HIGH ‘HO’: Progressive urban planning in Ho Chi Minh have created more contemporary structures that give Vietnam a global atmosphere.
SLEEPLESS IN SAIGON DANIEL ALLEN samples the treasures of Vietnam’s Pearl of the Orient. At night, from the helipad of Ho Chi Minh City’s soaring Bitexco Financial Tower, the urban landscape is a shimmering sea of light. An incessant flow of traffic streams through the recently opened Saigon River Tunnel, only to reemerge in the Thu Thiem New Urban Area, soon to be populated with more shiny skyscrapers. While stories of Vietnam’s economic problems abound, there’s little evidence of stagnation in this vibrant, bustling metropolis. “It might be a cliché, but Ho Chi Minh City truly never sleeps,” says expat Brit Craig Derbyshire, in town to oversee the imminent opening of a swanky five-story cocktail bar and eatery high up in the hightech Bitexco edifice. “People here work hard and they play hard. Saigon residents certainly don’t need any lesson on how to let their hair down.” Ho Chi Minh City, still commonly known by its former, colonial-era name of Saigon, is the southern epicenter of Vietnam and the country’s business
capital. After the ravages of the Vietnam War, Saigon lay in the doldrums for years, but in the 1990s it gradually returned to life, and is now considered one of Southeast Asia’s most dynamic cities. Today, the one-time “Pearl of the Orient” has more than regained its luster. Modern Saigon is a shopper’s paradise. Prices are higher than elsewhere in Vietnam, but the selection is far more sophisticated. The city’s cosmopolitan atmosphere makes it easier to shop, meaning that shop owners, especially in more upscale boutiques, aren’t immediately pressuring browsers for sales. A stroll along central Saigon’s Dong Khoi Street takes visitors past colonial-era landmarks and dozens of interesting new boutiques. Plunge into the covered Ben Thanh Market, where vendors offer everything from fruit and fresh-cut flowers to traditional handicrafts to imported electronics and cosmetics. Or head for Cholon—the city’s ancient Chinatown—and dive into the thriving rabbit warren of narrow lanes, bustling markets, and flamboyantly colorful Chinese pagodas.
PORTRAIT OF A PEOPLE The Vietnamese are hardworking, modest, and friendly, but they are often quite shy. Many will not look directly into your eyes when they talk to you, which traditionally is a sign of respect and politeness. Most urban Vietnamese no longer bow when they meet each other, but in formal gatherings, at religious places, and sometimes in rural areas, you will see people clasp their hands together in a prayer-like gesture and bow slightly. When calling Vietnamese people, do so quietly— waving or beckoning with an upturned finger is considered impolite.
COFFEE HAVEN: Vietnam is the second largest coffee exporter after Brazil, specializing in full-bodied robusta coffee beans. 32 I Mabuhay Magazine I May 2012