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The European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC) is the only European agro-industrial organization federating all the stages of production and transformation for linen & hemp. It oversees the fiber’s development from plant to finished product. Created in 1951, privileged spokesperson for 10 000 European companies, the CELC incites reflection, market analyses, industry concertation and strategic orientations. With its CELC MASTERS OF LINEN promotional platforms, the confederation creates an ideal competitive context for industry companies. Its actions stimulate innovation and rely on the value of these natural fibers with their proven environmental qualities : > through its Textile Pole for fashion, home and lifestyle > through its Technical Pole for new technical opportunities such as eco-construction and high-performing composite products. The Linen Dream Lab is a showroom dedicated to creativity and to textile or technical innovations. It offers services to innovators in the fashion, lifestyle and design industries > accompaniment in creation & aid in sourcing > publication of trend books and prototype fashion & home fabrics > material, yarn and fabric library > a space for private meetings. LINEN DREAM LAB PARIS 15, rue du Louvre – 75001 Paris – Tel +33 (0)1 42 21 06 83 LINEN DREAM LAB MILAN Via Orti 2 – 20122 Milano – Tel +39 02 55 18 16 45 trends@mastersoflinen.com

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH THE PARTICIPATION OF THE THEEUROPEAN PARTICIPATION OF THE UNION AND FRANCE EUROPEAN UNION AND FRANCE

Linen Directions Fall-Winter 2012-13

Linen Directions Fall-Winter 2012-13

447 C

Linen – a living, vibrant fiber whose strength lies in its capacity for assimilation, even absorption! Absorbing past heritage and refashioning it in new, innovative forms, backed by the R&D of an entire industry. Absorbing color with its tinctorial qualities. Absorbing light to the point of making it palpable. Absorbing other fibers to reveal their essence, but never losing its hand! Linen – versatile and functional, it creates an impulsion and readily submits to these confrontations. The challenge? Reveal and relay, convey and throw off course; recognize an impression to better stray. Linen – between visionary future and traditional know-how, it exposes its preference for an uninterrupted dialogue, where imagination, emotion and reality collide. An exalted combination daring to invoke creative duels, disturbing and inciting the designer to innovate and transmit. So emerges a new energy. Textures in MUTATION between light and shadow or flirting with 3D effects; sensorial mixes in total CON-FUSION; crystalline transparency in perpetual EVOLUTION. Surprising, tactile winter linens – pure inspirational sourcing for your Fall/Winter 2012/13 collections!

La force du lin, fibre vivante et vibrante, réside dans sa capacité d’assimilation, voire d’absorption ! Absorber l’héritage du passé pour le restituer aujourd’hui sous des formes innovantes grâce à la R&D de toute une filière. Absorber la couleur par ses qualités tinctoriales. Absorber la lumière jusqu’à la rendre tactile. Absorber, enfin, d’autres fibres pour en restituer l’essence, tout en gardant la main ! Fibre versatile et fusionnelle, le lin donne l’impulsion et se plie au jeu de ces confrontations. L’enjeu ? Révéler et relayer, traduire et dérouter ; reconnaître une empreinte pour mieux s’en éloigner. Entre futur visionnaire et diffusion des savoir-faire, il affiche son goût pour un dialogue ininterrompu où s’entrechoquent imaginaires, émotions et réalités. Une combinaison qui ose mettre en place des duels créatifs et bouscule le designer pour l’inciter à innover et à transmettre.

La forza del lino, fibra viva e vibrante, sta nella sua capacità di assimilazione e di integrazione! Assorbire l’eredità del passato per restituirlo oggi con forme innovative, grazie alla R&D di tutta la filiera. Assorbire il colore in tutta la sua qualità tintoriale. Assimilare la luce fino a renderla tattile. Integrare altre fibre per restituirne l’essenza ed il tatto! Fibra versatile e flessibile. Il lino dà impulso e si adegua al gioco del confronto. La sfida? Rivelare e collegare, tradurre e dirottare, riconoscere un’impronta per meglio scostarsi. Tra futuro visionario e diffusione del saper fare, esprime il suo gusto per un dialogo ininterrotto in cui si scontrano immaginazione, emozioni e realtà. Un abbinamento che osa dar vita a sfide creative e stimola il designer a innovare e a trasmettere. Emerge allora una nuova energia. Armature in MUTAZIONE tra ombra e luce o effetti 3D; emozioni sensoriali in piena CON-FUSIONE; trasparenze cristalline in costante EVOLUZIONE; lini d’inverno tattili e sorprendenti come fonte d’ispirazione per le vostre collezioni Autunno-Inverno 2012-13!

19-4305 TC

1815 C

19-1331 TC

729 C

437 C

17-1410 TC

209 C

19-1557 TC

5565 C

16-4408 TC

534 C

19-3921 TC

173 C

18-1448 TC

5285 C

17-3917 TC

497 C

19-1619 TC

200 C

19-1764 TC

466 C

15-1215 TC

7432 C

17-1818 TC

White

11-0104 TC

7475 C

18-4728 TC

7499 C

11-0205 TC

Warm Gray 7 C

Black 7 C

17-1500 TC

19-0506 TC

5275 C

19-3926 TC

8321 C

18-6216 TC

5803 C

14-6308 TC

7497 C

18-0312 TC

1255 C

17-0843 TC

7520 C

13-1405 TC

5195 C

19-3410 TC

445 C

19-4906 TC

Cool Gray 5 C

Pantone®, Pantone Textile Colour System® and Pantone formula guide coated/ uncoated are trademarks of Pantone, Inc. ©Pantone Inc., 1984-1992.

Emerge alors une énergie nouvelle. Textures en MUTATION entre ombre et lumière ou effet 3D ; télescopages sensoriels en pleine CON-FUSION ; transparences cristallines en EVOLUTION perpétuelle ; des lins d’hiver tactiles et surprenants comme sourcing d’inspiration pour vos collections Automne/Hiver 2012/13 !

16-1235 TC

The Pantone reference numbers shown herein represent the Pantone Colours most closely related to the colours displayed. Colour reproduction may not match Pantone®-identified textile and coated

15-4101 TC

PUBLISHING DIRECTOR CELC MASTERS OF LINEN Marie-Emmanuelle Belzung

WITH LINEN DIRECTIONS TEAM TRENDS: ELEMENTI MODA Ornella Bignami

LINEN DIRECTIONS COORDINATOR CELC MASTERS OF LINEN Marie Demaegdt

TEXTILE DESIGN: Daniele Aliverti Daniel Henry TEXTS Catherine Dauriac

colours standards. Refer to curent Pantone® publications for accurate colour standards. All rights reserved. Any reproduction even partial, is strictly forbidden in all countries.

DESIGN DIRECTION Frédéric Rey PRINTING Utim, Imprim’Vert® AGENCY

Villadalésia & Co

Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13

MUTATION

Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13

Essential Protection

1

2

Compact

3

6

4

5

Textured

7

“Art-eology” Memory

8

10

9

Contrast Decorative

11

14

Interlaced

12

13

Traces, interlacing yarns and fibers: contemporary winter linens metamorphose light and shade into tactile, living material. The emotional palette plays on a cold partition of colored shadows blurring into the mists. Essential — compact, heavy fabrics with classic textures in linen/wool/ PA blends — Jacquard jerseys with regular textures, marled/solid double-faces — marled linens for shirting weights — eco-friendly & protective coated linens

— smooth/textured contrasts — crinkled, washed aspects for Japanese style yarn-dyes Decorative — embroidered and overdyed double-faces, random graphic effects — double-face Jacquard jerseys — woven or knit tubular Jacquard for quilted effects — boiled or felted linen/wool blends Full, enveloping volumes; materials with a memory form a silhouette embodying archaic neo-dandyism.

Textured — rough textures, 3D relief in linen chenille

1

Dario Cogliati

10, 11

Pietre Sonore, Pinuccio Sciola

2

« Light-dark » by Daan-Amsterdam

12

Double face, created by Elementi Moda

3

Lanvin

13

Felted overprinted linen blend by Inseta

4

Eco-bonded linen weave+jersey

14

Cristiano Ravalli

by Seidra + Eurofiniss

15

Kenzo

5, 6

Frédéric Rey

16, recto Arnaldo Pomodoro

7

Eco-coated linen

Una battaglia: per i partigiani, 1971

by Larusmiani + Lacote

bronze and steel (detail)

8

America

9

Levi van Veluw Veneer II 2009

16

15

Empreintes, entrelacs de fils et de fibres, les lins d’hiver contemporains métamorphosent l’ombre et la lumière en matière tactile. La gamme, émotionnelle, joue une partition froide d’ombres colorisées fondues dans le brouillard. Essentiels — tissus compacts, lourds, aux textures classiques en mélanges Lin-Laine-PA. — jerseys jacquard réguliers, double-face chiné/uni — lins chinés poids chemise — lins enduits éco & protecteurs Texturés — textures “rough”, reliefs 3D en lin chenille — contrastes lisses/reliéfés

447 C

17

Impronte, intrecci di fili e di fibre, i lini d’inverno contemporanei trasformano l’ombra e la luce in materia tattile. La gamma emotiva gioca una proposta di ombre fredde, dai toni sfumati nella nebbia.

— aspects froissés, lavés, sur tissés-teints d’esprit japonais Décoratifs — double-faces rebrodés et surimprimés, effets graphiques et aléatoires — jerseys double-face jacquard — tissus et mailles tubulaires jacquard pour effets matelassés — mélanges lin-laine, bouillis ou feutrés

Essenziali — tessuti compatti pesanti, con armature classiche in mischie lino-lana-PA — jerseys jacquard regolari, double-face chiné/unito — lini mélange peso camiceria — lini spalmati ecologici e protettivi

Des volumes amples, forcément enveloppants ; des matières à mémoire, pour incarner la silhouette d’un néo-dandysme archaïque.

19-4305 TC

534 C

19-3921 TC

Warm Gray 7 C

17-1410 TC

497 C

19-1619 TC

Black 7 C

17-1500 TC

5275 C

19-3926 TC

7497 C

18-0312 TC

Jil Sander

www.levivanveluw.com

437 C

Decorativi — double-face ricamati e sovrastampati, effetti grafici irregolari — jersey double-face jacquard — tessuti e maglie tubolari jacquard per effetti matelassé — mélange lino-lana, bolliti o infeltriti Volumi ampi, avvolgenti; materie a memoria di forma, per interpretare la silhouette di un neo-dandismo arcaico.

Strutturati — armature “irregolari”, rilievi 3D in ciniglia di lino

© Arnaldo Pomodoro Studio 17

— contrasti liscio/rilievo — aspetti stropicciati, lavati su tinti filo di stile giapponese

19-0506 TC

5195 C

19-3410 TC

Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13

CON-FUSION

Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13

Collision

1

2

Ornamental Fancy

3

4

Combinaison Double

5

Confrontation

6

7

Felted

10

Fancy — decorative gradated Jacquards in linen/wool/silk blends — heavy yarn-dyed canvas, “Chanel” type weaves in yarn mixes — multicolored stripes — marled effects Double — colorful coatings, waterproof coatings

12

— bonded jersey + woven — double knits, knits brushed on the inside Shadows — needle-punched alpaca or mohair on linen weaves for a gradated, shaded effect — textured knits, gradated stripes alternating linen and hairy yarns — linen/wool knits to be felted — blistered knits and weaves, partially felted The silhouette dominates in a disconcertingly elegant confrontation of materials, where playing the double-game is the rule.

1

Photo par Éole, www.eole.me

8

Roberto La Forgia

2

Winter linen blend panama by Inseta

9

D&G

10

Brushed herringbone, by Italtessil

Photo: Mumok © VBK Wien, 2011/

11

Missoni

Erwin Wurm

12

© Massimo Listri, Corbis

4

Stuart Haygarth

13

Yohji Yamamoto

5

Eco-bonded weave+jersey

3, recto Erwin Wurm, House attack, 2006

9

Shadows Gradated

11

Collision of colors, ideas and materials for a con-fusion to be taken literally: mixing and fusing to create “the Unexpected”. A “croma-lin(en)” palette confronting warm tones with cold naturals.

8

Libre collision d’idées, de couleurs et de matières pour une con-fusion à prendre au pied de la lettre : mélanger, fusionner, pour créer ‘Linattendu ‘ Une gamme « chroma-lin », confrontation de tons chaleureux et naturels froids Fantaisie — jacquards ornementaux en dégradé Lin-Laine-Soie — toiles lourdes en fil-teint, tissus “Chanel” en mélanges de fils — rayures multicolores — chinés Doubles — enductions colorées, enductions imperméables

13

Libero scontro di idee, colori e materiali per una con-fusione da prendere alla lettera: mescolare, fondere, per creare “Linatteso”. Una gamma “chroma-lino” confronto di toni caldi e di naturali freddi.

— contrecollage jersey+ chaîne-et-trame — mailles doubles, mailles grattées envers Ombres — aiguilletés Alpaga ou Mohair sur base Lin, effet ombré en dégradé — mailles texturées, rayures dégradées en mélange Lin fils poilus — mailles Lin-Laine à feutrer — tissus et mailles cloqués, partiellement feutrés

Fantasia — jacquards decorativi in dégradé lino-lana-seta — tele corpose tinto filo, tessuti tipo Chanel in mix di filati — righe multicolori — chinés

La silhouette s’impose dans un face-à-face des matières – d’une élégance déconcertante – où le double-jeu est la règle.

Doubles — spalmati colorati e impermeabili — tessuti accoppiati jersey+navetta

1815 C

19-1331 TC

173 C

18-1448 TC

7432 C

17-1818 TC

8321 C

18-6216 TC

209 C

19-1557 TC

200 C

19-1764 TC

7475 C

18-4728 TC

1255 C

17-0843 TC

by Seidra + Eurofiniss 6

Olivier Gerval

7

Dreamstime.com

— maglia doppia, maglia garzata a rovescio Ombre — agugliati in alpaca o mohair su base di lino, effetto ombra in dégradé — maglie strutturate, righe dégradé in mischia di lino con filati pelosi — maglie lino-lana da infeltrire — tessuti e maglie rigonfiati, parzialmente infeltriti La silhouette si afferma attraverso un faccia-a-faccia di materie – di un’eleganza sconcertante – dove il doppio gioco è la regola.

445 C

19-4906 TC

Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13

EVOLUTION

evolution

Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13

Pure

Solid Abstract

1

2

3

Crystalline Cellular

5

Fragile

7

6

8

10

9

Kinetic

12

Setting free the imagination between innovation and abstraction for surface plays constantly in movement. A palette of pale tones and neutral pastels lit up by a light glimmer of winter sun. Solid — compact weaves in shiny or matte linen/silk, linen/wool Fragile — delicate cut yarns, plays of transparency & compact opacity — burn-out weaves

— evanescent prints inspired by micro-cells — linen/Pa lace knits Kinetic — pleated effects in movement — gradated stripes and geometric optical effects Between fluidity and crystalline hardness, a futurist silhouette is constructed from a play of layered transparency and variable geometries.

1

Gabriele Colangelo

10

Dreamstime.com

2

© Heide Benser/Corbis

11

Anna Sui

3

Rick Owens

12

Marc Jacobs

4

Bright linen blend, by Tessiture di Nosate

13

” for Pannonflax, Fan jacquard by Anna Regos

5

Isidoros Prinos

6, 8

Frédéric Rey

14

Oda Pausma, « 29.10.2010 »

7

Gianni Pettena, Ice House / Minneapolis,

15

3D linen damask by Michele Solbiati

courtesy galerie Mercier&Associés

16

Multi-ply linen panama by Enrico Sironi

9

4

Movement Optical

13

Libérer l’imaginaire entre innovation et abstraction, pour des jeux de surfaces toujours en mouvement. Une gamme de tons pâles et de pastels neutres, illuminés par un voile de soleil d’hiver. Solidité — tissus compacts, Lin-Soie, Lin-Laine, brillants ou mats Fragilité — délicats fils coupés, jeux de transparences & opacités compactes — dévorés

11

14

15

16

Liberare la fantasia attraverso innovazione e astrazione, per giochi di superfici sempre in movimento. Una gamma di toni tenui e di pastelli neutri, illuminati da un raggio di sole invernale.

— imprimés évanescents inspirés de micro-cellules — maille dentelle Lin-Pa Cinétique — effets plissés en mouvement — rayures dégradées et géométriques à effets d’optique

Solidità — tessuti compatti in lino-seta, lino-lana, lucidi od opachi

Superposition des transparences et géométries variables construisent une silhouette futuriste, entre fluidité et dureté cristalline.

Fragilità — delicati fil coupé, giochi di trasparenze e opacità compatte. — devorati

— stampe evanescenti ispirate da micro cellule — maglia pizzo lino-PA Cinetico — effetti plissé in movimento — righe degradé e geometrie con effetto ottico Sovrapposizioni di trasparenze e geometrie mutevoli creano una silhouette futurista tra fluidità e consistenza cristallina.

coll. Art In Factory

729 C

16-1235 TC

5285 C

17-3917 TC

White

11-0104 TC

5803 C

14-6308 TC

466 C

15-1215 TC

7499 C

11-0205 TC

7520 C

13-1405 TC

Foamy linen blend knit by Hungaro-Len + Safilin + Cousy

5565 C

16-4408 TC

Cool Gray 5 C

15-4101 TC


TRANSITION FALL / WINTER 2012/2013 : LINEN DIRECTIONS