14) Treat the seam with a serger or zigzag stitch, or it will be an ugly mess. Turn skirt right side out.
16) Using a seam ripper, rip out about 1.5 to 2" of casing seam near side stitching. Cut a piece of 1" non-roll elastic about an inch shorter than actual waist size. Hint: stretch out the elastic to «break it in» before cutting it, as it gets more stretchy with use. Attach a large safety pin (I use a diaper pin) to end of elastic and draw it all the way through casing, easing the gathers around the waistband. Take care not to let the tail end of the elastic get drawn through as well - or you’ll have to start all over!
15) Topstitch seam where gathers and waistband meet, taking care to ensure that the bulky seam underneath is facing UP so it gets caught in the topstitching. This will make your seam lie much more flat. As you are topstitching, make sure that you are using both hands to pull the two fabrics apart so that the true stitching line is seen and you won’t have any bubbly and wobbly problems with your topstitching. Go slowly and carefully, as it can be a little tricky to sew over the bulky seam underneath.
18) To stitch the casing shut, make sure elastic is where it should be and the loose ends of the casing are where they should be. Position the needle over the point where the stitching was ripped out, backstitching over a little of the existing seam. Gently pull elastic tight in that area using both your hands, so that the casing area to be stitched has no wrinkles or gathers. Carefully stitch casing all the way closed, backstitching at the point where original stitching starts up again. 19) For the hem, turn under about 1/4" (or less, if it’s not too tricky) all the way around the bottom edge.
17) Lap one end of the elastic over the other end about 1 inch, and stitch back and forth a few times over the lapped edges as shown. Insert elastic and adjust so that it is fully inside the casing and all the gathers are distributed evenly around waistband. If possible, make sure that it’s a good fit on your little girl. Readjust length of elastic if necessary.
20) Turn under one more time, so that the raw edge is completely hidden. 21) Stitch hem, making sure that needle catches the folded-under edge underneath. Press hem...and you’re done! Unless you want to add some ribbon embellishments. If so, follow the instructions: http://7layerstudio.typepad.com/7_ layer_studio/2008/10/twirly-skirttutorial---at-last.html
This is what the completed topstitching will look like.
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