive of the CMJ Willie Hamilton added: “We see this as a major opportunity for Links of London, Folli Follie and the CMJ to work in close partnership. We are delighted that CMJ retailers will be the first in the UK to see Links of London’s new autumn/winter 2012 collection along with Folli Follie’s new jewellery, watch and accessory collections. This follows in the footsteps of many major brands that are now launching collections in the UK at our CMJ Trade Events.” Philip Treacy to create bespoke Voltaire Diamonds ring collection It has been announced that milliner Philip Treacy OBE and Voltaire Diamonds will collaborate to create a collection of matrimonial rings. The exclusive collection of individual diamond engagement rings with matching wedding bands will be designed by Philip Treacy and created by Voltaire Diamonds, launching in early 2013. “We want the collection pieces to represent beautiful, highly desirable, emotional symbols of love, which are also exclusive, treasured possessions,” said Philip. CEO of Voltaire Diamonds Seamus Fahy added: “Bringing Philip Treacy’s design originality and remarkable vision to the creation of these rings will create an exceptionally special offering for brides-to-be, and provide a fresh and new creative option that will appeal to a discerning clientele.” Dates for your diary... 2 – 5 September International Jewellery London Earls Court 2, London www.jewellerylondon.com 14 – 18 September London Fashion Week, Somerset House, London www.londonfashionweek.co.uk 24 September – 7 October Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/news/goldsmiths’-fair-2012/ 13 – 14 October J’adore Jewellery and Silversmithing Fair Putteridge Bury House, Putteridge, near Luton www.romorexhibitions.co.uk/jadore_october.html 16 – 18 November Desire Jewellery & Silversmithing Fair Guildhall, Winchester www.desirefair.com 17 18 face to a name Three minute interview Face to a name Get acquainted with new and existing industry representatives Labelux makes new appointment as it looks to expand online business Steven May, director of Maygems Ltd Describe yourself in three words Dedicated, persistent, motivated. When did you join the company and what attracted you to the role? I started Maygems in December 2011 after being made redundant from my previous job, which I had held for 22 years. What does your typical day involve? Sorting repair jobs for the relevant craftsmen; selecting the stones required; checking all work back from the previous evening; dealing with the orders for the day; and following up on any stock orders. Which aspects of your job do you most enjoy and why? With each day being so different, dealing with diamond sightholders through to one-man businesses like diamond setters, I am never bored! What can your company do for its customers? I can offer a one-to-one gemstone wholesale service, and with an everincreasing stock I am able to help where many others can’t. Meanwhile, with a full repair service I can have work conducted and returned usually within one week. What is your proudest achievement? Setting up on my own two days after being made redundant and finally being in charge of my own destiny. What is the best advice you’ve been given in life or work? Don’t wait for others; do what you can each day; and never put off for tomorrow what needs to be done today. September 2012 Caroline Rolfe has moved to Labelux Group as head of ecommerce for emerging brands. Having spent two years at Links of London and Folli Follie, where she re-platformed the website and restructured the ecommerce department, Caroline has now taken the opportunity to move to Labelux across its portfolio of luxury brands. “My remit will be to build the online strategy for the emerging brands and work towards the group’s vision to grow the ecommerce business and create brand engagement and experience online,” she explained. NIRC announces new director Aodhán Michael Connolly has been appointed as director of the Northern Ireland Retail Consortium (NIRC). Aodhán joins the NIRC after a successful tenure as account director for Chambré Public Affairs in Belfast. With over 13 years of experience in public affairs and public relations, he has worked extensively with politicians and other decision makers at all levels. His career has also included five years in the voluntary sector with organisations such as the Prince’s Trust. The NIRC is a sister organisation of the British Retail Consortium (BRC) and represents the multiple retailers in BRC membership who trade in Northern Ireland. Aodhán will be engaging with government and other relevant stakeholders to ensure that NIRC members are fully represented in any debate on the future of retail and the economy in Northern Ireland. “The retail sector in Northern Ireland employs over 75,000 people, making it one of the largest sectors of the economy. That is without taking into account the huge positive impact that our members make on the supply chain here. The retail sector also provides more volunteer hours and puts more into corporate social responsibility than any other sector in Northern Ireland. These facts show that retail has a huge part to play in achieving economic growth here and must be recognised as an important voice in the discussion of the future of the province,” said Aodhán. Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 20 Letters to the Editor Dear Editor, Dear Editor, ce In reply to Michael King’s insuran dI coul replacement letter (July issue), en chos has point out that if any customer free own r their insurance company, of thei the says will, you will find no clause that re to insurance company can tell you whe mmend. reco spend your claim – they can only d to orte rep be Insistence on their part should the Insurance Ombudsman. omers I give this information to my cust t from men lace and they all arrange for rep d by plie sup me if the item was made by or me originally. George Hempshall, ffield George Jewellery, Broomhill, She g) Kin (An independent like you Mr With reference to the letter from M ichael King in your July 2012 issue, abou t insurance compa ny claims proced ures, we have just had an interesting conver sation with a customer faced with replac ing stolen items that we ha d made for him. After some heated arguments with his insurance compa ny he was eventu ally offered either a cash settl ement for his cla im or the offer of a ‘credit card’ with money loaded onto it, which coul d be spent at an y shop that accepted Maestro cards. I think the messa ge is, tell custom ers who are having this pr oblem to argue wi th their insurance compa nies and not be fo bbed off with the first offe r they receive. Hope this helps. Mark Thompson Deemark Jewelle ry Dear Editor, We read with interest the Letter to the Editor in Jewellery Focus (Jul y). In our 45 years in the retail jewellery indu stry, we have come across many insurance claims that have left us wondering – the latest being a month ago when the daughter of a very good customer of ours lost her engagement ring, purchased from us in 2009. It was a plain 0.5 carat stone in 18 carat gold. She asked for a copy receipt etc, which we gave her. We also show ed her a copy of the Ombudsman letter, which says that she can exercise her right to go to whom she wishes for a replacement and not the ‘approved jeweller’. But she was told by the insurance company that if she wan ted a cheque she would be deducte d one third off, as this is the discount they get from the approved jewellers. Southampton was her nearest app roved jeweller, so she did the thre e-hour round trip and then brought the replace ment in for us to see. You probab ly know what’s coming. Our stock ring, always in stock, weighed 3.8 grams against 2.1 grams. Colour K as opposed to our H. Clar ity P1/2 to our SI1. When put side by side the customer burst into tears. This sort of thing does not help the retail jewellery trade at all. Surely the insurance companies know that to get one thir d off something isn’t right? But do they care? I think the majority of insurance companies are after settling the clai m as quickly and as cheaply as possible. That said, we do deal with insuran ce companies who are much fairer in their dealings with claims. In total agreement with Mr King. P Arnold MD, Weymouth Goldsmiths September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 22 Statement pieces Head turners For customers looking to make a big entrance, one of these awe-inspiring pieces could be just the ticketâ€Ś Beau Diamond Beau Diamond is a brand created by Jamie Coulston, who has 25-plus years of experience in the diamond trade, starting out as an apprentice diamond setter. Using his passion for the timeless beauty and the many shapes of diamonds, he seeks to represent and celebrate the facets and cuts of this precious stone in his jewellery designs. Pictured is the Jubilee ring, made in 925 sterling silver and pavĂŠ set with 300 eye-catching cubic zirconia. It stands at about two inches from tip to top, and the same in circumference. Watch this space for further gemstoneshaped jewellery pieces from Jamie! Information: www.beaudiamond.com September 2012â€‰ Jewellery FOCUS Statement pieces Ornella Iannuzzi els Van Cleef & Arp To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Goldsmiths’ Fair this autumn, Ornella Iannuzzi will be launching a new collection of statement pieces called ‘Les Exceptionnelles’ during week two of the annual event at Goldsmiths’ Hall. This new range sees the artist-jeweller revealing and sharing her fascination with geology and mineralogy, exposing the fundamental beauty of nature’s architecture. Each piece features a mineral variety, such as tourmaline, garnet, beryl (emeralds and aquamarine), in its natural state, and also a rare variety of diamond in slices, all carefully combined with cut stones into bold architectural compositions. The Fortuna Clip is part of a new collection from Van Cleef & Arpels, entitled Palais de la Chance and inspired by symbols of luck. Fortuna, from the Latin fors meaning ‘fate’, is the name of the Roman goddess of luck, who Information: www.ornella-iannuzzi.com is depicted in the piece carrying the horn of plenty – the symbol of joy and wealth – from which flows multi-coloured sapphires and white cultured pearls. She shields her eyes with her right hand as luck is said to be blind and impartial. The combination of precious stones – diamonds and coloured sapphires and the white opal – allows the piece to increase in volume while still showcasing the stunning light effects and reflections. Lalique Information: www.vancleef-arpels.com Lalique’s Sacred Fire Odyssey collection is a high-end jewellery range inspired by myths and symbols. The Phoenix Pendant and Ring are made of yellow gold paved with diamonds, mandarin garnets, yellow and orange sapphires, and the ring also boasts a pearl-set pear fire opal. Meanwhile, the Vesta Necklace is composed of three detachable jewels, and can therefore be worn four different ways. The lady brooch component comprises a phoenix head mask in yellow gold and lacquer, with hair in yellow gold paved with 181 diamonds (0.72 carat), arms in yellow gold paved with 41 diamonds (0.53 carat) and 39 yellow sapphires (0.68 carat), as well as two faceted round 0.65 carat pink sapphires. The wings are of yellow gold and enamel with mother-ofpearl separations and feathers in sculpted mother-of-pearl; the bust is made of crystal, with a belt of yellow gold set with 23 diamonds (0.23 carat) and a bezel-set 0.12 carat fire opal cabochon. The lower body features yellow gold, mother-of-pearl enamel and a 1.43 carat faceted oval fire opal. Information: www.lalique.com Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 23 24 Statement pieces ry Kleshna Jewelle Kleshna Jewellery has opted for glamorous statement design with the ‘Major Liberty’ collection. The necklace, pictured here, echoes the iconic Art Deco architecture of New York City, and features angular crystallised jet columns built into pyramid groups and interspersed with multifaceted Swarovski Element crystals, finished in sterling silver or plated gold. Information: www.kleshna.com d Sheldon Bloomfiel Sheldon Bloomfield offers an array of coloured stone jewellery including many one-off pieces designed by Sheldon using unusual fine gems including aquamarine, kunzite, green tourmaline, rubellite and tanzanite. There is a bespoke green tourmaline ring, which features tourmaline from Brazil and weighs 6.64 carats, with diamonds weighing 0.75 carats. Meanwhile the pink tourmaline of the necklace (pictured) is also Brazilian and weighs 4.75 carats, with diamonds weighing 1.25 carats. Both pieces are set in 18 carat gold. Information: 0113 243 0100 or www.sheldonbloomfield.com Carat* Set in sterling silver with uniquely created gemstones, the elegant new Art Deco collection from Carat* represents the eclectic design style that began in Paris in the 1920s – sophisticated elegance and glamour with a touch of modernity. The style influenced all areas of design, including architecture, interior design, industrial design, fashion and jewellery. The Art Deco collection has already been seen adorning celebrities on the BAFTA red carpet. Information: www.carat.co ioielli Ponte Vecchio G Ponte Vecchio Gioielli describes is Vega ranges as a “combination of energy and purity”. Pictured are the Owl pendant, in yellow gold with yellow sapphires and diamonds; the Seahorse pendant, in yellow gold with tsavorite, rubies and diamonds; and the Octopus pendant in pink gold with rubies, sapphires and diamonds. Information: www.pontevecchiogioielli.it September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 28 Vintage jewellery Past, present and future Vintage styling continues to be a top trend across several retail categories, and the jewellery sector has been working hard to satisfy demand through creative use of antique components, as well as developing new designs that hark back to times gone by. Louise Hoffman takes a look at some of the latest collections, and asks what the future holds for this trend W KArma September 2012â€‰ alk through any shopping area, and you will see vintage influences, whether it be in jewellery designs, window display props, or clothing. And whilst this has always been the case in certain specialised stores, it has also been a key theme on the high street for quite some time now, showing no signs of abating. The trend offers the consumer many options, allowing them to rescue grandmaâ€™s costume jewellery from the attic; purchase choice pieces from antique and bric-a-brac shops for creative customisation of existing outfits; upcycle old jewellery to make something new; or choose from the plethora of new designs Jewellery FOCUS Vintage jewellery Eclectic Ecce ntricity with vintage features and finishes, across all price points. Interestingly, therefore, this is a trend that benefits all branches of the jewellery industry – designers, manufacturers, suppliers, retailers, secondhand jewellery dealers, and repairers. Eclectic Eccentricity has worked with vintage components since the company was first established in 2004, and has been tracking the rise and rise of the vintage jewellery trend. “Of course, vintage has always had its followers,” says Lucy Crick of the company, “but the trend really hit the mainstream around 2007/2008. With handmade websites such as Etsy and Folksy and the rise in popularity of eBay, vintage components became easier to source, and this led to a huge fluctuation in the vintage jewellery market. Naturally, major retailers then reproduced their own lines, and the vintage jewellery trend well and truly hit! Specialising in vintage and vintagestyle jewellery, Eclectic Eccentricity marries hand sourced vintage components with newly found trinkets to create a story, as is demonstrated by the ‘Falling for You’ earrings and the ‘I’ll Have a Bee Please, Bob!’ necklace pictured left. Jonathan Lynne and its sister brand Phoenix Jewellery, which have been manufacturing classic and period-style pieces of jewellery and charms for over 35 years, point to the recession as having been partially responsible for the emergence and continuation of the trend, perhaps providing people with a bit of escapism as they reminisce about ‘the good old days’ (rose tinted specs at the ready!). “It has also certainly been helped by both the Royal Wedding and the Diamond Jubilee, which seemed to lead to a dramatic increase in sales of our traditional range of charms,” they add. Drawing on influences from the Georgian period right through to the modern day, the brands use their design expertise to accentuate the jewellery with a range of precious and semi-precious stones and diamonds. The aforementioned traditional charms number in excess of 600, and are carefully crafted to show every detail; whilst the large range of silver marcasite jewellery is set with semiprecious stones and seed pearls. Bespoke designs are also available courtesy of the design team. “The grandeur of Victoriana, the oblique design of Art Deco or the Avant Garde of the 1970s; vintage jewellery has something for everyone,” says Jonathan Lynne “Each period has left behind exquisite examples of its time and represents the development of ideas, encompassing not just jewellery but fashion, architecture and interior design” T.O’D Jewels Luke O’Donoghue of T.O’D Jewels. “Each period has left behind exquisite examples of its time and represents the development of ideas, encompassing not just jewellery but fashion, architecture and interior design.” Originally established by Tom O’Donoghue in 1951, the company upholds this master jeweller’s founding principle to this day – namely, to carry on the traditions of fine traditional craftsmanship through a combination of jewellery making and antique and vintage jewellery dealing. Today, under its modern-day moniker of T.O’D Jewels, owners Luke and John O’Donoghue have travelled extensively around the world, buying and selling vintage, antique and modern jewellery in many international markets. Speaking of the vintage jewellery trend, Luke continues: “The vintage tradition includes a fine range of previously owned gem-set and diamond jewellery of a contemporary vintage. Once reconditioned, these pieces can represent great value for money. “There is an ever increasing interest from the public in jewellery and antique dealing, fuelled by a plethora of television programmes and internet auction sites, which have allowed more people to trade in unwanted items for something new.” Jewellery FOCUS 29 September 2012 30 Vintage jewellery KArma He points out that, whilst the high scrap metal prices are attractive, there is now much greater awareness of recycling, to give old, forgotten and unloved items a new lease of life, whether with the original owner or a new owner. “Recycling has long been a tradition in the jewellery industry and looks set to continue as each generation comes to appreciate vintage styles or ancient gemstones. It also generates opportunities for shopkeepers to buy great pieces straight from the customer and make a new sale at the same time.” Karma jewellery has also noticed that “from London’s Portobello market to chic boutiques in New York, vintage is everywhere! The popular retro style is an opportunity for self-expression through style, fashion and jewellery.” The Karma vintage range brings a sense of nostalgia, featuring heirloominspired pieces, cameo-style necklaces and quirky novelty pendants, with an antique look and finish (as pictured above and worn by the model in the photo at the start of this article). “We have a wide range of fashion jewellery, including the Karma vintage range, and also offer the retailer a fantastic mark-up and a complete retail package including POS, packaging, and high resolution product and model photography,” says the brand. Other stock options are offered by family-run silver wholesaler Thammarat Trading Ltd, which specialises in silver and marcasite jewellery. Many of the company’s frequently-updated ranges include pieces with a vintage appearance, such as the ones pictured above. Meanwhile, Rachel Helen Designs has combined vintage and recycled jewellery to create the fairy-taleinspired Juniper Tree collection, which comprises completely bespoke designs. Thammarat Trading “ This is recycling in its purest form, because we are taking relics which have been around for hundreds if not thousands of years and transforming them into pieces of jeweller y” She has recently been commissioned to create a series of these pieces for Edinburgh Castle and the British Museum – indeed, the cameo necklace (pictured below left) was created for the former of the two locations. And for something truly rooted in history, why not try English Relics, which has created a groundbreaking range of necklaces, earrings, cuffs and cufflinks made from genuine antique artefacts, including musket balls fired during the English Civil War, Roman knee brooches, and 8th century Viking bowls. Designer Peter Leathers is a selfconfessed ‘collectorholic’, and his experience in the antiques business has helped him to trace back the dates and functions of the pieces, which he sources from dealers and metaldetector finds. “Our clients want to know as much about the history of each artefact as possible, so every item comes with full details of its provenance and valid export licences, along with a unique serial number, which means the new owners are able to talk about their jewellery’s fascinating history with authority,” explains director Angela Thompson. Passionate about preserving the integrity of the artefacts, Peter works with his vast collection of antique tools to lovingly handcraft the jewellery, which he also treats for conservation purposes. “This is recycling in its purest form, because we are taking relics which have been around for hundreds if not thousands of years and transforming them into beautiful and desirable pieces of jewellery,” says Peter. So, what does the future hold for vintage? Lucy of Eclectic Eccentricity points out that the trend has already evolved, being now “most at home with its core audience: those who fully appreciate the history behind these treasured old components and will happily pay for good quality pieces.” And although, as with all trends, it will eventually wane, I think all of those involved would agree with Jonathan Lynne’s conclusion: “There will always be customers looking for something different and more elaborate, reminiscent of a bygone era.” English Relics Information Rachel Helen Designs September 2012 Eclectic Eccentricity: www.eclecticeccentricity.co.uk English Relics: www.englishrelics.co.uk Jonathan Lynne/Phoenix Jewellery: 01935 426 791 or www.jonathanlynne.co.uk Karma: 02890 473 483 or www.karma-jewellery.com Rachel Helen Designs: www.rachelhelendesigns.com Thammarat Trading Ltd: 01702 525 530 or www.thamtrading.co.uk T.O’D Jewels: 0207 242 8001 or www.todjewels.com Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS IJL 2012 show guide New discoveries International Jewellery London is set to bring the industry together once again this year, to view and discuss the latest jewellery trends and designs W ith more new exhibitors than ever before (129plus), and top brands and designers returning, the 57th International Jewellery London (IJL) is held from 2 to 5 September at Earls Court, London. A key date in the buying calendar, it provides the chance to see the hottest new contemporary and classic jewellery collections from leading British and international designers and manufacturers, as well as relative newcomers to the industry, in preparation for the busy Christmas sales season and the coming year. Visitors can stroll down the Boulevard, studded with star brands and designers such as Fei Liu Fine Jewellery, Richard Hans Becker and Heinz Mayer. Stuart Moore will also return this year on his own stand on the Boulevard following his successful debut in 2011. A new watch trail around the show will highlight watch brands, as well as jewellery companies with watch lines. Brands include Storm, Festina, Bering Time Ltd, Erhard Junghans and BQ Watches (Rolex, Cartier, Breitling, Omega and Patek Phillipe). Meanwhile, the Design Gallery and Designer Brands areas will create an intimate setting for buyers and retailers to talk to inspirational designers and see their new launches. Dinny Hall, whose fan-base includes Kate Winslet, Alexa Chung and Samantha Cameron, will be showcasing for the very first time. She joins a line-up including Amara, Rachel Galley, Sarah Jordan, Deakin & Francis, Andrew Geoghegan and Babette Wasserman. The Bright Young Gems and KickStart initiatives will once again identify a selection of the hottest new designers as they launch. Val Trotter, director of retailer Pebbles, said of the 2012 KickStart line-up: “New designers… are the life blood of our industry and keep our customer offering fresh and interesting. Every single designer selected has shown not only fantastic creativity and skill but also, and importantly, a great commercial awareness. “IJL and other events where we meet the people behind the jewellery are so important for retailers like us who don’t stock big mainstream brands; our customers really appreciate the fact that we can tell the story of the designer – it makes the purchase so much more personal and therefore more meaningful.” Hero metals IJL will also feature a celebration of metals this year, and one of the highlights will be the Platinum Experience hosted by Platinum Guild International (PGI). For the first time ever PGI is presenting an exhibition which showcases the unique heritage of platinum. Presented through interactive technology, the exhibition tells the story of the qualities of this everlasting metal. Jewellery FOCUS The Platinum Trail will also reveal some of the best in platinum jewellery design and production, streamlining the show for visitors interested in design-led platinum jewellery. Seminar highlights Industry-related seminars will once again provide visitors with expert tips and tools to help them maximise revenues, save costs, and generate ideas to set them apart from their competitors. The seminar programme, which is now available to view online, includes: Callum Watt, aka Maketh the Man, discussing the future of blogging; top insights from the Retail Champion, Clare Rayner; a Thomson Reuters expert discussing the gold survey and forecast for 2013; Martin Rapaport reporting on the diamond market; a look at upcoming trends from leading trend forecasting agency Stylesight; the Silver Promotion Service looking at the silver market; and presentations by market experts at research company GfK. Online community Benchpeg will also be hosting interactive, intimate group workshops from its ‘hub’ at stand A60, such as An Introduction to Inexpensive CAD, which will be delivered by Cad-man on Sunday 2 September from 10 to 11.30am. You can find out more about the IJL seminars in Sam Willoughby’s column this month, on page 50. Best from around the world National pavilions provide an opportunity to see some of the best international jewellery talent from selected countries each year at IJL. Amongst others, this year the Netherlands will be represented for the first time with the Dutch Design Pavilion. In co-operation with the Dutch EVD international, the Dutch Gold and Silversmiths Association (VGZ) is organising the collective showcase, featuring high quality, handmade gold and silver jewellery. “Everything at IJL is designed to enhance the visitor experience,” event director Sam Willoughby concludes. “There are plenty of places around the show to network and relax, including around the newly-designed Boulevard Bar, IJL’s new networking space on the forecourt, the ‘Garden Café’ and the Design Gallery Bar. There are also numerous evening events in and around the venue, making IJL a weeklong meeting place for the jewellery industry.” For more information on IJL 2012 and to register for the event, or call 0208 271 2144. visit September 2012 33 IJL 2012 show guide Floorplan Diamond Club Lounge F148 E149 C139 C138 F151 G150 G140 F149 G151 i158 H158 H159 H150 H151 i152 G141 H149 F146 F141 E140 E141 E138 E131 i169 J168 J165 J169 i161 J160 J163 K160 i159 J158 i151 G139 H138 H139 J155 K154 J153 K150 i148 i149 J148 J149 i146 i141 J140 J145 K144 J141 K140 H141 F131 K164 i131 J138 i130 K147 K148 DP Cappuccino Expresso K130 J136 E134 Up to Seating Area H131 G131 C129 E128 IJL Boulevard Bar F121 E129 C127 E121 The Restaurant i124 E118 C119 i129 J128 J129 i127 J124 J127 K124 F118 E119 F119 G118 G119 H118 H119 i118 E114 i119 E112 F100 E108 C109 Seating G110 F111 F110 F109 E110 E111 i116 G108 F101 G109 H108 H109 H101 G101 J118 J119 J110 K116 K114 J108 i110 J111 K110 i109 J109 i101 J101 K100 K102 C101 A91 B91 B95 C99 C93 B86 B89 B81 C80 A89 B88 E99 E96 B79 A71 B71 A69 B69 C70 A79 A75 C89 E88 E79 B63 B65 F71 F60 B59 C51 E59 F58 E51 F50 B51 J98 i95 J94 i90 i91 G89 H89 G81 H81 G71 H71 i88 i89 i81 i80 i78 J99 K90 J95 J91 J92 J81 J88 K80 J80 i79 J78 J79 i71 J70 J71 K78 Kosher Food Available i76 E69 KICKSTART i99 i94 i77 E61 GCDC G70 i98 H90 E71 Bar G60 G61 H68 H60 F59 G51 H50 H69 i68 H61 H59 i61 J68 J61 K68 J60 i60 i59 i50 H51 J50 J59 J51 i51 C50a C50b C50c B39 C39 B49 B41 C46 C44 E49 D41 D43 D45 D47 D49 E40 E48 C48 C41 C43 C45 C49 D40 D42 D44 D48 A41 F79 B61 B47 A55 A51 A49 A47 A43 B42 B44 B46 B48 A48 A40 B50 B56 B58 A59 F78 F68 H99 H91 F89 C61 Bright Young Gems C62 B45 B62 A65 Up to Streams & Press Office E70 H98 F81 G80 E81 E78 C71 G99 F91 E89 E80 C79 C68 A61 G98 G91 E91 E90 C81 A81 Seating & Benchpeg Hub F99 F98 C90 C91 B99 B90 A99 & up to Restaurant F48 F49 G49 H48 F40 H49 i48 H41 G41 i49 i40 J48 J40 J49 K48 J41 K40 i41 E41 B11 C10 B1 C2 C3 D33 D35 D38 D39 E32 E38 G31 H38 H39 i39 i38 H30 F28 F20 E24 E29 E21 H31 F11 G21 H21 J30 J31 K30 i31 i29 i28 i20 E19 J39 J28 J29 K28 J20 J21 K26 i21 D21 D13 D15 D19 E14 E16 E18 D28 D1 D29 J38 i35 H35 F31 D25 D27 D20 D18 C21 C27 C17 C19 B15 B17 B13 C12 A15 A13 A11 B19 C16 C11 C15 A25 B21 C20 A19 A1 C29 C26 B29 B23 F39 E39 D31 C31 D10 D14 C32 C33 C35 C36 C37 D30 D32 D34 D36 D37 B31 B33 B35 B37 A33 A35 A39 B32 B34 B36 B38 C32a A29 B12 B14 B16 A18 Victoria Room C34 C30 A31 B24 A24 A28 A30 A32 A36 Harbour Room Press Office A38 Dash! A21 K20 F18 G11 E11 H18 H19 H10 H11 i18 i19 J18 i10 i11 J10 J19 K18 K10 J11 Cloakroom D11 E1 H1 F1 IJL Garden Cafe September 2012 Up to Business Centre Global Media Network Lounge J121 J120 i111 H111 G111 K128 J123 i125 i121 B101 Cafe Bar A60 Whitehall Room H125 i128 G121 E75 Industry InsightS H129 E120 C111 B111 C118 C110 B109 C108 B103 A101 C104 B108 A109 A111 B110 B112 A119 B118 C121 A121 C125 E100 C126 A123 A125 G129 i108 A129 J130 K118 C131 i100 C130 Up to Successful Retailing Industry Insights Press Office Crussh Diamonds & Precious Gems F156 F150 Seating Gems F158 F152 E145 C141 G161 Design Gallery E148 C149 G160 Silver Jewellery C148 F155 Fine Jewellery A131 Up to Multi-Faith Prayer Room E158 C151 C140 F159 Hong Kong Pavilion C159 F162 F160 Designer Brands C158 C150 E169 E161 E160 E151 A159 A150 A141 Sales Lounge C161 C160 i150 C169 E168 C165 A169 A161 Inspiration Theatre Jewellery Solutions H170 IJL Runway Seating Successful Retailing 34 ENTRANCE ENTRANCE i1 J1 K1 Organisers’ Office Jewellery FOCUS IJL 2012 show guide 35 Exhibitor list 26 PassageB79 Bouton F98 BQ WatchesH48 A A Beautiful StoryG60 Bransom Retail Systems Ltdi110 A E Ward & Son LtdJ81 Brave DesignsC108 A G & Sons (UK) LtdE151 Breuning GmbHH139 AAGAARD A/SF11 British Jewellers’ AssociationJ120 Aaron Shum Jewelry LtdJ158 Brown & Newirth LtdG61 Aaron’s Pin Thread SculptureK130 Buildview Jewellery LimitedJ155 aarzee jewelleryH131 BujaC49 Abdurrahman ShahC16 Bullion Bond LimitedC161 Abigail StradlingC20 Burkmar JewelleryA21 Actacrown LimitedJ61 Button and Co. Goldsmiths Ltd. F109 Adamas Yuvelir LLCJ70 ButtoneraB86 Adele TaylorC43 By EliseE71 Aesthetic Jewellery Company LtdK140 Affinity GemsK48 Aï SHiTERU ParisE110 AIM DISPLAYE158 Alberto DisaròD47 Alcozer & JE114 Alex Clamp JewelleryC35 Alexander DavisC31 Alexis Dove A61 Alfred Terry LtdH109 Alice Gow DesignsD25 Alice MenterC17 Alish Wholesale LtdJ49 Alison HaddonD27 Alraune Lapidaries Edelsteinhandels GmbHK40 Altin JewellersK130 AmadoriaC104 Amanda ColemanA15 Amara JewelleryD49 Amber Hall JewelleryF18 Ambrosia ParisC81 America’s Silver CollectionE141 Amore E149 Amrapali UK Ltdi29 Amy Keeper JewelleryD43 Ana VerdunD28 Anchorcert Gemmological Laboratory H119 Andea JewelleryC90 Andrew GeogheganA75 Angels & PromisesD36 Anna PredolacC34 Annaloucah Fine JewelleryC51A Annie Mundy JewelleryA91 Annika RutlinA41 ANTONIO BEN CHIMOLE112 Antwerp Diamonds LtdG31 Anupam Gems Japan LtdJ10 Apple Display & Shopfitting LtdC151 ApsaraJ29 Arabel LebrusanD42 Art Center IHANAD35 AS DiamondsJ19 AshianaA119 Asina LinaF151 Assay AssuredF149 AswunB103 Atelier Boss & HarrisonF60 Atelier KrullA25 Atelier LuzG60 Atteridgeville Jewellery ProjectsK130 Aurum of LondonD48 B B K Jewelleryi161 Babette WassermanB71 Bachtar Kleinod oHGK80 Banyan JewelleryE108 Bass Premier Co.G81 benchpeg A60 Benor Designer JewelleryB101 Bering Time LtdF131 BKT (Rings) Ltd/TJW (Diamonds) LtdH49 Blue Star Gem (Thailand) Co LtdJ110 Body BangleC50c Bossert GmbHA129 Jewellery FOCUS Delcam UKC149 Demidoff Co LtdJ123 Des Doyle GoldsmithB21 Dewcarat Ltdi149 DI Perle GmbHK30 Diamonfire LtdF78 Diane Turner JewelleryC36 Dinny HallE78 Di’s Jewellery DesignsK130 Djalis Creations C2 DMJ F39, F49, F59 DominoG141 Donald ClarkeF110 Double Arts Jewellery Manufacturer Ltd J148 C Dower & HallF89 C W Sellors Fine JewelleryG71 Drew PerridgeB12 C.D. Compamy LtdK150 Dureco AGK110 California CollectionsJ50 DWJ (B’Ham) LtdH35 Caprich Ltdi79 E CardillacG60 Carola Ross & AssociatesK130 E. Wolfe & Companyi95 Carrs SilverE11 Earthsniffers LtdF20 Cavendish French E19 Eastern Mystic C12 Cetinol San. Tic. Ltd. StiC32 Edinburgh Assay Office/Assay Assured Ceylon Gems LtdJ41 F149 Ch. Dahlinger GmbH & Co KGc131 EFFY (BH Multi Com)G89 ChamiliaE131 EJIJ153 Charles Greeni68 ELEUTERIOi127 Charlie High DesignsD13 Eliash JewelleryC126 Charmian Beaton DesignB108 Elizabeth Everett Jewellery DesignB47 Charms UKE119 Elran Ltd - Aviv A99 Chavin JewelleryD10 Emdico (London) LtdH30 ChhoaH150 emeDigital LtdC169 CHQ GmbHJ109 Emeraldcroft DiamondsK20 Chris HawkinsD31 Emma TurpinC37 Chris Lewis JewelleryC101 EnvisionTEC GmbhC160 Christelle LtdJ160 Erfurt DesignE120 Christopher Anderson DesignB46 Euro PearlsG41 Chrysalis & Stack Ring Co by Silver WillowE90 Chun Yuen Jewelry Company LtdK144 Ciara Jewellery Co LtdK154 Cindy AshbridgeC50c Citrus London LtdC110 CJW JewelleryH138 Claire English - Special Jewellery CompanyA65 Clarice Price Thomas JewelleryC51B CME Leicester LimitedE91 COCOTIERA1 Codis MayaE40 Coeur de Lion Schmuckdesign GmbHF91 Collette Waudby LtdA40 ColorjewelsJ149 Corona Jewellery CompanyH31 Cristiane Fischer DesignsC50a Curteis CreatesB48 Curteis Ltd B48, H141 D D Scott-WalkerH19 D.G SilverF48 Dabbah LtdB99 Daisy JewelleryG70 Dan Jewellers Ltdi1 DANA NAFISI Jewelry D20 DanhovH158 Daniel GallieC50b Daniel Moesker JewelleryG60 Daniel ViorA39 Dante Cenci LimitedG99 David Max DiamondsK28 David Peterson Clocksi150 David TurnerB37 Davina Combe JewelleryB32 De Anna Kiernan JewelleryC51C De MexicoF111 Deakin & Francis LtdC79 DeciC15 Deckwell Gold Ltdi159 Deco EchoF58 F FabelD14 Fable Trading LtdF100 Farah QureshiB1 Fei Liu Fine JewelleryG131 Ferrara GiFé Gioielli s.a.s.i99 FestinaE129 Fi Mehra DesignsD33 Fine Gems Collection GmbHJ40 Fine Jewellery by Fehmida LakhanyE14 Firepetals - Creative JewelleryK130 Flash JordanB61 Flavie MichouC51D Fleet Retail PackagingA161 Flowerie 88B16 Forever AmberC118 Fred E UllmannH21 Freeform Fabrication Ltd.A159 Fruit BijouxB95 G G & T (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd.F28 Galaxy USA IncJ1 GeckoF31 Gem-A (The Gemmological Association of Great Britain)J60 Gemco DesignsJ128 GEMEXH38 Gemma JB88 Gemological Institute of America (GIA)i101 Gemsone Corporation H99 Gemvine LtdE118 Gemvision Europe Enterprise LtdH149 Genie Jewels Ltdi20 Gepardissima Ornament Design CCK130 Gift Time Productsi150 Gina Stewart CoxE38 Giuily JewelryE16 GlamouriteA35 Glenn CampbellB19 Global Diamond & PearlK120 Global Jewelry SpecialK120 Gold Pack Packaging LtdC139 Golden Touch Manufacturing Jewellers K130 Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design CouncilB59 Goudsmedery Heleen TuinmanF60 Goudsmid Juwelier Marijke MulF60 Greenspark LimitedG49 H H S Walsh & Sons LtdA141 H. AZEEMC121 Hadas Nussbaum - Craft maker designer D29 Hallmark Design & Shopfitting LtdH111 Hanalex Ltd/AML Wedding Bands Ltd i124 Hanron Jewellery LtdH50 Happy Dragon Arts Ltd - Helen Fung K102 Harrison Brothers & Howson LtdC125 Hatton Garden MetalsH1 Hean Studio LimitedH129 Heinz Mayer OHGG11 Henig DiamondsG139 Henry and PowellH39 Herbert Marx Ltdi59 Heskia BrothersJ138 Hesse GmbH & Co. KGi48 HK Jewellersi81 Hockley Mint LtdH118 HollerF39 Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Associationi148 Horizon Creation LimitedK148 Hot DiamondsG140 Houlden GroupH125 I IDEX Online-Diamond ExchangeJ118 IGIi21 IkuriaC46 Ilona BigginsK116 Imfundiso JewellersK130 Imogen BelfieldC51E Indo Gems Handels GmbHK90 Institute of Professional Goldsmithsi152 International BullionG21 International Diamond and Jewellery Co. (I.D.J.C)G81 International Gemstones LtdJ18 International Packaging Corporation (UK) LtdE128 International Palladium BoardH170 ITCHYDOJ88 J J N Jewellery Ltdi39 Jabulani JewelleryK130 Jack Schpektor DiamondsH10 Jacks DesignC33 Jacob Issacharoff Diamonds/JIDG111 Jade InternationalK130 Jade Rich Jewellery Ltd.K147 Jaipur Silver Jewels PVT. LtdA121 Jana Reinhardt JewelleryA19 Jax Jewellery LtdA111 Jayce Wong LtdB63 Jaytee JewelleryH69 JCI Jewellery LtdE81 JCK MagazineK120 Jersey PearlG108 Jesa D44 Jessica de Lotz JewelleryB62 Jessica Flinn Designs LtdA32 Jessica Jewellery DesignB15 Jewel Mechanic Ltd.C62 Jewel Pak InternationalC158 Jewel World LtdC91 JEWELEVER/TSI Trading Marketing Ltd F68 Jeweller SolutionsC159 Jewellery Focusi128 Jeypore Creations IncE1 Jianhui LondonD1 Jo for GirlsC89 September 2012 36 IJL 2012 show guide JoiasJ71 Jomaroi88 Jon Vincent The Watchmaker LtdH151 Jos Von Arx UK LtdF119 Joseph & Pearce Ltdi35 Joseph Lamsin JewelleryA59 Josyfon Diamonds LtdH98 Julia Pharo JewelleryB44 Jura JewelryF60 Justin DuanceB31 K K & R JEWELLERYH71 K K Jewellery Co LtdJ145 Kali Ma Designs LtdF40 Karats & CaratsJ38 Karen HallamA30 Karma Se7en LtdF148 Karolina Bik Bi?uteria AutorskaB95 Kate Wood JewelleryA36 Kavant JewelryC70 Khomotso Jewellery CreationsK130 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery Fty LtdJ163 KissikaD30 KISSING DIAMONDS by Continental JewelleryH108 Kleshna Jewellery B39 Kling GmbHA129 KokkinoD11 Korczynski DesignerschmuckE32 Krieger KG, Hans D. G51 Kristal Diamonds LtdK10 Kuropatwa Brothersi11 L L M Jewellery Ltd J30, K1 La10C19 Laroche OpalsJ79 Latham & NeveB49 Laura GravestockB42 Laurel Jewellery LtdH91 Lavan Designer JewelleryA29 LBJ JewelleryE111 L’Cally Jewel LtdD39 Leslie Donn LtdH60 LestieLee Jewellery LondonC51F Lido Pearls & Gemstones/Bulatti JewelleryC119 Lili Design LtdD34 Lily & Lotty/it DIAMONDSE79 Linda Macdonald Designer JewelleryB29 Li-Ren Stone & Pearl JewelleryE100 London Pearl (London) LimitedH10 London Road JewelleryG151 Lorna HendersonD45 Lotus Jewellery Company LimitedJ165 Loushelou LtdD32 Luca Carati SrlI121 LUCKY EYESD19 LucyQ DesignsC39 Luke GoldsmithE18 Meira T. Designsi100 Michael MichaudE61 Midhaven LtdF81 Milor SpAF71 Mira Style Jewellery Company LtdJ168 MIRPURID41 Mirri DamerB35 Mishca Jewels LondonA51 Missoma LtdH18 Mode360/3DEasyC109 MomocreaturaD38 MONILE & RICCI 1983H159 Monte JewelleryE169 Mounirs DesignE48 MURUE21 MW Edelsteine M. Weskamp/I. von Hoerde GbRK68 My Pearl GmbH & Co KgG109 Myia BonnerC51H N Nada GB51 Namiki Co Ltdi39 Nannapas LtdB111 Natalie Jane HarrisB34 National Association of Goldsmithsi109 Neilson PhotographyC127 Nelson Jewellery Arts Co LtdK160 Nereida JewelleryB89 Nexus PearlsH61 NialayaF150 Nick HubbardC26 Nina OsborneC21 Noble Jewelry LimitedJ141 Nol SieradenG60 Nomination srlF121 Noor Grup Kuyumculuk Ve Aksesuar Ltd.StiF160 Nosallis DesignsA43 Nova SilverF156 Ntinga LtdI98 NTR Metals UK LtdC150 O OAK JewelleryA79 Olympus IndustrialF152 Opals Mine Factory LimitedK114 Oria JewelleryA18 Oriental Gemcoi51 Oro Ltdi131 Ortak JewelleryG98 Otis Jaxon - EmbersC80 Ottoman HandsB90 P P. J. Watson LimitedG121 Pallavi Bhartia Dezine StudioB109 Parure ParisE110 Paul Costelloe Jewellery/NJO Designs LtdC93 PautinkaUK.comA24 Pearce DisplaysE168 Pearl & QueenieC44 Pearls Of The OrientE59 Peers Hardy GroupF101 Perfection Jewellery LtdH41 Perle de Lune SDDI LtdC27 Phase of Platinum Jewellers CC T/A Phase JewellersK130 Philip Kydd LimitedC48 Pica DesignF118 Ping Ping Jewellery Ltd.A101 Pip PortleyB13 Platinum Guild International (UK) Ltd G161 Pollards International Inc Cool Case CompanyE134 PomegranateE29 Potters (London) LimitedA131 Prabhu Enterprises LtdK128 Pursuit Software Ltdi129 M M.S. Kays Jewellery Ltdi41 Maker MendsJ28 Mandana OskouiC51G Manihar International Co., Ltd.J99 MANUF118 Mara Hotung JewelsA55 Marcia Lanyon LimitedJ51 Marcus McCallum FGAJ31 Marcus Wilkinson ClocksF159 Maree LondonC41 Marina ProkopivaC3 Mark Milton LtdG101 Marlene HounamA28 Marta SalinasC32a Martick JewelleryF1 Martina HamiltonB23 MarzipanK130 Matt Aminoff Pearl Companyi38 Q Maya Diamonds LTDi40 McCourt’s Jewelleryi76 Quarter AngelC51i September 2012 R R.E. Morrishi90 R.M.Shah LtdJ101 Rachel EntwistleA48 Rachel Galley Jewellery Design LtdA71 Radiant DiamondsJ21 Rahul ExportsK100 Ralph MasriC29 Rapaport GroupJ98 Rebecca Anne JohnsonB36 Rebecca Anne LeeB33 Reeves Creative LtdB118 Renee JewellersH51 Responsible Jewellery CouncilJ48 Richard Cooper and CompanyE88 Richard Hans Becker KGG119 RINGL - Spirit of FascinationJ80 Ritone Jewelry International Ltdi141 River Mounts JewelleryH101 Rivoir GmbH, Hansi28 RKM Nushine LtdC130 RoccabellaB110 RodgersandRodgersB69 Rohm Gmbh & Co KGJ121 Ros MillarC51J Rosina Beech JewelleryB24 Rubin & SonE140 Ruppenthal (UK) LtdJ92 S SafeGuard Jewellery Valuation Service H119 SaimaJewelA33 Sally Ratcliffe JewelleryC45 Sally Wilcox JewelleryB65 Salvati 1983 S.a.s.I116 Samuel Jones (Pearls) Limitedi60 Sandia SilverA89 Sarah JordanC71 Sarah Packingtonb14 Scala Gioielli srli89 Scherer CreationsA11 SchmuckBasar GmbHA169 SGS BVG60 Shama Akhtar Trading Co. LtdK118 Sheena McMasterB38 Sheila Fleet Jewellery LtdA69 Sheldon Bloomfield Ltdi10 Sheru GemsJ127 SHO Fine Jewellery LtdE70 Shwet Ratan ImpexJ39 Sian Bostwick JewelleryD21 Sian Elizabeth HughesD15 Sico International LtdJ11 Sigal Distribution LtdE24 Silver Cherry LtdC99 Silver Delights LtdB91 Silverado & Joi D’art B110, B81 Silvex Los AngelesG80 Sima VaziryD37 Simon Kemp JewelleryA47 Since 1853 LtdJ130 Singhal GemsJ68 SK Diamonds LtdJ108 Skulls and OrchidsD18 Smile Jewellery LtdA109 So JewelleryA81 Solitaire Gemmological Laboratories Ltd H68 Sonal Talgeri-Bhaskaran LondonC12 Sonya Bennett Jewellery LtdA31 SOUGH C10 SPARK - Firma Corundum Sp. z.o.o.F99 SSP Steidle GmbHE160 Star RaysK18 Starborn CreationsF162 SteltmanG60 Stephanie HenzlerA49 STORMG110 stuart mooreG91 Stubbs & Co (UK) LtdG129 Studio F Manufacturing JewellersK130 Sun Enterprises BVJ111 Sunlight Jewelers LtdJ169 Sunrise GemsK78 Sunshine Exim Traders LtdI19 SuShillaC11 Sutton Tools LtdC141 Svane & Luhrs ApSF79 T T H March & Co. Limitedi108 T O’Donoghue Ltdi61 Taka Jewellery (Hong Kong) Ltdi151 Takat Gems USA Inc./ TAKATi18 Talbots (Birmingham) LtdC140 TankelH81 Tara KirkpatrickA38 Tathata EuropeF50 TBR Salesi94 Tezer GmbHG118 Thai Design Distributors LtdE99 Thammarat Trading LtdE75 The Best JoyasK120 The Birmingham Assay OfficeH119 The BranchB41 The Company of Master Jewellers Ltdi130 The Golden Pursei71 The Jeweller’s Box CompanyA150 The Jewellery Hub LtdB17 The Laboratory at the Birmingham Assay OfficeH119 The New JewellerK120 The Opal PeopleK26 The Rowell Trading CompanyJ91 THOMAS NAYLERD40 Tianguis JacksonE49 Tivon Fine Jewelleryi80 Tomasz DonocikC68 Town Talk Polish Co LtdE138 Trade & Investment South AfricaK130 Treasure House Limitedi50 TregawneA123 Tresor Paris/Hasbani UK E39, i49 TrustIn Investorsi125 Turquoise Jewellery LtdE89 U Ungar & UngarH89 Unique Jewelry LtdE121 United Color Gems Inci31 Unordinary PeopleB50 V Van Hees Kersten V.O.F.G60 Vereniging Goud- en Zilversmeden F60, G60 Veronique Designs LimitedA13 Vibe Watch (Appleson Agencies Ltd.)F141 Vicky DaviesC30 Vimal Arts & CraftsC111 Vinod Kotahwala Inc.J20 Virk InternationalJ59 Virtue Jewelry LtdK164 Vista Jewelry Ltd.J140 Viventy UKE51 W W Hamond - Presented by CW Sellors G71 William CheshireC30 Wing Wo Hing Jewelry Group Ltdi169 World Shiner/Mireya UK LtdH90 Y Yaron Morhaim Jewellery Design LtdE80 Yilmaz Fine JewelleryI118 Yom - Asy LondonB45 Yuki MitsuyasuB11 Z Z.A.ZEN Marketing & Consulting CCK130 Zilver DesignsE69 ZinziF59 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 IJL 2012 show guide 38 ¯¯ Alfred Terry returns to IJL this year with new owners and a new look. Showing at IJL will be the brand new 1909 Origins Collection; the Portamento Collection; and the Diamond Hoops Collection. The 1909 Origins Collection comprises 12 rings containing certified diamonds with gold and platinum mounts. The Portamento Collection utilises diamonds and black diamonds, as well as ruby; blue and pink sapphire and emerald; gold and enamel. Meanwhile, the Diamond Hoops Collection adds a touch of understated glamour. Information: 0208 446 9020 IJL stand: H109 ®® Nova Silver creates elegant collections in both plain silver and stone-set jewellery. The company has added new, nature-inspired designs to its popular ‘Kitten’ range, which features satin effect silver and freshwater pearls; and new for IJL is the Art-Deco-inspired Marcasite range, ideal for the current 1920s trend. Nova’s other best-selling ranges, featuring Baltic amber and semi-precious stones, also boast fresh additions, and will be on show at the event. Information: 01603 305 799, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.novasilver.com ¯¯ Sunshine Exim has been supplying handmade, gem-set jewellery for over 20 years. The company has an enthusiastic team of experienced and motivated people, who create traditional and contemporary pieces. Bespoke pieces of jewellery can be made using customers’ own gemstones and diamonds. Sunshine Exim says it “satisfies all clients well with credible quality, competitive prices and exceptional customer service.” Information: 0207 242 9299, email@example.com or www.sunshineexim.com IJL stand: i19 IJL stand: F156 ®® Hockley Mint is one of Europe’s largest manufacturing jewellers, producing mounts, wedding rings, jewellery components and bespoke items. The company has invested heavily in technology and people to ensure a continuation of its high standards of service and quality. Launching at IJL will be ‘Zt Precision Mounts’ – a project over a year in the making, designed with the goal of producing the finest quality pre-set mounts in the world. The collection combines cutting edge design with high standards of British craftsmanship. Information: 0121 242 0042, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.hockleymint.co.uk IJL stand: H118 Vibe Watch is a fully interchangeable timepiece created by Appleson Agencies. The range has 30 unisex colours in most components, creating an innumerable amount of design combinations. But colour isn’t the only choice available, as all Vibe Watch components are offered in two sizes. The watches and components are available individually or as part of a gift set containing a variety of colour component combinations. Information: email@example.com or www.vibecollection.co.uk IJL stand: F141 ®®At IJL 2012 Gecko will be showcasing each of its successful ranges: Basics; Elements Silver and Gold; Fiorelli; D for diamond; and Fred Bennett. Fiorelli Silver’s new range includes spiral pieces and droplets of molten silver, while the Fred Bennett range offers wearable and up-to-date designs featuring new materials and textures. Children’s jewellery line D for diamond will introduce a personalised engraving range, and the Elements Silver collection includes new trend-led designs. Information: 01376 532 000 or firstname.lastname@example.org IJL stand: E31/F31 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 IJL 2012 show guide 40 Buddha to Buddha Trollbeads ¯¯ ¯¯ Fable Trading is the UK’s sole distributor of Danish charm bead brand Trollbeads and Balinese silver jewellery brand Buddha to Buddha. Both brands’ latest collections will be revealed at Fable Trading’s stand at this year’s IJL show. Trollbeads’ latest range includes the People’s Bead 2012 Spiritual Collection, made up of beads designed by fans of the brand. Information: 0117 979 3363 or email@example.com IJL stand: F100 A respected member of both the Antwerp and London diamond exchanges, Jack Schpektor will use IJL to introduce his ‘Fancy Colour Diamondworld’. Working with coloured diamonds, Jack creates something special and unique so that, in his words, “more people have something nice and different.” Also available in white diamonds, Jack Schpektor’s diamond collections are fully certified. Information: www.saymazal.com IJL stand: H10 This year at IJL, Silverado will be introducing its ‘By Hand’ collection of hand-woven silver and leather bracelets in both classic and casual styles; contemporary Mediterranean jewellery brand Joi D’Art, which is brand new to the UK; and Roccabella, which includes new gemstone and metal necklaces and bracelets as well as druzy and amethyst designs, all of which are offered in a rainbow of finishes from palladium to rose gold. Information: 0208 275 1600 or firstname.lastname@example.org IJL stand: B81 for Silverado and J’oi D’Art; B110 for Roccabella ±±Sheldon Bloomfield is exhibiting at IJL once again this year and is taking the opportunity to launch its new large cocktail diamond rings using FVS diamonds. Besides the new rings, the company will showcase over 250 new designs featuring coloured stone jewellery, including many one-off pieces designed by Sheldon himself. Information: 0113 243 0100 or email@example.com IJL stand: i10 ¯¯ T O’Donoghue’s (T.O’D) is a third generation family-run business trading in fine diamond and gem-set jewellery. T.O’D travels around the world dealing in antique and vintage jewellery, sourced from an extensive network of contacts. As well as being able to supply fine jewellery from all periods, the company has a range of sapphire and ruby jewellery to complement its traditional diamond range. Information: 0207 242 8001, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.todjewels.com IJL stand: i61 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 IJL 2012 show guide 42 ®® River Mounts Jewellery is a specialist manufacturer of finished mounts in 18 carat gold and platinum. Its extensive range of semi-set and plain mounts caters for a variety of stone sizes to suit individual preferences. The company’s range is ever-growing and, alongside eternity rings, now includes earrings and pendants – designed to complement its existing pieces. Information: 0121 523 1028 IJL stand: H101 ¯¯ Based in Birmingham’s famous jewellery quarter, DWJ is a wholesale importer and manufacturer of jewellery. The company will use IJL 2012 to exhibit its comprehensive range, from plain silver earrings to 18 carat diamond solitaires, alongside new launches such as a range of plain mounts in 18 carat gold and platinum, which extends the company’s existing range of pre-set diamond mounts. Information: 0121 236 7051, email@example.com or www.dwjewellery.com Thanks to its high quality and modern designs, Festina Watches is an internationally successful brand. Festina will be the official timekeeper for the first ever Tour of Britain cycling race in mid-September, and to commemorate this, the brand has created a range of eight chronograph watches inspired by the world of top-level competitive cycling. Four of the eight models come with steel bracelets and the remaining four with PU straps. Information: 0207 405 5523, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.festina.com IJL stand: E129 IJL stand: H35 ®® 2012 will be Paul Draper’s first appearance at the IJL show under the new trading name of Jewel Mechanic Ltd (formerly known as Glitterati). Jewel Mechanic’s stand will place an emphasis on its current and newly launched lines of both men’s and unisex silver jewellery. Information: 0118 933 3332, 07779 228 635, email@example.com or www.jewelmechanic.com IJL stand: C62 One of Britain’s leading jewellery, gift and retail packaging specialists, Talbots Group Limited can provide a one-stop solution for a company’s packaging needs – from design and project management, to manufacture and distribution. As well as launching its new catalogue at IJL 2012, Talbots Group will showcase its luxury packaging ranges and bespoke handmade wooden and cardboard boxes. Information: 0121 333 3544 (Richard Gee), firstname.lastname@example.org or www.talbotsgroup.co.uk Cavendish French enjoys a reputation for quality sterling silver and stone-set jewellery. Some of the collections on show at its IJL stand this year will be the new pearl and semiprecious stone collection; blue sandstone designs; and the new silver and cz collection. From cute and sparkly fairy pendants to elegant rings and earrings, Cavendish offers pieces suitable for special days or for everyday. Information: 0800 731 4389, email@example.com or www.cavendishfrench.com IJL stand: C140 IJL stand: E19 ¯¯ September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 IJL 2012 show guide 46 ¯¯ “IJL has always been a pivotal show and this year will be no exception,” says Chris Hawkins, who unveils a new set of designs at IJL 2012, including a men’s wedding ring collection. Men’s jewellery is a rapidly expanding market, and Chris Hawkins Jewellery’s natural-inspired textures and fine detailing are designed to appeal to a wide variety of tastes. Information: 01273 554 632, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.chrishawkinsjewellery.com IJL stand: D31 ®® Thammarat Trading Ltd is a family-run manufacturer and wholesaler that specialises in silver and marcasite jewellery. Operating for over 20 years, Thammarat prides itself on supplying quality jewellery at affordable prices with great customer service. Not being restricted to a seasonal catalogue enables Thammarat Trading to keep its range vibrant and current. Information: 01702 525 530, email@example.com or www.thamtrading.co.uk ¯¯ Delcam will launch its latest jewellery design and manufacturing software, ArtCAM JewelSmith 2012, at this year’s IJL. Available in 32 and 64 bit formats, the software enables jewellers to quickly assemble individual and complete lines of jewellery. Users have access to over 800 components to create their jewellery, as well as the use of a new 3D modelling process that allows previously pasted down relief artwork to be manipulated and edited. Information: firstname.lastname@example.org or www.artcamjewelsmith.com IJL stand: C149 IJL stand: E75 ¯¯ Midhaven will show over 150 styles of real leather friendship bracelets, in seven sizes and over 20 colours. Brand new for IJL are the XXL bracelets, new point of sale materials and a large range of stainless steel jewellery. The Lavish, CZ and semi-precious ranges will also be on show at Midhaven’s stand. Information: 01299 851 513, email@example.com or www.midhavensilver.com Based in Cornwall, Justin Duance Jewellery is a small and personal company that specialises in hand crafting contemporary jewellery from recycled materials such as gold, palladium, silver and wood. As all of Justin Duance Jewellery’s pieces are handmade, each one is guaranteed to be individual – making it exclusive to the wearer. Information: www.justind.co.uk IJL stand: F81 IJL stand: B31 ¯¯ September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 IJL 2012 show guide and unique jewellery in a range of cutting edge and stylish designs for modern day life. The jewellery is made from nine carat gold, 18 carat gold and sterling silver, and utilises both precious gemstones and diamonds. Current collections include Karma Se7en Silver; Karma Se7en Gold; Karma Se7en Gemstones; and Karma Se7en Diamonds. Information: firstname.lastname@example.org or www.karmase7enwholesale.com IJL stand: F148 IJL stand: i50 Tresor Paris is a jewellery house that designs and hand finishes a stylish collection of unisex jewellery pieces. The range is constantly expanding with new designs and collections, and at IJL this year Tresor Paris will unveil its all-new watch collection – the name and colour palette for which will also be revealed at the show. Information: 0203 355 4030, email@example.com or www.tresorparis.com ¯¯ Treasure House will feature its new Premium Weds range of high quality wedding rings for the first time at IJL. This range is complemented by a wide choice of fine diamond-set wedding rings and jewellery. Treasure House’s stand at IJL will also feature its popular Premium Mounts range of high quality mounts in platinum and 18 carat gold. Information: 0207 400 0000 or firstname.lastname@example.org ¯¯Karma Se7en is home to high quality IJL stands: E39/i49 Corona will present its new Maple Leaf Diamond Bridal Catalogue at this year’s IJL. The company’s unique, certified diamond brands – Maple Leaf Diamonds and I AM Canadian – can both be traced to their Canadian origin; and it manufactures in all carats using Canadian Certified Gold, also offering a range in platinum. Corona will showcase many new styles at IJL. Information: 01299 832 813, email@example.com, www.coronajewellery.com or www.mapleleafdiamonds.com IJL stand: H31 ®® Lucy Q will be presenting her award-winning collections alongside exclusive new designs at IJL 2012. Offering more affordable pieces for her best-selling ranges, the new designs are inspired by the forms and shapes of everyday items and the natural world. Just like her signature collections, all of the new designs are made in highly polished, fluid silver. Information: www.lucyqdesigns.co.uk IJL stand: C39 Curteis will showcase a range of new products at IJL, such as the new sterling silver family charm locket, manufactured at the company’s Shropshire factory. Twelve new sterling silver cufflink designs are also included in Curteis’s new autumn collections, with novelty and formal designs. New sterling silver additions to the Instinct collection include a necklace, pendant and bracelet, featuring soft pink Swarovski pearls. Information: 0800 195 6771, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.curteis.com 48 IJL stand: B48/H141 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 50 IJL 2012 show guide Hot topics IJL event director Sam Willoughby speaks with some of the industry experts who will be hosting free seminars at the forthcoming show O nce again the International Jewellery London (IJL) free seminar programme will cover a plethora of industry issues, courtesy of expert speakers. To make it easier to work out which seminars are most relevant for you, it’s broken down into three streams running over the four days of the show – Industry Insights, Successful Retailing and the Inspiration Theatre, which is located on the show floor. Sessions in the theatre focus on jewellery trends, panel debates and leading keynote speakers. The International Palladium Board (IPB) has just announced the details of its seminar, which is set to be hosted by luxury journalist Claire Adler on Monday 3 September at 4pm, with special guest designer Stephen Webster and IPB chairman Brad Mills to introduce palladium as the newest precious metal to be hallmarked. This will be followed by a reception to celebrate IPB’s first year at IJL. I caught up with Claire Adler ahead of the seminar to discuss it: “We’re in the early stages of palladium’s journey in fine jewellery and I think this seminar will introduce it as the contemporary precious metal of the future,” she comments. A regular at IJL, Claire Adler knows the seminar programme well. She describes it as a “rich source of authoritative information,” adding: “Sessions like these are a great way of staying up to date with influential trends as much as with influential people.” It’s also about getting the facts and information. Martin Rapaport’s report on the diamond industry is always well attended and seen as a valuable opportunity to hear the latest updates. Leading market research September 2012 company GfK is also presenting two different seminars this year, so I spoke to account director Jonathan Hedges ahead of his seminar on the watch industry: “With the IJL show continuing to develop and expand into showcasing watches, this provides GfK with an increasing audience to whom we can present the latest trends in the UK marketplace. The market is seeing dynamic evolution currently, via the increasing importance of internet retailers, sharp decline in volume sales and yet continued increase in average selling prices and the development of new materials. GfK will provide insight into these key trends and look towards what the future might hold for the watches industry, for both retailers and manufacturers alike.” Knowing about style trends can be just as important in terms of inspiring buying plans. Industry-leading global forecast and analysis service Stylesight provided an in-depth presentation last year on upcoming trends, and it was I can’t emphasise enough how useful such seminars are for your business, providing you with tips and tools to maximise revenues, save costs, and generate ideas to set you apart from your competitors. New speaker for 2012 Callum Watt, who is speaking on the topic of blogging, described it well when he said: “I think it’s fundamentally important for IJL visitors to attend seminars, as in no other given situation will they have access to free experts in so many fields; speaking to these experts as a billable job would typically cost hundreds of pounds in consultancy fees across many weeks, however over a couple of days visitors can soak up as much free information and advice as possible.” With regard to his seminar in particular, Callum, who is the blogger behind Maketh the Man, feels that with the ever-changing speed of social media, it is extremely difficult “Seminars provoke inspiration for future creative proce sses, and provide opportunities to connect with industry colleagues, as well as share experiences and expertise” standing room only. This year it is back to present a look at the overarching trends influencing design for the A/W 2013 season, with a focus on the design directives for the jewellery and accessories market. “These seminars provoke inspiration for future creative processes, and provide opportunities to connect with industry colleagues, as well as share experiences and expertise,” says Kim Mannino, director of client engagement, EMEA, Stylesight. for a brand to keep up to speed with best practices when working with bloggers. “I hope to give attendees a grounding in the best practice of blogger engagement and how they can measure the investment being put into the often unknown area of social media,” he comments. The full seminar programme is on the IJL website now so you can plan ahead before visiting the show. Just visit www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 52 IJL 2012 show guide A splash of colour The current fashion for colour blocking lends itself to showcasing complementary coloured stone jewellery. Here is a selection of inspiring designs from BJA designer-makers, which incorporate interesting stones Angela Fung This Double Glide Square Bracelet is made from laser-cut stainless steel panels, where slots are cut out to accommodate numerous gems (including peridot, citrine, amethyst, garnet, and blue and white topaz) which can slide freely, held in place with silver rivets. It makes a pleasant sound as the wearer moves about. www.angelafung.net Ann ca alou ne h Fi e Jew ller Angela Fung y Annaloucah Fine Jewellery: stand C51A This 18 carat white Fairtrade Fairmined Ecological gold ‘Radiance’ ring and earrings set with Jeweltree diamonds and pink tourmaline was worn to Cannes Film Festival 2012 by Livia Firth and Downton Abbey star Elizabeth McGovern as part of Annaloucah’s third collaboration with Livia Firth’s ‘Green Carpet Challenge’ for Vogue.com. www.annaloucah.com Babette Wasserman Babette Wasserman: stand B71 This sterling silver, gold-plated Glitter Starlight Ring is hand-set with Swarovski crystals in Greige, Montana, Olivine, Cyclamen Opal and Crystal Bronze. It is also available in sterling silver, rhodiumplated with crystals in Silk, Crystal Golden Shadow, Light Smoked Topaz, Antique Pink and Greige. www.babette-wasserman.com Charlie High Designs: stand D13 C h a r li e H ig h D e s ig n s These stunning silver collars with green quartz or amethyst rocks are in the new Charlie High Designs semi-precious stone collection. Available in either an oxidised, satin or brilliant finish, earrings and a statement ring can complete the look! www.charliehigh.com David Fowkes Jewellery Green ‘boat cut’ Namibian tourmaline set in yellow gold, with 10 graduated diamonds set in white gold from David Fowkes. www.dfjewellery.co.uk September 2012 David Fowkes Jewellery Jewellery FOCUS IJL 2012 show guide FredericK B ic Fr e d e r The ‘intimate setting’ is a stunning diamond ring setting exclusive to FredericK B. The brand’s unique concept involves the intimate partnering of diamonds over diamonds and/or precious stones. The image featured is ‘Passion’, part of the Intimacy collection, and showcases the beautiful pairing of a diamond positioned over pink sapphire. The collection is also available coupled with blue and yellow sapphire, or natural fancy pink diamond, yellow diamond and chocolate diamond options. www.frederickb.com KB Jayce Wong Ltd: stand B63 These emerald and diamond Étoile earrings are made in 18 carat white gold. The centre emeralds can be taken out and worn on their own. www.jaycewong.com Mishca Jewels London: stand A51 J a y c e W on g L td This rhodium-plated sterling silver Hidden Desire Cuff is a stunning signature statement piece from the Mishca Jewels Desire Collection. Set with luxury semi-precious gemstones of aquamarine, topaz, smoky quartz, pink tourmaline, green amethyst, purple amethyst and lemon quartz, the cutting-edge statement cuff is described as embodying “a sensual, unique and elegant design, captivating subdued hidden desire in its sleek formation.” www.mishca.co.uk Mishca Jewels London Muru: stand E21 P om e g ra n a te Muru Muru’s Monaco collection, in sterling silver or gold vermeil, features semiprecious stones with checkerboard cuts including a variety of ice-cream coloured stones that complement the trend towards muted pastel tones this season. Gemstones include blue jade, amazonite, rose quartz and purple jade. www.murujewellery.com Pomegranate: stand E29 These double-drop florite earrings are delicately set by hand in silver using uncalibrated stones, and are entirely one-of-a-kind. Similar styles are available with shimmering aquamarines and tourmalines, and have been hugely popular over the summer months. www.pomegranate-london.co.uk For more information, please visit Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 53 Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Fighting against crime 4 For this monthâ€™s retail security special, several experts in the field provide comment and advice on protecting your business from criminal activity Retail security 58 Protecting your business Alan McInnes, general manager of the police-led initiative Secured by Design, provides some top tips for fending off potential thieves I n January 2012 the British Retail Consortium (BRC) released figures that put the cost of retail crime at £1.4 billion in last year alone – a 31 per cent increase on 2011. Jewellery Focus ran an article by Michael Hoare in April’s issue on prevention being better than cure, and Secured by Design works on the same principle. Secured by Design is the official UK Police flagship initiative supporting the concept of ‘designing out crime’. Focusing on crime prevention for homes and commercial premises, Secured by Design promotes the use of security standards for a wide range of applications and products which have been proven to achieve a reduction of crime risk by up to 75 per cent, by combining minimum standards of physical security and well-tested principles of natural surveillance and defensible space. Our objective is to reduce burglary and crime in the UK by designing out crime through physical security and processes. The Secured by Design can conduct their own security survey on their premises and look to update their security. Think with the mind of a burglar – if the premises look insecure to you, then they will also look insecure to a criminal. The technique used in all security surveying, regardless of the area or building, is called ‘onionpeeling’. This means that you start on the outside and work inwards, implementing security measures at each layer which aim to delay and deter the criminal, and to protect or remove any potential targets for crime. The Home Office, in collaboration with Secured by Design, the Association of Convenience Stores and the ABI, produced a free detailed guide on how to do your own security survey, which can be found at: www.securedbydesign.com/aware/business.aspx A few of the security measures available to jewellery outlets are: • Laminated glass: a type of safety glass that, in the event of attack, is held in place by an interlayer, typically of polyvinyl butyral (PVB), Think with the mind of a burglar – if the premises look insecure to you, then they will also look insecure to a criminal membership scheme includes member companies whose products have been awarded the ‘Police Preferred Specification’ status. This means their products have been tested to a high security standard and that the company has also been vetted. This is to ensure that the design of a building and its security features reduce the chance of burglary. There are many things jewellers can do to help prevent themselves from becoming a victim of crime. Jewellers between its two or more layers of glass. This interlayer keeps the layers of glass bonded even when broken, and its high strength prevents the glass from breaking up into large, sharp pieces. This produces a characteristic ‘spider web’ cracking pattern when the impact is not enough to completely pierce the glass. Using this on the front of your premises means that it takes longer for burglars to penetrate the premises. • Alarm systems: Remote signalling alarms send a signal to a commercial Alarm Receiving Centre (ARC), which will alert keyholders or the police that a response is required. Both the alarm installer and the ARC will have to be qualified to install this type of alarm and also be recognised by the police. National Security Inspectorate (NSI) and Security Systems and Alarms Inspection Board (SSAIB) will give you details of their member companies who operate in your locality. • Shutters: Solid shutters can attract graffiti, but we do encourage the use of a shutter screen, which sits behind the window to act as a further deterrent barrier. They also allow light spillage onto pavements where people walk at night, increasing safety. If external shutters are the only option, those with secure vision panels are preferable as they let shop light through and reduce the ‘steel canyon’ effect. Any graffiti or damage must be dealt with immediately. When choosing shutters, make sure they are certified to STS202 and LPS 1175. Front doors and entrances should also ideally be certificated to the standards that Secured by Design recommends, which are LPS 1175 and STS202. • Fog systems: If a burglar does manage to get past the laminated glass and shutter screen, a fog system should stop them from getting any further. These disorientate the burglar by filling your premises with a thick, heavy fog, so that they cannot see. For more advice on how to stop your business being a victim to burglars, visit Retail security Case study: fog systems Theft of equipment and assets is a problem that plagues businesses of any size, sector or specification; from boutique retailers to large distribution warehouses. Jewellers can usually hold assets worth hundreds of thousands of pounds and this can lead to stores becoming established hotspots for intruder crime. This is especially true if they lack the necessary deterrents and security solutions to help protect the business round-the-clock. Hounslow’s Om Sai Jewellers, for example, is no exception to the threat of opportunistic and calculated crime. If the business was to fall victim to an intruder violation, the impact on staff morale, insurance premiums, profits and overall business continuity would be severe. This is especially true given that the business is a small independent retailer, which relies on being able to open its doors every day to maintain customer momentum. The company was recently subjected to an intruder attack, which was capable of severely impacting the balance sheets and the livelihood of the business owners. Any event of this nature puts security technology to the test, and in this instance, Om Sai’s intruder alarm installation protected Crime online Links of London was recently forced to call upon the services of MarkMonitor, to develop a brand protection strategy to combat online brandjackers, such as counterfeiters and cybersquatters, who were driving traffic away from the brand’s genuine sites and impacting upon its ecommerce success and customer experience. The MarkMonitor team identified 750 cybersquatted sites that were siphoning traffic from Links of London, and 239 counterfeit ecommerce websites that were purchasing branded keywords. It reported the latter to the search engines, which removed the ads for violating search engine policies. These sites generated almost a million visits annually – traffic that should have been reaching the Links of London official website. the business from three assailants attempting to break in. To ensure Om Sai had a robust set of security weapons in its arsenal, ADT collaborated with security partner Bandit UK to install its innovative intruder prevention technology, Fog Bandit, along with CCTV and monitored intruder solutions for a three-pronged approach to security. The Fog Bandit system (pictured) works by projecting a six-metre impenetrable, yet harmless, fog to impede vision and disorientate intruders – all within two seconds. The fog rapidly screens stock, making break-ins and theft both a challenging and daunting prospect. When staff members became aware of the criminals in store, they immediately initiated the high-speed security system using their personal attack alarms, which are linked to the monitored intruder system. This triggered the Fog Bandit technology to screen display cabinets and the shop entrance, forcing the raiders to retreat back towards the front door and flee empty handed. This swift process neutralised the threat before it could develop and minimised asset loss and risk or trauma to staff and customers, ensuring the ordeal was over as quickly as it had started. 59 60 Retail security Intelligence and prevention For this retail security special, Michael Hoare provides an update on the work of SaferGems, and reinforces the value of this service in fighting crime B y now I hope most readers of Jewellery Focus will have heard of SaferGems, and if they are also members of the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) will have signed up to receive regular security alerts. Back in 2009 when we recognised there was a need for something extra to give crime detection in the jewellery sector a boost, we had no idea that some three years later we would be looking at such a resounding success. Nor did we realise that police numbers would be so badly strained by austerity measures, and our services so valued. But here we are in 2012 with fewer police and little sign of crime diminishing. If anything the dramatic fluctuations in the price of gold have made it more attractive to the dishonest. Whilst I have my own misgivings about the privatisation of security services, I think we have to be realistic about the world we live in and acknowledge that private sector initiatives are going to play an increasing role in crime prevention and detection. 59 reports from members that our alerts had prevented crimes against them or others. But it’s not all about data. It is the personal stories that make this work so rewarding. Take this recent anecdote that was related to me by one of our analysts, in his own words: “One of our members was in court a couple of weeks ago (for some unknown reason), when a Romanian man walked into court for a theft from a bookies. He was followed in by his mum and dad who were there to provide their innocent little cherub a bit of moral support, when our jeweller jumped up and shouted to security that he recognised mum from one of our alerts and that she was allegedly responsible for a jewellery theft this time last year. She was arrested by attending police officers and is now bouncing between various police forces across the north west and north east regions, being interviewed for numerous jewellery thefts.” It is this kind of personal involvement rather than technical wizardry that is at the root of SaferGems’ success, and of course I think we have to be realistic about the world we live in and acknowledge that private sector initiatives are going to play an increasing role in crime prevention The figures for January to June 2012 tend to bear this out. During that period 369 crimes and suspicious incidents were recorded by SaferGems (compared to 293 during the same time period in 2011); 79 alerts were circulated to industry (compared to 90 during the same time period in 2011); 60 alerts and analytical reports were provided to police (not recorded during 2011); and this led directly to seven arrests and two convictions. As important, if not more so, we received the many interactions with front line officers that are too numerous to list here. But before I turn to other matters it is worth saying that we have noticed members have a greater awareness of the threat of distraction/ sleight-of-hand offenders, and as a result we appear to be reducing the number of incidents where items are stolen. We advise that staff always have a last look inside gift boxes, especially when ‘customers’ leave the shop to get money etc. There has also been increased reporting of fraud, where thieves are attempting to purchase high value items from jewellers over the telephone with stolen credit cards. The advice to jewellers is to contact their banks prior to completion if they have any concerns about a suspect transaction. So much for intelligence, many jewellers are also more than a little confused about what physical security equipment is best for their particular type of business. The range of choice, the constant updates and the continuous technological advances make the possibilities even more bewildering when it comes to deciding which suit fits. However, there are some fundamental issues surrounding the standards that apply to safes, glass and alarms that cannot be ignored when choosing security equipment, and that is why we are once again working to bring jewellers an opportunity to put these standards to the test during our conference on loss prevention being held in October. The intention is to bring jewellers an agenda that explores the theory behind security standards, and gives some graphic, practical demonstrations. The event is being held at the Building Research Establishment (BRE) near Watford, which carries out research, consultancy and testing for the construction and built environment sectors. It is also a UKAS Accredited Testing Laboratory and its sister company, BRE Global, is an independent approvals body offering certification of fire, security and sustainability products and services. Where better to put security products to the test? The SaferGems website address is www.safergems.org and if you would like to take part in the October conference, please contact Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 62 Retail security Advancing security solutions Neil Matthews, vice president of Checkpoint Systems, considers advanced technology solutions that maintain the visual aesthetics and accessibility of shop displays, whilst protecting against jewellery theft L ast year’s Global Retail Theft Barometer, published by the Centre for Retail Research, showed that shoplifting, fraud, organised crime and administrative errors cost British retailers £4.9 billion in the 12 months to June this year. This figure underlines how tough tackling retail fraud is, and the importance of sophisticated response to the problem. Of course, one option for retailers is to keep all merchandise in cabinets under lock and key. However, in all likelihood, this would affect the shopper experience. Today’s timepoor consumer wants to look at and interact with products without having to wait for a shop assistant to find a key for a cabinet, which could prove a long wait when the store is busy. For jewellery retailers in particular, the aesthetic display of products is absolutely paramount. It’s for this reason developments that allow stores to display high-value goods safely and attractively, in an open environment, are proving crucial. By enhancing the shopper experience, the solutions can lead to increased sales and profits for retailers. Earrings, necklaces and bracelets Advanced technology includes tags that not only attach to packaging, but also to the item of jewellery. Hardened steel hooks prevent the tag being removed with scissors, while a plastic coating ensures the hook doesn’t scratch jewellery. Stealing an item is therefore far more difficult, because thieves aren’t able to separate it from its packaging, and forcibly removing the tag is likely to damage the item, rendering it useless. This solution is also only minimally visible on-shelf, because it attaches to the item or to the back of the earring card, allowing expensive brand pack designs to continue serving their merchandising purpose. Furthermore, because the solution is low profile, it has almost no impact on the overall presentation of the jewellery, or the amount of products that can be displayed on a rack. Preventing theft Because items of jewellery are usually small, easy to conceal and tend to have a high resale value, they are often targeted by thieves. Indeed, industry researchers have placed moderately priced jewellery (£15 to £150) consistently in the top five shrinkage category – which refers to inventory loss caused by crime or administrative error. Because the retail security industry is continually innovating, ways to tackle this are becoming increasingly advanced, both in the jewellery sector and beyond. The newest solutions for earrings, necklaces and bracelets – which attach to the jewellery and help prevent the reselling of stolen items – are also being developed for other types of merchandise, such as rings and watches. And, while the latest Global Retail Theft Barometer contains the alarming £4.9 billion figure, it also contains clues as to how retail fraud can be successfully tackled. For instance, the report shows the loss prevention methods taken by retailers that have managed to reduce shrinkage rates. There were certain commonalities among the top 50 global retailers that responded to the survey and had cut shrinkage. They had worked across their operations to combat employee theft, shoplifting and administrative errors. Some 96 per cent had used audit programmes to monitor their loss prevention policies; and perhaps most importantly, they had increased their loss prevention spending to almost twice the global average. Industry researchers have placed moderately pric ed jewellery consistently in the top five shrinkage category Furthermore, the study reveals that nearly all retailers are very much alert to the problem of shrinkage, with 95 per cent of respondents saying they have trained staff in detecting shoplifting and close to 90 per cent planning to carry out further training. Despite the clear challenge shrinkage poses for retailers, a combination of more advanced technology, an increasing awareness of the problem and a readiness to tackle it will mean retailers can protect profits and ensure their success. Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 Retail security 64 Are you listening? Stephen Murphy, service manager at Stanley Security Solutions, argues the case for adopting audio verification alarms in a retail environment I f you want police response to an intruder alarm, the monitored alarm system must be verified; one detector going into alarm is not adequate to generate a police response. The options There are three distinct methods of verification: visual, sequential and audio verification. Visual alarm verification utilises a CCTV system to ‘look’ at what is happening. It gives you a lot of instant information but comes at a price, especially if your premises don’t already have a CCTV system. At the other end of the spectrum, and the lowest cost option, is sequential verification. This relies purely on the intruder alarm system and no additional equipment. Even if one detector in the system is activated, a confirmed alarm will not be generated until a detector of different technology in the same area or alternatively a detector in a different room/area is activated. The theory is that a person walking through an area will naturally trigger more than one detector, but a bright car headlamp or other heat source is unlikely to. The main downside here is that no real information is gleaned from this system as to what the cause of the alarm might be. The third option, which sits in between visual and sequential verification in terms of security level and cost, is audio verification. This involves listening to the ambient noise in the area where an alarm has been generated. You can glean a lot of information very quickly from simply listening; a breaking window, for example, is rarely a good sign! Also, unlike the other systems, an audio system isn’t dependent on line of sight. With audio verification systems, the on-site equipment, including the audio sensors, are extremely unobtrusive and are less likely to be noticed by an intruder than a CCTV camera. As a result, audio verification is the most likely system out of the three to result in catching a crime in progress – particularly welcomed by the police. The intruder is unaware that he or she has been detected, but also often gives away a lot more information by audio. A recent Stanley internal annual apprehension report showed that 35 per cent of intruders came in through a door; 26 per cent through a window; 25 per cent through unconventional entry points (wall or ceiling); and 14 per cent failed entry altogether. It is unlikely visual and sequential verification systems would have been able to detect the latter two, meaning that nearly 40 per cent of these illegal intrusions would not have been apprehended if audio verification had not been deployed. As police forces in England and Wales face cuts in central funding in the next two years of four per cent and then five per cent, using police resources wisely is all the more essential. Ensuring police are only called to the genuine scene of a crime – and not a false alarm – is vital, as is the ability to provide genuinely useful information to allow them to allocate resources and direct officers on the ground to specific locations. Audio alarm verification, especially with detection incorporated into the system, is an affordable and highly efficient means of achieving this. We hope people sit up and listen! Stephen Murphy is responsible for Stanley Security Solutions’ service provision for all customers across the south of England, including managing the 60 service engineers employed in just the south region by the company. He has extensive experience in the security sector, having joined the industry in 1996. For more information about alarm verification and monitoring services from Stanley Security Solutions, please call 0844 254 0032 or go to Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 66 TAKING STOCK ¬¬ An expert in jewellery industry security, Associated Security Solutions is offering Jewellery Focus readers a free security audit. The company is a jewellery insurance approved supplier comprised of a team of experienced safe engineers and locksmiths, and has been established for 75 years. It can supply, deliver and install a full range of security solutions such as safes, locks and access control systems. Managing director Stephen Turner says: “Thanks to our extensive knowledge and experience of working with the jewellery industry, we can advise and provide bespoke solutions to ensure jewellery businesses have an appropriate and robust system for protecting their staff, customers and stock from the threat of crime.” Information: 0800 163 212 or email@example.com ¯¯ G F Williams has found that rare and fine items are selling quickly. The company explains: “The mid-range consumer is looking for quality and value, [and] with our deep stock holding we can offer our clients a broad choice of stones on approval to enable this type of sale. We are travelling regularly to supply markets to keep stocks up, and are continuing to invest in fine quality gems.” Information: 0207 405 5547 or www.gfwilliams.co.uk Tony Greene of 21 ¬¬ ±± Takin Taking stock Century Silver is delighted with the response to the company’s new Limelight jewellery range: “It’s selling through so well that we have already doubled the size of the range,” he enthuses. Limelight is a non-silver, rhodiumplated range of stylish earrings and matching pendants, which the company says is affordable and virtually tarnish free. Information: 0208 339 3731 or firstname.lastname@example.org st ±± Established in 1977 and regulated by the Financial Services Authority, GJIS Limited provides a range of specialist general and disability insurance products, designed to protect the needs of companies and individuals involved with high value stock or personal possessions such as jewellery. It is able to provide a rapid response service in all matters, be it claims, quotations, or advice on security and risk management, and offers first-hand knowledge of the insurance problems facing the jewellery trade. Information: www.insuranceforjewellers.co.uk September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS TAKING STOCK ¯¯ Specialising in eternity rings, Eternity Range has been producing handmade pieces for over 10 years, using high quality G/VS diamonds and fine coloured gemstones. Eternity Range’s portfolio contains over 90 different styles, and the company is also able to offer a bespoke design service to accommodate specific customer requests. Information: 0207 831 8573, email@example.com or www.eternityrange.co.uk ¯¯ Amanda Cox Jewellery’s Rose Collection, popular for bridal wear, features three sizes of rose, fashioned into an array of co-ordinating jewels including necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets and pendants. The pieces can be plain or adorned with freshwater pearls, and are available in both polished and oxidised finishes for both modern and vintage looks. Information: 01422 842 446 or www.amandacoxjewellery.co.uk ±± ¯¯ PH Wedding Rings has been manufacturing since the 1960s, and says that it offers a wealth of experience; swift turnaround; promised dispatch times; competitive pricing; close attention to market trends; and committed, knowledgeable staff. The company’s new fully interactive website also allows for 24/7 access to pricing. Information: 0208 203 1919, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.phrings.com Sphere of Life is an innovative silver and fashion jewellery brand created to be the perfect gift. The spherical pieces are inspired by themes such as love and friendship. Each design has a special meaning and, together with its unique packaging, makes a gift for any occasion. This year Sphere of Life launched its ‘Mosaic’ collection, comprised of collectable icons that come with a selection of bracelets. Find Sphere of Life at stand 4G60 in Hall 4 of the Autumn Fair. Information: 0207 831 8860, email@example.com or www.sphereoflife.com ¬¬ Quality Castings has over 40 years’ experience in lost wax casting. Its range includes jewellery; antique reproduction; corporate advertising items; musical instrument pieces; badges; logos; miniatures; and many engineering applications. All metals, from aluminium to palladium, are cast by the company, and almost anything can be reproduced using its lost wax precision casting method. Information: 0207 729 3041, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.quality-castings.co.uk G McKenzie presents ‘Virtue Exquisite’ – “a range of stunning sterling silver jewellery manufactured to the highest level by skilled jewellers in Italy.” There are five finishes in the collection: rhodium; black rhodium; gold; rose gold; and chocolate gold. The full collection will be on show at this year’s Autumn Fair on Stand 4G04/H05. Information: 0208 343 2828 or email@example.com Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 67 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 70 TAKING STOCK ¯¯ ¯¯ Quantum Industries Ltd’s origins can be traced back as far as 1899 and, over 100 years later, the company is still offering high quality display furniture. Quantum offers a wealth of experience in traditional manufacturing methods and utilises the latest in modern tooling and design technology, offering bespoke design and manufacturing services to ensure its clients receive products that are individual to them. Information: 01603 789 000, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.quantum-ind.co.uk A manufacturer and wholesaler of gold diamond, CZ, Celtic and Claddagh jewellery, DPL International was established in 1993. “We have since developed a reputation for excellent quality and exceptionally competitive prices,” says the company, which also invests considerable time in market research to ensure the latest trends are sourced and customers are kept satisfied. Information: 028 8675 1246 or www.dplinternational.co.uk Following on from the success of its eternity ring range, Andre Michael Ltd now offers the range in silver and CZ. Point of sale materials will be made available over the coming months, making for an easily marketable range of eternity rings, which are also available in nine carat, 18 carat, palladium and platinum. Information: 0207 430 1122 or email@example.com ¬¬ With 40 years of experience in diamond manufacturing and trading, Shrenikstar offers a wide range of polished diamonds in all shapes and colours. The company specialises in 0.005pts up to 15 carats in qualities from IF to PQ3 in all colours from D to Z. Natural fancy colours are also offered, both with and without certificates. GIA, HRD and IGI certificates are additionally available, mainly in sizes from 0.30pts up to 15 carats. Information: 0032 3233 5916 or firstname.lastname@example.org ¯¯ London-based Noble Gift Packaging provides companies with modern and fashionable packaging. Offering experienced consultants in brand creation, it also boasts a custom designed and bespoke department, which works with customers to design and create their own branding. Noble operates to ISO 9001:2008 standards and offers a multilingual customer support team so that worldwide customers are dealt with in a competent and proficient manner. Information: 0208 805 4111 Gema Uk is an established wholesale jewellery supplier specialising in 925 sterling silver, rhodium-plated jewellery. Gema constantly develops and adds new lines of jewellery to its classic collection, seeking out the best jewellery from all over the world to bring the latest trends and designs. The company’s lines range from ladies clip-on charms and bangles to earrings, body jewellery, lockets and men’s jewellery. Information: email@example.com September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 TAKING STOCK Central-Scotland-based Winski’s of Kinross is a busy high ¬¬ street shop that specialises in professionally converting old mechanical watches to modern battery/quartz movements – particularly where the old watch is beyond economical repair, or its parts are obsolete. Watches with great sentimental value can be worn again; looking the same and keeping perfect time. Trade enquiries are welcome. Information: 01577 864 259 or www.quartzconversions.co.uk Whether you require plain or deep engraved signet rings, with 45 years’ experience, Dexter Seal Engraving manufactures and engraves classic rings of fine quality. Traditional, diestamped signets are available in all precious metals in an assortment of head sizes and shapes. All plain signets are made to order and ready for a quick dispatch. Information: 01580 241 680 or www.dexterrings.com/trade ±± 72 ¬¬ Niagara Falls Castings (UK) Ltd this year celebrates its 40th anniversary. Since 1972 it has supplied the jewellery and silverware trades in the UK and abroad with fine castings in precious metals. In recent years the company has invested in computer aided design and manufacturing technology, enabling it to provide a complete service from design, to wax model, to casting. Information: 01926 496 258, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.nf-castings.co.uk ±± Ian Dunford Ltd has launched a unique range of silver diamond jewellery in its new 2012/13 catalogue, utilising a process that took three years to develop. Each piece of sterling silver in the Diamond Fascination Collection incorporates a genuine diamond and is paved with diamond dust, crystallised in enamel and platinum plated, resulting in a genuine diamond accent product. The collection features lockets, bangles, bracelets, earrings and pendants. Information: 0113 246 1656 or email@example.com R M Weare & Company Ltd has grown to become one of Britain’s most prominent suppliers of high-quality diamonds and precious and semi-precious gemstones. The company prides itself on being a ‘one stop shop’ for the full A to Z of commercially used gemstones in the repair and manufacturing of jewellery, whilst providing a same day turnaround on all phone orders and matching jobs. Information: 01904 693 933, firstname.lastname@example.org or www.rmweare.com ± Cad-Man offers high quality manufacturing ± services and stl files to retailers, manufacturers and designer-makers. The company says that its team members are experienced and able to undertake any project and complete it to a high standard. Cad-Man’s catalogue of designs offers savings against the cost of ‘over the counter’ mounts. Information: 0207 430 1317 or www.cad-man.co.uk September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 74 WATCH FOCUS Swatch has collaborated with musician-comeproducer-come-DJ Moby to produce a limited edition watch entitled ‘Little Idiot’. The watch is a limited edition of 7,777 pieces and is designed with prints of Moby’s hand-drawn ‘Little Idiot’ character. The plastic and silicone surfaces of the timepiece are coloured a rich blue, while the character is outlined in white. Explaining his design inspirations, Moby said: “I started drawing cartoon characters in the mid 80s when I worked in an underground record store [and] one of my jobs was to draw the cartoons on the bags. Working with Swatch on this project provided an interesting opportunity to give new context to the ‘Little Idiot’ drawings, and I really love the finished result.” Information: 0845 296 2448 RRP: £63.50 September 2012 Each of O.D.M’s DD133 illumi+ Series watches is equipped with a ‘free switch’ function, which allows it to be picked up and worn instantly. Its LED display is set amidst solid and vivid fluorescent colours in a classic-looking, modern design. The DD133 illumi+ Series is available in black, brown, purple, purplish-red, fluorescent pink, orange, yellow, blue, and green. Information: email@example.com RRP: £89 Watch focus Embodying the visions of Max and Lubov Azria, BCBGMAXAZRIA’s timepieces are functional, chic, and designed to instil ambition and confidence in the women who wear them. The brand’s Elite Sport Automatic boasts a prominent square case, designed to make a statement, while an enamel bezel is offered in two colour-ways on a rubber link bracelet. The skeletal dials are there to add an extra dimension and a touch of attitude to the watch and wearer alike. Strobe, the latest launch by watch brand Limit, is a unique timepiece with LED lightshow technology. Available in five colours – black, white, pink, purple and navy – the watch flashes through a spectrum of colours at the touch of a button using unique LED technology, creating a lightshow effect on the wrist of the wearer. The watches are available in two sizes (37mm and 45mm diameter cases) on a splashproof silicone strap. Information: 01628 770 988 Information: www.limitwatches.co.uk RRP: £135 RRP: £24.99 Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS A day at the Office Laser marking In this month’s instalment of the Birmingham Assay Office’s series looking at the challenges faced by its experts on a daily basis, our attention turns to the potential of modern-day laser marking O ne of the bonuses of working at the Birmingham Assay Office is that it is impossible to predict exactly what will happen next! Every now and then a small piece of history crosses the threshold without warning and stretches the experts that little bit further. An Olympic-sized challenge arrived in early July – two sterling silver batons, both to be marked with the Union Jack, and one with the American flag and one with the Jamaican flag. Both batons also needed a full Diamond Jubilee hallmark and an inscription. The urgent request came from local Birmingham silversmith L J Millington, which had just received a commission from the City of Birmingham to create unique civic gifts for the two Olympic athletics teams training in Birmingham; quite an honour, and a moment to be relished by the experts in the laser marking room at the Birmingham Assay Office, where Julie Burns, senior laser marker, Suki Singh (pictured below) and the rest of the team are continually pushing the boundaries of what can be accomplished by their fleet of laser machines. Applying hallmarks by laser was pioneered in the late 1990s, when the steady increase in foreign imports of finished lightweight and hollow goods rendered traditional hallmarking methods inappropriate for some items. Furthermore, many importers did not have the facilities to refinish items after hallmarking. Striking a mark with a punch, however expertly handled, will inevitably cause displacement of metal or ‘bruising’, and can seriously damage a product that is hollow. Finished items are more difficult to mark than traditional castings, needing a highly polished bed to support the article and therefore reduce the impact of the mark being punched. From a cautious beginning, laser hallmarking has truly found its niche, particularly as soaring precious metals drive manufacturers to make lighterweight products to hit affordable price points. The laser process exerts no physical pressure on the item, but burns the mark into the metal using a laser beam with pinpoint accuracy. Tiny gem-set rings with hollow shoulders, lightweight bangles that would cave in under even gentle pressure from a fly press, and spindly earring posts can all be hallmarked by laser without damage to the product. Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 77 78 A day at the Office FOCUS ON THE EXPERTS The only finishing required after laser marking is the removal of the ‘soot’ or burn mark, which is carried out in the laser room; and in the current struggle to be competitive, this benefit is being exploited by local manufacturers as well as importers as it cuts out the refinishing stage of the process, reducing labour costs and speeding up delivery times. The laser room at the Birmingham Assay Office is now equipped with a battery of laser machines and can respond to any request, from tiny marks on a pendant bale to a large, traditional, full spread mark on a piece of silver. The initial reaction to laser marks back in the 1990s was that they did not look like a ‘proper hallmark’, but experience and further investment has overcome this. The ‘deep relief ’ laser mark is created by burning away the metal surrounding the mark as opposed to burning in the mark itself, and this option is now widely used for hallmarking large silverware. The size, depth and style of the mark can be changed by the operator adjusting variable controls on the laser if required. Before a mark can be applied by laser for the first time it has to be created as a piece of artwork for the software system. This is relatively simple for a straightforward hallmark, but as the demand for non-statutory laser marking grows it has become significantly more complicated. The preparation of good artwork is very important as a sharp, high-quality mark can only be created from a clean graphic with the appropriate level of detail. Suki Singh, senior laser marker, has spent hundreds of hours experimenting and developing increasingly complicated artwork and is now confident that anything is possible. As the team offers laser marking to a wider, non-hallmarking market, the skill of the experts becomes more and more important. In developing the artwork for the flags on the silver batons, Suki faced an obvious challenge: how to create an instantly recognisable miniature rendition of the colourful Jamaican, American and British flags in monochrome – and on a curved surface. Meticulous preparation of the artwork overcame this as he carefully filled different areas of the flag with cross hatchings in different directions and density, and also varied the number of passes to add a feeling of texture. Suki’s portfolio of artwork contains a wide variety of examples as customers use the benefits of laser marking to add value to their products. There are logos for wellrespected brands such as Fortnum and Mason; and designer signatures and a range of crests and badges for ceremonial ware also benefit from the versatility of laser marking. And the non-statutory work is not all one-offs; in the last two years a huge volume of commemorative coins and other memorabilia to mark the Royal Wedding, the Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics have flowed through the laser room. Some of these were limited editions, requiring sequential numbering and very tight control, while others required the careful application of logos and inscriptions. Julie and her team believe laser marking still has great potential, particularly as their skills in producing more and more complex graphics continue to develop. They are all looking forward to the next challenge, whatever it may be. Supervisor of the Laser Room Julie Burns has worked at the Birmingham Assay Office ever since she left school and has 35 years’ experience of hallmarking. Julie’s skills and expertise as an accomplished hand marker and highly competent fly press operator have prepared her well for the challenges of the Laser Marking department. She has huge knowledge, making daily judgements as to the size and positioning of the mark, and deciding on the best method to mark tricky pieces. Supported by senior laser marker Suki Singh, who specialises in creating the complex graphics required, Julie leads a team of dedicated laser operators who boast a further half a century of laser marking experience between them. Supernova laser The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over nearly 240 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade it has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion and training on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 SELLING 80 Creating value There are many ways that you can create desire of ownership during the demonstration stage of the sale, as Brad Huisken explains L ast month I introduced the concept of creating added value in the products you sell. One way you can do this is through your handling of the merchandise. If you treat your products like they are worth a million pounds, your customers will feel the added value. On the other hand if you treat your merchandise like it isn’t worth anything, your customers will feel like it isn’t worth anything. Always pick up the jewellery with two hands; if you hand the merchandise to the prospect with two hands, they will accept it with two hands. This small gesture creates a lot of value in the merchandise, and as we have already discussed, almost everything is too expensive before value has been established. If you treat your products like they are worth a million pounds, your customers will feel the added value September 2012 An air of mystery Another strategy you can use to enhance the value of your products and services is to create mystery in them. With a product that is small and easy to pick up such as jewellery, watches or collectibles, you should take the merchandise out of the case and immediately put it under the polishing cloth. While you are polishing the piece, deliver your first FBA (features, benefits and agreement – see last month’s article). While the piece is covered and you are delivering your first FBA, your prospect is thinking: “Show it to me”. This creates more value and a desire of ownership in the product. The third wheel I am sure you have experienced situations when your prospect has brought along his or her ‘third wheel’. Some people call this the ‘mother-inlaw syndrome’, or the expert who kills the deal. You know who I’m talking about – that additional person who was brought along as an advisor in the purchase, and the one your prospect looks to for advice in decision-making. This person could therefore become your best friend or worst enemy during your sales presentation, and so naturally you will want him or her on your side. The easiest way to do this is to involve them with your question response statement in the needs assessment step, and give them the agreement question during the demonstration. For example: “One of the great things about this beautiful ring is that it has a six-prong platinum head, which makes the diamond extremely secure. That is a very important consideration for your friend, don’t you agree?” Now you have them involved in the presentation process and they have fulfilled their duty to their friend and your prospect. Above all, never discount the third wheel’s importance to the prospect – they were brought along for a reason, so make them a partner, not a roadblock. Choosing your words There are many powerful words in the English language that can capture attention and create value with their use. The more powerful your words are, the more powerful your presentation will be. Is there a difference between a ‘piece of jewellery’, a ‘fine piece of jewellery’, or an ‘exquisite piece of jewellery’? Just as you create added value with the way you handle your products, you create added value with the words that you use to describe them. In any type of advertising you will find dozens of powerful words – these are messages designed to get people’s attention, and that is exactly what your job is in the demonstration step. Be warned, however: while it might seem impressive to spout off industry jargon, if your prospect doesn’t understand the exact meaning of the words, you could lose out. In most cases they won’t stop you and ask what a word means; they will simply tell you that they need to think about it, and leave. The sole reason you lost the sale could be that they simply didn’t understand what you were saying to them and didn’t want to embarrass themselves by asking! It is up to you to make your presentation understandable for everyone. If the prospect has some knowledge about your products, you Jewellery FOCUS The more powerful your words are, the more powerful your presentation will be can speak using more technical words, but if they don’t, then the best advice is to keep it simple. In cases where you have to use technical words, be certain that you completely define the meaning of what you are saying. Don’t leave anything to chance or make any assumptions that may cause your prospect to be confused, or your presentation to be misunderstood. Save your best As they say, sometimes it is good to save the best for last, so be aware that if you give everything you have right up front, you leave yourself nothing to come back to. If an objection is raised later in the presentation, you may need to create more value, and this would be the time to pull out the big guns: your most powerful FBA question. It may be a 10-year warranty; a company story; a money-back guarantee; 90-days no interest; or a free year of service – determine what your most powerful features and benefits are, and put them in reserve. Remember, your customer can get the product almost anywhere, so in many cases you need to tell them why they should purchase it from you and your company. Author, trainer, consultant and speaker Brad Huisken is president of IAS Training and authored the books and . He developed the PMSA Relationship Selling Program, the PSMC Professional Sales Management Course, the Mystery Shoppers Kit, the Employee Handbook and Policy & Procedures Manual, and the Weekly Sales Training Meeting series, along with aptitude tests and proficiency exams for new hires, current sales staff and sales managers, and the new Weekly Internet Sales Training Series. In addition, he publishes a free weekly newsletter called Sales Insight. For a free subscription or more information, contact IAS Training on 001 800 248 7703, or Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 DATA 82 Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: June 2012 In June 2012 all retailing sales volumes were estimated to have increased 1.6 per cent when compared to June 2011. Over the same period all retail sales values were estimated to have increased by 1.9 per cent. Non-seasonally-adjusted data shows that small stores fared better than large stores, with sales values at small stores estimated to have increased by 4.1 per cent when compared with June 2011. Large stores were estimated to have increased by 1.2 per cent. The implied deflator, which provides an estimate of the prices of goods sold or store price inflation, slowed to 0.3 per cent – down from 1.2 per cent in May. In the five-week period from 27 May to 30 June, the total, non-seasonally-adjusted amount estimated to have been spent was £32.7 billion – up from £26.4 billion in the four-week period of May 2012 and £32.1 billion in June 2011. This figure equates to an average weekly spend of £6.5 billion in June, down from £6.6 billion in May 2012 and up from £6.4 billion in June 2011. Metal Prices £/Unit Jun 12 Jul 12 Aug 12 % Change Sterling Silver £/Kg 549.76 525.46 528.63 Plus 1% Gold £/g 33.27 32.90 33.13 Plus 1% Palladium £/g 12.87 12.06 11.96 Minus 1% Platinum £/g 30.04 29.83 28.83 Minus 3% Rhodium £/g 26.02 25.83 23.75 Minus 8% Iridium £/g 22.58 22.41 22.14 Minus 1% Ruthenium £/g 2.40 2.39 2.38 No Change Scrap Metal £/Unit Jun 12 Jul 12 Aug 12 % Change Sterling Silver Scrap £/Kg 516.18 493.36 496.34 Plus 1% 9ct Gold Scrap £/g 12.04 11.90 11.99 Plus 1% 14ct Gold Scrap £/g 18.78 18.57 18.70 Plus 1% 18ct Gold Scrap £/g 24.08 23.81 23.98 Plus 1% 22ct Gold Scrap £/g 29.40 29.08 29.29 Plus 1% Platinum (95%) Scrap £/g 24.26 24.17 23.28 Minus 3% Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put Diamond prices The average weekly value for internet sales was estimated to be £493.3 million, meaning that the proportion of retail sales – excluding automotive fuel – made via the internet was 8.5 per cent. Weight G/VVS G/SI J/VVS J/SI J/I1 0.05 Carat 1,808 995 1,248 904 796 0.10 Carat 1,736 1,108 1,674 992 744 0.25 Carat 2,806 1,550 2,345 1,318 899 0.50 Carat 7,642 3,446 4,870 2,997 2,547 0.75 Carat 9,404 5,642 6,149 4,196 3,328 1.00 Carat 16,601 8,789 11,073 7,115 4,604 Source: ONS Stay informed... Visit for daily metal prices The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy. Compiled at 26th July 2012/Dollar Exchange Rate 1.5483 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Hallmark figures - June 2012 Jun 11 Jun 12 Variance % 1,134 386 485,952 30 487,502 1,036 628 388,394 875 390,933 -98 242 -97,558 845 -96,569 -8.6 62.7 -20.1 2816.7 -19.8 51 0 30,742 81,938 8,995 255,158 376,884 4 0 27,187 68,197 5,566 262,475 363,429 -47 0 -3,555 -13,741 -3,429 7,317 -13,455 -92.2 0 -11.6 -16.8 -38.1 2.9 -3.6 5 21,820 14 2 21,841 5 23,291 34 2 23,332 0 1,471 20 0 1,491 0 6.7 142.9 0 6.8 8,747 1,041 9,788 1 10,400 1,676 12,077 1 1,653 635 2,289 100 18.9 61 23.4 896,015 789,771 -106,244 -11.9 Silver 999 958 925 800 Gold 999 990 916 750 585 375 Platinum 999 950 900 850 Palladium 999 950 500 Total The number of items hallmarked by the four UK assay offices was down 11.9 per cent in July 2012, compared to the same month in 2011. The number of gold articles hallmarked is continuing to improve with just a small 3.6 per cent decline compared to 2011. The total number of sterling silver items hallmarked was 20.1 per cent down, whilst the numbers of platinum and palladium articles marked were up 6.8 and 23.4 per cent respectively. Source: Birmingham Assay Office Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 84 Directory AMBER JEWELLERY BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING CASTING BEADS CAD/CAM BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING Want to advertise in the Directory? Then call Jewellery Focus now on 01206 767 797 September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Directory CASTINGS & FINDINGS CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY DIAMONDS DIAMOND MOUNTS DIAMOND SETTINGS CHARMS DIAMOND & JEWELLERY CERTIFICATE CLOCK DISTRIBUTORS DIAMONDS DIAMOND JEWELLERY Want to advertise in the Directory? Then call Jewellery Focus now on 01206 767 797 Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 85 86 Directory DIAMOND SETTINGS ENGRAVERS GEMSTONES GEMSTONES DISPLAY CABINETS & COUNTERS GEMSTONES Gold and silver jewellery ENAMELLERS September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS Directory JEWELLERS TOOLS JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS JEWELLERY REPAIRS 87 PEARLS, CULTURED PERSONALISED JEWELLERY JEWELLERY EQUIPMENT JEWELLERY POLISHERS RESTRINGING JEWELLERY REPAIRS PEARLS, CULTURED JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS RING SIZE GAUGES F O R R I N G S T H A T F I T PACKED IN COLOUR INSTRUCTION ENVELOPES “Can you afford to leave one out of your mailing?” www.multisizers.com Tel 01481 253244 Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 Directory 88 SCRAP PURCHASE SHOPFITTING SHOPFITTING TROPHIES & MEDALS SECURITY WATCH REPAIRS SILVER JEWELLERY SECURITY Repair Services Is your Rolex watch bracelet stretched and worn? bqw rolex specialist At BQ Watches we can make it look brand NEW We now specialise in the repair and refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets Call now for a FREE Quotation 020 8731 2566 www.bqwatches.com Want to advertise in the Directory? Then call Jewellery Focus now on 01206 767 797 September 2012â€‰ Jewellery FOCUS Directory WATCH REPAIRS WEDDING RINGS RECRUITMENT Want to advertise in the Directory? Then call Jewellery Focus now on 01206 767 797 Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 89 90 Your Views Voice on the highstreet John Doble, owner of Doble Jewellers and Pona Pero, Torbay Could you tell us about the history of Doble Jewellers? Doble is a family business that started in 1918 when my grandfather, Alfred Golesworthy, opened a shop in Ottery St Mary. My father Ivor Doble and his brother, my uncle Roy Doble, both married into the Golesworthy family. My uncle opened three shops in Cornwall and my father opened outlets in Bristol, Newton Abbott and Exeter, where he still runs two of them to this day! I spent four years at jewellery college but didn’t start my empire until I was 28, choosing first to teach extreme sports in France, USA, Norway and Africa. How is Torquay as a place to do business? Is there much competition? Since you first came into the business, what is the biggest change you’ve noticed within the independent jewellery sector? The biggest change, in my opinion, is that customers are far more demanding and aggressive; the trend to sue for any perceived mistake is rife. Also, I feel that bad language is employed far too easily. You have recently expanded into online retailing; do you feel this move represents changing times for independent jewellery retailers? We have separate sites for both Doble and Pona Pero and feel that they both serve the retail side very well. You cannot stay still in this industry and we are always searching for new ideas and new ways to serve the public. There are lots of jewellery shops in Torquay; I myself have three shops in Torbay – two called Doble and one called Pona Pero. To stand out we aim for a younger audience with Pona Pero (named, incidentally, by using the first two letters of each of my children’s names) and always try to give amazing service with a smile. What do you enjoy most about working in the jewellery industry? Which products are selling well at the moment? In 2018 I would like us to still be trading, with another member of the family sitting in this very hot seat! Our family is still represented by seven shops and, with my shop mortgages having finished in May, we are looking forward to a very prosperous next few years. Chamilia sells very well in Pona Pero and, because customers want value, pre-owned Rolex and Omega watches. September 2012 I enjoy nice customers and good conversation. I also enjoy my skills of recognising and restoring antique jewellery; just recently I was able to inform a man about the history of his necklace, how it was made and where he bought it! Where do you see Doble Jewellers in its centenary – 2018? Jewellery FOCUS Jewellery FOCUS September 2012 Jewellery FOCUS September 2012