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0=010 F8=4B es, the enigmatic name sounds vaguely like an ancient Egyptian god or an enlightened entity from esoteric Buddhism— like a jackal-headed bodhisattva smiling upon a tantric underworld. Hey, that would be cool—but Anaba is named for the Anabatic wind, a cool breeze that ows from the San Pablo Bay and gets hotter as it rises with the Sonoma hills. Anaba is the evocative replacement for Castle Vineyards & Winery, which was acquired by the Sweazey family in 2006.

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It’s a mystery why they packed up and left that hot location just off the Sonoma Plaza. The new joint is also a high-trafďŹ c location, but at the busy intersection of highways 116 and 121, where thousands of motorists daily pit what wits they can muster against the ultimate challenge: a four-way stop. A run-down old farm house has been renovated into a nice, modestly decorated tasting room, although the back of the bar is mirrored and my preference is for a more pleasing view than myself and other winetasters. Anaba Wines advertise themselves as RhĂ´ne specialists, which is somewhat exciting, but current releases do not include the Grenache and Syrah of Castle days, which lessens the thrill; Anaba also squishes those Burgundian grapes known as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 2007 Coriol Sonoma Valley White ($28) opens with a Viognier-like bouquet of owers and a hail of white raisins, but the body is all MarsanneRoussanne, heavy and languid, thick with apricot nectar and raisins; while slightly syrupy in body, it’s not actually sweet. Hinting at raspberries and white pepper, the 2006 Coriol Sonoma Valley Red ($28) is more winning for its warming, soft palate than for big fruit besides ephemeral hickory-smoked dried apples and raspberries. The complex, warm earthiness makes sense: the RhĂ´ne varietal grapes come from a hot pocket in southern Sonoma Valley and a cool stretch at the north. Precious few cases of the 2008 Sonoma RosĂŠ ($18) were made, but a taste of fresh watermelon, raspberry and Greek yogurt can be arranged if one asks extra nicelike. With the wind in my heart and the wine in my head, I retraced my steps to the gravel parking lot out back, and stopped short. There it was, the ďŹ ne southern Sonoma view of verdant vineyards climbing the skirts of blond-domed hills, framed by palm trees swaying in the anabatic wind. And it was good. Bargain bottle alert: Currently there’s an absolute ďŹ re sale on the remaining Castle wines. For information go to www.castlevineyards.com. Anaba Wines, 60 Bonneau Road (at Arnold Drive), Sonoma. Open daily, 10:30am to 5pm. Tasting fee $10. 707.996.4188.

James Knight

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