WWB MAGAZINE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER ISSUE 250

WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015 ISSUE 250/ £6.95

BEST OF BRITISH THE BIG ISSUE WWB examines the growing demand for plus-size fashion and selects the best labels around AGENCY FOCUS The changing role of a fashion agent in today’s marketplace FAST FORWARD The best short-order collections to get in-store now

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CURVE APPEAL Plus-size brands under the spotlight

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BEST OF BRITISH WWB catches up with some of the key players in British fashion

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SPECIAL AGENTS The changing face of the agency landscape

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SHORT CUTS In-season labels to get in-store now

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60 YEARS OF SUCCESS Renes Lapelle celebrates it’s 60th year

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SCOOP LONDON Review of the show’s first edition last month

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PROJECT RUNWAY The key looks from the s/s 16 runways at London Fashion Week

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EDITOR’S COMMENT

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NEWS

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BACKSTAGE

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RETAIL FORUM

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E-TAIL CLINIC Expert e-commerce advice

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With Fiona Marston, creative director, Parka London

The other side of womenswear

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THE LAST WORD

TALKING POINT Your views on the issues shaping the industry

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INTERVIEW With Simon Cotton, CEO of Johnstons of Elgin

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STYLE FILE The latest directional product news

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RAINY DAY FASHION The best autumn coats to get in-store now

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FASHION RADAR WWB’s brand to watch

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THE PERFECT FIT How JQ Jeans has remained at the top of denim innovations for almost four decades

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REPORT: Increasing conversions with video marketing

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BIG BUSINESS The growing demand for plus-size fashion

FRONT COVER: BELLA FREUD

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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com

Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths

Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2015 WWB Magazine Limited.

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Britain is renowned the world over for its design, craftsmanship and that certain “je ne sais quoi” that makes British brands quintessentially British.

And it’s not just brands such as Burberry & Co that are leading the way on the world design stage.

Quite the opposite in fact; there is a vast amount of great British brands and designers across mainstream, contemporary and young fashion, too, who fly the flag for their country and experience huge commercial success globally.

So, with that in mind, we have dedicated this issue to all things British, bringing you a fine selection of some of the best Britain has to offer.

And it’s evident that as an industry we have much reason to celebrate – the creativity, resourcefulness, skills, expertise, quality and originality that they all have in common. We have compiled an overview of some of Britain’s most loved brands, some with a history that dates back several centuries, and the elements that constitute their continued success. And, although not all of the brands are able to manufacture in the UK – though rightly this is a growing focus – they share a certain design ethos and values which are intrinsically British. As part of the feature, we quizzed the people behind the brands about what it means to them to be a British label, and it’s fair to say it makes for very interesting reading indeed.

Elsewhere, we have caught up with a number of key UK agents who share how their role and the agency landscape in general is changing, and catch

up with two other British brands, JQ Jeans and Johnstons of Elgin, on their plans for future growth.

Staying with the British theme, we also bring you all the latest looks from the catwalks at London Fashion Week, which debuted its new central London venue last month, as well as the most recent successful addition to the seasonal show calendar, Scoop London, which took place concurrently. The show, from the organisers behind much-loved designer fair Scoop, certainly added to the appeal and draw of the capital among fashion professionals, and its unique mix of accessories, footwear, ready-to-wear, jewellery and lifestyle products from exclusive international and British designers attracted a host of high-profile buyers to the Saatchi Gallery – another British success story, for sure.

This can also be said for two more very British flagship brands, who have bucked the general downward trend in trading with record growth: Ted Baker and Joules. Ted Baker, for one, has never been tempted to go down the sales and discount route, and has been rewarded with strong global sales. Joules, meanwhile, successfully implements its multi-channel strategy while remaining focused on what makes it unique – quirky, practical design, affordable prices and aspirational character. Both brands are doing their own thing, and their sustained growth speaks volumes about the importance of staying true to your values, signature and business strategy.

WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company

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MODA TO LAUNCH NEW FORMAT AT FEBRUARY EDITION Revised layout, fresh features and the introduction of new areas will further enhance visitor experience at the Birmingham show.

Birmingham trade show Moda is to unveil a new format for its February 2016 edition, including a revised layout and the launch of a number of new product zones.

The show, which takes place on 21-23 of February at the NEC, will introduce new locations for each of the five Moda sectors, including Moda Woman, Moda Gent, Moda Accessories, Moda Footwear and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, which will facilitate easier and more targeted navigation throughout the show.

A new unisex area, Unisex Lifestyle, located between Moda Woman and Moda Gent, is set to be launched in response to the growing demand for lifestyle labels offering both womenswear and menswear, as well as Outdoor Lifestyle, a dedicated area featuring clothing labels that cater for the field, coast and active lifestyle.

The changes are further enhanced by the launch of Moda Loves, a dedicated platform for directional fashion, and Boutique, a new space in Moda Footwear for trend-led women’s footwear designs.

Accessories will also be presented in a more curated setting alongside their relevant clothing adjacencies, with millinery presented next to Moda’s evening and occasionwear section Moda Noir, contemporary accessories alongside Moda White, and stock and fast-fashion add-ons alongside in-season labels.

Furthermore, Moda Lingerie & Swimwear will also see a re-edited footprint, with a dedicated entrance and a more

intimate, boutique feel to the show.

Catwalks and seminars remain key to Moda’s event line-up and will also be boosted by a new theatre-style presentation.

“As well as benefitting from being part of a larger event, each of the Moda shows also has its own individual requirements, something which as organisers we review every season,” says Nick Cook, portfolio director of show organiser ITE Moda.

“The changes we’re making for next year allow us to take full account of the requirements of each of the industries we represent, and to introduce new features which exhibitors and buyers have been asking us for.

“Demand from exhibitors wanting to show both men’s and women’s collections on the same stand has been growing for several seasons, and this is something which Moda can now take account of,” he adds. “This new area allows us to both address demand from existing exhibitors and to bring in new names who want to showcase the full range in one location. It will also make the show easier to navigate for stores stocking both womenswear and menswear, and highlight how much great product we have at the show.”

New signings to the next edition include the likes of Ness, Harley of Scotland, Baleno and Lighthouse, joining returning brands such as Eva Tralala, Deck, James Lakeland, Christina Felix, Bianca, Gardeur, Marble and Lily & Me. For more information and up-to-date visitor and exhibitor details visit www.moda-uk.co.uk

FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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NEWS IN BRIEF

STRONG GROWTH FOR GODSKE PLUS SIZE

LOVE BRANDS LAUNCHES MIGHTY PURSE

Danish fashion house Godske, which owns 12 independent clothing brands, has experienced strong growth of its dedicated plus-size brands Q’Neel, Que and That’s Me, following increased consumer demand for fashionable and flattering plus-size clothing.

Available from sizes 10 to 30, Q’Neel is targeted at the fashion-conscious woman, offering versatile daywear with a focus on fit and bodyenhancing silhouettes. Que offers bohemian inspired fashion with an individual design available from sizes 10 to 28, while That’s Me (pictured) is based around casual soft wool and jersey styles reflecting current trends, in sizes 8 to 30. The company has not just increased sales of its dedicated plus-size brands, but thanks to availability up to a size 20, all of the company’s regular brands have also seen a significant rise in sales, with plus size remaining a key focus for future expansion.

Fashion agency Love brands has been appointed UK and Ireland distributor for smartphone charging accessory range The Mighty Purse. The brand offers a fusion between fashion and technology, combining a range of trend-led accessories with a lightweight battery that can fully recharge any smart device and can itself be recharged via any USB port.

Mighty Purse uses an Apple Licensed Adapter for iPhones while also being compatible with all micro-USB smartphones, including Samsung TM, HTC, Blackberry, LG & Android. The range includes wallets, wristlets, backpacks, clutches and bag styles with detachable straps, and is available in leather or vegan leather. Wholesale prices range from £28 to £38, with a 2.5 mark-up.

The minimum order is 12 bags, with Love Brands targeting fashion independents in addition to already secured stockists including House of Fraser and the Next website.

GELCO TO CEASE TRADING German womenswear brand Gelco is to close its business next year, following completion of s/s 16 orders. The company, which has been owned by the Dreier family since 1955 and is one of the key brands in mainstream womenswear, will be shutting down both its wholesale as well as retail operations following years of declining sales.

It is understood that Gelco’s management had been trying to secure an external investor but had been unsuccessful in attracting suitable candidates. Joachim Dreier, managing director of the brand, says that the continued decline in the mid-market fashion sector, an increased focus on large global players, reduced consumer spend, the competition from e-commerce platforms as well as the economic crisis in Southern and Eastern Europe were to blame for the company’s demise.

“It is with huge regret that we have to face the realities of a negative market development in the textile industry. We would like to thank all our long-standing members of staff as well as trade partners for their continued support,” says Dreier.

Gelco has assured its customers that all orders for s/s 16 will be fully delivered.

BUSINESSES UNAWARE OF MINIMUM WAGE FINE Over 80 per cent of employers across all sectors are unaware of the fines they face for not paying eligible employees at least the National Minimum Wage (NMW). It is estimated there are nearly 1.5 million workers in the UK aged over 21 being paid on or below the NMW in 2014, according to an ONS Annual Survey of Hours and Earnings. This includes 10,000 workers in the textiles industry. The penalty for not paying your employees at least the NMW includes a fine of up to £20,000 per worker and your business could be publicly named.

NEW CHELTENHAM STORE FOR JOHN LEWIS John Lewis is to open a new department store in Cheltenham in 2017. With a combined investment of over £30m from John Lewis, BlackRock and Cheltenham Borough Council, the proposal will see the Beechwood shopping centre in Cheltenham transformed into a John Lewis department store. Creating up to 250 jobs, and offering more than 115,000 sq ft of selling space across two floors, the shop will showcase fashion, home and consumer electronics concepts in a contemporary setting.

BIRA NATIONAL CONFERENCE AND AWARDS 2016 The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) will hold its annual National Conference and Awards Dinner at the Chateau Impney in Droitwich Spa, Worcestershire, on 11 May 2016. Catering for independent retailers and suppliers who serve the independent trade, the event will include high-calibre speakers, who will explore current trends for creating a sustainable future for retail businesses.

More information on the event will be released in due course on www.bira. co.uk.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

TED BAKER TO DOUBLE RETAIL OPERATIONS

SUCCESSFUL LAUNCH FOR SCOOP LONDON

British high-street retailer Ted Baker is set to double its existing store portfolio from 416 to 832, thanks to another set of impressive trading figures.

Chief executive and founder Ray Kelvin says the company will focus on North American markets including Canada and Mexico. Currently, the brand sees 40 per cent of net income from international markets.

Kelvin stated good growth in Canada would see the company open two further stores, alongside making its debut in Mexico with six instore concessions with the Liverpool and Plateo department-store groups after a successful trial in two outlets.

Ted Baker, however, had found conditions in China and Hong Kong challenging due to the economic slowdown. Retailing in Hong Kong remains tough for brands, as people from the mainland have been granted visas to come and shop only once a week.

The first edition of Scoop London, which took place at the end of September, was well received by exhibitors and visitors alike.

The show attracted a diversity of high-profile UK and overseas buyers, including Anna’s Shoes, Be Concept Store, Biffi and Banner, Bernards, Brown Thomas, Choice, Colette, Fenwick Group, Galleries La Fayette, L’Eclaireur and Net-A-Porter.

Visitors praised the careful curation of brands, with a strong mix of exclusive readyto-wear, accessories, footwear and lifestyle products.

“I am delighted with the first edition of Scoop London, in particular the strength and quality of both UK and overseas buyers,” says Karen Radley, managing director of the show.

“Ninety-five per cent of exhibitors were new to the show, and there was only a minimal crossover with Scoop in August, with most of these brands having showed their pre-collections at the August editions and their main lines at this time.”

ASOS APPOINTS NEW CEO Asos founder Nick Robertson has stepped down from his role as CEO and has been succeeded by Nick Beighton, who stepped up to head the e-tail giant. Robertson has remained with the company as nonexecutive director.

Beighton joined Asos in 2009 as chief financial officer and has since worked closely with Robertson on the expansion of the company. In October last year, Beighton was appointed chief operating officer, widening his management responsibilities beyond finance.

Meanwhile, Helen Ashton has been appointed to the role of CFO. “On behalf of everyone who works at Asos, I’d like to acknowledge Nick Robertson’s extraordinary achievement,” says Brian McBride, chairman of Asos. “His passion and vision have built a start-up into a world-class company.

We are all delighted that Nick will continue to contribute to the company that he started. We are fortunate to have such an able successor for the CEO role,” he continues. “Nick has unique experience of the company built over six years, equipping him to drive Asos along its growth trajectory to become the world’s leading online fashion retailer for 20-somethings.”

ANNA SCHOLZ PULLS WHOLESALE Plus-size designer brand Anna Scholz is discontinuing its wholesale operation from s/s 16 in order to focus solely on the development of its own e-commerce site, www.annascholz.com. The brand has introduced lower entry price points in some categories, helping reach a younger clientele, with customers now spanning a wide age range from 25 to 80. According to Scholz, the “silver surfer”, however, will also become a stronger focus for the brand.

PRINCE’S TRUST HOSTS FASHION DINNER The Prince’s Trust in Yorkshire and the Humber’s sixth annual Fashion Dinner invited guests to the National Railway Museum in York for an evening of fundraising earlier this month. The Fashion Dinner is one of the region’s most successful fundraisers. This year, the event was once again hailed a success, raising more than £90,000 for the charity.

RURAL BUSINESS AWARDS CELEBRATES BRITISH TEXTILES The Rural Business Awards – the first dedicated UK-wide business awards for the rural community – saw success awarded to a number of British brands at the event last week, such as Devon label Lily Warne Wool, which was named Best Rural Start-up and overall Champion of Champions. The brand is owned by mother-and-son team Paula and Lewis Steer. Through producing wool from its own flock of Greyface Dartmoor sheep, the brand has grown and is now stocked in John Lewis.

MODA IN PELLE CONTINUES EXPANSION British footwear brand Moda in Pelle has opened a new concession in House of Fraser on Oxford Street as part of its ambitious expansion plans under the direction of CEO David Inglis. The Oxford Street concession launched last month, and was accompanied by further openings in House of Fraser Edinburgh and Cardiff.

W H E R E FAS H I O N CO M E S TO G E T H E R

2 1 - 2 3 Fe b r u a r y 2 0 1 6 NEC Birmingham To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069 Find out more and register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

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NEWS IN BRIEF

NOA NOA LONDON FLAGSHIP RELOCATES

THE HUB SEES SUCCESS IN SHANGHAI

Danish fashion brand Noa Noa has moved its only London standalone store to a new location on 308 King’s Road. The upsized, 1,000 sq ft store features the brand’s full womenswear range, as well as baby and childrenswear. A wholesale showroom will be located on the basement level of the shop.

Noa Noa has eight stores within the UK and is sold in more than 180 concept stores worldwide.

Founded in 1981 by brothers Harold and Lars Holstein, the brand has expanded to multiple locations across Europe and also has stores in the Faroe Islands and the United Arab Emirates.

“We chose to launch this larger store on the King’s Road because Chelsea is a fantastic location with a vibrant atmosphere,” says Derek Cornelius, part owner and director at Noa Noa. “We believe the exquisite style, designs and fabrics used by Noa Noa are perfect for the fashionable, discerning and international consumers who shop and live in the close vicinity.”

The Hub, Asia’s leading trade show for international fashion brands and designers, marked its successful first edition at its new location Shanghai in October. After four seasons in Hong Kong, the show took place alongside Shanghai Fashion Week in the city centre at Xintiandi and welcomed a host of national and international visitors.

The event has achieved a reputation for helping brands find franchise, distribution and licensing partners for the Chinese market, as well as facilitating wholesale business with independent retailers. “Coming to Shanghai puts us at the centre of the most exciting market in the world exactly when consumers here are focusing more on independent labels and multi-brand retail,” says Richard Hobbs, co-founder of The Hub. “Retailers and mall operators know their target audiences want new experiences and more unique products and the brands showing at Hub bring that.”

JOULES SEES RECORD PERFORMANCE This year sees British lifestyle label Joules mark its 25th anniversary with a record performance, as revenue increased 22 per cent to £117.1m. Retail sales from stores and e-commerce continued to grow by 24 per cent during the year, with retail growth fuelled by 13 new store openings during the period.

The brand is due to open its landmark 100th store before Christmas.

Direct retail sales, which comprise e-commerce and catalogue, represented more than 34 per cent of total retail sales. This sustained growth is supported by the continuous development of Joules’ e-commerce capabilities, with click and collect launched in 2014. The website itself, Joules.com, was also relaunched last month, delivering enhanced functionality, product displays and usability.

Wholesale, overall, grew by 17.9 per cent, with continued expansion in the UK driven through national multi-channel retailers such as John Lewis and Next Labels, as well as smaller, independent specialist partners. A key pillar of the Joules growth strategy is satisfying international demand for the label, particularly in the USA. International sales increased by 65 per cent during the period against strong growth of 44 per cent in the previous year. Joules also delivered growth across the core womenswear, menswear and childrenswear categories, as well as further development of both homeware and eyewear, which was launched in late 2014 in partnership with Mondottica.

REPLAY FOOTWEAR LAUNCHES DESIGN CONTEST Replay Footwear, the shoe line extension of denim giant Replay, has launched a shoe design competition, with the objective of creating an innovative 24hour shoe for both men and women.

The brand is looking for a design that encompasses its DNA, with the winner receiving ¤3,000. The voting for the winning design will be opened to the public, with Facebook and Instagram followers selecting their favourite designs, ending in November.

SPIEWAK LAUNCHES E-COMMERCE ARM American label Spiewak has announced the launch of an e-commerce arm on its website platform, Spiewak1904.com.

This marks the first time that the entire collection will be available in one place since the brand launched over 110 years ago. Acting as the first “flagship” for the label, additional bricks-and-mortar locations are also planned to open globally throughout 2016.

BY MALENE BIRGER LAUNCHES NEW STORE CONCEPT Danish womenswear brand By Malene Birger has opened the doors to its newly renovated flagship on London’s Marylebone High Street. The store is designed in collaboration with Milanbased Dimore Studio and has undergone a revamp in line with the brand’s visual concept and expansion strategy.

PERFORMANCE BRAND LAUNCHES IN LONDON Canadian outdoor performance apparel and equipment brand Arc’teryx has opened the doors to its first European flagship store at 212 Piccadilly in London. The new store marks the start of a programme of expansion, which will see the brand opening a limited number of flagship stores in key international cities this year. The 4,000 sq ft store on Piccadilly in London St James’ is set over two floors and stocks the brand’s range of performance clothing, snow sports apparel and footwear, as well as harnesses and packs.

TWO SCOOPS PER SEASON JANUARY & FEBRUARY SCOOP

31 JANUARY - 2 FEBRUARY 2016

SCOOP LONDON 21-23 FEBRUARY 2016

SAATCHI GALLERY, LONDON SCOOP-INTERNATIONAL.COM

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Backstage

The events, campaigns and parties not to miss 01/ CARNABY STREAMS LFW Carnaby celebrated London Fashion Week and its new hub on Brewer Street in style last month, streaming exclusive footage of some of the coolest catwalk shows from the likes of Sibling, Peter Pilotto, Marques Almeida and Gareth Pugh on a giant screen in the middle of the shopping street. The event was supported by in-store events, promotions, music and more across the five days, featuring shops, bars and restaurants in the 13-street district.

02/ SUCCESS FOR UK PLUS SIZE FASHION WEEK UK Plus Size Fashion Week celebrated curves and plus-size style during a three-day event last month. Held at 8 Northumberland Avenue and organised by Rianne Ward of Evolve Media, the event attracted more than 300 guests to its catwalk shows this year, including press, buyers, bloggers and plus-size ambassadors, proving that plus-size fashion can be as widely coveted as mainstream. Models and guests from the plus-size industry were in attendance, such as Hayley Hasselhoff (who also walked for BoohooPlus), US YouTube sensation Loey Lane (who walked for her own line, The Loey Lane Collection), Nadia Aboulhosn, Jess & The Bandits, Chasity Valentine aka Garner Style, US style blogger Jessica Kane, Olivia Campbell, US gospel star Kierra Sheard and Callie Thorpe.

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03/ SECRETSALES FOUNDERS WIN ENTREPRENEURS OF THE YEAR Nish and Sash Kukadia, founders of online discount site Secretsales, were named Entrepreneurs of the Year at the 15th Asian Achievers Awards, during a star-studded ceremony at the Grosvenor House Hotel in London’s Park Lane, last month. The brothers founded Secretsales in 2007 and helped to revolutionise the online designer flash sales scene. The company now has over 3.5 million members, and has signed up over 100 new brands this year alone, with sales on the increase. Other winners include cricketing icon Moeen Ali, author Romesh Gunasekera, founder of forced marriage and honour abuse charity Karma Nirvana, Jasvinder Sanghera CBE, and Lord Rumi Verjee CBE. 04/ THE ART OF SCENT Following in the footsteps of its recent Art of Style event, Harvey Nichols launched its Art of Scent extravaganza earlier this month. An exclusive launch party at the luxury retailers’ flagship store with award-winning perfume designer Azzi Glasser kicked off the spectacle, celebrating the exclusive launch of her first collection of limited-edition fragrances, The Perfumer’s Story. A host of celebrities and fashionistas, including actress Sadie Frost and designer Bella Freud (pictured below with Azzi Glasser), attended the evening.

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Talking Point

Your views on the issues shaping the industry Being open minded reaps endless rewards

PAMELA SHIFFER Owner, Pamela Shiffer, London NW1 As women, we are peculiar creatures. I say that because I recognise all the traits in myself that made me think long and hard about a comment one of our customers said the other day. I hadn’t seen her for a while because, as she said, she hadn’t seen anything in the store that she thought was for

Finding unique products sets us apart

ADRIANA GREEN Owner, Scarecrow Boutique, Crouch End, London N8. Scarecrow Boutique is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) I always get excited about new deliveries. We’ve had a good response to our new label for a/w 15, One O Eight. It’s a Korean brand that sits well with our two Japanese labels. We’ve bought a

her for some time, and was only popping in to buy a birthday present for a friend. However, once inside the store, I started showing her some of our new collections and styles that I thought might be of interest.

Without sounding too smug, she was overwhelmed with our new brand mix, and was delighted with the stock we selected for her, to the point that she bought her complete autumn wardrobe during that visit, which surprised her because she had only planned to buy a scarf for her friend. This scenario made me appreciate that, as a customer, being open minded reaps endless rewards, and where possible we need to turn every situation into an opportunity. It’s also so important to listen to customers’ comments and take them on board, whether negative or positive.

I’m well aware that not every season’s buy is going to suit everyone, and various recent trends have been worn by some of our customers the first time round. However, our job is to be all inclusive while inventive at the same time. Having said that, as a buyer it’s important to embrace current trends, because not only does my store attract a mature clientele, but we also have the next

generation of customers to consider, and staying relevant is important in our industry. One of the observations I’ve made recently is a swing back to good old-fashioned tailoring, albeit with a modern twist, while dresses still reign supreme, providing you can replenish styles that sell out in a matter of days. And we are in love with the new term “coatigan”. Given that so far the weather has been kind to us and we’re experiencing some beautiful autumn days, this is the season for transitional knitwear, perfect for layering because it could be warm again by lunchtime and, with the ever increasing shows to visit and, dare I say, hot flushes to contend with, I now appreciate you have to be able to strip off (a bit) to stay cool.

On the subject of shows and the everexhausting show calendar, showroom visits, collection viewings etc, there’s no place like the shop floor to bring you back to earth, and where some of next season’s buying decisions will be made and moulded. In the meantime, I’m trying to live in the moment because I can already hear the words “Christmas presents” being uttered, while demands for appointments for next autumn 2016 come knocking.

Anyone seen my trainers?

fantastic range of separates, printed coats, culottes, skirts and knitwear. Prices average at £55, but the quality suggests they should be much more.

I am now eagerly awaiting the second drop of Wolf & Whistle – a range of heavily embellished eveningwear made from organza in gold and silver.

We have carried the brand for a few years, and one of the most remarkable things about it is that the printed fabrics are all designed in-house. It is factors like this that make a brand special and that our customers find attractive. Similarly, The Seamstress of Bloomsbury – a range of 40s and 50s inspired pieces – is another collection where the founders design and produce their own prints in crepe fabrics.

I work tirelessly to find unique products, and am always searching online via Twitter and LinkedIn. We’ve helped to launch and support several small and local designers who have gone on to do bigger and better things. Because I was once a fashion student myself, I empathise with those designers who are trying to secure a helping hand up the ladder. I studied at the London College of Fashion and went on to make womenswear and sell it wholesale, so I appreciate the challenges of launching a brand and finding a route to market.

My view is that customers can find their basics from chain stores, so we try to offer them something a little different at Scarecrow. Often this will be an extraordinary item that they can team with something they already have. We carry some layering basics from N & Willow – which retail from £19.99 – and they sit well with the more extravagant collections that we are recognised for.

After 16 years in business, my mother and I have a good idea of what our customers want.

One of our bestselling items has been the Rinascimento pencil dress with a ruched side. We have been selling it for nearly four years, in every colour and every print.

Uniqueness is important, but so is practicality.

We and our customers have an aversion to ironing.

The culottes from One O Eight are machine washable and don’t crease. Equally, one of the reasons we love Ongenu is for the practicality of the range – which is also machine washable – as well as the beautiful prints and versatility of the designs. It’s a tough balancing act between sourcing unusual collections and remaining commercial, but my background as a designer ensures I keep a firm grasp on our identity. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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THE EUROPEAN MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS w w w.panorama-berlin.com

Spring/Summer 2016 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO —

Q’neel

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com

®

DUBLIN SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

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Luxury Scottish knitwear brand Johnstons of Elgin is set to open its first London flagship store on New Bond Street this December. Tom Bottomley discovers why there’s a new vigour in the brand’s strategy from CEO Simon Cotton.

Tom Bottomley: What changes have you overseen at the company since you joined two years ago?

Simon Cotton: I think what we’ve changed most is setting up a structure that allows each of the senior team to drive forward projects themselves very quickly. It’s a complicated company because we have a lot of work going on across so many areas – we have two manufacturing mills, and we work in knitwear, accessories, home interiors and cloth production. We have our own retail mill shops, with coffee shops within them in both Elgin and Hawick, as well as a shop in St Andrews and one in Nantucket in the US. There’s also the brand’s wholesale operation and substantial private-label business, as well as the London shop, of course, which opens this December.

TB: Why is this the right time to open a London flagship?

SC: We’ve never had one, though we have had offices in London for a long time. Our business has been international for a very long time, and it’s been increasing. London has visitors from all over the world so it feels right for it to be a major focus for us.

People come to London to look for authentic luxury brands – when they’re looking for something with a UK provenance London is where they start to look, and it’s where we should be.

TB: Has there been a repositioning of the brand?

SC: I think there’s been a steady repositioning, focusing on our strengths. We supply a very high proportion of some of the world’s top luxury labels on the private-label side, and the brand itself is reflecting that quality within it. It’s increasingly a luxury label in its own right.

TB: Why do you feel New Bond Street is right for the brand?

SC: Obviously it’s a well-known address around the world. It’s also a place where people come to look for luxury products – not just from a retail perspective, but also from the wholesale side. Our wholesale offices will be located in the building as well, so it’s a good address for us.

SIMON COTTON CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

TB: How will it be set up?

SC: The ground floor and basement will be dedicated to retail, and we have three floors above that will be showroom and wholesale offices. It makes sense to have it all under one roof.

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TB: How is the brand split in terms of women’s compared to men’s?

SC: It depends on the location, but our expectation is that we’ll probably do more women’s out of New Bond Street. We just think that it’s more the demographic of the street. Even though overall we sell slightly more menswear over womenswear, our customers are still predominantly women. So women buying for men represents a sizeable proportion of our sales.

TB: In terms of product, has there been more of a push towards more contemporary styles?

SC: Over the last few years, the fit has certainly been evolving and becoming more contemporary, and there’s been a lot more attention to colours. We still have traditional elements within the offer, but it’s always traditional with a twist. It’s important to add newness to our product lines, for sure.

TB: Is everything still made in the factories in Scotland?

SC: Yes, absolutely. We have the woven mill in Elgin, and we have our knitwear mill in Hawick. We have a new knitwear design manager and she’s bringing some new ideas to the table, but we have a long established team in place. Our team has always been working at the very highest level, so there hasn’t been a clear-out or anything like that in terms of staff.

TB: Has the brand changed ownership in recent years like so many other British heritage labels?

SC: No, the ownership has remained with two families since it started 218 years ago. The Harrison family took it over from the Johnston family in 1920 and have had it ever since. The family very much views itself as a custodian of the business, looking after it for the next generation.

TB: Does the brand offer apprenticeships to teach up the next generation of skilled textile craftsmen and women?

SC: Absolutely. It’s one of the core values of what we’re doing.

Skills are critical. The company walks on the skills of its people.

So we have really pushed the modern apprenticeships within the organisation and, by the end of the year, we’ll have around 100 modern apprentices in the company, and that’s from within the last three years. So it’s a big push, not just to bring new

people in and give them the right skills, but to also accredit our existing workforce so that everybody has the opportunity to get a qualification to recognise what they are capable of doing.

TB: Who is the target market these days for the brand?

SC: Because the pieces tend to be timeless, they do have a very wide demographic, but the typical customer is 35-55 years old, and it’s probably 2:1 – female to male – bearing in mind the “women buying for men” factor.

TB: How do you view your most recent financial results?

SC: “Building” is probably the most apt word. We’re certainly going in the right direction, and I’m comfortable with where we are at the moment and where we’re heading. We’ve moved back into profitability, which is obviously important. We had a bit of a dip for a couple of years, but it was more about adjustments that needed to take place. However, we’ve always been a financially prudent and well-run company. You don’t get to 218 years without that.

TB: How do you intend to grow the brand further?

SC: The New Bond Street shop is a big step for us, but it’s more about the positioning of the brand, rather than going for huge growth. The majority of what we’re doing is still private label, and will always be – it’s at the heart of what we do. The brand plays a role for us; it acts as a showcase for all our capabilities.

From a manufacturing point of view, it’s useful to be able to make some product out of season, because our product is very seasonal for other people. It means we can try new things out, too. But the intention is that this will always be a niche artisan brand. People are interested in heritage and authenticity, made in a place that has a provenance to the product. So, as far as consumers are concerned, it’s the right message for us to be giving at the right time.

TB: So do you think that the history counts for a lot when it comes to consumer profile?

SC: It’s huge. If you add it all together, the fact that it’s a product made in Scotland – from the fibre through to the finished product – and it’s a family owned business that’s 218 years old, with a Royal Warrant, it’s a fairly compelling story to tell.

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Style File

The hottest brands not to miss this month t COMFY COUTURE Munich label Boulezar is launching to the UK for a/w 15. The brand reinterprets the image of modern luxury by focusing on distinctive quality, comfort and an unobtrusive, contemporary style. Micro-fabric linen is used in pockets to clean the displays of mobile phones, and all seams are bound within garments with a cotton band.

The collections are handmade in Munich by one of Boulezar’s traditional artisans, creating a modern wardrobe designed to last a lifetime.

q NOSTALGIA DE LUXE Sportswear brand Fila is capitalising on the recent demand for sports heritage, and has raided its extensive archives to unearth trend-relevant pieces from many decades ago. In addition to its core Vintage collection, the label is also launching Black Label and Fila Gold, offering nostalgia with sports luxe across its collections.

HANDS-FREE CHIC Forget ugly belt bags of the past, today’s solution to keeping valuables safe while still looking stylish comes in the form of Lisa Lemon’s hands-free bags and accessories. Made in England from high-quality leathers, the designs are available in a range of colours and feature internal phone pockets.

t WHEN IT RAINS Conceived on the rainy streets of Copenhagen, Danish clothing and accessories brand Rains succinctly combines style and practicality within its durable and sophisticated collection.

Combining aesthetic with functionality, Rains has newly interpreted the traditional raincoat. The a/w 15 range is defined by understated sophistication and technical fabrics, with each of the jackets and coats 100 per cent waterproof.

u TASTY TRAINERS Saucony Originals has kicked off a/w 15 with its Sushi Pack range.

Inspired by the Japanese food, the collection features hues of wasabi and ginger, with styles made of synthetic materials featuring an Eva mid-sole for luxurious cushioning and comfort.

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Smartphone, Smart Shopping Stylefruits is the digital companion for all style questions for fashion and home. With ten million visits per month, eight million Facebook fans and over two million app-downloads, stylefruits is the leading recommendation platform for fashion and home in Europe.

The platform offers what has long been an essential part of the decision process of buying books, electronics and holiday packages, now for fashion: authentic user recommendations. As a shop aggregator, stylefruits offers advantages not only to users but also to its partner shops: targeted traffic with high conversion rates. stylefruits is currently active in the UK, Germany, France, the Netherlands and Poland and accessible via the web or smartphone and tablet apps.

On stylefruits.co.uk and via the stylefruits App, fashion-conscious women can find shopping inspiration and style advice from other users. Central to the recommendation platform are sincere recommendations: trendy – and affordable – outfits for women, by women.

Through cooperation with a comprehensive range of fashion retailers, stylefruits offers a wide assortment of clothing, shoes and accessories. With the outfit-creator, the heart of the recommendation platform, users can create entire outfits using thousands of items from stylefruits’ partner shops in just a few clicks. Over two million outfits have already been created by stylefruits users. These outfits can then be commented on, rated and shared, and thus serve as recommendations and inspiration for purchases: with one click users arrive

directly at the appropriate partner shop and can easily purchase desired items.

In this manner, targeted traffic is directed towards the connected partner shops. Since recommendations have a great influence over the purchase decision, the online-shops profit from the connection of their products to the user-generated content of the stylefruits community. Furthermore, users who are directed to the site of a partner shop have already demonstrated an intent to purchase, meaning that partner shops benefit from an increase in highly targeted traffic with high conversion rates. stylefruits’ cooperation with partner shops is based on a CPC-schema (Cost-per-Click).

More than a quarter of all online sales in the UK take place via smartphones and tablet devices according to a survey of emarketer. With the stylefruits App, users receive daily updates about new products, the best stylecreations, tips and favourite products from the stylefruits Community directly on their smartphones. Since its release at the end of 2014, the stylefruits App has quickly become a user favourite. The app has been downloaded over two million times.

The stylefruits App is available free of charge in the App Store or Google Play.

WITH THE OUTFIT-CREATOR, THE HEART OF THE RECOMMENDATION PLATFORM, USERS CAN CREATE ENTIRE OUTFITS USING THOUSANDS OF ITEMS FROM STYLEFRUITS’ PARTNER SHOPS IN JUST A FEW CLICKS.

For more information on partnerships please contact Ms. Evelyn Hummels: accountmanagement@stylefruits.de

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Rainy day fashion A stylish coat is a must have for dull, rainy autumn days.

These styles – available now for in-store delivery – promote both fashion and function.

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01/ AIGLE £88 0160 8813 860 • 02/ SUGARHILL BOUTIQUE £28 01273 911814 • 03/ LANDS’ END £70 020 7384 6111 04/ WHITE STUFF £85 020 7091 8558 • 05/ NOBIS £152 020 7404 8264 • 06/ GLOVERALL £130 0160 481 2812 07/ POPPY LUX £23 01273 911814 • 08/ PEOPLE TREE £68 020 7042 8920 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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Fashion Radar

LEXINGTON Swedish brand Lexington is a true lifestyle label, expertly combining fashion with a stylish homeware offer, all in its unmistakable New England style.

Lexington may hail from Sweden, but its design is firmly rooted in the chic and exclusive Hamptons, with the brand known for its East Coast heritage and New England style. Targeting the sophisticated 30-45 age group, Lexington’s strength lies in its unique combination of clothing with fashion-led homeware, comprising two seasonal fashion collections and four seasonal homeware lines each year. For s/s 16, the brand combines old classics with new modern items, all featuring fashion twists and an individual aesthetic. Preppy jackets, long dresses and relaxed trousers are key, with colours ranging from soft pastels to summer brights. All items are easy-to-wear while elegant and yet casual, using only high-quality materials such as cotton, wool, silk and cashmere. Stocked in the likes of House of Fraser and John Lewis, as well as upmarket independent boutiques across the UK, the label is envisaging further growth through selected partner stores over the next few seasons, with a flagship store in London and the roll-out of shop-in-shop concepts earmarked for 2016. www.lexingtoncompany.com

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The perfect fit After almost four decades at the forefront of denim, JQ Jeans – formerly known as Jonny Q – remains committed to fabric innovations and technological advances that ensure its jeans are some of the best fitting around. Isabella Griffiths caught up with founder and owner Pasquale Orza to find out what sets the brand apart from its competitors.

Credited with having launched the first stretch jean back in the 70s, JQ Jeans – formerly known as Jonny Q – has been at the forefront of denim innovation since it was launched nearly four decades ago. Founder and owner Pasquale Orza, who is the driving force behind the label, recalls fondly the moment he first discovered stretch denim – an invention that would revolutionise the jeans market completely. “Honestly, when I saw the first 10 metres of stretch denim that came from Kaihara Denim in Japan, I felt that this was the future,” he says, still noticeably excited. “I asked Mr Kaihara for how long he would give me exclusivity. He smiled, tapped my young shoulders and said, “I’ll help you for one year.”

Thereafter, I had a very short space of time in which to maximise this innovation and exclusivity,” says Orza.

It’s fair to say that Orza made the most of it, and he quickly established JQ as the leader in figure-shaping denim. Having grown up in Hertfordshire during the 60s fashion revolution, Orza’s career in the denim world has been long and illustrious, and always defined by an obsession with fabric developments, inventive patterncutting, new dying and laundering methods, as well as artisan hand-finished detailing, which have shaped the brand over the years.

“One of my first jobs in the fashion industry was with the European distributor of Brazil’s largest denim company,” says Orza. “Here I discovered that I had a love for all things denim.

I was captivated by the diversity that denim offers in clothing design, and was deeply impressed by the potential for superior fit, which was not possible with other fabrics. From that moment on, I was constantly drawn to working in the denim industry, and this eventually led to my involvement with Peter Golding in Hong Kong.”

Golding, himself a denim legend of course, and his shop Ace in Chelsea were a big influence on Orza and the JQ label at the time. “From the launch of the first Lycra jeans and the eventual

development of stretch denim and composite fabrics, my drive and focus has always been committed to feminine and body conscious jeans.

Even during the 80s, the huge success of Jonny Q with the original “paper bag carrot jean” meant that it was the most feminine and sexy baggy jean on the market, so much so that it was widely copied all over Europe and subject to 40 legal actions for infringement of copyright and style registration,” says Orza.

“Today, having worked constantly with the latest fabric technology, JQ Jeans’ point of difference remains a combination of fabric technology together with our fit and washing experience to achieve a Cosmetic Jean, which is available in several silhouettes,” he continues, though he is a bit more guarded to give away any more details of the secret of JQ’s famous fit and fabrics. “In the past, we revealed too much about our product, giving lead to our competitors.

Suffice to say, we use denim with the best cotton yarns and latest x-fit technology. Our washes are ecological and are certified and approved in collaboration with Green Peace.”

Despite being a UK label, everything is designed and produced in the brand’s factory and laundry in Italy – which is why Orza describes the label as “British by heart and Italian by hand.”

While the cosmetic jeans are at the core of the label, JQ has also been developing non-denim jeans fabrics, including bi-stretch, nylon and legging jersey.

The spring/summer 2016 collection, for instance, includes jacquards, 100 per cent stretch gabardine, 100 per cent stretch light technical denim and the introduction of a super comfort stretch Tencel dungaree. Signature styles include Penelope, Daniela and Debbie – three key silhouettes that represent the brand’s body sculpting cosmetic qualities and the Nip + Tuck effect that the brand is famous for. “The fabric developments are trend-led, but the silhouettes are purely contemporary and follow our own identity,” says Orza.

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The label’s rebranding from Jonny Q to JQ Jeans a few years ago followed a round of investment in the brand, which also changed the distribution set-up. JQ is now sold by London agency Love Brands, which is keen to grow the label from its currently 80 accounts to 200 to 250 across the UK and Ireland. “Our target customers are multichannel independent boutiques and premium department stores,” says Love Brand’s co-owner, Hugo Deane. “Our distribution is looking very healthy across the UK and Ireland, where we currently have over 80 confirmed stockists.

“Independent retailers in Ireland are providing us with an exciting, emerging market, too,” he continues. “We are looking for growth and depth – quality rather than quantity. Our ideal customer is a partner, and our best partnerships are those founded on great communication and mutual benefits for both sides. We love working with retailers who share our vision of growing together and developing a long-term strategy, especially since denim is very much a core product around which other collections can be built. Since JQ works with many different cloths including denim, we can help to anchor a boutique’s product mix with a strong, diverse and relevant offer, around which the retailer can then grow their business.”

With wholesale prices for the spring/summer 2016 collection starting at £31 for a capri, rising to £46 for more elaborate styles and a mark-up of 2.8, JQ Jeans offers premium denim at affordable price-points, which adds to the commercial appeal of the brand.

To this day, Orza – who names DSquared as one of the brands he admires for its commitment to individual style – remains excited by denim, and continues to work closely as a consultant with several denim producers. Asked whether he believes in the longevity of denim, his answer gives away his fascination with the fibre. “Denim as a cloth will never go out of fashion. It’s a living fabric that develops with the person who wears it. It’s versatile and will therefore always be an investment.”

www.elenamiro.com

BLD LONDON Tel. +442075805075

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Increasing conversions with video marketing Marc Schillaci, CEO and founder of Actinic, which is part of e-commerce provider Oxatis Group, looks at the importance of video marketing, its impact on businesses and how video content not only brings product alive and reduce returns, but it can also help SMEs improve their Google rankings.

Seventy three per cent of consumers are more likely to buy a product after watching a video, according to a survey by ReelSEO. Video marketing has almost become synonymous with YouTube, but not all businesses have caught on to the popularity of video yet.

Here are a few stats from YouTube that will, no doubt, pique some interest – six billion hours watched each month, 100 hours of video uploaded every minute and one billion unique visits each month. Video marketing for ecommerce is a means of showcasing products and your business while gaining visibility and using new marketing channels.

Why use video marketing for your business?

However detailed your description, and no matter the number of images you provide, stepping outside the restraints of 2D and giving potential clients a product video will definitely give them a better understanding of the product they’re buying.

Ninety six per cent of those surveyed by ReelSEO found it easier to make an online buying decision if they’d watched a video. Video brings a product to life, providing buyers with more information than photos can, taking them less time and effort to research a product, keeping the buying funnel fast and fluid. Video not only gives eshopppers a better insight into a product, but it also reduces the number of returns. Half of those surveyed by ReelSEO said they would be less likely to return products if they could watch demonstration videos.

Video marketing also acts as a trust element, instilling faith in your company, with 58 per cent of respondents considering brands that produce video content to be more trustworthy and 77 per cent seeing companies that create online videos as more engaged with customers (ReelSEO).

While improving user experience, video marketing will also help you climb the Google rankings, giving you greater visibility, as Google prioritises video content. According to Econsultancy, there are several elements to consider when preparing videos for SEO, optimising meta data (video title and description tags), for example.

Make sure viewers can comment on videos and share them, as the more videos are shared on social media the more Google will prioritise them and your site will receive more traffic. The more views a video has, the higher it will be positioned in search

engines, so don’t hesitate to share it across marketing channels. In short, videos promote a better user experience and encourage buys. They assist in reducing the number of returns and give your company a more professional and trustworthy image, therefore creating stronger customer relations. Retails sites that use videos to present their products enjoy multiple benefits, an increase in the time visitors spend on site, bigger average basket sizes and higher conversion rates.

What should you consider when launching a video marketing campaign?

The obvious aim for video marketing is to show off your business and its products in the best light possible. The most popular videos are full of information, descriptive and demonstrative, 360-degree views of the products, close ups and action shots. Bear in mind that making videos can be expensive, so ask yourself the following questions – which of my products are particularly technical?

Are there new-to-market products that merit extra explication? Which products have a long life cycle and will give you the chance to recoup the cost of making a video?

Product videos should be short – two or three minutes is a surprisingly long time when it comes to keeping consumers attention. You’ll also be saving yourself money, as video creation can be costly. Eighty three per cent of internet users confirmed that the ideal video length for them would be under five minutes (according to video maker Animoto). To cut down on time, you can use bullet points or captions in your video rather than a constant voiceover – this will also give you the opportunity to add clickable links to provide more info or take viewers to a landing page.

Ecommerce provides a multitude of video marketing options and a number of video genres that suit ecommerce needs. Product videos can categorised into three main types of video – product presentation, product demonstration and “behindthe-scenes” videos. Product presentation videos give the opportunity to provide an array of information on a product, demo videos can be created in the form of product use tutorials or step-by-step guides and behind-the-scenes videos delve more into the origin or manufacture of products.

Video marketing can also be used to showcase

testimonials for your products or business, considering that 85 per cent of consumers look for online reviews to gain insight into a company before buying (BrightLocal), a collection of video testimonials can be a great way of reassuring consumers.

Once the videos have been made the next step is deciding where to publish them, which brings us back to YouTube. By creating your own channel you can showcase all your videos whatever type; tutorial, testimonial, etc. You can also use YouTubers (YouTube personalities) that already have a following in your target market, to spread the word about your products and videos. Providing YouTubers with a free sample can get the ball rolling and you can benefit from reviews or video sharing (some may want financial compensation so make sure you agree on terms).

The benefits of YouTube for SMBs YouTube is the second most visited platform in the world. You can opt for YouTube to launch your business and also to render your business more profitable. Take advantage of its 500 million active users. Here are the pros of YouTube in a few short phrases: • A great way to popularise your product.

• A product feedback tool: receive comments and opinions from viewers.

• An easy-to-use platform for sharing content.

• A great tool for increasing visibility without investing large sums – if you don’t have a big budget for creating videos you can still use your YouTube channel to share other videos related to your sector.

• Access to accurate statistics through YouTube Insight.

• The possibility of creating a YouTube Ads campaign. You can then target the most appropriate internet users for your business, with a pre-agreed budget. Another great way of bringing traffic to your site.

Outside of YouTube, videos fit nicely onto product pages, adding to the descriptions and photos already provided. They can be sent out in newsletters and of course, shared on every social platform your business uses. Finally, don’t forget to make your videos mobile friendly, as 94 per cent of desktop users and 76 per cent of smartphone users watch a video at least once a week (Animoto).

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Big business Plus-size fashion has experienced strong growth over the last five years, with more players creating stronger collections that are just as trendy and stylish as their “regular” sized counterparts. Isabella Griffiths takes a look at the factors driving the rapid expansion of the sector, and whether standard size retailers are missing a lucrative trick by not catering for the plus-size fashionista.

The UK plus-size clothing sector has been rapidly expanding over the last few years. Retailers such as Boohoo, Asos Curve, Navabi, Simply Be, Evans, House of Fraser and so on have been responding to increased consumer demand with dedicated plus-size ranges and departments that aim to cater for an increasingly style-savvy and trend-hungry plussize fashionista.

A fashion revolution is afoot, driven by young and trendy plus-size (role) models such as Tess Holliday and Ashley Graham – curvy fashion bloggers and celebrities who are flying the flag for plus-size fashion. They demand not only choice and diversity, but also a change in attitudes towards larger ladies as credible and powerful fashion shoppers. Recent events such as UK Plus Size Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week Plus, held alongside their reputable “standard” counterparts, demonstrate the shift in the way plus size is becoming increasingly integrated into mainstream fashion.

“There was a point not so long ago when plus-size fashion was concentrated on an older, less fashion-focused customer.

However, with the new blogger generation comes a voice that can’t be ignored,” says Matthew Newton, founder of young fashion brand Lavish Alice, which has extended the size range of its regular collection to a size 18, and has also launched an exclusive range for Simply Be in sizes 20-26. “Thanks to Instagram, Tumblr and the blogging community, a lot of young women have a vast amount of trend knowledge, and continually want fresh and new options to choose from. The plus-size consumer is no different; she wants a great mixture of choice, cutting edge styles and flattering shapes. Lavish Alice looks to offer this, with fashion-forward cape blazers and super-sexy bodycon midi dresses. Our customer comes in all shapes and sizes, so it is our number one priority that our collections cater to every single one of them.”

This is mirrored by Heidie Lykke, co-founder of Danish brand Carmakoma, which has gone from strength-to-strength since it was launched in 2008. “We have seen big developments in the business, but also in the target group,” she says. “We call this a new consumer. She is part of a revolution. She wants to have a voice and she will be using it. She is full of confidence in herself and she dares to talk about her size – and this girl is an inspiration for all the other girls who don’t. Trend-wise, curvy women want the same opportunities as their friends in regular sizes, they do not want to feel neglected.”

Ditte Marie Bay, international brand manager for Junarose, part of Danish Bestseller group, agrees with the tenor. The brand has also seen an increase in demand and has experienced significant growth, particularly in the UK. “The focus has definitely increased on the plus-size segment. More and more brands put plus size into focus – which brings about a new norm, where being plus size is more socially acceptable.

Retailers and e-tailers are also getting stronger and believing more in it. In turn, this gives the consumer more opportunity.”

While undeniably the plus-size sector has experienced a boost – with sales up 24.1 per cent in the five years to 2015, according to findings by market analyst Verdict – research, however, also suggests that the sector is still a long way off catching up with mainstream fashion. According to Verdict’s recent study, Plus Size Womenswear in the UK, published earlier this year, size 18-plus women spend on average 17.1 per cent less on clothing than the core womenswear shopper, the equivalent of £152.80 per year. By improving choice, fashionability and targeting underserved consumer segments, retailers have the potential to get plus-size consumers to spend the same amount as the average woman – £894 a year – which would boost the plus-size clothing market by an extra £740m. It’s big business that currently remains untapped.

The premium end in particular seems to be neglected by fashion companies. Verdict’s consumer survey claims that 22.3 per cent of plus-size shoppers are in the AB socio-economic group, and 76 per cent do not feel there is enough choice for them available at premium pricing. The report warns that as disposable incomes gradually recover, shoppers will be better able to trade up, therefore the void of a premium plus-size offer must be filled. This is something Emma Hayes, owner of Brighton plus-size indie Emma Plus, is recognising. “The fashion on offer to the plus-size woman is still far behind its smaller sized rivals,” she says. “To put it simply, we do not see the fragmentation into distinct looks that one finds in mainstream fashion. This, along with the higher-quality clothing standards, is the main missing link in the plus-size offer of today. My own store sells clothing from sizes 20 to 36, and I find that we are greatly in demand, particularly for the more designer pieces, and for the larger items. We can basically sell every really lovely item of size 30-plus clothing in a heartbeat as soon as it’s delivered to my store.”

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One of the brands trying to address the lack of premium plus-size fashion is UK label Elvi. According to managing director Shezad Patel, there are still significant pockets in product categories and merchandise that do not cater enough for the plus-size consumer, and which Elvi is increasingly adding to its mix. “In my view, the industry isn’t meeting the demand for fashionable, premium plus-size clothing – we are working on changing that,” says Patel, who also advocates that more “regular” stores should extend their size range, arguing that plus size should not be a domain of specialist stores. “The same goes for denim. A woman, regardless of her size, should be able to walk into any store, knowing they offer her size. Women shouldn’t be labelled ‘regular’ or ‘plus size’.”

Patel is not wrong in his suggestion. Verdict’s research confirms that 60.9 per cent of plus-size consumers prefer to shop a retailer’s core offer rather than a special plus-size sub-brand, with only 25.2 per cent wanting to buy into specialist ranges. It is hence also a logical assumption that the same consumers would prefer to shop in regular rather than specialist stores.

Most specialist brands and retailers, however, would argue that creating and selling plus-size fashion is not as easy as just extending the size range upwards. Fit, comfort and quality need to be particularly considered, even if in terms of looks and trends the aim is to look like any other fashion range. “We are 100 per cent dedicated to plus size. We do not have to care about how our garment would fit a size 10. Fit is crucial for us and we can only deliver the perfect fit when creating our patterns from a size 14,” says Junarose’s Marie Bay. “However, when it comes to making fashionable and trendy styles, the

whole point is not to set us apart from non-specialist brands.

The idea of Junarose was to make a brand that looked like our [Bestseller’s] other high-street labels, but with a strong focus on fit. Our clothes both reflect the newest trends while being comfortable and flattering on a plus-size body.”

So while there is a noticeable buzz around plus-size fashion, it seems that the biggest progress and drive has come from online stores rather than high-street players or independent boutiques. It is something that brands such as Carmakoma, Elvi and Junarose are hoping will change as demand, acceptance and public exposure of the huge and lucrative potential of the plus-size sector continues to rise. “Most of our sales are still through specialist plus-size retailers, but we are seeing that more regular stores want to enter the plus-size market and extend their offer,” says Marie Bay. “It could be an opportunity for many retailers but, to do it right, they would need to dedicate floor space as well as launching more than one brand to be able to satisfy the end consumer, therefore it requires investment.”

Lykke also remains quietly optimistic about plus size reaching mainstream retail in the future. “Retailers such as Asos are doing a really good job, and I think they are game changers for many retailers,” she says. “So far, we are carried by only a handful of ‘regular’ stores, however we hope that one day more standard-size retailers will carry plus-size brands, too.

The development [in the sector] is so interesting. I really believe that in the future we will not be as divided as we are today – the curvy woman will be able to shop the same places as her friends and not feel stigmatised because she needs to go to a special division.”

“WE CALL THIS A NEW CONSUMER. SHE IS PART OF A REVOLUTION. SHE WANTS TO HAVE A VOICE AND SHE WILL BE USING IT. SHE IS FULL OF CONFIDENCE AND SHE DARES TO TALK ABOUT HER SIZE”

ELVI

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Curve appeal WWB takes a look at some of the best plus-size brands around, combining style and key trends with flattering silhouettes and impeccable craftsmanship.

CARMAKOMA Danish brand Carmakoma is the brainchild of Angelica Weiss and Heidie Lykke, who met in 1997 at design school Teko. Just over 10 years later, after various stints designing for renowned Danish fashion companies, the duo realised their dream of creating trendy designerwear in plus sizes.

The label’s design is a mix of Scandinavian minimalism with a touch of rock-chick glam – feminine sweetness, sexy cuts and edgy details.

JUNAROSE From the brand stable of Danish fashion group Bestseller comes the company’s dedicated plus-size range, Junarose, which was launched in July 2013 and has since seen rapid growth. A fastfashion collection, the label is aimed at the young and trend-conscious consumer, with carefully tailored fits and flattering cuts ensuring that each style embraces the female silhouette.

ELVI UK brand Elvi aims to create premium clothing for stylish women, with design-led collections inspired by classic style and the latest catwalk trends. The brand’s ethos is to design clothing that flatters and enhances the fuller figure and doesn’t hide it. Covering a size range from 14 to 26, the collections are expertly tailored, with versatile looks for every occasion.

CITY GODDESS Fun, flirty and fashionable is the brand philosophy of City Goddess, which was launched in 2003 and has since seen rapid growth across department stores, boutiques and online fashion sites. The brand prides itself on picking up on key trends as soon as they hit the catwalks, with celebrity styles on top of its fashion agenda. Twists on the classic day to evening dress are key in the collection, with statement details including peplums and lace panels.

SAMOON Samoon has long been one of the go-to brands for plus-size fashion, and its mix of casual chic and elegance has built up a big customer base. The German label from the Gerry Weber stable continues its signature style of trend-led pieces, which are interpreted to fit and flatter the fuller figure.

Current highlights include sports-luxe inspired jogging pants, wool coats, oversized cardigans, lace tops and ponchos, with an array of prints and colour options rounding off the collection.

ELENA MIRO Italian brand Elena Miro is known for its huge versatility, offering styles that take the wearer from work to weekend, from casual looks to elegant evening styles. The brand’s a/w 15 collection revisits knitwear in a modern way, with looks including tracksuit bottoms with V-neck sweaters with zip, or dresses with detachable cowl neck.

MARINA RINALDI Italian luxury plus-size brand Marina Rinaldi focuses on trend-led and contemporary designs this season, with key catwalk looks interpreted in the range. Luxurious cocoon wool and cashmere coats feature heavily, as do oversized cardigans and coatigans, juxtaposed against more fitted silhouettes to create flattering shapes.

LITTLE MISTRESS CURVE The sister brand to the hugely successful Little Mistress range, Little Mistress Curve was launched two years ago, initially exclusively to Asos, with 10 styles that ran alongside the main collection. Due to the huge demand for the range, however, the label has grown significantly, and will be available for general wholesale from its Christmas collection onwards.

ELENA MIRO

SAMOON

CITY GODDESS

ELVI

CARMAKOMA

LITTLE MISTRESS CURVE

MARINA RINALDI

JUNAROSE

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Best of British British design is in high demand the world over, thanks to quintessentially British values such as impeccable craftsmanship, attention to detail and individual design which define the aesthetic and ethic of our home-grown labels. WWB takes a look at some of the most loved British brands and the stories behind the labels.

HAWICK KNITWEAR With a textile manufacturing background traceable back to 1874, Hawick Knitwear is named after its roots in the eponymous town in the Scottish Borders. The brand was formally relaunched as a modern knitwear label in 2005 and has since built up a loyal following in the UK as well as internationally, serving 300 accounts in the UK and another 300 globally. Mixing both classic and fashion pieces, Hawick Knitwear is mostly known for its lambswool products, but increasingly its cashmere ranges have been key drivers of sales. All products are entirely made in Scotland and apply the pioneering Total Easy Care (TEC) finish for lambswool and Merino, as well as using only highest quality yarns, dyed and spun in the UK and Europe. The brand is launching its Great British Collection this autumn, featuring iconic knitwear styles from around the British Isles and available from stock, reflecting the brand’s pride in being a British brand.

NOMADS Cornish brand Nomads was born from a chance meeting by owners and founders Vicky Jackson and Duncan Harvey in India during a backpacking adventure. Their shared love for rich colours, textured fabrics and artisan crafts led them to set up Nomads in 1989. From its bohemian roots the brand has grown to serve over 500 accounts globally, but always staying true to the fair and ethical company ethos that has informed the brand from the start. Contemporary looks with a bohemian touch summarise the signature of the range, with looks that span casual, holiday wear as well as special occasions.

The brand’s USP is based around unique prints and ethically sourced organic cotton, with shapes to fit and flatter every woman. But it doesn’t stop there.

Nomads is still looking to expand, both in terms of global distribution as well as product range, and is looking to extend its organic cotton line into new woven fabrics. Knitwear is also a new product for the company, having just launched for s/s 16, providing complete outfit options and increasing the commercial appeal of the brand further.

JOULES Established by Tom Joule in Market Harborough in 1989, Joules is one of the UK’s great success stories. Driven by Joule’s entrepreneurial spirit, the brand has a loyal global customer-base spanning 600 wholesale accounts and 99 own retail stores as well as a successful mail-order and e-commerce business. The brand’s signature of practical yet stylish clothing, always with a quirky twist, has been going from strength to strength and has translated from fashion to now also spanning accessories, homewares, toiletries and eyewear.

Joules sets itself apart by being aspirational whilst remaining accessible, which runs through all aspects of the business – all brand imagery portrays everyday, real-life families enjoying time off together. The products are designed to be lived in and loved.

Joules’ financial figures speak for themselves, with the brand having recently announced record figures for the 52 weeks ending 25 May, with total revenue growth of 22 per cent to £117m, up from £96.3m the previous year. Future plans include further store openings, including Grand Central Station Birmingham, Stansted, Milton Keynes and Dublin. The product range is also set to be expanded with the introduction of different retail segments including coastal, travel and metro, as well as the relaunch of the brand’s website, which will enhance the customer experience by showing in more detail the quality of each product.

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LILY & ME Based in Stroud, Gloucestershire, Lily & Me began its wholesale journey as Amari in 2007 and now has over 350 stockists nationwide.

A family-run business, the company has grown from strength to strength since rebranding as Lily & Me in 2012. The brand’s focus is on exclusive signature prints and thoughtful attention to detail, with all products designed in-house and targeting women of all ages. Proud to be a British label and of its countryside setting, all the brand’s prints and designs evolve and are inspired by the British countryside, wonderful coastline and beautiful villages. Thanks to the commercial success of the label over the last few years, the brand is looking to further expand its reach in the wholesale marketplace, with increased exposure among independent boutiques as well as closer department-store tie-ups.

EMRECO Founded in 1926 by current owner Richard Reinhold’s grandfather, a credit draper selling to local shops in and around Glasgow, the Emreco brand was formally introduced in 1946, and the company began to sell throughout the UK and Ireland. Richard joined the company in 1988, and with the help of the company’s loyal staff the brand evolved from a knitwear house to a womenswear label with a broad seasonal collection and its own distinctive handwriting. The brand now has over 350 stockists in the UK and Ireland and its customers love the brand for its easy to wear and flattering collections. In its nearly 90-year history the brand has been part of the classic look of the 50s, the flower power of the 60s and the skinny rib and hot pants of the 70s, and throughout the 80s, 90s and noughties it has continued to remain focused on its customers’ needs and adapting key trends in a wearable and accessible fashion. Emreco prides itself on working closely with its retail customers, and recent developments have included a much closer partnership with its stockists and in particular supporting their movement online with a full library of campaign images for the e-commerce sector, which continues the organic and sustained evolution of the brand.

POMODORO Launched in 1992 by husband and wife team Hemant and Noreen Puri, Pomodoro was created to fill a gap in the market for individual, feminine and affordable clothing. The brand combines vibrant colour palettes with a modern femininity loved by confident women around the world, with the brand’s USP based around carefully coordinated dresses and separates that effortlessly mix and match, whilst also standing on their own. With more than 1000 accounts globally, the brand continues to expand and over the last couple of years has moved parts of its manufacturing back to the UK, which has helped cement the brand as one of the key players in British mainstream fashion.

The success of the British produced garments has been such that Hemant and Noreen are now planning to expand and develop the production in Britain further, rounding off what has been over two decades of success for the London brand.

DENTS Glove and accessory brand Dents certainly needs no introduction. But few people know that it’s actually one of the oldest surviving fashion companies in the world, having been founded by master craftsman John Dent in Worcester in 1777 during the reign of George III. Known for having been very meticulous, from the beginning Dent only used the finest English and French leather and created new cutting and fitting techniques, far ahead of his time. Now based in Warmister, Wiltshire, the company continues to operate on the same principles and has stockists in most major towns and cities across the UK as well as 40 countries around the world. Chamois hand-sewn peccary leather gloves for men and women are still the signature product of Dents, though it has long expanded into accessories and small leather goods. Dents manages to successfully bridge heritage with modernity and has seen sales grow steadily over the years, bucking the difficult economic trend. Future plans include focusing on ensuring the brand remains at the helm of futuristic technical accessories as well as in traditional heritage styles, strengthening its range of hats, scarves, bags and small leather goods, as well as its signature gloves.

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GLOVERALL Gloverall’s success story starts in post-war Britain, five years after the end of the Second World War, when Harold and Freda Morris, owners of gloves and overall wholesaler H&F Morris, were offered a large quantity of surplus military duffle coats, which quickly sold as functional workwear.

When supplies ran out, the branding was refined as The Original Gloverall Duffle Coat, and the brand was born.

The iconic duffle coat still remains at the heart of the brand’s seasonal collections, however, in addition each season Gloverall combines classic outerwear looks with a complete collection of men’s and womenswear designed to tick trend boxes while staying true to the roots and heritage of the brand. Made entirely in Britain, premium British fabrics are at the core, with tweeds from Abraham Moon, Fox Brothers and Harris Tweed featuring alongside waxed cottons

by Halley Stevens and bonded cottons by British Millerain. The brand currently has 60 accounts in the UK and serves over 500 stores internationally.

JAMES LAKELAND James Lakeland’s passion for design began when working at his father’s manufacturing business which specialised in luxury suede and leather men’s and womenswear.

The eponymous James Lakeland brand was founded in 1990, and ten years later the brand launched its first capsule knitwear range which focused on luxurious cashmere and wool blends in rich tonal shades. The knitwear collection gained widespread acclaim and its effortless and elegant look went on to form the basis of James Lakeland’s mainline womenswear collection. British by design, but made in Italy, the brand has always focused on high quality production with impeccable craftsmanship and high quality fabrics at its core. The brand has become synonymous with its skilfully tailored coats and dresses, as well as quirky standout separates and is now an international operation that spans wholesale, retail and e-commerce. Expansion across all of its multiple channels is high on the brand’s future agenda, as well as strengthening the partnerships with its customers, which have always been led by the personal relationships of owner and designer James Lakeland.

MARBLE Marble is the brainchild of Glasgow based entrepreneurs Nick Williams and Lynne Paul. After years of trading in both retail and wholesale environments, they decided that, instead of sourcing from other brands, it was time to develop their own commercial, multi-layered brand that would appeal to the needs of today’s marketplace. That was in 2008, and the duo have not looked back since.

Though its core business remains in the UK and Ireland, the brand is now represented in 14 countries, serving 500 UK customers and a whopping 1300 globally. Williams and Paul put the success of their label down to ensuring the brand ticks all the right boxes in terms of design, deliveries, quality and accessible price architecture, which are at the core of the label’s philosophy. Marble has become known for effortless chic and feminine dressing with original detailing, with “ageless” appeal. The brand continues its global expansion and has recently added the USA to its export territories, whilst still seeing considerable potential in the UK and in markets across the world.

BRAINTREE CLOTHING Braintree Clothing has been championing eco-fibre since it was launched back in 2001, offering affordable clothing that was produced ethically and with sustainability in mind. This ethos has remained at the forefront of the label with a commitment to making stylish and timeless fashion while caring for the environment. Sustainable fibres such as hemp, bamboo and organic cotton form the foundations of the collections, though the brand has worked hard over the years to innovate and source the best natural and organic fabrics available. The brand has a loyal customer base of over 500 UK stockists and 450 worldwide, and continues to expand year after year while staying true to its design and production principles. New openings with high-profile retailers are on the cards, as well as the development of the company’s marketing campaigns, and even a flagship store in London is in the making, so watch this space.

TURN OVERLEAF TO READ WHY THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE BRANDS ARE PROUD TO BE PART OF THE BRITISH FASHION INDUSTRY.

Quality Luxury Heritage Made in Scotland

Stock Service for immediate delivery T: 01450 363100 E: sales@hawickknitwear.com www.hawickknitwear.com

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Rule Britannia WWB quizzes the people behind the key UK womenswear brands about what it means to them to be a British label, and why they are flying the flag for British design.

NOREEN PURI, CO-OWNER, POMODORO

“A British brand is quintessentially regarded for quality, innovation, individuality and reliability and we aspire to achieve all of these aspects in our own British womenswear brand.

Britishness is now less about the glories of the past and more about individuality, humour, smart design and recognition of the cultural mix.

For most products, it still says quality and prestige – all of which has made Britishness more exportable.

British labels can provide luxury, quality, prestige, heritage, craftsmanship, skill but also quirkiness, humour, unique design, individuality and reliability.

The UK has a richly deserved reputation as one of the global leaders in fashion design and trendsetting. Some of the most iconic brands in contemporary fashion are from the UK. The British clothing sector is defined by the creativity of its designers, the diversity of its high street shopping opportunities and the strength of its fashion education system.”

We’re flying the flag for British brands because we are immensely proud of our identity, our values and our place in the fashion world.

NICK WILLIAMS, CO-OWNER, MARBLE

JAMES LAKELAND, OWNER, JAMES LAKELAND

“Being part of the British fashion industry we are part of a well-respected group of people. No matter where we sell, it is a way to get a foot in the door. In fashion, the UK carries a tremendous amount of respect.

As a British brand in a global marketplace we are perceived to be innovators, leaders in setting style. At Marble we see this as something to focus on – we can deliver something that stands out in a busy market.

Given the past history of British fashion, the eyes of the fashion consumer are on us. As a country we do so much to promote our heritage and this is something that appeals especially to younger markets.

The development will come from brands that are moving with the market, ensuring they deliver while at the same time ensuring continuity and offering the support to grow the brand platform in each region.”

We’re flying the flag for British brands because not only are we exceptionally proud of our roots, we know that the reputation for excellence in all aspects of the British design industry is something that should be applauded, and we look forward to ensuring this continues.

“Being a British brand makes me proud that I have given employment to over one thousand people in this industry. Long may it last.

British brands have always had a quirky take on fashion and were able to think outside of the box.

Some of the top designers in the world are British and I aspire to this.

British values go in line with our core values: respect to our customers, clients and staff and also our quality and personal service.

I like the smart look British fashion has cultivated.

The 20s/30s glamour look in particular has often influenced our collection.

Being a British brand helps tremendously with exports – abroad we have a great following. They like the British brand, British name, British design and the Made in Italy stamp.

We’re flying the flag for British brands because British design is world leading and we are proud to be part of this.

RACHEL KELLY, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, BRAINTREE CLOTHING

DERRICK CAMPBELL, CEO, GLOVERALL

“The British retail industry is the best in the world – from the largest companies to our cherished independent boutiques across the UK who are constantly setting the standards for successful retailing. It is inspiring to be a part of the industry and a privilege to be able to work with these businesses.

The industry seems to evolve and be continually defined by innovation, creative thinking, risk taking and hard work. To achieve and be a success in the British retail landscape, I think you have to have a mix of all four.

British brands aren’t afraid to show an eclectic mix of fashion that inspires people all over the world.

British brands create their own fashion worlds rather than be influenced by what is going on in the rest of the industry, I think that fearlessness helps to give British fashion an identity that is recognised all over the world.”

We’re flying the flag for British brands because we’re showing the sector as a whole that you can be a successful, growing business while still being conscious of your impact on the world – it’s a different way of doing business but it can be just as successful.

Gloverall’s commitment to British fabrics and manufacturing has been at the heart of the brand since its inception in the 1950s. Our support of traditional British manufacturing is based on our ability as a nation to create some of the finest products in the world. And, it is this commitment to quality and excellence which continues to fuel Britain’s international reputation as a go-to market for discerning customers.

Most quality-led British design has functionality at its heart. In the fashion sector, it is Britain’s ability to reinterpret functional clothing for the contemporary, trend-led landscape which has kept international demand strong.

The British clothing sector is in fine fettle and at our level of the market it is in particularly robust shape. This is partly because brands like Gloverall have refined their product offerings while communicating their brand stories to new markets across the globe.

We’re flying the flag for British brands because we’re proud not only of our rich heritage and the part which Gloverall has played in British culture through the decades, but more importantly our continuing relevance in the modern landscape of international fashion. uuu

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TOM JOULE , FOUNDER, JOULES

“Joules’ British heritage is something that we are immensely proud of. For us it means being individual, pushing the boundaries creatively while supporting the British economy. The British fashion industry is coming into its own, and is now respected as a vital contributor to the economy and provider of jobs both on home soil and abroad. It’s a really exciting time for the British fashion industry, and we’re thrilled to be part of it.

Being a British label is synonymous with quality.

Being British is almost a stamp of approval in many places and it is our responsibility to ensure that that reputation is upheld and reinforced by our products and communication.

Consumers are becoming more and more discerning, they are looking for transparency, responsibility and innovation. I think that the British fashion sector has really risen to this challenge with new fabrics, policies and designs.

Over the next few years, I think that we will become more aware of what our high street brands are doing for the wider world, whether that is their sourcing, contribution to the local area or their wage policies.”

We’re flying the flag for British brands because we do it the best!

DEBORAH MOORE , CEO, DENTS

“Being British means a great deal to Dents. Our long history and heritage; our connections with British royalty going back through the generations; our involvement in the start of great British institutions from Selfridges to Wolseley cars and British characters from Stirling Moss to Mary Quant; our museum with its fabulous collection of historic gloves and artefacts; maintaining the tradition of real excellence in British manufacturing. These aspects are very important to Dents. British fashion is not only reputable but also tremendously exciting.

Without doubt there are unique values being British. There is still a general image among global businesses that Britain can stand for integrity, honesty, service, politeness, courtesy, quality of goods and being at the cutting edge of new ideas.

There is a huge base of new talent in British fashion right now and as long as the industry doesn’t become too diversified, the future for British fashion is outstanding.”

We’re flying the flag for British brands because it is essential that British brands support British design and work hard to maintain our reputation for excellent design and quality.

VICKY HARVEY-JACKSON, CO-FOUNDER, NOMADS

BEN HAYWOOD, DIRECTOR, LILY & ME

“Being a British label is being a part of a fabulous world of creativity. Quality and Britain go hand in hand.

The British fashion sector has become much more varied over the years. There is a strong youthful feel to British fashion but it is interpreted into the grown up brands as well. British fashion has always been a great world of imagination and adventure. We think this still holds true whilst being practical and very wearable for our lifestyles. British fashion is very good at reinventing itself – reinterpreting much-loved styles of yesteryear into something new is constantly happening. We like to remind ourselves of where we’ve come from, but we are not afraid of mixing it up for today.

The British clothing sector seems to be so fast developing that sometimes we are well ahead of ourselves. It also tends to go in circles with revisits to past, wonderful eras in fashion.”

We’re flying the flag for British brands because we are proud to be a part of this wonderfully creative world. Our heritage of British design is something we value and gives us a connection to the industry, which is intrinsically linked to our love of our homeland.

“British brands come with heritage, a unique Britishness that it is hard to define. British brands are traditional, homely, appealing, loving, fun and sentimental, they leave you with a smile on your face. I see a re-emergence of Britishness, of British manufacturing coming back to the market.

I’d like to think that we are moving away from the mass-market dominance of the high street brands and that the public now want something a little different. This has been core to the development of Lily & Me and will remain so as we grow the brand over the coming years. We design with the British woman in mind, we love beautiful print and are influenced by British artistry and design over the past centuries.

We’re flying the flag for British brands because we are proud of our British heritage and the influence that has on our designs and collections.

ARTHUR RENNIE , MANAGING DIRECTOR, HAWICK KNITWEAR

RICHARD REINHOLD, OWNER, EMRECO

“We feel very proud to be manufacturing in the UK. There has been a textile industry in the Scottish Borders since the late seventeenth century, so we feel honoured and privileged to carry on that mantle.

I think that the design ethic is changing and for the better, where UK manufacturing is now not only associated with stuffy pieces for old people but with designs for a younger demographic or more style-conscious mature consumer.

There are certain values associated with being British – quality of workmanship, tasteful design and product longevity.”

We’re flying the flag for British brands because some consumers simply insist on having the best.

“Being a third generation family business, our heritage is something that we will always be proud of – part of this heritage is our roots as a British label. Every collection we have produced since 1926 has been designed in the UK. British style is renowned for being both innovative and distinctive. This is a combination that we at Emreco strive to achieve every season. I like to think that the British fashion industry is less about trends and more about creative design and timeless style.

There have been some very difficult times in the past decade for the industry as a whole – however I really do feel a change and a resurgence once again, not only for new brands, but also a return to consumers wanting to shop with independents.

For independents, online marketing and social content is something that we actively encourage – rather than seeing the internet and online shopping as a competitor to the independent retailer, it should be seen as something that can bolster small business. “ We’re flying the flag for British brands because Emreco is the embodiment of everything British – excellent design, unfailing quality and longevity.

Email: info@lilyandmeclothing.com Tel: 01566 779477 www.lilyandmeclothing.com

Bermuda Fashion House, 64B Roseville Road, Leeds LS8 5DR Tel: + 44 – 1132 – 459064 Fax: +44 – 1132 – 436547 THIS COMING SEASON WE ARE PROUD TO BE LAUNCHING GERMAN BRAND PASSPORT

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Special agents Being a fashion agent in today’s marketplace is more than just selling a few collections once a season. As most will attest, it is a complex business that combines sales, marketing and a good eye for the next big brand. Isabella Griffiths caught up with some of the UK’s most successful agents to discuss how the agency landscape and their roles are changing.

INNOCENZA Sofia Strazzanti-Lynes, owner — Established: 2008 Brands represented: Gestuz, Ilse Jacobsen Hornbaek, Munthe — How would you define the role of an agent?

A brand ambassador and an extension of the designers’ head office team, working together to deliver shared goals (eg agreed brand positioning and a balanced distribution platform) in line with the global brand strategy, in order to deliver sustainable growth for longevity and profitability for our clients, the brand and us.

How has it changed over the years?

The landscape of the UK market has fundamentally changed. We live in a world obsessed with big brands and big budgets. Driven by this new landscape and the recession, the demands and expectations of an agent have also changed. Typically the role was territory focused, managing 100 customers. Since the recession our role has progressed to national management, where just selling is simply not enough. Strategic planning with a heavier focus on customer service, brand building and creating marketing opportunities falls with us.

How has the relationship with your clients and retailers changed?

Giving our clients an attentive, inspiring, thorough, personalised and fun service has always been at the heart of Innocenza, and this will not change. Without our clients we wouldn’t be where we are today.

What is the key to a successful agent/retailer and agent/brand relationship?

Be inspiring, work hard and with transparency, incorporate strong teamwork with shared goals, and strive to exceed all expectations.

And always do it with passion, energy and lots of laughter.

How do you see the agency landscape developing in the future?

The agency itself has to become a brand so that retailers and brands understand what it stands for. We have invested and continue to invest in developing Innocenza as a brand – which provides us a parameter to work within for business development and diversification.

What is the biggest challenge for fashion agents right now?

The landscape of the market has diminished, especially in womenswear, therefore we need to find brands that stand out and can deliver a point of difference. Brands with a clear identity that can support our retailers with in-store visuals, concept areas and

consumer PR/marketing, helping to create demand. It is an agent’s responsibility to source brands for which we can create a niche.

Agents must consider the entire retail landscape and deliver a strategic distribution plan that is balanced and sustainable.

What’s been your agency’s biggest milestone?

We launched in 2008 at the start of the recession, and traded through a very difficult economic climate. We delivered profit with a team, a sustained client portfolio and brand partners I am extremely proud of.

What are your plans for the future?

We have laid a strong foundation for our brands, so we look forward to further supporting our independent clients here with concept stores and areas, as well as franchise opportunities. uuu

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FOS FASHION MARKETING Chris Foster-Orr, owner — Established: 1999 Brands represented: Repeat, Mac, Milano Italy, Apanage, Airfield, Javier Simorra, Tramontana — How would you define the role of an agent?

Firstly, we are only as good as the brands we represent. Secondly, we are “brand ambassadors” so need to project the appropriate ethos and image of the brand in all aspects, from the showrooms to the service we provide.

How has it changed over the years?

It hasn’t changed much for FOS. I believe we have always been very innovative with our approach and attention to the concept, ethos and image of the brand. We are called FOS Fashion Marketing because our ethos is not just to sell collections, but to also build brands through proactive marketing and imaginative campaigns.

How has the relationship with your clients and retailers changed?

The most dramatic change is that retailers are being forced – because of economic circumstances – to be more ruthless and discerning in their buying. If a brand doesn’t perform immediately, you’re out. On the whole, we have brands that have been successful and thus enjoyed loyal retail partners but, more than ever, the sellthrough has to be strong.

What is the key to a successful agent/retailer and agent/brand relationship?

Trust is the key word, always – trust between the agent and the retailer that the brand is the “real deal” and that whatever brand we have under our roof we really believe in. At FOS we look for longevity when representing a brand; if you are constantly chopping and changing, you lose face with the retailer. We are their “shop window” to the UK and Ireland – we need to portray them to their maximum, and the brand needs to support the agency to the maximum to get the message across.

How do you see the agency landscape developing in the future?

Without a doubt it is a more difficult landscape than it used to be with the demise and lack of new boutique openings. The internet is obviously a huge factor in these negative developments. The truth is I’m not sure how the agency landscape will develop. Brands still need representation and exposure, though, and I think perhaps there will be fewer agents, with brands either going with the bigger agencies or on their own, backed with a standalone retail presence.

What is the biggest challenge for fashion agents right now?

Spiralling costs in Central London and the demise of new boutique openings.

What’s been your agency’s biggest milestone?

We have been active now for 16 years, and have had Mac for the duration, Apanage for 13 years and Repeat for 11 years. Longevity in our representation of brands suggests we are doing something right.

What are your plans for the future?

To continue building the business, and to grow our wholesale levels and exposure. It’s possible we might diversify into retail (no, I haven’t lost my marbles). I would also like to create a “reference shop” to promote our brands in a unique lifestyle concept.

CAROL C COLLECTIONS Carol Capener, co-owner — Established: 2003 Brands represented: Lindi, Foil, Smashed Lemon, Marilu, Tara Vao, S’quise — How would you define the role of an agent?

As agents we need to forward think what our customers need and what they need to buy into, and to try to provide it for them. Selling them the correct collection for their store and guiding them to buy for their shop and not to oversell or push is also key – the customer will always trust if you sell correctly to them and come back in the future.

How has it changed over the years?

I think it has changed a lot over the years, and we are all managing more in our work – but the retailers are also having to do this, too.

Everyone has to work harder as the business in general is tougher.

We as distributors work all year round, so are continually working at our marketing and brand development and looking forward to next season and what we can do to help both our brands and our customers to build sales.

How has the relationship with your clients and retailers changed?

Our relationship has become much more personal with many customers – as times have become tougher, we have had to work more closely. Everyone talks and communicates more about what is happening in the market and appreciates what is going on out there, and we try our best to provide a good service to help our customers whenever we can regarding deliveries and payments etc. We also pride ourselves on being wholesale only, and not supplying the public direct with any of our brands – particularly in an online capacity.

What is the key to a successful agent/retailer and agent/brand relationship?

Trust and honesty.

How do you see the agency landscape developing in the future?

Building relationships with customers, remaining loyal to them and not placing the same brands in the same towns. Also, not offering our brands online but instead working with them to help them build the brands in their stores exclusively. Many of our customers are looking for new brands, and this is because some of their more established labels have flooded the market and no longer remain loyal to them and their custom and geographical area.

What is the biggest challenge for fashion agents right now?

To find new brands that are a good price point for retailers with a unique selling point and that “little bit different”. Price is key at the moment, but still with a good quality, fashionable product and offering more of an item buy and impulse buy rather than co-ordinates.

What’s been your agency’s biggest milestone?

We have continued to grow season on season – a strong, solid progression.

What are your plans for the future?

To continue the success we are currently achieving and building the brands we have, as well as keeping our eye out as always for new and exciting brands to offer our customers.

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LOVE BRANDS LIMITED Hugo Deane, co-owner — Established: 2010 Brands represented: ElleSport, Anonyme, JQ Jeans, Freddy, Almatrichi, Anthropologie, Bunker Footwear, Skunkfunkt, Smash, Circle of Trust, NU Woman, Mighty Purse —

MDA INTERNATIONAL Hannah Jordan, sales director — Established: 1993 Brands represented: Lauren Vidal, Mama b, La Bottega di Brunella, Myrine, Elsewhere, Bellinky, Angels Never Die —

How would you define the role of an agent?

We always try to be very discerning in our brand edit, working principally as distributors, but also as agents for selected brands.

Also, the brands we work with entrust us as an extension of their business – we are dedicated to providing the right product to the right retailers, and helping to maintain and develop the reputation of a label for long-term success.

How has it changed over the years?

Firstly, there are fewer independents and, secondly, the internet has revolutionised fashion retail – it’s turned it on its head from click & collect to pure-play e-tailers opening high-street stores. For us, it means we must ensure we supply our customers with not only a strong branded offer, but also critically above-average margins, and go the extra mile to help with customer in-store promotions etc.

How has the relationship with your clients and retailers changed?

Every day we challenge ourselves with this question – “How can we do better and offer our customers the best customer service possible?”

We have worked hard to be recognised as not only representing reliable successful brands, but also for going the extra mile. Many of our clients have become friends, and it’s incredibly rewarding when we see retailers flourish in this tough economic environment.

What is the key to a successful agent/retailer and agent/brand relationship?

Get to know your customer. By listening and working together in good faith with open and honest dialogue, we can often obtain a successful outcome. Brands need to offer consistency in fit, quality/price and service while always coming up with current, updated designs.

How do you see the agency landscape developing in the future?

I believe there is a good future for independent retailers as long as they strive to provide excellent customer service and unique product offers. There are some truly incredible and innovative retailers out there who are passionate about their business and consumers, and who don’t want to simply follow the cloned high street. Consequently, there will be a need for knowledgeable agents and distributors to bring the fresh and new products to the market.

What’s been your agency’s biggest milestone?

We are incredibly proud of where we are today. What started with an idea five years ago, now spans a multi-million pound business supporting local jobs, and this year we reached our 610th independent customer.

What are your plans for the future?

We have recently added footwear, which has been well received, and we will look to expand into this sector. We have also launched a range of innovative bags, and will be expanding from fashion into the tech and gift sectors with this range. We are also in talks with some great menswear lifestyle brands to complement our contemporary womenswear offer.

How would you define the role of an agent?

The role of the agent is to bridge the gap between the designer and the buyer. But, of course, there’s a lot more to it than that. It’s about representing that collection and constantly adapting the way we work, depending on the brand. It’s our job to establish a strong and loyal customer base, and seek out the very best collections for our buyers.

How has it changed over the years?

The high street just keeps getting stronger and stronger, so it’s incredibly important for us to offer something very different at the right price. The emergence of the internet as an acceptable way of shopping for clothes has had a very powerful effect on consumer attitudes.

How has the relationship with your clients and retailers changed?

I think it’s all about service. We work hard at listening and working closely with our buyers, providing the best service we can all year round. It’s about support and loyalty and going beyond the basics.

Visiting the shops and talking to the owners and buyers are imperative in order to acknowledge the constant changes and attitudes on our high streets.

What is the key to a successful agent/retailer and agent/brand relationship?

The relationships with our brands are key. At MDA we like to promote awareness about the stories behind the brands and the people involved. It’s what will make a collection stand out from others. This, coupled with point of sale material, in-house presentations and round-the-clock support is all part of the MDA service.

How do you see the agency landscape developing in the future?

MDA now manages the distribution for brands, enabling a strong support system for everything. Easy payment plans and credit card facilities to aid cash flow really help our smaller independents. We offer various showroom locations to cover different parts of the country in an effort to make things less expensive and more accessible. We want MDA to be the whole experience; it’s not just about selling.

What is the biggest challenge for fashion agents right now?

Seeking the right collections and the dialogue they create, as everything has to come together; design, fit, quality and delivery etc.

What are your plans for the future?

We want to keep moving and be forward-thinking. We would like to continue nurturing the independents by always offering something fresh and inspiring. Last season we moved showrooms, and were delighted with the response – we want to develop on that and always try and make things easy for our customers. uuu

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WINNIE & ED’S SHOWROOM Jeni Elliff, owner — Established: 2010 Brands represented: Liebeskind Berlin, Harris Wilson, Vintage by Fe, Project AJ117, Tendresses — How would you define the role of an agent?

The key role is communication, while also embracing various roles such as selling, logistics, accounts, customer service and brand marketing, to name but a few.

How has it changed over the years?

The role has changed dramatically, and you cannot just rely on selling during the season and then wait for the next. As an agent, what you achieve out of season is just as important as what you achieve and sell in the next season.

How has the relationship with your clients and retailers changed?

The key to a successful relationship with existing clients is communication, and this has never changed. However, it is harder to maintain; the retailer is juggling so much and is not as available.

In turn, you have to react quickly to their requirements and must offer support and a good service.

What is the key to a successful agent/retailer and agent/brand relationship?

The key to a successful relationship is built on strong partnerships with the brands and retailers – without either it is hard to achieve success. You need strong brands that offer commercial collections, while offering a point of difference, strong margin, deliveries, accounts support, customer service marketing/PR support and opportunities. An agent can be the cheapest way to market for a brand and this is something I never forget. Therefore, personally, it’s about the brand showing appreciation for what you bring, and respecting your contribution and hard work.

How do you see the agency landscape developing in the future?

The internet and social media are consistently driving the market more aggressively. It’s more than being inspired by a magazine editorial; the consumer wants to be inspired by the brand’s lifestyle and those they are associated with. This has filtered through to the retailers who are exposing more of their personal lifestyle to inspire their consumers. I anticipate the agent will have to start driving social media more aggressively, and begin creating their own brand.

What is the biggest challenge for fashion agents right now?

The market is saturated with choice – which means you are only as good as your last season. You cannot take anything for granted and assume the brand that sold this season will do the same again.

Consistent innovation from the brands is key to keep the retailer and consumer engaged.

What’s been your agency’s biggest milestone?

Still being here after five years, as well as working with some lovely brands and, specifically, inspirational retailers.

What are your plans for the future?

I don’t want to be a super-large, unapproachable agency, but I do wish Winnie & Ed’s to be seen as hard-working, approachable, friendly and successful – an agency that brands and retailers are proud to work with.

TATE FASHION Paul Tate, owner — Established: 1963 Brands represented: Izabella, Ella Boo, Daisy May, Tia, Kalisson, Henry Arroway — How would you define the role of an agent?

The role of an agent is more diverse than ever before. An agent has to be involved in all aspects of the business, from helping design the collections, through creating an environment in your showroom where the customer feels happy and wants to invest with you, to ensuring the end product is delivered on time and as they ordered it.

How has it changed over the years?

There is a constant need for second collections and in-season stock, so we want to ensure we can supply the customer product when they need it.

How has the relationship with your clients and retailers changed?

I don’t know if it’s changed – it just develops over time. Customers have always demanded the best out of their agents, and it’s our job to deliver.

What is the key to a successful agent/retailer and agent/brand relationship?

Always look to improve what you do, ensure your brand portfolio evolves with your customers and always be on the look-out for the next big thing.

What has been driving these changes?

Our customers’ need for quality, style and “retailability”, but always at the right price to ensure they can offer the very best to their customers.

How do you see the agency landscape developing in the future?

Like the shops we supply, an agency business is a bespoke service, created to ensure our customers can find and buy exactly what they need to stock their shops in one place. This personal service will always have a place, while there is a discerning buyer out there buying.

What is the biggest challenge for fashion agents right now?

The decline in the number of small independents and the increase in online retailers has meant we as agents must expand our areas, increase our portfolio of brands and expand our reach to try to deal with every level of customer. It’s no longer viable to simply be a small regional agent with a couple of brands.

What’s been your agency’s biggest milestone?

Developing the Izabella brand three seasons ago with some very talented designers and partners in Ireland with GB Agencies and the Nassc fashion group in Turkey. We created the brand when we saw a gap in the market for a well-priced occasionwear brand that could adapt to the customers’ needs, following the fashion trend but without leaving the core classic customer behind. Our customer demanded occasionwear items that would be suitable for any occasion, from a wedding to a party or simply dinner. As an agent, it’s vital we can offer this diversity, and I felt the only way to do this was to collaborate with the designers and manufacture to create the perfect brand ourselves.

What are your plans for the future?

To continue to develop the brands in response to my customers’ needs.

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Short cut With a/w 15 well under way, it’s the perfect time for a mid-season top-up. WWB selects some of the key brands available for in-store delivery now.

NATIVE YOUTH For a/w 15, Native Youth looks to Ida Rolf, the creator of Structural Integration, for inspiration. Combining Rolf’s ideas of alignment and movement, dramatic oversized lines and long line bomber shapes form the pillars of the brand’s outerwear. Feminine pieces contrast dramatically with rebellious textures and offbeat silhouettes found in collarless coats and blazers. Standout pieces blend the boundaries between casual and formal, for example the stepped hem crew and jogger suit in pinstripe jersey. It’s a direction that sees the brand offer its client both diverse design and functionality.

Wholesale price range: £10-£33.50 Turnaround time: 3-5 working days Contact: 07706 096666, www.native-youth.com

NORTHLAND Northland’s a/w 15 range celebrates colour and bold prints, featuring bright colours contrasted with classic shades of cream, black and white. Meanwhile, winter colour combinations such as black & white and red & white create statement pieces, reflecting the autumn vibe. The collection is available exclusively via Suzy D. Wholesale price range: From £14 Turnaround time: 2 weeks Contact: 020 8202 7993, www.suzyd.co.uk

LLUNAA Llunaa continues its offering of contemporary and feminine designs into a/w 15. Collection pieces embody femininity through soft fabrics and draping material. The brand promises innovative design, which is channelled through a combination of traditional manufacturing methods and lightweight fabrics. The new range consists of short and long dresses, knitwear, skirts, two-piece outfits, jackets and coats. The party season plays a key part in the collection, with eye-catching dresses, skirts and tops offered to customers as suggestions for celebration pieces.

Wholesale prices: £20-£60 Turnaround time: 4 weeks Contact: 0161 212 759, www.llunaa.com

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POPPY LUX Poppy Lux’s Winter Fairground collection sees the brand play with the theme of theatrical wonder for a/w 15.

Checked shirt dresses and dark floral tea dresses embody the new-season vibe.

Meanwhile, blouses take on loose cuts and feature slouchy designs, while fitted shift dresses intertwine with bold patterns to encompass the brand’s ethos of promoting both playful and functional garments. Key designs include rose florals and leopard prints.

Wholesale price range: £8-£16.35 Turnaround time: 1 week Contact: 01273 911814, www.sugarhillboutique.com

KIREI The a/w 15 collection from Notting Hill label Kirei is the second range from the brand. Designed with free-spirited and stylish women in mind, the line embodies modern boho fused with luxurious textures. Key features include suede separates, vintage-inspired outerwear and signature peasant pieces such as the embroidered tunic. Bold prints are key, including the mosaic-print chiffon dress and Aztec tapestry coat.

Meanwhile, silk and lace add texture to denim pieces and soft-knit jumpers.

Wholesale prices: From £24 Turnaround time: Immediate Contact: 020 7287 8081, www.kireiclothing.com

BRAT & SUZIE Brat & Suzie’s a/w 15 collection is inspired by Halloween and Christmas. Bold prints and slogans feature across the brand’s range of T-shirts, sweatshirts and tunics. Animal inspiration – such as dogs, reindeer, owls and foxes – are seen across garments throughout the entire line, working together with standout slogans to create statement pieces.

Wholesale prices: £8-£16 Turnaround time: 2-3 working days Contact: 07900 435126, www.bratandsuzie.com

BELLFIELD The a/w 15 range sees Bellfield take a feminine direction. The collection, Frosted Utopia, encapsulates a host of garments which work as layering pieces, from faux-fur fabrics to brushed jacquard knits and printed separates.

Figure-hugging silhouettes feature across the range, playing key roles in both denim and jersey garments.

Embroidery is also used throughout the line, with inspiration taken from hand-drawn floral motifs.

Overall, the collection closes the gap between casual and feminine styles.

Wholesale prices: £3-£25 Turnaround time: Immediate Contact: 020 7033 9546, www.bellfieldclothing.com uuu

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EMILY AND FIN Offering up its trademark range of feminine dresses, Emily and Fin’s a/w 15 collection features a classic mix of styles. Seasonal updates come in the form of longer hems on skirts and dresses, and garments are paired with bold colours to provide the range with an autumn look. The colour palette includes toned-down shades of green and red, while black, charcoal and navy blue are used as staple hues throughout the range.

Wholesale prices: £13-£32 Turnaround time: 3-5 days Contact: 020 7812 9992, www.emilyandfin.co.uk

LOUCHE For a/w 15, Louche introduces a unique range designed in London. Promoting individuality throughout the collection, key pieces are found in the brand’s figure-flattering shapes and feminine design. The range as a whole includes eclectic styles, which often incorporate bold animal prints. Pieces take on a vintage-inspired design, with attention to detail found in feather-lined hems and fabric collars on dresses.

Wholesale prices: From £13 Turnaround time: 5 working days Contact: 020 7091 189, www.louchelondon.com

GUDRUN & GUDRUN Gudrun & Gudrun aims to redefine knitwear with its new collection, incorporating traditional techniques of hand-crafted knitting with contemporary aesthetics. Designs appeal to a diverse audience thanks to the brand’s subtle colour palette. The new collection takes its inspiration from North Atlantic innovation and the energy of the Faroe Islands.

Each piece can be worn as a standalone statement, or combined with other pieces from the collection for a layered knit look. Key this season are knitted dresses with feminine shapes and versatile sweaters perfect for both casual and party wear.

Wholesale prices: ¤40-¤235 Turnaround time: Immediate delivery Contact: 0045 29617077, www.gudrungudrun.com

EUCALYPTUS The Eucalyptus a/w 15 collection presents an offering of classic styles and shapes, combined with bold prints. Bold and exotic flower prints play key roles in the collection, yet delicate and ditsy prints are available in standout colour combinations such as navy and white. Classic brand shapes are seen on figure-flattering full skirts, available in lightweight chiffon and viscose. Other key features include pleats at the bust and shoulders on tulip-shaped dresses.

Wholesale prices: £12-£32 Turnaround time: 3 working days Contact: 020 7703 8251, www.eucalyptusclothing.co.uk

Short Order available www.llunaa.com For more information or to view the AW15 collection please contact Email: info@brandedlab.com Tel: 0161 212 7590

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60 years of success Womenswear indie Renes Lapelle celebrated its 60th anniversary earlier this year and is an institution in its home town of Lancaster and beyond. Rebecca Jackson chats to third generation owner Tiffany Moore about the family legacy she carries on and her ambitious plans for the future of the store.

In its present form Renes Lapelle operates as two halves, but it wasn’t always the case. 60 years has seen the store change from a three-storey shop to one level; there’s been a transformation in product mix and even a change in store name. After renaming from Renes of Lancaster to Renes Lapelle in 1990, it’s clear that over the years crucial decisions had to be made.

Even without taking into consideration the significant social and economic changes which have taken place over the last more than half a century, it’s quite the accomplishment for an indie to stay in the game for six decades. After such a long time of being at the top of its game and as the only independent womenswear store of its kind left still standing in Lancaster today, Renes Lapelle has become an iconic part of Lancaster’s retail landscape. However, tragedy was to hit the family earlier this year in June when previous owner and co-founder of the store, Pamela Moore, passed away.

The shop is now owned by third generation family member and daughter of Pamela’s, Tiffany Moore. As a younger retailer, Moore brings an additional perspective to the business.

“I came in with fresh eyes and a focus on the marketing side of things,” she says. “I wanted to push marketing and promotion as much as possible and started using social media as soon as I came in. Now I am on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram - and

use all three to tell customers about promotions and events instore. It really works with the younger crowd and attracting them to the store.”

Though Moore acknowledges her lead in the marketing and promotion side of the business, she isn’t prepared to take a back seat. Embracing a position which takes into consideration both modern marketing methods and a customer-facing presence in-store, in many respects Moore will follow closely in the footsteps of her predecessors. It’s a role in which she admits to “wearing many different hats”. A role whereby the business is technologically adapted to embrace modern day elements, while concentrating on social media and marketing.

“We’re expanding our social media channels at the moment, and focusing on the digital side of things,” says Moore. “We’re still looking to continue the business as it is in terms of brands and the in-store appearance, but we want to expand digitally. We plan to look at selling from the website in the next few years. We don’t want to be static. We have to move with the times and focus on digital expansion.” Modern changes such as these are widely regarded as integral to a retailer’s survival. Moore’s approach offers a respectful and carefully considered new direction. It’s one which probably wouldn’t have worked had it not been a new generation taking

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“WE’RE EXPANDING OUR SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS AT THE MOMENT AND FOCUSING ON THE DIGITAL SIDE OF THINGS”

over the business.

Moore certainly seems to be embracing her new role.

“Every day is different,” she says. “I could be dealing with new stock if we have a delivery or dealing with re-branding. I could be customer facing if we get a customer through the door who wants to speak with me. Or as has been the case recently, I might be away buying in London or Manchester or further afield.”

Given the huge popularity of the late Pamela Moore - who co-founded the business with her mother Irene in 1955 – taking over the helm of such an iconic store might be considered overwhelming to some, but Tiffany Moore is taking it all in her stride. And although she doesn’t come from a retail background like her mother and grandmother, retail is in her blood.

Switching her fast-paced London life where she worked in banking, Moore moved back to her hometown of Lancaster just over a year ago to be with her family, including mother Pamela.

Since then she’s integrated into all aspects of retail life.

The business is split into two halves, both serving a different customer profile, and offering a mix of contemporary and classic fashion. Renes offers typically more classic styles from brands such as Betty Barclay, NYDJ Jeans, Gerry Weber and Sahara. Meanwhile, Lapelle showcases younger labels and trend-led fashion from brands such as A Postcard from Brighton, French Connection, Ted Baker and Twisted Muse. By splitting the store into two divisions, the retailer is able to aim at many different types of customer, capturing both young fashionistas, as well as the more mature shopper. It’s a strategy that’s worked well for the store and has been key to its continued success and growth.

Logistically, one might assume that it’s difficult for one store to offer such a diverse service. However, Moore is confident that Renes Lapelle can provide for all types of customer. “There’s an alternative for every woman, a way we can cater for everyone,” she says. “It works well because if an

older person comes in looking for clothes and if they’re in the section that’s not really for them we can direct them to the other side.” And maybe this is one of the reasons why the store’s customer base is such a loyal one.

It’s the people of Lancaster - the ones who know where to find the store and what it provides - who have no doubt contributed to its success. “We find, as it’s a small place, everyone knows we’re here and they know what we offer,” says Moore. “There’s no one like us in the town now, so if people need a certain item of clothing they wouldn’t be able to get the same one. Competition is eliminated in that sense.”

The store is positioned in central Lancaster on Common Garden Street. However, the location is not without its problems. “Footfall is lower here,” says Moore. “Parking charges are also high in the town centre. When a customer has to leave suddenly because of the car, it means we lose out on a sale.”

Moore also faced a major problem last year when a drainage problem on the street caused multiple traffic diversions, averting customers away from the store and affecting general footfall.

Even when taking this and multiple recessions into consideration, Renes Lapelle has survived it all, proving its worth as a quality store with family values at its core. “The fact we just celebrated our 60th anniversary says it all,” says Moore.

“We’re the only independent shop doing what we do in Lancaster, and have seen plenty of retailers close down around us.”

It seems that, just as the store is split into two age-opposing categories, the business will move into the future incorporating a two-tiered strategy - both valuable in its own way. Embracing contemporary technology and traditional values like quality customer service, it seems Moore is ready to move forward with a new outlook without forgetting the core values and legacy of the store. After all, there’s a reason Renes Lapelle has outlasted all the rest.

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London Calling WWB reports from the successful debut edition of Scoop London and takes a look at some of the most impressive products on show.

United Arrows from Japan.

UK buyers were also out in force, with visitors from the likes of Bernards, Feathers, Square, Anna, Selfridges and Net-a-Porter in attendance.

“I am delighted with the first edition of Scoop London and in particular the strength and quality of both UK and overseas buyers,” says managing director and founder Karen Radley. “It was our aim to reach out to buyers who are in London during London Fashion Week, and I’m thrilled with the footfall and feedback that we have received for our launch edition. Buyers

KATE SPADE BELLA FREUD

ANGELA CAPUTI

GANOR DOMINIC

TISSA FONTANEDA

INTERTRADE HYPE NOSES

KARINA IK

SILADORA

SPAZIOIF

Last month’s Scoop London, the new seasonal show from the organisers of Scoop, delivered a successful first edition, with over 180 UK and international premium, directional and contemporary designer collections showcasing their ranges at London’s Saatchi Gallery.

The show, which coincided with London Fashion Week, saw an influx of high-profile international buyers from stores including Penelope, La Rinascente, Biffi and Banner from Milan, Colette from Paris, Le Bon Marche, Galeries Lafayette, Spree from Paris, Globus from Switzerland and

S C O O P / 57 wwb-online.co.uk

new accounts,” says Claire Wright, founder of The Soho Furrier.

Claire Spencer-Churchill, co-owner of fashion agency Claret Showroom, which showed a number of its labels, including Mara Hoffman and Madeleine Thompson, agrees. “Scoop London was very positive. There was a strong turnout of buyers and it was exciting to have a writing show on over LFW. We saw great key indie accounts, and there was a presence of international buyers, which was exciting to see, as London has lacked this in the past,” she says. “The timing was excellent. It’s a very clever concept to add in the additional later Scoop. Many of our American brands are not ready for the earlier date, so for us it works well.”

WHYKINI BRUNO ACAMPORA

AKSHA FERNANDEZ

MATT + NAT

ABIGAIL

CONNOCK LONDON LO LA LE PARIS

DELAGE

The next edition of Scoop London takes place on 21-23 February. For more information visit www.scoop-international.com

TODA JOIA JEWELLERY

seem to have embraced the fact that Scoop London complements Scoop with fresh product that they haven’t seen before,” she adds.

The show was praised by buyers and exhibitors alike. “The Scoop London dates work well for me, as I am more ready now to do my buying than in August. The show has an excellent selection of collections,” says Suzanne Burstein, owner of Feathers in London. This was mirrored by Adam Jagger, retail director at Lambert’s Yard in Leeds. “Scoop London and LFW complemented each other well. It’s good to have them side by side. There’s more choice with the two shows offering very different things.”

Exhibitors, meanwhile, were impressed with the footfall and quality of buyers. “Scoop London was very successful for us. We had a fabulous reaction from high profile buyers and gained a lot of interest from international stores, especially from Europe. We wrote lots of orders and opened many

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Project runway Victoria Jackson takes a look at the key trends for s/s 16 to emerge from London Fashion Week, from military influences through to acidic tones and dramatic styling.

DAKS

BELSTAFF

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

SIMONE ROCHA

Military inspired separates hit the runway this season, with patch pockets, khaki palettes and contemporary camouflage patterns featuring throughout. Despite the trend being typically masculine, garments remained feminine with waist-cinching silhouettes and soft-to-the-touch fabrications. Mesh and contrasting silk panels added interest, while suede and fine knits gave the trend a premium finish.

JASPER CONRAN

MODERN MILITARY

Sheer fabric was one of the more popular trends at London Fashion Week. Chiffon, tuille and silk organzas are set to be key for s/s 16, as designers sent models down the runway in a variety of skin-baring designs. From risqué sheer panel skirts, through to the slightly more demure chiffon off-the-shoulder peasant dresses, it’s a trend that’s sure to translate down to the high street next summer.

ASHISH

DAVID KOMA

ISSA

MOTHER OF PEARL

SIMONE ROCHA

SHEER BLISS

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Outerwear is given an 80s twist this season, as oversized tuxedo jackets and lounge jackets made their way down the catwalk, overshadowing the likes of the mac, cape and bomber. As power dressing met cocktail hour, mannish satin trimmed blazers were thrown casually over delicate fabrics and midi skirts. Trouser suits, meanwhile, were prevalent throughout, with a mix of tapered ankle grazers and looser wide-legged silhouettes.

AMANDA WAKELEY

ANTONIO BERARDI

CHRISTOPHER KANE

DAKS

ROKSANDA

BLAZER APPEAL

CHRISTOPHER KANE

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

FYODOR GOLAN

HOLLY FULTON

While acid tones are usually a statement in themselves, designers added even more visual interest this season by throwing in a mix of unusual fabrications, appliquĂŠs and prints. A madcap combination of fuchsia pink and saturated shades of lilac were teamed with bolder coral and orange hues, while neon lime was used in contrasting highlights. Detailing includes plastic panels, contrasting fabrics and metallic finishes.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

ON ACID

ORLA KIELY

BURBERRY

ERDEM

NATASHA ZINK

ANTONIO BERARDI

DARK ROMANCE In stark contrast to the pastels and dainty meadow prints of summer, fashion took a more sombre narrative for s/s 16. Dramatic floor-length gowns came in a mixture of high-neck styles in rich velvets and sheer heavy floral prints. Capes sashayed down the catwalk in a series of deep hues, while finishes such as lace scallop edging, lace ties and feminine ruffles added a romantic streak to the theatrical spring trend.

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Retailer spotlight: INDIE HOSTS CHARITY FUNDRAISER BOB BOUTIQUE COMES TO CARNABY BOB boutique opened its doors in Carnaby’s Newburgh Quarter on 19 September, for three weeks of trading in the iconic London shopping destination. The pop-up vintage fashion boutique, owned by TV personality Dawn O’Porter, showcased an exclusive curation of vintage pieces. O’Porter says, “After the success of my last pop-up shop in Seven Dials, I am thrilled to be hosting another in such an exciting location. Carnaby Street was the epicentre of global fashion back in the 60s, so I really can’t think of anywhere more perfect for BOB.”

Cuckoo Clothing hosted its annual charity Apple Day earlier this month. The event, which celebrates all things apple, was held in the grounds of the Cambridge store and included a day of fundraising events. Customers, guests and other retailers based in the area gathered to enjoy sporting events such as falconry, archery and a hedge-laying competition. Meanwhile, visitors could enjoy refreshments at the juice and cider tent – and could even have a go at juicing their own.

Approximately £5,000 was raised in total, with proceeds going to The Sick Children’s Trust.

Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry

Web watch:

WWW. CRICKET-FASHION.COM

Founded in 1991, Cricket is considered one of the leading womenswear indie boutiques in the UK. The bricks-and-mortar store in Liverpool offers a diverse mix of brands that translates over to the website. Featuring brands such as Matthew Williamson, J Brand and Jimmy Choo, customers can shop the store’s extensive list of big-name brands online. The website also offers a select list of kidswear brands and an option to shop for gifts. Visitors can browse the retailer’s online magazine, which features trend reports and photo shoots. The shoots include an interactive element, whereby the customer can shop the look.

CHARLOTTE MANBY Owner of Room 7, Roundhay, Leeds

What is your current bestseller in-store?

We have been stockists of Dolce & Gabbana for 25 years and the brand has a very loyal following. Joseph has thrived over the last few years; it offers fabulous fashion and very wearable pieces. Queene and Belle is the essence of understated luxury, a highly individual collection of specially designed pieces.

How have you found trading over the last month?

Being in high-end fashion, our seasons start very early. Our customers mostly buy a season ahead so that they don’t miss out. When buying we keep our quantities tight, making sure the goods remain exclusive.

What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store?

We are constantly on the lookout for new designer labels and variety for our customers both in style and price. We are also very lucky that we have a very dedicated and enthusiastic team, who have been with us for many years.

What’s on your agenda for the coming month?

We recently held an exclusive fashion show to give something back to our loyal customers who have supported us over the 34 years we have been in business. We’ll be continuing celebrations this season with new stock.

R E T A I L T A L K / 61 wwb-online.co.uk

Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears

HARRODS MARKS SHOE ANNIVERSARY

TO CELEBRATE THE FIRST ANNIVERSARY OF HARRODS SHOE HEAVEN, HARRODS SHOWCASED 20 LIMITED EDITION DESIGNS IN-STORE LAST MONTH. THE RETAILER UNVEILED THE NEW COLLECTION CATCH ME IF YOU CAN ON THE FIFTH FLOOR OF ITS KNIGHTSBRIDGE STORE. KEY DESIGNERS FEATURING IN THE NEW COLLECTION OF EMBELLISHED TRAINERS INCLUDE THE LIKES OF JIMMY CHOO, GIVENCHY AND CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. “FOLLOWING ON FROM LAST YEAR’S HIGHLY SUCCESSFUL SILVER LININGS RANGE, CATCH ME IF YOU CAN BRINGS A SENSE OF GENUINE LUXURY TO WHAT WERE ONCE STREETWEAR ESSENTIALS, BUT ARE NOW PART OF EVERYONE’S WARDROBE,” SAYS HELEN DAVID, FASHION DIRECTOR AT HARRODS.

CELEBRATING 35 YEARS IN BUSINESS Suffolk indie Angela Fashions celebrated its 35th anniversary with an in-store event last month. Guests flocked to the famous store in the village of Long Melford to enjoy a fashion catwalk featuring designs by German brand Basler, take part in a coveted prize draw with a chance to win branded goodies – and of course congratulate owner Angela Wybrew (pictured with guest) on the fantastic achievement.

REBECCA COCKIN

owner of Recoco Clothing, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire “I feel the industry as a whole has forgotten about real women, who we are and how we feel.

Style shouldn’t be portrayed as a way to look skinny but as how you feel in what you wear.

When I first started out we had a small mannequin and most of my clothing was very small and made my customers feel horrid. I have since stopped using this; when we do our next shoot it will be with real women. The average customer of mine is a size 12/14. If you see a size six model wearing size six clothing, you expect it to look the same on you. When you try the garments on and it doesn’t look like it did on the model, it’s a horrible feeling. This annoys me.

No one should ever feel like this, and it is possible to avoid.”

Q&A:

If you started out in retail again, what would you do differently?

JEN GARRITY

LIZ TRENDLE

DANIELLE ROGERS-CLARK

JANINE O’KEEFE

Co-owner, Coco Marie, Amersham, Buckinghamshire

Owner, The Gate Boutique, Guildford

Owner, O’Keefe Fashion, East Molesey, Surrey

“I’d listen to my husband’s advice earlier and start up the online side of our business sooner. I would have started our social media sites earlier and maybe done a blogging course to get my head around how much technology is now shaping our industry.”

“I would have more courage in my convictions. I’d be more confident and trust my gut feeling rather than listen to other people; after all, it’s my risk.”

Owner, Believe in Boutique, Buckhurst Hill, Essex

“I think we are all guilty of over-buying in the beginning. If I started out in retail again now I would be much more conscious of budgets and stock levels. However, learning from mistakes has definitely made me a much better buyer.”

“I would take more time to consider certain decisions. I’d hold back on deciding to open more bricks-and-mortar stores at the same time as when the online phenomenon took off.”

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E-tail Clinic

Web chat:

Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: Selling across borders – the key to global growth In days gone by, shopping for clothes used to be a straightforward experience. You browsed for items at your favourite shops and made your purchase in-store. So long as retailers could take cash and card payments in-store, they could reliably ensure they were capturing the vast share of their potential market.

In recent years, however, all that has changed. With the proliferation of new technologies such as smartphones and tablets, consumers have access to multiple ways of browsing and purchasing.

As shopping moves towards a more integrated online and offline retail experience, retailers are all racing to capitalise on the opportunity to increase sales, by providing payment options across multiple consumer channels.

However, the businesses that truly stand to take advantage of these changing market dynamics are those that look beyond the confines of their national borders. So what steps must they take to place themselves in pole position?

PAYMENT METHODS MAPPING Firstly, retailers should carry out a payment methods mapping exercise and establish which countries and regions they want to target. A good example is Wiggle, a UK-based online retailer for sporting goods and clothing that has fully localised its sites depending on the specific needs of the target markets. Wiggle has adapted all aspects of its payment pages including domain, text, language options, as well as the relevant payment options to match the requirements of consumers in 14 countries. Taking such a localised approach is one of the smartest strategies for expanding e-commerce across borders, and one that can give the greatest possible chance of increased conversion rates.

COLLECT SERVICES Secondly, retailers should aim to work with payment service providers (PSP) that offer collect services on local and international payment methods via a single contract, making the process far easier. A single contract enables retailers to expand quickly and to accept all kinds of payment methods. Without this service, merchants would need to open their own bank account and legal entities internationally before they can start selling. With Ingenico’s collect services, they avoid this administrative burden, and can get on with the business of selling.

SPECIALIST INSIGHT It is estimated that 60 per cent of all online cross-border transactions are not completed because merchant traders do not provide adequate payment methods to international buyers. Retailers should choose a PSP that provides international expansion consultancy and specialist knowledge on local and international payment methods. This process of localisation is, unquestionably, an essential component for cross-border e-commerce success.

The future for online fashion retail is undeniably bright. As it becomes easier to market and sell across borders, those who move quickest are likely to thrive. The whole world has become the marketplace, and retailers must find a way to adapt and evolve their business to continue to engage with digitally empowered, global consumers.

Julian Wallis is head of sales UK & Ireland, Ingenico Payment Services

DEBRA MCCANN

Owner, The Mercantile London E1 www.themercantilelondon.com When did you launch your website, and is it transactional?

We launched the transactional site two years ago.

Previously we had a non-transactional site, which included basic information about the store.

What percentage of your business does your site constitute?

It constitutes 25 per cent of our business.

Are you selling the same stock online as in-store?

We try to give a fair representation of the product range on the site. Ultimately we want customers to come to the store where we have a greater depth of options.

Is your e-commerce arm growing, and what is driving this growth?

Yes. We have a good presence online with a lot of brands and products. We work extremely hard as a small business with our social media; the Spitalfields area is increasing in footfall and the economy is more buoyant.

What are your plans for the site, and how would you like it to develop?

We curate the site as a gallery for customers to view products showcased in and around the store, with the aim to bring customers to the store. Any orders placed on the site are a bonus, and that’s the way we’ve viewed it from the get go. We don’t have a budget for Google Ads so growth has happened more organically, and this is how I would like to see future growth.

3 out of 5

57%

visits to retail sites are now via mobile device

Source: IMRG

(*Source: IMRG)

26%

Basket creation via mobile devices is up

Source: Demandware Shopping Index

year on year

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Aigle 0160 881 3860 www.aigle.com Bellfield 020 7033 9546 www.bellfieldclothing.com Braintree Clothing 020 7671 173 www.braintreeclothing.com Brat & Suzie 07900 435126 www.bratandsuzie.com Carmakoma 0045 72302024 www.carmakoma.com City Goddess 020 8597 2744 www.citygoddess.co.uk Dents 01985 212291 www.dents.co.uk Elena Miro 020 7580 5075 www.elenamiro.com Elvi 0845 524 0260 www.elvi.co.uk Emily and Fin 020 7812 9992 www.emilyandfin.co.uk Emreco 0141 424 1914 www.tradeatemreco.co.uk Eucalyptus 020 7703 8251 www.eucalyptusclothing.co.uk Gloverall 0160 481 2812 www.gloverall.com Gudrun & Gudrun 0045 29617077 www.gudrungudrun.com Hawick Knitwear 01450 363100 www.hawickknitwear.com James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net Junarose 0045 99423357 www.bestseller.com Kirei 020 7287 8081 www.kireiclothing.com Lands’ End 020 7384 6111 www.landsend.com Lavish Alice 0844 3180131 www.lavishalice.com Lily & Me 01566 779477 www.amariuk.com Little Mistress 020 3617 7668 www.little-mistress.com Llunaa 0161 212 759 www.llunaa.com Louche 020 709 1189 www.louchelondon.com Marble 0141 882 6743 www.marblefashions.co.uk Marina Rinaldi www.marinarinaldi.com Native Youth 07706 096666 www.native-youth.com Nobis 020 7404 8264 www.nobis.ca Nomads 01566 777338 www.nomadsclothing.com Northland 020 8202 7993 www.suzyd.co.uk People Tree 020 7042 8920 www.peopletree.co.uk Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com Poppy Lux 01273 911814 www.sugarhillboutique.com Sugarhill boutique 01273 911814 www.sugarhillboutique.com White Stuff 020 7091 8558 www.whitestuff.com

Next issue SHOW TIME THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO TRADE SHOW SEASON A/W 16 DOUBLE DENIM SPOTLIGHT ON THE JEANS SECTOR AND THE KEY PLAYERS WHAT A LIBERTY DISCOVERING THE APPEAL OF THE ICONIC PRINTS

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The Last Word with...

Fiona Marston Creative director, Parka London What are the top three things on your bucket list?

My husband and I are planning a trip to Vietnam for our honeymoon, so I hope to tick one off soon. Also on my list is going travelling for six months in one go and enjoying nature and the sunrises and sunsets – it’s something I really miss living in London. I also want to build something I’m proud of and leave something in the world that lingers and that people connect with. I hope I’m doing that with Parka London.

What’s your favourite tipple?

Sake – I like the process of warming it and serving it in the cute cups, and there are always the raised glasses that bring good cheer before you drink. It feels special.

Name: Fiona Marston Job title: Founder and creative director, Parka London From: Auckland, New Zealand Lives: London

What’s your happiest childhood memory?

I grew up with summers swimming by a lake. A big highlight in my childhood, which I still remember vividly, is getting up on skis behind the boat for the first time and doing a whole loop without falling off when I was six years old. I think it was the first time I ever found out what adrenaline felt like, and I was pretty much nagging my dad to do it again and again, all day.

What could you cope better with, no internet or no mobile phone for the day?

They’re the same thing really, as I do a lot internet messaging from my phone. I would probably relax a little without the phone and enjoying just getting from A to B and not posting the next Instagram and checking my three different emails etc.

Would you rather rewind life or pause it?

Neither, but I’d focus on freeing up time to spend with the people closest to me. Time goes so fast when you have so many deadlines on a cycle – it’s hard to focus on the “now” and enjoy it.

What’s your guilty pleasure?

This is weird, but I have around 30 nail polishes. I find it relaxing to pour a glass of wine and do my nails in the evening – probably because it means I can’t pick up my phone or do anything for at least half an hour.

Which song sums you up?

Human Behaviour by Bjork. Humans are so complex, it’s exhausting. We are such intelligent creatures, and sometimes we need to remember the simple things in life. This song reminds me to stop and think. It’s all just human behaviour (mostly mine) that is causing life to go so fast.

What achievement are you most proud of?

Moving to the UK 10 years ago. I arrived with a one-year open-return ticket, a one-week offer to stay on a friend’s sofa, and that’s about it. I almost had to go back to New Zealand due to money at the beginning. I worked hard to get a job in the industry and never dreamt I would end up creating and directing a clothing brand that I truly believe in.

What’s the naughtiest thing you’ve ever done?

That’s a hard question, as I definitely had fun as a teenager.

Taking the car on massive road trips to the beach with my friends when I only had my learners is not something I’d recommend to my future kids.

If you hadn’t created Parka London, what would you be doing?

I love making things. My dad is a builder, and I love the smell of freshly cut sawdust in his workshop. So I could have quite possibly been a furniture designer or maker.