North bay Bohemian
The North Bay Bohemian Serving Sonoma, Napa, and Marin Counties.
02 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN Performances09 Enrich. Educate. Entertain. Connecting our Community through the Arts For tickets call 707.546.3600 (noon-6pm Tue-Sat) Online wellsfargocenterarts.org Hwy 101 to River Road, Santa Rosa � Your Community Non-Profit Arts Center for 27 years Wells Fargo Center for the Arts gratefully acknowledges generous support from WFCA_BOH_FULL_041509.indd 1 THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 4/16/09 12:51:04 PM 03 This could be the start of a beautiful friendship. TM Buy a BlackBerry� Storm, and get any BlackBerry Smartphone Free! Each phone requires new 2-yr. activation on voice plan with email feature, or email plan. While supplies last. BlackBerry 8830 World Edition BlackBerry CurveTM BlackBerry PearlTM NEW! BlackBerry Storm Verizon Wireless 3G Exclusive The world's first touch screen BlackBerry $ 19999 Call 1.800.2.JOIN.IN Call 1.800.2. JOIN.IN Act ation fee/line: $35. Activation fe tiv ee/line: Shop 24/7 ve onwireless.co Shop verizonwireless.com eriz om Visit any store Visit any store n IMPORTANT CONSUMER INFORMATION: Subject to Customer Agmt,, Calling Plan, rebate form & credit approval.. Up to $175 early termination fee/line & other charges & $1.99/MB (incl.. Mobile Web ads).. Offers and coverage,, varying by service,, not available everywhere.. Rebate debit card takes up to 6 IMPORTANT CONSUMER INFORMATION: Subjject to Customer Agmt Calling A AT rebate form credit approval to r termination fee/line charges (incl Web Offers coverage varying by service availab everywhere Rebate ble card takes to weeks and expires iin 12 months. BlackBerry, RIM, Research IIn Motion, SureType� and related trademarks,, names and llogos are the property of Research IIn Motion Limited and are registered and/or used iin the U.S. and countries around the world. Network details and coverage maps at verizonwireless.com. weeks and expires n 12 months. BlackBerry, RIM, Research n Motion, SureType� and related trademarks names and ogos are the property of Research n Motion Limited and are registered and/or used n the U.S. and countries around the world. Network details and coverage maps at verizonwireless.com. In CA Sales tax based on full retail price of phone. Shipping charges may apply. �2008 TM & � 2008 Activision Publishing, Inc. TM & � 2008 Hands-On M , Inc. All rights reserved. � 2009 Verizon Wirele . CA: Sales retail price phone. charges may apply. TM Hands-On Mobile Inc. All rights reserved. Mobile, Verizon Wireless. A: e 8 Activision Publishing, Inc. TM ess 77916 04 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 05 We are truly sorry that your reporter had to endure verbal abuse by the Bohemian Club's PR man (Letters, April 15). Even more abusive are the falsehoods they spread. The proposed logging plan does indeed permit cutting old growth, even with the so-called conservation easement. It also seems apparent that a judge will have to explain the law regarding eligibility for NTMPs to CDF. The law states that the ownership cannot exceed 2,500 acres. It does not say more than 2,500 acres of timberland. Past lawsuits have demonstrated that CDF is legally challenged. The Club's claims about reducing fire danger are also bogus. You can cut brush species without a logging plan. Removing the large conifers, especially the large redwoods which resist fire, will open the stand to light and encourage growth of fire-prone species. Their plan will increase, not decrease, fire danger. Contrary to statements in Bohemian Club president Jay Mancini's letter, the permit being applied for runs in perpetuity with no further opportunity for revision. Forty percent of the larger conifers will be cut within the first 20 years alone. Not all old growth trees have been identified or protected. The Club has not worked "diligently" with the agencies. It actually hid the existence of significant stands of old growth on the property until forced to disclose them by the agencies. Thinning the conifers will increase fire dangers and make living near the Grove more dangerous. The Bohemian Club does not need a perpetual logging permit to thin tanoaks, a task supported by all parties. The Bohemian Club could easily pay for necessary hardwood thinning by charging its wealthy members a few dollars per month. For accurate information to refute Bohemian Club flack Sam Singer and president Jay Mancini's inaccurate statements, please visit: http:// savebohemiangrove.org. While we certainly believe in free speech, we do not appreciate the recent article about Backdoor Disc and Tape ("One Big Holiday," April 15). We are not a corporate monster that sucks the lifeblood out of the local community, but rather four hardcore music junkies--old record guys, if you will--who happen to have purchased Backdoor as well as other indie stores elsewhere in the country from owners who were about to close them forever. In our eyes, we saved these stores, preserved the culture and invested in diversity, just like every other right-thinking indie retailer in America who recognizes that the times are in fact changing. I am actually one of the founders of Record Store Day, along with the indie coalitions and Newberry Comics in Boston. Regarding the "transplant" from Alabama who was made manager, he also happens to have worked in some of the best indie stores in the country and, like any other business owners, we strive to improve our stores, and, yes, that sometimes comes with personnel changes. Gabe Meline responds: Thanks for writing. As I said in the article, Backdoor remains an asset to the area, carrying local CDs and partnering with local radio, with a staff that's friendly and qualified. For these reasons, and because I've been shopping there since 1988, I carefully chose to include it in a roundup of locally owned stores while noting that it is not, as the Record Store Day site defines a "participating store," at least 70 percent owned in the state of operation. There's no question Backdoor changed when it was sold to a national chain, but it didn't become any less a thread in the fabric of the local community. Thank you for the informative article on Bedrock Music in San Rafael. It will help raise community awareness of the nonprofit work we do with Four Winds West. None of this could be accomplished without the hard work and dedication of store employees Dawn Hernandez and Justin Drabek, who also provide vital training for our interns here at Bedrock Music. While we're at it, please know that Vinyl Planet is best found at 112 Washington St., Petaluma. 06 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN SEASON OPENING CELEBRATION WARM S PRINGS R ESORT MORTON'S Saturday, May 2 10am�6pm $5 Discount for admission, opening weekend only SUMMER SCHEDULE May: Open weekends June�July�August: Open Tues�Sun & Memorial Day Weekend Closed Mondays Family Fun... in the Sun for over 100 years! Book Your Parties and Corporate Events Now! Mineral Swimming Pools � Sign Up for Swimming lessons BBQ & PICNIC SITES � ARCADE � CAFE 707-833-5511 � 1651 Warm Springs Road, Glen Ellen, CA 95442 Visit our new website www.mortonwarmsprings.com for hours, rates & info THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 07 26TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL All car racks in 20to 30% OFF! All Clothing * *Discount applies to in-stock jerseys, jackets, shorts, and tights not already on sale at a deeper discount. 25% FF! 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The species exploded in number, and by the 1930s an estimated 12 million of the anadramous fish lived along the West Coast. But this winter, the striped bass, which has been a favored game fish for decades, came under attack. Assembly Bill 1253, introduced March 2 by Assemblywoman Jean Fuller, R-Bakersfield, aims to declassify the species as a recognized game fish in California. Her bill would delete "striped bass" from state documents, including the Department of Fish and Game code, with the intention that the species, if denied all protective fisheries regulations, might vanish from state waters. Fuller blames striped bass as being one of the primary causes of the Sacramento River Chinook salmon fishery collapse, as well as the dwindling of the much-discussed Delta smelt. Her bill is scheduled for review by the Committee on Water, Parks and Wildlife on April 28 in Sacramento. Some biologists and sport fishermen believe that AB 1253 is nothing but a diversionary tactic designed to draw attention away from San Joaquin Valley water users, whom many conservationists blame as the chief cause of environmental ruin in the Delta. These same critics deny that "stripers" constitute the threat to native fishes that Fuller says they do. A report published in May 2008 in the Environmental Biology of Fish analyzed the gut contents of striped bass collected between 1963 and 2003. The authors, biologists Matt Nobriga and Fred Feyrer, reported that Chinook salmon never made up more than 1 percent of fishes found in the bellies of dissected striped bass. Dr. David Ostrach, a UC Davis research scientist, calls the idea of eliminating a single predator from a complex ecosystem with the supposed hope of assisting the recovery of collapsed fish species "absurd." Water contamination, other invasive nonnative species and freshwater diversions from the Delta to San Joaquin Valley croplands are the major causes of the collapse of THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 09 Euphemisms abound in the prison system By Tom J. Mariani hen the State of California held me prisoner 2002 to 2003, the name of the agency was the California Department of Corrections, or the CDC. Since then, for reasons unclear to me, the word "rehabilitation" has been added to create a new acronym, CDCR. Neither euphemism has any basis in reality. Having had an inside view of San Quentin, Old Folsom and the adjacent Level 4 facility, New Folsom, I did not see any programs to correct what caused inmates to be sent to prison. Nor did I see any rehabilitation going on that would help the convicts gain legal employment once they were released. We were told the guards were to be referred to as correctional officers, or COs. When I asked one of the guards about this months later, he gave me an honest answer, "Mariani, what about you being sent here would you like me to correct? They don't train me to correct anything about you. I'm paid to guard you to make sure you don't hurt someone or escape--the end. It says `CO' on my shirt, but I'm paid to guard you, not to correct you." Another word that took on new meaning for me in prison was "absconding." It was not a word that I had run into often until I was incarcerated. Most of the inmates were back in for their second, third or more time without committing a new crime. They had been out on parole and failed to show up for a scheduled visit to their parole office to pee in a cup for a drug test that they knew they would fail. That act of "absconding" would generate a warrant for their arrest. At state expense, whenever and wherever they were located, they were returned to prison. A recent famous example of absconding is Sara Jane Olson, aka Soliah. She was part of the Symbionese Liberation Army in the 1970s and indicted in February 1976 for planting bombs under police cars and for a bank holdup in Sacramento where a female customer was shot and killed. After she was found guilty, Sara absconded and was not located, rearrested and extradited to California until 23 years later in June of 1999. She was recently released after serving her time. Yes, she was punished for what she admittedly did, and was guarded while in custody, but what was done to "correct" what she had done? When she was in custody, what was done to "rehabilitate" her? Another CDCR euphemism is the "literacy program" at Old Folsom. The work assignment I obtained that earned my dayfor-day halftime was as a literacy clerk. With a civilian credentialed teacher as my supervisor, I tested all new inmates to determine their grade-level reading ability. I trained volunteer inmate tutors and tutored inmates myself. While being held at Folsom, I read in the Sacramento Bee that the warden had bragged to her Rotary Club about how this program was helping to prepare inmates to find jobs when they were released so that they would not return to prison. However, out of the entire inmate population, there was only a budget for--and room in the Folsom library for--25 inmates. That number also included all one-on-one tutors. "Correction" and "rehabilitation" was being provided to 26 inmates, including myself. I was released in 2003. Even with written recommendations from my civilian supervisor, I have not been able to get a job tutoring. "Have you ever been convicted of a felony?" and "We will do a background check and require fingerprints" is as far as any of my applications have gone. The CDCR does not train inmates how to be electricians, plumbers or painters. Inmates who already have these skills try to get work assignments to earn halftime and less than $1 an hour. To let you know how the CDCR values education, my literacy clerk job was an unpaid work assignment. It did however, earn me my halftime, which cut my two years sentence to 13 months served. There is something correct in that. Tom J. Mariani, a Santa Rosa resident and published freelance writer, has just completed 25 chapters of `Impugn? What About Reasonable Doubt?' which covers his 18-year career in bank management and 11 years in corporate risk-management, to a falsely accused two-strike felon. Open Mic is now a weekly feature in the Bohemian. We welcome your contribution. To have your topical essay of 700 words considered for publication, write firstname.lastname@example.org. `It says "CO" on my shirt, but I'm paid to guard you, not correct you.' 10 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN the Sacramento's fisheries, says Ostrach. Yet striped bass make an ideal candidate on which to cast blame. "The striped bass is the nonnative fish that everybody knows. It may be an introduced species, but it's coexisted with salmon for a hundred years," Ostrach says. Assemblywoman Fuller, who communicated with the Bohemian by email, sees things differently. "According to the California Department of Fish and Game, over 1 million adult striped bass exist in the Delta, while the Central Valley Chinook salmon populations have been reduced to just a couple of thousand. To me, that does not illustrate two species successfully coexisting." Executive director of the California Sportfishing Protection Alliance Bill Jennings says that overconsumption of water by farmers in the San Joaquin Valley is by far and away the leading cause of the state's salmon fishery collapse. Each year, a busy gauntlet of pumps along the Sacramento and in the Delta send some 7 million acre-feet of freshwater--plus uncounted incidental minnows--southward into the San Joaquin Valley, where Fuller is from. In fact, those who support her bill include parties with a pointed interest in accessing the Sacramento River's water, like the Kern County Water Agency, the Modesto Irrigation District, the Metropolitan Water District of Southern California, the Friant Water Authority and the Eastern Municipal Water District. Jennings believes that what these groups really want is more water. "This bill is a smokescreen to hide the real reasons that anadramous fishes are disappearing," he says. Dr. Peter Moyle, a biologist at UC Davis and one of the best-known fisheries scientists in the West, says that predation by striped bass upon salmon and smelt does occur to a limited degree but mainly in fast-moving diversions created by pumps and dams, isolated man-made environments in which striped bass can easily ambush wayward salmon smolts and delta smelt. Otherwise, Moyle says, predation by stripers upon Delta smelt and Chinook salmon is negligible. Doug Demko, a biologist with the private consulting firm Fishbio and a supporter of AB 1253, says that the limited numbers of endangered fishes found in the bellies of striped bass may only be a function of their relative scarcity; there are almost none left for the bass to eat, he says. Demko points to a modeling system developed by biologists with the National Marine Fisheries Service, which predicts that a given juvenile Chinook of the Sacramento's winter run faces a 9 percent chance of seeing the gullet of a striped bass. "But when you look at the real gut contents of real striped bass, it's just not true," Ostrach says. Ostrach has committed much of his career to studying striped bass, but he says he has no self-serving motives for preserving the species. "As a fisheries biologist, my job is to find out what's going on in the ecosystem. If striped bass were really the cause of Chinook salmon and Delta smelt declines, I'd be the first to raise a red flag." But thirsty farmers were the first to sound the alarm, and for some, like Ostrach and Jennings, that seems just a bit too fishy. Promote Your Green Business in our new section "Going Green" Call Today @ 707.527.1200 and ask for rates, sizes and expert tips! The Bohemian is "Going Green" Every Week! THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 11 -- 8th Annual-- Annu What color camp are you in when it comes to green? Connecting Mind, Body, and Spirit g Body, y Imagine a Wo World of Infinite Po orld Possibilities ossibilities Th Concourse E hibiti The Concourse Exhibition Center Co Ce Center 8th Str Street at Brannan Street, San Francisco reet Francisco By Juliane Poirier Locke appy Earth Day. I imagine celebrants looking through green-colored glasses like those donned by Dorothy and pals in the Emerald City. But my green is too vague for the likes of Alex Steffan, author of Worldchanging: A User's Guide for the 21st Century. Steffan would make these glasses fit his "New Environmental Spectrum," restricting the lenses to light, bright and dark greens according to the manner in which one sees the solutions to environmental problems. A light-green environmentalist, according to Steffan, advocates taking "small, pleasant steps" toward change that is personal and ultimately aggregate. "Oh honey, it's Earth Day," says Light Green. "Let's use our fabric shopping bag today at Whole Foods." Dark greens, Steffan argues, are interested in making changes on a community level and are not attracted to marketbased actions but in fact "pull back from consumerism" and turn toward "direct connection to the land." I perceive these people to be the original nature lovers. "Hey babe, it's Earth Day," says Dark Green. "Let's pick some chard and sunflowers from the garden for the community potluck tonight. I hear there's going to be a roots band and a lecture about permaculture." Steffan himself aligns with bright greens, who are builders of better worlds and gadgets. Got a failing planet? Design your way back to stasis without giving up any of the toys that bring happiness. "Bright Green environmentalism," Steffan writes, "is a call to use innovation, design, urban revitalization and entrepreneurial zeal to transform the systems that support our lives. "Wow! Earth Day again," says Bright Green. "Let's take the Prius to the sustainable-architecture trade show today. I want to study the blueprints for the proposed eco-city and buy that new metering device for our solar system." Steffan, whose work has been recognized by the New York Times and the Wall Street Journal, is clear to point out that his categorization is not intended to divide green thought into camps or suggest that green newliv ingex o.com n newlivingexpo.com xp Got a failing planet? Design your way back to stasis without giving up any of the toys that bring happiness. Happiness is... shopping at: WESTERN FARM CENTER The Northern California Pet Nutrition Center � Fantastic Pet Products � Outstanding Prices Best Feed Store 2009 Western Farm Center 12 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN West 7th Street, Santa Rosa tel: 707.545.0721 � fax: 707.545.4302 � www.WesternFarmCenter.com thought is limited to one of the three hues. Instead, we combine the shades, depending on the circumstance or issue. My favorite of Steffan's categories is actually the one he terms "gray," because it makes a tidy grouping of the dark-siders who insist that there is no such thing as global warming. Among the grays are climate scientists who whore for oil companies to distract public attention from the scientific community's unanimous acknowledgement of climate change. Also in the gray category are those who take other kinds of money for posturing as science-minded skeptics, constantly considering the present crises as a theory to be analyzed, slowly, over and over again while "you all go on about your business" (that is, don't take any action). Steffan locates what he calls the "epicenter of gray thinking" to be on K Street in Washington, D.C., where one finds the "nest of lobbyists and industry-funded think tanks" that provide reading and radio material for graying the thoughts of others. "Aw crap, it's Earth Day," says Gray Thinker. "I'll grab a styrofoam cup of coffee, turn on all the electrical appliances in my house and speed to work in my Hummer. I've got to send off those scripts for Rush and draft another global-warming-denial article for George Will today." Just thinking about the grays helps me laugh to keep from crying and better appreciate the verdant tones with which we approach our changing lives on a warming planet. Steffen asks us to classify our own thinking, to identify which shades of green we are and why. I live most of the time in the dark-green camp because I feel most at home with natural systems and grassroots solutions. But I celebrate anyone of any color or camp who understands that we have a planet to nurture back to health, be it in baby steps, through community organizing or on high-tech solar scooters. It would be absurd to limit ourselves to one way of approaching a problem. Any contribution is better than denying we are in a crisis. We can leave that drabness of mind to K Street. Upcoming Workshops Space is limited Sign-ups requested ----------------------------------------- Gardening with Tomatoes/Veggies T Kids in the Sp ring Kids in the Spring Apr. 25th 10:00 Noon Apr. 25th 10:00 � Noon Attendees will receive Attendees will receive discount coupon for a discount coupon for related supplies! related supplies! May th 10:00 Noon May 9th 10:00 � Noon Attendees will receive Attendees will receive a discount coupon for discount coupon for related supplies! related supplies! ----------------------------------- ------ ----------------------------------- ------ It's time to check your It's time to check your We can help! Design, Parts Supplies We can help! Design, Parts & Supplies certified certified fi organic organi ic R Roses, Pottery, & more! , y, e! 707.823. 707 823 9125 707.823.9125 5 324 3244 Gravenstein Hwy North Sebastopol, CA 3244 Gravenstein Hwy North Sebastopol, CA st te or Winter Hrs: Mon-Fri 7 :30 � 5:00, Sat 8:00-5 :00, & Sun 9:00�5:00 Mon-Fri Winter Hrs: Mo ri 7:30 5:00, Sat 8:00-5:00, Sun 9:00�5:00 in 00 5: www.harmonyfarm.com www.harmonyfarm.com THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 13 14 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN Yasheh Qawasmi and her brother Samir serve up the Middle East to West County. Our highly subjective guide to the North Bay's must-have comestibles Compiled by Suzanne Daly, Gretchen Giles, James Knight, Juliane Poirier Locke, Gabe Meline, P Joseph Potocki, . Lindsay Pyle and Hannah Smith A lousy economy doesn't stop the stomach from its daily growl prowl. The pleasures of the public table are huge, and we always like to leave the chopping and washing to someone else. In considering this year's Resident Tourist Guide, we let our tummies do the talking as we brainstormed those places, both big and small, humble and grand, that are essential for area eats. Tuck in and enjoy! Ang�le Restaurant & Bar Missing Paris and can't get a f light to Europe? More often than I can get away to France, I settle for a f light of imagination and an elegant meal at Ang�le's, where the food and the setting are tr�s, tr�s bien. This is the ideal place to be alone with someone special, because only French kissing can evoke a Seine-side fantasy as perfectly as the seductive food, azure shutters, rustic cafe architecture, soft lighting, small tables and, if you're lucky, seating right beside the Napa River. (Why not phone ahead to make sure you get lucky?) The muted strains of Piaf f loat over your dreamy date, the river glitters just outside the window beside your small table, and the magnificent cuisine--duck confit cassoulet, French onion soup, glazed pork belly, hand-cut pasta with Catalonian meatballs--entices you as brilliantly as could any cafe in Paris. Perhaps a little more, as the menu offers fewer sauces and more imagination. The wine list is sophisticated. The night is young. Just do it. Joni Mitchell long ago observed, "In France, they kiss on Main Street." In Napa, they go to Ang�le's. 540 Main St., Napa. 707.252.8115.--J.P .L. Main Street Deli A smiling Samir Qawasmi and his sister, Yasheh, wrapped in a beautiful and traditional princess hajab (head scarf), busily dish up a Mediterranean feast for hungry errand runners. Flanked by the post office and a dry cleaner and steps away from a burrito shop and bagel store, it is easy to miss the Main Street Deli, a little oasis of Mediterranean delights in downtown Sebastopol. Although a Palestinian, Qawasmi serves traditional foods found throughout the Middle East, from Lebanese meatballs and pickled turnips to Greek dolmades and gyros. The menu boasts a wide variety of wraps, salads and sandwiches--half Mediterranean and half Californian--all for the bargain price of $5.99. Those in line order some of the homemade favorites: a smoked turkey and pesto wrap with provolone, a pastrami and melted Swiss panini or the daily special, like Lebanese meatballs with hummus, tahini and shatta, a Jordanian hot pepper sauce. The deli is a wild conglomeration of East and West, illustrated by the products for sale in the store. Pomegranate molasses, rose water, wild pickled cucumbers, and Lebanese halawa (halvah) share shelf space with Moon Pies, Skittles, Jelly Bellies, boxed soy milk and canned Chicken of the Sea tuna. A vast selection of cold drinks fills a walllength fridge case, and tables and chairs welcome customers to stop and sit a spell in the clean dining area. Don't forget to check out the dozen-plus prints of old train stations in Marin and Sonoma counties that hang crookedly on the wall. From Point Reyes, through Petaluma, Marshall, Tomales, Sebastopol and out to the river communities, diners fill up on local history while filling their bellies. After a delicious piece of melt-in-your-mouth Baklava for dessert before resuming the rigors of the day, it's surprising to step outside and realize that the Middle East is halfway around the world, because the Main Street Deli brings it into our own backyard. 280 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707.824.0700.--S.D. Simply Vietnam I'll never forget the first time I stepped into the curious little building on the corner of Dutton Avenue and Maxwell Court. It was a taqueria then, years ago, in an THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 15 Dr. Marie Mallory, D.D.S. Dr. Marie Mal lory D.D. S. y, H O LI S T I C PR E V E N T I V E D E N T I S T RY FO R YO U R FA M I LY HOLISTIC & PREVENTIVE DENTISTRY FOR YOUR FAMILY D r. Mallor y was tr aine d i n b oth Dr. Mallory was trained in both Germany and the U.S. Warm, gentle Germany and the U.S. Warm, gentle and caring, she listens and responds and caring, she listens and responds t to your every n ever y need. ry Dr. Mallor y's thorough, educational Dr. Mallory's thorough, educational dental exam will restore your faith de nta l exam wi ll rest ore your fai th i dentistr y. in dentistry. ry Mallory's service preventive Dr. Mallor y's holistic approach Dr. M ll r y's h li i approach and impeccable ser v in preventive and pp o h pr p d i vice re restorative dental care will give you new alternatives fo pain-reducing dental restorative e care l r alternatives for pain-reducing rn or re treatment and healing. Yo children will love her! re our re treatment Your children A L L AG E S W E L C O M E ALL AGES WELCOME ~ SENIOR DISCOUNTS ~ M E R C U RY/ M E TA L F R E E S E NIOR DISCOUNTS MERCURY/METAL FREE 7 6 D o c t o r s P a r k D r i ve , S a n t a R o s a C A 9 5 4 0 5 76 Doctors Park Drive, Santa Rosa CA 95405 ~ 707.542.7800 ~ drmallory.com 7 0 7. 5 4 2 .7 8 0 0 dr m a l lor y. c om era when for some reason all the prevailing taquerias in Santa Rosa had been coaxed by heart specialist Dr. John McDougall into offering his "McDougall menu." I innocently ordered a vegetarian burrito. I was served a tortilla filled with cauliflower, baby corn, lettuce, sliced carrots, broccoli and red onions. I didn't finish the thing. It took years for me to venture through those doors again, but it paid off. Simply Vietnam has all but erased the atrocities of yesteryear, offering inexpensive soups, noodle dishes and curries that burst with f lavor. In particular, its magnificent pho has started an all-out locals' war over which pho is superior--Simply Vietnam or the longrunning Pho Vietnam, over on Stony Point--and its ambiance is clean and uncluttered. The portions are huge, and for just $8, you can eat like royalty and still take home half the plate for a midnight snack. Oh, and you know that perpetually single friend of yours? The one with the Asian-girl obsession? Don't let him come here or have any interaction with the waitresses. He'll never want to leave. 966 N. Dutton Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.566.8910.--G.M. Toast It doesn't get much more simple than toast--the best thing to happen to sliced bread since the plastic bag. Appropriately named after this basic breakfast accompaniment, Toast, in downtown Mill Valley, pays homage to the white, the wheat and the rye by offering the basics in American breakfast. And let it be said, the basics in American breakfast serve for some as the very stars and stripes of this country. Just talk of scrambled eggs, bacon or sausage, and a faint murmur of the American anthem can be heard in the distance. Toast plays to this formidable patriotic weak spot. From biscuits and gravy to Benedicts of all kinds, to omelettes and scrambles and pancakes of many flavors, Toast leaves nothing to be desired. It even offers Belgian waffles, fried French toast, huevos rancheros and breakfast pizzas, in case one's breakfast tastes are slightly international. While it is, for lack of a better phrase, just a diner, Toast's overall success must be attributed to doing the basics, and doing them well. Black and chrome stools sit looking into an open kitchen, tables and booths line the windows, and classic American tunes sing quietly out of a jukebox. It is clean and retro and comfortable. Since the same space was home to the Sunnyside Cafe for almost 12 years, its retro-Americana theme is welcome, and a bit refreshing since surrounding Mill Valley hasn't much to offer in that department. Tiny little Toast is tucked into that little passageway of shops on Sunnyside, seemingly aware that its glory is enjoyed without great attention. The fact that people from all over Marin go to Toast and willingly wait for hours to be seated in the pursuit of the American breakfast is all the tribute it needs. Perhaps it's that Toast has become, like its namesake, a sort of staple in the American breakfast psyche, or at least as far as Marin's concerned. Due to such success, Toast has opened a second location in Novato in order to accommodate all of its adoring fans. This chic version of the classic favorite promises to be the next "best" in basic breakfast, again. 31 Sunnyside Ave., Mill Valley. 415.388.2500. 5800 Nave Drive, Unit G, Novato. 415.382.1144.--L.P . Olive & Vine The old converted winery hugging the shady creek that we now call Jack London Village in Glen Ellen houses a cheesemonger, a chocolatier, a custom olive oil press and three good restaurants. Among the latter, Olive & Vine especially shines. This high-ceilinged, eclectically furnished space boasts an open kitchen, as well as a wine bar off to one side. The eye wanders from place to thing to odd item, before meandering up to the daily menu board to order. The menu can change daily, but some items consistently show up. They offer a quiche of the day, housemade pizzas, Southwest chicken burgers, Thai fish burgers, a pulled barbecue pork sandwich, ahi tuna burgers with Asian slaw, and a slew of paninis, including a killer Black Forest ham with Brie and fig chutney. The rosemary chicken panini is served with red-pepper fennel relish. Each lunch item comes with a salad from a choice of 10 for $10 to $11. The four-salad plate is a personal favorite; choosing just four is the hard part. The plate gets served with a healthy slice of grilled Della Fattoria bread. For dessert, Olive & Vine bakes all manner of openfaced fruit crustadas--pear and blueberry, rhubarb or whatever's in season--as well as assorted cakes, souff l�s, tartlets and honeydipped bran muffins. Each Friday, the restaurant showcases top-notch North Bay musical artists from 7pm. A special menu accompanies the music and the house charges no cover. These are SRO nights, so get there early. 14301 Arnold Drive, Ste. 3, Glen Ellen. 707.996.9150.--P . .J.P Sol Food There are two Sol Food locations just one block away from each other, but I'm pretty much all about the smaller Fourth Street Sol Food, especially in the waning late hours on Friday or Saturday nights. Cramped around the towering foliage in the corner lot next to the tattoo shop and the dry cleaner, there's always a good crowd of hungry nighttime denizens, and I'll answer right here and now the question they all ask: no, Sol Food does not sell beer (and no, you can't legally bring your own inside). The Puerto Rican fare at Sol Food has sparked a bona fide Bay Area sensation. Friends of mine often drive 45 miles simply to dine on their pan-fried pork chops, their marinated chicken thighs and their chorizo and ham sandwiches. Bottles of explosive hot sauce homemade with 12 different peppers make zesty dishes even zestier, and vegan and vegetarian options abound with plenty of rice and plantains. Limeade and iced tea are made in-house, and the reasonably priced menu offers much for the curious. (Want just one plantain tost�n? Have it. It's only $1.25.) It must be also noted that the d�cor is lovely, with walls made from old recycled doors and shutters and salvaged metal chairs 16 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN Cheese is good food Vella Cheese Company Ignazio "Ig" Vella insists that the Sonoma bridge named in his honor resulted from his decades of county and community service. Still, there can't be many traffic spans honoring a master cheesemaker. Well, perhaps in France. While tourist hordes invade the Sonoma Cheese Factory on the Sonoma Plaza, locals amble a few soothing blocks east to taste crumbly aged dry jacks, raw milk cheddars and Italianstyle table cheeses in the quietude of the old stone brewery building in which Ig's father, Tom, first opened his Vella Cheese Company back in the last Great Depression. "I started working here when I was four years old," Vella says. "My dad and I would drive into San Francisco to deliver our cheese, especially in North Beach, where most of the Italians and the French lived. I'd throw the cheese from the truck to him." The Vellas have never used animal rennet in any of their cheeses. Vella's vegetablecoagulated cheeses contain only about 1 percent salt, and the edible rinds get rubbed with cocoa, black pepper and vegetable oils. While Vella cheeses are definitively old-time artisanal--and they have a wall of gold metals to prove it--Vella's 2007 Sustainable 6 environmental award illustrates just how innovative green technologies like the photovoltaic solar panels installed on the roof of his creamery complement time-honored techniques of a craftsman. Fittingly, last year Ig Vella was also honored by the trendy and yet back-to-timeproven-basics Slow Food International folks. Carlos Petrini, founder and president of the organization, sent along a letter accompanying the award acclaiming Vella for "work that is helping to improve food that is good from an organoleptic [i.e., taste, smell, sight and feel] point of view, that is sustainable for the environment and fair at a social level." And if these many hosannas weren't enough, the Slow Food award gives Ig the perfect excuse to squeeze "organoleptic" into his next acceptance speech. 315 Second St. E., Sonoma. 707.938.3232.--P.J.P. Jose Matos Cheese Factory Nothing says "Resident Tourist" quite like the Jose Matos Cheese Factory, which offers a perfect opportunity to whisk visiting relatives through the rural Sonoma County that still exists in small word-of-mouth locales. Jose and Mary Matos, a couple from Portugal, make only one kind of cheese, the St. George, at their small farm off Llano Road, and it's not only delicious but fantastically applicable--I've had equal success using it on pizzas, burritos, sandwiches and huevos rancheros. Even better is that buying the stuff is a true backroad adventure. Drive on Llano Road until you see the Jose Matos sign, just south of Todd Road. Lumber down a bumpy dirt road, past cows grazing udder-deep in manure, and past large diesel gas tanks for the tractors, all the way to the end. Veer left and park next to the large pile of moldy grapefruit. One of the small buildings will have a tiny "Open" sign in the window. Pull the door and hear the unceasing rattle of a very loud bell, alerting the presence of a visitor. Inside, a diminutive woman will eventually appear in a hairnet, slice off a sample of the cheese from the rustic display case, and silently hand it over. Tell her how much you'd like to buy, and she'll wrap it up, seven bucks a pound, cash or local check only. Make sure to crane your neck into the back room, where shelves upon wooden shelves hold hundreds of rounds of the aging cheese, and once outside, avoid the arrival of convertible PT Cruisers piloted by winetasters in Bermuda shorts eager to have the same authentic rural farm-tour experience. 3669 Llano Road, Santa Rosa. 707.584.5283. --G.M. BO TO U X M AKES YO HA FACIAL [regularly $125] $40 from depending on site BOTOX [regularly $325-380] $235 RESTYLANE $450 [regularly $610 per 1cc] CALL FOR YOUR APPOINTMENT TODAY Offers expire June 1, 2009 PLASTIC SURGERY 141 Lynch Creek Way Petaluma 707.778.2 313 W W W. D R K I M B E R LY H E N R Y. C O M Feel at Home with Your Dentist! ! Full Service Dentistry ! 21 Years in Practice ! Cosmetic Dentistry ! Warm environment with knowledgable staff ! All ages welcome! Yo el Rey Roasting locally roasted organic fair trade coffee Available for shipping online Rose Lucchese DDS 568 Petaluma Ave Sebastopol 707-829-0692 1217 Washington St Downtown Calistoga 707.942.1180 www.yoelrey.com painted yellow and turquoise. A human touch comes via faded sepia photos of the owners' family back in Puerto Rico, tucked beneath the front counter glass, like little friends whose lives intersect with yours while you finish your J�baro sandwich. I've shamelessly fallen in love with the one near the register that bears a beautiful Puerto Rican resemblance to PJ Harvey. 732 Fourth St. and 901 Lincoln Ave., San Rafael. 415.451.4765.--G.M. Angelo's Wine Country Deli Anyone whose email address begins with "moregarlic" is, by definition, a master of robust living. Just crack the door to Angelo's Wine Country Deli, and a manly blast of smoked meat and garlic hits the carnivore's nostrils with the subtlety of a sledgehammer pounding a thumbtack. Plastic canisters chock-full of eight assorted thick, chewy and yet surprisingly soft and tender beef and turkey JEWELRY TECH ALSO AN Y GOLD, PL ATI NUM, DI AMONDS BY RON BLODGET T W E BU Y SILVER JEW ELRY WANTED AMAZING SERVICE GUAR ANTEED 130 FOURTH ST, SANTA ROSA RR SQ 707-528-3378 PP IE THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 R! 17 jerkies provide pilgrims a delicious workout one's jaw and taste buds won't soon forget. Angelo's justifiably renowned jerkies are each marinated before drying, injecting intense f lavor into each and every bite. Before deciding on a mile-high smokedchicken salad sandwich with a side of seriously toothsome macaroni salad, or anything else from Angelo's range of extreme deli offerings, try a chip or two piled high with his sweet and garlic-spicy salsa, his garlic mustard, marinara or barbecue sauce, and definitely pop a few of his garlic-stuffed olives and signature pickled garlic cloves, all of which are abundantly laid out free of charge. Hell, you're full before you hit the register. But we haven't yet broached the salivaprompting topic of Angelo's exquisite smoked bacons, hams for two, smoked chops, whole hog and fowl products, or his 22 different smoked and fresh sausage offerings. Whew, buddy! Angelo Ibleto came to the North Bay from Genova, Italy, 30 years ago. Locals drop by Angelo's smokehouse off Old Adobe Road on the outskirts of Petaluma to chat with the amiable man himself, but for an exceptional deli experience head to Angelo's Wine Country Deli. The humble outpost squats amid the splendor of Carneros wineries across from Gloria Ferrer's rather more elegant digs. While Gloria boasts the fancy gate, a long winding drive and palatial spread poking out from the hills, Angelo's Deli has his "Let's eat!" fiberglass cow standing out front as its warm and friendly greeting. Peruse the rogue's gallery of Angelo fans hanging on the wall as the cashier rings up your order. Question is, does Tippi Hedren exact her revenge by ravishing his smoked chicken sausage, turkey jerky or one of Angelo's plump and juicy little smoked game hens? Angelo's Wine Country Deli, 23400 Arnold Drive, Sonoma. 707.938.3688. Angelo's Meats, 2700 Adobe Road, Petaluma. 707.763.9586.--P . .J.P Fish Perched like a pelican over the backside of the Sausalito bay, Fish looks more like a bait and tackle shop than a sustainable seafood restaurant (for good reason; Fish actually shares a bathroom with the bait and tackle shop next door). It is a fish 'n' chips joint, so its exterior plays the part. The interior keeps character, too, with cement f loors, large wooden tables where guests eat communally and a glass display case offering fresh fish to take home. Guests come into the little sea shack; wait in line to order the freshest fish and chips, ahi poke, clam chowder, fish tacos or catch of the day; take a number, maybe help themselves to some water from the tap near the large bay windows looking out onto the foggy, turbulent sea; and sit to await their feast. Offering only seafood that is sustainably caught in California, Fish hasn't offered wild salmon for the last year and won't buy farmed salmon. On every table there is a f lyer explaining why farmed salmon is entirely unworthy of eating. Why Fish makes the local favorite list is simple, though: Their food is just good, serving up perfect comfy meals for Sausalito days. Cash only. 350 Harbor Drive, Sausalito. 415.331.FISH.--L.P . Cafe Citti I couldn't believe it when a friend suggested we go to lunch in Kenwood. Admittedly, all I'd known about the town was its annual Fourth of July pillow-fighting championships and a seriously cool old train depot that Van Morrison was rumored to have played at in the late '60s. But food in Kenwood? I'd guessed that it was all pretty froufrou. I was wrong. Cafe Citti looks like a simple roadside stop on Highway 12, and once inside, you'll order at the front counter of a down-home style room complete with fireplace and stray newspapers. Then your food will arrive, and that's where things change. Everything about the place is no-nonsense and unpretentious, and the prices are incredibly modest, but the food is right up there with the upscale restaurants of the Sonoma Valley. That first visit, I got a leek frittata sandwich on focaccia with pesto mayo, and was soaring. Rotisserie chicken and pasta salads highlight a menu on which no item is priced over $16.50, and ciabatta bread, in-house caesar dressing and homemade mozzarella is available to take home after desserts of tiramisu or chocolate mousse. The outdoor patio is lovely during the day, and wine from an extensive list is served in short little cups. Short little cups! You'll never look at Kenwood the same way again. 9047 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood. 707.833.2690.--G.M. Pupusas Salvadorenas For the last two-and-a-half years, the best-kept secret in Santa Rosa has been the excellent Pupusas Salvadorenas, where the food is delicious, the prices are dirt cheap and the experience unforgettable. The pupusa--a masa tortilla filled with pork, beans, cheese and sometimes lorocco, a vine flower bud--has been a staple in El Salvador for over 3,000 years. Topped with a coleslaw-like curtido and spiced tomato sauce, it is slowly making its way north. At Pupusas Salvadorenas, pupusas are only $2 each, and you'll be full after eating just two. The inexpensive menu invites exploration, with great results. Take a random stab and try the pasteles (a plate of fried mash pies stuffed with chicken and potato) or, for dessert, the nuegados (fried mash yucca served with honey and hot sour sauce). Possibly the most delicious thing on the menu is also the simplest: the tamal de elote con crema, a subtly sweet corn tamale with cream for just $1.75. How can you lose? Now with an expanded menu and hours, the unassuming little haven across from the fairgrounds is better than ever. Pupusas are individually handmade to order, so during busy spells they take a little longer, and it's helpful to know beforehand that your waitress doesn't bring a check. Just approach the register when you're ready to leave. You'll be back. 1403 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.544.3141.--G.M. Tomales Bakery Nestled at the crossroads of Highway 1 and Dillon Beach Road, Tomales Bakery is the perfect stopping point on a backroads escapade through the coastal beauty of Marin County. Visitors f lock to this little gem located across the street from the general store and kittycorner from the Tomales Not a Bank Building. Some come solely for the Puff 18 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN Drive-ins to die for Pick's Drive-In It was the end of the Cloverdale Citrus Fair parade, senior year. My friend Kim and I settled into a booth at Pick's Drive-In and started talking. What would happen after we graduated? Where were we going? Why did the future have to be so uncertain? Would we still keep in touch? Every time I visit Pick's Drive-In, I'm reminded of this classic teenage conversation. I am glad Pick's is still there, serving up the same classic American drive-in food on the same strip of road that's gone from highway to desolate boulevard to thriving Main Street in what seems like such a short span. While Cloverdale institutions like the Redwood Drive-In and the Wheel Cafe have closed, Pick's has weathered the years. If you're looking to settle in for a full meal, Cloverdale has the gas-station-turnedroadside stop Hamburger Ranch up the road a bit, recently renovated with an outdoor dining area overlooking some vineyards. But if you're just passing through and want a quick bacon cheeseburger, or if it's after the parade and you need to talk about your future, Pick's is the place. It's been over 15 years. Kim and I are still best friends. 117 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale. 707.894.2962.--G.M. Taylor's Automatic Refresher Locals go to Taylor's for great, guilt-free hamburgers and other fine foods to enjoy with a beer. We go because the food is great and the atmosphere fun, but we also know that by eating here we are avoiding not only a ticket from the nutrition police, but also ditching those horrible huts where food is cheap and the business practices for land and organisms range from unconscious to cruel. Imagine a burger and fries that costs several times the price of fast food and is worth even more in flavor, ingredients and sustainability points. It's on the menu at Taylor's, where the food may be convenient, but it is also fabulous, fresh, fairly priced and eco-friendly. The burger is made only from Niman Ranch beef, the produce is mostly local and frequently organic, and the ubiquitous greenware made of plant fiber is so earth-friendly that it fairly composts itself. The only thing you throw away at this place is the cap from a beverage container. They even compost the last bite of burger you couldn't finish. If you prefer fish tacos, Taylor's even beats the locals-only taco truck parked in a location I can't leak to the press--even if I am press. At Oxbow Public Market, 644 First St., Napa. 707.224.6900. Also, 933 Main St., St. Helena. 707.963.3486.--J.P.L. Sequoia Drive-In It's all about the fries at Sequoia, hand-cut real potatoes roughly hewn, deeply fried and massively dispersed. The small bag of fries is enough for three, which is why my family of four always orders two. The hamburgers come in single and double sizes, the clam chowda'--their cuteness, not mine--is homemade, and the shakes are scooped from cardboard tubs and made fresh. A real treat in the summer, as all the seating is outdoors on picnic tables, Sequoia is just fine for takeout in the winter, the hungry salivater huddling in a warm car waiting for the order. The smell of fries can take a full day to seep out of the car, and that's OK because such golden goodness deserves to be remembered. It's the fries. 1382 Gravenstein Hwy. S., Sebastopol. 707.829.7543.--G.G. Locals Spa Pass Locals receive Daddies, f laky cinnamon popovers made with filo lightness, and a cup of freshly brewed Taylor Maid coffee. Passing through the bakery's doorway painted with bright red opium poppies is like stumbling down the Easter Bunny's hole into a giant colored egg. Painted grass-green and pale, sunshine yellow, the counter top is tiled in pinks and purples, with a bright bouquet of spring tulips in an aqua mason jar. Glass cases f lank the counter, filled with brownies, croissants, muffins and fragrantly delicious cinnamon, pesto or Gorgonzola twists hot out of the oven. Pizette and calzone are available by 11am, just in time for the lunch crowd. Grab a seat at the one table inside or eat out on the patio in the burgundy or forest-green Adirondack chairs, with crumb-seeking birds and large potted plants for company. The friendly staff and sweet or savory treats will fend off hunger and brighten the pause before the next leg of the adventure. Keep in mind, the place closes when 20% off must bring in this coupon The Hyatt Vinyard Creek Hotel & Spa 170 Railroad Street, Santa Rosa Reservation: 707.636.7300 Hotel: 707.636.7100 www.vinyardcreek.hyatt.com THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 in the Spa 19 Come Home to Sonoma County David Peoples Residential Real Estate 707-486-5037 PeoplesHomes.net it sells out, and it always sells out. 27000 Hwy. 1, Tomales. 707.878.2429.--S.D. Sukhothai Coming from a small town with the diversity of cardboard, I had never tasted Thai food until I came to Sonoma County four years ago. I soon became an addict, using any special occasion as an excuse to go out for coconut milk and curry powder. I hadn't been to Sukhothai since it was known as Bangkok Boulevard, but when a friend, as sadly sheltered as I used to be, revealed she had never tried Thailand's exotic tastes, I took her under my wing and out to try the restaurant. Sukhothai's menu has all the essentials: pad Thai, drunken noodles and, of course, moderately priced spicy to mild curries. I opted for the classic pad Thai with chicken, while the mild yellow curry with potatoes and carrots tempted my friend. My pad Thai looked scrumptious with crushed peanuts on the side, bean sprouts on top of the spiced aromas of chicken and noodles, and a spiraled orange slice atop a tiny cabbage salad. I took a bite and immediately let out an "Oh, wow!" while my friend poured her fantastic-looking curry on a mound of brown rice and began to dig in. We were so immersed in our food that we dined solely to the noises of furious eating until I found that my pad Thai did indeed have chicken, as well as at least 10 pieces of tofu. Had the cooks run out of chicken and decided to trick me, thinking that-- with its disguise of no texture or taste--I wouldn't notice the tofu? Being from the world of burgers and fries, my friend and I were unaware of the rules of world food. We saved face by pretending we knew exactly what was going on. A few days later when I again ordered the pad Thai (told you I was an addict), I found out that the tofu was actually a regular ingredient in the dish. I felt silly, but kept eating because the food was amazing and, really, a little tofu never hurt anybody. 6358 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park. 707.584.5091.--H.S. Grateful Bagel The ideal eatery for a high school student has to meet a few key requirements: it must be affordable and filling, and a student must be able to get there, order, eat and return to school in the half-hour length of a lunch period. Funnily enough, that's also the ideal eatery for most workers. Given such criteria, the Grateful Bagel is far and away the best option for those daring enough to slip past Analy High School's security and off the closed campus or those needing a quick snack in a busy office day. Upon entering the tiny and usually jampacked bagel store, customers are amused by a mural of an angel-borne Jerry Garcia, in a representation of Michelangelo's God from the Sistine Chapel, reaching out to a tightywhitey-clad Adam with a bagel in hand. If the wallet is really thin, arrive a little before 4 in the afternoon, when you can get their day-old bagels for half-price or two-dayold bagels for free. The worker is served! My son's advice for the student caught returning to campus, bagel in hand? "Offer up the bagel to the narc. Chances are he'll let you off the hook for a few delicious bites." That's something to be grateful for. 300 S. Main St., Sebastopol. 707.829.5220.--S.D. Himalayan Tandoor & Curry House Mention this place, and the fortunate diners who have eaten there immediately rave about the naan. The warm, Indian flatbread served with meals to sop up curry and other sauces is indeed delicious and slightly chewy, with choices of cilantro, cheese and garlic flavors. But naan is not the only menu item to salivate over. Meals typically start with a small but hearty cup of daal, a nourishing lentil soup flavored with bits of green onion. Starters include meat or vegetable momos with a delicious dipping sauce, the Nepalese version of pot stickers, or a plate of two hefty samosas, filled with peas and potatoes. This alone satisfies the vegetarian in the group, but the omnivores ought not to forgo the chicken tikka masala or spicy lamb vindaloo. The creamy masala sauce, rich over rice, balances well with cucumber raita and a bit of mango chutney. Wearing broad smiles, the staff welcome customers, and the pleasant and relaxed atmosphere infuses itself into diners like tea leaves steeping in a ceramic cup of steaming water. The owners, transported from Nepal to Berkeley to Sonoma County, have now opened a second restaurant in Petaluma. And no wonder--with ethnic food this tasty, it's best to share the wealth. Bellies and pocketbooks will feel comfortably full after eating, and for that we say namaste. 969 Gravenstein Hwy. S., Sebastopol. 707.824.1800. Also, 220 Western Ave., Petaluma. 707.775.4717.--S.D. Taqueria Las Palmas When Las Palmas opened five years or so ago, I was so awestruck that I very seriously entertained the idea of writing a glowing review, making 200 photocopies and distributing it to every house in the neighborhood to inform them that Santa Rosa had a new second-best taqueria. El Favorito on Sebastopol Road will always be first-best--don't even try to challenge it--but you know something's up when the indie hipsters and wine country foodies all agree: Las Palmas is a jewel among taquerias. The key difference at Las Palmas is fresh, fresh, fresh. Whether grabbing their addictive chilaquiles in the morning, their alambres on particularly hungry nights or a quick torta for lunch, everything that comes from their long, narrow kitchen is prepared with top-shelf ingredients. If you've been eating at other taquerias for years, your taste buds will be amazed at what they've been missing. At this point, I've had everything on Las Palmas' menu. In five years, I have never been let down. The chicken mole plate is to die for, the huevos rancheros are spot-on and the enchiladas are heaping. It's also hard not to love a place with two separate varieties of vegetarian burrito, and if you just want a hamburger with fries, it's even cheaper than a burrito. One word of warning: if you order the spicy shrimp el diablo tacos, and you foolishly accept the offer of "extra hot" in a one-upmanship game of �Quien es mas macho? with your friends, prepare to walk around in a psychedelic cloud of haba�ero haze for a good hour or so afterwards. No joke. 415 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.546.3091.--G.M. 20 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN Once again we remind: There is more to dining than falafel Estate Sondra Bernstein of the Girl and the Fig reinvented the former General's Daughter into a modern gathering spot with an enormous menu. Browse and nibble, and don't be afraid to experiment with offbeat bites like braised tripe in tomato sauce topped with a crispy farm egg, or chicken livers tossed with bitter greens and grappa currants. The wood-fired pizzas rock. 400 W. Spain St., Sonoma. 707.933.3663. Bottega Michael Chiarello is a TV star who reminds us he's first and foremost a chef--though the glamour is ever-present, too. High-energy Italian-style translates to fabulous food and d�cor, such as a gargantuan lamb shank that's been braised to velvet in goat milk and then gilded in garlic, fennel, sweet onions and roasted wild mushrooms. 6525 Washington St., Yountville. 707.945.1050. Restaurant Eloise Chef-owners Eric Korsh and Ginevra Iverson come from the acclaimed Prune in New York. But here they've made it all about Big City Sonoma, with local ingredients turned into sophisticated stunners such as mushrooms with poached eggs on toast, and marrow bones you scoop out with a tiny spoon. 2295 Gravenstein Hwy. S., Sebastopol. 707.823.6300. Scopa Nonna's tomato-braised chicken. Need we say more? Italian comfort food gets even more cozy in this warm, tiny spot, with husband-and-wife team Ari Rosen and Dawnelise Regnery Rosen hovering attentively nearby. The housemade cannelloni is a must, stuffed with creamy ricotta and baked in deeply savory Bolognese. 109-A Plaza St., Healdsburg. 707.433.5282. Marinitas In the mood for Monkey Love? Stylish South American sizzles, with regional Mexican and pan-Latin plates alongside Chilean wines and funky cocktails like that Monkey Love mix of platinum and dark Myers's rum, hibiscus, pineapple and orange. Chef-owner Heidi Krahling kicks loose with uncommon (and uncommonly good) bites like Yucataninspired Alaskan cod with corn cakes in pumpkin-seed vinaigrette, plus crispy tacos in nopales salsa. 218 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo. 415.454.8900. Madrona Manor The estate-genteel decor and formal gardens belie the modern cooking going on inside. Chef Jesse Mallgren shows off with sous-vide and liquid nitrogen ice cream, but also nails the classics. You've never had an egg like this, slow-cooked to a sensuous custard touched with Banyuls vinegar and resting on onion velout�. 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg. 707.433.4231. Murray Circle If you could eat the view, you'd be fat and happy indeed at this luxury spot within Cavallo Point Lodge at Fort Baker. But focus instead on the opulent tasting menus from chef Joseph Humphrey. � la carte is another enticing option, perhaps the Eggs, Fish and Fowl, combining pheasant egg topped with Parmesan foam and black caviar; a hard-cooked partridge egg on chive cr�me fra�che dotted with coral salmon roe; and a fried quail egg capped with sea urchin roe over grilled leeks and bacon. 602 Murray Circle, Sausalito. 415.339.4750. The Restaurant at Meadowood You're eating overlooking a resort croquet course and paying up to $155 for an eight-course tasting menu. Yet chef Christopher Kostow keeps things relatively down-to-earth in this swank setting, offering up enticements like slow-cooked round of beef tenderloin paired with brioche gnocchi, smoky grilled chicories and morels. If a dish sounds interesting, order it--it's likely one-of-akind. 900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena. 707.967.1205. Nick's Cove The setting is sumptuous, sprawling out to pylons above the Pacific. Yet the food quickly distracts, even when it's as simple as Bodega Bay Dungeness crab cakes served as a trio of luxuriously meaty, golden-edged disks tinged with fennel and resting on a puddle of bright Meyer lemon aioli. One of the most hugely satisfying plates is the cheeseburger and fries. 23240 Hwy. 1, Marshall. 415.663.1033. GG's Earth & Surf Restaurant The cafe is green-certified by Thimmakka (look it up), serving green-inspired food that you'll want to eat up. The emphasis from owner Suzan Fleissner and chef Trevor Anderson is thoroughly on seasonal organic produce, with all ingredients sourced from within 150 miles of Santa Rosa. No meat, but delish fish, such as saut�ed striped bass with olive ravioli, citrus butter and artichoke. Dive into wicked diversions such as pistachio ricotta pancakes with fresh mandarin ginger honey. 630 Third St., Santa Rosa. 707.528.1445. Carey Sweet THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 21 Alternate Route Training in Dance/Movement Therapy Intro Workshop, May 16 (7 hours CEU for MFT and/or LCSW Provider #3888) OR 18 month professional training program, starts July 10, 2009 The courses have been "developed in adherence to the American dance therapy association guidelines for ADTRs teaching courses to alternate route students." Held at Sonoma State University, Rohnert Park VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND CLASS SCHEDULES: www.movement-education.org/therapy/ To enroll contact: Judy Gantz, CMER Director email@example.com 310-477-9535 CENTER FOR MOVEMENT EDUCATION & RESEARCH BRING IN AD FOR 20% OFF purchase over $200 First Time Home Buyers! Now is the time to buy! Prices are down and interest rates are the lowest in years. Call me for a FREE evaluation of your situation.Together we can move you from renter to owner! The Boathouse Driving out to the beaches of Bodega Bay, the salt air hits my nose in a wave. Several upscale, touristclogged restaurants call out with promises of fresh fish, but we are lured farther out, hooked on a line tugging towards Salmon Creek. We eagerly clamber out of the car and onto the warm sand, wind blowing scudding clouds across the sun. And after a few hours of Frisbee--more chase than catch--or contemplative walking at the edge of the frigid water, we are ready to return to civilization for something warm, eaten in a sheltered atmospheric spot. A few twists and turns down California Highway 1 toward town bring us to the tiny Boathouse, the perfect spot for sandy sandaled feet and windswept hair. This little hole in the wall offers the freshest of fish at rock bottom prices. The line is no surprise, considering the freshly battered fish and chips or the juicy barbecued oysters. Those enthusiastic about catching their own meals can charter fishing trips here, since the Boathouse bills itself as Bodega Bay's Sport Fishing Center. Others just revel in the collage of photos on the wall of the big one that didn't get away, because it just might be battered and fried on the plate in front of you. 1445 N. Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. 707.875.3495.--S.D. Sal's Sal Radwan came to this country 27 years ago to study computer science at San Francisco State University. To pay for classes he worked in restaurants and for grocers. But with his studies completed, Radwan let the mainframes go and opted to buy Eezy Freezy, a classic West Portal neighborhood market, instead. Eventually, the friendly Radwan and wife, Azizeh, decided the North Bay would be just the place to raise their kids, opening Sal's Produce and Meat Market in Rohnert Park two years ago. The spacious, squeaky-clean store is stocked with hundreds of exotic, reasonably priced foodstuffs ranging from green-grocer items that make Safeway prices look like Whole Food's, to a Halal-certified meat counter filled with fresh cuts of lamb, beef, Fulton chicken and goat. Flatbreads line one wall. Four types of bulk bulgur, sandal syrup from Pakistan, round f lat lupini snacking beans, roast-yourown coffee beans, saltani green raisins, fruit punch from Saudi Arabia, feta cheese from four different countries, Greek tarragon soda, Indonesian spices, German sauerkraut, Syrian artichoke bottoms, Sudani roasted peanuts and items from North Africa, Malaysia, Lebanon, China, Armenia, Bulgaria, Egypt, Canada, Central America, and even the exotic United States, are colorfully dispersed throughout the store. Try sweet sesame and pistachio mixed nut bars from Palestine, dried barberries from Iran, rose leaf preserves from Croatia, Lebanese fig paste or Greek whole bergamot preserves. Save room for Sal's deli. Mideastern favorites like falafel, hummus, dolmas and baba ghanoush are to be expected, but there are also two-buck chicken pies and marinated Persian eggplant in olive oil, stuffed with hot pepper and walnuts. Imported sun-cured black and cracked house-spiced green olives are a steal at $3.99 a pound, while Greek salad and an eggplant salad tossed with parsley, garlic, red pepper and EVOO compete for space in the deli case. Best of all the Radwans really do listen to their clientele. They continually change, improve and add to their product line. 6590 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park. 707.206.9853.--P . .J.P Abyssinia Restaurant The North Bay's Eritrean community is going on 20 years, but good eats from the Horn of Africa were elusive until this restaurant opened in downtown Santa Rosa, tucked in between a taqueria and a pizza joint. The simple space, decorated but with a few colorful baskets, is a real hometown discovery. Tea urns dispense spiced tea similar to chai that adds a fragrant, palate-cleansing dimension. The short list of beer is better than most: extra smooth Ethiopian Harar, and creamy Hakim stout. There's an equal place at the table for vegetarians and fanciers of steak tartar. Intros are served with salad on a plate of injera, a spongy, sour f latbread like a thick cr�pe. Utensils are optional; one digs in with scraps of the injera. What appear to be modest portions turn out to be quite filling; unexpected leftovers are to be expected. 913 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707.568.6455.--J.K. BODY PIERCING SKATE BOARDS / ACCESSORIES HATS � SHIRTS � POSTERS � GLASSES INCENSE � ADULT NOVELTIES Licensed by the Department of Corporations under the California Residential Mortgage Lending Act, #813G092 Carole McCormick BRANCH MANAGER 1601 Fourth St, San Rafael 415-456-6237 707 523-1700 PrimaryNorCal.com Jerry meets Adam at the Grateful Bagel. 22 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN Thanks to everyone for voting us BEST SURF SHOP for so many years! www.Nort www.NorthernLightSurf.com thernLightSu urf.com 17190 Bodega Hwy. Bodega CA � M-F 10-5 Sat-Sun 9-6 Hwy. y CA 10-5 Daily Surf Report: 876.3110 � Shop pho Report t: phone: 876.3032 one: Woman-Owned Woman-Owned Family-Friendly Family-Friendly Tues-Fri 7:30-6:00 321 Second Street Petaluma 769-0162 HONDA TOYOT A M AZ DA NI S SAN SUBARU Women's Health Specialists confidential compassionate nonjudgmental More Than Just Health Care... m i n e r a l wat e r s & m a s s a g e LOVE MOM FACIALS, MASSAGE, SKINCARE GIFT C ARDS VIA PHONE 707.537.1171 www.cawhs.org 707-823-3535 ART SHOW, MAY 7TH THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 23 To Market, to Market North Bay farm markets, compiled by Hannah Smith Sonoma County Cotati Opens June 4 and runs Thursdays through Oct. 1 from 4:30pm to 7:30pm. La Plaza Park, downtown Cotati. 707.795.5508. Guerneville The Friday market runs from 4pm to 8pm and opens June 5, running through October. Parking lot of Sonoma Nesting, 16151 Main St. 707.869.9000. Healdsburg The Saturday-morning market opens unofficially on April 25 in celebration of Arbor Day for those farmers with "early" produce. The regular Saturdaymorning market goes into full swing on May 2, from 9am to noon, and runs through Nov. 28. North and Vine streets. The Tuesdayevening market begins June 2 from 4pm to 6:30pm and runs through Oct. 24. Matheson Street on the Plaza. 707.431.1956. Oakmont This is a year-round market, every Saturday from 9am to noon in the Wells Fargo Bank parking lot, corner of Oakmont Drive and White Oak. 707.538.7023. Occidental Opens June 5 and runs Fridays from 4pm to dusk through the season. Downtown Occidental, in front of Howard Station Cafe, 3611 Bohemian Hwy. 707.793.2159. Petaluma The Saturday market opens May 23 and runs 2pm to 5pm through Oct. 31 at Walnut Park, Petaluma Boulevard at D Street. Wednesday-night market begins June 10 and runs from 4:30pm to 8pm through Aug. 26 at the intersection of Second Street and B and D streets. 707.762.0344. Santa Rosa Year-round markets, Wednesday and Saturday, rain or shine, 8:30am to noon at the Veterans Memorial Building, east parking lot, 1351 Maple Ave. 707.522.8629. The downtown Wednesday Night Market opens May 13 and runs from 5pm to 8:30pm through Aug. 12. Downtown Santa Rosa, Fourth Street from B to D streets. 707.524.2123. Sebastopol Already underway for the season, this market runs every Sunday from 10am to 1:30pm through the last Sunday in November. Downtown Plaza at McKinley Street. 707.522.9305. Sonoma The Friday market is a rainor-shine, year-round event every week from 9am to 12:30pm at the Depot Park at First Street West. The Tuesday evening market began at the start of April and goes through the last Tuesday of October from 5:30pm to dusk, at the Sonoma Plaza on the Square. 707.538.7023. Windsor The Sunday-morning market begins in earnest on May 10 and runs from 10am to 1pm through Nov. 22. Beginning June 11, Thursday-evening markets with special concert and food nights run from 5pm to 8pm through the summer. Town Green in Old Downtown Windsor. 707.838.7285. Farm markets are about so much more than just eating. Tasting heaven at the Farmers Market By Lindsay Pyle t is a rainy, frigid Thursday morning. The cherry blossoms dance freeform in the wind, spiraling down from their perch in the trees. While these blossoms indicate spring, the morning is reminiscent of winter. The morning is not the only thing that's foggy, but even a late start for a self-proclaimed night owl proves fruitful at the farmers market held at the Marin Civic Center on this late Thursday morning. Smart chatter about broccoli rabe and sugar snap peas is heard somewhere above the distant blues harmonica playing. Ladies in large rubber boots carry canvas totes overflowing with wispy fennel leaves and baskets of flowers. Even on a day such as this, the small passageways are alive. Vendors in knitted caps and hoodies rub their hands together for warmth, smiling and waiting for questions and purchases, offering samples customary with market shopping. The shoppers include the usual Thursdaymorning suspects--chefs, restaurant owners, local farmers and anyone current in the Marin food circle who isn't tied to a nine-to-five. Between bites of grapefruit and strawberries, toothpicks filled with cheese, and crackers covered in spreads from roasted eggplant to olive tapenade, the greatest part of this market is in the interaction. Edmond from Petaluma's Della Fattoria bakery says he's relatively new to the Thursday-morning beat, having been coming for only seven months. He is lively in speech and openly generous, offering samples of his breads. He shares the history of his bakery, saying that he is beginning to focus more on markets like these and less on deliveries, because markets offer community, one that comes without using so much gas. The ladies from Healdsburg's DaVero occupy the stand next door. While offering their locally grown olive oils on soft morsels of bread, they tell near-lore of the fishmongering ladies--beautiful, busty Latinas with acrylic nails and plastic aprons who fillet five-foot-long fish before your eyes and only come on Sundays. The young men at Prather Ranch Meat bend into large refrigerators and pull out wrapped pieces of meat--shanks, hocks and steaks--beneath a sign saying "Organic, Humane, Sustainable." Peter, owner of Barlovento Chocolates, delicately slices off thin little bits of Meyer lemon zest, cardamom and honey, and Mayan hot chocolate truffles. Each piece melts like the faint taste of a meal that never was and always is. The man in a yellow bee suit at the Marshall's Farm Honey stand dips his miniature spoons into jars of amber flavored in lavender, wildflower and blackberry. Dried fruits sit comfortably beside almonds flavored with exotic spices like tequila lemon and lemon chili. Bags of walnuts, shelled or whole, share shelves with bushels of broccoli, kale and asparagus. The color of the fruits, vegetables and flowers that overflow out of these stands is a stark contrast against such a gray morning. Whole roasted chickens turn seductively in the windows of the Roli Roti truck. Authentic Belgian waffles come piling onto paper plates, their mountains of sugar and snowwhite whipped cream are pure save for the healthy chocolate streams that part them. Southern-scented smoke billows out of Frank's BBQ shack. Wood-oven roasted pizzas fly out of the portable oven into symmetrical square boxes. People licking their fingers and tapping their feet sit at tables assembled around one man playing his harmonica into a microphone. Is it any wonder why people would choose to spend their Thursday mornings here? Marin County Farmers Market, Marin Civic Center, Thursdays and Sundays, 8am�1pm, year-round. Larkspur Running Saturdays from 10am to 2pm. Ends last week in October. Ferry Building Parking lot. Larkspur Landing Circle. 415.382.7846. Mill Valley Every Friday beginning June 5 and ending last week in October, running from 9am to 1pm. Blithedale at Lomita. 415.382.7846. Novato Look for this market to commence on Tuesdays beginning May 5, running 4pm to 8pm through September. Grant Avenue, old downtown. 415.472.6100. www.marinfarmersmarket.org Pt. Reyes Station The West Marin farm market is a Saturday affair, running from 9am to 1pm. Runs June 27�Nov. 7. Toby's Feed Barn, 15479 State Route 1, Pt. Reyes Station. 415.669.9932. Ross Valley A new market, this one serves residents of Ross, Kentfield and San Anselmo and is slated for Thursdays from 3pm to 7pm, beginning May 29 and running to the last week of October. Ross Commons at the Post Office. 415.382.7846 San Rafael Year-round markets at the Marin County Civic Center are a community bastion. Look for them on Thursdays and Sundays, from 8am to 1pm. Sundays in the Marin County Civic Center parking lot and Thursday in the Veterans Memorial parking lot. 415.472.6100. www. marinfarmersarket.org. Also, the family affair that is the Thursday Night Market has already begun and runs from 6pm to 9pm though Sept. 24. Fourth Street, between B Street and Cijos. 415.492.8007. Sausalito This market opens May 8 and runs every Friday from 4pm to 8pm through Oct. 31. New location in the Bank of America Parking lot on Bridgeway. 415.382.7846. Tam Valley This market starts May 19 and is every Tuesday 3pm to 7pm. Tennessee Valley Road off of Highway 1 at Marin Street. 415.382.7846. Napa County Calistoga Spring is officially sprung in Calistoga on Saturday, May 2, with a market that runs Saturdays from 8:30am to noon through Oct. 31. Now located in Sharpsteen Plaza, across from City Hall, 1235 Washington St. 707.942.8892. Napa Saturday- and Tuesday-morning markets in Napa begin on May 2 from 7:30am to noon and run through October. This year's market is focused on sustainable, organic and artisanal goods and has a new location at the Napa Valley Wine Train, 1275 McKinstry Street in the Oxbow District. 707.252.7142. Meanwhile, the fillthe-streets fun of the Chef 's Market kicks off on a new day, overtaking downtown streets on Thursdays, and running May 21 through July 30 from 5pm to 9pm. Downtown Napa, between First and the Oxbow Public Market. 707.257.0322. St. Helena Look for this market every Friday, May 1 to Oct. 30, from 7:30am to noon. Crane Park, Crane Avenue at Grayson Avenue. 707.486.2662. Unconfirmed farmers markets about which we could not goose a call back or get more info include those in Monte Rio and Forestville. Please send details on those markets to firstname.lastname@example.org and we'll get them listed. Marin County Corte Madera This year-round market is held every Wednesday from noon to 5pm in the Town Center, Tamalpais and Highway 101, center courtyard. 415.382.7846. Fairfax With its fierce devotion to sustainability, this market opens on May 7 and runs Wednesday from 4pm to 8pm at Bolinas Park, 124 Bolinas Road. 415.472.6100. www.marinfarmersmarket.org. 24 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN To abide by Italian rules, pizza must be wood-fired to be pizza. Humble, filling and wholesome, it's more than a meal--it's a pizza your heart By Clark Wolf Splitting his time between Guerneville and Manhattan, acclaimed consultant Clark Wolf graces these pages with the occasional diatribe from the periodic local. n difficult economic times, it's valuable to look at ancient cultures to see how they fared in adversity. Sometimes the resulting food is rather spectacular. Take pizza. Why is pizza such perfect food? Maybe because it's so very old. Maybe because it wasn't developed by some random R&D team, but rather through experimentation by generation after generation of hungry folks. Maybe it's because it reduces a meal to good, solid, basic elements that deeply satisfy. Bread is one of the oldest foods and dates back to at least Neolithic times. The practice of adding other stuff to bread can be found throughout antiquity. The ancient Greeks had a flatbread that was eaten with toppings that probably included herbs, onions and garlic. And in Virgil's epic poem The Aenied (written, oh, about 19 B.C.E.), he refers to bread as an edible plate. Talk about a long, slow, trend movement. Love that. Now, if you want to taste a benchmark, you may wish to go to Italy, where, it turns out, they waited until recently (the 1980s, just in the nick of time) to formalize some nearly ancient, deeply solid traditions. It was the feisty Neapolitans, the people in and around Naples, who brought it all into focus and format. They're a people and it's a city well-versed in good times and bad times. A lot like now. The fabled Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba in Naples is said to be the world's first pizzeria. Rumor (or history) has it that they started making the magic pie in about 1738 and sold it from an open-air stand straight through until some time in 1830, at which point they evolved into a restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating, which is where they still make and sell boatloads of extraordinary pizza to this day. What makes a perfect pizza? The Association Verace Pizza Napoletana has some pretty basic ideas--rules, actually-- that in fact do ensure that what gets called a pizza is indeed the real deal. Wood The pizza must be cooked by wood. Gas, coal or electric ovens do not conform to tradition. You never get the right blistering or that lightly smoky finish. Ingredients 00 flour, San Marzano tomatoes, all natural fior-di-latte or buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil, salt and yeast. Only fresh, all natural, nonprocessed ingredients are acceptable. Variations are fun and tasty, but for me it's a simple Neapolitan (tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil) or it's a no-go. Technique Hand-worked or low-speedmixed dough. Proper work surface (usually slab or marble) and oven temp (800 F). Cranky or even hammy show cooks not required. Review A designated representative of the association must assure that the ingredients, technique and final product conform to the tradition. Around 1830 (maybe just after the grand opening party for the indoor seating of the Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba), the French writer Alexandre Dumas described pizza as the only food of the humble people in Naples during winter, and wrote that in those days it was flavored with oil, tallow (pork fat), cheese, tomato or anchovies. All throughout Campania you see those core ingredients on happy and natural display. Their elongated tomatoes are grown in the rich volcanic soil of Vesuvius and get hung under rafters away from the rain and wind to gently dry. The arugula seems to be peeking out everywhere (on menus, that is), and the mozzarella fairly pops out of the water buffalo nearby. We have all those ingredients here--even the water buffalo. They roam along the Sierra foothills and give the milk that the folks at Bubalus, Bubalis in Gardena, Calif., turn it into oozing, milky balls. We can do it. And one good thing about this drought we seem to be facing is that dry farming, especially of delicious tomatoes, is sure to increase. On a recent trip to Italy's pizza heartland, I visited a place that sold pizza by the meter. Two toppings per nearly three-foot expanse. The place was clean and big, and the pizza, a bit thicker than that had at other places, was delicious. But clearly this could have been ground zero for bad American pizza, could have been where "concept" escaped and ran amok, producing fun and life and profits and lousy pizza; but it was still shockingly delicious. As we emerge from what has felt to many like a frightening economic nuclear winter, many of us are hopeful about what's to come. Certainly, our regional bounty of intensely flavorful foodstuffs can be part of the value systems realignment that the world really needs to address. Simple pleasures may well be priceless. And these days, simpler seems so much more right and yet so much harder to do. But so very worth the trouble. Crusty Bubbles Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar Want to have great pizza without leaving town (or region)? Go, as I often do, to Rosso. The right dough, allowed to rise (some say for 11 hours; some, 12 and 1/2) just so, with only a drizzle of olive oil, some ripe, slightly dry tomatoes and maybe some peppery arugula. Or mozzarella and tomato sauce. Not much more. 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa. 707.544.3221.--Clark Wolf Pizzeria Picco This pizzeria also offers Strauss soft-serve ice cream, making for the perfect pairing. 320 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur. 415.945.8900.--C.W. Filippi's Pizza Grotto If you just need to feed in a kid-friendly place in Napa, relax. You really can slum it after all. Filippi's is where the soccer team goes after a big game, where neighbors talk across tables about the other neighbors' divorce or the city council meeting last night, and where a kid you don't know might crawl under your table and get back to his parents at his leisure (after asking you for a bite of that garlic toast). This is one of those places decorated with black-and-white photographs of old Italian grandmothers, so you might believe you're getting just-off-the-boat-Italian rather than the corporate-approved fare that's exactly the same in their nine other Northern California locations. But who cares? Your kid gets lots of spaghetti and lots of opportunity to act like a kid, and you can always enhance the undistinguished pizza with beer or wine. Be careful when ordering water, however. One night my son and I asked for tap water and got iced water with a surprise ingredient. So when you need aqua, just say, "Tap water, please, no ice--and hold the salt." 645 First St., Napa. 707.254.9700.--Juliane Poirier Locke Azzurro Pizzeria E Enoteca I do not group this place with pizza restaurants, even though it does have the word "pizzeria" in the name. It's just too good: the service, the food, the attitude, the place. I think of it as pizza by grownups for grownups, even though I've hauled my kid in there on a few occasions, and he loves it, too. But kids are not the audience for this place. They can't appreciate the wine and beer selections. They can't grasp that it's all about excellent, relaxed and sophisticated . . . well, pizza dining. When someone told me about the manciata signature dish--salad on a hot pizza bread, folded and eaten taco-style--it sounded so lame that I put off my first visit to Azzurro entirely. Now I'm hooked. I broke down in a weak moment and ordered the spinach manciata. Amazing. Now I order it every time. Everything on the menu is good here, and the chrome-and-steel aesthetic is stylish and loudish, creating an upbeat and even boisterous atmosphere in which to sip very nice wines and very cold beers while talking to adults. 1260 Main St., Napa. 707.255.5552.--J.P .L. Pizzeria Tra Vigne It's usually a really bad sign when a commercial spot leafs through near-seasonal name changes while still hawking the same product. Thankfully, such is not the case with St. Helena's Pizzeria Tra Vigne (PTV), formerly known as lots of other pizzerias, with bloodlines and tentacles reaching into Santa Rosa, PBS and even the Food Network. A recent cross-mountain foray confirmed that it's still possible to find top-notch, crisp and chewy, woodfire-blistered pizza amid the vines and hydrangeas of way expensive Napa Valley. And to think PTV hasn't even changed names since the last visit. At $12.95 the spicy and sweet saucy tang of PVT's 12-inch margherita comes equipped with both scorched and bubbly mozzarella and a side of fresh coarsely chopped basil. The sight before first bite reminds that though this earth be round, heaven is molten stuff on crisp flat bread. Drop by in nice weather and accompany your fare with a bit of dappled sunshine on the restaurant's adjacent deck. Or have a beer after work with a game of stick and round ball on the big screen. Though PTV may seem all melting cheeses, upscale veggies and pricey meats strategically placed upon a scientifically sound surface of baked starch and gluten, the proprietors appreciate that humankind lives not on hot pies alone. They serve up a mean piadine, for example, which, while also an oven baked flatbread with salad placed topside, does have a catchy and distinctive name and is technically no pie. I think. 1016 Main St. (Highway 29), St. Helena. 707.967.9999.--P Joseph Potocki . 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN 25 26 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 27 Napa Smith Beers Make Food Taste Better 28 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN earth in upheaval auto repair(.com) Thirty Nine Years of Quality Service Thank you for voting us Best Auto Repair Shop of 2009 - honorable mention Mercedes Benz � Volvo � Lexus BMW � Toyota � Honda � Subaru an unusual name with unusual excellence Monday thru Saturday 823.3777 523.3777 RENTAL CARS AVAILABLE 198 S. High Street � Sebastopol THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 29 Big thanks & Grazie Best Italian Restaurant honorable Best Romantic Dinner Best Place to Rekindle a love affair 707.542.5800 � 835 Second Street � Santa Rosa � www.cabianca.com a new era of cuisine and winemaking with romantic sunsets Special four-course, pre fixe menu for $29.95 "Pasta King" buffet Italian menu on Mon & Wed, 5pm�8pm Thurs Nights: "Locals Night" --No corkage fee Corks Hours: Thurs�Sun 5pm�9pm Serving Lunch: Sat�Sun 11:30am�2:30pm Tasting Room: 7 days a week 11:30am�4:30pm 5700 Gravenstein Hwy N Forestville For Reservations, Call 707-887-3344 visit russianrivervineyards.com for menu updates 30 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN Hand-Crafted Bfrom around the world rews &Tasty Pub Grub Thursday, April 23 @ 8:30pm DJ Tyler spins Chill Reggae Jennifer Tucker Acoustic Folk Rock Saturday, April 25 @ 8:30pm Friday, April 24 @ 7:00pm Live Music 707.874.9037 | www.barleynhops.com 3688 Bohemian Highway, Occidental THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 31 E Wednesday very BBQ O y ste rs $ 1 .5 0 e ach - f ro m 5 pm until w e 're o ut! 610 T hird S treet S anta R osa, C 95404 ~ 707-523-3060 A TM 32 vivacocolat.com 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN ith our restaurant reviews on temporary hiatus, we hunger to let you know more about some new spots recently opened. W a/k/a Bistro Substantial meat and pasta offerings with a good nod to vegetarians at this full-service bistro. 1320 Main St., St. Helena. 707.967.8111. Barley & Hops Tavern Old-style pub fare with a terrifically modern nod toward vegetarian beer lovers. 3688 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental. 707.874.9037. Bluegrass Bar & Grill Beef and whiskey make a mild roar above the creek. 14301 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 707.935.4488. Blue Skies Cafe Jessie and Laurent Boucher of Jessie and Laurent Catering open a brick and mortar devoted to breakfast and lunch employing clients of the Buckelew Center. Health and Wellness Campus, 3240 Kerner Blvd., San Rafael. Cottage Eatery Mediterranean-influenced bistro and comfort food. 114 Main St., Tiburon. 415.789.5636. DreamFarm San Anselmo's esteemed Fork has revamped itself; same owners. 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo. 415.453.9898. Jack & Tony's Whiskey Bar Classic comfort food washed down with plenty of whiskey. 115 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707.526.4347. Le Garage Bistro French cafe that rages with the brunch crowd and is difficult enough to find that is fairly tourist-free. 85 Liberty Ship Way, Ste. 109, Sausalito. 415.332.5625. Rendez Vous Bistro Classic French, replete with outdoor cafe dining adjacent to the downtown Square. |614 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707.526.7700. Rumi Kebobs, steak and seafood in a Persian and Middle Eastern style. Located in the space formerly host to El ReyPakal and Bamyan. 227 Third St., San Rafael. 415.455.9797. Table Cafe Seasonal, organic and manna for dosa fanatics. 1167 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur. 415.461.6787. Terrapin Creek Seasonal California cuisine with an emphasis on the nearby sea. 1580 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay. 707.875.2700. Whipper Snapper Fourth Street continues to melt the pot, this time with Caribbean and Spanish flavors. 1613 Fourth St., San Rafael. 415.256.1818. BAND EVENTS Fri April 24 � 6�10pm � cover TUDO BEM Sat April 25 � Starts at 6pm � cover BAD TRANSFER Sat May 3 �call for time � cover MAY MEL�E & BLUES DEFENDERS Fri May 8 � 6�10pm � $5 BROTHER CAT www.brothercatmusic.com Sat May 9 � 6�10pm � $6 THE POYNTLYSS SISTARS www.myspace.com/poyntlyss Gretchen Giles Swimming Pool Open to Public � Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner � Brunch on Weekends � Full Bar � Live Bands 707.869.0821 | 14540 Canyon 2, Rio Nido www.rionidoroadhouse.com THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 33 North County Delicious Homemade Food! 6761 Sebastopol Ave, Sebastopol 707.829.6600 Wi-Fi inside � Events � Parties West County Rent our charming space for your next party. TOYO Japanese Cuisine Taste the divine excellence Happy Mother's Day YELP.com NOW SERVING SAKI BOMBS 707-527-8871 � 3082 Marlow Rd. B-3 Santa Rosa � Corner of Marlow & Piner OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK! SAKE/WINE/BEER � Catering & Food To-Go #### East County BREAKFAST � LUNCH � DINNER WEEKEND BRUNCH NIGHTLY DINNER SPECIALS EXTENSIVE WINE SELECTION NATURAL & ORGANIC INGREDIENTS Open 7am-10pm Daily 4 1 5 . 4 6 0. 2 1 6 0 1900 Sir Francis Drake Blvd. Fairfax, California Mid County Upvalley 34 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN S o, why don't we get a better deal on wine purchased at the winery? It's a naive question, but it's springtime and we're awash in freshness, so let's ask it. After all, if the wine is made, bottled and sold in the very same place, sometimes a few yards from the vineyard, and if we truck ourselves there, pay the freight to take it away, and markup is 100 percent after they sell the bottle to Greedo's Liquor & Spirits Distributors for $16--why am I paying $32? The answer is as simple and as complicated as why tomatoes cost more at the farmers market. One reason given is that wineries can't "undercut" their distributors, although he who weeps for liquor distributors--who have near monopolies in some states--is truly too sensitive for this cruel world. A better reason is that small, family wineries rely on direct sales to stay in business. OK, what about the biggies owned by beer behemoths who are slinging hundreds of thousands of cases at wholesalers across the nation? Onsite sales are probably funding the operation of the selfsame retail destination. And around we go again. I thought I'd found the mother lode when I misread a recent advertisement for Sunc� Winery: 50 percent off for Sonoma County residents. The fine print, they told me, described a holiday promotion on certain wines when patrons donated a toy for tots. What Sunc� does have are bargain bins that are rotated every month--a reason to stop by regularly. Right now, the best value is a toothsome and tannic 2004 Russian River Valley Merlot for $14. Sunc� is a casual, locals-friendly spot with a farmstead location just west of Santa Rosa, bocce ball court and picnic tables. Napa wineries that participate in the Napa Neighbors program offer complimentary tasting for residents, and wine discounts up to a truly neighborly 30 percent. In Sonoma County, an unofficial program is sometimes in effect. Shooting the breeze on a slow afternoon often leads to a waived fee, and for those in the wine-food matrix, a 30 percent discount. Don't assume this, of course; just ask about the fee while reaching purposefully for wallet, because every dollar the tasting room brings in is a reason your new friend has a job. The truth is, a better deal can often be found at a discounter a few miles further down the road, like Santa Rosa's Bottle Barn. With prices $5 and less than suggested retail, it's hard get excited about that waived tasting fee with purchase under the circumstances. One afternoon shortly after a regional wine event, I was lined up to check out at Traverso's, the landmark deli that carries a great selection, moderately priced with a sprinkling of bargains, when I was nearly elbowed by a guy who frenziedly dove away from the counter back to the shelves. Unfazed, I could see the out-of-towner was merely in a state of distraction, jealously clutching his rare, precious flasks of Flowers and Radio-Coteau with sweaty palms. I guess if there's any relief for resident wine fans, it's this: We're not him. Sunc� Winery, 1839 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa. 707.526.9463. Bottle Bard, 3331 Industrial Drive, Ste. A, Santa Rosa. 707.528.1161. Escape to Sonoma Coast's only Seaside Wine Bar & Bottle Shop Downvalley Open Thurs - Tues 11am-7pm | Fri and Sat til 8pm 707.875.9875 913 Highway One, Bodega Bay, CA www.gourmetaubay.com James Knight THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 35 paid advertising section art and art crimes by Call Today to Advertise! 707.527.1200 email@example.com Art & Nature Gatehouse Gallery Nick Marzullo nickmarz.com 707.226.5991 www.dirosapreserve.org Contemporary/Museum Framing Conceptual Art Gallery RIVERFRONT ART GALLERY 6671 Front St/Hwy 116 Downtown Forestville 707-887-0799 11-6 Thurs�Mon (closed Tues & Weds) Align Yourself with Health Quality chiropractic care for managing chronic and acute pain. � sports injuries Daily � pediatrics drop-in clinic � auto accidents no appts. needed � pregnancy / post-partum discomforts 707.473.9600 707.474.9600 www.hammerfriar.com 132 PETALUMA BLVD. NORTH, DOWNTOWN PETALUMA WWW.RIVERFRONTARTGALLERY.COM quicksilvermineco.com 707-778-4ART(4278) Re Contemporary Japanese Prints 707.875.2922 features the one day makeover DESIGN D E C O R AT E ACCESSORIZE COLOR Jake Quihuis, DC 1819 Fourth Street � Santa Rosa Recession proof design for your home. 707-523-9850 415.899.9798 firstname.lastname@example.org ART FOOD MUSIC SUMMER! Sebastopol Gallery 150 N. Main St. Sebastopol, CA 707.829.7200 Daily 11-6 1781 Hwy 1, Bodega Bay www.renbrown.com sebastopol-gallery.com unique art & quality custom framing Greatful Dead Memorabilia 110 North Main St., Sebastopol, CA Around the World email@example.com O Locally Made: treehouse 28 clothing 707.829.ROCK (7624) O Artwork, Collectibles & More O Fine Gems & Minerals from new owner new equipment new art 6984 McKinley Ave Sebastopol (beside Whole Foods) 7 0 7. 8 2 3 .19 7 1 36 04.22.09-04.28.09 THE BOHEMIAN Peter Downey and Allison Marcom play at love. `You're Perfect, Now Change' is silly fun By David Templeton hat do you say we skip the first, second and third dates and go straight to the sex?" So suggests a time-conscious young woman, meeting a man on a blind date in the opening moments of I Love You, You're Perfect, Now Change, the long-running Off-Broadway confection that just opened a four-week run at Santa Rosa's Sixth Street Playhouse. In the very funny show-starting bit, the couple (Allison Marcom and Peter Downey), obviously attracted to each other but aware of the many pitfalls of modern romance, keep skipping ahead through their relationship, from first sex to first argument, to their ultimate painful breakup and eventual accidental meeting on the streets (when he'll have a date and she won't), where they both realize they were never really right for each other. "What a great date," the woman sighs as they both part ways. If Saturday Night Live was reworked as a musical and had an episode devoted entirely to sketches and songs about love and sex, that episode could be this play, a fairly plotless series of songs (most of them incredibly clever) and sketches (some brilliant, some less so), all tracing homo sapien love from the complicated rituals of dating, sex and commitment on into marriage, parenthood, divorce and old age. The show ran for more than a decade in New York, and is now finally trickling down to the regional, college and community theater level, where it will likely be popular for the next decade. In the Sixth Street production, under the spirited direction of Nancy Prebilich, with fine musical direction by Chris Alexander, the strong cast of four tackle each new segment with energy, invention and considerable singing chops. Joining Allison Marcom (featured in past Sixth Street productions of Sweet Charity, Bye-Bye Birdie and The Music Man) and Peter Downey (Oklahoma) are two newcomers to this stage, Patrick Barresi and Amie Shapiro. Together, they form a seamless, well-balanced ensemble unit (though the microphone levels could have been better balanced on the night I saw it; it was hard to hear all four performers when they sang together). Backed up with a firstrate musical ensemble, the show is mostly light, confectionery entertainment with a potent strain of seriousness and not-too-subtle heartache running beneath the silly setups and goof ball rhymes. And oh, those rhymes! As written by Joe DePietro and Jimmy Roberts, the song lyrics are frequently hilarious. In an early bit where two couples endure the endlessly boring first-date chatter of their dinner partners, the line "I can't believe he's talking still" is rhymed with "I'm gonna need a scotch refill!" In the second act's show-stopping country-western number "Always a Bridesmaid, Never a Bride," where a serial bridesmaid sings about all the horrible dresses she's collected, the word "satin" ends up paired with "makes me look fat in," "taffeta" pairs with "laugh at ya," and "velourish" (is that even a word?) is rhymed with "whorish." The rhymes are strong even in the less goofy songs, such as the yearning "I Will Be Loved Tonight," sung by a young woman who may have just landed a date with the love of her life, which carries the lovely lyric, "So let darkness come, 'cause that will be fine / For I'll have a soul entangled in mine." Of the nonmusical bits, the best are a first-act routine about a poor guy suffering through a date-night, chick-flick movie; a crudely clever sketch about a law firm specializing in suing lovers for not sexually satisfying their partners; and a strong bit in which a recently divorced woman records a dating video, accidentally confessing all the things she probably shouldn't be. Not all of the comedic bits work so well, and the show has an overlong feel to it, but the slow spots never last long, and the whole thing wraps up in high-spirited fashion with the title song, with its jaunty refrain, "I keep coming back, I keep coming back." While I Love You, You're Perfect, Now Change clearly won't be everyone's cup of tea, I wouldn't be surprised if this entertaining show inspires numbers of people, those all too familiar with the addictive highs and lows of love, to keep coming back for more. `I Love You, You're Perfect, Now Change' runs Thursday�Sunday through May 10 at the Sixth Street Playhouse. Thursday�Saturday at 8pm; Sunday at 2pm. 52 W. Sixth St., Santa Rosa. $14�$30. 707.523.4185. Guys and Dolls Based on a story and characters by Damon Runyon Music and Lyrics by Frank Loesser Book by Jo Swerling and Abe Burrows Curtain at 8pm, *2pm and **3pm Curtain at 8pm, *2pm and **3pm Burbank Auditorium Burbank Auditorium 1501 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa 1501 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa Tickets Online at Tickets Online at www.santarosa.edu/theatrearts www.santarosa.edu/theatrearts All Seats $5 for Saturday Matinee on April 25 ONLY All Seats $5 for Saturday Matinee on April 25 ONLY Directed by Wendy Wisely Directed by Wendy Wisely Choreographed by Lara Branen Choreographed by Lara Branen Rembrandt V an Rijn Sordid and Sacred: The Beggars in Rembrandt's Etchings April 18th thru June 7th, 2009 Organized by Landau Traveling Exhibitions of Los Angeles, CA Lecture with Ann Wiklund Rembrandt: His Life, His Art, His World Friday, April 24th, 2009 at 7:00 p.m. and Gestures of Compassion: see more at the Al Farrow's Beggars curated by Chester Arnold SONOMA VALLEY MUSEUM of ART 551 Broadway Sonoma, CA 95476 www.svma.org Open Wednesdays - Sundays: 11:00 am - 5:00 pm Photo by Jeff Thomas THE BOHEMIAN 04.22.09-04.28.09 37 FUNCTIONAL ART madre maman �itimaman mamma apumoder Jewelry for Her amma ok� san a mater mutter 146 N. Main St., Sebastopol 707.829.3036 ~ Daily 10:30 to 6:00pm, Sun until 5pm artisanafunctionalart.com A Feast of Color Embroidery and Painting from the Villages of India April 2 � June 7, 2009 An exhibition of textiles from Northern India, curated by Gwen Dhesi assisted by Pradumna Tana and Gay Dawson, and a selection of Mithila Paintings from the collection of Malini Bakshi and Pink Mango. Saturday, May 2, 2 p.m. Folk Embroideries from Gujarat and Punjab, Lecture by Pradumna Tana FARM TOOLS � PRIMITIVES � VINTAGE JEWELRY � LIGHTING � KITCHEN TOOLS � FURNITURE OF ALL STYLES � DECOR � BOOKS AND PAPER � ART POTTERY � GARDEN ANTIQUES � As a bleak winter delivered chills, the women & men agreed on a coping strategy! Saturday, May 9, 4 p.m. The Tradition of Mithila Painting, Lecture by Malini Bakshi Sponsors Sonoma Bank, Amazon Wakani, Beverly Malpas, Christa Valentin, Kindred Fair Trade Handcrafts ARTS & CRAFTS � MISSION � MODERN � EURO COUNTRY � MOD � CALIFORNIA PETALUMA ARTS CENTER 707.762.5600, 230 Lakeville Street, Petaluma Hours: Thursday--Monday, Noon--4 p.m. (closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays) www.PetalumaArtsCouncil.org 20 years of frien dly, inspired shop ping! "LET'S BROWSE THE DELIGHTFULLY INEXPENSIVE FINDS & USEFUL WARES OF OVER 100 ANTIQUE DEALERS!" 2661 Gravenstein Hwy So. (Hwy 116) www.antiquesociety.com 3 miles south of Downtown Sebastopol. 707.829.1733 Open daily! THE BOHEMIAN � GARDEN ANTIQUES � GLASS � ARCHITECTURAL ITEMS � FRUIT CRATE LABELS � DOLLS & TOYS � 04.22.09-04.28.09 38 Polar bear cubs are easy to love. But to save? `Disney's Earth' falls prey to the usual mawkishness By Richard von Busack reminder that Disney's Earth is an event, not a movie, comes right away; it's during the coming attractions for the sequel Disney's Ocean, slated for Earth Day 2010. Here are small-screen excerpts from Disney's nature shorts of the 1940s� '60s; here are reminders of the eight Oscars Disney's won in a format in which "nature writes the screenplay" (though this comment is as open to argument as the statement "Disneyland is the Magic Kingdom"). The Discovery Channel and BBC collaborated on Disney's Earth, but it is very much Disney's movie. It begins with James Earl Jones rumbling on the soundtrack as the sunrise is viewed from outer space. Holding the series of critter encounters together is the plight of a polar bear family--"Dad," "Mom" and two cubs during the course of a year. We keep returning to these bruins, in a documentary in which man never appears. The more stunning small effects are what's worthwhile. Disney's Earth has fine trees. Remarkable new time-lapse photography pans gently across a valley, while observing the yearly change of a forest of deciduous trees from bare branches to scarlet leaves. Peaceful moments don't sell, and what's a movie without conflict, anyway? From the "Nature Is Scary" files, we find shark vs. seal, polar bear vs. walrus, lions vs. elephant and cheetah vs. gazelle. The last of these battles, while bloodless, is almost pornography. The herbivore succumbs as much as she is killed, in ultra slow motion. One feels bad about the outcome, but not that bad. As Orwell wrote, "You can't look at a gazelle's hindquarters without thinking of mint sauce." Disney's primacy in nature documentaries is a subject Neil Gabler examines in his recent biography of Walt Disney. In the 1940s, Disney had an encounter with Stanford president David Starr Jordan, an expert on the fur-seal territory debate between Japan and Russia. Thus, Disney decided to make a documentary on the seal islands of the North Pacific. Disney's inspiration was to cut out most of the human factor: "More seals," he kept cabling to the photographers in the Arctic. RKO Studios, Disney's regular distributor, didn't see the percentage in it. Neither did Roy Disney, Walt's partner and brother: "Who wants to look at seals playing house on a bare rock?" Hindsight shows how many people did. Gabler writes, "Seal Island would become the model not only for Disney documentaries but for nature documentaries generally: a strong plot, anthropomorphized animals with emotions imputed into them, and a musical track . . . which made the documentaries into real-life cartoons." And so forth, on to the non-Disney hit March of the Penguins. Disney's Earth sticks with the successful formula. When we see a pride of lions lapping water together, their heads squeezed closer by a telescopic lens, they look as conspiratorial as the C