8FFLFOE MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE
â– RESTAURANT REVIEW â– MOVIE TIMES â– BEST BETS FOR ENTERTAINMENT
N R E S TA U R A N T R E V I E W
Plenty of polish THE NEW GRAVITY WINE BAR AND BISTRO IMPRESSES WITH FINE FOOD AND A SLEEK INTERIOR By Dale F. Bentson
G
ravity, the new wine bar and bistro on Emerson Street in Palo Alto, is impressive for many reasons. The interior is sleek and refined, the service knowledgeable and friendly, and the food both arresting and exceptionally well-prepared. Gravity also has a prime spot just a halfblock off University Avenue. It’s the site of longtime restaurant fixture Maddalena and the subsequent, quickly departed Melt Ultra Lounge. Rob Fischer, owner of the Palo Alto Creamery, Reposado and others, opened Gravity in mid-December. “I’ve always wanted to do a wine bar that served really good food, not just charcuterie and cheese plates,� he said. “It’s just as much about good beer as good
wine. The food menu isn’t long but it’s all high quality,� he added. “We’ve got a hot chef.� Andy Phillips, formerly sous-chef at the Restaurant at Wente Vineyards in Livermore, is the exceptional talent in the kitchen. Gravity’s chic downstairs interior has hardwood floors, bar-high tables and chairs of wood and aluminum. Too-dim pendant lamps and small print make reading the menu difficult. Upstairs is the same motif, but more spacious, with lower tables and chairs, and exquisite windows in the front overlooking Emerson Street. It’s sophisticated and inviting. At each dinner, we were presented with an amuse-bouche from the chef while squinting at the menu. On two visits, it was a morsel of the eggplant caponata; another time it was slices of sopressata salami. Each amusebouche was accompanied by a taste of still or
VERONICA WEBER
Gravity’s vanilla panna cotta is sweet and feather-light.
bubbly wine. Steak tartare with quail egg ($10) was coarsely ground, perfectly seasoned raw beef. The tiny quail egg atop served to bind the meat and added a richness to the tasty appetizer. Another fine starter was pate de
Dining Town on
AMERICAN CLARKE’S CHARCOAL BROILER
615 W. El Camino Real Mtn. View 650/967-0851
Voted Best Hamburger 16 Yrs in a Row. Beautiful Outside Patio Dining.
Champagne ($10): two generous slices of coarse ground pork pate. It had just-made lush flavors and came with cornichons, grainy mustard and toast points. No better See GRAVITY, page 14
the
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1405 W. El Camino Real Mtn. View 650/964-3321 Casual and cozy French restaurant. 15 tables.
Spices for Health PIZZA KAPP'S PIZZA BAR & GRILL 191 Castro Street Mtn. View 650/961-1491
Happy Hours Mon-Fri 4pm-6pm.
"2010 Best Chinese" MV Voice & PA Weekly
Because Natural Is Better!
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47444 Kato Road, Fremont 4OLL s 0HONE s &AX www.herbspicetea.com MARCH 18, 2011 â– MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE â–
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