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JAYMES TRIGLONE iSSUE 1
BY STEFAN HEINRICHS
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EDITOR CHRIS CHENG DEPUTY EDITOR RUEN CHIEW ART DIRECTION THI NGUYEN EDITORIAL CO-ORDINATOR ASKA YOKOYAMA CONTRIBUTING EDITORS FERNANDO BARRAZA, CARLA ROBINSON, MARTIN DE COURTENAY, IAIN DAWSON,, DYLAN RIVIER, MAIREAD O’CONNOR, ROHAN STEPHENS, AMY HAYES, INTERNS POLLY STEWART, HANAH AN, ANDREW ABOOD. CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS JUSTIN WU, LUKE MANGAN, JAMES DEMITRI, FERNANDO BARRAZA, BRIGETTE SHERHAN, WILL HENDERSON, SEBASTIAN SAUVÉ, LEEBO FREEMAN.
DEDICATED TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY, THE REAL VISIONAIRIES.
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CONT ENTS MILAN TREND / PARIS TREND / BACKSTAGE FIX / PARIS SKIES /
THE MODEL MAKER / THE PRODUCER / THE ULTIMATE CHEF / THE CURATOR / THE WIZARD OF OZ / THE TRAINER /
04 06 08 10
VINTAGE CHARM / MUSE / RADAR / COLOURING IN / SELF STYLED /
38 58 84 88 94
18 24 32 70 76 100
FACEFORWARD / AERTIME W. SEB / AERTIME W. LEEBO / AURGASM IDEOLOGY
106 112 114 122 131
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MILAN TREND
SS12
DSQUARED²
GUCCI
PRADA
BURBERRY
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RAF SIMONS
NEIL BARRETT
MONCLER GAMME BLEU
BOTTEGA VENETA
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PARIS TREND
SS12 YVES SAINT LAURENT
DIOR
LANVIN
LOUIS VUITTON
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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
DAMIR DORMA
RICK OWENS
GIVENCHY
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BACK
MILAN HOMME FASHION WEEK PHOTOS BACKSTAGE FIX
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S
STAGEFIX http://itunes.apple.com/au/app/backstage-fix/id440414140?mt=8
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PA R
S
I
S K 巴黎的天空
S
I
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DIARY TAKEN DURING SS12’PARIS MENS FASHION WEEK PHOTOS CHRIS CHENG A4 | Muse
Photos: Chris Cheng
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Photos: Chris Cheng
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Photos: Chris Cheng
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Photos: Chris Cheng
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Photos: Chris Cheng
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Photos: Chris Cheng
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THE
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M
OD AK
DEL KER
THE ULTIMATE BREAK FOR ANY ASPIRING MALE MODEL IS TO HAVE A SITTING WITH CHADWICK GENERAL MANAGER / MARTIN DE COURTENAY ARTICLE MARTIN DE COURTENAY PHOTOS MODELS.COM
该模型 制作者
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WE’VE SPENT THE AFTERNOON TO CATCH UP ON MARTIN’S TRIP TO THE PARIS MENS SS12 SHOWS, THE ART OF MODELLING AND WHAT IT TAKES TO MAKE IT IN THE INDUSTRY TODAY.
In the Beginning - I’ve worked for many years in publishing and got to know the industry from the other side of the desk as I was always interested in fashion it was a natural progression to move into working as a booker. It’s a role that requires you to be a salesman, a diplomat and also a bit of a psychiatrist too. On Model Trends - Like fashion, the types of models we see changes from year to year. That said, you only have to look at the top 20 guys in the world to realize that classic good looks, albeit with a contemporary edge, never date. Some models are unapologetically commercial, which is not a bad thing as it leads to longevity in their career, but the ones who make a major splash in the industry have an essence about them that gets the attention of the market right now.There are a number of big names that I think embody this, Dimitry Tanner, Paolo Anchisi and Nils Butler are in my opinion the epitome of classically handsome young men with the contemporary edge that demands market attention. Then there is that
whole raft of guys who embody that London-cool vibe such as Josh Beech, Tom Penfold and Harry Goodwins. Then, totally out of leftfield you have someone like Andrej Pejic who is so unusual and in line with fashion’s interest in blurring the boundaries that he has in effect become more than a model, indeed, a personality with something of a cultish following. I tend to lean to first group when looking for talent – it seems to work better with my own aesthetic, as it’s something I understand and think works well to ensuring the talent has a career that spans more than a few seasons. On Model behaviour - I think it should be realized that every model is running his own business and like every business owner needs to take their career seriously. I often have aspiring models come to me saying “I’m not doing anything at the moment, so thought I may as well become a model”. This isn’t like doing a paper-round, it’s a real business with big money invested by clients and 21
“A KEY TO
SUCCESS IS TO REMAIN COURTEOUS”
agencies, so models who succeed often share a single trait, of treating it with respect and realize they are an integral part to it. In my view a model should be inherently aware of their presence on camera and on the catwalk. This is something that is one part built in and one part learnt on the job. A model also needs to be something of a chameleon and adapt to whatever the brief presented is. Health is also something very important to me. I was always a skinny kid, so I’m aware that some kids are just skinny despite eating like horses. However, I emphasize in a general sense that models need to be aware of their
health as many problems manifest in an external way – bad skin, hair, teeth. God, sounds like I’m on “Best In Show” referring to a prize grey-hounds. Without wanting to sound priggish, I really believe good manners goes a long way. A key ingredient to anyone’s success, to remain courteous at all times and respectful with situation they maybe in. Accordingly, it’s also very important that a model develops thick skin – there is a lot of rejection involved in castings and landing jobs – so maintaining a happy disposition and strong sense of self is paramount. MDC
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PRO DU CER PARIS BASED NEW MEDIA PRODUCER AND MODELS. COM FAVOURITE, JUSTIN WU LETS US IN ON LIFE BEHIND THE LENS AND SOME KARAOKE FAVOURITES.
制片人
ARTICLE JUSTIN WU PHOTOS JUSTIN WU
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In the beginning - My interest in photography stemmed from fine arts, painting and drawing, while I was studying Science at University, with little time available to follow both creative and educational pursuits my parents bought me a camera in hope that I could try a different medium with instant results. As I dedicated more time into pursuing this pathway. The camera became my medium of choice and within a year had received several art gallery exhibitions on show. Through experimentation I discovered fashion was a great way to collaborate with others through the same medium. Often fine-arts is a singular approach compared with fashion photography which offers the ability to work with other great minds.
On male models - Great male model all share few common, traits a look that is mouldable and timeless, great personality that can represent brands and take direction well. Many of these factors I would also describe as characteristics that make a good actor. A few current models that embody this include Simon Nessman, Anthon Wellsjo, Jon Kortajarena and Nikola Jovanovic.
“FASHION IS A GREAT WAY TO
LLABORATE
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On Himself - Im all about personality, creativity, perseverance and experimentation. I guess I see myself as sensitive with an analytical mindset. Having graduated with a bachelors in biology and honours in business administration, have played a part to mould the way I do things. This process is carried thru in my work as some much considerations is taken to select models that have the best personality and look for each video concept. Very rarely is it completely arbitrary and a lot of planning goes into each shot. Admittedly at times when the opportunity arises backstage at a show, a scene could take just a couple mins to film, but putting it all together in the end, takes sleepless nights.
On Music - Karaoke – The musician I admire most, would be Jónsi (aka jón þór birgisson) from Sigur Rós. His music may not evoke the same pop personality of my work but I find his music so inspirational, tranquil, original and passionate. And if I had to choose a stage to debut my karaoke skills it would possibly be Carnegie Hall to a Sigur Rós track. On new projects – Im working on a music video to debut with MTV in Europe, also other fashion week video collaborations, one with a well known musical artist is in the works for NYFW. On Famous last words - Never stop dreaming and being passionate. The sky’s the limit! JW
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uc THE
ULTIMATE CHEF 终极的 厨师 CREATIVE FLAIR IN CUISINE LEAD US TO THE HILTON HOTEL TO MEET WITH THE MAN, BETTER KNOWN FOR BEING THE ULTIMATE IN FINE DINING, CHEF LUKE MANGAN ARTICLE LUKE MANGAN PHOTOS GLASS BRASSERIE
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“MY STYLE IS VERY
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On lifestyle - My style is very relaxed and simple. My main focus is comfort as I travel a lot. On any given day - if I’m not in my chef whites, I’ll be wearing jeans or casual slacks with an informal shirt. I’m a big fan of Ted Baker and Michael Kors. Australian fashion is great and improving all the time. I’ve got my favourites too like Calibre, Zanerobe and Lab which works well for my lifestyle. On happiness/weakness - Great food & wine, of course. We all know how certain foods stimulate endorphins, which help in boosting your mood. Like great cheese and good quality red wine. At the moment I am loving Old Telegraph Road and Henschke wine from the Barossa. So by eating well, these happy hormones do what they do naturally, and we reap the benefits!
On favourite travels - There are so many To name a few: Carnarvon in WA, Noosa and Straughn in Tasmania. I also love to visit Kangaroo Valley. I have a place down there and like to visit whenever I have a few free days, which unfortunately isn’t often enough. It’s such a picturesque area with beautiful rivers, lush rainforest and rich green pastures On Trends - One of the biggest food trends at the moment is share plates – casual and well-cooked fresh food with many different influences from around the World i.e. Mexican, South American etc. At most of my restaurants we now are offering a tapas menu, shared mains and even shared desserts.
LAXED
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LIQUORICE PARFAIT WITH LIME SYRUP
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On Succession - ‘Skills shortage’ is a term we hear used quite a bit. There is a constant struggle to keep our talented young professionals from leaving the industry and that’s the reason we set up our ‘Appetite for Excellence’ hospitality awards program in 2005. It was obvious that the hospitality industry needed to sustain and support the next generation. I had been through it all during my own apprenticeship so could totally relate to them. It’s a tough gig – lots of long hours and little pay. Originally, the awards program was to identify and encourage emerging, young, qualified chefs, therefore maintaining and developing the future of the Australian hospitality industry. The program has now expanded to Young Chef, Young Waiter and Young Restaurateur. We have a great judging panel of amazing high profile chefs, restaurateurs and personalities who are extremely supportive and dedicate their precious time to helping these passionate young people. I was very lucky having mentors of Michel Roux and Hermann Schneider. Now I’m in a position, where I can do the same – it works well.
On Achievements - It probably would be cooking for Bill Clinton,Richard Branson, Danish Crown Prince Frederik and Princess Mary. On separate occasions of course! The Ultimate challenge - Would be for contestants to replicate my Liquorice Parfait. I’ve been making since 1995 .It was created in the kitchen of CBD after months of trial and error. It’s a balanced dessert – rich and creamy, but we served it with lime which cuts through that. It sounds a bit strange but is truly amazing. It became immensely popular and is now a signature dish and is served at all of my restaurants. On future projects - In the next 5 years time I will be maintaining quality and consistency in my restaurants. I’ll hopefully have opened one or two more by then too. LM
Luke currently owns and operates Glass Brasserie at the Hilton Sydney; Salt Grill & Sky Bar at the Hilton Surfers Paradise, The Palace by Luke Mangan, South Melbourne; Salt & the adjoining World Wine Bar, Tokyo; Salt grill, Singapore; and Salt grill onboard three P&O’s cruise liners. He is also the consulting chef for Virgin Australia.
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V I
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复古魅力
PHOTOGRAPHY BY FERNANDO BARRAZA REALISED BY CHRIS CHENG FASHION ASSISTANT ASKA YOKOYAMA GROOMING BRIGETTE SHERHAN MODELS KRIS CONDE BOLOS, DECLAN SULLIVAN @ CHIC, LEWIS GRANT @ EMG, RIZ BAWANI & DANIEL GAROFALI @ CHADWICKS.
WE REDEFINE PIECES BY PAIRING WITH CURRENT SEASON LAB BY RENEWING. OLD. FAVOURITES. FOR SOME VINTAGE INSPIRED CHARM.
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KRIS WEARS BURBERRY CERAMIC WATCH, LAB WOOL BOUCLE COAT, ORINT TEE , VINYL LEGGINGS AND BRACELET, ADDIDAS HITOPS.
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LEWIS WEARS ROMEO GIGLI COTTON BLAZER, LAB SHIRT, COTTON SHORTS, GUCCI BRIEFCASE, SILK TIE, KENZO LEATHER BELT, BRANDO CALFSKIN SANDALS.
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RIZ WEARS PAUL SMITH SHIRT, SILK TIE, SHOES, LANVIN POCKET SQUARE, GORGIO ARMANI WATCH, LAB COTTON SUIT.
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DANIEL WEARS LAB SILK TRENCH AND UNDERWEAR.
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KRIS WEARS DRIES VAN NOTEN WAISTCOAT, LAB SILK TUNIC, ARMOUR+HOMME BRACELETS, DECLAN WEARS DRIES VAN NOTEN COTTON BLAZER, FENDI BELT, LAB SHIRT & COTTON PANTS.
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RIZ WEARS LAB SHIRT, JEANS AND BRACELET, ARMOUR+HOMME CUFF.
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LEWIS WEARS LAB UNDERWEAR, BRACELETS, ARMOUR+HOMME CUFFS.
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DECLAN WEARS JIL SANDER HI-TECH TRENCH, LAB SILK TUNIC & SHORTS, BURBERRY CERAMIC WATCH.
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RIZ WEARS COMME DE GARCONS WOOL BLAZER, VERSACE CARRYALL, LAB TEE, STRIPED COTTON PANTS, ARMOUR+HOMME NECKLACE.
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LEWIS WEARS LAGERFELD WOOL BLAZER, MUI MUI CHAMBRAY SHIRT, LAB RAW DENIM JEANS, ARMOUR+HOMME BRACELETS.
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MU
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JAYMES BY STEFAN HEINRICHS
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JAYMES BY STEFAN HEINRICHS
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JOSEPH BY THI NGUYEN
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LEEBO BY FTAPE
THE
CURAT SYDNEY’S PREMIER HUB FOR NEW CREATIVE TALENT. ARTICLE ROHAN STEPHENS PHOTOS IAIN DAWSON GALLERY
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TOR 想像と創造が出会う場所
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HUGH FORD
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Immersed in the Paddington fine art scene now for three years, Iain Dawson Gallery’s focus is purely that of giving previously unrepresented artists a forum to exhibit. It’s acts as a platform that offers high exposure to a world normally impenetrable to those seemingly on the outside. Four artists in particular are grabbing the majority of the attention with a recent group show, ALLSTARZ . Hugh Ford, Nathaniel Kiwi and Mike Niccol are but a handful of the amazing array of artists currently working with the gallery to showcase the best young and emerging talent the country has to offer. Hugh Ford has shown with Iain Dawson Gallery since 2008; each time expanding his already significant base of collectors further and further. The innocence in the humour of Hugh’s work seems so effortlessly casual. His instantly recognizable characters and scenarios have resonated intimately
with almost all who have the pleasure of experiencing them. A fascination with the classic graphics of a bygone era of animation both in print and film has lead to this refreshingly unique and playful aesthetic. With collectors across the country and a growing base of interest in Hong Kong, the appeal of Hugh’s work is gaining significant momentum both regionally and internationally. He has, without a doubt, become one of the gallery’ most identifiable artists. Accompanying Hugh Ford in his success is two of the gallery’s most promising up and coming artists Mike Niccol and Nathaniel Kiwi. Kiwi’s art has all the trappings of what great Pop Art does; provides a façade of pleasantries with a significant underbelly of substance and serious questions. His brilliant technique and minimalist approach to composition infuses a glorious visual
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MICHAEL NICCOL
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revelry with an at times quite serious societal commentary. Similarly laden with significant social observations is the work of Mike Niccol. He states of this particular collection of works, “We develop mechanisms for survival. We create a facade or thick skin in order to protect ourselves from harm. The way in which we interact with others can have a direct bearing on whether we succeed or fail. To fail is to be avoided at all cost. We spend our life in a perpetual state of fear.” The technique in Niccol’s ability to paint in such a hyperrealistic manner is at times beyond comprehension. Almost paradoxically however is the presence of this powerful figure which in turn questions all the realism that surrounds it. Both Kiwi and Niccol are Sydney based and the gallery is thrilled to be apart of their growth as up and coming artists. Iain Dawson gallery is a space that any lover of young, contemporary artists should not miss. It’s a rare glimpse into an unadulterated world of emerging visionaries. RS
NATHANIEL KIWI
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THE
wIZA 美、そして研ぎ澄まされる五感
INSPIRED BY BLACK & WHITE FILMS, PHOTOGRAPHE FILMMAKER JAMES DEMITRI HAS FELLINI ON HIS MIN IN IMAGERY WITH A SENSE OF ESCAPISM THAT IS BO BREATHTAKING AND BEAUTIFUL. A4 | Muse
ARTICLE JAMES DEMITRI PHOTOS JAMES DEMITRI
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ER TURNED ND. RESULTING OTH
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“beauty
is in the eye of the
BEHOL A4 | Muse
LDER� Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, my sense of beauty is somewhat warped. What makes something or someone attractive is often an imperfection. An element of interest that makes you
want to look twice. At the moment, I see myself as a photographer, tho what I do is an expression, Everyone has creative ways of expression, so I’m simply experimenting with my own.
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“MY SENSE OF
BEAUTY IS SOMEWHAT
�
WARPED On work - Being able to use your craft as a narrative and create a situation because more then often the stuff I like is quite dark, to recreate scenarios that take you to a different place.
On Inspiration - Pop culture, film or photography and recent projects all inspire me. So there are many elements that go into my work, sometimes without even realising it.
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is somewhat
Old black and white films. Film Noir. Stanley Kubrick, Federico Fellini and Alan Ball - American beauty, those moment, are all iconic for me.
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JD
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RA DAR
rabbit fur hat
aviators by trussardi
smoke chaise by maarten baas
vessel ser by samuel
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t by givenchy
tourbillion airbourne watch by bell ross
ries wilkinson ss 2012 by marni for h&m
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RA DAR
calfskin cardholder by isaac reina
ysl ycon tote in textured leather
l’eau d
harley davidson v-
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milk by michael klim spf moisturiser
d’issey pour homme sport another man magazine
-rod 10th ans ed.
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WITH MUSICIAN TURNED MODEL
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WILL HENDERSON IN NORTH BONDI
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SELF TYLED photography chris cheng model jaymes triglone @ chadwicks
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パーソナルト SYDNEY BASED PERSONAL TRAINER TO MODELS AND BONDI LOCALS, DYLAN RIVIER LETS US IN ON LIFE BEYOND THE GYM AND THE PERKS OF TRAINING SMART
ARTICLE DYLAN RIVIER PHOTOS LAB GALLERIE + GEORG JENSEN
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As a personal trainer - It’s around this time of year the people often slack off only to panic nearing summer. Preparation begins when people discovered (or remembered) what they look like in the mirror underneath their thick coats and leather jackets.
if you haven’t already then try supersetting your exercises. A Superset simply means combining two exercises one immediately after the other with no rest. This doesn’t necessarily have to be the same muscle group – I like to superset an agonist Months of abstained training (lets say pushing) with an antagonist (pulling) has turned to disaster and we begin to ask the question, muscle. Eg Chin-Up/Push Up. Quick what do I do?! Relax there’s now plenty of time 2. Eat well and eat to get into great shape regularly. We’ve all before the heat really hits heard it a million times us next summer. The next few months are crucial and that eating more often throughout the day my advice is to start now actually boost your and build up nearing three metabolism therefore months before summer, so burning more fat and train hard, eat well and be consistent. Come December, encouraging lean muscle growth! 5-6 small meals you’ll be thanking me ! is a good place to start. With the cooler months, When we think about our wardrobe, our best features our bodies actually works harder to keep warm can be arms, shoulders, therefore burning more stomach, waist and legs. body fuel. For 2012/13 it’s all about being lean, muscular, toned and functional. Here are my 3. Those training outdoors 5 tips for training towards – instead of doing one next Summer’s ready body: exercise at a time, try combining your workout into a circuit training. 1. For those in the gym,
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Choose 3-6 different exercises and complete a set of each aiming for little to no rest in between each one. Rest at the end of eack round, then go for a second. See how many rounds you can get inside your designated workout time! 4. ABS. Everybody wants a washboard stomach but don’t forget about the deeper muscles that we can’t see! I’m referring to the belt of muscles around your mid-section we call our ‘core’. Responsible for posture, hip alignment and can have a huge impact in a positive way – becoming a power house for all subsequent movement and in a negative manner should they be neglected. Static holds (planks/bridges) are a great way to train your core. 5. Cardio. Guys, it’s no good having a rippling six pack and toned arms if they’re hidden under a couple of kg’s of unwanted Winter indulgences! Make sure you include cardio training in order to lean up and show off what you’ve been working towards and get results.
WITH SUMMER OVER FOR ANOTHER YEAR AND THE COOL FAST APPROACHING, ITS THE BEST TIME TO BEAT THE RUSH AND BEGIN PREPARING. NOTICE THE ENIGMA THAT HAPPENS EVERY YEAR, AS THE TEMPERATURE GOES UP,THE CLOTHES COME OFF ! EXPLAINS DYLAN RIVIER 103
“ TRAIN HARD,
EAT WELL,
BE CONSISTENT ”
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Top 5 exercises: 1. Chin Up. An oldie but a goodie. Whether in a gym, or outdoors there’s always a chin-up bar to be found. This is a fantastic exercise on so many levels – as you recruit your entire back as well as activating your core and abdominal muscles, while it’s also a killer for your arms.
2. Push ups. Again oldie but fantastically good! Super defined shoulders, strong chest and toned triceps are all on the menu here. Make sure you keep your body rigid as you move down and up – don’t let your hips sag and avoid the bum in the air move.
If you can’t lift your own bodyweight don’t despair – simply find a much lower bar (waist height or thereabouts), hang off the bar with your legs extended in front of you heels to the floor toes to the sky.
3. Cardio it’s all about the intervals. Whether swimming laps or running soft sand, try interval training and watch the results stack up! Quite simply interval training is short bursts of speed followed by slower recoveries. These can be done in any order and speed. Try 60 sec fast with 45 sec recoveries for starters and see how you go.
skinny leg jeans! These are a slight variation of the tabata workout (which is very simple – 20 seconds of effort with 10 seconds rest). Here what we do is body weight squats for 20 secs then hold the last one at the bottom position for 10 secs before starting the second round. Try going non stop for 5 rounds like a spartican.
5. Burpees. By far the most hated exercise I’ve ever prescribed to a client. Why? Because they’re hard. Why are they so hard? Because when done correctly the results are amazing! They Lift your hips off the ground work out almost your entire so that your body is now body as well as getting your straight and your arms are heart rate high enough extended out from your you’ll think its about to chest gripping the bar. Pull burst out of your chest! yourself up so that your chest 4. Tabata Squats. Bodyweight Remember though keep touches the bar then lower in squats will keep your legs your mid-section switched a controlled manner. This is toned and muscular whilst on throughout and DON’T a great stepping stone to full still being able to fit into your FORGET TO BREATH. unassisted chin-ups. DR LAB encourages you to seek medical advise when unsure of fitness level before attempting any strenuous exercises.
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FACEFO MATTHEW TERRY. Image courtesy of VMAN. A high number of shows for a new face as well as nabbing Calvin Klein campaign and various exclusive shoots incl DKNY.
CASPAR OECHSLER. Image by models.com Walked and shot exclusively for Versace.
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ORWARD JORDAN AND ZAC STENMARK.Image by Betty Sze for models.com For their first time in Europe, the twin Aussies opened and closed Calvin Klein (exclusive) and opened Mugler.
JANIS ANCENS. Image by Betty Sze for models.com. In Florence, this young Latvian walked for Valentino; in Milan, walked for Gucci, Moschino, closed Burberry. In Paris opened YSL, walked for Bottega Veneta.
SIMON SABBAH. Image from New Madison Exclusive in Milan for Pringle, opened and closed. In Paris, opened and closed 3.1 Phillip Lim and Quasimi, walked for Galliano, Kenzo, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Mugler, Raf Simons.
DIMITRIJ VYSOKOLYAN. Image from Success Dimitrij, possessor of the famous Slavic cheekbones combined with a perfect fit, walked for brands such as Jil Sander, YSL, Dior Homme, Lanvin, Kris Van Assche, Acne and Raf Simons.
REFERENCE COURTESY OF MODELS.COM
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FACEFO ARTHUR GOSSE. Image courtesy of VNY A very high number of big openings/closings for a new face. Arthur opened Prada for his Milan exclusive and in Paris, opened Dior Homme and Kris Van Assche; closed Lanvin, opened & closed Miharayasuhiro and walked in top shows including Louis Vuitton, YSL, Mugler, Galliano, Dries Van Noten, Phillip Lim, Raf Simons, Acne and Wooyoungmi.
JOEL MEACOCK. Image from Chic The young Aussie garnered a Calvin Klein exclusive in Milan, and for his Paris exclusive, opened Louis Vuitton.
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ORWARD ALEXANDER FERRARIO. Image courtesy of L’agence 160g Paris. This Argentinean/ French actor debuted exclusively in Milan for Jil Sander and then walked 3.1 Phillip Lim, Raf Simons, YSL, Galliano, Wooyoungmi.
TAKESHI UEMATSU. Photo Kenta Matsusaka. Image from Studio KLRP Takeshi walked Louis Vuitton, Galliano, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin and Paul Smith; his more mature face was a pleasure to see this season.
MAX RENDELL. Polaroids from Elite London Max’s refined features fit in perfectly with an exclusive in Milan for Jil Sander and walking in Paris for Acne, Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Miharayasuhiro, Raf Simons and YSL
JAZZ SCOTT. Image by Givenchy. Walked and shot exclusively for Givenchy.
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AERTIME
with Sebastian Sauvé
A familiar face in the crowd, like class mates you would of known or grownup with, best describes the manchild look which defines the new legion of male models, spearheaded by the current crop of top boys par models.com
Magazine covers to date incl Essential Homme, Fiasco, D Section, That Magazine, Tendencias, Schon, Chas, GQ Style, Carbon Copy and Coitus.
Models like Paolo Anchisi, Yuri Pleskun, Luke Worrall, Clement Chabernaud, Simon Nessman and a jovial Brit born American, Sebastian Sauve. We discover the cover for L’officiel Hommes Germany in the fall of 2010 become somewhat of his defining moment when things picked up pace for being the new face to watch. Campaigns followed suit with Just Cavalli, Stone Island, Zara Young, Frankie Morello, Les Hommes, Jeremy Scott and Simons. A4 | Muse
Catwalk shows to date Simon Spurr, Number Lab, Native Son, Vivenne Westwood, Emporio Armani, Givenchy, Calvin Klein, Diesel Black Gold, Jeremy Scott, Moschino, Roland Mouret, Frankie Morello, 3.1 Phillip Lim, DSquared ², John Galliano, Versace, Bespoken and more. We take 10 mins out of the busy NY Fashion week SS12 showings to chat with Sebastian Sauve on his life and likes. www.suavelikesauve.com
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LAB: Welcome Sebastian, Most know already but for those that dont, can tell us - How and When did you begin modelling? I met a guy, Scott Pollicino towards the end of my Central American travels before starting University, Scott was staying in the same youth hostel and asked if I ever thought I could be a model. I said thats crazy talk and only my mom thinks that.
IMM Bruxelles - Brussels Soul Artist Management - New York Nest model management - Berlin Mother agency: Premier Model Management - London
He thought I had a good chance and got me to a casting agency in LA. I had to turn that down due to Uni, but through their recommendation I later went to see Premier in London one day and it slowly began to happen... Now 2 years on, it’s all coming together nicely. LAB: Which agencies do you belong to? Why Not Model Management- Milan 2pm Model Management - Copenhagen View Management - Barcelona Major Paris - Paris Bravo Models - Tokyo
LAB: Tell us about your favourite fashion styling that best describes you? Easy, comfortable, a splash of colour where I can. Some accessories like a neat belt buckle.
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LAB: So where are you currently based? A suit case and a backpack. I have a home in England but I’m almost never there.
LAB: Current weakness or dish you highly recommend? Man-which/everything in the fridge-which. Basically take any fridge and pack a bunch of each separate food/supplement/ condiment between the bread and eat it. It always tastes great. Toasted Multi seed breads a winner.
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LAB: List 3 fav animals + characteristics, why you like or thought of them? 1/ Linx is número uno in the jungle really. Lives in trees, jumps 15 feet, razor sharp claws. F*#ked with by nothing ever! 2/ Spider monkeys are always mucking around never not having fun weather it’s stealing from tourists or throwing around poo 3/ Killer whales are the most cunning, pack orientated hunters. They f*#k you up without breaking a sweat. They use the carcus of the dead animal like a base ball game. I’d go into more detail... LAB: Whats your favourite colour? Orange & Purple LAB: Describe as your Movie ICON? Will Ferrell- makes it all up as he goes along. An honorable skill LAB: Building on with inspiration, Best words of advice - given or advised? “No hardly ever means no” give it another try. “the longer you hesitate the harder it will get” LAB: To end with what is your must-have LAB piece/s? Your pick? The drop crotch shorts. Soft light baggy airy and chillin. Wore em all throughout Fashion week. SS 115
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AERTIME
with Leebo Freeman
Musicians and actors are a rare breed, ruled by their search of the inspiring tune or role. A lifestyle fuelled by adrenallin and life in a suitcase until their big break, get discovered and placed before many a watchful eyes of casting directors. In the case of modelling, this group of industry heavy weights re-define what fashion should be often deciding the next stars in the making. One such name belonged to aspiring musician and actor, Handpicked by Thierry Mugler designer Nicola Formichetti and a regular at Viviene Westwood and Frankie Morello. Meet Leebo Freeman who walks to the beat of being named the face to watch on the big screen and the catwalk par models.com
Campaign that followed suit with Uniqlo. Magazine covers to date incl Homme Style, Fiasco, Schon, L’officiel Hommes Germany, Catwalk shows to date Mugler, Vivienne Westwood, Frankie Morello, Dsquared, Jeremy Scott, Patrik Ervell, Michael Bastian, and more. We enjoy a 10 minute sitting, inbetween to his debute role opposite Danny Glover for the film Mentryville and NY Fashion week SS12 showings to chat with Leebo Freeman about life on tour and what it feels like to be in the drivers seat. 117
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LAB: Welcome Leebo, tell us - How and When did you begin modelling? Well i began about a year an a half ago and it all started with a haircut. got the barnet chopped and lots of mates kept insisting that i try modelling. So I sent off some test shots and applications to random agencies that I thought were sound and ended up getting a call back an hour later from Kevin @ ADAM-NYC asking me to fly up or NYFW. Since then its been amazing and have met soo many great people including some of my best mates now. Travelling to amazing places and experiencing all kinds of new things. LAB: Which agencies do you belong to? Milan- ILOVE Denmark-Unique Barcelona-View Paris-Succes London- FM models Berlin-The NEST
Mother agency: New York-ADAM LAB: So where are you currently based out of? London when Im not traveling, other than that i live in my suitcase. LAB: Can you tell us about your favourite fashion styling that best describes your taste? Hhhm, I suppose I m always getting new inspiration but always love fun edgy looks that are simple and comfortable. Nothing that looks like it took to much work to pull off. I will always be a fan of 80’s style. LAB: Current weakness or dish you highly recommend? Cadbury’s dairy milk chocolate.... Im addicted. other choices would be Lindt or Milka. Just a massive bar of milk chocolate. YUM!
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THE CONNECTION THAT MUSIC OFTEN IS INSPIRED BY IT’S SURROUNDS CAN BE FOUND IN THE WORKS OF MANY ICELANDIC ARTISTS. BJORK’S RECENT STUDIO RELEASE, BIOPHILIA, FURTHER ILLUSTRATES THIS RELATIONSHIP, THERES MORE THEN MEETS THE EYE. ARTICLE DR. RIEN CHIEW PHOTOS BJÖRK.COM + SIGUR RÓS’.CO.UK
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On Bjork - +++ Biophilia-ism +++ Four years after her last studio album, Bjork released her eight full-length studio album Biophilia. In true avant garde style, the album was released in the form of a series of iphone/ipad/ itouch “apps” in collaboration with Apple, making it the “first app album”. Intoduced by Lord David Attenborough the 10 songs and apps that comprise of Bjork’s ‘Biophilia’ project; describe ‘Biophilia’ as “the love of nature in all her manifestations” and “nature music and technology and how all three come together”. Reflecting on the of works of Bjork and her Icelandic counterparts, Icelandic landscape and nature seems to be an important aspect of the country’s contemporary popular music narrative. The country’s distinctive topological features of mountains, volcanoes, glaciers, lava fields, waterfalls, geysers, hot springs, cliffs, black sand beaches, and the sea often appear in music videos and documentaries and form part of Iceland’s rural landscape ideology of ‘pure’ nature free from human intervention. The landscapes also convey a sense of dynamism for example,
volcanoes on The Sugarcubes’ ‘Birthday’, 1987; crashing waves in Gardar Thor Cortes’s ‘Luna’, 2007, or the empty beauty of highland wilderness in Gus Gus, ‘Desire’, 2002; Bang Gang, ‘Stop in the Name of Love’, 2003 and Bjork, ‘Who Is It’, 2005. The sea also appears as a common visual, lyrical and sonic trope, as either the source of life and livelihood, or representative of unpredictable nature i.e. Bjork/ Mark Bell, ‘Nature is Ancient’, 2002; Danıel Agust, ‘The Gray’, 2006; Sigur Ros, ‘Sæglopur’ ‘A Lost Seafarer’, 2006; Valgeir Sigurdsson and Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy, ‘Evolution of Waters’, 2007. Ideas of Iceland as wild landscape find expression in sonic aspects of their music. With Instruments often derived from Icelandic nature itself, literally e.g. the stone marimba played by Sigur Ros on Heima or by sampling e.g. the footsteps through snow heard on Bjork’s ‘Aurora’ from Vespertine, 2001; there is mimesis of natural phenomena where ‘Frosti’ from Bjork’s Vespertine and the historical association between ice and the ‘twinkle like’ high frequency percussive resemble the sounds of a music box. 125
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On Sigur Rós’ - The notion of the Icelandic landscape and its perceived influence on musiC also manifests in Sigur Ros’s documentary Heima, in which there was a deliberate attempt to convey a sense of the vastness of nature through cinematography. There is a minimal editing of shots and large number of static camera views, with an overwhelming majority of the film directed at the landscape, rather than performance; people and objects pass across the camera’s field of view rather than being tracked by it. As a consequence, the subject position implied by the camera is passive rather than active, and the static camera shots suggest a landscape that exceeds human perception. Even when the camera is travelling it conveys stasis, as in the fixed camera shot from the back of a moving boat, and from the rear of a moving vehicle. In each case there is little in the foreground of the shot to provide a sense of scale, and the horizon seems not to change.
The effect is an unusual sense of journey and movement but rooted in a single moment of time and space. In one interview in Heima, artist Pall Gudmundsson demonstrates the musical properties of rhubarb, explicitly linking music to nature, occupation of the land and to kinship: ‘This here is very old rhubarb. Over one hundred years old. My grandfather put it down. And I have been making instruments out of this rhubarb’ (Heima, 2007). Insight - The ‘noisy’ character of beats on ‘Joga’ from Homogenic (1997) which Bjork and critics likened to ‘volcanic eruptions’, for example, the representation of snow and ice afforded by the track suggests the idea of journeying within suspended time. An intrusive and romantic notion which also reminds of the characteristics of Sigur Ros’s music. Their sound is often guitar-based (sometimes played with a bow), incorporating keyboards, strings, electronic distortions, bleeps and buzzes, and falsetto vocals.
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Insight II - Tracks tend to be long in duration (the mean duration of tracks from the studio albums released up to 2006 is seven minutes), and slow in tempo (a mean tempo of 66 beats per minute), and are composed using improvisation around repeated melodic and harmonic material. Stasis is created by alternation between the same limited palette of sonorities and a lack of cadential progression until the very end of tracks. However, within this there is activity of sorts. Iceland has increasingly had to deal with an ideological conflict between the rural landscape upon which it was founded as a nation, and its industrialisation. Ideas about Icelandic nature and its relationship with technology became particularly contentious at the end of the twentieth and start of the twentyfirst century, amid debates over the exploitation of the country’s natural resources. Iceland’s best-selling book of 2006 was Draumaland (Dreamland) by Andri A4 | Muse
Snæ Magnason castigated the then government’s attitude to Icelandic nature. Industrialisation conceptualises nature as economic property, which is at odds with romantic nationalist thinking on landscape, that are promoted by many Icelandic musicians, as illustrated as illustrated by Sigur Ros’s statement: ‘Iceland is a unique place on this planet. And it’s so strange that people can actually think about it as a moneymaking scheme’ (Heima, 2007, 55:00_55:20). However, in Bjork’s case the natural and technological seem to suggest the two can be unified, and as a result both are changed in the process: the technologisation of nature creates a new formation in which technology and nature do not simply coexist, with the one feeding off the other, but form new and productive entities. This enacts a unification of the apparent opposites of nature and technology, rather than the eradication or sublimation of one half by the other, often visible in the realms of rural and urban.
In 2008 Bjork released a statement on her official website declaring: ‘I believe that profits, technological advances and working together with nature can all go hand in hand. None need to be sacrificed at the expense of the others’. This is not simply utopian sentiment, or another example of music as protest, but a statement of will. She adds, “I would like to point out Iceland’s uniqueness: Iceland and its pure untouched nature are synonymous. If that is lost our uniqueness is lost. Just as if Paris lost its fashion, New York lost its skyscrapers, Los Angeles its Hollywood.” Hence music, nature and technology all come together symbiotically in Biophilia. RC
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IDE OLOGY ADAM-NYC.COM ANOTHERMAG.COM ARMOURHOMME.COM BACKSTAGEFIX.COM BEAUCOOPS.COM BELLROSS.COM BJORK.COM BRANDO.COM.AU CHADWICKMODELS.COM CHICMANAGEMENT.COM.AU CHRISTIANOITA.COM EMGMODELS.COM FTAPE.COM GEORGJENSEN.COM GIVENCHY.COM GLASSBRASSERIE.COM.AU HARLEY-DAVIDSON.COM HM.COM IAINDAWSON.COM ILOVEMODELSMANAGEMENT.COM ISAACREINA.COM
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