- SAX FLY ISSUE 1 / FEBRUARY – APRIL 2014
YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY
in-flight magazine
Alisha Popat
FINDING HER OWN KEY TO MUSICAL SUCCESS FoodforThought
LUCCA Worth singing about
COMPETITION
WIN A LUXURY STAY ON THE COAST See page 4 for details
MotorReview
TOYOTA PROBOX Still Kenya’s favourite
ProductReview
CHROMEBOOKS Get connected ALSO INSIDE THIS ISSUE: LATEST RELEASES • 540 NEWS • STONE TOWN GUIDE
Contents
contents
REGULAR FEATURES 03 in this issue
COVER STORY 28 Alisha popat
04 Fly-SAX NEWS 30 BUSINESSHub
Finding her own key to musical success
Kenyan wind power: a load of hot air?
32 MotorReview
Ugly duckling is still Kenya’s favourite
34 latestreleases
Coming to a screen near you...
37 ProductReview
Chromebooks – Get connected with chrome-plated innovation
39 cityguide
Stone Town
42 LOOKinside
USEFUL INFORMATION
45 FOODforthought
49 The fly SAX network
51 fly SAX fleet
issue 1
52 TRAVEL INFORMATION
Lonno Lodge
Lucca
56 kidS’ corner
Essential travel and visa information
55 fly SAX contacts is published by Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com
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on behalf of
SPECIAL FEATURES
Fly-SAX Attic Floor, Baobab Suite, Riverside Green Park PO Box 27763-00506, Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (0) 20 3535305 / +254 (0) 720 607 607 +254 (0) 705 305 305 / +254 (0) 707 305 305 Email: reservations@fly-sax.com www.fly-sax.com The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2014 Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd
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07 Zanzibar Artist
16 Whale watching
On the trail of good art in Zanzibar
Kenya’s secret marine migration
11 Billionaire Resort
22 Comoros football
opens in Malindi
the French connection
12 Kite-Surfing
24 Hatua Likoni
Hybrid water sport takes off
From Big Apple to big idea
View this issue online:
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InThisIssue
issue 1
in this issue W
elcome to the first isssue of Fly-SAX’s in-flight magazine. Our cover story features talented Kenyan songstress Alisha Popat who talks exclusively to Fly-SAX. Kenya seems set to be the new hot destination for this increasingly popular sector of the tourism
In terms of business, Fly-SAX travels to Turkana to ask whether a new wind energy project will really improve Kenya’s sometimes troubled power sector. There are plenty of foreigners in East Africa trying to help. And we applaud their efforts. Likoni is one low-income area where good work is being undertaken by an outsider.
Also at the coast, kite-surfi ng is big and getting bigger – and not just among tourists. market. It’s good to know that the Kenya Tourist Board is already on the case in promoting this marine migration. Also at the coast, kite-surfing is big and getting bigger – and not just among tourists. We visit stylish Che Shale near Malindi to gain an insight into this fast-moving and spectacular sport. Our sister carrier Fly540 operates to Zanzibar and this issue we visit the studio of a Zanzibari artist.
And for something completely different, our regular car review looks at the ultra humble Probox – a car about which every Kenyan seems to have an opinion. I hope you enjoy your flight with Fly-SAX. If you have any comments about the magazine, then please contact me at the address below. .......and look out for our super new competition on Page 4. Gary Gimson Publisher, ‘Fly-SAX’ Magazine
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LooK out For... Surf’s up: Get kiting on page 12
City Guide: On Page 39 we travel to Stone Town in Zanzibar and discover a treasure trove of cultural and culinary delights
LATEST RELEASES
In our Latest Releases section on Page 34 we look at the movie ‘American Hustle’ among others and the latest ‘must read’ books
NEWS Two new offices for Fly-SAX AND Fly540 Fly-SAX, in partnership with sister carrier Fly540, opened a new office in the Nairobi suburb of Karen in November. The new office is in the Karen Connection Complex, opposite the Vice President’s House on Karen Road. Open daily from 08.30 to 17.00 hours, it provides Karen and other nearby residents with direct access to services offered by Fly-SAX and Fly540.
International House in Nairobi’s Central Business District. The office numbers are 0712 540 540, 0735 540 555, 0717 305 305 0703 305 305. E-mail addresses are: bookings@fly540.com or bookings@fly-sax.com.
Time features Fly540 A story in the US’ Time magazine makes reference to sister carrier Fly540. Time states that Fly540 still operates the 4th DC-9 ever built. The plane, which was completed in 1965, has during its long life been operated by Air Canada, Hawaiian, Southern, Finnair, British Midland, Finnair (again), All Star, Midwest Express and East African Express before operating in Fly540 orange. Anyway, the aircraft still provides Fly540’s passengers with a reliable service.
Meanwhile, a second new Fly-SAX/Fly540 office opened in January on the ground floor at
Still like new Flight deck
COMPETITION
Win a luxury stay AT the coast This is your chance to win a trip to the coast courtesy of Hemingways Collection and Fly-SAX. Just send answers to the e-mail address below and you could be the lucky winner of this super prize. Hemingways Collection is a luxury chain of hotels. The company owns and operates Hemingways Watamu, located on the sparkling Watamu Beach and within Watamu Marine Park; Ol Seki Hemingways Mara, a 10-tent luxury camp in the Masai Mara; and Hemingways Nairobi, a luxurious boutique hotel in the Karen.
Questions: 1. How many properties are under the Hemingways Collection? 2. Name three properties owned by Hemingways Collection 3. Name six destinations to which Fly-SAX operates 4. Name three types of aircraft operated by Fly-SAX.
The winner will receive two nights’ accommodation for two people at the fabulous Hemingways Watamu. E-mail your answers, along with your Fly-SAX booking reference number, to: competition@landmarine.org 4
www.fly-sax.com
Competition Terms & Conditions: Closing date is 30 April 2014. Similar and subsequent competitions will run in Fly-SAX magazine throughout 2014. Only one entry per passenger. The winner will be announced on the Hemingways Collection, Fly-SAX and Land & Marine websites. The decision of the organisers will be final. The competition is not open to employees and their relatives of Hemingways Collection, Fly-SAX n or Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd.
ZanzibarArtist
By Sam Gimson
On the trail of
good art in Zanzibar
P
erched on the back of a moped, wheeling through the alleyways, Bayou, a local artist, is taking me to see his work. Amid the labyrinth of Stone Town’s backstreets, we arrive at the gallery. Several other artists share the space, but it is easy to distinguish the work of my companion. His five or so Stone Town street scenes, painted with artificial colours and liberal use of poetic licence, present an extraordinary
vision of the town and its daily life. I ask about the history of Zanzibari art. Bayou explains: “There are not many famous artists in Tanzania, and even the good ones never really influence the people. People like pictures here, but they don’t really understand art, particularly non-realistic art. “The government cares about it, however, and Zanzibar is lucky because many leaders here were artists before they became politicians. Many were Muslim scholars,
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and before this there were many Muslim colleges which trained people in art; but now, or during the 1980s, people started to teach in a European style.”
Ever-present Surveying local tourist shops, the clichés of commercial African art – silhouette elephants and matchstick Maasai – are ever-present; but there is something uniquely Zanzibari, too: its picturesque rusticity, Arabic influence and laid-back
ZanzibarArtist atmosphere set the art of Zanzibar apart from that of the mainland. Bayou is one of those whose work reflects the spirit of the island. He tells me about his approach to painting and about the artists who inspire him: “The impressionists were using yellow to stand for light. I use colours to express feeling in the same way. For example, after rain I try to capture the puddles with pure blue acrylic.”
Colours Indeed, his layered colours bleed into one another; they stain the buildings, drench the pavements and fill the sky with yellow sunlight. Bayou continues: “In the expressionist paintings, you feel the way the paintbrush moves, from the heart to the end of the brush. Everything that I see and feel is important to me.”
After talking me through some of his paintings, Bayou is anxious to show me his sketchbook. We leave the gallery and walk down the same street towards his studio, where many of the neighbouring residences are inhabited by fellow artists. Outside, blank canvases are lined up to dry. His studio is a good size and he owns an impressive array of art books, but there is a serious lack of natural light. The sketchbooks are filled with everything from logo designs and fantastic alternative worlds to architectural plans and examples of life-drawing. It seems that Bayou’s highly imaginative sketches and the
paintings made by him to sell are treated differently.
The artist A blank canvas
Concern The problem with commercial art is that income becomes the primary concern. As though the artist were a one-man factory, the work becomes a chore, a formula in order to increase production. Bayou has not been restrained by this, however; although no doubt he tries to paint popular images, the work is still full of genuine feeling and creativity. If you are a tourist hoping to purchase art while on holiday, spare a little time to seek out the real thing.
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Art struggles to exist if it becomes financially unviable. If people are unwilling to patronise genuine art that dares to be original and expressive, and does not simply copy a winning formula, than it will perish. So support good art in Zanzibar and good art will triumph.
In the expressionist paintings, you feel the way the paintbrush moves, from the heart to the end of the brush
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BillionaireResort
biLLionaire resort OPENS IN MALINDI
T
he cover story for the very first issue of ‘540’ magazine featured plans to open a ‘Billionaire Resort’ in Malindi. Now, nearly three years later and somewhat delayed, the resort has finally opened; and it did so in good time for the usually busy Christmas season at the coast. Backed by larger-than-life Italian financier and former Formula 1 boss Flavio Briatore, owner of Malindi’s über-chic Lion in the Sun, the Billionaire Resort is exactly that – a glamorous Indian Ocean hideaway for the seriously wealthy. Briatore spent his Christmas holiday in Malindi, enjoying the delights of his new property and no doubt ensuring that the resort met his exacting standards. Keen to maintain the resort town’s upmarket image, Briatore immediately backed local moves to improve beach security, reduce beach boy harassment and provide
a regular clean-up of seaweed and litter. Earlier in 2012 Briatore had visited Malindi in conjunction with flamboyant former Italian prime minister Silvio Berlusconi, who is reported to have bought a luxury apartment within the resort complex. Since then, however, Berlusconi has had his passport confiscated by the Italian authorities, so for the time being he cannot travel to inspect his new investment.
Malindi Prime spot
Purchase Berlusconi’s purchase and the rapid sale of other properties within the resort led Briatore to consider building more apartments; he certainly has the land to do so. But what will really drive Italian investment in Malindi is the expansion of the town’s modest airport.
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Currently, Malindi cannot accept direct flights from Europe, so that Italians must either change planes in Nairobi or endure a tiring 100 km road journey from Mombasa. A longer runway and a much bigger terminal would transform Malindi and, as a consequence, bolster local property prices. So now might just be the right time to buy in Malindi. Silvio certainly thinks so.
KiteSurfing
Hybrid water sport takes off
Surf’s up, so get kiting!
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KiteSurfing
I
t’s fast and furious with a hint of derring-do. Kenya is fast becoming one of the world’s top locations for the amazing sport of kite-surfing which, as its name suggests, combines both kiting with surfing. Fly-SAX magazine spoke to Justin Aniere at Che Shale (close to Malindi) about the fast-paced sport. Here’s what Justin had to say: Fly-SAX: Why is the Kenya coast so perfect for kite-surfing?
Kiting silhouette Crazy or what?
Justin Aniere: The key points are: • Kenya enjoys 300 days of wind per year, January through October, and warm water all year round • Kenya offers kiting spots from the south coast all the way up to Lamu • Kenya hosts two kite-surf competitions every year • Kenya offers a great array of kite-surf conditions from flat water to waves and for [everyone from] beginners to experienced riders • Kenya kiting spots are uncrowded, especially when compared to other popular spots in Europe, Egypt or the Dominican Republic • Kite-surfing is gaining popularity with Kenya residents looking for active time at the coast.
Fly-SAX: Given that kite-surfing has it dangers, what safety measures are in place to protect from injury those not involved in the sport? Justin Aniere: The best way to stay safe is to learn with an instructor and to be patient and learn step by step. Do not skip the theory steps, learn how to read the weather and always ask other experienced kiters when you get to a new spot. This is not a sport that you can rush, and each person learns at his or her own pace. The equipment has improved a lot in the last 10 years and it now has lot of built-in safety features. Fly-SAX: What is the best time of the year to kite-surf at Che Shale? Justin Aniere: July through mid October and January through April. May and June are still windy, but it can be rainy. Fly-SAX: How much would a kitesurfer expect to pay for his or her equipment and can this equipment be bought in Kenya? Justin Aniere: If purchased brandnew, a complete kit (board, harness and kite) will be close to €2,000.
Kite-surfing is gaining popularity with Kenya residents looking for active time at the coast
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KiteSurfing However, in the beginning a new kiter can buy second-hand equipment at a much lower cost. There are not any retailers selling kite-surf equipment in Kenya, but there is a second-hand market. My advice is to contact kite schools at the end of the season to see if they have any equipment to sell.
yourself three days to complete a beginner’s course. Many experienced kite-surfers also come and stay at Che Shale and they tend to stay for one to two weeks and often longer during high season when conditions are very good (July and August mainly). Che Shale does not offer camping.
Fly-SAX: What types of people are kite-surfing?
Fly-SAX: How far is Che Shale from Malindi?
Justin Aniere: It started as a sport mainly practised mainly by men, it has now grown so that is enjoyed also by teenagers and women and is also becoming quite mainstream. Contrary to perception, it is not a sport that requires strength, but rather patience, technique and balance.
Justin Aniere: We are a 30-minute drive away and accessible by any type of vehicles. Taxis charge KES 2,500 one way.
Fly-SAX: Do kite-surfers come for the day or stay overnight at Che Shale? And do you have a campsite? Justin Aniere: Students who come to Che Shale to learn to kite-surf stay on average for five nights. Normally, as long as wind conditions are good, it is ideal to give
surfers hire equipment from Che Shale? Justin Aniere: All equipment is included in our kite-surf lessons and when available we offer rentals to experienced kite-surfers.
Contrary to perception, it is not a sport that requires strength, but rather patience, technique and balance Fly-SAX: There are two kite-surfing competitions in Kenya. Can you provide more details?
Fly-SAX: What are you doing to get more Kenyans involved in the sport? Justin Aniere: Our annual Kitesurf Masters competition that is held every August helps to make more Kenyans aware of the sport and how perfect Kenya is [as a place in which] to learn it. We are also very active on social media and advertise Kite+Stay packages for residents. Fly-SAX: Do you provide all the equipment for beginners and can
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Kites ď‚€ These kites are hot to handle
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Justin Aniere: Che Shale Kite Masters is held every August at Che Shale. Diani Kite Cup is held every December in Diani by H2O Extreme Kitesurf School. Both events are open to any experienced kitesurfers and they are great events for the entire family to attend and for newcomers to the sport to learn more about it. Both events raise funds for Kenyan charities.
WhaleWatching
ď ž
On the move
A humpback off the Kenyan coast
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WhaleWatching
Whale watching
Kenya’s secret marine migration Is whale watching set to become Kenya’s newest tourist attraction? It seems so.
T
he movement of whales has the potential to become Kenya’s other globally recognised migration, according to Watamu Marine Association (WMA). “Whale watching at the coast and the Mara migration could be a spectacular combined trip, as both occur in July and August,” says the WMA’s Steve Trott. In 2013 the WMA regularly reported sightings of up to 25 whales in one day. The highest number ever counted in a single
day (during 2013) was 38 from both land and sea. Yet concerns remain that this near-secret migration could become over-commercialised and have a negative impact on the whales’ annual migration and on their breeding ground. Says Steve: “We would encourage all visitors to come and see our marine mammals and enjoy watching our dolphins and whales naturally in the wild. We simply ask that they follow good guidelines. So please don’t chase
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mothers and calves, and don’t make unnecessary noise or try and feed the animals. Keep a respectful distance of at least 50 metres. And although everyone wants to swim with dolphins, we strongly request that visitors do not, as these are wild animals that can be stressed in close proximity to humans, especially if they are protecting young calves – much the same as with any other wild animals.” As elsewhere in the world, whale watching in Kenya is highly seasonal. The species most
WhaleWatching
Pic © George Allen – Jasiri
Kenya Marine Mammal Network [KMMN]. The network’s main aim is to collect data/information so that KWS can help work on a marine mammal conservation plan for Kenya. The more we know, the more we can conserve.”
Partnership
commonly found here is the humpback. This 40 tonne, 16 metre whale feeds on krill and plankton in the Antarctic between December and April. In the months from June to October the humpbacks migrate along the East African coast to breed and give birth. It is thought that they prefer tropical inner reefs that help protect their young
species of whale in Kenya, though many people still don’t know or believe they exist here. In fact, we have the dwarf minke, melonheaded, Bryde’s, sperm, Longman’s beaked – one of the world’s rarest – short-finned pilot and killer whales.” In the peak season, visitors can observe whales without leaving dry land – for example, while enjoying
In the peak season, visitors can observe whales without leaving dry land from predators. They can be seen offshore in Kenya – either from the land or from a boat – between July and September.
Reports “The best places to spot whales and dolphins are the WatamuMalindi and Kiste-Mpunguti National Parks,” says Steve. “We are also receiving important information that Lamu and Kiunga are hot spots for cetaceans. Of course, the more reports we get, the more information we have about their preferred locations, and Kuruwitu Marine Sanctuary [Kenya’s first community owned and run marine park] is also thought to be a good place to see whales and dolphins.” He adds: “There are many
a cold drink at the Ocean Sports Resort or Hemingways Watamu. For those who prefer a boat trip, Hemingways started organised tours in 2012 and other sports fishermen followed suit in 2013. So why the interest in whales? Steve explains: “Until the Kenya Wildlife Service [KWS] and Global Vision International in Shimoni [Kisite Marine Park] started surveys on the south coast in 2006, very little was known about marine mammals in Kenya. WMA then started the first focused scientific dolphin surveys on the north coast in 2010 with KWS. We then combined forces with the Kenya Marine & Fisheries Research Institute and with sports fishermen, local fishermen, divers and other marine users to form in 2011 the
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Humpback Graceful and powerful Pic © Chloe Corne – Global Vision International
On the north coast, the WMA – in partnership with KWS – has taken the lead. The WMA coordinates reports from the Kenya Association of Sea Anglers (KASA), local fishermen, divers and visitors to the marine park. It also conducts its own scientific surveys with the Watamu Marine Excursions (Boat Operators) and the Watamu Safari Sellers’ Association. Steve says: “Community support is very important for ecotourism and especially in adhering to good dolphin and whale watching guidelines.” Sightings seem to be on the increase. Is this because there are more cetaceans off the Kenya coast or are there more efforts in regard to spotting? Steve explains: “Scientifically, it is difficult to say, probably a little of both, although all fishermen say they have seen more humpback whales in 2013 than ever before. On the other hand, local fishermen and boat operators say there is a decrease in dolphins, possibly due to increased commercial fishing. Dolphins, however, can be seen all year round in Kisite and between November and April in Watamu (the Kusi prevents tours between April and October). Kisite has over 160 resident [wild] bottlenose dolphins and Watamu has more than 100.” So maybe tourists should consider a two-centre wildlife holiday: a few days in the Mara combined with whale watching in Watamu. It sounds perfect.
Funding gratefully received The Watamu Marine Association is funded by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife (AFEW) - Giraffe Centre and has been since 2011. Steve Trott says he owes a big thank-you to AFEW for its support, now into a fourth season on the north coast.
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ComorosFootball
Comoros football –
the french connection
C
omoros may not feature on any list of the world’s top footballing nations. In fact, Les Coelecantes (as the national team are known) were listed in late 2013 a lowly 190th out of 207 in the FIFA/Coca Cola World Rankings and just one place below the country’s highest-ever position since joining the global football body in 2005. On the face of it, Comoros, with a population of just 750,000, has little chance of progressing far in major tournaments, although the nation may take heart from the strong performance by minnows Cabo Verde in last year’s Cup of Nations in South Africa. Or note the
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heroic efforts of sparsely populated Iceland to reach Brazil, just losing out to Croatia in a playoff. Like Cabo Verde and other nations such as Ireland, Comoros has a secret weapon. The secret weapon is its diaspora – especially resident in France – to bolster its otherwise struggling national team.
Successful Perhaps the most successful of this French-born contingent is Kassim Abdallah Mfoihaia. Abdallah plays for Olympique de Marseille and was in the team that lost 2-0 to Arsenal in November, but he is not necessarily the club’s first-choice right back. Another is Martigues-born midfielder Nadjim Abdou, who plays
ComorosFootball
Kassim Abdallah Mfoihaia
Nadjim Abdou
Youssouf M’Changama
Born: 9 April 1987 Place of birth: Marseille, France Height: 6 ft 1 in (1.85 m) Position: Defender Teams: US Marignane, Sedan, Marseille, Comoros National Team
Born: 13 July 1984 Place of birth: Martigues, France Height: 5 ft 11 in (1.80 m) Position: Midfielder Teams: Martigues, Sedan, Plymouth Argyle, Millwall, Comoros National Team
Born: 29 August 1990 Place of birth: Marseille, France Height: 5 ft 8 in (1.73 m) Position: Midfielder Teams: CS Sedan B, Troyes AC B, Oldham Athletic, RC Arbaâ, Comoros National Team
for struggling English Championship side Millwall, a club based in south London. Nadjim (or Jimmy as he is known by his team-mates) has made over 200 appearances for Millwall and was voted the team’s best player in 2012 by Lions fans. This season he has once again been a regular in the Millwall line-up. Another French-born player who forms part of this far-flung Comoros footballing community is Youssouf M’Changama. He is also earning a living by playing professionally in England, albeit not at such a high level as Nadjim Abdou. Twenty-three-year-old Youssouf is a left-sided midfielder who played for the English League 1 (third-tier) team Oldham Athletic. Youssouf joined the club in early 2012 as a trialist and made only 10 first-team appearances in the second half of the 2011/12 season but was a regular for Oldham in 2012/13 and up until his bad injury.
Unfortunately, Youssuf did play for The Latics (as Oldham are known) again after the club’s glorious FA Cup win over giants Liverpool in January 2013 when an early tackle from England international Raheem Sterling took him out of the game. Youssuf subsequently returned to France to recuperate and subsequently signed for newly promoted Algerian Ligue Professional 1 outfit RC Arbaâ.
were also born in France, almost all in Marseille. Like Youssouf, many are scratching a living in the French lower leagues, although Ali Mourade is on the books of Swiss side FC La Sarraz-Ecläpens. So, when the next Africa Cup of Nations comes around in Morocco in 2015, look out for the men from the Indian Ocean. If Cabo Verde can do it, then so can the Comoros – even if half the team were actually born in France.
Signing Before signing for Oldham, Youssouf played for the French clubs CS Sedan Ardennes (Ligue 2) and Troyes AC (Ligue 1). Youssouf has made a handful of appearances for the Comoros national side. Other members of the Comoros national team – Ibrahim Rashidi, Salim Mramboini, Ali Mourade, Mohamed Youssouf, Djamal Mohamed, Ali M’Madi –
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Like Cabo Verde and other nations such as Ireland, Comoros has a secret weapon
Pic © Todd Shapera
HatuaLikoni
From Big Apple
to big idea
G
abrielle Fondiller is an unlikely figure to come across in the Likoni district of Mombasa; but this young New Yorker has made it her home since graduating from Wesleyan University, Connecticut, in 2007. For many of Likoni’s young people, Gabrielle has become a beacon of hope as she leads a groundbreaking initiative to help its disadvantaged children and young people to reach their potential through scholarships, mentorship and career guidance. Children dropping out of education early because their parents can’t afford it is a big problem in Kenya. “Nationally the drop-out rate for children after primary school is about 40 per cent,” says Gabrielle. “In the Likoni area of Mombasa it’s between 45 and 50 per cent. Nearly half the population of Kenya end their education after primary school. That’s not a very promising statistic for the future of the country.” Gabrielle is passionate about
By Robert Deaves locally created and youth-driven development and has devoted the past six years to providing a small but valuable solution to this challenging problem.
Hatua Likoni At just 21 years old, she moved from her home town of Brooklyn, New York, to Kenya and co-founded Hatua Likoni, an organisation dedicated to helping the township’s top students gain the skills and credentials they need to contribute to and benefit from Kenya’s growing economy. Hatua means ‘step’ or ‘a step forward’. The idea came after she spent a semester abroad carrying out an independent research project in Likoni, where she interviewed street vendors about the economics and politics of their trade. Likoni is the poorest area of the city. “I was working with a translator named Peter Kwame and he and I developed close relationships with
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the people we were interviewing,” says Gabrielle. “So after a few months of this we wanted to say thank-you in some way. We realised that the one thing they would do if they had more money was to pay for education for their kids.” So that’s what they decided to do. “I thought that I would go home, finish university and give a couple of thousand dollars a year.
Hands up Happy faces
HatuaLikoni
Pic © Todd Shapera
Pic © Madge Masaba Pic © Heather Elgar
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Pic © Todd Shapera
I would give the money to Kwame and he would pay school fees for these kids and that would be it.” Then she was given the opportunity to return to Kenya after her research work in Likoni won her the Brodigan Award for Public Service in Africa. This was a turning point in her life. “It provided a bit of funding that enabled me to come back. It was wonderful because, had I not won that prize, I might have taken one of the other opportunities I had after graduating in New York City and I might never have returned.” Gabrielle is a powerful advocate for Hatua and very sincere in her ambition to improve the circumstances of young people in Likoni. Most incomes in Likoni are between US$2 and US$4 per day; enough to afford food and one room’s rent, but not medical bills or school fees. In an area where the formal employment rate is about 15 per cent, most people are street vendors. Secondary schools cost families a minimum of KES 20,000 per year per child. For many Likoni families it is unaffordable.
Scholarship “We continued the same research and we expanded the scholarship programme,” says Gabrielle. “We selected students from the public primary schools based on merit and need. Today we support 192 kids from Likoni. We currently have
We are starting a new programme from 2015 to place our gap year students as teaching assistants in Class 8 classrooms throughout Likoni’s public primary schools. This frees the teacher to teach rather than do marking and administration jobs. The teacher can then focus on their primary responsibility. And we will pay our students to do that, so it’s a win-win for our students and for the students in the classroom. We are looking for local companies to sponsor the programme and we will have each of our students in the classroom wearing T-shirts branded with the sponsoring company’s logo. It won’t be that expensive but will have a big impact.” As a community-based nongovernmental organisation (NGO),
two in primary, 136 in secondary schools, 17 in their gap year, 10 in college and 25 in university. “We identify children who would otherwise have dropped out of school after the eighth grade (age 13 to 14) and we pay fees for them to attend different secondary schools all over Kenya. We also do mentoring for our secondary school students during the school holiday, focusing on personal development, life skills, civics, career guidance and entrepreneurship. Instead of dropping out of school or becoming disruptive to society, they end up with a college or university degree and an avenue to a professional career.”
Achievements The success of the programme is clearly seen through the achievements of the children. It seems there is no shortage of bright, hardworking children in Likoni. “Fifty per cent of our secondary school students are in the top 25 per cent of their class, while 24 per cent are in the top 10 per cent of their class,” says Gabrielle. “Of our 35 students in college and university, 26 per cent got an A or A minus in their end of secondary school exams. Compared to the national average of 2.6 per cent, our students outperform the nation by 10 times.” What of those children who are unable to join the programme? “That’s always the next question.
Pic © Heather Elgar
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“Instead of dropping out of school or becoming disruptive to society, they end up with a college or university degree and an avenue to a professional career”
The school Ready to learn and achieve
Hatua Likoni relies almost entirely on voluntary donations and sponsorship to achieve its objectives. It also works alongside a number of local organisations and other community-based organisations (CBOs) and NGOs in Likoni. Funding is always a problem, says Gabrielle; but the programme has hundreds of supporters in Kenya as well as in the USA and the UK. “A lot of it comes from international foundations; but we get about 15 per cent from Kenya sources and our goal is for that to grow year on year. Locally, we are supported by Safaricom Foundation, Jaffer Foundation, Rafiki Bank and Base Titanium, among others.” In many ways there is a strong synergy between the work of Hatua and the local economy. Mombasa employers often face a lack of locally skilled people, forcing them to take on employees from Nairobi. “By helping to educate the local youth we are helping employers
HatuaLikoni
Pic © Heather Elgar
find new employees locally,” says Gabrielle. “Companies can also help by offering internships and by encouraging employees to be mentors within our organisation. Any professional who is interested in being paired with a student can contact us and we can make that happen.”
Commitment Gabrielle has made a long-term commitment to the township – underlined recently when she bought a strip of land along the coast to build her own house. “When I first came to Kenya what I loved most about it was the fact that the culture is so people-orientated and much less materialistic than I was used to; and the fact that neighbours really come together and support one another. I think today that’s still the most appealing part of Kenya. I also love my work; I love what I do. It’s very satisfying to spend all day helping people. And I have the privilege of being very close to the students that we support. It’s not just about writing cheques; we are with them all the way. I feel like I am a Mama to a lot of children; and that makes me really happy. “I always thought I would do community-based development; but I always thought I’d do it in my home town of Brooklyn. So I think I am doing what I always thought I would do, but in a different location and a better climate.” For more information on Hatua Likoni’s activities or ways to help, visit www.hatualikoni.org
Support Eager pupils
Pic © Heather Elgar
Quick chat Q. What do your family think of this? A. My family are very supportive. They just wish Kenya was closer to New York. Q. What other activities do you get involved in? A. Last year we organised for all of our gap year students to give HIV education to their peers in local schools. We trained them as peer educators and they created a drama about HIV. They then went around to 46 different schools over six months and performed the drama. This year our gap year students are going to teach a financial literacy course throughout the secondary schools in Likoni.
was 18 I never had the chance to sail, so it’s great to get back into it. Q. What is a typical day? A. The best thing about my job is that every day is different. There’s no such thing as a typical day. Q. For you, what is the hardest part about living in Likoni? A. There are downsides. I would love to be closer to my family, but I try to visit them often. And there are challenges. Likoni has its good and bad sides and I am not going to sugar-coat it. Q. And the best?
We are also planning free medical camps for Likoni residents and we support the Likoni community football league, which has over 30 teams play matchers every Sunday. It’s a great initiative.
A. I love living here and would like to stay here indefinitely. People are kind and look out for each other. I always feel like people are looking out for me.
Q. Where are you based?
A. I don’t have a car but I often ride a bicycle.
A. Our offices are located in the Likoni Youth Empowerment Centre, which is open seven days a week. We established and run the library there. Q. What do you do to relax here? A. I’ve joined the Mombasa Yacht Club and I sail every Sunday afternoon. When I was a teenager I sailed at a YMCA camp on Rhode Island. After I
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Q. Transport?
Q. How can people help? A. The best way to help Hatua educate Likoni’s youth is by signing up as a sponsor. As a sponsor you’ll make an automatic monthly donation to support the education of one of our students and we’ll send you regular updates. You can also communicate with your student directly through email and Facebook.
CoverStory
Alisha Popat
finding her own key to musical success By Jane Barsby
B
ack in the mists of rock and roll time, at the very dawn of the age of pop, it was the simple dream of every musician to be signed up by a major record label. Thereafter, or so they thought, the producers, lyricists, stylists and publicists would mould them into megastardom, the record sales would rocket, the gold discs would line the walls and they could get down to the serious business of being irresponsibly famous. Ask Alisha Popat, self-styled indie rock folk singer, if she aspires to being acquired by a record label and she will tell you it would compromise the freedom of her personal expression. “I don’t want to be shaped and made to relate to the dictates of commercialism,” she says. “I have my own concept, write my own lyrics, do my own editing and produce my own videos. I want people to find their own way to my music because they like what I do.” Alisha, a fifth-generation Asian Kenyan, found her own way onto a stage in South Africa where she sang to an audience of 80,000 alongside some of the biggest names in African music at the opening of the FIFA World Cup in 2010. “That was a defining moment for me,” says 27-year-old Alisha. “I knew that was what I wanted to be doing for the rest of my life.” Alisha’s moment of fame was
hard-earned. Growing up in Nairobi, at 13 she decided she had to leave her close-knit family and go to school in South Africa where she could get the right musical tuition. “It was the best decision I ever made,” she said. “I learned how to sing and play the guitar; I sang in choirs, formed an all-girls band. But I missed my parents: we are super-close.” It was Alisha’s parents who persuaded her to study journalism rather than music at university in Cape Town. “Get your degree, get a profession, then follow the music,” they said. It was sound advice. While working part-time in a theatrical dining venue called Stardust, she honed her trade. “Before Stardust I just used to get up on a stage and sing my heart out. Stardust taught me that I had to prove myself, toughen up, compete. And I learned how to really engage an audience.”
Lessons When Alisha returned to Kenya, these proved valuable lessons. “I wanted to bring home what I had learned and contribute to the local music scene,” she says. “I felt I needed my own country behind me – but it was really tough. I found it virtually impossible to break into the Kenyan music scene. Kenyans just didn’t get my music. Worse, they saw me as an outsider. It took a good eight months before I felt accepted. And that was the time when the local music scene exploded. Suddenly,
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The look Alisha: Finding her own way
people were listening to a whole range of genres they had never heard before – and loving them! Suddenly, people were finding their own way to the music; and every musician had a chance. It was then that I realised that, rather than trying to get an album out, I would use social media channels such as YouTube to build a bridge between the Kenyan and the international music scene.”
Powerful Describing her music as “lyrically powerful and a fusion of blues, folk and soft rock”, Alisha plays to a wide range of audiences. “I play at corporate gigs for major banks and corporations,” she says. “And I play Indian weddings, though I don’t sing the traditional Hindi wedding songs – I sing my own.” What does the future hold? Alisha’s first album, ‘This Is Me’, comes out at the end of this year. She also hopes that by then she will have realised her dream of running a series of sponsored musical training programmes for the schools of rural Kenya. “It’s not just about giving back,” she says. “I also want to share the gift of creativity with these kids.” As for having children of her own, Alisha is candid. “I’ve put marriage and kids on hold. I have a clear idea of where I want to go and I am not there yet. Will I recognise the big break when it shows up? Yes I will. And then I’ll just go where the music takes me.”
CoverStory
“I have my own concept, write my own lyrics, do my own editing and produce my own videos”
FOLLOW ALISHA www.musicalalishapopat.com
alishapopatmusic
@AlishaPopat
AlishaPopat
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BusinessHub
Kenyan wind power:
a load of hot air? I
f Europe is any guide, then many of the estimates for wind generation put forward by subsidy-hungry developers tend to err on the optimistic side. Despite billions of dollars spent on both offshore and onshore wind energy, power generation in Europe from this renewable source still remain low and, of course, intermittent – a problem compounded by the fact that periods of intense cold, when demand is at its highest, are usually accompanied by spells of high pressure, when there is no wind. This means that back-up power stations have to be held in reserve, resulting in an expensive duplication of capacity. Clearly, Kenya does not have spells of extreme cold, so yearround demand is much more stable. But does Kenya have a regular supply of wind”? The backers of Kenya’s largest such wind energy project, close to Lake Turkana, claim that intermittent wind speeds are not a factor as natural phenomena will keep
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the turbines turning all day every day. The project, due to start in 2014, will create about 2,500 construction jobs. It should be fully operational by 2016. The reason for this certainty is that the site lies between 450 metres (at the shore of Lake Turkana) and 2,300 metres above sea level at the top of Mount Kulal. It is claimed that the area around the site has a unique geographical profile. Daily temperature fluctuations generate strong and predictable wind streams between Lake Turkana and the desert hinterland and as these pass through the valley between the Mount Kulal and Mount Nyiru ranges, they are funnelled into the so-called Turkana Corridor”. The Turkana wind phenomenon stems from the East African jet stream, which stretches from the ocean through the Ethiopian highlands and valleys to the deserts in Sudan in a south-east direction all year round.
Analysed Data collected and analysed since 2007 indicate that this site has some of the best wind resources in Africa, with consistent wind speeds averaging 11 metres per second from the same direction all year round. The project’s developers say the Lake Turkana Wind Power Project (LTWP) aims to provide 300 MW of reliable, low-cost wind power to Kenya’s national grid, roughly equivalent to 20 per cent of the nation’s current installed electricity generating capacity. Moreover, they claim the scheme is of significant strategic benefit to Kenya; and at KES 70 billion it will be the largest single private investment in the nation’s history. The 162 sq km wind farm site is located in Loyangalani District,
BusinessHub
Marsabit West County some 50 km north of South Horr Township. The project envisages an array of 365 wind turbines, each with a theoretical capacity of 850 kW, plus the associated overhead electric grid collection system and a high voltage substation.
Upgrading The project also includes upgrading the existing road from Laisamis to the wind farm site, a distance of 204 km, as well as a network of access roads in and around the site for construction, operations and maintenance. The African Development Bank (AfDB) has received EUR 10 million from the Dutch government to build the road. On-site construction work cannot commence until the road is in place, allowing earth-moving equipment to be transported to the area. The project is led by the LTWP consortium, comprising KP&P Africa B.V. and Aldwych International as co-developers, Industrial Fund for Developing Countries
(IFU), Siemens Wind Power A.S. (Vestas) of Denmark and the Norwegian Investment Fund for Developing Countries (Norfund). LTWP is solely responsible for the financing, construction and operation of the wind farm. Aldwych, an experienced power company with a focus on Africa, will oversee the construction and operation of the power plant on behalf of LTWP. Vestas will deal with maintenance of the plant in contract with LTWP. The power produced will be bought at a fixed price by Kenya Power (KPLC) over a 20-year period in accordance with the signed Power Purchase Agreement (PPA). The project has not been without its fair share of problems, some of which are now being resolved. Then there have been issues relating to risk guarantees. While donors and funding agencies have been falling over themselves to support a project that ticks many boxes in the minds of development organisations, it remains to be seen whether Kenya will really benefit from wind power.
The Turkana wind phenomenon stems from the East African jet stream, which stretches from the ocean through the Ethiopian highlands and valleys to the deserts in Sudan
Lake Turkana ď ž Ready to turn
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MotorReview
Toyota Probox
Ugly duckling is still Kenya’s favourite The day had to come when Fly-SAX’s car section paid a longoverdue tribute to Kenya’s most popular vehicle. And here we are.
L
oved and loathed in just about equal measure, there is one vehicle on Kenya’s roads about which nearly everyone has an opinion. It’s not flashy; just a cheap and cheerful ugly duckling. It does not boast sleek lines and is not fast nor even especially comfortable. But, as just about any Kenyan will tell you, whatever the Toyota Probox lacks in refinement it more than makes up for in terms of its economy and sheer practicality.
Choice This commercial ‘van’ (as Toyota likes to describe the Probox) comes with a 1,496 cc petrol engine (some older models have a decidedly underperforming 1,300 cc engine) and there is a choice of five-speed manual or four-speed auto gearboxes. Somewhat improbably, there is even a 4x4 version. The workhorse Probox can carry up to five passengers, or two passengers and an impressive 2.4 cubic metres / 400 kg of cargo. Toyota claims that the frugal Probox will return a reassuring 16.8 km/litre. And, of course, let’s not forget the “super-luxury” Succeed version. As with some other Toyota models (the Voxy/Noah springs to mind),
By Gary Gimson it takes something of a genius to tell the difference between a Probox and a Succeed. Externally, the Succeed has reversing lights bordering the rear number plate – and that’s about it. Despite its many qualities, for me, the Toyota Probox has one major shortcoming. Much to my surprise, the car’s suspension system uses coil springs rather than leaf springs, making it better suited, as far as I am concerned, to a luxury vehicle than one that is often used, say, for hauling miraa over rough terrain. The Probox has been around, more or less unchanged, for over 10 years now. So surely it’s time for a new model from Toyota. But then again, why change a winning formula? As such, the latest 2014 model looks – well, pretty much identical to Toyota’s original 2002 vehicle. Clearly, this is an ugly duckling in no great hurry to become a swan.
The duckling Do cars come any less attractive?
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MotorReview
PROBOX IN DETAIL ď‚€ The Toyota Probox was introduced by Toyota in Japan in August 2002. It is a small wagon designed for commercial use as a delivery car, and closely related to the Toyota Succeed. Body type: Wagon Drive: Full 4WD
Interior dimensions (LxWxH): 1645 x 1405 x 1245 mm
Transmission: 5-speed manual
Wheel base: 2550 mm
Displacement: 1,496 cc
Treads (front/rear): 1450 mm/1455 mm
Exterior dimensions (LxWxH): 4195 x 1695 x 1515 mm
Ground clearance: 155 mm
As just about any Kenyan will tell you whatever the Probox lacks in refinement it more than makes up for in terms of sheer practicality
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latest releases
recommends...
book worm
THE BIRDS OF EAST AFRICA
DARK GENESIS By A.D. Koboah
By Terry Stevenson and John Fanshawe In hardcover and paperback.
‘Dark Genesis’ is a love story set against the savage world of slavery in which Luna, a young female slave who has been dehumanised by its horrors, finds the courage to love, and in doing so, reclaims her humanity. Terror comes to Luna one sultry Mississippi evening in the summer of 1807 when she attracts the attention of a deadly being that lusts for blood. Forcibly removed from everything she knows by this tormented other-worldly creature, she is sure she will be dead by sunrise.
East Africa is one of the most spectacular regions in the world for birdwatching. This small and compact book covers all resident, migrant and vagrant birds of Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi. It describes and illustrates a remarkable 1,388 species in convenient facing-page layout. There are 287 new colour plates with 3,400 images by three experienced artists. Set opposite the plates are range maps and concise accounts describing identification, status, range, habits and voice for each species.
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Latestreleases
blockbusters THE RAILWAY MAN Starring: Colin Firth, Nicole Kidman, Hiroyuki Sanada Director: Jonathan Teplitzky Genre: Biography, drama| Eric Lomax was one of thousands of Allied prisoners of war forced to work on the construction of the Thai/Burma railway during the Second World War. His experiences, after the secret radio he built to bring news and hope to his colleagues was discovered, left him traumatised and shut off from the world. Years later, he met Patti, a beautiful woman, on a train and fell in love. Patti was determined to rid Eric of his demons. Discovering that the young Japanese officer who haunted her husband was still alive, she faced a terrible decision. Should Eric be given a chance to confront his tormentor? Would she stand by him, whatever he did?
12 YEARS A SLAVE Starring: Chiwetel Ejiofor, Michael K. Williams, Michael Fassbender Director: Steve McQueen Genre: Biography ‘12 Years a Slave’ is based on the true story of one man’s fight for survival and freedom. In the pre-Civil War United States, Solomon Northup (Chiwetel Ejiofor), a free black man from upstate New York, is abducted and sold into slavery. In the face of cruelty from a malevolent slave owner, portrayed by Michael Fassbender – as well as unexpected kindnesses – Solomon struggles not only to stay alive but to retain his dignity. In the 12th year of his amazing journey, Solomon’s life is changed forever by a chance meeting with a Canadian abolitionist (Brad Pitt).
BANSHEE Creators: David Schickler, Jonathan Tropper Stars: Rus Blackwell, Hoon Lee, Matt Servitto Lucas Hood (Antony Starr), an ex-con and master thief, assumes the identity of a murdered sheriff, under which he continues his criminal activities. As Hood imposes his own brand of justice, violence erupts at every turn in the not-so-quiet Amish town of Banshee, Pennsylvania. But his past catches up with him when he is apparently haunted by those whom he betrayed years earlier.
must-see
movie
JACK RYAN: SHADOW RECRUIT
AMERICAN HUSTLE
Director: Kenneth Branagh Writers: Adam Cozad, David Koepp Starring: Chris Pine, Kevin Costner, Keira Knightley, Kenneth Branagh Genre: Action, drama, thriller
Starring: Christian Bale, Amy Adams, Bradley Cooper Director: David O. Russell Genre: Comedy crime thriller ‘American Hustle’ is a highly enjoyable period heist movie from the director of ‘Silver Linings Playbook’ and ‘The Fighter’. Irving Rosenfeld (Christian Bale) is a successful con artist working with his partner Syndey Prosser (Amy Adams). When the pair end up working for FBI agent Richie DiMaso (Bradley Cooper), they enter a world of murderous mobsters which they may or may not get out of alive. ‘American Hustle’ is a crime caper with an amazing cast fortified with performances by Robert DeNiro, Jeremy Renner and Jack Huston.
Based on the character created by Tom Clancy, the story follows Jack Ryan (Chris Pine) from 9/11, through a scarring tour of duty in Afghanistan, and into the Financial Intelligence Unit of the CIA where he works under Harper (Kevin Costner). When Ryan believes he has uncovered a Russian plot to collapse the United States economy, he goes from being an analyst to becoming a spy dedicated saving countless lives, including that of his fiancée, Cathy (Keira Knightley).
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ProductReview
Chromebooks
Get connected with chrome-plated innovation
A
lthough reviews of early models were not always favourable, Chromebooks have made their niche in a declining PC market and have even become the best-selling laptop on Amazon for a while in 2013. Although they were introduced only as recently as 2011, there have already been no fewer than three generations of Chromebooks – and the latest models are a step improvement on the original offerings.
System The principal difference between a normal netbook or laptop and a Chromebook can be found in its operating system. Chromebooks use Google’s Chrome browser as their operating system on a Linux kernel and, as such, they are designed to be used online rather than offline. Early criticisms of the Chromebook that its offline use was too limiting have largely been answered in later models with a series of apps, so that work can continue when you are unable to get an internet connection. Otherwise, all the usual office documents can be worked on through the Chrome browser. Files are stored and edited in the cloud. There are currently five models of the Chromebook available. The
two offerings from Acer and one from Samsung feature an 11.6 inch display and start at just $199. HP has brought out a slightly larger 14 inch model while Google has launched the groundbreaking Chromebook Pixel at 12.85 inches, but with a price tag five times higher than the other four. However, it packs an incredible amount of power into its sleek, solid metal body and is the only one with a touchscreen. The four standard models come with a free 100 Gb of Google Drive capacity for two years, while the Chromebook Pixel comes with a whopping 1 Tb for three years. Chromebooks certainly look the part and are relatively easygoing on your wallet; but is the lack of offline facilities worth the gamble of only being able to work at 100 per cent when you have an internet connection?
Smallest Samsung’s bestselling Chromebook is the smallest and lightest of all the models at just 17.8 mm thick and weighing just 1.1 kg. It also boasts some seven hours of battery life. It is a big step up to the Chromebook Pixel, both in performance and price, but its display is out of this world, with twice the pixel density of leading laptops and a viewing
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experience second to none. It is also lightning fast. If you can cope with a computer that always needs an internet connection to function properly, then a Chromebook is worth considering. Because it is basically a stripped-down laptop, it works very fast and smoothly. It starts in seconds, with thousands of apps available in the Chrome Web Store. Files and photos are automatically backed up and the unique architecture of the Chromebook and the multiple layers of security mean that virus protection is built in. Model
Screen (inches)
Chromebook Above (From left to right): Acer C720, Samsung Chromebook, Acer C7, HP Pavilion, Chromebook Pixel
Resolution Weight Battery (pixels) (kg) (hours)
Acer C720
11.6
1,366 x 768
1.25
8.5
Samsung Chromebook
11.6
1,366 x 768
1.10
7
Acer C7
11.6
1,366 x 768
1.4
4
14
1,366 x 768
1.8
4.25
12.85 2,560 x 1,700
1.5
5
HP Pavilion Chromebook Pixel
Love them or loathe them, Chromebooks look set to stay, at least for the near future. In a market increasingly dominated by tablets, Chromebook sales showed a steady increase in 2013, while the Windows and Apple product share declined. For many people, too, current prices make Chromebooks a very attractive option.
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CityGuide
Stone Town
History, culture and good food in a magical setting A treasure trove of cultural and culinary delights 39
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CityGuide
S
tone Town is not merely the birthplace of rock singer Freddie Mercury; it is also a treasure trove of cultural and culinary delights, all squeezed into this Unesco World Heritage Site. They range from the majestic House of Wonders, so-called for having acquired electricity before any other building on the island, to the hectic Daranjani market, with its myriad stalls from which to taste. Hear the muezzin’s solemn call to morning prayer. Watch the night approach with the spectacle of youngsters somersaulting from a tyre on the sloping beach. Get lost beneath the canopy of houses and admire exquisite Zanzibari doors, or browse in a shop selling antiques from the days of the sultanate. Apart from simply exploring the town, which is always stimulating enough, here is a guide to where to stay, what to see and where to eat in Stone Town.
Juba
UGANDA
KENYA
TANZANIA
Zanzibar Paradise island
Where to stay
Where to eat
What to see
Livingstone Beach Restaurant: This beachfront restaurant has the best atmosphere on the island. Watch the sun go down while listening to great music.
The Palace Museum: if you can excuse a bit of peeling paint, here you will gain a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the sultanate, where Sayyida Salme resided before moving to Europe.
Six Degrees South: An exceptional restaurant worthy of any city. Choose inspiring food from an exciting menu and look right out over the sea.
The Serena Inn: A peaceful refuge from the bustle of the street, the inn has all the western comforts you’d expect from a reputable chain, with a private beach, swimming pool, coffee shop and conference room.
Beyt al Chai Restaurant: The cosiest, most authentic restaurant for Swahili cuisine. The seafood is light, tasty and delicately prepared.
Emerson Spice: An exotic, lavish and creatively decorated hotel, centrally located, full of history. Enjoy the hospitality and delicious dinners on the roof. Kisiwa Hotel: Small and personal, full of opulent Swahili decor with beautiful ocean views. Air conditioning, Wi-Fi and everything at your convenience.
ZANZIBAR Stone Town
Stone Town History everywhere
Abyssinian Maritim Ethiopian Traditional Restaurant: A great opportunity to try Ethiopian cuisine. They say it takes five tries before acquiring a taste, but here you need only try it once.
Sunset Dhow Cruise: Set sail toward the sunset. Enjoy Italian cheeses and delicious cocktails aboard this most romantic vessel. Humani Persian Baths: Although no longer in use, this 19th-century complex remains an interesting relic of the island’s communal history. Former slave market: The remnants of this profoundly regrettable episode in history stand here as a memorial. It is an absolute ‘must see’ while on the island. Forodhani Night Market: Savour the smell of barbecued seafood beckoning each evening. Here you can peruse a great selection of exotic street food, from banana pizza to lobster.
Zanzibar Coffee House Hotel: A charming old hotel serving delicious breakfasts, with good coffee, on the rooftop terrace.
House of Wonders: An architectural marvel, with its charming bell tower and tiered terraces. The House of Wonders is aptly named. It displays items from Swahili history.
Mashariki Palace: The recently renovated Omani palace is still as elegant as ever. Tall ceilings, stone floors, fabulous food and friendly, helpful staff.
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LookInside
ď ź
On the Ocean A real credit to Watamu
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LookInside
Lonno Lodge
Exclusive boutique hotel has its own special charm
By Gary Gimson
I
love Watamu. Of course, I like the beach, the warm translucent ocean, the raffish charm of this seaside town, its unhurried atmosphere and the obvious attractions of the Marine Park. Most of all, I am always impressed by the wide choice of accommodation in Watamu. And surely one of my favourite places to stay is Lonno Lodge. It’s not the biggest property in town, but for those in search of tranquillity and seclusion, a hotel with just a handful of fellow guests, boutique-style accommodation and service that is never too much trouble from proprietors Silvia and Aldo Calegari, then this is definitely the place for you.
Unconventional The somewhat unconventional design of Lonno is what catches the eye first. Clearly, there is a strong Swahili influence, but this is fused with Italian flair, style and an overall
neatness of presentation. Guests can choose from eight rooms and suites: Top Tower, with a gorgeous view above the reef, De-Luxe, the 43 square metre Executive, Junior Suite, Suite, the huge Grand Suite and the TwoBedroom Suite for families with kids. To be honest, any of these options is more than you’ll ever find in any famous-brand hotel and all are exquisitely furnished and lavishly appointed. As you would expect with an Italian managed property, the cuisine is of an extraordinarily high standard. Yet the emphasis is on coastal cooking styles and locally grown and sourced ingredients. The restaurant is not open to the public but is reserved for guests of Lonno Lodge. This ensures an intimate atmosphere and guarantees a more-than-attentive level of service. Aldo Calegari said: “Our chefs prepare dishes to order – we don’t
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Clearly, there is a strong Swahili influence, but this is fused with Italian flair, style and an overall neatness of presentation
like freezers very much – using fresh ingredients bought that morning at local markets and shops, thus supporting the regional economy.”
Salt water For a property with so few rooms, the salt-water swimming pool is simply enormous. That’s about it. Classy, quiet, cosy. And another good reason to spend a weekend at Watamu. When was the last time you were treated like a king or a queen?
FoodForThought
Lucca
Some Italians are really worth singing about
C
hiromo Road, part of Nairobi’s six-lane arterial highway, rages alternately fast and furious and grim and gridlocked. Not a place you’d expect to find a cream-laced, rose-pink palace with marble floors, Roman fountains, Venetian arches and Romeo and Juliet balconies. But there it is: the five-star Villa Rosa Kempinski, a 10-floor, 200-room mirage sedately sequestered behind a pair of palatial wrought-
By Jane Barsby iron gates and fronted by an elegant cascade of lilac-lit water. Opened in 2013, the Villa Kempinski made Nairobi blink. One minute a building site, the next a colossal pink ball-gown of a hotel that would not have looked out of place on Venice’s Grand Canal. Curious to a fault, Nairobi visited the great lady and was duly amazed. Surprised and delighted, even.
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There was only one problem: the promised pan-Asian 88 Restaurant, the rooftop Tambourin Levant-style restaurant and the Italian Lucca bistro-deli were not yet open. Disconsolately, Nairobi sampled the Villa’s K Lounge bar, a vision in green and gold veined marble, and the Café Villa Rosa (24-hour coffee shop, lunchtime buffet and evening venue alike). Charming. But fingers were drummed slightly on tables – Nairobi is not famous for her patience.
FoodForThought
Lucca hits the high notes with all the assurance of Italy’s greatest tenor, Luciano Pavarotti
Finally, in November 2013, Lucca, the long-awaited Italian bistro, flung open its polished glass doors, housed in one of the two dawn-pink towers that stand to either side of the Villa’s gates.
Shaded With seating for 74 inside and 56 outside (on both its shaded rear terrace and highway-facing, white balustraded balcony), Lucca falls well outside the intimate, red and white chequered tablecloth and candle in Chianti bottle school of Italian restaurants (and some might say it doesn’t look or feel much like an Italian restaurant at all). When it comes to the food, however, Lucca hits the high notes
with all the assurance of Italy’s greatest tenor, Luciano Pavarotti. What is more, although the operatically inspired menu is comprehensive, it is neither pretentious nor overpriced; and if all that you feel like eating is a pizza, that’s absolutely fine: you can even order your takeaway Caruso or Norma pizzas from the Deli counter. Add to this the fact that the service is faultless, the underground parking effortless and the Villa Rosa herself a diva in undeniably full bloom, and a visit to Lucca has got to be worth a first night. Even an encore.
Dishes Delicious choices in trendy setting
Further information: lucca@kempinski.com
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ly-SAX operates modern aircraft and is constantly updating and modernising its fleet. The company uses aircraft which burns only half as much fuel as some other aircraft and also emits less carbon into the atmosphere. This underlines the fact that Fly-SAX is a ‘green airline’ that cares for the environment. The crew and engineering team are professionally trained and certified to ICAO standards.
CRJ 200ER Type: Twin-engine, single-aisle jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 50 passengers
DC-9 Type: Twin-engine, single-aisle jet airliner Number in service: Two Capacity per aircraft: 80 passengers (20 passengers on executive jet – charter service only)
Fokker F28 Type: Short range jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 67 passengers
B1900 Type: Twin-engine, turboprop fixed-wing aircraft Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 19 passengers
Cessna 208 Caravan Type: single turboprop engine, fixed-gear shorthaul regional airliner Number in service: Two Capacity per aircraft: 9 passengers
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TravelInfo
FLY540 VI
INFORMAT A I S
N O
TRAVEL INFORMATION
KENYAN VISAS
VISA INFORMATION
M
ost nationals require visas to enter East Africa. Citizens from the five East African states require no visas while those from the Common Market of East and Southern Africa (COMESA) member states have relaxed entry requirements into East Africa. However, East African member states have their own visa requirements for various nationals.
Visas are required for most nationals and cost US$50. A visa can be obtained on entry, however we recommended one be obtained before arrival to avoid airport lengthy queues. Visa Application Forms are available online. A visa is required by all visitors travelling to Kenya with the exception of those holding a re-entry pass to Kenya and citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay. Note that the reciprocal visa abolition agreements with Germany, Italy, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Spain, and Republic of Ireland no longer apply and nationals of these countries now require a visa.
HEALTH
Kenya Visa Requirements
Vaccination requirements for international travellers
• Valid passport with sufficient number of unused pages for endorsements abroad. Passport must be signed and valid for at least six months.
• No cholera vaccination certificates are required of travellers coming from all over the world.
• Visa application form duly completed and signed by the applicant.
•
• Valid round trip ticket or a letter from your travel agent certifying that the applicant holds prepaid arrangements.
Only valid yellow fever vaccination certificates are required of all travellers over one year old, arriving from yellow fever infected countries mainly in central and West Africa, South and Central America South East Asia, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh.
• Vaccination for international travellers are obtainable from all international air and sea ports, city and major municipal councils
• A self-addressed stamped envelope for express mail, courier, registered mail, etc., if the visa is urgently required. Metered stamps are not acceptable. • Home and work telephone numbers.
Please fill out the form correctly and enclose the photographs and payment to avoid delay and disappointment. Standard Visa fees payable by cash to the High Commission of Kenya. Visa fees charges: • Multiple entry: US$100 • Single entry: US$50
N
NB: Make sure you get your yellow fever shot in good time since ACCINATIO 0V the yellow fever certificate is valid for travel use 10 days after vaccination.
ORMAT INF IO
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• Two recent passport size photographs attached to the application form.
• Transit Visa: US$20
Passengers can pay in US dollars, British pounds, Euro or Swiss franc. For more information and to download a Kenya visa application form visit: http://www.immigration.co.ke
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TravelInformation
SOUTH SUDAN VISAS
TANZANIAN VISAS
Any visitor going to South Sudan through Khartoum requires a valid visa. Visas are issued through the South Sudan Embassy.
All foreigners from non-Commonwealth countries are required to have a valid visa unless their countries have agreements with Tanzania under which the visa requirement is waived.
The Republic of South Sudan has missions in Kenya, Egypt, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Uganda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Zimbabwe, Nigeria, South Africa, Australia, Norway, Belgium, the UK, Germany, France, Turkey, Libya, China, India, Italy, Canada and the USA.
Exemptions: Citizens of Commonwealth countries are not required to obtain visas unless they are citizens of the United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, South Africa, New Zealand or Australia.
Immigration regulations stipulate that anyone going to South Sudan and wishing to travel outside of Khartoum needs a travel permit from the Government of South Sudan. Those travelling to South Sudan from Kenya, should visit the South Sudan Embassy in Kenya.
Tanzanian visas are issued by the following: • The office of the Director of Immigration Services, Dar es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar.
Requirements:
•
• All applicants to launch their visas in person
• Any other gazetted entry point.
• Passport must be valid for at least six month and presented on submission of application
• From Tanzania High Commissions or embassies abroad.
• Two recent colour passport-size photos
For more information on Tanzanian diplomatic missions visit: www.tanzania.go.tz/tanzaniaembassiesabroad.htm
• Yellow fever vaccination card •
Letter of invitation and intent Standard Visa fees payable by bank transfer to: Government of South Sudan Special Permit Account Bank: Kenya Commercial Bank; Sarit Centre Branch A/C No. 402004247
Entry points to the United Republic of Tanzania: principally Namanga, Tunduma, Sirari, Horohoro, Kigoma Port, Dar es Salaam International Airport, Kilimanjaro International Airport, Zanzibar Harbour and Zanzibar Airport.
SOMALIA VISAS
Fees:
To enter Somalia, a passport valid for six months is required by most foreign nationals.
• Multiple entry: US$250 (six months)/US$400 (one year) • Single entry for countries with common boarder with South Sudan: US$50
Visas to Somalia are not valid in Somaliland.
• Single entry for other African countries: US$100
Visitors to Somalia should register in Addis Ababa with the embassy representing their country, or with their embassy or high commission in Nairobi.
• Single entry for European and US citizens: US$100
Processing period: Two working days
Sea and air ports are under the control of the local government meaning there may be differences in exact requirements. Types and cost:
ComorOs VISAS
•
Single-entry tourist visitor visa: US$50; multiple-entry business visa: US$100.
• These visas are issued by the Somali Embassy in Nairobi, but are only valid for Mogadishi-based government-controlled parts of Somalia.
All visitors need a visa to enter the Union des Comoros.
Validity:
Visas are available on arrival in Grande Comoro. These cost €7 for up to 45 days and €11 for 90 days. Visas must be bought at the immigration offices in Moroni. Passengers arriving after the close of business on Friday and leaving before the following Monday will be issued with a free two-day weekend visa on arrival.
• Visas are valid for six months from the date of issue. • Somalia is now effectively treated as three different areas for visas. Contact Somaliland Missions for visas for Somaliland and the Ministry of Information, Culture & Tourism for visas for Puntland.
For the rest of Somalia, contact the Somali embassies in Ethiopia or Kenya.
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For further information on advertising in 540 magazine contact Land & Marine Publications
Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: advertising@landmarine.org
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Contacts
Contacts
CONTACT INFORMATION
FLY-SAX TICKETING & RESERVATIONS FIVE FORTY AFRICA
JOMO KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
HEAD OFFICE
540 Ticketing & Reservations Office
Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite, Riverside Drive PO Box 10293-00100 Nairobi, Kenya
Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/5 Fax/Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2396 Sales: Tel: +254 (0)737 540 540 Email: info@fly540.com
Nairobi CBD Office Ground floor, International House, Nairobi
Tel: +254 (0)712 540 540; 0735 540 555; 0717 305 305; 0703 305 305 Email: bookings@fly540.com or bookings@fly-sax.com
Karen office Office number 10, Karen Connection, Karen Road, Nairobi
Tel: +254 (0)722 305 305; 735 305 305 Email: Karen.Sales@fly-sax.com
WILSON AIRPORT 540 SAFARI CIRCUIT SALES Ground floor, Langata House
Tel: +254 (0)20 254 0206 Tel: +254 (0)729 540 540 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 540 Email: 540.safaris@fly540.com
ELDORET 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Tel: +254 (0)53 203 3570/80
ELDORET INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 540 Ticketing & Reservations Office Tel: +254 (0)53 203 0814 Tel: +254 (0)53 206 3823 ext 658
540 CALL CENTRE ABC Place, off Waiyaki Way
Tel: +254 (0)20 445 3252/6 Cell: +254 (0)722 540 540; (0)733 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 445 3257
Unit 3 (Domestic Departures)
Tel: +254 (0)20 827 523 Tel: +254 20 827 366 Cell: +254 727 532 273 Unit 1 (International Departures)
Tel: +254 (0)20 827 521
KAKAMEGA
UKUNDA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Barclays Centre, Diani Road
Tel: +254 (0)20 354 6532 Tel: +254 (0)726 453 246
UGANDA ENTEBBE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Tel: +254 (0)734 540 550 Tel: +254 (0)711 908 330
540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Tel: +256 (0)314 540 540 Tel: +256 (0)315 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)713 540 540
KITALE
KAMPALA
540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Holden Mall - above Nakumatt
540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Terminal Building, Kitale Airstrip
Tel: +254 (0)770 639 429 Tel: +254 (0)724 457 374 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 547
LAICO REGENCY 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Mezz. floor, Shopping Arcade
Tel: +254 (0)20 224 3211/3/4 Cell: +254 727 540 540; (0)737 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 224 3219
LAMU – NORTH COAST TRAVEL SERVICE Tel: +254 (0)42 213 0312 Tel: +254 (0)42 463 2054 Tel: +254 (0)725 942 444 Email: nctslamu@swiftmalindi.com Email: nctsmalindi@swiftmalindi.com
MOI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, MOMBASA Tel: +254 (0)41 343 4821 Tel: +254 (0)32 540 540; (0)722 555 730
MOMBASA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Ground Floor, Mombasa Trade Centre, Nkrumah Road
Tel: +254 (0)41 231 9078/9 Mob: +254 (0)728 540 540; (0)710 540 540
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540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Ground floor, Park Royal Shopping Mall, Buganda Road PO Box 22335, Kampala
Sales: Tel: +256 (0)717 540 540; (0)712 540 540
SOUTH SUDAN JUBA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Tel: +211 959 540540 Tel: +211 999 540540 Email: Sales.juba@fly540.com
SOUTH AFRICA AVIAREPS (PTY) Ltd 38 Wierda Road West Wierda Valley Sandton, Johannesburg
RESERVATIONS Tel: +27 (0) 11 722 0229 Fax: +27 (0) 11 783 8135 Email: Res540.JNB@aviareps.com
SALES Tel: +27 (0) 722 0229 Tel: +27 74 177 1596 Fax: +27 (0) 783 8135 Email: Sales540.JNB@aviareps.com
KidsCorner
Kids’
Corner KNOCK KNOCK... Knock Knock Who’s there! C-2! C-2 who? C-2 it that you don’t forget my name next time! Knock Knock Who’s there? Rabbit! Rabbit who? Rabbit up carefully, it’s a present!
JOKE TIME! Q. Why was the broom late? A. It over swept!
Q. What kind of hair do oceans have? A. Wavy!
Q. What runs but never walks? A. Water !
FLYING
T D R A W E T S
WORDSEARCH
O D U O L C S C
Can you find the words listed below in the letter grid? Tip: Some words are flying backwards!
L A N D
I
I
S W I
N G J B
PLANE WINGS COCKPIT STEWARD AIRPORT RUNWAY
P
L A N E A E
CLOUD SKY PILOT JET LANDING cabin
Q. How do you make milk shake? A. Give it a good scare!
Q. What’s red and flies and wobbles at the same time? A. A jelly copter!
Q. Waiter, this soup tastes funny? A. Then why aren’t you laughing!
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