8FFLFOE
KATIE BRIGHAM
The sformato di gamberi is a flan of shrimp, asparagus and mascarpone cheese sauced with a shellfish bisque.
cheese, a soft cow’s cheese from northeast Italy, was ambrosial. The ragu was meaty-lush and thick, the gnocchetti the size of miniature marshmallows and just as soft. Mouthwatering dish. The pleasantly aromatic agnello scottadito ($28) was a rack of grass-fed Australian lamb with mushrooms and roasted potatoes. The four long-ribbed bones were plump with juicy meat despite their long voyage. The grilled Mediterranean branzino filet ($26), skewered and enveloped in artichoke hearts, was served with a cake
of sauteed farro and vegetables. The fish was fresh and the slightly bitter artichokes coaxed out subtle flavors of the sea bass. One visit I reserved just for the pizza. With house-made dough, the Figo pizza ($19) was topped with aged Parma prosciutto, house-made burrata mozzarella and wild arugula. When the pizza was delivered, I drooled. Sadly, it was barely warm and cold by the time I got to the second slice. At that hour, there was only a handful of other diners: no reason for cold pizza. As for desserts, I loved Figo’s
take on tiramisu ($8). It was more pudding-like than the traditional cake and was served in a bowl instead of on a plate. Even so, all the ingredients were in evidence with a bit of added whimsy: a long ladyfinger impaled in the cake. Not so successful was the pistachio panna cotta ($8). Panna cotta should be amongst the lightest of desserts. This version could have been cut with a knife and fork. It was dense, rubbery and unappealing. For libations, Figo boasts a full bar with specialty cocktails. On the wine side, labels are split between the West Coast and Italy except for one inexplicable Argentine label. Prices are under control with bottles starting at $34. More than two dozen wines are available by the glass. I am not sure where the disconnect is at Figo. The kitchen is more than capable, the waitstaff sincere and friendly, the ambi-
ance pleasing. It could be a lack of staff communication, lack of training, lack of restaurant instincts. Diners shouldn’t find experiences flawed on multiple
visits. Figo could be one of the best places to dine downtown, but until they tighten up their service, it is just another place to eat on University Avenue. V
N DININGNOTES
Figo 326 University Ave., Palo Alto 650-321-4075 figopaloalto.com
Reservations
Lunch: Weekdays 11:30 a.m.2:30 p.m. Dinner: Mon.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m.; Fri. 5-11 p.m. Also open Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. and Sun. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Takeout
Credit Cards Alcohol Highchairs Wheelchair Access Banquet Catering Outdoor Seating Noise Level moderate Bathroom Cleanliness Parking
good lots
PENINSULA
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AMERICAN
CHINESE
Armadillo Willy’s
Chef Chu’s
941-2922 1031 N. San Antonio Road, Los Altos www.armadillowillys.com
948-2696 1067 N. San Antonio Road www.chefchu.com
The Old Pro
Ming’s
326-1446 541 Ramona Street, Palo Alto www.oldpropa.com
856-7700 1700 Embarcadero East, Palo Alto www.mings.com
STEAKHOUSE
New Tung Kee Noodle House
Sundance the Steakhouse
947-8888 520 Showers Drive, Mountain View www.shopmountainview.com/luunoodlemv
321-6798 1921 El Camino Real, Palo Alto www.sundancethesteakhouse.com
INDIAN
Janta Indian Restaurant Read and post reviews, explore restaurant menus, get hours and directions and more at ShopPaloAlto, ShopMenloPark and ShopMountainView
462-5903 369 Lytton Ave. www.jantaindianrestaurant.com
Thaiphoon 323-7700 543 Emerson Ave, Palo Alto www.ThaiphoonRestaurant.com
www.danceacademyusa.com
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May 17, 2013 â– Mountain View Voice â– MountainViewOnline.com â–
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