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C>?4; F8=4AH his well-appointed tasting room has a long bar, tables, fancy decanters and a bank of casement windows open to the breeze and the brisk, small-town street life just off of Healdsburg Plaza. Turning to appreciate the view, we see happily munching lunchers across the street, on the Oakville Grocery patio. Hang on a second—this is inexplicably and all of a sudden nettlesome to me. Since it does not ďŹ nd itself, at the moment, in Napa Valley’s Oakville, how does the store warrant its appellation? Oy, next time you turn around, they’ll be selling designer handbags on Healdsburg Avenue!

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Another county-line interloper, Topel hails from Hopland, but has sensibly come down off Duncan Peak to enjoy Healdsburg’s higher foot trafďŹ c. Grapes are grown at the mountain estate, where Mark and Donnis Topel handcraft a few thousand cases annually. In his spare time, Mark Topel picks up extra cash as a criminal defense attorney and partner in a nationwide law ďŹ rm. Wines are distributed nationally but sparingly, mostly at restaurants located nearby the aforementioned law ofďŹ ces. Like buttercream over lime, the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc “Graceâ€? ($18) is pleasingly soft but has zest. The 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve, “Serendipityâ€? ($45), vinted down in Monterey County, hints at mint and eucalyptus, with chocolate-cordial, porty avors, while ďŹ nishing neither heavy nor sweet. The Syrah fails to interest, but avors pick up with the estate Cabernet and Bordeaux blends: cedar, cigar box, chocolate aromas lead in the 2005 Meritage ($32), with berries, chicory and brown spice. The next several shared remarkably similar spice characteristics, due no doubt, to the ďŹ ne, toasty oak barrels employed. Darn good stuff. Makes one hungry for a portobello mushroom focaccia sandwich. Topel Winery, 125 Matheson St., across from Oakville Grocery. Open daily 11am–7pm. Tasting fees $5–$12. 707.433.4116. James Knight

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Healdsburg is home to a hidden Prohibition-style wine bar slated to open March 10 that naturally enough calls itself the Speakeasy. The lovechild of Richard and Kae Rosenberg, the Speakeasy is an homage to Richard’s grandfather’s tales of clandestine taverns of yore. Featuring such small-lot boutique vintners as William Seylem, Dellinger and George Wine, the Speakeasy will also feature beers crafted after the manner popular during the Jazz Age and Great Depression. Visitors enter through an antique phone booth strategically placed near Zin Restaurant at the corner of Healdsburg Avenue and North Street. 707.473.9463. (Tell ’em the Boho sent ya.)

B0E>A B>=><0 Now in its 20th year, Savor Sonoma Valley goes yowza for food and wine pairings this year, matching wineries with area chefs for its two-day slate of 22 Sonoma Valley wineries, all of which will be “stealing� from barrels to give visitors a unique look at upcoming vintages. A partial list of the comestible pairings includes Enkidu with Sheana Davis of the Epicurean Connection, Eric Ross with the Blue Grass Bar & Grill, Family Wineries of Kenwood with Luca Citti of Cafe Citti, both Imagery and Landmark featuring food from the Girl & the Fig, and so on, making this a great way to taste wine straight from the barrels with a delicious accompaniment. Savor Sonoma Valley, Saturday–Sunday, March 20–21, 11am to 4pm. $55 for the weekend; $40, Sunday only. 866.794.9463. Gretchen Giles

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