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Jewellery September 2011  www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk  £5.95  ISSN 2046-7265

FOCUS

Adapting to the changing silver market, and predictions for its future XX Children’s jewellery designs to cater to a new generation of customers XX Also inside: IJL 2011 show guide, including floor plan and exhibitor list

eternityrange the original specialists

Fine quality handmade eternity rings Innovative new styles & classic favourites, with over 90 designs in stock Bespoke design ser vice Friendly and experienced team

We can visit you at your premises. To book an appointment with one of our team call: 0207 831 8573 5 Hatton Place, London EC1N 8RU e-mail: info@eternityrange.co.uk www.eternityrange.co.uk

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CONTENTS

Jewellery

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FOCUS

September 2011 FEATURES A silver lining 

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Rebecca Hoh-Hale speaks to silver jewellery suppliers to find out how they have been coping with rising costs, and what their predictions are for the future

A career in colour 

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Harry Waight catches up with gemmologist and jewellery expert Denis Bellessort to find out about his fascinating career and recently-launched new brand

IJL 2011 

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A handy show guide, including a floor plan and exhibitor list, to help you prepare for your visit to this year’s International Jewellery London event

Creative inspiration 

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With IJL 2011 promising to be packed with products to excite the professional buyer, the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton picks out a few of the design highlights

Focus on children’s jewellery 

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Bold, bright and colourful, jewellery for children remains a booming sector. Jon Chapple explores some of this season’s latest trends

Safety first 

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Russell Jones of Fidler & Pepper Solicitors provides some useful pointers for preventing and dealing with accidents in your store to avoid injury claims

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Regulars Editor’s letter  Roundup 

8 10

Janet Fitch 

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The latest news from the industry In preparation for the new season and upcoming jewellery and fashion events, Janet delivers some essential background trend information

Keith Fisher 

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Ones to watch 22

Trends in timepieces

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Syreeta catches up with Stylesight’s Sandrine Maggiani and Claire Foster as they prepare for their forthcoming trends seminar at IJL

Taking stock 

Feeling rather ashamed at his lack of awareness of a particularly spectacular watch brand, Keith rectifies the situation through research

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Syreeta Tranfield 

A bumper selection of new products in honour of IJL 2011

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Designer of the month

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Since early childhood, Pippa Small has been traversing the globe, developing interests in both human rights and traditional jewellery design, as Louise Hoffman discovers

How do they do that? 

This month, Dippal Manchanda explains how the pre-hallmark testing process has changed over the years, focusing especially on X-ray fluorescence

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Leonard Zell 

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Industry data  Events  Voice on the highstreet 

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Leonard reminds jewellers of the potential for transforming jewellery repair enquiries into valuable sales

Karim Merchant of Identity the Jewellers, Derby

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Editor’s letter A

s if the troubled economy wasn’t bad enough, without our fellow citizens smashing the place up in an attempt to protest against that very same situation… if indeed that was the motivation; alas, I suspect not. There’s no beating around the bush – the recent riots in London and elsewhere in the UK were an unwelcome and disturbing reflection of our society. Even if they were purely a demonstration of the vulnerability and demoralisation undoubtedly felt by the majority of the population, especially the younger generations, the choice of action was woefully inappropriate, only serving in compounding the problem. That said, a vulnerable person’s first reaction is often to lash out or put on a show of ‘strength’, so perhaps it is not entirely unsurprising. Anyway, I will close my analysis there, as I suspect I will end up trying to rationalise the irrational. Instead, let us at least focus on the positives – the communities that pulled together to help with the clean-up operation and restore order as much as they could; the support being offered and fundraising being conducted by organisations such as Retail Trust, to help those whose businesses were affected and in some cases destroyed by the rioting and looting; and the measures being implemented by the Government to ensure that those businesses are able to claim some compensation for the damage and fund repair work. Hopefully we can add another plus point to that list in the months and years to come – a real effort to reintroduce a sense of stability, belonging and care into UK communities. A big ask, but worth the effort. And while the retail sector was unfortunately the target of much of last month’s violence, I can’t help thinking it is also well placed to help bring about this change. Food for thought, perhaps… In the meantime, my thoughts are with those retailers who were affected by the riots – I cannot imagine the trauma you must be experiencing, and I hope you are all able to bring your businesses back to their former glory.

Jewellery FOCUS

Editor Louise Hoffman

louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Editorial Assistant Jon Chapple jon@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Production Assistant Lewis Bowes copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Group Advertisement Manager Kelly Smith kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Sales Executive Katie Thurgood

katie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Accounts Maureen Scrivener

accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk

Customer Services 01206 767 797

customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk

Contributing writers: Dippal Manchanda • Harry Waight Janet Fitch • Keith Fisher Leonard Zell • Lindsey Straughton Rebecca Hoh-Hale • Russell Jones Syreeta Tranfield Design Arthouse Publishing Solutions Ltd 01394 410 490 contact@arthousepublishing.co.uk

In support of:    

Jewellery Focus

This month’s cover features

ISSN 2046-7265 is published monthly by:

CHAMILIA

Founded in New York City in 2002, Chamilia was launched on the premise of putting jewellery design into the hands of the consumer. Now with over two years’ trading under its belt in the UK and Europe, the company continues to grow through the retail partnerships it has nurtured. Chamilia is launching two new collections for autumn/winter 2011 – Swarovski and Cabaret – which it says will be sure to complement the trends of the season. This month’s Jewellery Focus cover features the new Swarovski Collection, which includes 30 designs in sterling silver. “This timeless collection contains brilliant crystal Swarovski Elements in a stunning spectrum of colours. The designs are effortlessly classic, feminine and elegant, inspired by all the latest colour trends,” the company says. Information: 0844 811 2142, chamiliauk@chamilia.com, or IJL stand F121/E121

Mulberry Publications Ltd, Wellington House, Butt Road, Colchester CO3 3DA Tel: 01206 767 797 Fax: 01206 767 532 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement that they express in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the publishers. Articles are considered for publication on the basis that they are the author’s original work. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the permission of the publishers.

Levanter Large Lantern Pendant: £85

New Levanter Collection – Sterling Silver and Real Diamonds

Sterling Silver & Real Diamonds View our new AW11 collections, POS and packaging at the IJL show – Stand G130 Order our AW11 catalogue: email: cs@hdgroup.com Tel: 0118 975 3331 hotdiamonds.com

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ROUNDUP

And briefly Pandora sees “sharp deterioration” Mikkel Vendelin Olesen, the chief executive of Pandora, has resigned following a difficult period of tumbling revenues for the Danish jewellery giant. Share prices plunged from DKK 147.50 to DKK 50 (£17.27 to £5.85) on the release of the news, which has seen board member Marcello Bottoli take over the role in an interim capacity.

Kurt Geiger launches jewellery line High street footwear chain Kurt Geiger has moved into jewellery with the launch of Everything But The Dress – a new line of accessories that includes nearly 70 pieces of jewellery. The shoe giant stated that the project – which has been two years in the making – should make it a “one stop shop” for accessories.

IJL becomes RJC Supporter The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that International Jewellery London (IJL) has become an official Supporter of the Council. Commenting on the partnership, Syreeta Tranfield, the show’s co-director, said: “We support the Responsible Jewellery Council as we believe in promoting responsible social and environmental practices and supporting human rights throughout the industry, from mine to retail.”

Van Cleef & Arpels opens in Selfridges Renowned Parisian jeweller and watch- and perfume-maker Van Cleef & Arpels has opened its first boutique in London. Occupying a prime spot in Selfridges’ ground floor ‘Wonder Room’, the historic jewellery house said the new boutique – which has been furnished with dark wood and eau du nil carpeted floors, soft curtains and silk-satin-covered, Art Decoinspired furniture – “epitomises the sophisticated world of Van Cleef & Arpels.” The brand has created a special collection of jewellery, known as ‘Magic Alhambra’ and inspired by the vintage Alhambra necklace given to Grace Kelly by Prince Rainier of Monaco in the 1970s, to celebrate the partnership.

Cash Converters will co-operate with the Met Cash Converters has announced that it is to share information with London’s Metropolitan Police about gold and possible suspicious goods being brought into its stores. The second-hand goods chain revealed the measures in response to a rise in snatch thefts corresponding with increasing gold prices.

Image: Nico Hogg

Jewellers  hit  hard  by  August  riots Jewellery retailers in London and beyond have been left counting the cost after rioting devastated high streets across England in early August. Jewellery and watch businesses became targets for looters and vandals as gangs took to the streets in what the Metropolitan Police called “the worst [violence] in current memory.” Among the businesses known to have been attacked in London were two jewellers in Hackney, where much of the current wave of unrest began; one in Lewisham’s Lee South Road; one on Rye Lane in Peckham; one on Beckenham’s high street; and another in Enfield, which eyewitnesses described as being “cleaned out” by “a plague of locusts.” F Hinds’ Clapham Junction store also fell victim to looters, in spite of the efforts of a number of local residents who tried to defend the shop. The disorder also spread outside of the capital, however, with incidents reported by jewellers and other retailers as far afield as Bristol, Liverpool, Manchester, Wolverhampton and Birmingham before the violence subsided. The decision was made to close the latter’s historic Jewellery Quarter amid riot fears on the 9 August, with London’s Hatton Garden following suit not long after. Tottenham jeweller Steve Moore, who lost his shop in the violence on the 5 August, met with Deputy Prime Minister Nick Clegg to assess the damage done to Tottenham High Road. “I’m devastated,” he said. “It’s completely gone. My shop just doesn’t exist anymore.” The Prime Minister, who condemned the “mindless selfishness” of the rioters and promised to take “every action necessary to bring order back to our streets,” promised that businesses without insurance cover that suffered damages as a result of the unrest will be offered support under the Riot (Damages) Act of 1886. A special HM Revenue and Customs helpline set up to offer advice and allow businesses to re-negotiate payment schedules is also now live on 0845 366 1207, and Retail Trust has launched a fundraising campaign on Twitter, called #highstheroes, to support affected businesses.

UK remains“on growth track,” says Confederation of British Industry The UK economy will continue to grow in 2011, albeit at a sluggish rate, and will pick up modestly in 2012, according to the Confederation of British Industry’s (CBI) latest economic forecast. Despite the squeeze on household incomes from higher commodity prices and an erosion of business confidence, the CBI still expects the economy to grow by 1.3 per cent this year, compared to the 1.7 per cent forecast in May. GDP growth of 2.2 per cent is expected in 2012, unchanged from May’s forecast. “The economic outlook has become even more challenging, but we still expect the economy to continue to grow modestly this year and next,” explained John Cridland, CBI director general. “The global economy has slowed in the face of several shocks including the Japanese tsunami and soaring commodity prices. “These factors have combined with political uncertainties around the Eurozone sovereign debt crisis, the wrangling in Congress over the US debt ceiling and the policy tightening in China to erode confidence and soften activity. It may be a lacklustre recovery, but with solid net trade contributions and the positive impact of business investment, the UK will remain on a growth track.”

ROUNDUP

Industry ensures hallmarking survives Red Tape Challenge

Celebrity endorsement

Hallmarking will not be scrapped as part of the Government’s ‘Red Tape Challenge’, thanks to overwhelming support from the jewellery industry, the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills has confirmed. The initiative, first reported in May’s Jewellery Focus, sought to cut red tape around business by scrapping or simplifying regulations that may be considered “unnecessarily burdensome, overly-bureaucratic or completely redundant” by business and the public. However, the industry responded in force in favour of retaining hallmarking in its current form, and the regulation has now been endorsed by the Government as a “well-designed and valuable” one that has widespread support, and will therefore be retained in its existing form. Mark Prisk MP, the Minister of State for business and enterprise, said: “We are preserving good regulation, such as the hallmarking regime – for which there was strong support”. The Birmingham Assay Office, an early and vocal supporter of keeping hallmarking as it is, added: “We are strong believers in the trade working together for its own good, and the level of co-operation between the trade associations, trade press, buying groups and major retailers was extremely gratifying. “There was an unprecedented joint response, which carried significant weight and has resulted in the outcome which we believe to be right and proper – that independent UK hallmarking be retained in its existing rigorous form.”

Chloe Green, Tresor Paris

Gold price reaches record high Concerns over precious metal prices have increased yet further as gold hit record prices in excess of $1,750 (£1,070) per ounce in early August. As well as impacting on jewellery manufacturers and retailers, the situation called European and North American debt recovery plans into question. “Gold hit another milestone... as investors lose confidence in the ability of politicians to get a grip with the debt problems weighing down on sentiment,” Michael Hewson, from the CMC Markets trading group, told the BBC, adding that Image: Giorgio Monteforti “more advances look likely.” “I think our industry is paying the price for the speculation of global central banks who are buying up the gold as an investment,” commented Simon Rainer of the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA). “It’s a question of supply and demand – the higher the demand, the higher the price – and getting the right balance between investment and use as a manufacturing commodity.” Growth in the price of silver also resumed, reaching nearly $40 (£25) an ounce – the highest price for two months.

Tivon Fine Jewellery selected as Diamond Jubilee partner Tivon Fine Jewellery has been selected as one of the official partners of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations. The family-owned company will support the Army & Navy Club’s year-long campaign to celebrate HM the Queen’s 60th anniversary as Sovereign of the United Kingdom and her other realms and Head of the Commonwealth. Only organisations that have a “direct complementary association” have been selected to partner the Army & Navy Club’s calendar of events, which includes a launch event at the club’s Pall Mall headquarters next June. The Queen is a patron of the Club, and the Duke of Kent is its president. “We are proud and humbled to have been chosen to partner and participate in such a prestigious event,” said a statement from Tivon.

Topshop heiress Chloe Green graced the red carpet at the premiere of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows – Part 2 wearing a green Tresor Paris Bastille bracelet. She was accompanied by Ollie Locke from E4 reality soap opera Made in Chelsea; also reportedly a fan of Tresor Paris bracelets. The Bastille features crystal balls finished with hand-applied crystal and a variety of semi-precious stones. The stones include magnetite – known to be advantageous for asthma sufferers and good for the skin – and the bracelet is finished with a black Tibetan cord.

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ROUNDUP

High street recovery “cannot be left to chance,” says BRC Figures released last month demonstrating the rate of retail closures in different parts of the UK in 2011 so far demonstrate the importance of protecting and promoting our high streets, the British Retail Consortium (BRC) has said. The statistics, released by PriceWaterhouseCoopers and the Local Data Company, showed that poor consumer confidence and shrinking disposable incomes are having a negative impact on non-food retailers and exacerbating long-standing problems in some of Britain’s town centres. BRC director general Stephen Robertson said: “High streets are at the heart of local communities and economies, providing jobs and essential services, but some are in trouble. “The Government’s review of the high street comes at a crucial time, and must result in urgent action. Practical steps are needed to protect and promote our high streets so they remain attractive locations where businesses of all kinds can thrive. This cannot be left to chance. A proactive approach to managing our town centres would benefit customers, communities, retailers and other businesses. Priorities should include keeping business rates down, deterring crime and having good, affordable parking and public transport. “It’s encouraging that not all regions are seeing a fall in retail premises – some have seen a net gain thanks to new stores opening. The priority must be protecting that growth and helping it spread to all parts of the country, boosting town centres and creating jobs.”

£3 million collection of timepieces previewed by Leonard Dews Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe held a preview evening for a £3 million collection of luxury timepieces in the Lake District on the 12 July. The collection, which was flown in from Basel in Switzerland, was hosted by Lancashire jeweller Leonard Dews. The preview drew potential collectors and buyers from across the region, and featured a £106,000 diamond-set Nautilus gents’ watch with power reserve; a £96,940 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph watch set with baguette diamonds; and a new £22,000 ladies’ diamond and steel Nautilus timepiece. After previewing the collection, the 60 guests were treated to a four-course meal at the Miller Howe’s restaurant, which overlooks Lake Windermere. In a rare break with protocol, attendees were able to view the collection in its entirety; something usually restricted, as collections valued at more than £3 million are presented in different lots for security reasons. Leonard Dews owner Michael Hyman commented: “There is a strong demand for quality wrist watches in the region. I’m very excited to have brought this rare and exciting bounty to the Lake District.”

Management restructuring at Brown & Newirth British commitment ring manufacturer Brown & Newirth has announced a restructuring of its senior management team. Sales and business management will be led by newlyappointed sales director John Ball (pictured) – formerly national sales manager at CW Sellors and DMJ – while Amber Saunders and David Heatlie have been appointed as head of marketing and business development manager covering Scotland, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, respectively. “I’m excited by the opportunities that Brown & Newirth offers,” John commented, “and I’m looking forward to being part of the new management team that is focusing on re-energising Brown & Newirth for today’s market.” Abbeycrest chairman Simon Ashton added: “With John Ball’s sales expertise and Amber Saunders’ marketing skills, we have a progressive team that can lead Brown & Newirth into the future.”

Life begins at 50 for Home & Gift Harrogate’s Home & Gift Show celebrated its 50th anniversary in July, with a reported recordbreaking 54 per cent increase in on-site re-bookings and six per cent increase in exhibitors. Nick Coffey, show manager of Home & Gift 2011, said the success of the show – which took place from the 17 to the 20 July – underlined its significance and position within the gift market. “The 50th edition of Home & Gift was a particularly important one and I am delighted with the positive reaction we have received from the whole industry,” he commented. “Next year, we will be enhancing and expanding the event, so we’re delighted to report a record on-site re-book. This gives us a very strong platform as we look to build an even better show.” Home & Gift marked its 50th birthday with a series of special events that included a ‘Sunday Sundowners’ celebration, held at the historic Majestic Hotel, with speeches from local MP Andrew Jones and Mayor of the Borough of Harrogate Les Ellington, and an official birthday party at Harrogate’s Revolution Bar. Local baker Betty’s also baked its biggest-ever birthday cake for the occasion.

byaagaard.com

Visit us at the International Jewellery London 2011 Stand No. F11 Alternatively email mt@byaagaard.com

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ROUNDUP

And briefly Hallmarking down again in July Hallmarking continued its downward trend in July, with only 896,015 items submitted for hallmarking to Britain’s four assay offices – a 23.9 per cent year-on-year decrease. Palladium was the only precious metal to register an overall increase in the number of items hallmarked, with five per cent growth compared to July 2010. Silver fell 31.3 per cent and gold 13.6 per cent, while platinum stayed relatively flat.

W&W opens first studio Bespoke British jeweller W&W has opened its first studio, located in Webbs Road in the heart of Battersea. “Breaking away from the traditional shop front,” W&W said the studio is “an inspiring environment where clients can relax and enjoy their jewellery experience.” Director Richard Warrender added: “The move to our new studio in Battersea has been an exciting and progressive time for us. W&W now has a luxurious home where we can really showcase what we are all about.”

Chamilia enters into global partnership with Swarovski Chamilia has announced that it has entered into a “strategic partnership” with Swarovski. The alliance will see Swarovski combine its crystalcutting expertise with Chamilia’s personalised jewellery to create a special co-branded bead collection. “Chamilia is thrilled to be working with Swarovski to further develop our personalised jewellery brand,” said a statement from the company.

IDMA president hits out at ‘dangerous’ diamond tenders The president of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) has warned that a number of large diamond producers are upending the sustainability of the diamond industry at large by selling their production through tenders. In an article that appeared in the July edition of HaYahalom, the magazine of the Israel Diamond Institute, Moti Ganz said: “If the rough producers don’t wake up in time, it won’t be a mere interference, but a blow to our very existence, capabilities and survival.” Ganz argued that tenders make sense in a world where they are one of many instruments of supply, but not when all or most supply is based on tenders. “Manufacturers that engage in occasional diamond processing might be able to survive in a world where there are only tenders,” he stated, “but even then it will be with difficulty… because those who manufacture in large quantities can dominate the tenders and push prices to a level that medium-sized manufacturers can’t reach. “When we examine these aspects of tenders, we realise that they weaken each and every link along the diamond value chain,” he continued. “The most prominent victims are manufacturers and retailers, but there is also another – the rough producer, so dazed by the hefty profits that it doesn’t notice the danger lurking around the corner.”

Change of management at Chronoswiss as Lang steps down Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, the founder of German watchmaker Chronoswiss, has announced that he is to withdraw from taking an active part in the daily running of the company. Lang, who has served in his current role for 28 years, will, however, continue to support the brand as the chairman of a newly created advisory board – comparable to a board of directors – and the company says it will “continue as an independent family business in public.” As of the 1 July, the board of management consists of Sigrun Schillings-Heinen, Chronoswiss’s head of business administration, and Karlo Josef Burgmayer (pictured), the company’s head of sales. “After the crisis and the economic difficulties of 2009 to 2010, the right moment had not come yet,” explained 68-year-old Lang. “However, in view of the great feedback we received at the BaselWorld fair and our promising new models and very positive development in the first half of 2011, the course for a successful future for Chronoswiss is now set and I feel the time is ripe for a change.”

Strong sales for Argent of London Argent of London has announced strong like-for-like sales growth of nearly six per cent for the first half of 2011. The brand, which is noted for its distinctive, affordable designs, showed particularly strong internet sales; up 44 per cent on the same period last year. In announcing the results, Gail Goodrich, managing director and head of design, said she was particularly pleased as they “followed strong Christmas sales.”

CMJ Media appointment CMJ Media, the UK’s dedicated media company for the jewellery industry, has added a new member to its team – freelance jewellery PR Katharine Realff. Katharine has previously worked at Swarovski Corporate Communications and APR Communications, and will be making use of her vast amount of experience and contacts within the industry as a consultant with the CMJ Media team on various projects and events.

Dear Editor,

A valued customer of mine recen tly asked us to forward any polic y statements from bullion dealers confirming the provenan ce of the gold we purchased from them, so I looked up the websites of our principal suppliers . Some of them came up with a state ment confirming that their gold was ethically produced – whatever that really means – and others have not, as yet, put a form of words together. We should all, quite rightly, be conc erned about the possible exploitatio n of child workers, dangerous working conditions and poor housing, but where will this paper trail end? One well-known supplier is abou t to introduce a limited amount of ‘Fairtrade’ gold, and doubtless others will try to follow suit, but this gold will come at a price, and in limited quantities, so only some customer s will be able to deal in this gold and salvage their green credential pride. Much of the gold produced today goes to China and India for use in factories producing jewellery for sale in the UK. Are their working and living condition s comparable to this country? I suspect not. If manufacturers in this country get tangled up in Fairtrade agre ements they will have prices compared even less favourabl y to those of imported goods, and heaven knows the average jewellery wage in the UK is poor enough (for those still in business today). And what of the ‘get out’ of ‘recycled’ gold. What were the working cond itions like when the gold was originally produced ? The manufacturing jewellery trad e in this country is slowly being stran gled by imports. Let us not contribute further to this by tying ourselves in even more knots.

Paul Alabaster

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TRENDS

September style With the autumn/winter season approaching, and a plethora of jewellery and fashion events waiting to open their doors this month, Janet Fitch delivers some essential background trend information

S

ummer is lovely, but I have to confess to a sense of relief when it’s over – even if there’s a last minute heat wave. Most of all, I enjoy seeing shop windows stocked with the new season’s merchandise after the slipshod summer sales displays. September, too, is crowded with shows to visit – IJL, Top Drawer, Origin, Prêt à Porter Paris, London Fashion Week, and at the end of the month, Goldsmiths’ Fair – with all the excitement of spotting new talent and outstanding collections for 2012. But let’s stick with this season and what’s in store. In fashion nowadays there is no single trend, but this autumn there are several desirable and wearable style statements to be seen. There’s the dominatrix, Miss Whiplash look; the tomboy, sharply tailored look; traditional British tweedy country style; sleek 40s or 50s glamour; or a 70s bohemian look. Add earthy tones of mustard, red and olive, lots of lace, lamé and defined waists, and you get the picture. More importantly, what are the trends in jewellery buying? I asked Nicholas James, a leading fine contemporary jewellery maker and retailer with a fashionable shop in Hatton Garden, for his opinion. I wondered whether his strikingly modern white shop front is daunting to customers in a street that is largely untouched by new design influences. “Not at all – people are tired of seeing the same things, and get a buzz from something different, although classic pieces still sell well. We sell only platinum, gold and also palladium for men’s rings. White gold is currently selling well, as platinum is so expensive. Rose gold and brown diamonds are having a real surge, as are coloured stones in general – blue sapphires in particular – and cocktail rings are popular. Customers making bespoke and wedding purchases like to take their time, and like to personalise a piece, taking part in the design, even if it’s only opting for a tiny diamond on the inside shank of a ring,” he explained. (www.nicholasjames.com) Jaana Jatyri is the founder of trend forecasting agency Trendstop, and predicts key trends for autumn/winter 2011/12 to include multi-cultural ethnic elements, Celine-

inspired new minimalism, and homespun rustic warmth. “The consumer is becoming increasingly savvy and more educated about trends, and, as a result, wants to buy the latest looks as soon as they read about them. In order to stay a step ahead of this accelerating trend cycle, retailers and brands have to become smarter and faster at finding those trends.” Good quality trend information is vital in today’s market, and you can visit the agency’s website on a free Trendstop TrendTracker app for iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and Android phones. (www.trendstop.com) One name to watch out for is Alice Menter, launching at IJL, who transforms materials like nuts, washers and zips with gold or silver plating, multi chains, suede and semi-precious stones and beads to create jewellery that is industrial but looks glamorous and feminine and bang on trend. (www.alicementer.co.uk) Meanwhile, Mahtab Hanna’s spectacular catwalk creations have aroused great interest, and she has now produced a flattering and wearable range that is distinctively but subtly influenced by Middle Eastern politics, culture, architecture and nature. Black and white diamonds, gold and silver make the Sensory collection an elegant fusion of high fashion and detailed craftsmanship. (www.mahtab.co.uk) I plan to discover the world of jewellery in western Australia, at the exhibition at Lesley Craze Gallery in Clerkenwell, London, entitled ‘Cinderella’s Stories: Contemporary Jewellery from Western Australia’ and showing the work of seven contemporary Australian designers. The exhibition, from 9 September to 14 October, coincides with the visit of Dorothy Erickson to launch her book Gold and Silversmithing in Western Australia: A History, in which all seven are featured, as well as the story of jewellerymaking in this remote province, which was known as the Cinderella of the South until the discovery of fabulous quantities of gold in the 1880s. Dorothy Erickson will also be speaking to the Society of Jewellery Historians – an event which non-members are welcome to attend – at the Society of Antiquaries, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1J 0BE at 6pm on 27 September. (www.lesleycrazegallery.co.uk)

TRENDS

Image: Joel Degen

Images: Simon B. Armitt

Image: Joel Degen

Alice Menter Lesley Craze Gallery

Mahtab Hanna Nicholas James

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Watch this space

An education Feeling rather ashamed at his lack of awareness of a particularly spectacular watch brand, Keith Fisher rectifies the situation through research

Watch this space

I

I also learned that [the watches] have become the new international symbol of the world’s richest men

t was one of those moments you would not wish on your worst enemy – even the motherin-law. A moment when you wish the ground would open up beneath you and swallow you whole. Squirm is not even the word to describe it. I had better come clean. I was recently invited to a very posh dinner party by a great friend of mine (and watch fanatic), Penelope. Over the years I have frequently been able to advise her on the watches she buys, chiefly because she loves to spend her money on anything with a bracelet on it. She wanted me to attend the party principally because I have this reputation as a watch collector and enthusiast. God knows where it comes from, he says modestly! Let us move on. The evening was going very well as I quaffed the Veuve Clicquot, and the small talk was most engaging. Then a gentleman called Philip arrived a little late and most apologetic. I couldn’t help but notice on his wrist one of the most beautiful looking watches I have ever seen. It took my breath away. So, as the so-called ‘expert’, I proceeded to enquire about it. “It is the Excalibur World Time from Roger Dubuis,” he said. I replied that it was a make that was unfamiliar to me, and the look on his face – well; contempt is the best way to describe it. The silence was deafening as Philip remarked: “I am surprised that you don’t know of this very special Swiss watch manufacturer.” Then he added (looking down his nose): “It cost me £35,000.” Oh my god. Why didn’t I keep my big mouth shut? I must add here that the rest of the evening went downhill from that moment, so the following day I did what most good journalists do – research! The first publication I turned to was the Bible of all things watches – Wristwatch Annual: The Catalog of Producers, Prices, Models and Specifications by Peter Braun and published out of New York. There on page 186 was Roger Dubuis, for whom the manufacture is named. Oh, the watches were just sensational. And I also learned, when I called a colleague of mine, that they have

become the new international symbol of the world’s richest men – like my fellow diner Philip. The name was only founded as recently as 1996, as I discovered while devouring every scrap of knowledge. Also, significantly, it seems that Roger Dubuis made his name as a troubleshooter for all the big Swiss watch giants; if anybody had a problem it was soon solved by Roger. After branching out into his own manufacture he is now enjoying a well-earned retirement and the new lord of the manor is the dynamic Carlos Dias from Portugal, who was instrumental in setting up the company in association with Roger. More than 400 people work in the state-ofthe-art production establishment located just outside of Geneva, and Carlos Dias has now in fact established a unique jewellery line and various objets d’art. Eye-popping design, superlative handcrafted movements of high-tech complexity – these watches are luxurious avant-garde timepieces. They include the Monégasque; the Easy Diver; the Flying Tourbillon; the Much More Tourbillon; and the Hommage Perpetual Calendar. In times of crisis all you can do is hold your hands up and admit defeat – and learn from your mistakes. One thing is for certain – I won’t forget the name Roger Dubuis in a hurry!

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NEW TIMEPIECES

With its “cultivated elegance” and “impressive intrinsic values”, A Lange & Söhne says its new Saxonia Thin is “a graceful and self-confident ode to the heritage of watch-making artistry in Saxony.” The Saxonia Thin adds to the company’s re-designed Saxonia family of watches, with a minimalistic and slender model that features a succinct minute scale, lancet hands and svelte baton hour markers on a solid silver argenté dial. With a diameter of 40 millimetres and a height of just 5.9 millimetres, it is the watchmaker’s flattest timepiece yet. Information: www.alange-soehne.com

A major brand all over Europe, FESTINA says that in countries like Germany, France, Italy, Spain and the Benelux it is one of the top three watch brands in the price range of £59 to £299. Pictured is a model from the Chrono Bike 2011 collection, which features 16 gents’ chronographs with a cyclinginspired theme that includes chain links in the design of the top ring and sub-dials with the form of a chainwheel. Eight models are fitted with solid stainless steel bracelets, and eight with a black rubber strap. Information: 0207 405 5523 or www.uniquejewelry.co.uk RRP: £285

RRP: £14,000

With the launch of Cars 2 and the final installment of Harry Potter this summer, Swiss children’s watch brand Flik Flak is celebrating with new themed watches for children aged five and up. Both feature robust aluminium cases, scratch-resistant mineral glass, a turning bezel and washable textile strap. Information: www.flikflak.com RRP: £29.10

Ones

to watch Inspiration for Hamilton’s Khaki UTC came from the pages of the company’s own history books, paying tribute to its 1940s marine chronometers that integrated sidereal time. Sidereal time measured time relative to the motion of the stars around the earth, as opposed to that of the sun. Today, its new trio of timepieces with GMT functionality use contemporary design and current airport abbreviations to celebrate the “impressive voyage that navigational timekeeping has made to modernity.” Information: www.hamiltonwatch.com RRP: £825 (prices may vary from time-to-time based on rate of exchange)

Designed by Purists. Fashioned by the Swiss. The ZS Series. From the Collection of inspired, exceptional, stylish designs. See us at I J L

Stand G48

w w w.abart-uk.com 01422 317539

a.b.art - Jewellery Focus

93mm x 130mm

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Silver

A silver lining The silver jewellery boom of 2010 has been knocked off track somewhat during the current year, as raw metal price hikes have become all-encompassing. But how is the situation likely to change going forward? And how is the trade coping with the cost? Rebecca Hoh-Hale reports

A

t the time of writing, silver prices were standing at $38 (£24) per ounce, according to Cookson Gold. Prices have been climbing ever since the global recession and economic downturn that began in 2008, with people buying into commodities such as gold, gas, oil and silver as a more stable investment following the crash of the property market. Of the precious metals, gold was the first choice, but as prices rocketed, silver became the more accessible and profitable candidate, but that too is now reaching new highs. Investors predict that the trajectory will continue, with silver rising to $45 (£28) per ounce by the end of this year. This is not news to those in the jewellery trade, who have been battling the booming prices on a daily basis for some time. So, in this challenging era, we asked a selection of UK silver specialists where they see the silver market heading and how they have absorbed the prices into their business plans and products to keep money ringing through the tills. Silver Willow, the company behind wholesale sterlingsilver-based Chrysalis and Stack Ring Co products, has been tightening its belt behind the scenes, while also experiencing an increase in consumer desire for silver pieces – both a result of the recession. “Two years ago we were looking at $10 an ounce, and now see it fluctuating up to $40,” says Silver Willow’s Andy Gillard, “but these same circumstances have also made the consumer look for jewellery which has a classic, timeless look, and as gold prices are well known to be high, silver is now the first choice.” Silver Willow has endeavoured to keep its silver retail prices low, despite the cost of the raw material, in an attempt to keep business flowing. “Our main concern is maintaining repeat business, so we have really cut margins in order to stick to the catalogue price for a set amount of time – something we guarantee to our customers and something they really appreciate. Even now prices have only risen 25 per cent, when we are experiencing a 400 per cent rise on the raw material.” Another strategy Silver Willow has put in place is the loss leader – a product sold at a low price (at cost or below cost) so as to encourage consumers to peruse other Stack Ring Co or Chrysalis pieces, enticing them to buy more. The company also supports and supplies all its retailers with free branded packaging and in-store marketing, free POS and ready-made box sets to be included in window displays. And what about the products themselves? How have they been modified to weather the price boom? “We are constantly looking for new ideas, to anticipate and promote ‘the next big thing’. We feel that glass beads have reached their pinnacle and it is in fact silver charms that are on the

Silver Willow

Silver

21st Century Silver

popularity increase. Perhaps because this means that silver can be bought in abundance but in small, compact sizes, keeping the prices low? It is good for us as this encourages consumers to buy many items, which can be alternated to change the look of the piece. With this in mind the latest Chrysalis by Silver Willow line, entitled Meadows, features charm bracelets in both classic sterling silver and silver with a rhodium plate. This will be launched at IJL as the Chrysalis pre-Christmas collection. Gillard has made the decision to keep the cost of the basic ‘starter’ bracelet low (£20 wholesale price) with the intention that this will promote a long-term incentive to buy the charms. The Stack Ring Co collections also make use of silver as the primary raw material, with the launch of the Vintage range. “The aged look that can be achieved when oxidising silver is also keeping consumers interested,” explains Gillard, “as the vintage look is now one of the main trends in popular jewellery.” 21st Century Silver echoes the sentiments of Silver Willow, feeling that silver jewellery is currently still in demand due to its affordability compared to gold and the variety of styles it can lend itself to. However, Tony Greene at the company also voiced his concerns, particularly in regard to the troubled US credit rating. “I really feel that silver jewellery sales will start to suffer should prices rise further. It’s something that we have been monitoring over the past few years and have chosen designs that are less heavy and therefore still within most customers’ budgets. “Commodities such as gold and silver will remain high until the US and Europe resolve their monetary problems. When they do, large investors’ confidence in currencies will be renewed and then the price of silver will return to some level of normality. The trouble is that we do not know how long this will take and so we are launching a new, lighter range in September called Limelight.”

“Commodities such as gold and silver will remain high until the US and Europe resolve their monetary problems” Limelight is rhodium-plated contemporary jewellery, without the high silver content, and therefore without the high prices. The shapes are slim and delicate, with open designs, eliminating the need for large amounts of the raw material. “Sleek lines, well designed but with a wide-ranging appeal,” adds Greene. “With the whole range retailing at under £20 it should be just what the hard pressed shopper is looking for.” Similarly, Rich Sewell of silver specialist Vizati feels confident in the company’s product but does not see a turnaround in the very near future, and is making the necessary changes to its designs. “Silver will, surely, remain an extremely popular medium for jewellery while the world price stays within certain confines. The obvious danger lies in speculation and other factors driving prices too high, in which case we will see a sharp drop in sales volume and the metal being traded, in the same way that we did with nine carat gold some years ago.” Sewell feels that the difficulties will arise in educating the purchasing public as to the ‘new’ value of silver and the fact that larger and heavier pieces will simply cost more than they expect. Vizati has inevitably had to trim down weights. “Most new designs will feature less silver,” says Sewell, “though in some

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26

Silver

cases this may not be too visually apparent where the surface area of, say, a pendant, can appear quite substantial but the thickness is reduced. We will, however, maintain our popular larger designs, which go up to a very substantial 200 grams in weight.” The company’s new White Satin range demonstrates this move, with ‘cut-out’ designs helping to keep the prices down. The latest Magic Earth collection also uses a small but effective technique to lower costs: “This range features rare stones and we are able to set large and spectacular pieces, such as 40 millimetre by 30 millimetre oval pietersite cabochon, with just four grams of silver, while retaining an expensive-looking finish. Cutting corners need not lessen quality.” Jules Asch at Sussex-based The Silvery has also chosen the design innovations route to maintain and boost silver sales. “Because of these price hikes, there are so many people making incredible things in much more affordable mediums, such as brass, resin and felt, and customers have become used to a much bigger choice of products in contemporary jewellery at prices that are very competitive,” she says. “This has meant those working in silver have really had to up their game when it comes to making sure that their products are appealing, unusual and of a high quality.

Vizati

“I believe now people are expecting that little bit more from silver products to feel they are justifying the increased expense”

“While silver will always have its fans, I believe now people are expecting that little bit more from silver products to feel they are justifying the increased expense. Our suppliers report back that our pieces continue to sell well as they have the appeal of cast silver, but with a much more competitive price.” The Silvery is also considering the importance of packaging and dressing the product to promote sales. “By sticking to what we do best and not trying to be high-fashion, we have been able to keep our costs down and incorporate smart new packaging and more detailed point of sale cards, which make our work more appealing to those looking to buy unusual gifts, especially at Christmas time. There will always be a large market for simple, wearable but unusual jewellery such as ours, and so we decided to focus on working to the highest standard possible rather than bringing out fancy new pieces for the sake of it throughout this tricky year.” The Silvery’s newest star item for autumn is the Acorn, available as a simple pendant, earrings and charm bracelet. The company is also bringing back its larger shell pendants, due to great demand. The statement necklace seems a permanent fixture in the Silvery’s list of best selling items, and with this in mind it is also introducing the new Dancing Feather as a large statement pendant to be worn on a longer length chain or thong. So it’s not all over for silver – the road ahead may still be rocky but it seems the classic and versatile look of the metal will have constant appeal. Manufacturers and retailers may just have to be a little cleverer with both design and marketing techniques, but this challenging era is also resulting in some of the most beautiful and interesting pieces of silver jewellery the industry has ever seen.

The Silvery

Supplier listing

21st Century Silver: www.21stcenturysilver.co.uk AG Silver: www.agsilver.co.uk Elaine Jenkins: www.elainejenkins.co.uk Mayanna: www.mayanna.com Silver Fantasies: www.silverfantasies.co.uk Silver Willow: www.silver-willow.com The Silvery: www.thesilvery.co.uk Trollbeads: www.trollbeads.co.uk Vizati: www.vizati.com

Green Tourmaline and Diamonds

See us at IJL Stand I 10

Sheldon Bloomf ield 0113 243 0100 www.sheldonbloomf ield.com heidi @ sheldonbloomf ield.co.uk

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Set in stone

A career in colour At the recent launch of the new Bonds of Union collection in London, Harry Waight caught up with the man behind the brand – gemmologist and jewellery expert Denis Bellessort – to find out more about his fascinating career

“I have been training my eye constantly since I was 12. I believe that one must train from such an early age to fully develop the talent”

F

or gemmologist and designer Denis Bellessort, jewellery is the passion of a lifetime. The former head gemmologist at Tiffany & Co and Cartier expert at Cartier has been surrounded by jewels from near infancy. He remembers being given his first lessons in the art by a relative: “As a child I spent years observing the gems of an uncle of mine. I used to spend hours a day studying them under natural light, candle light and artificial light.” It was during this time that he “fell in love with the stones, the colour, and the light,” and he went on to take trips to Paris and Cannes during weekends and holidays, to observe jewellery in different luminosities, and to see how it was worn by fashionable women. What began as a passion was soon transformed into a vocation, with Bellessort journeying to Thailand at age 18 to study in detail how stones were cut by master craftsmen. From there he began travelling between the world’s jewellery centres, visiting gemstone centre Idar-Oberstein in west Germany and on to New York, before going to study at the prestigious Gemological Institute of America in Santa Monica, from which he graduated at age 20. Bellessort then took this expertise with him to London, studying further at Sotheby’s and at Garrard, which was at the time the United Kingdom’s Crown Jeweller, charged with the

upkeep of the Crown jewels. Here he learnt how stones could manipulate light, “containing it within the stone, or spraying it out, making the jewels sparkle.” Bellessort also enjoyed less formal training, taking time to observe the way in which elegant women around the capital wore jewellery; the way in which different pieces complemented different skins tones and facial types. This habit of observing fashionable women is one that has remained with Mr Bellessort, and which, he notes wryly, has drawn the ire of his wife on more than one occasion. The matching of the jewel to the woman is a recurring theme of Bellessort’s. He describes how he can “always tell whether a piece suits a lady. In jewellery you adjust a piece to suit a person; jewellery must direct the eye, and show up a woman’s charms.” He acknowledges the famous Vermeer painting, Girl with a Pearl Earring, as a master class in the power of jewellery to captivate the eye: “It is amazing. You see the pearl, and then the face. But irresistibly your eye keeps being drawn back to the pearl.” With a wealth of experience behind him, Bellessort found work with Tiffany & Co and Cartier, among others. At Tiffany he worked first as jewellery manager, and later as head gemmologist. At Cartier, Bellessort had the fascinating job of authenticating pieces thought to be by the

Set in stone

legendary luxury jeweller and watchmaker. People would bring pieces to him from all over the world – both watches and jewels – which he would study for the telltale Cartier marks and craftsmanship, before giving a thumbs up or thumbs down verdict. His skill in the field also attracted less desirable visitors. Bellessort talks of “professional fakers [coming] from New York and elsewhere, bringing what they had made, just to see if I could spot the fake!” When asked to identify the quality that has allowed him to achieve success in his work, Bellessort replies: “Having ‘the eye’.” This is not something that is acquired easily, and he believes it is the single most important attribute that has allowed him to flourish in the jewellery trade. He harks back once again to his childhood, saying: “I have been training my eye constantly since I was 12; pushing myself all the time. I believe that one must train from such an early age to fully develop the talent. “Once you’ve got the eye you can see the edge of the cut of the stone and then you can see further details in the manufacturing and making of the piece. And once you see this you understand how a piece should be worn. Being able to really see in this way gives me a huge advantage in selling, authenticating and designing jewellery.”

Not surprisingly this time spent at Tiffany and Cartier brought Bellessort into contact with some of the most elegant jewellery ever made; “amazing pieces, mostly from the 1920s, 30s and 40s,” routinely made their way into his offices. His eyes grow misty when asked about some of the precious stones that have passed through his hands: “I am privileged... I have seen some amazing pieces – pearls, diamonds, sapphires and rubies from all over the world. At Cartier we would get emeralds from the 17th century, which we would then remount.” Bellessort draws attention to one particular piece, saying: “At the moment I’ve got a necklace, which is a Mughal piece – one from about 1640. It belonged to Shah Jahan, the legendary builder of the Taj Mahal.” Bellessort’s research indicates that the necklace is likely to have hung around the neck of the man who ruled the Mughal Empire during its golden age. Though he enjoyed his time at Cartier and other companies, Bellessort always harboured a desire to break free and create a brand of his own. These urges towards independence were fine-tuned as he found himself “always noticing people in the street, seeing the jewellery they were wearing, and thinking: ‘If you changed that just a little bit, it would work.’” Deciding that he had the touch required to correct these errors in style, he set about planning his own range of jewellery. The result,

“I am privileged... I have seen some amazing pieces – pearls, diamonds, sapphires and rubies from all over the world”

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Set in stone

“If you make things by hand… it has the human touch that is lacking in machinemade jewellery”

after two years of preparation, was the launch of Bonds of Union on 21 July. The philosophy behind the brand is “the premise that the superior quality craftsmanship only usually found in high jewellery should be available to consumers at an affordable price.” Bellessort believes that the recession has taught people to avoid spending their money on passing fads and trends, projecting a return to the stylistic elegance that prevailed in the 1970s, and arguing that “loud, brash styles seem to be unpopular now. Instances like the royal wedding are showing us a return to the popularity of old-style beauty and elegance.” The recession is also something that has played to the advantage of the jewellery industry in many respects, says Bellessort, clarifying: “People are looking to buy one meaningful gift rather than a few that will disappear in time, such as perfume or candles.” He says that during the lean years “pieces with a signature did very well... and the exceptional pieces of jewellery did extremely well – better than ever, in fact.” It is this trend that Bellessort hopes to capitalise on with his new brand. He argues: “If you want to buy a young lady a present for about £100, £200 or £300, where do you go? There aren’t many places. There is jewellery that is trendy and doesn’t last very long, but I think these days people want to give something

that is timeless and serious, but also affordable. And I think I have achieved that.” The manufacturing wing of Bellessort’s operation is in India. The hunt for a workshop was a difficult one, but Bellessort eventually found what he was looking for in Jaipur, a city in northern India. What attracted him to the spot were the rich traditions of craftsmanship that prevailed there – traditions that he says have fallen by the wayside across much of Europe. “In Jaipur they have the techniques I used to work with 20 or 30 years ago. They’re real jewellers – they work with their hands, the same as the very best workshops in Europe,” Bellessort explains. Believing that this hands-on approach is essential, he adds: “If you make things by hand, then each piece is slightly different. It has the human touch that is lacking in machine-made jewellery.” The result – Bonds of Union – is considered by Bellessort to be his proudest achievement, and it is in this direction that he sees the rest of his working life unfolding. “From here I want to work with mine owners myself, to get a large quantity of special stones. And then establish some close contact with jewellers, first in England, and then abroad.” He hopes that the future will see Bonds of Union “becoming a loved signature” within the industry – the next goal in an already sparkling career.

IJL 2011 show guide

36

Show time As the IJL team prepares to open the doors to Earls Court for the 2011 event, it’s time to plan your visit once again…

I

nternational Jewellery London (IJL) returns to Earls Court from the 4 to 7 September this year, with the organisers promising new exhibitors, new product areas, new trends and new show features, all designed to further enhance the visitor experience.

The latest trends

With an exhibitor list including such names as Aagaard, Gecko, Hot Diamonds, Sheldon Bloomfield, Julia Burness, Deema Collection, Gracie J Designs and Perthshire, visitors to this year’s event can expect to view a vast range of products and services during their visit, and prepare for the Christmas season with new stock orders. But the stands are not the only attraction…

Knowledge is power

The IJL seminar programme has been unveiled ahead of the show, and can be viewed in full at www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars. The seminars and panel debates are free to attend for visitors, and will be delivered in a new purpose-built seminar theatre – the Inspiration Theatre. The line-up includes Jeremy Hoye, discussing unique collaborations with a focus on his latest venture, and Elizabeth Galton, who will speak about redefining luxury in the digital ages. Shop-in-shops will be debated at the event, and a panel featuring experts from the Goldsmiths’ Company will identify the latest developments in materials, processes, training and hallmarking. Meanwhile Martin Rapaport will reveal his annual report on the state of the diamond industry. Keeping ahead of trends is an ideal way to run a successful jewellery business, and top trends forecasting agency Stylesight will identify upcoming trends to inspire visitors. Shop owners and managers can also experience a

snapshot of a brand new inspirational programme, in the Mary Portas Guide to Successful Retailing seminar. Retail Theatre will be the focus for the motivational seminar by Insight with Passion, providing vital information about how to improve and enhance the in-store retail experience, and everything from online opportunities to mobile commerce will be covered in other seminars. F  Hinds will also reveal the outcome of its High Street By Design competition, launched last year, in a seminar about the initiative. Stephen Webster will take part in the Great Debate, providing a talk about Fairtrade Fairmined gold and showing a video he made earlier this year while travelling to find out more about the issues. This will be the first time the film is shown at a large industry show and Stephen Webster will take part in a groundbreaking Q&A session with the rest of the Great Debate panel after the screening. The Great Debate is hosted by the Birmingham Assay Office.

On the catwalk

The IJL Runway is being launched, which is a new catwalk running the entire length of the Boulevard. Sponsored by Aagaard, two shows are scheduled for each day of the event, with themes including: All that Glitters is Gold; Trends by Hilary Alexander; Modern Vintage; the Bridal Collection; Watches – A Moment in Time; the Rainbow (gems); and Fairtrade and Ethical Jewellery.

“A selection of established and iconic designers will be unveiling new collections here,” comments co-event director Sam Willoughby. “Designer Brands will add even more selection and opportunities to find your next best seller.” Loose Diamonds & Precious Gems is another new, dedicated product area, and will draw attention to gem companies which only provide quality loose diamonds and precious stones.

Future stars

Finally, why not pay a visit to the Bright Young Gems and KickStart stands? The Bright Young Gem designers have been selected by a panel of judges as being hotly tipped for success; and KickStart is a feature supported by the British Jewellers’ Association, which acts as a commercial launch pad for the 10 promising designers selected to take part, providing a boost for the industry and allowing retailers to source products from the best new design talent of 2011. You can find a sneak preview of the designers at www.jewellerylondon.com/kickstart “With so many new designers, brands, initiatives and developments, this year’s show is set to be an outstanding one, with well over 500 exhibitors already lined up to reveal their latest work,” concludes coevent director Syreeta Tranfield.

In the zone

Among the new product areas being introduced at IJL this year is the Designer Brands area, which will be launched within the Design Gallery. For more information about IJL, please visit You can also register to attend via the website.

or call 0208 271 2144.

IJL 2011 show guide

Exhibitor list 5C Group

G81

A A E Ward & Son Ltd J79 a.b.art G48 A.G. & Sons (UK) Ltd E141 A.S. Diamonds J19 AAGAARD A/S F11 Aaron Shum Jewelry Ltd i145 Abigail Stradling C31F Actacrown Limited J59 Adaptive Consultancy Ltd C119 Adele Taylor C43 ADL International Magazine GMN Advalorem Ltd G131 Advance Solutions C148 Aesthetic Jewellery Company Limited J167 Aim Display E148 AK Bijoux Minerals J70 Alan Ardiff D48 Alexander Davis C10 Alexandra Simpson C41 Alexis Dove Jewellery C29 Alice Gow Designs D15 Alice Menter C95 Alish Wholesale Ltd J49 Almost Perfect D41 Alraune Lapidaries Edelsteinhandels GmbH K40 AMA Agencies F154 Amanda Coleman A15 Amanda Cox Jewellery C16 Amber Hall Jewellery F38 Amrapali UK Ltd i71 Amy Keeper Jewellery C31A Ana Verdun Jewellery E14 Anand And Anand J38 Anchorcert Diamond Certification Service H109 Andea Jewellery D101 Andrew Geoghegan E64 Annie Banian C94 Annie Mundy Jewellery E88 Annika Rutlin B46 Anthony Blakeney A43 Antwerp Diamonds Ltd G31 Anya Ghadimi D47 Apple Display & Shopfitting Ltd  C141 Apsara J29 Argenterie Giovanni Raspini Spa  F20 Aris Jewellers i138 Artisan Jewelry D89 Art-Stone C170 Ashiana A103 AsiaGems.co.uk J119 Azteca Trading A81 B B K Jewellery J154 Babette Wasserman C60 Bachtar Kleinod oHG J81 Bacio Italy Srl F148 Bass Premier Co. G101 Beadstone K128 Becca Jewellery C2 Beijing Yue Xiu Sheng He Xian Co.,LTD C116 Benchpeg Ltd E50,GMN Benor Designer Jewellery C90 Beth Gilmour Jewellery B37 BH Multi Com - EFFY H30 Big Ant Sp zoo Sp.K C32 Bjorg Design GmbH G100 BKT (Rings) Ltd/TJW (Diamonds) Ltd H59 Black Sea Jewels by Ia B45 Bossert GmbH E130 BQ Watches H48

Bransom Retail Systems Ltd i100 Brave Designs C98 Breuning GmbH H61 British Jewellers’ Association H151 Brown & Newirth Ltd G51 Buildview Jewellery Limited K162 Buja C49 Bullion Bond Limited C159 Burkmar Jewellery A21 Button and Co F131 By Elise E78 C C W Sellors G71 C.D. Co. Ltd J166 Cabbage is King C31E Carrs Silver E11 Cathy Newell Price A19 Ceylon Gems ltd J41 Ch. Dahlinger GmbH & Co KG  C121 Chamilia Europe Ltd.  F121,E121 Charlie High Designs D13 Charmian Beaton Design D108 Charming by Ti Sento G140 Chavin Jewellery D10 Chris Hawkins C21 Christelle Ltd i155 Chun Yuen Jewelry Company Limited K164 Ciara Jewellery Co Ltd J169 Citrus London Ltd C100 Claire English - Special Jewellery Co C31B Claire Troughton Jewellery A38 Classic Time Ltd H149 Clot’s Image Jewellery Co. Ltd.i165 CME Leicester Limited E81 COCOTIER Co.,Ltd. A55 Codis Maya C58 Coeur de Lion E89 Collette Waudby Ltd A40 Colorjewels J145 Contor Aichinger E51 Corona Jewellery Company H31 Cresber H78 Cudworth Enterprises Pty Ltd E151 Curteis Ltd H121 D D Scott-Walker H19 Dabbah Ltd D109 Daisy Jewellery G134 Daisy Knights Jewellery Design D40 Dan Jewellers Ltd i1 Dancing Apsara Ltd C48 Daniel Vior C44 Dante Cenci Limited G89 David Peterson Clocks i140 De Mexico F101 Deakin & Francis Ltd C69 Deckwell Gold Ltd J143 Deco Echo F50 Deema Collection J120 Delcam UK C160 Department of Export Promotion, Chanthaburi i88 Design & Style J90 Designed by Bond C54 Detlef Menard C101 Dewcarat Ltd K144 Di Perle GmbH K30 DMJ Ltd F61,F59 Domino G131 Donald Clarke F100 Doreth Jones C31G Double Arts Jewellery Manufacturer Ltd J144 Dower & Hall G78 Drew Perridge B12

Dureco AG K108 Dwarka Gems (Europe) Ltd J20 DWJ(B’ham)Ltd H35 E E. Wolfe & Co. E.F.D. Diamonds Co. Ltd. Eastern Mystic Jewellery EJI Elran Jewellery Ltd Emeraldcroft Diamonds Emir Kuyumculuk Ltd Emma Turpin Emsaru Erfurt Design Ethically Precious Ltd Euro Pearls

H101 K18 B39 J153 A89 K20 H148 C31H i18 D111 E109 G41

F Farah Qureshi B1 Fashion and Jewels Ltd E170 Fashionville.Co.,Ltd E59 FDJ - Fairmont Diamond Jewellery  J30 Fei Liu Fine Jewellery G121 Ferrara GiFè Gioielli SAS di Ferrara Luigi i81 Festina E119 Fi Mehra Designs B48 Fierros sprl K84 Filigree Street D70 Fine Gems Collection GmbH i70 Flash Jordan  B51 Fleet Promotional Packaging C151 Fred E Ullmann H21 G G McKenzie F41 G&T (HONGKONG) Co., Limited  C108 Galaxy USA Inc J1 Gecko F31 Gem A (The Gemmological Association) J50 Gemex  H38 Gemological Institute of America  i91 Gemvision Europe Ltd C120 Genie Jewels Ltd i20 Georgini F150 Germès by Saveria Geronimi A25 Gift Time Ltd i140 Gina Melosi  C31C Gina Stewart Cox E40 Glacier Jewellery i124 Glenn Campbell B19 Global Color Research Mix Publications B90,GMN Global Jewelry Special GMN Global Sources Publications Ltd  GMN Global Timepieces & Jewelry GMN Gold Pack Packaging Ltd C129 Goldmark H129 Gold-N-Diamonds, Inc. / Jewelry Super Center i119 Goldschmiede Atelier i95 Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council C51 Gracie J A32 Greenspark Limited G49 H H S Walsh & Sons Ltd A131 H W Tankel (Scotland) Ltd H71 Hallmark Design & Shopfitting Ltd i101 Hanron Jewellery Ltd J40 Hans D. Krieger KG G61 Hans Rivoir Gmbh i28 Happy Dragon Arts Ltd - Helen Fung K120

Harrison Brothers & Howson Ltd  C115 Hatton Garden Metals H1 Hazel Atkinson Jewellery B55 Hean Studio Limited H119 Heinz Mayer OHG G11 Henrich & Denzel GmbH G99 Henry and Powell H39 Herbert Marx Ltd i89 Heskia Brothers - Almor Design  i139 Hesse + Co. H69 Hirsch Watch Bracelets Ltd H91 HK Jewellers i78 Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association K166 Horo Sales i69 Houlden Group H115 House of Panache (UK) Ltd i40 I IAS Training A141 IDEX Online- International Diamond Exchange i109 IGI i21 Imagem K28 Inbar Shahak Textile Jewelry D19 Independent Diamond Laboratory  J80 Indo Gems Handels GmbH K110 Institute of Professional Goldsmiths i135 International Bullion G21 International Diamond and Jewellery Co. (I.D.J.C) G101 International Gemstones Ltd J82 International Packaging Corporation (UK) Ltd D119 Itchydo K68 J Jack Schpektor H10 Jacob Issacharoff Diamonds/ JID  i111 Jade Rich Jewellery Ltd. J147 Jaipur Silver Jewels PVT. Ltd A105 Jax Jewellery Ltd A101 Jayce Wong Ltd A39 JCI Jewellery Ltd E71 JCK Magazine GMN Jeremy Hoye E68 Jersey Pearl F81 Jessica De Lotz D42 Jessica Flinn Designs A36 Jessica Jewellery Design B15 Jewel Arts Ltd. K154 Jewel World Limited C91 Jewellery Focus J94 Jeypore Creations Inc E1 Jian of London F71 Jianhui London D1 Johnson Matthey Precious Metals Marketing H11 Joias J61 Jon Vincent The Watchmaker Limited i143 Joseph & Pearce Ltd i35 Joseph Lamsin Jewellery B59 Josyfon Ltd H88 JRJ Jewellery Ltd. E41 JSC Krastsvetmet H45 Jules Jules B49 Julia Burness Jewellery B54 Just Brothers & Co. A151 Justin Duance D43 Juvela Gems C163 Juvi Pearls C109 K K & R Jewellery K K Jewellery Co Ltd

H111 J157

37

38

IJL 2011 show guide

Kali Ma Designs Ltd F30 Karen Hallam A30 Kathleen Baird B33 Kerstin Laibach D27 Keywest Color Stone Chain, Inc i131 Kiki Charms D25 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery Fty Ltd K150 Kirin Jewelry Company F109 Kit Heath Ltd F91 Kleshna C70 Kling GmbH E130 Kokkino D11 Kranz & Ziegler Denmark E39 Kristal Diamonds Ltd K10 L L M Jewellery Ltd H131 La Diosa C31J La10 C17 Laroche Opals J69 Latham & Neve D28 Laura Gravestock B42 Laurel Jewellery Ltd H81 Lavan Jewellery A29 LBJ Jewellery E101 Leon Israel Designs Ltd i58 LEONARDIarte B76 Leslie Donn Ltd H50 Leyla Abdollahi A33 Linda Macdonald Jewellery B29 Li-Ren Stone & Pearl Jewellery E90 Lola Rose F151 London Pearl (London) Ltd H10 London Road Jewellery G141 Lonmin Design Innovation Award  H11 Lorenz, Dieter EdelsteindesignA11 Lotus Jewellery Company Ltd J155 Luca Barra F48 LUCKY EYES , LONDON B78 Luke Goldsmith E18 Luxor Gioielli snc H158 M M. Weskamp / I. von Hoerde GbR  K78 M.S. Kays Jewellery i41 Magda T D104 Magdalena Tello C15 Maker Mends i98 Malcolm Morris D18 Manihir International Co Ltd K92 Manu Werkstatt fur Schmuck F108 Marcia Lanyon Limited J51 Marcus McCallum FGA J31 Maria Black C12 Mark Milton Ltd G91 Marlene Hounam A35 Martick Jewellery F1 Mathieu Tormen Joaillerie A41 Matt Aminoff Pearl Company i38 McCourt’s Jewellery H64 McLauchlan Gemstone Traders Ltd J89 Meira T. Designs i90 Metal Meringue A101 Metalor Technologies (UK) Ltd  H119 Michael Peckitt B53 Midhaven Ltd F51 Min Fletcher Jones A28 Mirabelle C80 MIRPURI C31D Mirri Damer B35 Mishca London A49 Missoma Ltd H18 Momocreatura B13 Mounirs Design E48

Mouse Jeweller MSK Display Works MSS Watch Company Murray Ward Muru Jewellery My Pearl GmbH & Co Kg

E16 C161 A171 C111 E70 H60

N

Namiki Co Ltd J130 Nannapas Ltd B101 Natalie Jane Harris B34 Nathan & Stock Ltd C79,D74 National Association of Goldsmiths  H151 Neilson Photography C117 Nelson Jewellery Arts Co Ltd J163 Nereida Jewellery E98 Newbridge Silverware F170 Nexus Pearls J108 Nick Hubbard C26 NOA C105 Noble Jewelry Ltd J150 Nomades H98 Nomination srl F111 O Opals Mine Factory Limited B109 Oria Jewellery A18 Oriental Gemco H41 Oro Ltd i121 Ortak Jewellery G88 Otis Jaxon D71 P P J Watson Limited G111 P. Kennedy Ltd E61 Palmun Ltd H51 Pascale Forcetti Jewellery A51 Paula Bolton Collection Ltd D91 Peace Of Mind D94 Pearce Displays E150 Pearls Of The Orient F40 Penny Warren D14 Perfection Jewellery Ltd J10 Perthshire Jewellery CompanyE159 Peter Lang Australia C34 Phuze A48 Pica Design F108 Ping Ping Jewellery A91 Pollards International Inc Cool Case Company E124 Poly Philippou D29 Pomegranate E29 Potters (London) Limited A121 Prism Design Ltd F39 Pure Stones J101 Pursuit Software Ltd H150 R

R.E. Morrish i80 Rachel Entwistle  A24 Rachel Galley Jewellery Design Ltd  B60 Radiant Diamonds J21 Rahul Exports J115 Raymond Hak Ltd F99 Rebecca Anne Johnson B36 Rebecca Joselyn A1 Responsible Jewellery Council J95 Richard Cooper and CompanyF18 Ritone Jewelry International Limited K140 Rocks-Watch i149 RodgersandRodgers D88 Roma Vincent : Metal Manipulator  A37 Rosina Beech B24 Rowena Park Jewellery D49 Royal Jewelry Mfg. H58 Royal Selangor Pewter UK Ltd F170

Rubie Rae Rubin & Son Ruppenthal (UK) Ltd Russkiye Samotsvety Ruth Bridges Jewellery

A60 C128 i99 i48 D45

S S J Jewels  F28 SafeGuard Jewellery Valuation Service H109 Sally Ratcliffe Jewellery C45 Samuel Jones (Pearls) Limited i50 Sandia Silver A79 Sara Preisler England C19 Sarah Ibrahim C31i Sarah Jordan C61 Sarah Packington B14 SC LULAV CONSULT SRL D95 Scala Gioielli Srl i79 Scherer Creations E99 Schmuckbasar de Tudi Billo E161 Sea - Noy Design A115 Sharose Designs B99 Shaun Leane G109 Shawkat Shami Fine Jewelry Salon  i68 Sheena McMaster B38 Sheila Fleet Jewellery Ltd A59 Sheldon Bloomfield Ltd i10 Shimara Carlow B32 SHO Fine Jewellery Ltd E60 Shona Marsh C3 Shwet Ratan Impex J39 Sian Bostwick Jewellery D29 Sian Elizabeth Hughes Jewellery  B16 Sico International Ltd K26 Sigal Distribution Ltd B89 Sil Gold i29 Silver Art Palace J91 Silver Cherry Ltd C71 Silver City Jewelry Inc G50 Silver Delights Ltd B81 Silver Fantasies F140 Silver Service E24 Silverado / Anna Gee Ltd B71 Silverline Jewellery Ltd F58 Silvermine (UK) Limited E21 Silveroq D90 Silvex Los Angeles G70 Simon Kemp Jewellery A47 Simplicity ET i39 Since 1853 Ltd H141 Singhal Gems J58 SK Diamonds H89 Skulls and Orchids  D21 Smets Diamant J11 Smile Jewellery A99 So Jewellery A71 Solitaire Gemmological Laboratories Ltd. J110 Sonal Talgeri-Bhaskaran London  B39 Sonya Bennett Jewellery Ltd A31 Sophia Mann B13 SPARK - Firma Corundum Sp. z.o.o. F89 Spinning Jewelry A/S F130 SSP Steidle GmbH C150 Stack Ring Co and Chrysalis by Silver Willow F49 Step by Step G48 Storm - Sun 99 Ltd G95 Strom Brothers Ltd E19 Stubbs & Co (UK) Ltd G119 Stunolite ltd D80 Summer and Silver B93 Sun Enterprises BV J111

Sunrise Gems J99 Sunshine Exim Traders Ltd i11 Susan Plowman B23 SuShilla C11 Susie Warner D20 Sutton Tools A119 Svane & Lührs ApS F135 T T H March & Company Ltd C138 T O’Donoghue Ltd i51 Taka Jewellery (Hong Kong) Ltd  i161 Takao Cioco & Sartori Jewellery C89 Takat Gems USA Inc./Takat Jewels Inc. i19 Talbots (Birmingham) Ltd C130 Tara Kirkpatrick Jewellery B31 Tezer GmbH G108 Thai Design Distributors Ltd E91 Thai Silp Company i118 The Best Joyas GMN The Bijou Box Company C131 The Birmingham Assay Office H109 The Branch B41 The Company Of Master Jewellers Ltd H99 The Goldsmith Magazine GMN The Goldsmiths’ Company i63 The Jeweller’s Box Company C140 The Jewellery Display Co Ltd C149 The Laboratory at the Birmingham Assay Office H109 The Mineral Warehouse J109 The Opal People K88 The PMC Studio C81 The Rowell Trading Company J121 The Silvery B21 Ti Sento F161 Tianguis Jackson E49 Tina Lilienthal B47 Tirisi Jewelry G151 Tivon Fine Jewellery H108 Tomasz Donocik A39 Town Talk Polish Co Ltd E128 Treasure House Limited E79 Tregawne A111 Tresor Paris Hasbani UK i49 Trollbeads F90 Turquoise Jewellery Ltd F141 U Ungar & Ungar Unique Jewelry Ltd United Color Gems Inc

H79 E115 i31

V Vera Sterchele H128 Veronique Designs Limited A13 Very Precious F142 VFM Consulting Ltd C158 Vimal Arts & Crafts F160 Vinod Kotahwala Inc. J28 Vista Jewelry Ltd i141 Vizati Ltd D81 Vogue Diamond J68 W W Hamond - Original Whitby Jet Shop G79 Weston Beamor G131 William Cheshire C30 World Shiner (UK) Ltd & Mireya (UK) Ltd H80 X XMC International Ltd

H139

Y Yaron Morhaim Jewellery Design Ltd B80 Yuki Mitsuyasu B11

IJL 2011 show guide

E C169

F F160

E161

E160

F161

C160 F154

G

F150

E159

C159 E150

F151

E151

H G151

G140

C150

C149

C148

C141

Mall Room

C140

F148

F141

F142

G141

G134

F140

J i165

J166

H148

H147

i148

i143

H140

i155

K

J167

i161

H150

E148

E141

A149

I

H151

K164

K166

J169

J163

K162

J154

Crussh

K154

J157

J155

i149

C151

H158

H149

C158

A151

Inspiration Theatre Sponsored by Spinning

Seating

C161

J150

H141

J153

K150

A141

DP

A131

C138

F130

E130

C131

F139

G131

G130

F135

C130

i138

H139

i145

J144

i141

H131

J145

J147

J143

K140

Cappuccino

K144

Espresso

South African Pavilion

A168

A161

Hampton Room

Industry InsightS

F170

E170

C

Loose Diamonds & Precious Gems

C163

C170

i140

A171

A

39

F121

H129

G129 H128

i128

i121

i124

Boulevard Bar

J122

E115 C116

C100

Catering

E109

G109

G108

H108

H109

i108

i109

i104

J109

J108

D91

C95

C91

C90

A91

K108

E101 F100

J100

H101

G101

K104

Diamond Club Lounge

i100 J101

C99

C98

IJL Sales Lounge

J111

i101

E98

E99

E90

F99 G95

F90

G99

H98

H99

i98

i99

E91

J99 J94

i95

B93 C94 D94

F91

H91

G91

J95

K96

J91

K92

Editors Choice Feature

i90 i91

D89

D88

C89

B89

A89

E88

D90

Cafe Bar & Up to Restaurant

F88

E89

F89

G89

G88

H88

H89

i88

G81

B80

B81

D81

E81

D80

A81

C80

C81

H80

F81

i89

J88

i85

J84

H81 i80

i81

J89

J90

K88 K84

J85

Global Media Network Lounge

J81

J82

C70

C79

D71

B71

C71

B79

E78

D74

C68

F71

E70

G70

E71

E68

C69

E61

F61

E64 C60

B60

A61

C61 E60

A60

F.Hinds High Street by Design Competition Winners

G78

E79

Design Gallery Bar

B59 C58

B55

A59

B53

A51

C54

E59

F58

F59

E50

C51

A55 B54

F51 G50

GCDC

E51

F50

E49

F48

A25

B24

D41 D43 D45 D47 D49

C45 C49 C43 C41

C34 C32

F49

G48

G79

H79

H78

i79

i78

G71 H71

K78

i71

i70

Seating

G61

H69

H64 H60

i68

i69

J69

J68

J61

i63

G51

K68

H61

H58

H59

i58

i51

J58

J59

J50

i50

H50

J51

H51

H45

H48

i48

i49

J49

J40

K40

J41

E39

Bright Young Gems

H41

G41

i40

i41

F41

E41

F38

Dash!

F39

G31

H39

H38

i39

i38

H35

J38

J39

K30

i35 J34

F31

J31 F30

KICKSTART

H30

J30

H31 i31

C30

B23

J79

J78

J70

G49

F40

E40

C31

B29

A29

A21

D40

C29

C21

D25

E29

F28

E21

F11

H21

G21

i28

i29

F20

i21

J28

i20

D21

K26

K28

J20

10

J21

K20

J19

K18

J11

K10

A A1

D19

C15 C10

C3

F18 G11

E16 E11

E14

H18

H19

H10

H11

i18

i19

J10

i10 i11

Cloakroom

D11

C11

C C2

E19

E18

D14

D13 D15

C17 C12

B B1

C19

D10

A11

B11

Up to Press Office & Seminars

A13

B13 B15

A15

B19 C16

D18

A19 B12 B14 B16

Victoria Room

A18

B21

D29 D27

E24

A28 A30

A31

A24

A33

B37

A37 A35

D42

E48

C40

B31 B33 B35

B39

D48

D28

B42

A39

B34 B36 B38

B41

D50

D20

B49 B47

C44

A41

B32

Harbour Room

A32 A36 A38

A43

B45

B46

A40

A47

C48

C26

A49

B48

A48

B51

IJL Runway Sponsored by AAGAARD

J80

B78

A69 B68

Whitehall Room

J110

J105

D101

D70

Retailing in a Multichannel World

F109

F108

F101 G100

A71

Press Office

J115

E105

D95

B99

A99 B90

B76

Successful Retailing

J112

C101

A79

The Restaurant

D

Seating

K110

i114

G111

H111

C105 D104

A101

J117

D111

D109

C111 C109

C108

J119

i111

Chamilia

D108

B101

A103

A105

B

H115

Sponsored by

C115

J118 J116

Gems

i119

i118

Watches

H119

G119

F111

C117

Design Gallery

E119

J120

Silver Jewellery

C119 D119

A119

H121

G121

Fine Jewellery

E124

C121

B109

To Business Centre

J139

Hong Kong Pavilion

C124

C120

A111 A115

i139 J124

Designer Brands

E121

E128

C129

C128

A121

Jewellery Solutions

Up to Seminar Room

J29

Windsor Room

F131

D D1

F

E E1

G

F1

ENTRANCE ENTRANCE

H

I H1

Organisers Office

i1

J J1

K K1

Industry

40

Now trending… Syreeta Tranfield, event manager for IJL, catches up with Stylesight’s Sandrine Maggiani and Claire Foster as they prepare for their forthcoming trends seminar

Sandrine Maggiani

Claire Foster

I

nspiration is key to good business – when jewellery retailers and designers feel inspired, they are at their best. Gaining an insight into the latest trends, whether they are retailing trends or design trends, is an excellent way to feel inspired. This is the reason we provide specialist trend forecasting at International Jewellery London (IJL). Leading international agency Stylesight is presenting a trends seminar this year. I interviewed speakers Sandrine Maggiani, European trend director, and Claire Foster, accessories editor, ahead of the show.

What will you present at IJL?

Sandrine: Stylesight will present A/W 12 Megatrends + Jewellery, offering an in-depth look at the overarching trends influencing design for the A/W 2012 season, with a focus on the subsequent design directives for the jewellery and accessories market. The four trends presented will be Raw Energy, Sensing Matter, Wild Craft and Digital Dimension.

Lots of retailers come to IJL to source products for the Christmas period. What will be the hot trends for Christmas in terms of jewellery design? Claire: For Christmas, we will see a return to simple constructions and a celebration of standout gemstones. Geometric, modernist themes intercept settings and design details. Clusters of mixed colours and materials evolve the classic holiday season showpieces to create a contemporary aesthetic. Layered stones and fresh placement update cocktail rings and statement neckpieces.

Please could you give us an insight into some of the jewellery trends we can expect to see in 2012? Claire: A focus on natural elements brings a new attitude to raw minerals, with marble and wood being used to reflect wild craft and raw energy themes. Natural leather and warm toned metals are also emerging as important materials for jewellery designs, confirming the shift to noble, honest concepts that relate to the human sensibility. Colour palettes for decorative flourishes and foundation materials take reference from the great outdoors, celebrating the unique tones found in nature. An introspective viewpoint also evokes a new theme centered around the human body, with anatomical keynotes inspiring new jewellery structures. Cells, bones and blood inspire and evolve previous animalistic themes to

set a more graphic look. Laser cut or intricately constructed cuffs, collars and rings are a directional adaptation of some of these key items. Cosmetic tones ground this look, which also features highlights of deep reds, and fiery hues. Speaking to a truly futuristic theme, digital design contributes to the new fluidity and rapid prototyping silhouette direction. Innovative materials, such as matte finish metals, plastics and ceramics, are key. This new feminine aesthetic can be applied to statement jewellery pieces from neckpieces to structured bangles.

Why is an understanding of the trends so important to both manufacturers and retail jewellers? Claire: Understanding and developing the trends for your customer is an essential part of the process these days, as a huge majority of consumers are increasingly fashion and trend savvy and so know what seems new, and what they have already bought into. Globalisation and the access to unlimited references online mean that the fresh take on seasonal trends is key for designers to stay ahead and make wise choices about materials, colour and design.

Are there basic rules to interpreting a trend?

Claire: It is always essential to understand your customer. This means the difference between a think tank directional concept and the outcome of that concept becoming a wearable and desirable piece of jewellery. Apply your customer needs and spending habits to develop the trend in a way tailored to the market, with consideration to your costings and resources.  At Stylesight we look for trends emerging in a number of diverse places – from the street, to the runway, to the vintage markets in France – so an overview of factors often results in us recognising that something is happening and being reported on across a number of countries, market levels and mediums, confirming initial trend directions. The Stylesight presentation is taking place at IJL on 4 September at 1:45pm in the new Inspiration Theatre, and is free for visitors to attend.

Visit us at the international Jewellery london 2011 stand no. e39 Alternatively email info@kranzandziegler.co.uk or call our UK sales office on 01530 588166

2011

New launch for September - Limelight, the new rhodium plated jewellery range from 21st Century Silver. Plus more exciting silver additions. 21st Century Silver - the contemporary jewellery specialists. Tel/Fax: 020 8339 3731 E-mail: info@21stcenturysilver.co.uk Web: www.21stcenturysilver.co.uk

TAKING STOCK

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Ruth Bridges will be showing her contemporary diamond solitaire ring collection at IJL this year. The new 18-carat gold rings with brilliantcut diamonds are available with 0.15-, 0.25- or 0.50-carat stones of GSi quality. The 0.50-carat ring has the added detail of tiny diamonds on the collet. The rings sit nicely alongside Ruth’s popular existing collections and her collection of pear-shaped, stone-set stacking rings, which are also new for IJL 2011. Information: www.ruthbridges.co.uk or info@ruthbridges.co.uk IJL stand: D45

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Harrison Brothers & Howson has launched a Diamond Jubilee collection, which is illustrated in its four-page leaflet. It will be stocking the range in such a way as to enable quick delivery, and the stand shown is available when certain collections are purchased at no extra charge. The company has two other catalogues that show all its current ranges, which are usually held in stock for immediate delivery. Information: 0207 622 7212 or silver@harrison-howson.com IJL stand: C115

Takin Taking

stock

Ch Dahlinger says that its new window displays for the autumn will ¬¬

help attract customers into its customers’ shops. “Our display collections and special packages will refresh your presentation and are available at keen prices and with quick delivery,” the company comments. “Accent colours, such as red and lime green, are still a key feature of any window display. New ideas in packaging, particularly the 325 Elegance collection of boxes and Christmas limited-edition bags and boxes, will make an impact as you prepare for the busiest time of the year.” Information: 01473 620 720 or www.dahlinger.com IJL stand: C121

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Stainless steel jewellery continues to increase in popularity, and with precious metals becoming prohibitively expensive, IFJ Limited of Reading says now is the time to take a serious look at lower cost alternatives. IFJ has been supplying quality stainless steel jewellery for over five years and has many happy customers. Its comprehensive range includes bangles, bracelets, rings and pendants for ladies and gents. Information: 0118 947 1405 or www.steelyourself.com IJL stand: I140

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Ntinga’s range of fine diamond eternity rings and silver gem jewellery now includes Pure Attraction, a silver, magnetic, multi-coloured collection of five colours and three thicknesses, with matching attachments and rings and complemented with a number of accessories. The item pictured is from its Gem Silver range, which includes matching rings, earrings and pendants in amethyst, blue topaz, citrine, smoky quartz, and lime quartz. Information: 0208 959 6550, howard@ntinga.co.uk or www.ntinga.co.uk IJL stand: J116

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TAKING STOCK

Jack Schpektor started in the ­­

diamond business in Amsterdam when he was 19 years old, first cutting and polishing the diamonds and progressing onto sorting them by colour, quality and polish. After a few years he moved to Antwerp and started his own business, mainly specialising in natural fancy colour diamonds and servicing customers’ white diamond requests. Jack, a member of the Antwerp Diamond Exchange and Club and London Diamond Bourse, is based in Antwerp and London and says his guarantee is “trust, service and a quick response.” He is able to offer a selection of fancy colours from 0.05 to four carat, with and without certificate. Information: www.saymazal.com or jackschpektor@yahoo.co.uk IJL stand: H10

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Sunshine Exim has been supplying fine jewellery to wholesalers, manufacturers and retailers for over 20 years. Over these years, the company has become known for making quality items that range from classical and contemporary designs to custom-made pieces of jewellery. Sunshine Exim says its main aim is to continue supplying fine jewellery to its existing clientele while also entering into new longterm partnerships with prominent wholesalers, manufacturers and retailers. A large selection of diamond eternity rings is also available, and custom-made pieces can be supplied three weeks after final approval. Information: 0207 242 9299 or www.sunshineexim.com IJL stand: I11

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The new Cabaret collection from Chamilia is inspired by the Montmartre district of Paris, where the culture of cabaret began. The rich colours and ornate details seek to “perfectly capture the spirit of the cabaret.” Sterling silver is complemented by opulent colours from crystal Swarovski Elements and Italian Murano glass, “bringing the best of artistic influences from the past to the present.” Information: 0844 811 2142 or www.chamilia.com/uk IJL stand: F121/E121

Gracie J produces distinctive, contemporary, design-led jewellery made using ceramic beads dipped in silver and threaded onto fine quality leather. Featuring a varied selection of many designs – choker-style chunky pieces, strings of beads and statement jewellery that turns heads – design award winner Gracie J says all are “beautifully packaged, and perfect if you’re looking for something in the mid-price range that will appeal to customers looking for that extra special yet affordable gift.” All items are designed and made in the UK. Information: 01578 760 370 or www.graciej.co.uk IJL stand: A32

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IJL will again see the attendance of Nexus Pearls, which will be exhibiting new ranges of jewellery including pieces in silver, like the bracelet shown. Nexus says Tahitian cultured pearls are featuring heavily this season, but that instead of using traditional gold – the price of which is at an all-time high – it’s using silver to keep the ranges at a low price while keeping the quality high. Pearl strands will also be available, with some offers across the ranges and a full range of clasps to complement. Information: 0121 554 9999 or sales@nexuspearls.co.uk IJL stand: J108

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TAKING STOCK

The Bug Store, part of Reading-based Gift Time Products, ¬¬

has introduced a new product – the Just Look Mini Microscope. A useful jewellers’ tool to check those tricky-to-see hallmarks or to sell on a retail basis, Gift Time says the special crystal optics and high-intensity LED light give “the ‘wow’ factor like you’ve never seen before.” A full CD catalogue is available on request, or a price-free version can be downloaded from the website. Trade price lists are sent on request. Information: 0118 947 1405, www.justlookmicroscope.co.uk or www.gift-time-products.co.uk IJL stand: I140

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For strong and striking yet delicate pieces, Julia Burness Jewellery has a unique collection of sterling silver and vermeil lace jewellery. The company also specialises in one-off bespoke work, creating jewellery from pieces of vintage lace, and is especially ideal for bridal wear, being able to match jewellery perfectly to a lace veil or gown. Information: info@juliaburnessjewellery.com or www.juliaburnessjewellery.com

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With jewel tones set to be one of winter’s hottest trends, Marcia Lanyon Ltd says it’s ready to “encourage your adventurous side” with a wide range of vibrantly-coloured stones and beads to choose from. Browse from a hand-picked selection ranging from playful dyed howlite and striking lapis lazuli to elegant briolettes and beads in all the colours of the rainbow, plus an extensive collection of freshwater pearls. Information: 0207 602 2446 or sales@marcialanyon.com

IJL stand: B54

IJL stand: J51

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The PUK welding device is a compact and versatile TIG welder from Sutton Tools. Fine, precision welds can be carried out either free-hand or under a 10x binocular microscope. Made by Lampert in Germany, it has operating principles very similar to those of a laser welder. Sutton Tools explains that the device allows clean, instantaneous welds, and in contrast to soldered joints, heat is highly localised and rapidly dissipated. This allows components to be handheld and welds to be made close to heatsensitive gemstones. Information: 0121 236 7139 or www.suttontools.co.uk IJL stand: A119

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Charmian Beaton will be showing three new collections at IJL 2011, all launched this year. Shown here is her Mariposa range, which has been a great success this summer and is expanding for IJL, with coloured gemstones added in place of the brilliant-cut diamonds. Mariposa, meaning butterfly in Spanish, is an eye-catching cocktail range in frosted 925 silver and 18 carat yellow gold, set with trillion-cut lemon citrine and round, brilliant-cut diamonds. It can also be ordered in 925 silver, set with the aforementioned gemstones. Information: 01622 609 650 or mail@charmianbeaton.co.uk IJL stand: D108

REGENT’S PLACE, 338 EUSTON ROAD, LONDON NW1 3BT T: 02075448572 F: 02075448401

info@advancesolutions-uk.com www.advancesolutions-uk.com

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London Road, the distinctive gold jewellery brand that launched nationally last September, is introducing several new collections at IJL. These include the Black Diamond Tassel collection, and Willow – a new pearl and yellow gold collection created exclusively for London Road by designer Hannah Bedford. London Road will also be showcasing additions to some of its best-selling ranges, including the Kew and Portobello Diamond Raindrops collections. Information: 0844 871 8454 or www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk

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At this year’s IJL, Mancini is “proud and excited” to introduce to the UK its newest range – Monella Milano. Consisting of silver jewellery set using crystals made with Swarovski Elements, Mancini says Monella is “perfect for fashion-savvy shoppers looking to snap up affordable delights.” Information: mancini@monella.co.uk or www.monella.co.uk

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Sema Sezen, the designer and owner of Tezer, has this season taken her inspiration from the unique texture of lace. The collection takes the delicate intricacy of lace and transforms it into a girly sterling silver collection of necklaces, bracelets, pendants, earrings and rings. The necklaces are adaptable to be worn either long or short and are also available in gold plate. For more information, please contact UK sales agent Sharon Acton. Information: 07774 928 045

IJL stand: G141

IJL stand: F139

IJL stand: G108

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Deema is a designer based in Oman who seeks to “capture the latest trends and insights of the prestigious jewellery markets.” Combining this with Arabian Gulf heritage, Deema has come up with state-of-the-art designs for Arabian jewellery with a modern look, adding a different flavour to the options available at this year’s IJL. “Our creativity and adherence to excellence is expressed in hundreds of forms and styles,” says the company, “delivering a very unique appeal and jewellery that is finely-finished, in exclusive and limited editions.” Deema’s collection includes rings, pendants, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and bangles in precious metals and incorporating an array of precious and semi-precious stones and pearls. Information: shadya@deemacollection.com IJL stand: J120

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Trollbeads’ latest Debut bracelets offer a great selection of colour combinations for stylish looks this season, including the emerald tones of the Green Shadow and the Silver Trace beads of the Free Spirit bracelet (pictured); and the black and white duo of Black Spot and Black Armadillo in the Timeless bracelet. There are six bracelets in the new range, each featuring a Trollbeads sterling silver chain, a pretty lace Lock and two specially-selected Murano glass beads in complementary colours. Information: 0117 377 4214 or www.trollbeads.co.uk IJL stand: F90

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In our June issue, Jewellery Focus chose Nicola Bond, of Designed By Bond, as our featured designer following her successful launch at Spring Fair. As well as her Medina range and her newer Rye collection, she will be premiering her men’s jewellery at this year’s IJL. These pieces feature blackened silver, kiln enamels and her distinctive trademark raindrops. Information: 07931 928 937 or www.designedbybond.com IJL stand: C54

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Lavan Designer Jewellery, established in 1993, will be exhibiting its latest designs at IJL for the first time this year. David Weinberger’s jewellery collection features intricate contemporary and classical designs combining gold, sterling silver, precious and semi-precious stones, including opals and pearls. Delicate lines and soft shapes are finished with the “unmistakable and subtly luxurious gleam” of precious metals. All jewellery is hand-made in Buckingham. Information: www.lavan.co.uk IJL stand: A29

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Ag Silver will launch its autumn 2011 collection in August, giving customers a chance to start planning their Christmas purchasing. With jewel colours on-trend this season, the collection includes colourful pearls, rich natural stones and plain silver and 18-carat gold mixed with cord, for an up-to-the-minute look. Charlie Maddocks, Ag creative director, comments: “With jewel colours and rubber, cord and leather set to be all the rage, we’ve had fun with our autumn launch. We’re also giving our customers the opportunity to place their Christmas orders earlier this year, giving us a chance to back best-sellers, and in return we’ll be giving those accounts that order early a little something back.” Information: 01603 631 314, claire@agsilver.co.uk or www.agsilver.co.uk

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With gold prices rocketing, Gemelite says more and more customers are switching to palladium. Gemelite is able to offer diamond-set jewellery at price points close to its nine-carat range. Hallmarked by the London Assay Office, and with no need to rhodium-plate, with Gemelite jewellers now have an alternative to nine-carat white gold. Feel free to contact the company for a catalogue or to book an appointment to see its range. Information: 0800 023 2952 or www.gemelite.co.uk

Following a successful Harrogate Home & Gift Show, Valentina is looking ¬¬

forward to a very busy autumn season. Its new collections – Equinox, Berrylicious and Avant Garde – are reportedly proving very popular, with colours that include warm chocolates, reds and golds, vibrant greens and teals and rich, dark amethyst and soft pinks in Murano glass rounds, squares and hearts. Its Romance collection (pictured) features Murano glass hearts suspended from hand-strung Swarovski and agate bead necklaces and bracelets, with matching drop earrings. Information: 01638 552 879 or info@valentinajewellery.com

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H3-D Technology proudly introduces a new service called Jewellery Innovations. Combining H3-D’s CAD/CAMbased design and manufacturing expertise with over 20 years of goldsmithing and casting experience courtesy of Mandos Designs, Jewellery Innovations offers the entire jewellery manufacturing process as one simple service. By bringing all stages of manufacturing together under one roof, the company says it can guarantee a quick, thorough and easy-to-use service. “Whether it’s handmade, CAD-made, or a complex combination of the two, you can be confident you will get results both you and your customers will love,” the company comments. Information: 0207 242 5535 or www.jewelleryinnovation.com

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Hatton Garden-based Villamarts Ltd is a premier loose diamond wholesaler and jewellery manufacturer. The company says that its focus is on competitive prices and excellent service, and that its friendly staff members are available to assist with any enquiries. Villamarts has a large available stock of loose certified diamonds that can be viewed online, and interested retailers can also visit the showroom to view the company’s range of diamond jewellery, including diamond-set wedding bands, engagement rings, diamond studs and line bracelets for all price ranges. Information: 0207 417 0260, ron@villamarts.co.uk or www.villamarts.co.uk  Dutch brand Bulatti says it has “once again ­­

produced a stunning collection of jewellery for the more discerning retailer, who demands quality, style and original design.” Its latest collection – which makes extensive use of Swarovski crystal and Swarovski pearls and is delivered with gift packaging, guarantee certificates and free POS merchandise – is only available via selected and approved retailers, “ensuring maximum profits and exclusivity within an area.” Contact Lorraine Thomas for more information, or view the full collection on the company’s website. Information: 01245 360 949, lorraine@bulatti.co.uk or www.bulatti.co.uk

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Elaine Jenkins is a Liverpool-based jeweller and silversmith. After graduating from Liverpool Hope University with a Bachelor of Design with Honours degree in 2008, she set up business in a Liverpool studio making collection work for galleries across the UK and commissions for private clients. Elaine’s work is inspired by the natural world, focusing on texture and contrasting materials, and is made predominantly from silver, gold and precious and non-precious stones; although she also uses platinum within her commission work. Elaine is currently working on a new collection that will be launched at the Liverpool Design Show (7 to 9 October) and will also be available at the MJN Christmas exhibition at Manchester’s Art Gallery. Information: 07519 205 303 or www.elainejenkins.co.uk

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Chrysalis has just launched its new range of Baltic amber beads to complement its vast collection of colourful handmade glass and cat’s eye beads. Each amber bead has a sterling silver insert and Chrysalis branding. The amber beads come in shades of milky white, lemon, rich shades of cherry red and deep honey tones of cognac, and in both faceted and cabochon finishes. Each amber bead adds an individual touch to jewellery as no two will ever be identical. Information: 01823 698 898 or www.silver-willow.com

For information please contact Fable Trading Ltd on 0117 37 7 4214 W W W.TROLLBEADS.CO.UK

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Cavendish French will be launching a new collection of friendship bracelets at the 2011 Autumn Fair show (hall 3, stand P01). The range is skilfully designed and hand-crafted using silk, sterling silver, semi-precious stones and crystals in a range of colours to suit every fashion or style. Wearers can create their own look by wearing several together, as is the current trend, or as a single bracelet “to add that final touch of colour, sparkle and style.” Information: 0800 731 4389, sales@cavendishfrench.com or www.cavendishfrench.com

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RGM Products Ltd stocks a wide range of cultured freshwater pearls in different shapes and sizes, including traditional long drilled and potato pearls, Biwa and larger, more unusual shapes. All are available loose-strung or finished with a choice of fastener. RGM also supplies a wide range of gemstone jewellery, from inexpensive chip necklaces to fancy beads and matching silver and nine-carat gold earrings. The company is a direct importer and says it can therefore offer competitive prices with a prompt and reliable service. Information: 01904 720 000 or www.rgm.co.uk

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Twenty years ago, Mayanna made the observation that amber has been used to adorn men and women for at least 10,000 years and pledged to do its bit to continue that tradition into the next 1,000. Now, in the second decade of the new millennium, Mayanna says its amber jewellery is as fresh and modern as ever. “The selection of the very best amber pieces, combined with expert use of silver and gold, makes Mayanna amber jewellery what it is,” the company says. “It is beautifully designed jewellery with interesting lustrous amber.” Information: 01494 524 124 or anna@mayanna.com

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Perfect for the new season, Candy Bling bracelets are the latest accessories from Charms UK. Candy Bling is part of the Candy Bracelet collection, which includes over 50 bracelets and necklaces created in sterling silver with CZ, crystal and different colours of silk cord. The bracelets are available in one-, threeor 11-bead versions with black, white and coloured crystal and sterling silver. Information: 0117 968 3979 or www.charmsonline.co.uk

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To fill what it sees as a void in the modern silver ring market, KisSilver has introduced a range of contemporary, stylish and cocktail ring designs. Through constant demand, it has also added a collection of silver watches to its range, which come with a twoyear guarantee, while parent company Hanalex Ltd has brought out a brand new line of gold hoops, speciallydesigned to be extra lightweight to help meet certain price points. All KisSilver products come with a box, and display stands are available. Information: 01270 872 395 or sales@hanalex.co.uk

With 40 years of experience in diamond manufacturing and trading, Shrenikstar offers a wide range of polished diamonds in all shapes and colours. The company specialises in 0.005pts up to 15 carats in qualities from IF to PQ3 in all colours from D to Z. Natural fancy colours are also offered, both with and without certificates. GIA, HRD and IGI certificates are additionally available, mainly in sizes from 0.30pts up to 15 carats. Information: 0032 3233 5916 or info@shrenikstar.com

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IJL 2011 show guide

Creative inspiration The British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) has always championed good UK design, and this year’s IJL is set to be packed with companies that have created products to excite the professional buyer. Lindsey Straughton, BJA marketing manager, picks out a few…

Chavin Jewellery: stand D10

Chavin Jewellery (pronounced sha-veen), a new designled ethical jewellery brand, is launching its first collection – Antiquity, designed by Ana De Costa. It combines the spicy mythology, colours and craftsmanship of Peruvian culture with spic-and-span interpretations by modern, freethinking designers. Jaguar rings are made from oxidised silver with black diamonds and rose gold with rubies; and there is also a rose gold double Jaguar head with rubies. www.chavinjewellery.com

Malcolm Morris: stand D18

Chavin Jewellery Malcolm Morris

Malcolm Morris has over 30 years of experience in designing and making stylish contemporary silver and gold jewellery. He will be exhibiting his most popular range called Apple Blossom, along with his two latest collections Magma and Oyster. www.malcolm-morris.com

William Cheshire: stand C30

William Cheshire is a designer-maker who creates elegant and exciting jewellery, comfortably mixing fine fashion with bespoke and the commercial world. Working in silver and gold, the jewellery is often embellished with precious stones or enamels. This stylish pendant from the Libertine range (pictured) has received international acclaim. www.williamcheshire.com

William Cheshire

Anthony Blakeney

Anthony Blakeney: stand A43

Anthony Blakeney’s work this year has been inspired by the twisting and turning of plant roots, especially the rose. He takes a real piece of root, casts it, and manipulates it into a beautifully tactile and wearable item. Daring and strikingly simple, this range will add interest to any display. www.anthonyblakeney.co.uk

Alexis

Daisy Knights: stand D40

Daisy Knights, who cut her teeth on the Bright Young Gems and KickStart stands, exhibits in her own right this year. Every piece is handcrafted in her studio in the Cotswolds or in her workshop using 100 per cent recycled silver and ethically sourced materials. Her use of gold vermeil gives pieces a rich look at affordable price points. www.daisyknights.com

Dove Daisy Knights

Alexis Dove: stand C29

Experienced designer-retailer Alexis will be showing the silver ‘Curio’ range at the show alongside her popular wild rose and blossom ranges. All available in silver with gold and rose gold vermeil options. www.alexisdove.com

Alexis Dove

IJL 2011 show guide

Tomasz Donocik: stand A39

Tomasz will be showing his latest fine jewellery collection of 18 carat white, rose and black rhodium gold with round diamond pave and semi-precious stones of round ruby and tsavorite. Inspired by the paradox of the natural world, the ‘Garden of Good & Evil’ collection fuses the sinister side of beauty with the evident, as delicate snowbells with fluid moving cups juxtapose Venus fly traps. www.tomaszdonocik.com

Andrew Geoghegan: stand E64 Andrew

Tomasz Donocik

Geoghegan

Five years since he last exhibited at Earls Court, Andrew knows that he has to pull out all the stops to show the industry that he truly is a tour de force in the bridal and cocktail market. New launches include gents’ wedding rings (a first for AG), the Satellite pendant, Celestial pendant and the Triumph. Pictured is his 10 millimetre Tahitian pearl and diamond Mohawk ring. www.andrewgeoghegan.com

Doreth Jones: stand C31G

Doreth Jones has been inspired to create some new and exciting pieces for her debut at IJL, incorporating coloured stones. Working in recycled silver, Doreth Jones’s award-winning pieces are the embodiment of urban chic and intricate beauty, appealing to the confident and discerning individual. www.dorethjones.com

Doreth Jones

Claire English – Special Jewellery Co: stand C31B

Claire English

Claire’s whimsical, unmistakably English designs are informed by her insatiable interest in the narrative potential of objects. Like a magpie she gathers stories, presenting familiar items in a mischievous and unexpected, yet commercial way. www.claireenglish.com

Cabbage is King: stand C31E

Cabbage is King

Greig Alderman from Manchester makes exquisite statement pieces, which serve to blur the distinctions between jewellery and art. Cabbage is King is characteristically original as Greg attempts to incorporate sociological ideas into his thoughtprovoking designs. www.cabbageisking.com

Emma Turpin: stand C31H

Emma’s aim is to bring the old and the new together. She has a passion for traditional craftsmanship, which is reflected in her style. Emma’s ‘Maidens Garlands’ collection uses a technique developed by herself, to create hand-folded fine silver rosettes. www.emmaturpin.com

Emma Turpin

The BJA (IJL stand H151) has launched its new website – – with a fresh look to support its ever-expanding services and benefits. “We have updated the member services and have added relevant new services to the Association’s portfolio,” comments Lindsey Straughton. “The Designer Showcase will give our growing number of designers the opportunity to enhance their entry with more images to help sell their products.” Meanwhile, the ‘Commission A Designer’ page has proved most popular and lists designers by geographical location to help the public find someone local.

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Focus on

children’s jewellery

Bold, bright and colourful, jewellery for children is a booming sector that is showing no sign of abating. Jon Chapple explores some of this season’s latest trends

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hether geared towards toddlers or teenagers, the children’s jewellery sector is one part of the British market that continues to boom, with evidence pointing towards the demand for jewellery for little ones growing at an astonishing rate. And as the sector’s profile and the number of brands

involved increases, more retailers are sure to want to take advantage of the potential profits to be made in the years ahead, meaning there’s never been a better time to explore the range of options available. Research has shown that from a very young age children are naturally drawn to bold, brightly-coloured objects,

so it’s no surprise that eye-catching collections in a range of vibrant colours are very much in vogue when it comes to children’s jewellery. Jo for Girls, which experienced 300 per cent growth last year, says it’s currently “finding the market buoyant” in terms of the demand for its “fun, glitzy, girly and classic designs.” Creators Keith and Linda saw the potential for the children’s jewellery market seven years ago, and say the secret to their success is recognising that little girls and teens “more and more want to be older than they are. “By including a number of grownup designs and re-designing them especially to fit the smaller person, Jo for Girls is achieving rapidly growing sales,” they comment. “Although this is a children’s range, we are selling to both adults and children so it is vital to have packaging that appeals to all. The inclusion of an exclusive, corded

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‘trophy’ bag to the bright display already available really makes an impact on both display and sales.” With huge demand for its cord friendship bracelets, Jo for Girls has recently created eight designs of pink cord with silver charms, while a new three-strand pink cord has also been added to its charm bead collection. Its Birthstone Angels range – which comes with a unique ‘sentiment card’ in co-ordinating colours – is also proving popular, and the Tantalising Strawberry collection is “being sold by the punnet!” The Little Angels range is a designer collection of children’s jewellery from Mancini “for the little angel in your life.” Each piece from the Little Angels range, which includes rings, necklaces, bangles and bracelets in designs like ducks, angels, hearts and butterflies, is created using 925 sterling silver with stones sourced for their outstanding

colour clarity. All Little Angels products come gift-wrapped in luxury brand packaging, exclusively designed to make a special keepsake. Kali Ma Designs’ latest range of fun Ruby B. children’s jewellery, introduced at Home and Gift this year, is ideal for children from three years old through to teenagers. The range includes colourful enamelled party polka dots, hearts and strawberries, precision-cut sterling silver animal charms, alphabet and number charms and a sparkly assortment of Austrian crystal studs and charms, with each individual piece carefully packaged with its own branded Ruby B. bag and organza pouch. “Children’s jewellery is proving to be an expanding market area where customers are looking for something a little different while maintaining a competitive price,” says Kali Ma managing director Emma Perkins. “Our stunning little pieces are available

with a complete set of branded point of sale displays that provide a very marketable and unique assortment to the retailer.” Priding itself on its “treasure trove of little gems for junior jewellery fanatics,” Paradise Jewellery has an extensive silver jewellery range that includes crystal ball pendants decorated with colourful flowers and swirls, pretty hearts, cute animals, fairies and flowers in crystal, cubic zirconia, mother of pearl or simply in plain silver. Finish off with Paradise’s choice of fine chains and packaging to create the perfect gift.

1) Jo for Girls: 01887 820 760   (IJL stand E159) 2) Kali Ma Designs: 01803 872 555   (IJL stand F30) 3) Mancini: 0191 214 7074   (IJL stand F139) 4) Paradise Jewellery: 0117 377 4280

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Global gathering Since early childhood, Pippa Small has been traversing the globe, developing interests in both human rights and traditional jewellery design. Louise Hoffman finds out how she has succeeded in marrying these two elements, to positive effect Your journey to jewellery design has taken you around the world. Can you tell us the story of your career to date?

I was very lucky to have a mother who loved adventure and who took us travelling with her from a very young age. My earliest memories are of the bazaar in Marrakech, filled with storytellers and magicians, healers and dancing monkeys, and ever since I have had a fascination with other cultures, landscapes and ways of life. I started to travel on my own while at university, where I had gone to study anthropology and later a master’s degree in medical anthropology. By then I was very interested in human rights, particularly the rights of minorities and indigenous groups who have been so marginalised and discriminated against all across the world. After getting my MA I went to work with a local grass roots organisation in Sarawak and then Sabha in Borneo on land rights issues and cultural rights. I was in awe of the women and men I was working with – they were from the local Kadazan and Penan tribes and were so brave and risked so much to fight for the right to protect their ancestral lands from loggers or palm oil plantations, and large scale development projects. From there I went to work in Thailand with another NGO (nongovernmental organisation) working with indigenous peoples from all over Asia. I continued to work in this area for a few years, finding the work fascinating and the communities I was lucky enough to spend time with so

Designer

“I have made jewellery since I was a child, gathering beads, buttons, pebbles and shells and making strings of long necklaces and bracelets to hold close to me” rich with knowledge about their environment and how to live with it. It was a very inspiring time for me and fuelled my interest in jewellery as a way of communicating so much about who we are and our place in the world. I have made jewellery since I was a child, gathering beads, buttons, pebbles and shells and making strings of long necklaces and bracelets to hold close to me. Over time my jewellery started to be in demand, and when I came back to London after spells working in Asia I would have requests from friends to make pieces – some would bring boxes of treasures they had found on the beach or gathered on travels, and with my little drill I would string these stories together to make pieces they could wear out of all their souvenirs. I remember one summer when I was working with Burmese refugees in Thailand and then went on to have my first show at Paris Fashion Week, I was astounded that people could think of such frivolous things as clothes and jewellery when there were so many terrible things happening in the world. I have since found a sense of balance and understanding that all these different realities do co-exist. I started to sell to a few shops like the Cross in Notting Hill Gate and Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, as well as Barneys in New York. I was working with shells, rough crystals and river-tumbled gems that I would drill and string. I later started to work with a Nepalese silversmith and designed collections that were inspired by ancient Greek and Japanese jewellery, and by the tribal pieces I had seen the ladies and men wearing in the communities I spent time with. I started to work in Jaipur about 15 years ago – finding a team of goldsmiths and stonecutters whose work was beautiful, as well as finding India a constant source of inspiration. The appreciation grew and I started to sell more and split my time between working with local NGOs in Asia and designing jewellery. Then about nine years ago, a friend – the gallerist Rebecca Hossack – suggested I go and work in Botswana with the San Bushmen of the Kalahari. It was a wonderful experience, and I ran a workshop on craft with the women – we worked with leather, ostrich beads and traded glass beads, making jewellery with porcupine quills, eggshells and pieces of scented wood, and bags of leather decorated with coloured beads. I went back the following summer and we made a collection of pieces to put on show at an exhibition in London, as well as a film to show where the pieces came from. I realised that there was a way of working with people that generated a much-needed income, allowing them to open a local market for tourists who came to the national parks nearby, and also most importantly giving the men and women a sense of self-confidence – they were proud their work was being bought and taken to London, and that people would see who they were and where they came from. In between my Botswana work I was hired to design for Tom Ford at Gucci – it was a great honour and took me a long time to believe they had not made a mistake! I was given free rein to design using colour; a more handmade feel that one usually does not associate with Gucci; and more organic forms. It was a wonderful job and I learnt a great deal about working for a big company, working with a team and making full collections. I then went on to design for Chloe under Phoebe Philo, and I made collections for Nicole Farhi, Bamford and later started to collaborate with ethical brand, MADE. I jumped at the chance of going to Panama and working with the Kuna Indians, and I worked for a few years with the Kuna in Kuna Yala, drawing from their traditional techniques and design of flat gold sheet cut into wonderful birds, fish and plant forms. We made beautiful collections of gold chains with cascading butterflies, birds, stars and moons. It was an amazing experience working with them. Four years ago I was asked by the charity Turquoise Mountain to go to Kabul and design a collection with local craftsman and to teach a little at their school, and about a year later I started to work in Bolivia with a gold mine that was being primed to become one of the first Fairtrade gold

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mines. It is a small artisanal mine in the Yungas and it was finally certified in February this year. So this is a part of my story and how it has taken me around the world.

Which experiences stand out the most for you?

My most amazing experiences are spending time with a group of hunters in Sarawak, while researching illegal logging on their land – they live deep in the rainforest and it was an incredible experience staying with them and spending time in the jungle. Also the friendships I have built up with the craftsman in Kabul – despite all the barriers of culture, religion, gender and war, I have grown so close to them and so enjoyed working with them. Working with Tom Ford was also a thrill, but what I am most proud of is having been made an ambassador of the charity Survival International, which works with tribal people all over the world campaigning for their rights.

Where have you travelled to most recently?

I was in Uzbekistan – a place I have wanted to go for years, with tales of Samarkand, Bukhara long filling my imagination. I went to see if it would be possible to work with craftsman there on a silver jewellery collection, but the export laws are very difficult. I did come away so inspired by their textiles, however, and I hope to do some work with them. The old jewellery of Uzbekistan is beautiful and full of talismanic properties – they used lots of turquoise, coral and agates and it is bold and very beautiful.

What creative path have you taken to reach your current jewellery design style? Can you describe your stream of consciousness in terms of influences, inspirations and development of ideas?

I have been inspired by the people I meet; tribal design; ancient design; the natural world; formations from nature; the materials I work with – stones and rocks, pebbles and crystals; and the cultures I have been so lucky to work in. If I am working in another country I try and research their traditional techniques, materials and design aesthetics before I go to the place. I try and draw from their historical and traditional styles and interpret them in a way that I think will speak to the audiences in the west. It is a collaborative method carried out with the craftsmen I work with. I find a theme – something that interests me, for example the moon. During the 40-year anniversary of the Apollo I made a collection from mother of pearl, moonstones and white marble to celebrate the moon and also to restore the magic that was robbed when man landed on the moon. This year the collection from Afghanistan was very inspired by the Baroque influence of the early moguls who came from Afghanistan and made their way to India – using bright coloured stones, and all the gems from the country.

Which precious metals and gemstones do you most enjoy working with?

I love gold – I have been working in India for 15 years now and their love of gold has rubbed off. It is warm and soft, and it represents the sun and is very auspicious – the high carat we use wraps itself around the stones and holds them so smoothly. Also rock crystal – a mineral that is found throughout the world and is common and cheap but filled with such mystery. I love crystals full of inclusions and rainbows.

Who do you design your jewellery for?

I suppose ultimately I design for myself – what I choose to wear I hope will also appeal to someone else. I have a great belief in the power of rocks – their ability to comfort and the way they bring the earth close to us and seem by their beauty and strength to protect us. I also think jewellery is very much about memory in the west and has so many complex sentimental attachments for us.

Where next for Pippa Small?

Next – there are many things on the cards. Another collection in Afghanistan; a trip to Ghana to meet with gold miners who are entering the Fairtrade process; maybe a trip to the Central African Republic to work with the pygmies on some jewellery… many potential projects!

“If I am working in another country I try and research their traditional techniques, materials and design aesthetics before I go to the place”

70

How do they do that?

X-ray fluorescence testing

The Birmingham Assay Office has had to adapt to changes in the market throughout its history, and particularly in the last two decades. A prime example is the way that items are ‘sampled’ and tested, or ‘assayed’, to check the fineness of all components of the article prior to hallmarking. Technical director Dippal Manchanda explains how this process has changed

U

ntil the latter part of the 20th century the majority of items submitted for hallmarking were presented unfinished, and the removal of a minute sample of metal for assaying did not create too much of a problem as the customer had yet to ‘finish’ the item. However, the steady increase in imported items and the decline in the volume UK jewellery manufacturing trade in the late 1990s resulted in an influx of finished, highly polished goods from overseas for hallmarking. This presented the UK assay offices with an unprecedented challenge. Suddenly hallmarking parcels consisted predominately of complete, finished products, destined to be shipped straight to the retailer or importer, as opposed to semi-finished items awaiting polishing and finishing by the UK manufacturer.

How do they do that?

Up to this point all sampling and assaying was carried out by physically scraping off tiny amounts of metal from the article and then testing it using one of the traditional referee methods: cupellation for gold, potentiometric titration for silver, and ICP/AAS based technique for platinum. X-ray fluorescence (XRF) testing was already being used within the jewellery industry to determine plating thickness, and this was identified as a possible alternative method, more suited to the new demands of the market. Recognising the need to develop more appropriate techniques, the assay offices sought expertise from the XRF manufacturers and worked closely with them to adapt the software driving the XRF technology, and therefore to create equipment to meet their needs. The criteria were that the results must be accurate, repeatable, consistent and userfriendly for their staff. In order to deliver this the XRF unit had to be able to accurately identify 100 per cent of elements of interest. This was successfully delivered, and since the beginning of the 21st century XRF has become the standard recognised for assaying for hallmarking. As well as being conducted without damage to the product, assaying by XRF means that an item can quickly be tested in several places to check that solders and fastenings are compliant with the Hallmarking Act. XRF also has the benefit of being more environmentally friendly than the traditional cupellation method, which requires the use of lead and energy-hungry melting furnaces. To explain the XRF process in simple terms, the machine emits a concentrated beam of X-rays onto a focused spot. The size of this target is adjusted by the operator, who has different sizes to select from, always aiming to choose the largest possible ‘spot size’ where the item has a flat surface to receive the beams evenly. The X-rays penetrate the surface of the material and ‘excite’ the atoms in the alloy. The intensity of the energy that these atoms emit is then analysed and collated automatically to provide a reading as to the percentage of each element in the item. If used and calibrated correctly by an experienced operator, XRF can produce extremely accurate results. Accuracy is maintained by continual calibration against expensive reference standards and subsequent adjustment of the reading. The machines used by samplers at the Birmingham Assay Office are programmed to deliver confirmation that the

article tested complies with a given test standard – for example nine carat yellow gold. The same technology with a stronger electric current and a longer exposure to the beams is used by the Laboratory to identify every element of interest in complicated and unusual alloys. In this case a highly trained technician will use his or her expertise to interpret the results from a graph and challenge every irregularity to ensure nothing has escaped scrutiny. However sophisticated the XRF equipment, it will never deliver a true result for a heavily plated item – rhodium plating on white gold being a classic example that continually raises queries. In these cases some scraping of the plating may be required and operators need to be well aware of the various scenarios which could result in a grossly inaccurate result. At the Assay Office, the sampler may occasionally have to resort to the traditional skills of touch acid testing and the referee methods of cupellation and titration to ensure he or she obtains a realistic result. In recent years smaller, hand held XRF machines have been launched onto the UK market and many jewellers are starting to use these to assess second hand jewellery. These will provide a useful guide to the approximate composition of an article but should always be used with caution, as they are difficult to calibrate, resulting in a wide ‘drift’ of results. Particular care should be taken when assessing items with curved surfaces which do not make equal contact with the ‘window’ of the machine. Such equipment is not yet sufficiently accurate to deserve a place in the strict process necessary for the UK’s negative tolerance hallmarking regime. However, the development of XRF and the software associated with it continues to move on and it certainly has not realised its full potential for the jewellery industry just yet.

Focus on the expert Dippal Manchanda MSc CSci CChem FRSC Dippal Manchanda is the chief assayer and technical director at the Birmingham Assay Office, responsible for maintaining high analytical standards and providing scientific and technical expertise in all divisions of the business. Dippal holds a Masters degree (MSc) in inorganic chemistry and has over 26 years of experience in assaying and the examination of precious metals and alloys. He is also a Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry and has attained the level of membership of ‘Chartered Chemist’. The UK Science Council has awarded him the status of ‘Chartered Scientist’, a recognition awarded to those scientists who demonstrate the application to stay up-todate in their field.

The Birmingham Assay Office was founded in 1773 to provide a hallmarking facility to the rapidly expanding local silver trade. Over 235 years it has become established as the largest UK assay office. During the past decade the Assay Office has expanded its services further, far beyond its statutory assaying and hallmarking duties, and offers independent expert opinion on every aspect of the precious metal, jewellery and gemstone trade. For more information visit

71

your sHop door

If you’re not buyIng gold you’re mIssIng out on easy profIt

use gold buying Centres to help maximise your profits. a range of free p.o.s. material and stationery postage paid delivery on your metals payment by return on-going help and advice 5 southgate street • gloucester gl1 1tg tel: 01452 411249 email: gbc@milesmann.co.uk

Business

Safety first Preventing and dealing with accidents in your store, and therefore avoiding injury claims, is largely down to commonsense, but Russell Jones of Fidler & Pepper Solicitors provides some useful pointers

I

’m often asked to make claims for people who are injured, so as a poacher turned gamekeeper I would hope to give you some insight into the process of injury claims and what you can do to stop claims being made by people who are on your premises, or what to do if you find yourself on the receiving end of a claim. Often the UK has been described as being gripped by a compensation culture, and there is a fear that no matter what you do, people will claim. In fact the statistics don’t bear this out, although it’s fair to say that ‘Joe Public’ now knows more about what he can do and when he can do it than ever before. A lot of what comes next is simple commonsense, and in fact most of the law comes from this ‘commonsense’, having originally been established by courts hearing these types of cases over the last few centuries, although it has been added to at various times by statute to give some guidance to owners and users alike.

What duty do you owe your customers?

Well, you must keep them safe while they are in your premises. That might seem to be a given, but judging by some of the accident claims I have been involved in, you wouldn’t think so. It doesn’t mean you have to give them a personal bodyguard, but equally you don’t want to set mantraps at every corner. In our offices we often ask our staff to give their honest opinion on things, as sometimes familiarity breeds contempt and also allows dangerous practices to go unreported. Can you really afford to turn a blind eye to things you know are wrong, on the basis that an accident hasn’t happened yet and it’s been like that for the last five years so? Well, my advice would be to give your premises an honest health and safety appraisal. • Do those cluttered aisles need tidying up? • Have I left anything on the floor that someone could trip over? • Does that glass shelf really need to be at eye level? • What happens when it’s wet outside? • Does my beautiful marble floor have to be covered with a slide-proof rug or will a ‘wet floor’ sign save me from customers slipping over? • Is the torn and tattered carpet/lino at the door really helping my shop’s image? Let alone allowing anyone trying to do business with me the opportunity to enter without falling head long into the shop?

75

76

Business

Most of us know the answers to these questions already, and you know what’s right and what’s wrong with your premises, and what’s likely to cause accident claims. In these difficult economic times it’s easy to say: “We’ll get it fixed in next year’s budget as we can’t afford to do it now,” however it usually costs far less to fix these simple things than it does to settle a claim by a visitor. Furthermore, the things that cause hazards to visitors are often eyesores anyway, so sorting them out can help your business more directly.

What do you do if an accident happens?

The best thing is to respond to the situation rationally; it really doesn’t help to start arguing with the customer. But you should take notice of what is happening – all accidents must be recorded in your accident book, which may well be dusty and hidden in a dark corner! You don’t need to be Sherlock Holmes, but the time, the date and the customer’s contact details would be good, together with an honest and fair description of the accident. If someone was with the customer ask for their contact details as well, or any witnesses who would share their details. Try to avoid any excuses at this stage. If the carpet really was torn to shreds and should have been replaced then say so. There isn’t any point in saying anything different. Equally, if things were fine then record it like that, and, even better, take a photograph on your mobile phone. While these have been invaluable to claimants I have dealt with, equally you shouldn’t be shy of taking some photos yourself. Don’t tidy things up if it looks a bit messy, however, as untidiness doesn’t necessarily mean that any claim would win against you, but an accusation that you have carried out a spring-clean before taking photos certainly wouldn’t help your case. Call an ambulance if you think one is needed – most people get up hurriedly when they fall over and don’t want to make a fuss, but it is important that they feel looked after as their custom is valuable to you, so if you really think they should go to hospital tell them so and make arrangements if necessary. Statistics really do say that a lot of clients either wanted someone to care or just a simple apology for what happened, despite what you may have read elsewhere. For example, it’s amazing how many of the claims against hospitals I handle are by people who only want an explanation and for someone to say they are sorry; they didn’t get this and the anger and frustration that is generated is often what sends them into the claim process. The health authorities have finally realised this fact and have consequently set up a system for an explanation and apology to be provided before the court claims start. Once everything is sorted and the accident book is completed I would recommend writing a short note of your memory of the occurrence, as it happened, and just slip it inside the book. Hopefully you won’t be having many incidents like this so you won’t need to be writing these every day; five minutes now might save a lot of hassle later if a claim is sought. Use this opportunity to then have another look at your premises. Was it your fault? Could you have done something better? If the answer to either of those questions is ‘yes’, then get something done about it now – after all, maintaining a safe environment and keeping your customers in one piece will make them happy enough to spend with you, and that’s what trading is all about.

Russell Jones is a specialist claims solicitor and senior partner at Fidler & Pepper Solicitors (www.fidler.co.uk). For any help or advice on claims or how to protect your business, you can give him a call on 01623 451 111.

S t a t i s t i c s re a l l y d o say that a lot of clients either wanted s o m e o n e t o c a re o r just a simple apology for what happened, despite what you may h a v e re a d e l s e w h e re

78

Selling

Repairs mean sales Leonard Zell reminds jewellers of the potential for transforming jewellery repair enquiries into valuable sales

H

S i nce you are t a l king about re pairs, don’t miss this o pportunity – remember t o volunteer t o clean any o t h er jewellery t h e customer may have

ow many times have I overheard customers being directed straight to the repair department with their damaged jewellery? Too many times. Do jewellers really know how much in lost sales this costs them? Of course not, otherwise they would stop doing it. Some jewellers pass this off by saying that their colleagues in the repairs department will know when there is potential for a sale, and will find a salesperson to deal with the enquiry. What I want to know is why the judgment is left up to those colleagues, when the salespeople are supposedly trained to know if repairs can be converted into sales? What is even worse is when the salesperson passes off the customer to the repair department, and then doesn’t even bother to go and follow it up. I have written about leaks in jewellers’ stores in previous issues of Jewellery Focus, and brushing customers off to the repair department is one of the biggest leaks. But this leak can be stopped if salespeople are told to take in all repairs when they are not busy selling. However, that solves one problem, but creates another; most salespeople have no idea what to look for to convert repairs into sales. Here are some clues: Worn claws and shanks: Too many salespeople recommend a new shank and claws and think a £300 sale is sufficient. Jewellers have no idea of the diamond sales they are missing. When I point this out to them their excuse is that their customers want their old ring, and so just want it to be fixed. What they neglected to do was to acknowledge the sentiment of the diamond ring, explaining to the customer that there will be very little sentiment remaining because the old shank

and claws must be removed and replaced with new ones. Many customers think all you have to do is add gold, but now their minds are open and once they understand that most of the sentiment is lost they may be willing to look for an alternative option. You can show them how much more brilliant their diamonds will look in a new setting, because more light is allowed to come in through the side of them. Show them one of your diamond rings and how it is set, and have them try it on. Since their financial circumstances may have changed since the old ring was purchased, they may be ready to buy a larger diamond. More repairs: Since you are talking about repairs, don’t miss this opportunity – remember to volunteer to clean any other jewellery the customer may have, and tell him or her that you will check it for any wear, loose diamonds or chipped stones. If this is done consistently there will be a lot of sales generated from that steam machine. Watches: The potential here is enormous, especially for men. When they come in for a new battery, show them watches that are different to theirs, especially those with all the whistles and bells. Think of the millions of smartphones they have bought; the phone companies made it easy for you. Almost all men love toys, and the phone companies have put your customers in the mood to look at your imagination-capturing watches. Are you in the mood to sell them? Keep an eye on the repair department: You must be prepared to go back to the repair department and wait on the customers who went directly there. The potential for creating new sales is enormous, and why miss out on diamond sales?

You will see how to create sales from repairs explained in further detail in Leonard’s 180-page sales manual on proven jewellery selling techniques. And for the perfect complement, order – a full day’s sales training seminar recorded live on three CDs. Order at Leonard Zell has been training fine jewellers around the world for 25 years. He will be conducting sales seminars in the UK this autumn. To find more about his sales training seminars go to his website, , email him at , or call him in the US on 001 503 412 9521 after 4pm UK time.

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Industry Data

Prices • Figures • Outlook Retail sales volume: June 2011 When compared to the previous month, June saw the value of retail sales increase by 0.3 per cent and the volume by 0.7 per cent. Year-on-year the value of sales rose four per cent and the volume 0.4 per cent. Between June 2010 and June 2011, the main downward pressure on sales came from the predominantly food store sector, which decreased by 4.2 per cent; the largest fall since records began in 1988. Upward pressure came from predominantly non-food stores, which rose by 0.9 per cent, and motor fuel, which rose by 3.1 per cent. However, the greatest upward pressure came from non-store retailing, which posted a staggering rise of a record 24.4 per cent. Approximately £32.1 billion was spent on retail goods during June 2011, up by £1.2 billion from the same period a year ago. 

Source: ONS

Metal prices

Jun 11

Jul 11

Aug 11

Change

Sterling silver (£/Kg)

670.20

654.11

722.02

Plus 10%

Gold (£/g)

30.22

30.35

33.16

Plus 9%

Palladium (£/g)

15.56

15.42

15.29

Minus 1%

Platinum (£/g)

35.79

34.70

34.60

No Change

Rhodium (£/g)

42.74

40.22

37.94

Minus 6%

Iridium (£/g)

20.69

21.11

20.76

Minus 2%

Ruthenium (£/g)

3.55

3.62

3.50

Minus 3%

Scrap metal prices

Jun 11

Jul 11

Aug 11

Change

Sterling silver scrap (£/kg)

629.26

614.15

677.92

Plus 10%

9ct Gold scrap (£/g)

10.93

10.98

12.00

Plus 9%

14ct Gold scrap (£/g)

17.06

17.13

18.72

Plus 9%

18ct Gold scrap (£/g)

21.87

21.97

24.00

Plus 9%

22ct Gold scrap (£/g)

26.71

26.83

29.31

Plus 9%

Platinum (95%) scrap (£/g)

28.90

28.02

27.94

No Change

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put

Diamond prices

Jun

Aug

2010

Oct

Dec

Feb

Seasonally adjusted figures

2011

Apr

Jun

Weight

G/VVS

G/SI

J/VVS

J/SI

J/I1

0.05 Carat

1,706

938

1,177

853

751

0.10 Carat

1,638

1,045

1,579

936

702

0.25 Carat

2,647

1,462

2,212

1,243

848

0.50 Carat

7,421

3,393

4,594

2,969

2,544

0.75 Carat

8,940

5,596

5,801

4,095

3,276

1.00 Carat

15,793

8,423

10,611

6,844

4,475

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond prices for additional accuracy. Compiled at 8th August 2011 / Dollar Exchange Rate 1.6412

Industry Data

Hallmark figures July 10

July 11

Variance

%

111.2

Silver 999

537

1,134

597

958

1,349

386

-963

-71.4

925

707,903

485,952

-221,951

-31.4

800

85

30

-55

-64.7

709,874

487,502

-222,372

-31.3

999

20

51

31

155.0

990

14

0

-14

-100.0

Gold

916

28,583

30,742

2,159

7.6

750

91,662

81,938

-9,724

-10.6 -62.9

585

24,224

8,995

-15,229

375

291,714

255,158

-36,556

-12.5

436,217

376,884

-59,333

-13.6 -50.0

Platinum 999

10

5

-5

950

21,950

21,820

-130

-0.6

900

8

14

6

75.0

850 Palladium 999

Total

3

2

-1

-33.3

21,971

21,841

-130

-0.6 -100.0

3

0

-3

950

9,317

8,747

-570

-6.1

500

1,041

1,041

100.0

9,320

9,788

468

5.0

1,177,382

896,015

-281,367

-23.9

The July hallmarking statistics show a similar pattern to the previous month, with the total number of units hallmarked down 23.9 per cent compared to July 2010 – a total of 896,015 units were hallmarked across the four UK assay offices, compared with 1,177,382 in July 2010. Total gold items hallmarked were down 13.6 per cent, while the total number of silver articles hallmarked was 487,502 compared to 709,874 last year, a drop of 31 per cent. This is not surprising given that the average price of silver during the month reached £23.50 per troy oz, compared with an average of £11.75 per troy oz in July 2010. Platinum was flat while palladium showed a small growth of five per cent.

81

Events and auctions Image: MIDORA Leipzig

82

Events

26 – 30 August Tendence Messe Frankfurt Frankfurt, Germany

tendence.messefrankfurt.com

28 – 30 August JAA International Jewellery Fair Sydney Exhibition Centre Darling Harbour Sydney, Australia www.internationaljewelleryfair.com.au

1 – 3 September Japan Jewellery Fair Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com

2 – 4 September Times Glamour Vivanta by Taj President South Bombay, India www.timesglamour.com

2 – 5 September Eclat de Mode Paris Porte de Versailles Paris, France www.bijorhca.com

3 – 5 September MIDORA Leipzig Leipzig Exhibition Centre Leipsic, Germany www.midora.de

4 – 7 September Autumn Fair International NEC, Birmingham www.autumnfair.com 4 – 7 September International Jewellery London Earls Court 2, London www.jewellerylondon.com

10 – 14 September VICENZAORO Choice Fiera di Vicenza Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzafiera.it

17 – 21 September Junwex Moscow All-Russian Exhibition Centre Moscow, Russia www.eng.rjexpert.ru

18 – 19 September Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn The SECC Glasgow www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

19 – 23 & 21 – 25 September September Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair AsiaWorld-Expo & Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre Hong Kong www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html

20 – 23 September Costume Jewellery and Accessories Salon Manezh Exhibition Complex Moscow Russia

www.gifts-expo.com/eng/salons/3.html

21 – 25 September Portojóia Porto International Fair Oporto, Portugal www.portojoia.exponor.pt

30 September – 3 October INTERGEM Messe Idar-Oberstein Idar-Oberstein Germany www.intergem-messe.de

6 – 9 October Liverpool Design Festival St George’s Hall, Liverpool www.liverpooldesignfestival.com

Auction dates

6 September Campbells Jewellery, silver, clocks and watches Worthing, West Sussex www.campbellsauctions.co.uk

13 September Bonhams Jewellery Oxford

www.bonhams.com

7 September Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge, London

20 September Capes Dunn Antique jewellery, silver, watches, wares and coins Manchester

8 September Bonhams Jewellery and silver Edinburgh

21 September Bonhams Fine jewellery New Bond Street, London

9 September Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and clocks Chertsey Surrey

23 September Wellers Auctioneers Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery Chertsey Surrey

10 September Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent

24 September Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent

www.bonhams.com

www.bonhams.com

www.wellersauctions.com

www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

www.capesdunn.com

www.bonhams.com

www.wellersauctions.com

www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

4 October Dreweatts 1759 Jewellery, silver, watches and coins Bristol www.dnfa.com

7 October Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery, watches, silver and clocks Chertsey, Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

8 October Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone, Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

18 October Campbells Jewellery, silver, clocks and watches Worthing, West Sussex www.campbellsauctions.co.uk

22 October Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Antiques and fine arts, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone, Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

7 – 10 October Malaysia Jewellery Festival Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre Kuala Lumpur, Malaya www.mij.com.my/MJF

8 – 10 October ZAK Jewels Expo Vivanta by Taj Connemara Madras, India www.zakjewelsexpo.com

15 – 18 October Jewelers International Showcase Miami Beach Convention Center Miami, Florida, United States www.jisshow.com

29 – 31 October Jewelers International Showcase Caesars Palace, Las Vegas, Nevada, United States www.jisshow.com

28 October Wellers Auctioneers Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery Chertsey Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

3 November Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge, London www.bonhams.com

4 November Bonhams Jewellery Oxford

www.bonhams.com

5 November Bonhams Jewellery Knightsbridge London

www.bonhams.com

5 November Kent Auction Galleries Ltd Victorian and later effects, including jewellery, silver and coins Folkestone Kent www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk

10 – 13 November Dubai International Jewellery Week Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre Dubai, United Arab Emirates www.jewelleryshow.com

18 – 20 November Desire Jewellery and Silversmithing Fair Guildhall Winchester, Winchester www.desirefair.com

2 – 5 December China International Gold, Jewellery and Gem Fair Shanghai World Expo Theme Pavilion, Shanghai, China

www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html

3 – 11 December VICENZANTIQUARIA Fiera di Vicenza Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzafiera.it

8 November Bonhams Jewellery Oxford

www.bonhams.com

11 November Jacobs & Hunt Silver and jewellery Petersfield, Hampshire www.jacobsandhunt.com

11 November Wellers Auctioneers Jewellery and watches Chertsey, Surrey www.wellersauctions.com

22 November A F Brock & Company Limited Jewellery, watches and silverware Hazel Grove, Stockport, Cheshire www.afbrock.co.uk

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BEADS

Totally Wholesale Burhouse Beads is the UK’s largest wholesale supplier of gemstones, jewellery findings and components. Specialising in fresh water pearls and high quality bead strings. We also offer a full range of associated hardware and tools.

Visit: www.burhousebeads.co.uk Burhouse Beads, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes, Huddersfield West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP Tel: +44 (0)1484 485100 Fax: 44 (0)1484 462696 Email: sales@burhousebeads.com

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Directory

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O & C.,

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CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

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Your Views

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Karim Merchant of Identity the Jewellers, Derby Could you explain a bit about the history of Identity?

We are a new enterprise that opened in the Westfield Centre in Derby on the 9 October 2007. The main aim of Identity is to sell quality jewellery and gifts not currently available in Derby. We mainly target the male audience and have a very wide, diverse range of men’s jewellery. However, since opening we have expanded and now also offer a large choice of women’s jewellery. Identity the Jewellers has developed from many years of research and experience. Sterling silver is our preferred material, but we also offer steel, tungsten, titanium, 18 carat gold and meteorite.

Why did you choose to specialise in men’s jewellery?

We wanted to have a unique selling point that would set us apart from other retail jewellers. When we researched stores around us, we saw there was not a wide range of men’s jewellery available to customers, despite a large variety at jewellery shows. This made the decision a little easier as to who the target audience would be for Identity the Jewellers.

How did the Identity team members come to be involved in the jewellery trade?

One of the directors, Andrew Warner, has a BA in Jewellery & Silversmithing and is skilled in creating individuallydesigned jewellery. Fellow directors were accountants specialising in small business.

highstreet Is Derby a good place to do business? What do you enjoy about trading in the town?

Since the opening of the Westfield Centre it has become very busy, with a footfall of 500,000 people a week. We seem to attract, as a business, a wide variety of ethnic groups and we take pride in getting to know different people from different backgrounds.

What’s selling well at the moment?

Cœur de Lion, Story, Unique, Trollbeads, Storywheels and Festina.

You have an extensive online store – is this an essential part of being a 21st century jeweller?

Very, especially when you are an independent retailer with only one shop, as you want to be able to reach as many potential customers as possible. As we speak, we are completely re-designing our website to create a more interactive environment and set themes in place that give the customer a feel of actually being in the store.

What advice would you give to someone hoping to open their own jewellery business?

Be 100 per cent committed and passionate towards it. Always try to look for a unique selling point that no other jeweller can offer. Customer service is paramount, so try to offer that extra personal touch that chains cannot.

Finally, what are Identity’s plans for the future?

We are planning to expand and offer the customers of Westfield Derby something new that Derby as a whole doesn’t currently offer. All I can say is, keep a look out for us in the near future!


Jewellery Focus September11