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5A8CI D=34A6A>D=3 F8=4AH henever I’ve glanced at Fritz’s wine label over the past few years, I always think of dinosaurs. Upon closer inspection, the label does not depict cretaceousera creatures, hanging out under some ancient tree, but perhaps this error is a fanciful masking of what it really depicts, something more terrifying to a grape grower than terrible lizards: a ock of wild turkeys, decimating a poor old Zinfandel vine. When I asked our guy at Fritz about the label, he said, well, we have a lot of wild turkeys up here, and you know . . . Could be a kind of totem?

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The last time I visited Fritz Underground Winery, it was just Fritz. The winery was still underground, to be sure, as evidenced by the historical photos of the building process (which can be hair-dated to approximately the late 1970s-early ’80s era) behind the tasting room bar. But it was just as warm, from the cozy wood stove in the corner on a winter’s day as it was on this hot, end-of-summer afternoon. The tasting room is a little less than underground. But that made the ďŹ rst offering a welcome refreshment to take out to a patio table, overlooking the quiet hill country north of Dry Creek Valley. The 2008 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($18) is one of the leanest SBs this side of Sancerre, with racy acidity and grapefruit-lime avors and notes of white fruit, underripe pear.

Located at 308 B Center Street, Healdsburg 707-433-2822. Open 7 days a week, 11am - 6pm

We are now offering a public tour of our historic winemaking facility! Please call the tasting room at 1-866-557-4970 to reserve this unforgettable experience! $10 per person tour and tasting only $35 tour, gourmet boxed lunch, and wine tasting Asti Winery 26150 Asti Post Office Road Cloverdale, CA Tours available 7 days a week 10 am - 5pm Š2009 Cellar No. 8, Napa, CA | www.CellarNo8.com

Quite to the contrary, the very ripe 2006 Estate Zinfandel’s ($25) brambly avors were accented with ethyl acetate and hot, woody tannin; but on account of the oppressive heat of the day, I wouldn’t write it off for a winter’s tasting. The 2006 Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) was simply a nice, light-bodied and balanced claret. The Fritz family has also taken on responsibilities for Lost Canyon Winery, formerly of Oakland. None of Lost Canyon’s well-liked, plush Syrahs were on hand, but the 2006 RRV Pinot Noir, Widdoes Vineyard ($42) was notable for its high note of spicy, cinnamic acid. The 2007 Late Harvest Zinfandel ($25) was predictably delicious, as per the style. Sweet, dark fruit with an emphasis on pure grape avor, this is the after-dinner nectar that nature affords us at the end of the harvest, made from those grapes that escaped the gizzards of the turkey hordes. Fritz Underground Winery, 24691 Dutcher Creek Road, Cloverdale. Open daily, 10:30am to 4:30pm. $5 fee. 707.894.3389.

James Knight

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The Souverain Tasting Room on the square in Healdsburg invites you to stop by and enjoy our Harvest Special, 25% off on a purchase of 4 or more wines.

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THE BOHEMIAN

10.07.09-10.13.09

27

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