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Methow Valley Summer 2010
Rockspeak: Elevate your terminology
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By Paul Butler
he pastime of defying gravity via clawing upward, hopefully, on a chunk of rock is a popular one in the Methow Valley and the surrounding North Cascades mountains. From cliffs and escarpments on the valley floor to ragged granite spires piercing the sky above mountain passes, the Methow Valley offers excellent access to a variety of climbing possibilities. Climbing, in all its variations, is often misunderstood to one degree or another. It is common for the uninitiated to wonder, “Just how do they get those ropes up there?� Given that climbing has a rich history around these parts and that the sport can be a bit obtuse for those not in the know, defining some common climbing terms could be handy, especially if you end up conversing with a real honest-togoodness climber. Aid climbing: A method of ascension by which a leader steps in
inordinate amount of time. Approach: The path or route that one follows, or attempts to, in order to reach the base (or starting point) of the actual climbing. Some climbing efforts never get past the approach part. Belay: The act of safeguarding a climber using a rope and a friction device (or one’s hips) in case of a fall. Descent: The path or route by which one goes down from whatever he just climbed; this often involves rappelling, down-climbing and traveling in the darkness. Fixed gear: Climbing gear that is permanently attached to the rock. Photo by Paul Butler
A climber on belay seconds a pitch near the top of the popular Beckey Route on Liberty Bell Mountain. slings, pulls on gear and implements other such means and trickery to move upwards.
Anchor: Usually a bomber protection point, from which a climber belays, rappels or spends an
Free climbing: A common method of roped climbing, where one ascends using only hands, feet and other body parts. The rope and gear are only used in the case of a fall.