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ŠIBENIK Summer 2012 S

20

Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years

Dip In

Take a dive into the surreal underworld of the Šibenik archipelago

Ivan Meštrović

Discover the birth place of this extraordinary sculptor

Open air festivals The new party hot spot of searing summer festivals

N°2 - complimentary copy

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CONTENTS

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Šibenik

5

Your first view of the city

The Basics

6

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

8

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Culture & Events

9

Interesting and boring stuff included

Magnificent Meštrović

15

One of the worlds greatest sculptors

Where to stay

17

A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife

Discover the delights of the undersea world...

21

Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome

What to see

33

All those things you mustn’t miss

Go Gourmet

28

Cafés Easily the best scene in the world!

30

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

31

Mail & Phones

39

Smoke signals and carrier pigeons

Getting around

40

Save on shoe leather

Shopping

42

Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Leisure

45

Biking or Scuba Diving

Diving in the Adriatic

47

Wet n wild

Directory Lifestyle & Business Directory

49

Šibenik Knin County

50 63

County map

Maps & Index

...or dive into the world of music

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Street index City centre map City map Country map

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FOREWORD If you happen to find yourselves in the Šibenik area this summer, you’re in for a treat. The city itself is a wonderful maze of atmospheric alleys filled with ancient buildings, topped off with Juraj Dalmatinac’s fabulous cathedral, a UNESCO monument. The surrounding area encompasses masses of pristine islands, perfect for the escapists among you, and the refreshing green splash of the Krka National Park. And the dry rocky hinterland hides its share of treasures too. This year you might especially like to head to Otavice, the home of Croatia’s greatest sculptor Ivan Meštrovič, since this is year we mark the 50th anniversary of his passing. Active types have plenty of adventure sports to choose from – see especially our feature on diving. And music fans can hardly wait for the Terraneo festival, combining indie music and ecology. So, all in all, there is absolutely no excuse for being bored!

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Šibenik In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1848-0365 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja

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It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with more on the way) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can now be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Jonathan Bousfield, Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher / Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Marko Sirovina, Gordan Karabogdan Photos TZ Šibenik, TZ Vodice, TZ Pirovac, TZ Rogoznica, TZ Murter, TZ Tisno, Šibenik In Your Pocket team Cover Želimir Beštak, Famous beach Jadrija Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2012. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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ARRIVING IN ŠIBENIK

By bus

By train

Šibenik Coach Station G-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-)

Šibenik Train Station L-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel. (+385-22) 33 36 99. Getting from Zagreb to Šibenik by train takes about nine hours and involves a long wait at Knin, where you change trains. Šibenik train station is about ten minutes’ walk west of the Old Town.

060 36 83 68. Šibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a 5-minute walk east of the Old Town. It is served by 4 or 5 express buses per day from Zagreb, with an average journey time of 4hr 20min. There is an additional handful of Zagreb-to-Šibenik buses that take a longer route, calling in at Zadar or the Plitivice Lakes on the way. Ticket prices range from 151kn to 183kn one way. Šibenik also lies on the route of many long-distance bus routes linking Rijeka and Zadar in the north to Split and Dubrovnik in the south - so arriving here from elsewhere on the Adriatic coast is relatively easy.

By car From Zagreb: Šibenik lies just over 300km from the Croatian capital, with much of the distance covered by the swift and highly scenic A1 motorway. With the route crossing the bewitchingly barren Lika plateau before burrowing its way through the dramatic Velebit mountains, you’re in for an exhilarating ride. Be aware that the A1 is a toll motorway, and the Zagreb-Šibenik stretch will set you back about 154kn (car) or 92kn (motorbike) each way. From elsewhere on the Adriatic coast: Šibenik is on Croatia’s main coastal road, the Magistrala, which runs from Rijeka in the northwest to Dubrovnik in the southeast. It is a stunning journey, which takes you past some of the most beautiful maritime scenery anywhere in Europe. However it can be full of traffic and time consuming in summer, when it might be worth heading inland and picking up the motorway for a stretch or two.

By plane Nearest airports are Split (45km to the southeast) and Zadar (50km northwest). Local buses run from Split and Zadar airports to the relevant city bus stations, where you can get an onward service to Šibenik. Journey times to Šibenik from Zadar bus station hover around the 1hr 30min mark; from Split expect around 1hr 50min.

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Tourist information

L

The local tourist association offices listed in this guide can help you out with a whole lot of information about individual towns, resorts, parks and sights. We should mention that the office hours tend to be rather eclectic, so you might want to check on their Web sites or give them a call before trekking over. Tourist Information Centre E-2, Obala Dr. Franje Tuđmana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11/(+385-22) 21 44 48, tz.grada.sibenika@si.t-com.hr, www. sibenik-tourism.hr. Q May, June Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00. September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. October 08:00 - 20:00, Sat Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. November - April 30 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Šibenik Tourist Board C-1, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75, tz-sibenik@si.t-com.hr, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board D-2, Fra Nikole Ružića bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 72, info@ sib enikregion.com, w w w.sib enikregion.com. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Public Institute of Krka National Park D-2, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk. hr, www.npkrka.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Association of Tourist Guides “Mihovil” Šibenik, www.vodici-sibenik.hr.

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BASICS Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must recive export approval before departure and it is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture. For further details www.carina. hr or call (+385-1) 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

Toilets

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

There are two public toilets in Šibenik. One is by the theatre, it’s open all year round 07:00 - 21:00, costs 4kn, and is a bit ancient but decent enough. The other is by St James’ Cathedral, it’s open only during the summer months, again 07:00 - 21:00, price 4kn.

Health & Safety

Water

The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless. The Police (policija) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times.

Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Šibenik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

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National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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HISTORY

7th century AD The area around Šibenik is settled by Croats. 9th century Croats build a fortress overlooking the sea, proof that Šibenik is becoming an important port. 1066 The town of Šibenik is mentioned in a proclamation by King Petar Krešimir, its first ever mention in official documents 12th century A thriving settlement increasingly takes shape below the fortress. 1080 The fortress town of Knin, inland from Šibenik, becomes capital of the Croatian state under King Zvonimir. 1102 Croatia’s monarch dies childless, and the crown falls to the king of Hungary. Šibenik continues to flourish in the Hungaro-Croatian state. 1116 Šibenik is all but destroyed by a Venetian siege. It is re-founded ten years later by refugees from “Biograd”, also sacked by the Venetians. 1298 Pope Boniface VIII declares Šibenik a town with the right to its own bishopric. 1409-1412 A three-year Venetian siege culminates with Šibenik’s subjection to the rule of Venice. 1431 Work begins on a new cathedral, culminating in one of the greatest works of ecclesiastical architecture in the Adriatic. 1468 Ottoman Turks advance towards the Šibenik coast, remaining a constant threat for the next two centuries. 1511 An anti-aristocratic revolt led by Juraj Prokić takes over the city, only to be ruthlessly put down by the Venetians the following year. 1522 The towns of Knin and Skradin fall to the Ottoman Turks. 1571 Šibenik contributes a galley to the Venetian fleet at the Battle of Lepanto. 1615 Šibenik-born Renaissance-man Faust Vrančić publishes his book of inventions Machinae Novae. 1645-1669 Central Dalmatia is becomes a major front in the so-called Cretan War, a continent-straddling struggle between Venetians and Ottomans. 1647 An Ottoman attack on Šibenik is repulsed by troops under Baron von Degenfeld. 1649 Plague puts paid to three quarters of the city’s population. 1688 Knin is captured from the Ottomans by Venetian forces, with many local Croats serving in their ranks. 1699 The Peace of Sremski Karlovci confirms Venetian gains, bringing a greater measure of security to the Šibenik region. 1752 The powder store in St Michael’s Fortress is struck by lightning, creating a huge explosion and a fire that spreads throughout the city.

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1797 The Venetian Republic collapses, and Šibenik recognizes the rule of Austrian Emperor Francis II. 1802 The birth of Nikola Tommaseo, the Italian-language writer who collects Dalmatian folk songs. 1806-1813 Šibenik forms part of the French-ruled Illyrian Provinces. With the defeat of Napoleon Šibenik returns to Austrian control. 1873 The People’s Party under Ante Šupuk wins municipal elections. Croatian replaces Italian as the principal language of instruction in Šibenik’s schools. 1895 Thanks to ambitious mayor Šupuk, who builds a power station on the river Krka, Šibenik is one of the first towns in Europe to get an electricity supply. 1918-1920 Italian troops occupy Šibenik, until forced to leave by the terms of the Rapallo Treaty. Šibenik subsequently forms part of the newly-created Kingdom of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs (later renamed Yugoslavia). 1925 Šibenik is connected to the rest of Croatia by railway. 1941-1944 Šibenik is occupied first by Italians then Germans. Šibenik is liberated by the First Dalmatian Partisan Brigade. 1945 Croatia becomes a federal republic in a communistcontrolled Yugoslavia. 1948 Stalin ejects Yugoslavia from the comintern bloc. 1950s-1960s Croatia’s Adriatic coast becomes a major European tourist destination. 1958 The first ever Šibenik Children’s Festival is held. 1972 Hollywood actor Goran Višnjić is born in Šibenik 1979 Fifteen-year-old basketball player Dražen Petrović makes his debut for local team Šibenka. Petrović goes on to win the European Player of the Year award six times before suffering a fatal car crash in 1993. 1980 Yugoslavia’s long-serving President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. 1991 Croatia declares its independence from Yugoslavia. 1991 Aided by the Yugoslav Peoples’ Army, Serbian forces take control of the region around Knin, placing Šibenik on the front line of the conflict. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the conflict to a close. 2000 Croatia’s post-independence tourism boom gets into full swing. 2005 The opening of the Zagreb-Split motorway places Šibenik only a few hours’ drive from the heartland of Central Europe. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2011 The first Terraneo Music Festival puts Šibenik on the global rock map.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

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Burnumske Ide, June - September. Burnum, Krka Nacional Park

Exhibitions 18.05 Friday - 30.09 Sunday

Works by Juraj Dalmatinac outside Šibenik B-2, St Gregory’s Church, Ulica Jurja Dalmatinca. This master sculptor from the 15th century created amazing works on both sides of the Adriatic. He crafted all the stone heads surrounding Šibenik’s Saint James’ Cathedral and this exhibit gives visitors an insight into his entire opus with photo reproductions of his works beyond these shores. Q Admission free.

23.08 Thursday - 16.09 Sunday

Sea, people, coast C-3, City Museum, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, www.muzej-sibenik.hr. A traditional exhibition since 1975 which gathers and presents artistic works of the sea, sea landscapes, Mediterranean plants, vineyards, Dalmatian towns with their narrow streets and monuments, as well as their people. See this part of the world through the eyes of so many Croatian and foreign masters; the exhibition turns into a celebration of colours, lines and surfaces. Q Admission free.

Special events

Summer school 23.07 Monday - 01.08 Wednesday

School of Organs J/K-2, Mosećka 7, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 94. Out of 19 organs in the Šibenik diocese, 10 are historical, 4 are monuments and 5 are modern. That is why this annual event gathers excellent international lecturers who are all renowned organ players and is educational with seminars and workshops. There will be concerts in the Šibenik Cathedral and surrounding churches.

30.07 Monday - 05.08 Sunday

The 4th Summer Dance School Guy Perkov L-2, Antun Vrančić Gymnasium, Put gimnazije 64, Šibenik. Dancing is like dreaming with your feet and this is Šibenik’s favourite dance event of the year! Literally, two weeks of daily workshops with classical ballet, contemporary dance, MTV jazz, hip-hop, and breakdance. The dancers are experienced and it is great for both young and old. If interested, contact kelkope@ kelkope.hr.

23.06 Saturday - 24.06 Sunday

Festival of old wedding customs “Oj divojko, diži se iz dvora” Pirovac. Forget the fancy shmancy limousines, the wedding planner, bridal party and so on. Here visitors will be able to see and participate in exhibitions, ethno workshops, fashion shows and demonstrations of old customs from the Pirovac area. Weddings in particular!

Lost the beat? sibenik.inyourpocket.com Terraneo Festival, Anna Calvi

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CULTURE & EVENTS 04.07 Wednesday - 29.08 Wednesday Saint Rocco Acoustic Nights Muter. Chill or mellow out throughout the summer months

with acoustic music concerts which will be held on the hill top beside the little church of Saint Rocco. The church is one of the symbols of the island of Murter; and once your there, you simply must take in and absorb the majestic views that surround you. Dates for the concerts: 04.07; 09.07; 16.07; 25.07; 02.08; 09.08; 17.08; 25.08; 29.08.

04.07 Wednesday - 11.07 Wednesday

The Garden Festival Tisno, www.thegardenfestival.eu. Where else can you dance the day and night away whilst swimming in the sea or chilling beneath a canopy? Embark on a festival like no other, world artists amalgamate here and bring their music to the people. See 2020 Soundsystem, Free School, Nicolas Jaar and at least 40 top notch world DJs. Ohh and the Argonaughty Boat Parties…or Barbarella’s Discotheque where you can dance under the stars. There is Luxury Boutique Camping, an onsite Apartment Village. The set up is to a tea so as you enter the garden doors, prepare to enter the Musical Garden of Eden.

05.07 Thursday - 30.08 Thursday

Traditional Accapella Evenings D-2, Trg Ivana Pavla II, Mala loža. One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian Klapa (traditional accapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable thursday evening in the Šibenik square. Q Concerts start at 21:30.

12.07 Thursday - 16.07 Monday

Electric Elephant 2012 Tisno, www.electricelephant.co.uk. Another fiesta of DJs spinning their musical wizardry on turntables for five days and nights. See the likes of Karizma, Trevor Jackson, Lone, Moodymanc and others. The event is set in a dramatic natural amphitheatre overlooking islands in the distance.

12.07 Thursday - 08.08 Wednesday The Garden Festival, Kenny Dope

23.06 Saturday - 07.07 Saturday

International Children’s Festival Old city - Summer stage / Šibenik City Museum, Gradska vrata 3 / St. Krševan Gallery, Don Krste Stošića bb / Medulić Square / Dinko Zavorović Square / Croatian National Theatre, Kralja Zvonimira 1 / Bunari Square, www.mdf-sibenik.com. Established in 1958, this event bridges the city of Šibenik with its youth. The festival is famous not only for its performances but also for its creative dimension, encouraging kids to get involved with different art forms: drama classes, puppetry, musicals and theatre, film, literature and painting. So there are workshops galore, educational training, world presentations and more! The event is spread across different areas of the city.

Festival Musica Appassionata Cathedral of St James / Croatian National Theatre, Kralja Zvonimira 1 / Churches / Bunari Square. Classical music devotees come hence forth as this event brings together some renowned musicians both local and abroad. Stay tuned for further details!

03.07 Tuesday Zakiya Hooker Murter. This blues singer whose father was the legendary

John Lee Hooker continues to wave the flag for the genre in her own personal way. Her soulful voice is taking her around the world and she will perform live at the Lantana Beach Bar, Čigrađa Bay

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International Children’s Festival

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CULTURE & EVENTS

15.07 Sunday

25.07 Wednesday - 31.07 Tuesday

Lady of Carmel Procession

SuncéBeat 3

Vodice. The procession starts at the Holy Cross Parish Church (built from 1590-1660) in honour of Lady of Carmel and will finish at the Lady of Carmel sanctuary on the hill Okito. In 1909, local emigrants from Australia donated money to build the 14 Stations of the Cross positioned there.

Tisno, www.suncebeat.com. Another addition to the Garden Festival series is this intimate musical festival which attracts over 2000 musical lovers who know how to chill to the beats of this year’s line up; Dimitri from Paris, Motor City Drum Ensemble, Jazzanova feat. Paul Randolph, Dixon, Henrick Schwarz, Kyle Hall, Morgan Geist, Kerri Chandler and more…

19.07 Thursday - 21.07 Saturday

The 6th Off Blues & Jazz Festival E-2, Square in front of the St Francis’ monastery. A three day jazz jostling, blues burning fešta as the locals would call it. Held since 2007, this musical treat continues to grow as it draws respectable Croatian and world jazz/blues musicians and is set in the picturesque stone ambience of the Ivan Goran Kovačić Square.

24.07 Tuesday - 30.07 Monday

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28.07 Saturday

Games on korenat - Adria Meeting Tisno. Locals call it Igre na korentu and it consists of two teams - the mainland locals versus the island locals. They compete in different games of endurance, speed and power on the sea. The key is that the korenat sea currant around the Tisno channel is quite powerful and is used to create obstacles for the contestants.

Salsa Beach Splash Festival Solaris Beach Resort (Solaris Hotel Resort), www. salsabeachsplash.com. The word is, ‘1 hour break’! Indeed, you can kick your heels from 9am till 8am the next morning for 7 days straight. See world artists and dance companies from Africa to Latin America and as they call the ‘Solaris Beach Resort’ home; a stunning lagoon packed with pools, bars, restaurants, sunshades, and more. The temperature is set to rise… Salsa style!

Become a fan of Šibenik In Your Pocket on Murter Beer Fest

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Terraneo Festival

The 10th Jazz Festival Vodice

04.08 Saturday White Night by Amsterdam

Obala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice. There are those who unashamedly love jazz and those who live for jazz. See the lads and lasses of the eminent Croatian and world jazz scene with versatile styles of music from classical swing, rhythm and dixieland, to the more contemporary genres such as fusion and free jazz.

Hookah bar. On August the 4th, starts at 4pm, ends at 4am! Forrrr this is the one night that Amsterdam comes to Vodice. See some of the best resident DJ’s from the Dutch city’s club scene including Marly Mar, Jayh Samson, Robert Feelgood, Raymundo and others. Dress code is white. It includes video projections and a light show to spruce up the night.

01.08 Wednesday

05.08 Sunday - 06.08. Monday Free Music Festival Murter. Craving for some live music! Then come on down

29.07 Sunday - 30.07 Monday

The 6th Murterski Pir Murter. See the forgotten traditional wedding customs of old from this island. Witness the parade where all the participants are dressed in costume and dance traditional folklore on the main square, a dance of special rhythm and choreography but without music. Customs such as the bride having pirovnjaci who carry the bride’s dota, an old treasury chest filled with bed spreads, clothes, garden tools and a mandrel for winding wool. Then the locals give all attendees wine, and…. Well you’ll just have to see the rest for yourself.

04.08 Saturday

The 33rd Traditional Skradin Dalmatian Klape festival Trg Male Gospe, Skradin. Klape are a group of a cappella vocalists singing in different range from tenor to baritone. This style of music and chord is typical of Dalmatia as it is considered ‘the music of stone and sea’. The magical sounds and harmonizing voices that touch the soul will once again fill the picturesque streets of one of Croatia’s oldest towns.

04.08 Saturday

Vodice Fiesta Obala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice. The sparks are flying and this is the one night in August deemed the craziest summer night in Vodice. Music can be heard at all city squares and in all cafes; the town comes to life with a fireworks spectacle and a huge carnival/party type of atmosphere. Q Show starts at 21:00.

to the Čigrađa Bay for the 4th edition of this music festival with jazz, alternative and blues performers from Croatia and abroad.

07.08 Tuesday - 10.08 Friday

Terraneo Festival O-4, Ex barrack Bribirskih Knezova, Šibenik, www. terraneofestival.com. After last year’s debut success, the Terraneo Music Festival shines once again with a three day programme. Two huge stages, an open air party zone and two indoor club venues ought to provide entertainment galore! Pitch a tent, or even get involved with the ecological programme on offer, going green is an essential key with eco workshops and organised bike rides. A shuttle bus service will run from the City of Šibenik to the festival venue. Musically, the bands vary in genre with indie, new wave, post punk, and electro pop to heavy rock. The line-up includes The XX, Friendly Fires, The Horrors, The Ting Tongs and a jolly whole lot more. Ohhh… a diverse DJ programme in various hangars and bars is the icing on a hot sunny summer day. Q Tickets 350kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com

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CULTURE & EVENTS

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Cinemas

Dražen Petrović

Famous People Arsen Dedić (1938- ) If you’re in a Šibenik café and you hear some old crooner warbling from the sound system then the chances are it will be Arsen Dedić, the Šibenik-born poet and singersongwriter who has ruled supreme as the king of Croatian chanson ever since his first album Čovjek kao ja (A Man Like Me) was released in 1969. Dedić’s best-known songs are wistful evocations of past loves, accompanied by sophisticated piano-and-orchestra backing. Easy listening perhaps, but with balls. Maksim Mrvica (1975- ) A product of the Croatian Academy of Music and the Budapest Conservatoire, the Šibenik-born pianist is one of the world’s prime practitioners of popular classical music, selling albums by the bucket-load in a range of global markets - especially in the Far East where Mrvica is a major star. Male-model looks and extravagant stage-shows have all played their part. Look up the 2003 hit album The Piano Player (EMI) to find out what all the fuss is about. Mate Mišo Kovač (1941- ) Born in Tribunj north of Šibenik, Kovač was one of Croatia’s (indeed Yugoslavia’s) biggest selling pop stars of the Sixties and Seventies, and still is a stadium-filling attraction. His songs are melodic and sentimental in a way that’s traditional for the Adriatic coast, and with long black hair, bushy moustache, and glinting medallion strategically hung around the neck, he remains every inch the old-school Dalmatian charmer. Dražen Petrović (1964-1993) Of all Šibenik’s native sons, Dražen Petrović is the one who inspires most in the way of unconditional love and respect - not just in Croatia but across the sporting world. The extraordinarily gifted basketball player won trophies with Šibenik, Cibona Zagreb, Real Madrid, Portland and New Jersey before his tragically early demise in a car accident. Named European Player of the year six times, and posthumously enrolled into Basketball’s Hall of Fame in 2002, he was a unique and irreplaceable talent. Goran Višnjić (1972 -) The most immediately recognizable product of Šibenik is Goran Višnjić, who played Dr Luka Kovač in ER from 1999 until 2008. Before that he was famous for playing Hamlet at the Dubrovnik Festival seven years in succession, and for his role as Risto the driver in Michael Winterbottom’s Welcome to Sarajevo in 1997. Currently filming the Millennium Trilogy (based on the Scandinavian crime novels of Stieg Larsson), his face looks likely to remain stamped on the popular consciousness for some considerable time.

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CineStar Šibenik P-4, Velimira Škorpika 23 (Dalmare centre), w w w.blit z-cinestar.hr. For reservations call 060 32 32 33. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Murter Summer Cinema Rudina bb, Murter, tel. (+385-) 095 913 49 92, www.murter.hr/kino. Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Šibenik Summer Cinema E-2, Trg Ivana Gorana Kovačića. Screenings star t ever y day at 21:15. Admission free. For more information please call Mr Ivan Jurjev on (+385-) 091 212 58 77. Q Open June 20 - August 1. 11.08 Saturday

Bob Sinclar Aurora Club, Kamenar bb, Primošten, www.auroraclub. hr. This French DJ and producer is set to bring the house down with his so called passion for house music. World hits include ‘Love Generation’ (with Gary Pine) and ‘World, Hold On’, amongst other club hits.

11.08 Saturday

International Donkey Race Trg Rudina, Tisno. Are donkeys as stubborn as people say they are? Come and see this traditional race which began in 1963 and has over the years turned into an international event. It is unique in promoting and preserving donkeys, considered the authentic Dalmatian animal.

11.08 Saturday - 19.08 Sunday

The Betina Gajeta Week Betina. These are not your run of the mill 100m yachts folks, these are leut, gajeta and kaić, three types of ships not intended for quick sail, but heavy peasant ships built to carry cargo. The Betina Regatta pays homage to the most successful type of wooden ships that farmers and fishermen used to sail. See the imprint they had on local society back in yonder with entertainment provided all night long.

24.08 Friday - 25.08 Saturday

Šibenik Chanson C-3, Summer stage. This ancient city has chanson music carved in its stone and the schedule is proof of that. The first, ‘Night of Old Songs’ (traces back to the classic hits of old that have left an everlasting mark on the Croatian music scene) and the second evening is a ‘Night of New Songs’. All artists will perform live together with the festival orchestra and ensembles.

Days of the Latin Sail

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CULTURE & EVENTS Culture Centres Juraj Šižgorić City Library E-1, Poljana 6, tel.

(+385-22) 20 12 80, knjiznica-sibenik@si.t-com.hr, www.knjiznica-sibenik.hr. Q June 18 - September 3 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. September 4 - June 17 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

07.09 Friday - 09.09 Sunday

The Fair in Medieval Šibenik B/C/D/E-1/2/3, Old City. Travel back in time and see Šibenik as it once was with actors retelling local ancient tales, plus street walkers, traditional folk costume and dance, gastronomy, knights, craftsmen and more. The event honours the feast of Saint Michael, patron to the city. You know those portrait faces surrounding the apsidal wreath around Saint James’ Cathedral; this is when their spirit comes to life.

08.09 Saturday The 6th Murterski Pir

The Dalmatian Klapa

Murter Fiesta

Murter On the Feast of Our Lady’s Birthday the island of

Murter marvels with rejoice as locals and visitors pack the streets and celebrate this Holy occasion.

30.09 Sunday

Days of the Latin Sail Murter. A traditional event which features rowing, sailing, exhibiting, eating and learning! The regatta ‘Latin Sail’ will be held on September 30 at the Murter Hramina Bay. September turns educational with workshops, a junior sailing course, lectures, and other educational extravaganzas. Visitors can also enter teams who are keen on a splish and splash with a paddle.

Galleries

If the coastal regions of Croatia had a musical trademark then it would undoubtedly be the stirring sound of the klapa. Performing a capella songs with delicate harmonies, the klapa is basically a small choir numbering anything from three members upwards. Often made up of informal groups of friends with an instinctual feel for age-old Adriatic melodies, these choirs are an important focus of local life and a source of considerable pride for the communities they come from. Typical klapa songs focus on traditional Adriatic concerns: falling in love over a plate of squid, going night fishing with the lads, or pining for partners who are sailing the seven seas. Although klapa harmonies tend towards the smooth and soulful, the style retains a raw emotional edge: hearing a klapa perform live - whether on stage at a festival or simply serenading themselves at the table of a konoba - can send shivers down the spine. Best places to experience klapa singing at its best are the Omiš Klapa Festival (www.fdk.hr), which features outdoor concerts in the centre of Omiš throughout the month of July; or at the Dalmatian Song Evenings (Večeri dalmatinske pisme; www.vdp.hr) in Kaštel Kambelovac in early July.

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St Chrysogonus Gallery C/D-2, Don Krste Stošića bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49, galerija.sv.krsevana@si.tcom.hr, www.galerija-sv-krsevana.hr. As part of the old Romanic church, the main exhibiting area is designed as the gallery of contemporary art in Šibenik. Exhibitions by Croatian and international artists are often organized. The gallery also has a studio and the Matija Gallery in the historical part of Šibenik. Q June - September 30 Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 -21:00. Closed Sun. October - May 31 Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. St Chrysogonus Gallery Studio (Matija Gallery)

D-2, Petra Nakića bb. The exhibiting area as part of the Sveti Krševan Gallery, intended for contemporary art. It is located in the old baroque building in the centre of Šibenik. Q June - September 30 Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. October - May 31 Open 10:00 -13:00, 18:00 -20:00. Closed Sun.

Murter Špica Every Wednesday and Saturday in July and August a street festival is held on the main street in Murter with action aplenty.

Theatre Croatian National Theatre D/E-1, Kralja

Zvonimira 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 24 73, propaganda@ hnksi.hr, www.hnksi.hr.

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MAGNIFICENT MEŠTROVIĆ

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The Church of the Holy Redeemer, Z. Alajbeg

Every country has its national treasures: people or institutions that define that nation; that make it proud or simply make its people a little gladder to be alive than they would have been otherwise. One of Croatia’s national treasures is undoubtedly the sculptor Ivan Meštrović. In his work you can clearly see the conflicts and passions that made him, like his statues, very much larger than life. Many of Croatia’s major cities, as well as its small towns and hamlets, boast works that are profound expressions of Meštrović’s powerful and sometimes turbulent character. Stand at the foot of the mighty statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin in Split and the most committed atheist can’t help being instilled with a sense of awe. Gaze at Meštrović’s studies of peasant women, and you can feel the essence of their culture, the artist’s reverence for his roots in the rocky Dalmatian hinterland. Meštrović was not born in Dalmatia. Around the time of his birth in 1883, his parents moved to the village of Vrpolje in Slavonia, eastern Croatia, in search of work. There, his father Mate, a literate man and a skilled mason, found work as a labourer on the new railway. The family moved back to their home village of Otavice, just inland from Šibenik, when the young Ivan was tiny. Meštrović was very much influenced by his childhood in the place where the Dinaric Alps plunge into the Adriatic Sea. The terrain is harsh and rocky: there, working with stone is a natural reflection of people’s connection with their environment. The tough conditions contrast with an austere but starkly beautiful culture. The rhythms of life are expressed in song, dance and crafts and are framed by the forbidding backdrop of pale rock against the dazzling blue sea. The young Meštrović tended sheep; he drank in the ballads of the villagers and the Bible stories his mother recited by heart. He taught himself to read and write by comparing those recited stories with the pages of his father’s Bible. He tried to carve the characters from these tales in wood and stone. At the age of 17, Meštrović’s talent for carving was noticed by a number of people who raised the money necessary to send

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him to work as an apprentice under a stonemason named Pavle Bilinić in Split. Split still today is a living museum with the large and well-preserved palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian forming its core, and a magical mixture of gothic, renaissance, baroque and later architectures. It’s easy to imagine the young Meštrović walking the polished stone flags of the street and gazing up in wonder: he would go on to design some equally splendid buildings himself.

“Lada”

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MAGNIFICENT MEŠTROVIĆ

“The Merchants are Banished from the Temple”

of travel. A number of commissions, including the powerful fountain “The Source of Life” which today stands in front of the National Theatre in Zagreb, enabled the couple to spend time in Austria, France, Italy, Serbia, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and the United States. Meštrović worked and exhibited profusely. In 1903 came the first of many exhibitions with the world-famous Vienna Secession group. In 1911 he won the grand prize for sculpture at the international exhibition in Rome, where Gustav Klimt won the first prize for painting. His circle of friends comprised the most renowned artists of the day. He created works which still stand today in countries throughout Europe and beyond. Perhaps his most famous works outside Croatia are the Spearman and the Bowman (or the “Indians”) in Grant Park (Michigan Ave), Chicago. He was the first living artist to have a solo exhibition in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (1915) and in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (1947). Meštrović left Croatia during the Second World War after his imprisonment by the pro-Nazi wartime regime. After the Second World War he refused to live under Yugoslav communist regime so in 1947 he accepted a post at Syracuse University, New York State, and in 1955 moved to Notre Dame University, South Bend, Indiana, where he died in 1962. He was buried in his parents’ village of Otavice, Croatia. During his lifetime, Meštrović became a member of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the American Academy of Arts and Letters and the American Institute of Architects, and an honorary member of The Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. He became an American citizen in 1954. His legacy includes hundreds of sculptures, medals, monuments and public buildings all over the world. Ten years before he died, he made a gift of the bulk of his life’s work to the nation, including his family homes in Split and Zagreb and chapels in Split and Otavice. These are now Ivan Meštrović Museums and are open to the public. The year 2012 marks the 50th anniversary of the death of this remarkable man. So make a date to see some of his works.

“Women by the Sea”, marble, 1926.

Bilinić and his wife Gina felt their charge showed exceptional promise and succeeded in bringing his talent to the attention of an Austrian mine-owner in Drniš who, among others, undertook to financially support Meštrović while he studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. Before that could begin, however, a new challenge awaited the young sculptor: learning the German language. It’s important to remember at this point that Meštrović had never had any formal schooling. His first years in Vienna were hard since his benefactors reneged on their promises. Meštrović rebelled against some aspects of Academy life, but his years in Vienna were formative, opening his eyes to the intellectual and artistic currents of the time. It was here that he met his first wife Ruža. Heeding the advice of Auguste Rodin (who had an enduring respect for the young sculptor), the couple embarked on a life

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“Contemplation”

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WHERE TO STAY

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Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Šibenik is a city notoriously short on hotels, but there is a major tourist resort at Solaris 6km outside the centre, and plenty of characterful accommodation opportunities further up and down the coast. This stretch of the Adriatic offers a wealth of inviting camping opportunities, and there is abundant private accommodation on the island of Murter and in coastal settlements like Pirovac and Brodarica.

Up market Solaris Beach Resort Hotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, fax (+385-22) 36 18 00, info@ solaris.hr, www.solaris.hr. The Solaris centre is a purposebuilt resort 6km south of Šibenik, occupying a green peninsula near the village of Brodarica. There are five seasonally-open hotels here, all concrete constructions dating from the 1960s that have been extensively refurbished. Hotels Ivan, Jure, Andrija and Niko are 4 star, while Jakov is 3 star. Hotel Ivan is the pearl in Solaris’s crown, with conference facilities and a large wellness centre boasting saunas, solarium, massage facilities and beauty treatments. The wellness facilities are available to guests in Solaris’s other four hotels. As well as long stretches of concrete and pebble beach, Solaris contains well-maintained sports grounds, a ‘Dalmatian village’, a complex of stone houses, and a childrens’ play centre complete with trampoline, carting circuit, and a pirate ship. The whole complex is surrounded by a fence. Open March 22 - October 28. Q1298 rooms (54 singles €69 - 126, 234 doubles €92 - 168, 795 triples €106 - 184, 185 quads €124 - 210, 7 suites €152 - 277, 23 Junior Suites €226 - 311). PTHAULGKwW Tisno Zapadna Gomilica bb, Tisno, tel./fax (+385-22) 43 81 82, kontakt@hoteltisno.hr, www.hoteltisno.com. An intimate 9-room family-run hotel in a historic three-storey waterside house, the Tisno offers swanky, fully-equipped rooms decked out in plush dark red fabrics and solid cherrybrown furnishings. The secluded back yard with small outdoor pool is a major feature. Prices include breakfast. Open April - November. Q8 rooms (3 doubles €80 - 120, 1 suite €140 - 240, 4 Junior Suites €80 - 120). PZARLGCW hhhh

Sibenik.inyourpocket.com Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with Šibenik In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go!

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Camping Adriatic Huljerat bb, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 12 23, fax (+385-22) 57 13 60, camp-adriatiq@adriatiq. com, www.autocamp-adriatiq.com. Three kilometres northwest of Primošten beside the main coastal highway, this is a large and well-equipped site occupying a terraced hillside right above the sea. Almost all of the pitches are shaded by pines, and the camp’s impressive rocks-and-pebbles beach is the briefest of strolls away. Open April 11 - October 31. Q Person/per day 25 - 60kn, Camper 54 - 90kn, Camping trailer 41 - 63kn, Tent 37 - 56kn, Car 26 - 42kn, Pets 33 - 46kn, Accomodation tax 3.50 - 7kn. TA6LKW Hostin Rastovac, Tisno, tel. (+385-1) 459 29 32/ (+385-22) 43 87 22, fax (+385-22) 43 87 22, hostinkomerc@zg.htnet.hr, www.hostin.hr. On the mainland side of Tisno and just off the main road to Šibenik, the Hostin campsite and apartment complex spreads over an olivecovered hillside overlooking Rastovac bay. The site has its own rock-and-pebble beach, and the centre of Tisno is within walking distance via a coastal path around the Petrica Glava peninsula. Open June - October. Q Person/per day €3 - 10, Camper and Camping trailer €10 - 13, Tent €7 - 9, Pets €8, Accomodation tax €0.49 - 0.97. A6LW Jasenovo Uvala Jasenovo, Žaborić, tel. (+385-) 098 906 32 50, fax (+385-22) 35 05 05, kamp@jasenovo.hr, www.jasenovo.hr. This popular seafront site in the sleepy seaside village of Žaborić occupies gently sloping terrain with plenty of tree cover. There is a small childrens’ play area, a café, well-tended shrubs, and Žaborić’s pebbly beach is right next door. The ground is stony so take care not to bend your tent pegs. Open May - October. Q Person/per day € 2 - 7.50, Camping trailer €5 - 9, Car € 2 - 4, Tent €4.80 - 8, Pets €1.50 - 4, Accomodation tax €0.70 - 0.90. 6LNW Jezera Lovišća Uvala Lovišća bb, Jezera, tel. (+385-22) 43 96 00/(+385-22) 43 90 75, fax (+385-22) 43 92 15, info@jezera-kornati.hr, www.jezera-kornati.hr. Spread across terraced slopes above a broad bay, this large site is set amidst well-tended patches of Mediterranean garden and with ample tree cover. Restaurant, bars and supermarket are all on site. A small children’s play area and a shallow shingle beach make this a good place for young families. The centre of Tisno is a 20-minute walk or short bike ride around the coast. Open April 26 - October 8. Q Person/per day 35 - 73kn, Children 21 - 51kn, Tent 21 - 46kn, Car and Tent 53 - 92kn, Car and Camping trailer 58 - 124kn, Camper 46 - 116kn, Pets 36 - 58kn, Accomodation tax 7kn. TALKW Krka Skočići 21, Lozovac, tel. (+385-22) 77 84 95/ (+385-) 098 84 80 12, goran.skocic@si.t-com.hr, www.camp-krka.hr. On the road between Lozovac and Skradin, this pleasant site under the trees is a convenient spot for exploring the National Park for those with their own transport - although it is not within walking distance of any Summer 2012 6/18/2012 4:35:21 PM

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WHERE TO STAY major attractions. Tourist tax included in the price. Open March - October 31. Q Person/per day €1.60 - 4, Camping trailer €3.20 - 4, Tent €2.80 - 5, Car €1.60 - 2. TNKW Miran Zagrebačka bb, Pirovac, tel. (+385-22) 46 68 03, fax (+385-22) 46 70 22, reservations@rivijera.hr, www. rivijera.hr. This campsite is grouped under pines and olive trees in the grounds of the Miran hotel (see above), and with access to the same pebbly beach. Not all the plots get shade, but it’s a nice quiet spot, located around the headland from Pirovac town centre. Open April 23 - October 15. Q Person/ per day 3.5 - 8€, Children 3 - 6€, Pitch 8 - 30€, Camping trailer 40 - 120€, Pets 4 - 7€, Accomodation tax 0.5 - 1€. AL Slanica Podvrške bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 42 05, fax (+385-22) 43 59 11, info@murter-slanica.hr, www. murter-slanica.hr. Perfectly positioned just above Slanica beach, this site offers pitches on an attractively rocky slope underneath pine trees. It is a 20-minute walk from the centre of town but there is the odd snack bar and restaurant nearby. In summer the air is thick with the sound of crickets. Open May - September 30. Q Person/per day 27.50 - 42.50kn, Car 22 - 25kn, Camper 36 - 57kn, Tent 25 - 36kn, Pets 20kn. ALW Solaris Camping Resort Hotelsko naselje Solaris bb, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 36 40 00/(+385-22) 36 10 17, fax (+385-22) 36 18 01, camping@solaris.hr, www. campingsolaris.com. This large and highly-regimented site on the western edge of the Solaris resort enjoys a sea-front position, with supermarket, restaurant and childrens’ play area all on site. The other facilities of the Solaris resort are at guests’ disposal. Open March 22 - October 28. Q Person / per day €4 - 9.50, Children €4.8 - 7.6, Pitch €8 - 35, Camping place €5 - 19, Pets €4.5 - 7, Accomodation tax €1. T6LBKC

Mid range Jadran D-3, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 52, tel. (+385-

22) 24 20 09/(+385-22) 45 44 37, fax (+385-22) 44 26 11, rivijera@si.t-com.hr, www.rivijera.hr. The only hotel in central Šibenik, the Jadran is the place to be if you want to walk out of the door and straight into the Old Town. Rooms are appropriately furnished for a 3-star, with small TVs and cramped en-suite bathrooms. Half of the rooms look out onto the palm-lined Riva, and there is a reasonable restaurant and café on site. Q57 rooms (6 singles €57 - 70, 43 doubles €50 - 58, 8 triples €46 - 55). Prices are per person. PJAGBK hhh Panorama Šibenski most 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 33 98, fax (+385-22) 21 31 11, hotel-panorama@si.t-com.hr, www.hotel-panorama.hr. Located right next to the main road bridge high above the Šibenik Channel, the aptly-named Panorama is a good choice for those who have a car and don’t mind being 6km out of the city. Surrounded by olive groves and scrub-covered Mediterranean maquis, it’s certainly an evocative spot. Rooms are reasonably plush with ruby-hued carpets and avocado walls, and simple shower cubicles in the bathrooms. All rooms come with a stretch of balcony - some offering superb vistas of the Channel. There is a gym on site, alongside a decent restaurant and a café. Q20 rooms (20 singles 310 - 462kn, 20 doubles 480 - 784kn, 20 triples 651 - 1062kn). PHAFLGBKXW hhh

Out of town Borovnik Trg Šime Vlašića 3, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43

97 00, fax (+385-22) 43 97 11, info@hotel-borovnik. com, www.hotel-borovnik.com. A medium-sized hotel right beside Tisno’s bridge, the Borovnik offers pleasantly creamy en-suite rooms in a mixture of styles - some have simple

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bathrooms with shower cubicle, others have swanky jaccuzzistyle tubs. The palm-shaded back yard with chairs set around a small circular pool is a soothing place to relax. Open March - November. Q63 rooms (7 singles €50 - 90, 26 doubles €78 - 132, 24 triples €109 - 185, 6 Junior Suite €110 - 190). Prices include breakfast. PTHAGKCW hhh

Colentum Put Slanice bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43

11 00, fax (+385-22) 43 52 55, info@hotel-colentum. hr, www.hotel-colentum.com. A series of interlocking grey cubes set on the slopes above Slanica bay, the Colentum will never win any awards for fine architecture. Once inside however there is a comforting sense of neatness and comfort, with tidy en-suite rooms decked out in happy, brain-soothing colours. There is a small outdoor pool, and a good proportion of the rooms face directly out towards the sea - if you want a maritime view ask before booking. Open April - October. Q89 rooms (89 doubles €83 - 195, 89 triples €100 - 234). PALGBKCW hhh

Kristina Šetalište Miše Sladoljeva 3, Vodice, tel. (+385-

22) 44 41 73, fax (+385-22) 44 04 73, hotel-kristina@ si.t-com.hr, www.hotel-kristina.hr. This medium-sized two-star, two-storey block doesn’t look much from the outside, but it has a nice sea-front position on the peninsula just west of the centre. Rooms are functional and furniture slightly old-fashioned, although if you manage to get one of the shore-facing balconies then you won’t be too worried about further frills. Open April - October. Q20 rooms (20 doubles 400 - 500kn). ALGBKW hh

Hostels Globo F-2, Sarajevska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 337 37 44/(+385-) 091 337 37 45, info@hostel-globo. com, www.hostel-globo.com. A perfectly positioned hostel which is a mere one minute walk from the Old Town and features guestrooms with 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 beds. All guestrooms have internet access and closets with locks. For extra convenience, visitors have access to the kitchenette, living room, Wi-Fi, TV, bathroom, and luggage storage. Q 42 dorm beds, 112 - 133kn per person. PAGW Indigo D-2, Jurja Barakovića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 01 59/(+385-) 091 337 37 44, info@hostel-indigo. com, www.hostel-indigo.com. A super little family-run hostel, Indigo is as funky as its name suggests and twice as friendly. You’re right in the Old Town and all rooms have sea views. Rooms are clean and cheerful, the bathrooms are a delight, and there’s a cute buffet where you can eat nearby. Towels and bedding are included in the price, which is per person, with supplements if you want a room to yourself. Q 20 dorm beds, 112kn per person. PJARGW Vijur Žaborička 17, Šibenik, tel./fax (+385-22) 34 01 80, tel. (+385-) 091 523 22 53, hostel.vijur@ gmail.com, www.hostelvijur.hr. If you’re travelling to Šibenik as part of a large group and need somewhere cheap and cheerful to stay, the Vijur hostel could be a contender, since it can host up to 50 people. It’s located in the suburb of Ražine 4km from the centre, which can be reached by bus. The hostel, which is basic and pleasant, is spotlessly clean and friendly, and has a whole bunch of facilities. Perfect if you plan to use Šibenik as your base camp for visits to the nearby national parks and islands. Q 50 dorm beds, 100 - 150kn per person. PALGW

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WHERE TO STAY

Maestral Prvić Luka, tel. (+385-22) 44 83 00, fax

(+385-22) 44 83 01, info@hotelmaestral.com, www. hotelmaestral.com. Something of an antidote to the concrete hotels of the mainland resorts, the 3-star Maestral occupies a lovely green-shuttered building right on Prvić Luka’s port. Built as a schoolhouse in the 19th-century, the hotel offers stylish rooms with plenty of exposed stonework, hardwood floors and simple but sleek furnishings. Prices vary according to whether your room looks inland or out to sea, so always check when booking. Open April - November. Q12 rooms (11 doubles 338 - 465kn, 1 apartment 1140 1388kn). PAGBKXW hhh Mihovil Ante Anića 3, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 66 44 44, fax (+385-22) 66 44 42, slavko.zivkovic@si.t-com.hr, www.hotelmihovil.com. Medium-sized, family-run Mihovil offers modest but neat rooms in a jolly-looking building that resembles an angular lemon-meringue pie. The hotel is located right on the very edge of town, in a residential district that has a calming village-like atmosphere. Q32 rooms (3 singles 300 - 540kn, 27 doubles 400 - 640kn, 2 apartments 540 - 840kn). PALBKXW hhh Miran Zagrebačka bb, Pirovac, tel. (+385-22) 45 44 37, fax (+385-22) 44 26 11, rivijera@si.t-com.hr, www. rivijera.hr. A three-storey block at the western end of Pirovac, Miran has its own pebbly gravel beach, with views of Betina (with its distinctive church belfry) on the island of Murter across the water. Rooms are primly furnished with ensuite WC/shower: all come with balconies. There is also a choice of one- or two-bedroom self-catering bungalows in the hotel grounds. Open April 23 - October 15. Q71 rooms (7 singles €43 - 83, 57 doubles €33 - 64, 7 triples €27 - 48). Prices are per person. ALGKC hhh

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Olympia Ljudevita Gaja 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 24

52, fax (+385-22) 45 24 20, prodaja@olympiavodice. hr, www.olympiavodice.hr. Consisting of a distinctive pair of pink-coloured ziggurats, the Olympia is one of the better addresses in the Šibenik region, offering plush and spacious rooms with free wifi, balconies and - in most cases - a sea view. An outdoor pool is right outside the front door, and Vodice’s beach is only a two-minute stroll away. The on-site wellness centre offers all manner of pampering. Q241 rooms (215 singles 720 - 1130kn, 215 doubles 450 - 690kn, 26 apartments 1420 - 3100kn). Prices include breakfast. PTHAUFLKDCW hhhh

Punta Grgura Ninskog 1, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45

14 51, fax (+385-22) 45 14 34, sales@hotelivodice. hr, w w w.hotelivodice.hr. Well-organized four-star establishment with a main building set among pines and three annexes - all are within easy walking distance of the concrete-and-gravel beach, and the centre of Vodice is three minutes away. Rooms are plain but well-appointed, although most bathrooms have shower cubicle rather than bathtub. It is busy in summer, when breakfast time can be a bit of a crush. Q312 rooms (9 singles €68 - 128, 282 doubles €80 - 175, 18 triples €98 - 158, 3 Junior Suites €138 - 224). PHARUFLGKDCwW hhhh

Skradinski Buk Burinovac bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-22)

77 17 71, fax (+385-22) 77 17 70, skradinski-buk@ si.t-com.hr, www.skradinskibuk.hr. Perfectly positioned for expeditions into the Krka National Park, this mediumsized hotel offers smallish but well-appointed rooms in muted oranges and yellows. It’s right in the pedestrianized centre of historic Skradin, a fine location for evening strolls. Q29 rooms (3 singles 258 - 408kn, 19 doubles 399 632kn, 3 triples 449 - 683kn, 4 apartments 449 - 683kn). PJARLGBKXW hhh

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WHERE TO STAY

Spongiola Obala I 58, Krapanj, tel. (+385-22) 34 89 00, fax (+385-22) 34 89 03, info@spongiola.com, www. spongiola.com. This smart, comfortable and rather intimate mid-size hotel stands right on Krapanj’s seafront, with views back across the water towards the mainland settlement of Brodarica. Doubles and suites come with hardwood floors, soothing colours, and sepia photos of the island’s sponge divers. About half the rooms have small balconies. A display of sponges and antique pottery in the both the lobby and the spiral staircase point to the island’s fascinating past, and there’s an engaging museum of sponge diving in the basement. Also downstairs are sauna, solarium, gym and small swimming pool. There is a scuba-diving school based at the hotel, and a small crescent of rock-and-pebble beach outside the door. Open April - October. Q23 rooms (8 doubles €60 - 85, 10 triples €60 - 85, 5 apartments €75 - 100). Prices are per person. PARFBKDCW hhhh Villa Radin Grgura Ninskog 10, Vodice, tel. (+38522) 44 04 15, fax (+385-22) 44 02 11, hotel-villa@ radin.hr, www.hotel-villa.radin.hr. If you’re looking for an intimate, small-scale and rather swanky hotel in the midst of a teeming package resort, then Villa Radin is probably the answer. Small size assures attentive service by people who might actually remember your name, and the lush garden and outdoor pool provide a feeling of private-holiday-villa contentment. All the rooms have sea-facing balconies. Open May - October. Q13 rooms (12 singles €78 - 143, 12 doubles €60 - 110, 1 apartment €100 - 150). Prices are per person. PHALGBKCW hhhh Vrata Krke Lozovac bb, Lozovac, tel. (+385-22) 77 80 91, fax (+385-22) 77 80 92, info@vrata-krke.hr, www. vrata-krke.hr. Right opposite the Lozovac entrance to the National Park, this bright ochre-coloured building is the ideal base from which to explore the cataracts and canyons of the Šibenik In Your Pocket Sibenik 2.indd 20

Krka. Standard doubles come with flat-screen TVs, small balconies and WC/shower, while the swankier apartments offer full-size bathtubs with retro fittings. The carpet in the hallways and most of the rooms features a wavy green pattern that we rather liked. Q44 rooms (40 singles 285 503kn, 40 doubles 225 - 435kn, 4 apartments 293 - 566kn). PHARULGBKW hhh Zora Raduča 11, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 00 48, fax (+385-22) 57 11 20, hotel-zora@adriatiq.com, www.hotelzora-adriatiq.com. Ideally situated on a pinecovered headland right above the beach, Zora is a sizeable establishment embracing several accommodation blocks (and a conference centre) linked to each other by long corridors. Choose between simple en-suite 3-star rooms, or slightly swisher 4-star doubles featuring fancier colour schemes and more solid furnishings. A huge sea-facing breakfast room, cable internet, children’s play centre and onsite spa facilities constitute the major additional attributes. Open March 12 - October 31. Q324 rooms (10 singles €82 - 155, 274 doubles €56 - 111, 7 suites €278 - 448, 33 Family Rooms €82 - 155). Prices include breakfast and dinner. PTHARFGKDCW hhh

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RESTAURANTS

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In Memory of Our Friends and Colleagues Mirna Cindrić 1967 - 2012.

Traditional Barun Podsolarsko 66, Mandalina, tel. (+385-22) 35 06

66. Based in a large family house midway between Brodarica and the Solaris complex, Barun has a big first-floor dining room with views towards the green olive plantations surrounding Solaris’s bay, and outdoor seating in a garden planted with palms and lush Mediterranean plants. Local fish and shellfish form the mainstay of the menu, although it’s the pasta dishes that bring many in-the-know Šibenik diners out this far. Q July - August 31 Open 11:00 - 23:00. September - June 30 Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (85 - 180kn). PALGB Dalmatino D-2, Fra Nikole Ružića 1, tel. (+385-22) 34 05 43/(+385-) 091 542 48 08. A classic tavern set in the heart of town with rustic items used as décor. ‘Konobe’ or village taverns, typically house smoked meats, wine and olive oil and this eatery has all of the above; the menu bursts with excellent fish and meats that are prepared in traditional ways. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. June - October Open 18:00 - 24:00. (60 - 110kn). JNGB

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

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N No Credit cards

Gradska straža E-2, Uskočka 12, tel. (+385-22) 20 03 36. Located on the waterfront in the Old Town, this adorable little restaurant has Mediterranean written all over the menu. Recommendations include goulash, stews, beef, cod, tripe, pasta, eel, stuffed peppers and more. The A La ‘Carte menu is nifty too as are the typical wines from the Šibenik area. Q April - October 15 Open 08:00 - 23:00. (30 - 130kn). JNGB Kanela E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 49 86. A small tavern with five tables inside and slightly more on the outdoor terrace, Kanela is arguably the most traditional of the eating establishments along Šibenik’s Riva, with an exposed-stone interior hung with old-style lanterns. Fresh fish, pork chops and crustaceans are grilled on an open hearth that’s visible at the back of the dining room. Veal or octopus baked under an ember-covered peka is on offer if you order well in advance. Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. October - May 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 110kn). PJNB Pelegrini B-3, Jurja Dalmatinca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 37 01, rudi.s@si.t-com.hr, www.pelegrini.hr. Occupying a renovated medieval building just up the steps from Šibenik Cathedral, Pelegrini offers a winning blend of bare-stone historical authenticity and contemporar y design cool. Bruschetta, home-made ravioli and risotto number among the light snacks and starters, while the mains feature a lot of recipes that mix modern fusion (Teriyaki trout) with Adriatic tradition (red mullet with lentils). The wine list is extensive and offers plenty of choice when it comes to ordering by the glass. High quality cuisine and service, deservedly high prices. Q June - October 31 Open 12:00 - 24:00. November - March 31 Open Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. April - May 31 Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (80 - 120kn). PJAGBX Summer 2012 6/18/2012 4:35:35 PM

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RESTAURANTS Peškarija B-3, Obala palih omladinaca 6, tel. (+385-) 091 111 27 27. The name of this hostelry means “The Fish Market”, so no prizes for guessing what’s on the menu. Peškarija has a pleasant terrace with a sea view. Q May September 30 Open 11:00 - 24:00. October - April 30 Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PJAB Rivica E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 26 91. Enjoying an enviable quayside position, Rivica is a traditional Dalmatian restaurant that has been given a modern makeover, surrounding diners with soothing fawn hues and smart furnishings rather than the usual nautical trinkets. The grilled fish and meat dishes are unlikely to disappoint, and the seafood pasta dishes are excellent. Q May - October 31 Open 12:00 - 23:00. November - April 30 Open 12:00 - 22:00. January Open by prior arrangement. (40 - 140kn). PAGB Tinel C-2, Trg pučkih kapetana 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 18 15. Up a short flight of steps opposite St Chrysogonus’s Church, Tinel has a broad menu of meat and seafood that covers most Adriatic culinary bases. The frogfish (grdobina) in white wine sauce or grilled sea bass (brancin) are particularly good. Q April 15 - October 15 Open 10:00 - 23:00. (60 120kn). PNGBX

Tomaseo E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+38522) 21 92 54. A decent and unpretentious place, at Tomaseo you can unwind and enjoy a good meal on the terrace while taking in the view of the Šibenik Channel. Mains and desserts are well-prepared and reasonably priced. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. June - September 30 Open 09:00 - 24:00. (65 - 120kn). PAB Uzorita K-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 58, tel. (+385-22) 21 36 60, tonisupe@yahoo.com, www.uzorita.com. Established in 1898, at Uzorita everything is still done the old-fashioned way. The wine and olive oil are home produced, and even the mussels are farmed by the proprietor. Along with tradition, this place chucks in a pile of earthy innovation and a whole lot of character: your fish soup may be cooked over an open fire, but if there’s a large party the mussels may be prepared in a cement mixer! Award-winning, legendary, and well worth the walk from the centre. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Tue. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. September 16 - June 14 Closed Tue. Closed January 15 - 31. (45 - 110kn). PAGB Zlatna ribica Krapanjskih spužvara 46, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 03 00, tudic@si.t-com.hr, www. zlatna-ribica.hr. Long considered one of the best seafood restaurants in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted indoor trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing Šibenik In Your Pocket Sibenik 2.indd 22

terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj putting in an appearance just across the water. The finest fish (weighing in at around 400kn per kilo) will be grilled, baked or stewed according to your wishes. Otherwise you can opt for grilled tuna steaks or simple fillets of white fish from around 75kn each. With light jazzy music in the background, it’s the ideal place for a quality meal in relaxing, romantic surroundings. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed December 25 - January 2. (70 - 250kn). PALB

Italian Gastro Italiano Podsolarsko 78, Mandalina (next

to Solaris Hotels Resort), tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94, ante.petricevic@si.t-com.hr. Si signor! Sizzling wood oven gourmet pizzas and other Italian specialties as well as traditional Croatian delicacies dominate the menu; that can all be trickled down with a fine choice of wines. Located close to the Hotel Solaris Resort. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. (45 - 110kn). B

Lamb Marin Kapela bb, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 46 60 70. Standing beside a major junction on the main Zadar-Šibenik road (it’s right opposite the turn-off to Murter island), Marin is one of the most popular mid-journey stop-offs in this stretch of Dalmatia. Most people come here to sample the spit-roast lamb - a specimen can usually be seen slowly revolving above a log fire outside in the car park. The lamb is priced by weight and served in a mixture of chunks (expect to get a selection of both lean and fatty cuts), usually with a garnish of spring onion. The menu covers most other things in the Adriatic repertoire too, with fish and squid figuring strongly. Q April September 30 Open 09:00 - 23:00. October - March 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. (45 - 100kn). AGBX Torcida Donje polje 42, Donje polje, tel. (+385-22) 56 57 48, info@restoran-torcida.hr, www.restoran-torcida. hr. This Šibenik institution is on the Split road that leads through Boraje. You can choose succulent lamb peka style, or a crispier version roast on a spit, but don’t miss the home made bread or excellent soups. Bring your Hajduk Split shirt and you might just qualify for a discount! QOpen 08:00 23:00. (60 - 100kn). PALGBW

Pizza Stari Grad D-2, Dobrić 1, tel. (+385-) 091 765 91 29. For a tasty meal that won’t break the bank right in the heart of Šibenik, head right along to this simple little spot. As well as decent pizzas, they serve up a range of meat and fish dishes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (35 - 90kn). BX

Pelegrini

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RESTAURANTS

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Caught by the In Your Pocket Team

Islands Aldura Sunčana obala bb, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 28/(+385-) 091 505 59 94. Facing the ferry jetty, Aldura is the obvious last port of call for coffee when you are waiting for the Šibenik-Vodice boat to come steaming round the headland. It is also a fine restaurant, serving up seafood pastas, grilled chops and fresh fish in an atmospheric old building that preserves plenty of its original stone and timber. Q May - October 30 Open 12:00 - 23:00. November - April 30 Caffe bar Open 08:00 - 22:00 Restaurant Open by prior arrangement. (45 - 140kn). NB Dalmata Obala I 68, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 095 906 14 07. This is a traditional island tavern with a menu covering a customary selection of simple grilled-meat dishes alongside a broader range of seafood. Main courses range from inexpensive options like breaded hake fillet (pohani oslić) to finger-licking, push-the-boat-out delicacies like scampi and lobster. Choose between the small and cosy interior with large, curiously-shaped seashells hanging from the timber-beamed ceiling, or wooden-bench seating a canopied terrace overlooking the sea shore. Q April - September 30 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn). NGBX Fešta Uvala Golubovac, Otok Žut - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 098 42 52 29/(+385-) 099 347 35 19, (+385-22) 64 31 90, restoran-festa@zut.hr, www.zut.hr. In the ACI marina on the island of Žut, this restaurant run by the Mudronja family mixes the standard repertoire of main-course fish and lobster with innovative starters such as conger-eel pate and various fish carpaccios. Home-baked bread and a well-stocked wine cellar provide two more incentives to visit. The restaurant also has a small shop selling groceries and other supplies to yachtsfolk. Q March 15 - November 11 Open 08:00 - 23:00. (100 - 700kn). AGBX sibenik.inyourpocket.com Sibenik 2.indd 23

Four lions Zlarinska obala 15, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 21, four.lions@hi.t-com.hr, www.4lionszlarin.com. Attached to Zlarin’s only hotel is this big dining area spread beneath a canopy with a fishing boat hanging from the ceiling. Expect a respectable menu of meat and fish, with plenty that’s freshly-caught it functions as a café too, with chairs and tables right by the waterside. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (40 - 90kn). NGBX Kapelica Obala 45, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00 93. Traditional food in an old green-shuttered house in an alleyway just off the shore, to the left of the ferry landing. The interior features lots of homely red brick, and an open hearth for grilling and baking traditional fish dishes. The big list of desserts includes a lot more than the usual pancake fare. Q June - October Open 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). NGBX

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RESTAURANTS

Opat Luke 47, Uvala Opat - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 473

25 50, www.opat-kornati.com. Located in a stone house above the shore in Kornat island’s Opat bay, this is another well-known port of call among the yachting fraternity, and you might have to call early in the day if you want to reserve a table for the evening. Expect the best in traditional Adriatic fare seafood, with shellfish, risottos featuring whatever seafood has been caught that day, and baked-fish mains. Q April 20 - October 15 Open 12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 250kn). NGBX Žut ACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55, romano.milutin@gmail.com, www.restoran-zut.com.hr. Also in Žut’s ACI marina, Žut offers outdoor seating under a canopy bordered by shrubs and cacti. Oven-baked fish, octopus baked under a peka, or grilled Kornati lamb alongside the usual fish and lobster are among the specialities. Q April - October 31 Open 08:00 23:00. (80 - 110kn). AGB

Out of Town Antonijo Obala kneza Domagoja bb, Rogoznica, tel.

(+385-22) 55 94 11/(+385-) 091 209 63 54, restoran_ antonijo@net.hr. Sheltered by a clutch of palm trees at the end of Rogoznica’s riva, Antonio offers the whole gamut of Adriatic seafood from squelchy squid risottos to succulent lobster, with plenty of griddle-cooked fillets of fish inbetween. Dalmatinska pržolica (pork chop with garlic) serves as a substantial meaty alternative. The stone-clad interior is small and intimate, although chances are you’ll end up on the outdoor terrace admiring views of the Frapa yachting marina across the water. Q March - October 31 Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 200kn). PAGB Boba Butina 20, Murter. Boba’s large contemporarystyle dining room still has a homely feel, with cookery books crammed into a shelf in the corner and an open hearth on which food is prepared - delivering a blast of deliciously charcoal-scented grill-smoke to your nostrils as you await the fish or steak that you ordered earlier. There are good risotto and pasta choices too, and slow-baked lamb or octopus if you order it a few hours in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed January 15 - February 15. (65 - 130kn). PAGBW Bonaca Rokovača 5, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 14 44, bonacaskradin@net.hr. Skradin’s emergence as one of Dalmatia’s leading gastronomic destinations owes a great deal to Bonaca, which has a reputation for nurturing local culinary traditions and only using the freshest ingredients - the owner is himself a keen fisherman. Classic seafood pasta dishes kick off a menu that also includes regional favourites such as shellfish, grilled eel and local lamb. A warmly atmospheric interior features exposed stone and brick with nautically-themed pictures on the walls, and there’s an outdoor terrace looking down towards Skradin marina. Q April - October 31 Open 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 130kn). JAGBX

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Broščica Put Broščice 12, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 81 11. A traditional Dalmatian tavern with bare-stone interior, wooden benches and checked tablecloths, and a covered conservatory-style frontage looking out towards the waterfront. The menu ranges from inexpensive pizzas to fresh fish and steaks, with cheap 3-course deals and daily specials offering excellent value for money. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. December - February Open 14:00 - 23:00. (28 - 110kn). PAGB Brzilovi Put Brošćice 7, Tisno. For fast food Dalmatian style, this little place on Murter really can’t be beaten. Open in July and August only, fried small fish, squid and chips are served from a little stand shaped like a rowing boat. Great for a light evening meal, prices range from 15kn for fried fish to 35kn for squid with chips. Q July, August Open 18:00 23:00. (15 - 35kn). By Gušte Mirka Zore bb, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 201 75 93. In a stretch of coast full of outstanding grills, this is one of the best, cooking up steaks in an open kitchen with wooden tables spread out across the paving stones. A cult restaurant with a solid following - reservations are essential in season. Q April - November 15 Open 18:00 - 24:00. (80 - 160kn). PGBX Cantinetta Aleja skradinskih svilara 7, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 091 150 64 34, cantinetta.skradin@gmail. com, www.cantinetta-skradin.com. This family restaurant set in a walled courtyard has earned an enviable culinary reputation on the back of locally-influenced dishes such as rabbit stew and roast lamb. The fish and shellfish are also top class. Cantinetta is so devoted about the authenticity of its notoriously slow-cooked skradinski rižot (risotto with veal) that you are advised to order it at least a day in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed January 1 - 20. (50 - 150kn). PAGBX Čigrađa Uvala Čigrađa, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 46 19 87, cigrada@gmail.com. With a terrace running along the side of cicada-serenaded Čigrađa bay, this is probably the most romantically-situated of Murter’s restaurants. The food is first class too, with squid, shellfish and fish dishes prepared to a high standard and backed up by potent local wines. Q May - October Open 11:00 - 23:00. (40 - 130kn). ABX Fabro Žabićeva bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 45 61, damir.mudronja@si.t-com.hr. With tables and chairs set out along one of Murter’s many small-boat piers, Fabro is the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of maritime scenery. It can be quite hot and sunny here well into early evening although as night falls it is a wonderfully romantic place to dine. If you are traveling out of season the small and intimate dining room, decked out in nautical souvenirs, is a relaxing place

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RESTAURANTS to spend an evening. Fresh fish either grilled or baked is the star of the show, although the shellfish and steaks are also excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed January. (70 150kn). PAGBX Fast food Griz Artina bb, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 15 23. Perfect for on your feet eating. Choose a sandwich (ham-and-cheese, pršut, kulen or something fishy) and they will toast it and slap in a few salady things. Right in the centre of town by the bus station. Q June 15 - August 31 Open 00:00 - 24:00. September - June 14 Open 06:00 - 23:00. (15 - 30kn). NB Gina Put Jazine 9, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 85 80, gina@ gina.hr, www.gina.hr. Offering restful outdoor eating in a tree-shaded garden mere steps away from the water, Gina is the perfect place to enjoy an evening meal while watching the sun set over Murter’s humpy profile. Fresh seafood is the main attraction although pizzas and grill-steaks serve to fill out the menu. There is a good choice of domestic wines and spirits. Q Open May - October Open 08:00 - 23:00. (55 - 150kn). PNGBX Kamenar Rudina biskupa J. Arnerića 5, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 08 89, info@restaurant-kamenar.com, www.restaurant-kamenar.com. An old stone house with a smart modern interior, Kamenar offers a tasteful combination of traditional home cooking and fine contemporary dining. A range of imaginative seafood pastas and risottos will suit the light-lunchers, while steak, lobster and fresh white fish (either grilled whole or served in the form of pan-fried fillets) provide ample excuse to linger over a substantial and stylish dinner. Local Babić wine goes well with the red meats, while dry white Pošip from Korčula is the ideal accompaniment to the finest fish. Q March - November Open 11:30 - 24:00. (40 - 190kn). PAGBX Kezo Butina 1, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 965 89 56. An unassuming doorway leads to a surprisingly large and homely space, with a pair of huge wooden tables at groundfloor level and an expansive seating area upstairs under the rafters. Kezo’s substantial and inexpensive pizzas are the most popular items on the menu, although there is plenty in the seafood and steak departments to keep more ambitious diners happy. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PAGB Kod Baje Mate Grubišića 14, Drniš, tel. (+385-22) 88 79 40. This unpretentious and inexpensive lunching spot serves up many traditional staples that have disappeared from more touristy restaurants elsewhere, with heart, liver and brains featuring strongly on a menu that also takes in (thank goodness) less queasy dishes such as meaty grills, stews and sausages. Most importantly, Bajo serves up local delicacies such as Drniš pršut (melt-in-the-mouth homecured ham) and sir iz mišine (sheep’s cheese matured in a bag made from intestines) - a combined platter of the two is Drniš’s version of gastronomic heaven. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. (30 - 50kn). PNG Makina Ive Juričev Cote 20, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 00 15, makina-vodice@si.t-com.hr, www.makinavodice.com. Riva-front restaurant decked out in the style of a traditional Konoba or tavern and offering a broad range of traditional Dalmatian fare, from seafood baked under a pekastyle metal lid to grilled fish, grilled meats and fishy-flavoured pastas. The adjoining Makina Exit Night Club is a popular spot for kicking off an evening, with DJs and occasional live music acts generating a party atmosphere. Q April - October 31 Open 12:00 - 24:00. (25 - 150kn). PJAGBX

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Wine Tasting Krešimir IV Caffe & Wine Bar E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1. One of the busiest outdoor drinking spots in Šibenik is the patio-style first-floor terrace of Krešimir IV, a superbly situated venue built into the ancillary buildings of the Franciscan Monastery and boasting palm top views of the Riva. Inside is a smart and stylish café-bar with an inner wine-tasting room with original medieval barrel roof and reconstructed stone arches. The wine list includes some of Šibenik county’s finest tipples, alongside some quality international imports. Q May 15 - October 15 Open 07:30 - 01:00. October 16 - May 14 Open 07:30 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. GBX Vino&Ino C-1, Fausta Vrančića bb, tel. (+385-) 091 312 02 17, nikola@vinoiino.hr, www.vinoiino. hr. A wine bar that houses over 60 wines from all parts of Croatia and is loyal to wines from the Šibenik area in particular. What gives it that extra edge is that everything inside is Croatian made, therefore the owners also promote and sell products by several young Croatian artists (jewellery, clothes, sun glasses etc). The scent of coffee also prevails as the store promotes Croatian coffee, coffee cups and teaspoons. Opening June 22. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00 Vinoplod. The wine-making cooperative responsible for bottling many of the region’s best-known wines, including the ruby-red Babić, has several locations in which individuals and groups can buy the Vinoplod product. One of them occupies the ground floor of a stone house diagonally opposite Šibenik Cathedral (St James Souvenir Shop, C-3, Republike Hrvatske 2, tel. 022 21 37 77, Open 08:00 - 22:00). The Krešimir IV café and wine bar also has a cosy corner reserved for Vinoplod wine-tasting sessions.

Mediteran Put briga 13, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098

44 59 45, u.o.mediteran@si.t-com.hr, www.mediteranprimosten.hr. A walled courtyard with an open kitchen, Mediteran is the ideal spot for a relaxing evening, with grilled fish or steak the main culinary crowd-pleasers. It’s also an intimate spot for a drink, with high stools set up on the side of the dining area for those who just want a glass of the house wine - Babić from the family’s own vineyard. Q April 15 October 15 Open 13:00 - 24:00. (80 - 130kn). AGBX Nono Trg domovinskog rata 5, Pirovac. Occupying a back yard that has been roofed over to create a high-ceilinged dining space, Nono supplies good-quality seafood in an environment that is quirkily rustic but not overburdened with

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RESTAURANTS

kitsch. Sit on delightfully rickety wooden chairs, admire the farmstead bric-a-brac hanging on the walls and tuck in to marinated anchovies, grilled white fish or - if ordered several hours in advance - octopus baked the traditional way, under a charcoal-covered lid. It’s a family-run place and the wine and prošek come from their own vineyard. Q June 20 - August 31 Open 10:00 - 24:00. September - June 19 Open 11:00 23:00. (30 - 150kn). AGBX Pini Dr. Franje Tuđmana 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 26 64 95, pini@pini.hr, www.pini.hr. Good home cooking in an interior that blends traditional bare stone with modern minimalist design touches, or in the walled garden with its open kitchen. There is a good selection of grilled meats and fish, with locally caught local mullet or peka-baked squid the stand-out dishes. Q May - October 31 Open 13:00 23:00. November - April 30 Open on request. (45 - 120kn). PAGBX Popaj Dr. Franje Tuđmana 24, Primošten. Sandwiches, burgers and ćevapi sold from a kiosk right next door to the Popaj café-bar. It can get mobbed on summer evenings, although the queue of hungry holidaymakers is a prime spot for flirting. Q June - October Open 10:00 - 01:00. (10 - 30kn). NBS Santa Maria Kamila Pamukovića 9, Vodice, tel. (+38522) 44 33 19/(+385-) 098 21 98 69, santamariavodice@ yahoo.com, www.santamaria-vodice.com. Tortillas, tacos and burritos alongside pastas and steaks, please everyone. Engaging bits of bric-a-brac fill the dining room, with old cash tills, model boats, domestic implements and a confusion of paintings and photographs. Q July - August 31 Open 12:00 - 24:00. September - June 30 Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. Closed January. (70 - 140kn). PAGBX Šimun Ulica ribara 6, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 523 60 04. This is an evocatively traditional-style tavern right by the bridge into the Old Town, decorated with nautical ropes, fishing nets, and the odd wooden cart for good measure. Seafood pasta, fresh fish, scampi and lobster are among the principal culinary draws. Q April - October Open 12:00 24:00. (100 - 200kn). GBX Spalato Obala Vladimira Nazora 14, Vodice, tel. (+38522) 44 14 14/(+385-) 099 405 32 71, 091 221 46 37, spalatogo@gmail.com. A bright and welcoming Riva-

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side restaurant diagonally opposite the ferry jetty, with a serviceable range of pizzas, fishes, steaks, and home-style lunchtime favourites such as pašticada (stewed steak in prune sauce). Q June - August 31 Open 08:00 - 24:00. September - May 31 Open 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PAGB Tic Tac Hrokešina 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 52 30/ (+385-) 098 86 46 19, info@tictac-murter.com, www. tictac-murter.com. The closest that Murter comes to a cult restaurant, Tic Tac was one of the early innovators in the Adriatic gastro scene, adding a modern European culinary twist to Croatia’s traditional seafood repertoire. Fish, shellfish and lobster are the main attractions on an extensive menu, although Tic Tac also produces some awesome steaks. With outdoor seating in a narrow passageway and on the nearby seafront it’s an atmospheric place for evening dining, although it can be difficult to find a table in season. Q April - October 31 Open 12:00 - 23:00. November - March 31 Open 15:00 22:00. Closed Tue. (100 - 200kn). PAGBX Torkul Crnica 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 33 75 15. Located at the mainland end of the causeway, Torkul offers a familiar mixture of wooden benches and stone walls hung with an enjoyable jumble of bric-a-brac (including among other things nautical photographs, a life belt, and a tuba). Grilled fish, squid and skampi are among the highlights, although dishes baked under a peka (notably octopus with potatoes) are well worth trying if you have the time to call in and order it in advance. Q May - September 30 Open 09:00 - 24:00. (70 - 120kn). AGBX Tunga Re Turčinova 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 50 28/ (+385-) 098 929 79 43. Summer-only restaurant set back from the seafront in a small stone house - you may well have to wait before being seated. Most people come here for the tasty pizzas, although there is plenty of choice on a menu that also takes in pasta dishes, salads and fried squid. Q April - October Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). NGBX Tvrđava Tvrđava bb, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 66 31 55/ (+385-) 091 465 48 97. Knin’s sole charming restaurant is right at the entrance to the town’s one main sight, lodged in the former gatehouse of Knin fortress. Grilled meats, pork chops and roast lamb are served up in a characterful twofloor building, with an appealingly grassy outdoor terrace offering some stunning views. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (25 - 90kn). AB

Pelegrini

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Quick Eats

Vidrovača Vidrovača bb, Bilice-Skradin, tel. (+385-)

098 75 72 81, vidrovaca@gmail.com, www.vidrovaca. com. Located in a cove south of Skradin and almost underneath the bridge of the Zagreb-Split motorway, the dramatically-situated Vidrovača is well-nigh inaccessible unless you have a boat. Luckily it has its own private jetty beside a small pebble beach, and is very popular with passing yachtsfolk as a result. Principal culinary attractions include shellfish, scampi and squid. Local meats (including kid goat) baked under a peka are also on the menu, although they should be ordered a few hours in advance. Q May - October Open 12:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300kn). NGB Vratija se Šime Luke 57, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 85 87 83. A few steps away from Hramina beach, this large walled garden with seating underneath a timber canopy is a pleasant place to end up after a taxing day spent working on the sun tan. Pizzas from a log-fired oven form the backbone of the menu, although Šime also offers the standard repertoire of traditional grilled meats and seafood dishes, with baked squid being the standout. Q April 15 - October 15 Open 15:00 - 24:00. July - August 25 Open 12:00 - 24:00. (35 110kn). INGB Zameo ih vjetar Hrvatskih vladara 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 44 75, zameoihvjetar@hotmail.com. Announcing itself as a “marisqueria” (a Spanish term meaning seafood bar) in big letters above the entrance, “Gone with the Wind” is a moderately upmarket establishment serving up fresh shellfish and crustaceans in smart, uncluttered surroundings. You can inspect the fare in tanks and trays before you actually order. The large and leafy walled garden at the back is an evocative spot in which to linger over a meal. Q April - November Open 15:00 - 23:00. (30 - 150kn). AGB Zlatka Grgura Ninskog 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 905 39 09. If Skradin’s culinary traditions leave you cold (or simply out of pocket) you can always opt for Zlatka’s trusty and inexpensive range of substantial salads and pizzas (including at least one vegetarian option), served up in a neat and bright dining room or on a terrace fringed by fragrant rosemary bushes. The family-recipe pašticada (Dalmatian stewed beef with prunes) is also well worth trying. Q May October 31 Open 09:00 - 24:00. November - April 30 Open 15:00 - 24:00. (35 - 85kn). PNGBX Zlatne školjke Grgura Ninskog 9, Skradin, tel. (+38522) 771 022, zlatneskoljke@inet.hr, w w w.zlatneskoljke.com. A cosy restaurant set back slightly from the seafront, the Golden Seashell shelters in a timber-beamed dining room decked out with pictures of local beauty spots. A high-quality menu brims with seafood pasta, fresh fish and shellfish, alongside traditional local dishes such as the slow-cooked, veal-based skradinski risotto. Be sure to leave room for the owner’s own-recipe skradinska torta. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed December. (80 - 200kn). PAGB

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Buffet Penkala M-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 69. With functional surroundings enlivened by a huge fountain pen stuck to the back wall (a reference to Slavoljub Penkala, the Zagreb-based inventor of the fountain pen), this low-budget eatery offers an authentic taste of home-style cooking. Lunchtime staples like tripice (tripe), fažol (bean stew) and jota (thick barley soup) serve to satisfy the hungry stomach for minimal financial outlay. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 50kn). G Buffet Šimun M-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 17, tel. (+385-22) 21 26 74. Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly orange eatery near the train station, with hearty soups like bob (beans) augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid, pašticada (beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian lunchtime standards. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 57kn). NG Marenda D-1, Nove crkve 9, tel. (+385-22) 33 60 77/(+385-) 091 893 60 30. A tiny room selling fishy snacks of the anchovy, pilchard and mackerel variety, with the odd bit of squid or hake thrown in for good measure. There is a small table inside and a wooden bench on the alley outside. Locals frequently call in for a glass or two of red wine served from the barrel. And don’t be surprised if they suddenly start singing. Q May - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. September - April 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 35kn). JNGB McDonald’s P-4, Dalmare centar, Velimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 20, sibenik@hr.mcd.com, www.mcdonalds.hr. Philistines of the world unite! There are moments when we just can’t live without those golden arches. Dip your nuggets here at the Dalmare shopping centre. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (7 35kn). AGBX No 4 D-2, Trg Dinka Zavorovića 4, tel. (+385-22) 21 75 17. “The Foursome” is an engagingly offbeat and intimate eatery housed in a cube-like stone building with a café on one floor and a four-table restaurant above. Food ranges from pasta to steaks, while low-key lighting, houseplants and an unobtrusive indie-rock soundtrack create a laid-back vibe that’s rather different to central Šibenik’s other feeding stations. In summer tables are set out in a tiny square with the Renaissance Church of the Holy Spirit as a backdrop. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 12:00 - 24:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 110kn). PJNBX Šešula A-3, Obala prvoboraca 14. Sandwich, burger and fry-up bar on the seafront keeping Šibenik’s nocturnal revelers happy with late-night take-away munchies. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (10 45kn). B

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GO GOURMET Maraština Maraština is an old Dalmatian wine sort which can be found along most parts of the Croatian coast and is common on the Dalmatian mainland. It is a late bloomer so sunshine and warmth are the key ingredients for its growth. It has a yellow or golden/yellow colour, with a discreet and pleasant aroma. At the 6th Wine Festival recently held in Skradin, Maraština took out all the major awards in the white wine category. Winemakers Dragutin Dobrović from Pirovac and Ivica Džapo from Oklaj received awards for the best white bottled and corked wines.

In a country renowned for its diversity of culinary culture, the Šibenik region offers a wealth of gastronomic attractions. As well as the best of Adriatic cuisine, there is a profusion of distinctive local delicacies too. Fish and shellfish The waters of the Adriatic are packed with all manner of fish. Fine white fish such as John Dory (kovač), Sea Bass (brancin) or Sea Bream (orada) is usually grilled and served whole (complete with head, tail, skin and bones) - using knives, forks, fingers and teeth to prize away all of the white meat is an essential part of the experience. Fish on restaurant menus is usually priced by the kilogramme - a fish that weighs about 300g-400g is usually sufficient for one person. Many restaurants do however serve individually-priced fish fillets, aware that foreign visitors often find the whole fish-ordering process a bit confusing. The standard accompaniment for fish is mangold (blitva), a green vegetable full of healthy minerals. Cheaper varieties of fish such as anchovies (srdele or inćuni) are often marinated in oil and serve as excellent snacks or as an accompaniment to a round of drinks. Squid (lignje) is one of the most popular items on local restaurant menus, served grilled or fried in breadcrumbs. The Šibenik-Skradin area in particular is famous for its shellfish, and if you are crossing the bridge over the river Krka you will see bobbing floats on the surface of the water marking the oyster beds. Due to the Krka’s clear waters the local mullet (cipalj) has a more delicate taste than elsewhere in the Adriatic and is a common feature of restaurant menus as a result. Moving only slightly upstream, the Krka is also famous for its freshwater trout. Another real delicacy of the Skradin-Krka area is the eel (jegulja, known locally as bižot), which is lighter in texture and taste than the more fatty eels found in the Neretva delta further south.

Roast meats The maquis-covered hinterland of central Dalmatia provides ideal grazing land for sheep, which can be seen nibbling away on grasses and herbs on the plateau between Šibenik and Knin. Roast lamb on a spit is a popular local dish, and roadside restaurants on the main out-of-town routes frequently entice travellers to pull over by roasting a whole animal in the yard outside. Roast lamb is served by weight with on-the-bone cuts frequently included in each portion - so don’t be too shy to use your hands. Lamb is usually served with several shoots of spring onion. The other traditional way of preparing local lamb and veal is under a bell-shaped metal lid known as a peka. The method requires a big open hearth, with a log fire to generate the heat. Meat and potatoes are placed in a fire-side pot and covered with the peka lid, which is then covered in hot ashes. The ashes are periodically renewed as the first lot start to cool. The whole process takes about two hours, and results in a wonderfully tender and succulent meal. Skradin specialities Veal is also a basic ingredient in Skradinski rižot (Skradin risotto), with the meat cooked slowly for twelve hours (or two days according to some purists) and the rice being added only at the end. Traditionally this is a ritual dish, cooked by the men of the town on the eve of a major feast day. Nowadays you will find it on restaurant menus in Skradin - although you should stick to the best Skradin restaurants if you want to eat a version of Skradinski rižot that has been authentically slow-cooked. Skradin is also famous for the Skradinska torta, a cake that looks like a traditional sponge cake but has a totally different kind of succulence, largely due to the fact that it is made without any flour - the cake’s texture comes instead from the ground almonds and walnuts that form its prime ingredients. Flavoured with orange peel, honey and rose-petal brandy, it’s a mouth-wateringly delicious culinary discovery for those who haven’t had the good fortune to visit Skradin before. You’ll find it on the dessert menus of most of the town’s restaurants. Sheep’s-milk cheese Typical of the Drniš area is sir iz mišine, a sheep’s-milk cheese that is matured while hanging in a tube of sheeps’ gut. The smooth-textured cheese has a distinctive aroma and taste, and should definitely be sampled if you see it advertised on the menus of local restaurants. Olive oil The whole of Šibenik county is covered in olive plantations. Olive groves that were allowed to run wild in the latter half of the 20th century have been returned to cultivation, and new saplings can be seen sprouting from stony slopes all around the region. Murter is a major centre of olive oil production, although most production is on a small family-farm level and it is difficult to find locally-bottled oil in shops. Many of the locals sell their oil on souvenir stalls in the centre of Murter town in the summer months.

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Šibensko - Kaprijska popara is traditional delicacy round here

The Zlatna Ribica restaurant in Brodarica produces oil which is hot-pressed rather than cold-pressed (so it doesn’t qualify for the ‘extra virgin’ label) but it does have a smoother taste and texture as a result, and is very good for general kitchen use. It is sold at their own oil press (uljara) on the island of Krapanj. Wine and spirits Šibenik county is a major wine producing region, with vineyards spread out across the hills all along the coast. The most common local wine is the outstanding red Babić, although imported vine strains such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon also flourish here. The best Babić comes from Primošten, although good-quality Babić is also cultivated along the whole of Šibenik county’s coast. Biggest local winery is the Šibenik-based cooperative Vinoplod, which produces top-quality Babić alongside mid-price wines like Plavina (red) and Debit (white), and inexpensive table wines. Based near Skradin, the Bibich winery produces excellent mid-price autochthonous wines such as red Plavina, dry white

Debit, as well as innovative barrel-aged blended wines, and international strains such as the quality red Sangreal Shiraz. Spirits specific to the Skradin area include rakija od ruža (rose-petal rakija) and liker od žižula (liqueur flavoured with berries from the jujube tree).

Gastro events 05.08 Sunday

Brganj Day Betina. Partake in this ancient old custom where an in season special sea mussel is picked at this time of year with a special tool called a brganj. Locals and tourists gather to enjoy freshly prepared mussels and homemade wine during the evening which is filled with song and cheer in a summer atmosphere.

25.08 Saturday

The Dinner of Home Cooking Pirovac. Grandma’s traditional recipes are back in the spotlight with many samples of county foods across Croatia on show. See recipes being prepared, sample different food and visit the Pirovac market of curing herbs and plants which are used as spices in cooking.

09.09 Sunday

Festival of šaše and pulente Obala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice. Try a Dalmatian specialty which is prepared and cooked along the Vodice Riva according to traditional recipes. Šaša is a tasty salsa type sauce served on palenta - grounded cornmeal boiled in water; add to that some local spices and this was the favourite of all meals amongst farmers in the good old days.

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CAFÉS Dolac Obala palih omladinaca 10. All-purpose café-bar that is fairly typical of the places along the Riva, Dolac offers convivial atmosphere and an across-the-spectrum range of pop and rock background music. Lean on the granite-like L-shaped bar in the front room or join the pool and darts players in the back. Q May - September 30 Open 08:00 01:00. October - April 30 Open 08:00 - 23:00. BX Giro espresso D-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 66, giroespresso@gmail.com. One of central Šibenik’s best options for quality coffee is also one of the most niftily decorated, decked out in a contrasting palette of slate greys and rich reds - including some fetchingly scarlet plastic-bucket seats. It’s one of the most popular places in town for a midday caffeine-fuelled chinwag. Free wifi brings in a laptop-toting crowd. Q June - August 31 Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. September - May 31 Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PGBXW Gradska vijećnica C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 36 05, ivo.mocic@si.t-com.hr. With outdoor seating underneath the arches of Šibenik’s Renaissance town hall, this is the place where locals and visitors alike love to sit and absorb goings-on in the main square, with the city’s cathedral providing a grandiose backdrop. Inside, salmon-pink décor and bronze-painted ceilings convey an aura of olde-worlde style. Tea is served old-school-style in a pot, and it’s always worth trying out the cake of the day. Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 01:00. October - May 31 Open 09:00 - 23:00. JGBX Kazališna kavana D-1, Kralja Zvonimira 1. Round the side of the municipal theatre and with photographs of past performances covering the walls, the Theatre Café is a pleasant and relaxing place in which to linger over a coffee. With inlaid bench seating and soft puffy cushions, it is chic in an unobtrusive way. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PJBXW Moderato Cantabile F-1, Stjepana Radića 1. Named after one of the best-known songs by the Šibenik-born melody-master Arsen Dedić (see p.13), this roomy café is something of a classic in its own right, with a big outdoor terrace and a range of stylish but comfortable spaces within. After recently receiving a face lift, the elegant interior fits perfectly with the concept of recharging batteries over a brew. The landscaped terrace is spacious and picturesque! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. PNGBXW Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt Sv. Lovre (The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence) C-2, Strme stube 1, tel.

(+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 35 32 46, www. spg.hr. If you value your daily coffee break as your personal moment of nirvana, there could be few better surroundings than these monastery gardens. A true oasis of tranquility,

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the gardens are filled with the scent of old-fashioned roses, and you can see capers in their natural habitat rather than floating miserably in a pickle jar. Q March 15 - November Open 09:00 - 24:00. JABX Trapula B-3, Obala palih omladinaca 12. Named after a trap used by local fisherfolk, Trapula is a pleasant café-bar on the Riva, with a glass-enclosed verandah-type construction tacked on to a smaller and cosier inner sanctum. Bottled beers include cult Croatian ale Velebitsko pivo, while the background music covers familiar international pop-rock territory. Q June 15 - August 15 Open 08:00 - 02:00. August 16 - June 14 Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 01:00. PBX

Out of town Leopold Rudina 1, Murter. Much favoured by the locals for

that all-important first coffee of the morning (not to mention any of the numerous coffee breaks taken subsequently throughout the day) Leopold’s corner-of-the-square position makes it the ideal spot to keep track of comings and goings during the day - and provides a front-row view of the nightlyparade of sun-bronzed holidaymakers that takes over the town in summer. With a strawberry-and-cream interior and chic elliptical tables, it offers serious competition to Murter’s other bars in the design stakes too. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PBX Mirage Vukovarska 2, Knin. A popular meeting place day and night, Knin’s premier café-bar is cheerful and chic in equal measure, with easy chairs the colour of orange peel arranged around circular black tables, and a floor-to-ceiling curving window looking out onto the main street below. If you can’t squeeze into a seat here then the similar Café Baltazar, in the same building, is a worthy alternative. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PBX Popaj Dr. Franje Tuđmana 24, Primošten. O f all Primošten’s cafés this is the one that comes nearest to your favourite friend’s living room, with a bright front space decorated with an odd but comfortable mixture of random furnishings. The garden patio with wicker chairs surrounded by lush Mediterranean plants is a real piece of paradise. The choice of background music (from Leonard Cohen to loungebar beats) is on the classy side too. Q June - September 30 Open 07:00 - 02:00. October - May 31 Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNBX Vodopija Trg Rudina 2/b, Murter. This main-square café serves reassuringly strong coffee and delightfully soft and springy krafne (doughnuts), which come either with marmalade filling or with chocolate icing. In summer they also have a substantial menu of ice cream, and a large outdoor terrace perfect for evening drinking. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JGB

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NIGHTLIFE Hangin’ Out Domino B-3, Obala prvoboraca 17. This functional water-

front rectangular space is rendered rather welcoming and homely by a combination of low-key lighting, garden-style wicker furnishings, and a pop-rock menu of background music that is loud enough to keep your feet tapping but not so deafening as to drown out an evening of good conversation. The clientele here is mildly older than that at the nearby Point (see below) but not so long in the tooth that they have lost their appetite for a good party. Q May - September 30 Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. October - April 30 Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PEBXW Godimento K-1, Bana J.Jelačića 3. This rather posh café is to be found alongside the tennis courts on Šubićeva ulica. In the mornings, you can pick up a croissant here, while later on the extensive range of cocktails and shooters make this a good place to warm up for an evening out. QOpen 07:30 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PNBX Pivnica Toni D-2, Zlarinski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 78 60. If munching tasty pizza and pasta dishes while listening to classic Rolling Stones tracks is your idea of a good start to the evening, then Pivnica Toni is probably the place for you. It has long been a favourite among the local music-fan fraternity: the walls are covered in Šibenik-related pop memorabilia, including photos of singer-songwriter Arsen Dedić, pianist Maksim Mrvica, pop balladeer Mate Mišo Kovač, and any number of lesser-known local acts that never quite made it onto the national stage. One wall is reserved for sporting heroes, with Šibenik-born basketball icon Dražen Petrović (see p.13) hogging the limelight. The outdoor terrace is a popular venue for laid-back beer-drinking on summer evenings. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 07:00 - 01:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. (15 - 40kn). NGBW Point bar B-3, Obala prvoboraca 10. Favoured gathering point of Šibenik’s young and slinky, the appropriately stylish Point boasts a cool-as-a-cucumber colour scheme comprising whites, slate greys and metallic blues. Oil paintings of dancing girls in pink dresses hint at an innocent kind of naughtiness. DJs put the sound system through its paces at weekends, while a trio of television screens embedded in the walls ensure that if there is a match on you won’t miss any of the action.

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DJs booked to spin discs at the Aurora down the coast in Primošten frequently appear here for a meet-and-greet on the night before or after. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. April - November Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PEBX Public Bar K-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 194 45 03. One of the newest café and lounge bars in Šibenik. Choose to chill indoors or out on the terrace, the drink selection meets all needs and décor is neat, modern and futuristic with a black and white colour selection. It is a place to be seen. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. GBXW Skipper A-3, Obala prvoboraca 12. Slightly cooler and less frantic than some of the youngster-frequented bars further east along the Riva, Skipper is a smartly decorated and warmly intimate bar, with a nice mixture of white and wine-red furnishings and a strange blue-neon glow coming from under the tables. There is a decent choice of beers in bottles, cocktails in the 35-45kn range, and a something-foreveryone mixture of RnB pop and adult rock on the sound system. Comfy chairs and benches are spread across the outdoor terrace. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00. PEBX

Out of town Admiral Uvala Soline bb, Marina Frapa, Rogoznica, www.marinafrapa.com. A circular space with chairs, private booths and high stools arranged around a central dance floor and performance area, this club offers a full and varied programme, with DJs spinning different musical styles on different nights of the week, live gigs, swanky fashion events, and racy cabaret shows that verge on what might be euphemistically termed ‘adult entertainment’. The open-air swimming pool directly above the club functions as a groovy outdoor lounge bar until midnight, providing the perfect place for a pre-club warm up. Q June 29 - September Open 23:00 - 04:00. PG

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NIGHTLIFE Aurora Kamenar 3, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 920 19

64, booking@auroraclub.hr, www.auroraclub.hr. Set on a blustery hillside to the east of town, this palatial-looking balustraded building is night-bar, pizzeria and club all rolled into one. Live gigs by Croatian pop stars, top DJs from abroad, and an atmospherically-lit back garden keep the hordes coming. Heading back down the hill at dawn is all part of the Primošten experience. Q June 22 - September 15 Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. July 13 - August 25 Open 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. ALGBXW Basadura Badnje 13, Tribunj. Wicker chairs, bamboo stools and an outdoor terrace shaded by tropical-island-style thatched parasols add an air of Pacific-Island exotica to this popular café bar on the Old Town’s island. With seating right by the shore, it’s the perfect location to sip cocktails as the sinking sun throws the local islands into silhouette. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. June - October Open 07:00 - 02:00. GBX Gušter Pašićina 24, Murter. The Lizard is a cool café-bar with chocolate-and-cream colour scheme and a sea-facing terrace furnished with wicker chairs and lounge-bar-style cushions. A popular cocktail-sipping destination in summer, it fills up with local youth out of season. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 07:00 02:00. PJNBXW Hacienda Magistrala bb, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 099 333 23 33, info@hacienda.hr, www.hacienda.hr. One of the most renowned clubs on the whole Adriatic coast, bringing in the big name European and American DJs and occupying the kind of out-of-town location on the Šibenik road that allows the management to pump the volume up without the neighbours complaining. From the outside it looks like the Tex-Mex border ranch where Clint Eastwood used to flash his poncho, although on the inside it’s more functional, with a big space full of bodies and several bars around the side. Q July 15 - August 20 Open 23:00 - 05:00. LBX Hookah bar Plaža ispod hotela Olympia, Vodice. Beach bar in front of the Olympia hotel with armchairs and couches set out on wooden decking beneath the pines, with the billowing curtains of its baldachins looking rather like a shoal of jellyfish. It’s the prime place for after-beach parties, with DJs and live musicians starting up in the late afternoon and never seeming to stop. It’s a popular place to see and be seen and the best tables are frequently grabbed by posing wannabes, but there is always some brazen hedonistic fun going on somewhere. Q June - September 15 Open 08:00 - 02:00. AXW Krešimir Majinova 5, Murter, tel. (+385-) 095 600 07 77. This small wedge-shaped space bathed in blue-ish light lies in an alleyway just off the square. With at least ten varieties of whisk(e)y behind the bar it’s a tempting last port of call for those who just can’t resist the idea of one for the road. Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 02:00. October - May 31 Open 08:00 - 24:00. PABX Lantana Uvala Čigrađa, Murter. Crouching above the corner of Čigrađa bay is this improvised building that looks a bit like a thatched hut, with wooden benches underneath a rush-matting canopy, and additional chairs and tables set higgledy-piggledy on sloping ground underneath pine trees. There is a wood-burning oven for baking pizzas, a simple menu of pršut sandwiches and seafood snacks (such as girice; fried whitebait), and frequent late-night DJ events and rock gigs during the summer. Q May 15 - October 15 Open 10:00 - 24:00. N Makina Exit Herfordska bb, Vodice, www.makinaexit. com. A well-patronized party-bar in central Vodice, offering different styles of music on different nights. House and techno regularly pull the punters in, although you might

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equally stumble into a Croatian pop evening when everyone is singing along blissfully to songs that you don’t understand.

Q June - September 30 Open 23:00 - 05:00. PNBX Nautica Dr. Franje Tuđmana 6 (Mala Raduča),

Primošten. This summer-only bar doesn’t consist of a great deal except a kiosk-like counter serving drinks and a tight group of bright-blue benches enabling bottom-to-bottom contact with your fellow drinkers. A display of painted wooden boats and toy fish are happy to keep you company. Situated just above a stretch of shingle beach, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy the rhythmic swoosh of seawater on pebbles. Q June September 15 Open 08:00 - 02:00. NBX Opium Herfordska bb, Vodice, www.opium-vodice.com. This cocktail bar and club in the centre of Vodice, right beside the ACI marina, aims for a mix of cutting-edge sounds and hedonistic summer fun, and gets its fair share of visiting DJs. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 22:00 - 05:00. September 16 - June 14 Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. BXW Reful Sabuni 11, Murter. An inviting purple and blue rectangle with a big pool table and classic-rock background music, Reful is a welcome antidote to the mainstream sonic wallpaper on offer elsewhere. There is a handful of outdoor tables on a raised terrace looking towards Hramina beach, and wifi internet is available for 10kn/hr. Live blues and rock bands perform at weekends throughout the year, when the alcove at the back of the bar serves as a tiny stage. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 07:00 - 02:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PEBXW Sirena Luke 3, Murter. Featuring the kind of fancy chandeliers and cur tain fabrics once favoured by the pre-revolutionary French court, and a sensuous orange glow coming from behind the bar, Sirena brings a dash of decadence to the Murter bar scene and is a magnet for hedonistically-inclined visitors as a result. Expect affordable cocktails, a crisp sound system, and thatched parasols on the terrace. Q April - October 31 Open 18:00 - 02:00. PNBX The Legend’s Pub Trg Don Ive Šarića 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 091 333 33 13, info@thelegendspub.com, www. thelegendspub.com. Occupying a roomy stone house just opposite Primošten’s causeway, Legends features the kind of solid wooden furniture and green-hued upholstery that makes a pub a pub - or at least in the mind of a European holidaymaker. The semi-circular balcony hovering above the bar area is quite a feature, while floor-to-ceiling photographs of famous Croatian sporting heroes provide plenty of topics for discussion. Expect DJ events and live music (jazz, blues, and pop-rock cover bands) throughout the year, with crowds spilling out onto the sea-facing terrace in summer. Q May - September Open 19:00 - 05:00. October - December 31 Open Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. PJEGBW Woodstock Lovački trg, Drniš. Drniš may never quite make it as rock and roll capital of the world but Café Woodstock certainly mounts an honourable bid at the title. The interior walls are covered with all manner of photos featuring Elvis, Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison and a fair selection of less mainstream musical names - this is quite possibly the only place in Šibenik County where you will ever see a framed Frank Zappa album cover hanging beside the door to the toilets. Semicircular booths with purple PVC seats make this a cool and comfy venue to spend an hour or two. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. BX

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WHAT TO SEE

Šibenik’s Old Town is a typical Mediterranean medieval city, with a warren of pedestrianized alleyways and piazzas overlooked by green-shuttered stone houses. Inaccessible to traffic, its narrow and frequently stepped streets are left to pedestrians, cats, and the occasional moped. Šibenik’s historical core is divided into three parts; the Grad (literally “Town”), which stretches from the Cathedral eastwards; Gorica, comprising the gently sloping streets that stretch uphill towards St Michael’s Fortress; and Dolac, the maze of hillside alleys to the west. The Old Town is entered from the large open square known as the Poljana, from where the street now known as Zagrebačka (sometimes called “Masna ulica” or “Greasy Street” due to the number of inns that used to line it) heads through Gorica towards the Fortress of St Michael, passing a quartet of historical churches on the way. Roughly parallel to Zagrebačka is the street popularly known as the Kalelarga (officially Kralja Tomislava), which slopes down towards the Cathedral.

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Quite apart from its status as a marvel of construction, the Cathedral is also a hugely entertaining as a gallery of lateMedieval and early-Renaissance sculpture. The north portal is framed by endearingly primitive statues of Adam and Eve (both portrayed covering their private parts in embarrassment) standing on pillars which rest on the backs of lions. They are thought to be the work of Bonino of Milan, a craftsman from Lombardy who was brought in to work on the cathedral at an early stage but who died before the reconstruction really got going. Much more refined in style are the sculptures and reliefs around the outside of the apse, where Juraj Dalmatinac provided a frieze of 71 stone heads - which appear to pop out of the wall just above human height. Thought to be modeled on Šibenik characters of Dalmatinac’s acquaintance, they are uniquely lifelike examples of Renaissance sculpture and have served as something of a trademark for the city of Šibenik ever since. Above the frieze, a pair of stone cherubs unfurl a scroll of parchment bearing the name of the artist, Juraj Dalmatinac. You’ll have to crane your neck upwards to catch sight of the statues grouped around the central cupola, all the work of Nikola Firentinac. A winged St Michael is portrayed spearing a dragon facing the main square, while St Mark faces the sea, and St James faces east. Standing at roof level at the western end of the cathedral is an Annunciation scene, also by Firentinac, featuring Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin. Inside, look out for a sarcophagus of Bishop Juraj Šižgorić with an effig y of the reclining bishop car ved by Juraj Dalmatinac. The Altar of the Holy Cross bears a late Gothic crucifixion carved by Juraj Petrović, fifteenth-century Canon of Split Cathedral. Dalmatinac’s greatest masterpiece is the baptistery (krstionica) in the cathedral’s corner, which features a beautifully carved ceiling, and plump cherubs cavorting around the base of the baptismal font. Mass: June - August 31 09:00 and 20:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 20:00. September - May 31 09:00 and 19:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. Q Open 09:30 - 19:30. Admission 5 - 15kn. City Museum (Gradski muzej) C-3, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, www.muzej-sibenik.hr. A narrow alley behind the apse of the cathedral leads to the 17thcentury Rector’s Palace, from where the representative of the Venetian Republic would watch over Šibenik’s affairs. It is now home to the City Museum. To the left of the main entrance is a niche containing a full-size statue of the lavishly-bearded 17th-century rector Niccolo Marcello. The lower storey of the Palace (entered from the Riva) contains an atmospheric hall that stages temporary art and history exhibitions - usually with a strong local flavour. Q Open only during visiting exhibitions, all other information is available at www.muzejsibenik.hr or on (+385-22) 21 38 80. Admission free.

Essential Šibenik Cathedral of St James (Katedrala Svetog Jakova)

C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. With its pale stone dome rising above the city like a gargantuan crocus bulb, Šibenik’s magnificent Cathedral exerts a dominating presence over the huddled buildings of the Old Town. In a sense the church here is as old as Šibenik itself, although it is the century-long campaign of rebuilding initiated in 1431 that produced the imposing edifice that can be seen today. Frequently halted by lack of funds, construction took place in installments, and the new-look cathedral wasn’t officially consecrated until 1555. However it brought together many of the Adriatic’s finest craftsmen, foremost among them being the visionary architect Juraj Dalmatinac, and his successor Nikola Firentinac. It was they who were responsible for the cathedral’s most innovative features, the barreled roof and massive cupola both built from interlocking stone slabs.

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WHAT TO SEE The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence (Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vr t sv. Lovre) C-2, Strme stube

1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 35 32 46, www.spg.hr. Laid out by landscape architect Dragutin Kiš and maintained by children from a local high school, the Mediterranean Garden has become one of Šibenik’s most popular attractions since opening its gates in 2007. Occupying an oblong terrace just above the belfry of St Lawrence’s church and surrounded by stone walls, the garden aims to provide an accurate impression of what a medieval monastery garden would have looked like, and is a marvellously soothing spot in which to enjoy a few moments of retreat. The collection of plants is laid out in neat geometric beds and reveals how monastery gardens such as these were highly practical affairs, cultivating the herbs and shrubs that were both useful in the kitchen and in medieval medicine. Fruit trees and roses help to provide additional colour. There is also a café with outdoor seating on a garden-side patio. If you have ambitious plans for a herb garden at home, this is the perfect place to come for horticultural inspiration. Q April - October 31Open 08:00 - 23:00. November - March 31 Open by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.

Churches Church of Our Lady outside the Walls (Gospa van grada) F-1, Fra Stjepana Zlatovića 14, tel. (+385-22)

Statue of Dražen Petrović

St Michael’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Mihovila)

B-1. One of the first things that visitors see when entering Šibenik by road is the silhouette of St Michael’s Fortress, which crowns the pyramidal hill above Šibenik’s Old Town. Its importance to the Croatian state is illustrated by the number of times that 11th-century Croatian kings brought their court here - Petar Krešimir IV in 1066, Zvonimir in 1078, and Stjepan II in 1080. It was during Krešimir’s visit that Šibenik was first mentioned in official documents, which explains why the city is sometimes known to this day as “Krešimir’s Town”. Although not much more than a bare shell nowadays, the fortress is open to the public and the views from the parapet are really quite splendid. It’s the ideal viewpoint from which to admire the unique stone-slab roof of Šibenik cathedral, with the terracotta tiles of Šibenik’s other buildings spreading out on either side. Oldest surviving parts of the fortress are the square towers on the eastern side. Running downhill from the fortress towards the seafront are a crenellated set of double walls built in the 15th century to provide access to the sea. Q June 16 - August 15 Open 09:00 - 21:00. August 16 - October 30 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.

Dražen Petrović To many he was Europe’s greatest basketball player! A memorial room where Petrović grew up has been set up and it is left completely intact, just how he had done so but it does tell his life story with exhibits and videos. It is located at 3 Peter Peradović Street! A salute to a legend! Q Tourist Information Centre, E-2, Obala Dr. Franje Tuđmana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11, May, June Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 14:00. October Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. November - April Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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21 25 77. Overlooking the Poljana is this stately 17th-century church with a soaring four-storey belfry. The interior features extravagant red, yellow and white stucco work and a modern relief of the Stations of the Cross. Mass: 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 19:00, in July and August 08:00 and 20:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 20:00. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. Church of St John (Crkva svetog Ivana) D-2, Put igrališta 21. This venerable 14th-century lump of stone is famous for the balustraded staircase on the street-facing side, said to be the work of prolific stonemason Nikola Firentinac. Sprouting from the upper part of the balustrade are a series of angels’ heads in relief form, while a severely eroded lion stands guard at the bottom. The church’s fourstorey belfry boasts the town’s oldest mechanical clock, made by Ottoman craftsmen and used in Drniš before being brought to Šibenik. Inside lies a trio of Baroque altars; the side altar to the left bears a jolly relief of trumpeting cherubs and skulls. The church is closed for visitors.

Church of the Ascension (Crk va Uspenie Bogorodice) D-1, Božidara Petranovića 5, tel. (+385-

22) 21 47 45. A church of medieval origins, this plain but alluring stone beauty began life as the Church of the Holy Saviour, and belonged to the Knights Templars then the Brotherhood of Flagellants before becoming the convent church of the Poor Clares in the 15th century. A fire in 1725 occasioned a major rebuild, when a few Baroque details were added. The convent was closed by Emperor Joseph II, and the church was handed over to the Orthodox congregation in 1808. It has been the centre of Šibenik County’s Orthodox community ever since. Darkened by the smoke of innumerable candles, the interior contains an iconostasis studded with images of the Virgin Mary, several of which have been enhanced by the addition of silver-plated halos or crowns. A colourful modern mural of Christ fills the apse. Incidentally, the church hosted one of the first ever theatre productions in Šibenik in 1615, when the Poor Clares performed a religious play on the subject of the Three Kings - the roles were all taken by nuns. Mass: April - October 31 Sat 18:00 and Sun 09:00. November - March 31 Sat 17:00 and Sun 09:00. Q Open by prior arrangement.

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WHAT TO SEE

Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva Svetog Duha)

D-1, Dinko Zavorović Square. Overlooking a small piazza, this dainty 17th-century affair is one of central Šibenik’s most attractive little churches, with arched roofline and a central rose window. Half way up the façade is a relief of a bird, symbolizing the spirit in the title. The church is closed for visitors.

St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva svetog Krševana)

C-2, Ulica don Krste Stošića 16, tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49. Šibenik’s oldest surviving church, a Romanesque structure devoted to an unpronounceable third-century Roman martyr, is currently used as a summer-only exhibition space by the Town Museum - the tourist office will have details of what’s on.

St Francis’ Church and monastery (Crkva svetog Frane) E-2, Trg Nikole Tommasea 1, tel. (+385-22) 20

14 80. Belonging to Šibenik’s main Franciscan Monastery, this church boasts Gothic origins but was given a full Baroque makeover, with leading 17th-century painter Matej Pončun providing a series of dramatically turbulent altar paintings. A doorway from the square just outside the church’s main entrance leads through to the monastery courtyard, where a row of stone buildings contain a range of displays dealing with church history, and examples of the monastery library’s rich collection of manuscripts and books. Mass: April October 31 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:30 and 19:00. November - March 31 08:00 and 18:00, Sun 08:00, 10:30, 18:00. Mass in English can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30. St Gregory’s Church (Crkva svetog Grgura) B-2, Ulica Jurja Dalmatinca. This cute Gothic church is tucked into one of Šibenik’s oldest streets, right opposite the house where architect Juraj Dalmatinac is thought to have lived. A seasonally-open display devoted to Dalmatinac’s life and work now occupies the interior of the church.

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St Lawrence’s Church (Crkva svetog Lovre)

C-2, Fra Andrije Kačića Miošića 11. Completed in the 18th century, the church belongs to a monastery founded by Franciscan friars from the island of Visovac (see p.62). The monaster y was an impor tant centre of learning, teaching philosophy and theology from 1669. One of its former teachers was Andrija Kaćič-Miošić (1704-1760), the Franciscan friar famous for penning Pleasant Conversation of the Slav People, one of the first popular histories of the Croatian nation. Just west of the monastery along Kačićeva and up some steps is the Lourdes Grotto, an artificial cave holding a statue of the Virgin Mary. It was built in imitation of the cave near Lourdes in France where the Virgin is said to have appeared to a local girl in 1858. Mass: June - August 31 19:00, Sun 08:30. September - October 31 18:00, Sun 09:00. November - March 31 17:00, Sun 09:00. April - May 31 18:00, Sun 09:00.Q Open by prior arrangement.

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WHAT TO SEE Curiosity

Nikola Firentinac Not a great deal is known about Nikola Firentinac (or “Niccolo of Florence”), except that he was probably born in Florence and certainly studied there, possibly as an apprentice to great Renaissance master Filippo Brunelleschi. He was invited to Šibenik to work on various parts of the Cathedral in the mid-1460s, and took over the whole project from Juraj Dalmatinac after the latter’s death in around 1475. It was under Firentinac that the cathedral’s famous roof was completed, and art historian remain divided as to whether Firentinac simly applied what he had learned from his predecessor or came up with innovative solutions of his own. Firentinac cemented his reputation as a great architect and sculptor with subsequent works: his Chapel of St John in Trogir Cathedral represents one of the high-points of Adriatic Renaissance art.

The Šibenik Rebus D-2, Dobrić. Dobrić is one of the narrow stepped streets that zig-zags its way down from the Kalelarga towards the Riva, passing a small piazza about half-way down. High up on the façade of one of the piazza’s houses is Šibenik’s most enigmatic sight, the Rebus or riddle. It basically consists of an oblong stone relief bearing five symbols - bird’s wings, crossed scythes, two wine flagons, a trio of gaming dice, and a human skull. The artisan who carved the Rebus was obviously delivering a mischievously morbid message, although opinion differs as to precisely what this is: a cautionary tale about the dangers of drinking and gaming seems to be part of the explanation. Whatever the Rebus is warning you about, it seems certain that you will be quite dead at the end of it.

Fortifications St John’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Ivana) L-2.

Built in 1646 at the time of the Candia War (when Venetancontrolled Dalmatia was engaged in a bitter struggle to ward off Ottoman encroachment) this is a typical example of 17th-century military architecture, its star-shaped plan providing any number of ideal angles for defensive artillery fire.Even today it is a stirring sight, its angular jutting bastions surrounded by outcrops of limestone and spindly evergreen trees. Getting here from the centre of town is fairly easy: from the main Kralja Zvonimira take Težačka then turn left into Zadarska Street, before turning right onto the steeply ascending Put V. Mandušića. Alternatively, drive as far as Šubićevac (see below) and take the footpath from there. Once you’re here, the access path to the fortress itself leads through a stepped gateway and out onto a grassy plateau, where there are remains of barrack blocks, powder stores, World-War-II gun positions and a modern radio mast. The views, taking in St Michael’s Fortress and the Šibenik Channel, are well worth the uphill walk. St Nicholas’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Nikole). Jutting out into the St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow neck of water that leads from the Šibenik Channel to the open sea, the smooth-pointed triangle of St Nicholas’s Fortress is one of the most elegant military buildings anywhere in the Adriatic. It was built by Venetian military engineer Gian Girolamo Sammicheli in the mid-16th century to protect Šibenik from Ottoman naval attacks. There are long-term plans to restore the fortress and turn it into a museum centre, although for the time being it remains something that can only be seen from the deck of a passing ship. The dreamy sensation of drifting past St Nicholas’s water-lapped bastions is certainly well worth the price of a ticket on the Šibenik-Vodice ferry.

The New Church (Nova crkva) C-1, Ulica Nove Crkve.

Designed by Nikola Firentinac in 1502, the New Church is socalled because it was one of the last to be built within the town walls. It was commissioned by one of Šibenik’s most prestigious religious brotherhoods, the Brotherhood of St Mary. It is connected to the brotherhood’s ceremonial hall on the other side of the alley by an archway. Mass: June - August 31 Sat 20:00. September - May 31 Sat 19:00. The church is open only during mass.

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WHAT TO SEE

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Šibenik Falconry Centre

Šubićevac Fortress (Tvrđava Šubićevac) L-2. Slightly to the southeast of St John’s fortress and linked by footpath, Šubićevac was built at around the same time and is in many ways a smaller, lower-down-the-hillside version of its neighbour. Šubićevac used to be called “Barone” after Baron Christoph Martin von Degenfeld (1599-1653), the noble-born freebooter who fought under Austrian, Swedish, French and Venetian flags in the course of a long and distinguished military career. Named governor-general of Dalmatia in 1645, he enjoyed three years of success against Ottoman armies before retiring to family estates in southwestern Germany. What remains of the fortress today is fairly disappointing, with little to see save for a couple of semi-ruined buildings covered in (startlingly graphic) vulgarities courtesy of the local spray-can community. However the hilltop location is still exhilarating enough to make a visit worthwhile. There’s a viewing terrace with (pretty scruffy) park benches on top of one of the jutting bastions, offering great views of central Šibenik with the lumpy offshore forms of Zlarin, Prvić and the Kornati islands in the distance. Northwest of Šubićevac, on the path towards St John’s Fortress, are the remains of more World War II bunkers.

Located in woods near Dubrava 8km north of the city centre, the Šibenik Falconry Centre was founded in 2000 to protect birds of prey and educate the local public about wildlife conservation issues. As a collection centre for injured birds, kept here before being returned to the wild, it has become a major tourist attraction. The centre receives birds of prey from all over Croatia, most of which are victims of their interaction with human civilization: typical cases include birds injured by collisions with cars or electric fences, birds orphaned by hunters, or birds that were inappropriately kept as pets by humans. The majority are successfully treated and returned to the wild. Individual visitors are free to admire and photograph any birds currently kept in the Centre’s holding cages (buzzards and eagle owls being the most numerous patients), a wonderful experience that will bring you face to face with creatures that you would normally never see at such close quarters. Pre-booked groups may also be treated to displays of falconry. Šibenik Falconry Centre, Škugori bb, Dubrava kod Šibenika, (+385-) 091 506 76 10. April - October 20 Open 09:00 - 19:00. October 21 - March 31 Open by prior arrangement.Tickets 20 - 40kn.

Landmarks Juraj Dalmatinac C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske. The

great Zadar-born stonemason was resident in Šibenik from 1441 until his death over three decades later, despite long absences working in Split, Dubrovnik, Ancona and elsewhere. Šibenik folk regard him with justification as a local, and this statue on the square outside the Cathedral is very much a statement of municipal patriotism as well as a mark of respect for a great architect. Petar Krešimir IV (1058-1074) E-2, Perivoj Robert Visiani. King Petar Krešimir spent Christmas 1066 here and wrote a proclamation in which Šibenik was mentioned by name, the first ever historical document that did so. For this reason, he’s regarded as something of a founding father by the locals. Poljana E-1, Poljana. This broad irregularly shaped square is very much modern Šibenik’s focal point. It began life as the open space outside the town gates where horse races and archery contests would take place. The square’s most distinguished building is the stately ochre Šibenik Theatre, built in 1870 and patronized by Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph during his Dalmatian tour in 1875. On the other side of the Poljana stands the boldly contemporary public

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Statue of Petar Krešimir IV

library, a wedge of modern glass and steel built onto the side of a buttressed 16th-century bastion. Occupying a niche on the side of the bastion is a statue of the city’s protector, demon-slaying Archangel Michael. Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica) C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. Running along one side of the square opposite the Cathedral, this 16th-century Renaissance structure was almost totally destroyed by allied bombing in 1943, and substantially rebuilt in the aftermath. The beautifully proportioned colonnaded loggia now houses the Vijećnica café-restaurant, and also forms the backdrop to many of the events comprising the annual Šibenik Children’s Festival.

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WHAT TO SEE Parks Perivoj Robert Visiani E-1/2. Named after the Šibenik-

born 19th-century botanist, this stretch of park was laid out in the 1890s, and a section of the medieval town wall was demolished to make way for it. A high proportion of evergreen trees and shrubs ensure that the park retains its colour all year round, while plantings of lavender, rosemary and sage provide waves of pleasantly herby scent. The garden was once the site of a bronze statue of Nikola Tommaseo (18021874), the Šibenik-born Italian-language novelist and critic who had a profound interest in local Dalmatian culture. It’s now the site of a statue of King Petar Krešimir IV. Šubićevac Park L-2, Šubićevac. For a taste of the arid Mediterranean landscape that characterizes central Dalmatia head for this large wooded area uphill from the centre, where a mazy network of paths leads up and down boulder-strewn knolls covered in a mixture of wiry shrubs and evergreens. There’s a kids’ playground near the entrance, and good views over the south-eastern end of the city from the park’s higher reaches. It’s also a good start or finishing point for those exploring the nearby fortresses of St John and Šubićevac.

Juraj Dalmatinac Juraj Dalmatinac (“George the Dalmatian”; born early 1400s, died in 1473 or 1475) Born Juraj Matejev in Zadar, the Adriatic’s greatest 15thcentury architect was already an established stonemason in Venice when he was invited to Šibenik in 1441 to take over a cathedral project that was losing direction. Juraj immediately set about making major changes, applying the up-to-date construction techniques he had learned in Italy to develop curving roof-surfaces for the cathedral’s roof and domes made from an interlocking sequence of long rectangular stone blocks. Juraj’s work on the cathedral was conducted in fits and starts, continually interrupted by lack of funds. Dalmatinac was never short of work elsewhere, however, taking over from renowned Italian architect Michelozzo Michelozzi as Dubrovnik’s chief military engineer in 1461, and laying out the new town of Pag in 1466-67. He also worked in the Italian cities of Urbino and Ancona. Dalmatinac never got round to finishing the famous roof of Šibenik Cathedral, his work being brought to fruition by his successor Nikola Firentinac. As a sculptor, Dalmatinac is best remembered for his work on the apse of Šibenik Cathedral, where the line of stone heads emerging from the wall (thought to be portraits of Juraj’s contemporaries) remain full of life to this day.

Religious Collections Diocesian Museum (Dijecezanski muzej) D-2, Kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-22) 21 48 99. This small but engrossing collection is housed in the 15th-century Chapel of St Barbara (Crkvica svete Barbare), just uphill from the Cathedral. The building itself is a right little charmer, with a quirky assymetrical belfry holding a trio of bells, and a 24-hour clock gracing the façade. The statue of St Nicholas, also on the façade, is the work of prolific 15th-century stonemason Bonino of Milan. Most valuable of the works inside are a 15thcentury polyptich by Blaž Jurjev of Trogir with Virgin and Child flanked by angels and saints; and a polyptich of the Virgin Mary with Saints - one of the few surviving pictures by local master Nikola Vladanov (active 1409-1440). It was probably ordered by one of Šibenik’s religious brotherhoods, which explains why there are a large crowd of realistically-portrayed citizens sheltering beneath the Virgin’s voluminous shawl. Q Open June - August 31 10:00 - 12:30, 17:00 - 19:30. September May 31 Open by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn. Treasury of Benedictine Nunnery of St Luce (Benediktinski samostan Sv. Luce) C-2, Kačićeva

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bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 83 24. Behind a plain green door on Kačićeva is one of Šibenik’s most absorbing attractions, filled with religious objects that may not be astronomically valuable but which nevertheless convey a rich love of craftsmanship and sincere devotion. Most curious and most captivating of the exhibits is a painted clay Madonna dating from the 13th century. A stone inscription above the entrance honours 17th-century benefactor Nikola Buronja, who donated three of his own houses in the order to help get the monastery started. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

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MAIL & PHONES

Post Main post office Borajska bb, Ražine, tel. (+385-22) 34 22 36, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Post office F-1, Ante Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-22) 34 88 00, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Transfer money Western Union F-1, Ante Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 34 77, www.posta.hr. All transactions can be made in branches of the Croatian Post Office and of Splitska banka. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones

Internet places Juraj Šižgorić City Library E-1, Poljana 6, tel. (+38522) 20 12 80, knjiznica-sibenik@si.t-com.hr, www. knjiznica-sibenik.hr. Q June 18 - September 3 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. September 4 - June 17 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.. 10kn / 2h. W Narodna knjižnica i čitaonica Murter Butina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 55 00, knjiznica.murter@ si.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 15kn/1h.

www.inyourpocket.com Postal rates

Tele 2 D-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-22) 31 02 13, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.

Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

T-mobile F-1, Ante Starčevića 9, tel. (+385-) 0800 90 00, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00

Making the call

Closed Sun. A

- 21:00. Closed Sun. Vip E-1, Poljana maršala Tita 5, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

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You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

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GETTING AROUND Public transport Šibenik’s municipal bus ser vice is operated by Autotransport Šibenik, with buses operating from around 06:00 to 22:00. Most important routes for visitors are the no. 3 (which runs from the city centre uphill to Šubićevac, passing the 16th-century fortress on the way), the no. 6 (to the Solaris hotel complex), and the no. 7 (to Brodarica, jump-off point for the island of Krapanj). Best place to catch these buses is the stop right beside the main market (tržnica), where there is a kiosk (open 07:30-20:00) selling tickets and a timetable detailing departures (watch out for reduced services on Sundays). Single tickets on most lines cost 10kn, some longer routes 13kn. Autotransport d.d. G-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 33 25 94/(+385-22) 33 56 06, autotransport@atpsi. hr, www.atpsi.hr.

Train Main train station L-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel. (+385-22) 33 36 99. Although Šibenik is connected to Perković on the Split-Zagreb line, rail travel does not represent a great way of getting around the county. Perković-Zagreb trains do pass through the inland towns of Drniš and Knin, but only twice a day and at inconvenient times - making day trips by rail rather impractical. There is a café at the station (open 06:00-23:00), ticket office and information desk (Open 06:00 - 22:00), a public toilet, but no left-luggage facilities.

Buses Main Bus Station G-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-) 060 368

368. Šibenik county is reasonably well covered by public transport, with services departing from Šibenik’s main bus station. Heading northwest, regular buses (hourly in season) travel from Šibenik to the island of Murter, passing through Vodice, Tisno and Jezera on the way. Travelling inland from Šibenik requires a bit more in the way of careful planning, with only a handful of daily buses to Skradin and Lozovac (main entrance points to the Krka National Park). Watch out for reduced services at weekends. There are plentiful daily buses to the fortress town of Knin, passing through Drniš en route. Moving southeast from Šibenik, regular inter-city coach services to Split and Dubrovnik trundle along the coastal highway, passing the resorts of Primošten and Rogoznica. In Šibenik, tickets should be bought in advance from the counters inside the bus station building. If catching buses in smaller towns along the way, pay the driver or the conductor. The bus station itself is equipped with plenty of cafes and patisseries (mostly Open until 21:00 or 22:00), two ATMs, a left-luggage office (garderoba; daily 07:00 - 22:00, 1.20 2.20kn per item/per hour), ticket office (Open 06:00 - 22:00), information desk (Open 06:30 - 21:30) and a public toilet (07:00 - 22:00).

Car rental Euro-san I/J-2, Ivana Meštrovića 5, tel. (+385-22) 20

02 90, euro-san@si.t-com.hr, www.rentacar-croatia.net.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A Petak E-1, Poljana maršala Tita 2, tel. (+385-22) 33 15 55/(+385-) 091 726 65 35, petak@petak.hr, www. petak.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A

Parking Šibenik has both street parking and pay car parks. Street parking is split into four zones where parking is charged 1 June - 1 September at rates ranging between 3 and 10 kn per hour depending on the zone. You can also buy day tickets at 67 - 165 kn. Parking tickets can be purchased by the hour using your mobile phone: simply send a message with your car registration number as the text to the number shown on the parking meter. There are car parks in two zones: the one in the Draga district and at the railway station are in Zone A, while the car park in the Poljana district is in Zone B. Prices are 6 - 10kn/hour. Beware of parking in dodgy places where your car might get towed away by the city authorities and impounded at the address Velimira Škorpika 5, at a place euphemistically named “Služba za premještanje vozila” - the “Service for relocating vehicles.” How benign! They will kindly return your vehicle to you in return for your payment of the sum of 400 kn plus 50 kn for each day spent in the pound. The pound is open on working days 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, closed Sun. If you spot the car catchers in the act of loading your iron steed onto a terrible vehicle known in Croatian as the pauk, or “spider”, you might get away with a fine of just 200kn. More information on 022 218 459, 091 120 08 23 or pauk@gradski-parking.hr Gradski parking G-2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 22 05, info-parking@gradski-parking.hr, www.gradskiparking.hr.

Road Help HAK (Croatian Auto Club), tel. (+385-22) 1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day. For road information 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German. Šibenik In Your Pocket Sibenik 2.indd 40

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GETTING AROUND Airport Šibenik does not have its own airports but is served by Zadar airport to the northwest and Split airport to the southeast.

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)

Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+38521) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr, www.split-airport.hr. Zadar Airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Zemunik Donji, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, fax (+385-23) 20 58 33, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.zadar-airport.hr.

Ferries Šibenik is the perfect place to indulge in a bit of island hopping, with 2-3 daily Šibenik-Vodice ferries (4-5 in summer but watch out for reduced services on Sunday) sailing via the enchanting islands of Zlarin and Prvić. The trip is a scenic wonder, taking you through the Šibenik canal and offering fantastic views of the St Nicholas sea fort as you pass. Journey times are short, with the whole Šibenik-Vodice journey taking just over one hour. Further offshore, the islands of Kaprije and Žirje are linked to the mainland less often and take slightly longer to get to, but still represent an eminently accessible day out from the city. Note that almost all of these services are for passengers and bicycles only - you can’t take a car on board unless travelling on selected Žirje services. The departure point for these ferries is the jetty pier on the seafront right below the city centre. Tickets should be bought before boarding the boat from the Jadrolinija office diagonally opposite the jetty. The island of Krapanj, just off the shore opposite the settlement of Brodarica, is reached by hourly passenger boat from the Brodarica waterfront (pay on board). Elsewhere, the Kornati islands are not linked to the mainland by regular ferry, and are only accessible via the tourist excursions operated by travel agencies in Murter and Vodice - or with your own yacht.

Jadrolinija E-2, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-

22) 21 34 68, www.jadrolinija.hr. During the other months please check the Jadrolinija’s Web site or give them a call to check opening hours. Q Open 05:30 - 16:30, 18:00 - 21:15, Sun 08:00 - 11:30, 17:30 - 22:00. Jul 02 - September Open 05:30 - 21:15, Sun 08:00 - 11:00, 17:30 - 22:00.

Marinas ACI Marina Jezera Donji kraj bb, Jezera, tel. (+385-

22) 43 92 95, m.jezera@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00. A ACI Marina Piškera Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 470 00 91/(+385-) 091 470 00 92, m.piskera@aci-club. hr, www.aci-club.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 21:30. ACI Marina Vodice Artina 13a, tel. (+385-22 ) 44 30 86, m.vodice@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 21:30. July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00. A ACI Marina Žut Kornati, tel. (+385-22) 786 02 78, m.zut@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. Q Open 08:00 21:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00.

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ACI Skradin Obala bana Pavla Šubića 18, Skradin,

tel. (+385-22) 77 13 65, m.skradin@aci-club.hr, www. aci-club.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00. A Marina Betina Nikole Škevina 15, Betina, tel. (+38522) 43 44 97, marina-betina@si.t-com.hr, www.marinabetina.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - October Open 08:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 21:00. A Marina Frapa Uvala Soline bb, Rogoznica, tel. (+38522) 55 99 00/(+385-22 ) 55 99 31, marinafrapa@ marinafrapa.hr, www.marinafrapa.com. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. AW Marina Hramina Put Gradine 1, Murter, tel. (+38522) 43 44 11, info@marina-hramina.hr, www.marinahramina.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A Marina Kremik Splitska 22-24, Primošten, tel. (+38522) 57 00 68, marina-kremik@adriatiq.com, www. marinakremik-adriatiq.com. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Marina Mandalina N-4, Obala Jerka Šižgorića 1, tel. (+385-22) 46 08 00, reception@mandalinamarina.hr, www.marinamandalina.hr.QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00. Marina Tribunj Jurjevgradska 2, Tribunj, tel. (+38522) 44 71 40, marina-tribunj@adriatiq.com, www. marinatribunj-adriatiq.com. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A Solaris Hotelsko naselje Solaris bb, Šibenik, tel. (+38522) 36 44 40, marina.info@solaris.hr, www.solaris.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A

Travel agencies Cromovens C-3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 4, tel. (+38522) 21 25 15, cromovens@si.t-com.hr, www.cromovens. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Nik L/M-3, Ante Šupuka 5, tel. (+385-22) 33 85 50, info@nik.hr, www.nik.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Samoborček G-2, Draga 4, tel. (+385-22) 21 87 02, agsibenik@samoborcek.hr, www.samoborcek.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Slaptours L-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 7, tel. (+385-22) 31 14 60, info@slaptours.hr, www.slaptours.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Petrol Stations INA - Ražine zapad P-4, Južna magistrala bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 12 71, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

PETROL - Bioci P-4, Put Sv. Mare bb, tel. (+38522) 34 14 44, www.petrol.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PETROL - Kava J-1, Ulica kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 77 23, www.petrol.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

Taxi The easiest way to get a cab is to call 21 96 66; otherwise you’ll find them at ranks outside the bus station or on the Poljana square just outside the Old Town. The start-up fare is 20kn, followed by 9kn per kilometre (10kn at night). You’ll pay an additional 3kn for each piece of luggage. Some taxi drivers have different prices (40kn - 5km, then 10kn/km). We recommend that you check beforehand if waiting is included in the price for the first 5km.

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SHOPPING Shopping centres City Life L/M - 3, Ante Šupuka 10, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 44, www.city-life.com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. Dalmare P - 4, Velimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 34, dalmare@zagreb-montaza.hr, www.dalmare.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. SP Supernova Šibenik H-1, Put Vida 6, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.supernova.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Art Galleries Lana Art C - 1, Fausta Vrančića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 08

91, lana.martinovic.cala@gmail.com. A gallery presenting the work of Lana herself, as well as other artists from Šibenik and all over Croatia. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Matica Hrvatska Gallery - Branch of the Fine Arts Department C-2, Nikola Pavelića 4. Enter a real atelier

which exhibits and sells art. It opened in 1991 and visitors can find original art works, meet and greet artists at work and choose from a multitude of paintings and souvenirs in all forms, shapes and sizes. Q Open Mon, Tue and Wed 17:00 - 19:00. Mokoš C-3, Trg Republike 6, tel. (+385-) 098 75 38 17, info@gallery-mokos.com. Family owned gallery that showcase their own form of artwork, in particular jewellery and sculptures. Q June - September 30 Open 10:00 19:00. JA

Crvenkapa Crvenkapa (The Red Šibenik Cap). You might see on your travels in the Šibenik area a distinctive orangered skullcap worn as a part of folk costume or used as a motif for local restaurants and products. It’s part of the rich folk heritage of this part of the world and is decorated with black wool and silk motifs. If you’d like to nab yourself one as an authentic souvenir, here are the places to try: Nelica Knežević, Blata 47, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 31 22, vedran.knezevic@si.t-com.hr, Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Liposava Kustović, Prvić Šepurina, Island of Prvić, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84. Milena Perčin, Udruga Žena, Postolarska 3, Drniš, tel. (+385-) 091 591 53 96, zena.drnis.woman@si.tcom.hr, www.zena-drnis.com (only on croatian), Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat on request. Closed Sun. Sister Fortunata at the Benedictine convent of St Luce, C-2, Sv. Luce 1, (+385-22) 33 83 24, (+385-) 098 191 75 17, June - September 30 Open 10:00 12:00, 18:00 - 20:30. October - May 31 Open by prior arrangement.

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Croatian creations Charlie Design D-2, Dobrić bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 62 57, www.charlie-design.hr. Our friends’ favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Koke C-3, Stube Petra Kaera 2, tel. (+385-22) 21 29 82, contact@kokedesign.com, kokedesign.com. As you straddle by Saint James’ Cathedral this little workshop is packed with colourful and uplifting clothes, bags, scarves, jewellery, and more. It is a tad hippy and there is something that suits everyone’s taste. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Zlarinka Niz Bebana bb, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 37

33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, 099 191 68 87, zlarinka1@ net.hr. Jewellery made from red Adriatic coral is hard to resist and is part of both the traditional and modern jewellery vernacular of Dalmatia. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 20:00. December, January Open by prior arrangement.

Delicatessen Bibich Fra Luje Maruna 21, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 16 15, vinabibich@vip.hr. All the Bibich wines are for sale here, as well as local rakijas and delicatessen products. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. A Bobis Ante Starčevića 2, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 84 91. Try their “lude torte” - or “crazy cakes” made from crispy layers, marzipan and spun sugar (warmed and spun by hand to form elaborate glassy shapes). Q Open 06:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 06:00 - 23:00. Gracin Put murve 4, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 03 52. A small shop selling a variety of honeys, including sage, rosemary, and the unusual bramble honey (med od drače), plus advice on the amber elixir’s medicinal properties. Q May - October Open 08:00 - 23:00. I-PAK Oštarije 8, Pakovo Selo, tel. (+385-22) 86 40 12. A family-run dairy with its own herd of sheep, and a shop selling cheese - including local speciality sir iz mišine. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. Kockica P - 4, Dalmare centar, Velimira Škorpika 23, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 04/(+385-) 091 422 33 56, cajoteka.rooibos@gmail.com, w w w. cajotekarooibos.com. More than 100 types of tea for your sampling pleasure! Internet corner also, 15min - 5kn. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. A Nira delicije L-3, Stjepana Radića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 252 75 01. When in Dalmatia, eat Dalmatian! Enter and rejoice in local delicacies such as the prestige Drniš prosciutto, pancetta, cheese, honey, honey products, wines, cranberry, orange and lemon rakija. They will pack and slice meat products for you. Take out only! QOpen 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Skradinske delicije Bribirskih knezova bb, Skradin. As well as running a highly recommended restaurant (see p.51), this family business produces its own wine, rakija, skradinska torta and a delicious fig jam that is not too sweet and has a uniquely smooth and succulent feel.They have a little kiosk in the car park during the summer months where you can buy their unusual and mouthwatering comestibles. Q July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00. Svijet čaja L-3, Fra Jeronima Milete 7, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 67/(+385-) 098 76 02 65, info@cajoteka.com. hr, www.cajoteka.com.hr. Devotees of tea may just find sibenik.inyourpocket.com 6/18/2012 4:40:52 PM

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SHOPPING

Ante Šupuka 10, Šibenik www.city-life.com.hr themselves in heaven with a vast range of teas from all four corners of the globe. Choose from black, green, ayurveda, herbal, fruit flavours and more. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Sv. Lovro Olive Oil Rafinery Krapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95, tudic@si.t-com.hr, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Cold pressed olive oil just the way it’s been made here since 1854. Q Open by prior arrangement. June 15 - August 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Vinoplod O - 3, Velimira Škorpika 2, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 33 40 11, www.vinoplod-vinarija.hr. A shop at the winery gates sells bottles at discount prices - a good opportunity to pick up a bottle or two of Babić. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Souvenirs Čivljak D - 2, Ulica kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-

22) 21 20 64. This little jeweller is famous for puce and bagatine - filigree buttons traditionally worn as a part of folk costume, often elaborate in design. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.Closed Sun. A

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Galerija Sv. Kristofor C-2, Kačićeva bb. A majestic place of holy and sacral objects that include rosary beads, paintings, sculptures, natural cosmetics and other religious items. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:30 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sun. NP Krka D - 2, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77. Traditional souvenirs made by local artisans. Q July - August 31 Open 07:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. September - June 30 Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Market Pijaca G - 1, Stankovačka 9. The allure of asparagus,

the charm of chard. Cheeky tomatoes, apricots as soft as a baby’s bum: who can resist a Mediterranean open air market? Šibenik’s marketplace is not to be missed: it’s full of colour, local produce and crazy characters. Why buy plastic fruit from the supermarket when you can buy the real thing and enjoy some friendly banter into the bargain? The market is open from dawn ‘til noon.

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LEISURE

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Beaches Banj. Join the locals on June 17 as they celebrate the opening of a new beach in the heart of the city. The beach is over 12000 square meters and also includes facilities such as a skate park, basketball court, beach volleyball, free-climbing, open air cinema, cafes and restaurants, a children’s playground, and more. Jadrija. Poking out to sea on the western side of St Anthony’s Channel, opposite the Fortress of St Nicholas, the Jadrija peninsula is the site of Šibenik’s municipal lido. During the summer months it can be reached via hourly taxi boat from the Riva. Jadrija was laid out as the municipal beach in 1921 by local benefactor Šime Grubišić Rovilo (1856-1928), and it still has the appearance of an old-style bathing resort, with concrete shoreline platforms and neat functional rows of changing cubicles.

Biking There is a growing choice of activity opportunities on the mainland too, with cycling and hiking the increasingly popular draws. In the Skradin/Krka area, there are marked cycle paths from Skradin to the waterfalls of Skradinski buk, and from Skradin to the Bribirska Glavica archeological site. There are a couple of bicycle rental points in Skradin during the summer. Some of the most exhilarating cycle itineraries are in hinterland of Primošten, where a network of marked routes make use of both tarmac roads and gravelly off-road trails to explore ancient villages such as Draga, Široke and Burnji together with their hillside-hugging vineyards and olive groves. Vodice has its marked cycling roads that connect all the archeological and cultural landmarks on the mainland, as well as the road for the Croatian Cup - MTB tour as well.Tickets can be purchased at the Vodice Tourist Office. The island of Murter is also good for biking, especially in spring and autumn when there is not too much traffic on the roads. At the northwestern end of Šibenik county, the seaside resort of Pirovac provides access to the eastern end of the Vransko Jezero nature park, where several biking trails have been marked. Barbara tours Grgura Ninskog 15a, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 962 56 67. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Dalmatinka Zagrebačka 8, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 03 23, info@dalmatinka.hr, www.dalmatinka.hr. Q July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00, September 1 - 30 Open 09:00 - 20:00. May - June 30 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed October - April. Eseker Majinova bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 56 69/ (+385-) 098 48 09 50, eseker01@yahoo.com, www. esekertours.hr. Q May - October Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Mateo Skradin Obala bana Pavla Šubića 6, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 59 19 93. Q April - October Open 08:00 - 20:00. Tourist agency Tudić Krapanjskih spužvara 46, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95, tudic@si.t-com.hr, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A

Bungee Jumping Šibenik Bridge, tel. (+385-) 099 677 06 31, info@ bungee.com.hr, www.bungee.com.hr/en. Leaping from the bridge over the Krka river is an amazing experience, or so those who have tried it tell us. An experience both for the person jumping, and for their loved ones watching with their hearts in their mouths. Fancy stretching out a few ligaments? On your own head be it… Q July - September Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. 260kn.

Fitness & Gym Life Wellness Centre K-1, Bana Ivana Mažuranića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 07 16, www.life.com.hr. Q July - August 31 Open 08:00 -12:00, 17:30 - 22:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. September - June 30 Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. A

Horse riding Konjički klub Pegasus Mučići bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 091 506 92 34/(+385-) 091 585 32 31, pegasus@pegasus.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. sibenik.inyourpocket.com Sibenik 2.indd 45

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DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC LEISURE Sport events 25.06 Monday - 01.07 Sunday

Regatta Civitanova Šibenik Šibenik.

30.06 Saturday - 01.07 Sunday

Regatta MDF (International Children’s Festival) Šibenik.

26.08 Sunday

Regatta Burtiž 2012 Vodice - Šepurine.

06.09 Thursday - 08.09 Saturday

Big Game Fishing

Rafting Discover Dalmatia Splitska 12, Primošten, info@ discover-dalmatia.hr, www.discover-dalmatia.hr. Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00. A

Nautical Tourism The island-scattered seas of mid-Dalmatia have always been a major destination for nautical tourism, with the Kornati islands in particular serving as an enduringly popular magnet for yachting folk. Vodice is a major starting point for sailing flotillas, with a large marina in the centre of the resort and plenty of schools offering short sailing courses. Both Vodice and the island of Murter are important jumping-off points for sailing trips around the Kornati islands, a beautiful maritime landscape that represents the holy grail of Croatian yachting. Murter island has marinas at Murter town and Jezera (with another marina being built at Tisno), while there are two more marinas in the Kornati islands themselves. Fishing in the crystal-clear waters of the Kornati can be spectacular, although you will need to buy a permit from the Kornati National Park office in Murter. Academia Navalis Adriatica Obala sv. Ivana, Jezera, otok Murter, tel. (+385-51) 71 18 14/(+385-) 099 262 22 92, 099 262 22 73, www.anasail.com. Sailing school. Adria Kayaking Obala Juričev Ive Cota 21a, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 095 678 90 92, www.adriakayaking.hr. Sea kayaking. Q June - September 30 Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00. October - May 31 Open by prior arrangement.

Vodice.

23.09 Sunday - 29.09 Saturday

Big Game Fishing Jezera.

07.10 Sunday

Gabrin Marathon MTB Vodice.

Massage Linija Z I - 1/2, Prokljanska 15, tel. (+385-22) 21 48 63, linija.z@si.t-com.hr, www.linija-z.hr. Q Open 09:00

- 11:00, 15:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. A Tanja Beauty Centre D - 2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 21 97, tanja.perkov@gmail.com, www. beauty-centar-tanja.com. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri 14:00 20:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Spa & Beauty Life Wellness Centre K - 1, Bana Ivana Mažuranića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 07 16, www.life.com.hr. Q July

- August 31 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:30 - 22:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. September - June 30 Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. A Solaris (Solaris Beach Resort) Hotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-22) 36 39 70, info@solaris.hr, www.solaris.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A

Health Dubravica Dental Centre II Stablinac 11, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 47 96, info@dental-centar-dubravica. com, www.dental-centar-dubravica.com. Q Open Mon, Thu 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 12:30, Sat on request. Closed Sun. A Polyclinic Analiza L/M - 2, Matije Gupca 93, tel. (+38522) 31 06 63, sibenik@mcanaliza.org, www.poliklinikaanaliza.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Polyclinic & Optics Ercegović M - 3, Trg Dražena Petrovića bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 39 71, info@ercegovic. hr, www.ercegovic.hr. Also at Dulcin 1, Vodice, tel. (+38522) 44 07 15. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Vita Polyclinic L/M-2, Matije Gupca 93, tel. (+385-22) 31 26 44/(+385-22) 31 26 45, info@dijagnostika-vita. hr, www.dijagnostika-vita.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat by request. Closed Sun. Šibenik In Your Pocket

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DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC

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Spongiola Diving Centre

People have always been curious to discover the secrets concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails. But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal the greatest mysteries of the planet. On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know, for example, that towards the end of the 19th century people from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised diving as a recreational pastime. They published photographs and writings documenting their underwater adventures in the 1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using diving equipment they had made themselves. Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of diving enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic definitely have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore. This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers. The Adriatic is shallow, warm and salty. The seabed is either rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents in places, mainly in channels where the water surges between islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands. Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive under water rock faces and reefs and is dotted wi th shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane which has found its way down there. And this fascinating world extends right along the length of the Croatian coast.

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The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of the most attractive locations here are around the islands of Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik area. Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting – and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are: the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica on the island of Korčula.

Manta Diving Centre

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DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC Dive Centres There are scuba diving centres throughout the region, although it is on the island of Krapanj - long famous as the centre of the Adriatic sponge-diving industry - that it has the longest tradition. Skradin, with its access to the sea inlet known as the Prukljansko jezero is an important training base for rowers, canoeists and kayakers. Mediterraneo Sub Grgura Ninskog 1, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 539 4007, mediteraneosub80@ hotmail.com, www.mediteraneosub.com. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Najada diving Put Jersan 17, Murter, tel. (+38522) 43 60 20, 43 56 30, anna.nokela@najada.com, www.najada.com. Q Open 08:30 - 19:00. Vertigo Hotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-22) 36 44 61, info@vertigo.hr, www.vertigo.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Spongiola Diving Center Obala 1/58, Krapanj,tel. (+385-) 091 883 83 94, diving@spongiola.com, www.spongioladiving.com. Q Open 08:00-13:00, 15:30-19-:30 Manta Huljerat bb (Adriatiq Auto camp), Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 26 59 23, 098 44 32 83, manta@ st.t-com.hr, www.crodive.info. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Spongiola Diving Centre

Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka. Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks with a special permit. And you need prior permission from the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following locations: The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo and Palagruža Around (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57 The archaeological sites at Žirje and Cavtat So long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an individual or as part of a group. If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia, contact a registered diving instructor, school or association (see the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If you’re going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark the spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive to depths greater than 40m. The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile characters may become aggressive if they perceive you as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every diver is

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responsible for protecting the fragile underwater environment. Your aim should be to leave no trace of your dive when you have finished. Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course, before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you know exactly what you’re doing! We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!

Najada Diving Centre

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DIRECTORY Banks & Exchanges Erste & Steiermarkische Bank E-1, Poljana maršala

Tita 5, tel. (+385-) 062 37 45 40, erstebank@erstebank. hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Jadranska banka F-1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+38522) 24 22 42, banka@jadranska-banka.hr, w w w. jadranska-banka.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka E-1, Vladimira Nazora 1, tel. (+38522) 32 21 50, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. June 18 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisenbank Austria M - 3, Trg Dražena Petrovića bb, tel. (+385-22) 34 88 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka E-1, Poljana maršala Tita 2, tel. (+38522) 21 46 63, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka L-3, Fra Jerolima Milete bb, tel. (+385-22) 20 13 70, www.zaba.hr. Q Open 08:00 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

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Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

192 93 94 9155

Varoš C - 1, Kralja Zvonimira 32, tel. (+385-22) 21 22 49. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed

Sun. A

Veterinary clinics Gardijan J-1/2, Kralja Zvonimira 143, tel. (+385-22)

33 37 11/(+385-) 098 34 74 15, vet.amb.gardijan@ si.t-com.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Veterinarska stanica Šibenik J-1/2, Kralja Zvonimira 83, tel. (+385-22) 33 33 22, veterinarska.ambulanta. more@si.t-com.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 14:00.

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Business connections Croatian Chamber of Economy - Šibenik Chamber

(Županijska komora Šibenik) L - 3, Fra Jerolima Milete 31, tel. (+385-22) 31 16 00, fax (+385-22) 31 16 10, hgksi@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts - Šibenik Knin County (Obrtnička komora Šibensko-kninske županije) F-1, Ulica Stjepana Radića 77a, tel. (+385-22) 31 17 15, ok.sibenik@hok.hr, www.hok.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Interservis Bulat I-1, Trtarska 113, tel. (+385-22)

21 75 70, interservis@interservis-bulat.hr, w w w. interservis-bulat.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Terra Dalmatica F-3, Obala hrvatske mornarice 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 35 06, info@terradalmatica.hr, www. terradalmatica.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Zdenka C - 1, Kralja Zvonimira 98, tel. (+385-22) 33 33 70/(+385-) 098 52 68 69. Dry cleaners. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

Hospital General Hospital L/M - 3, Stjepana Radića 83, tel. (+385-22) 64 16 41, www.bolnica-sibenik.hr.

Pharmacies Baldekin L/M - 3, Stjepana Radića 56a, tel. (+38522) 33 20 68. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Central Pharmacy F - 1, Stjepana Radića bb, tel.

(+385-22) 21 35 39, centrala@ljekarna-sibenik.com. hr, www.ljekarna-sibenik.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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Tax Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

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ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY Šibenik County (or Šibensko-kninska županija as it is known in Croatian) offers a huge amount of variety, with swanky yachting marinas and party-till-sunrise tourist resorts rubbing shoulders with archaic villages and large tracts of sun-parched Mediterranean maquis. The Krka and Kornati national parks are the two must-do daytrips, although with islands, coves and stony hillsides in abundance, you’re unlikely to be stuck for natural beauty spots.

Inland from Šibenik Inland from Šibenik lies a dry rocky plateau characterized by jagged chunks of limestone and a scattering of wiry shrubs. Here and there the maquis has been cleared to provide space for vineyards, olive groves and pastures, the plots divided up by dry-stone walls. Despite the existence of major towns like Drniš, Knin and Skradin, large tracts of land feature little apart from isolated farmsteads and endof-the-road villages, many featuring the rough-hewn stone architecture typical to this part of Dalmatia. The river Krka is the area’s main natural feature and the Krka National Park is the most-visited regional sight - the park is covered under a separate section below.

Drniš Hugging the high ground above the Čikola river, Drniš was a medieval fortress town before falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522. Nowadays it is an important market centre midway along the main road from Šibenik to Knin. Ruins of the medieval fortress poke up from the Gradina, the rocky hill above town. Little remains of this medieval strongpoint save for a stark portion of the southern tower, which pokes up from the hill like a bad tooth. Nearby is a minaret dating from around 1500, all that’s left of an Ottoman-era mosque. Thanks to a new lighting system installed in December 2010, these ruins are dramatically illuminated at night. Occupying pride of place in the town itself is St Anthony’s Church, a 16th-century mosque that was converted to Catholic use in the 1670s by Franciscan monks from nearby

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Visovac. Housed in the former home of Drniš politician Nikola Adžija (1875-1972), the Municipal Museum has archeological and ethnological displays alongside a collection of works by Croatia’s greatest sculptor Ivan Meštrović (1883-1962), who spent his early years in nearby Otavice. Adžija was one of the early supporters of the young Meštrović, helping to raise money that paid for the promising local lad’s studies. City Museum of Drniš Domovinskog rata 38, tel. (+385-22) 88 67 74, gradski.muzej.drnis@si.t-com.hr, www.gmd.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Drniš Tourist Board Domovinskog rata 5, tel. (+38522) 88 86 19/(+385) 095 968 04 20, info@tz-drnis.hr, www.tz-drnis.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Knin Sprawled across a green plain overlooked by the bleak Dinara mountains, Knin has long been a town of crucial strategic importance, controlling the medieval trade routes linking Dalmatia with the Balkan interior, and in more recent times the location of a major railway junction. It’s most famous sight is Knin fortress, an impressively well-preserved agglomeration of crag-hugging walls and towers that hovers above the winding Krka river. An important strongpoint from the 10th century onwards, Knin became the capital of Croatia under King Zvonimir (ruled 1076-1089), a status it retained until 1097 when Croatia accepted the rule of the Hungarian crown. Knin remained a much-coveted military prize, falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522, who were in turn turfed out by the Venetians in 1688. Knin served as the headquarters of Serbian-occupied territory during the 1991-1995 war, and the raising of the Croatian flag over Knin fortress in August 1995 brought a highly symbolic end to hostilities. Central Knin is not a wildly exciting place, and it’s best to make your way straight to the fortress. The steep climb is rewarded by superb views of the surrounding countryside, with the mountains of the Dinara range filling the northern horizon. The fortress itself is an extensive and highly evocative complex of fortifications constructed at different

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ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY

stages, filled with a maze of cobbled alleys, ramps and stairways beneath ivy-covered walls. Spearing up from the highest point of the fortress is a flagpole hung with an unusually large Croatian tricolor, a reminder of Knin’s highly significant place in the history of modern Croatia. In the eastern part of the fortress, a former barrack building houses an ethnographic collection displaying costumes and agricultural implements from the Knin region. Nearby, the fortress’s former hospital plays host to an archeological museum. Museum of the town of Knin Fra Luje Maruna 1, tel. (+385-22) 66 07 21, kninski.muzej.knin@si.t-com. hr, www.kninskimuzej.hr. Q April 15 - September 30 Open 07:00 - 18:00. October - April 14 Open 07:00 - 15:00. Admission 20kn. Knin Tourist Board Tuđmanova 24, tel. (+385-22) 66 48 22, www.tz-knin.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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Drniš Tourist Board Domovinskog rata 5, tel. (+38522) 88 86 19/(+385-) 095 968 04 20, info@tz-drnis.hr, www.tz-drnis.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Ivan Meštrović Museum - The Church of the Holy Redeemer Otavice , Village Ružić, tel. (+385-) 098 40 75 38, mim@mestrovic.hr. Q May - September

30 Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. October - April 30 Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Otavice Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists. Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is open as a tourist attraction during whole year.

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ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY Agritourism Banovi dvori Dubrava kod Tisnog, Tisno, tel. (+385- 22) 46 63 79/(+385-) 098 33 68 85, seosko.gospodarstvo-banovi.dvori@si.t-com.hr, w w w.banovidvori.com. Twelve kilometres inland from Tisno on a well-signed country road, Banovi dvori serves up authentic local culinary treats in a modern but nevertheless atmospheric dining room with wooden ceiling beams, stuffed animals above the bar, and an allpervading aroma of good cooking. Speciality of the house is lamb or veal cooked under a peka, a metal lid covered in glowing embers. These meals take two hours to prepare, which is why it is a good idea to ring and reserve early in the day - or risk going hungry. Accompanied by potatoes baked in the same pot, the resulting meals are wonderfully succulent and generously-portioned: ask for a doggy bag if you can’t quite finish your dinner off in one go. The house wine (red Plavina or white Debit) comes from the owner’s back-garden plantation. He sells selfproduced olive oil, honey and rakija to boot. Q Open by prior arrangement. Etnoland Dalmati Bilići bb, Pakovo selo, Drniš, tel. (+385-) 099 220 02 00, info@dalmati.com, www. dalmati.com. Q Open by prior arrangement. Jurlinovi dvori Draga 21, Primošten Burni, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 41 06/(+385-22) 33 32 15, info@jurlinovidvori.org, www.jurlinovidvori. org. Q Open by prior arrangement. Skradinske delicije Bićine Velike 31, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 48/(+385-) 091 520 93 30, info@ skradinske-delicije.hr, www.skradinske-delicije.hr. This family house in the village of Bićine above Skradin conceals a characterful konoba strewn with traditional household nick-nacks, with grandma’s old frying pans hanging from the ceiling and bunches of dried herbs placed at strategic locations around the walls. The menu concentrates on cured meats, Adriatic seafood and local lamb, although you should ring in advance to reserve a table. The family make their own honeys, rakija and marmalade - a selection of which are always on sale. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Pakovo Selo Twenty kilometres north of Šibenik on the main road to Knin, Pakovo Selo is a traditional inland-Dalmatian village famous for its sheep - and its tasty sheep’s cheese, sir iz mišine, matured the traditional way by being stuffed into a tube made of sheep entrails. Pakovo Selo owes its place on the global tourist map to Etnoland, an ethnographic theme park that aims to introduce visitors to the traditional lifestyles of the Dalmatian karst. Just off the village’s main crossroads, Etnoland is a walled complex containing a collection of traditional stone buildings, each holding a display of oldeworlde furnishings that reveal something about Dalmatian life a century or so ago. Etnoland is geared up to receiving pre-booked groups, and individual tourists should reserve well in advance and be prepared to pay the full group price. The standard tour lasts about 1hr 15 minutes, and includes a welcome swig of rakija, a spot of pršut-and-wine tasting and a quick blast of klapa choral singing as well as a guided tour of the displays. Visitors can also book a 2-3hr slot that includes a full meal and folklore show. For more information see Agritourism on page 51. Drniš Tourist Board Domovinskog rata 5, tel. (+38522) 88 86 19/(+385-) 095 968 04 20, info@tz-drnis.hr, www.tz-drnis.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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Skradin Squeezed into a sheltered bay near the point where the river Krka flows into the Prukljansko Lake, Skradin was a flourishing settlement in the Illyrian and Roman periods (when it was known as Scardona), and subsequently served as the 13th-century power-base for the Šubić princes of Bribir, one of Croatia’s leading aristocratic clans. Skradin fell to the Ottomans in 1522 and most of its population fled to Šibenik, although it was regained by the Venetians in 1684. Nowadays it is an important stepping-stone for tourists bound for the Krka National Park, and an important inland stopping-off point for yachtsfolk touring the Adriatic coast. Skradin is increasingly well known as a gastronomic destination, too, boasting a handful of restaurants offering superb seafood and some unique regional treats. Lapped by the waters of the Krka, Skradin’s Old Town is centred on the triangular Trg Male Gospe, site of a handsome Baroque parish church with a free-standing belfry. From here a pedestrianized main street heads north, with an atmospheric sequence of arched alleyways leading off on either side. Constantly busy with fishing vessels and yachts, Skradin’s waterfront is also the departure point for shuttleboats into the Krka National Park (see p.60). Museum Collection of Skradin Trg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 80. Q July - September Open 18:00 - 22:00. Admission free. Skradin Tourist Board Trg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+38522) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29, tz-skradin@si.tcom.hr, www.skradin.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Skradin Religious Collection Trg Male Gospe 4, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 71. Q Open by prior arrangement. Tourist Information Centre Obala b. Pavla Šubića, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29, tz-skradin@ si.t-com.hr, www.skradin.hr. Q June - October Open 08:00 - 20:00.

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ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY Brodarica - Krapanj Tourist Board Krapanjskih spužvara 1, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 12, info@ tz-brodarica.hr, www.tz-brodarica.hr. Q June, September Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. October - May 31 Open Mon, Fri 17:00 - 20:00, Wed 09:00 - 12:00.

Prvić

Islands The islands of Krapanj, Zlarin, Prvić, Kaprije and Žirje may seem close to Šibenik geographically, but are light years away in terms of atmosphere. Featuring stone-built settlements that appear to have changed little in decades (perhaps even centuries), surrounded by relatively unspoilt nature, they offer an entirely different experience of the Adriatic. Getting to the islands is easy: Krapanj is accessible by boat (roughly hourly) from Brodarica, the coastal village 7km southeast of Šibenik; while Zlarin and Prvić lie on the route of the ŠibenikVodice ferry (2-4 daily depending on season). A separate ferry service (1-2 daily) sails from Šibenik to Žirje and Kaprije.

In many ways Prvić is a smaller version of Zlarin, a verdant and unspoiled island with plenty in the way of traditional Mediterranean architecture. It has two main settlements Prvić Luka at the eastern end, and Šepurine at the west - Prvić has a slightly larger permanent population and is marginally more lively as a result. Prvić was traditionally the summer retreat of Šibenik’s leading families, and remains associated with one great Šibenik name in particular - priest, diplomat and scientist Faust Vrančić (1551-1617). Vrančić was buried in Prvić Luka’s parish church, and a major Faust Vrančić memorial museum is currently under construction right in

Kaprije Named after the locally abundant caper (kapar in Croatian), Kaprije is a blissfully unspoiled island with no roads and hardly any motor vehicles of any sort (officially it’s a car free island, although there are a few old wrecks dotted around the place that got here somehow). The small village of Kaprije caters for the hundred-or-so permanent inhabitants. Private rooms and apartments cater for a summer influx of tourists, although the island is never in danger of being overrun. Kaprije’s uniquely sheltered bay is an increasingly popular anchor-dropping point for yachtsfolk exploring the nearby Kornati, while the island’s numerous coves are ideal for a spot of secretive bathing. Šibenik Tourist Board C - 1, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75/(+385-22) 21 90 73, tz-sibenik@ si.t-com.hr, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. QOpen 07:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Krapanj Lying only 300 metres off the shore of Brodarica, the lowlying island of Krapanj was once famous for being the centre of the Adriatic sponge industry, with most of the island’s male population devoting their time to sponge-diving. Nowadays Krapanj is a relatively quiet but undoubtedly attractive spot, with a line of stone houses along the mainland-facing waterfront, and a handful of souvenir shops selling spongethemed gifts. Slightly inland from the shoreline is the Franciscan Monastery, founded in 1435 when monks from Bosnia were gifted the island by local nobles. The monastery museum contains religious artworks, including an extraordinarily expressive 15th-century crucifix carved by Split-based priest Juraj Petrović. The walled graveyard next door contains several family tombs honouring one-time sponge divers, many pictured in relief form wearing their large spherical deep-sea helmets. Head to the basement of the nearby Hotel Spongiola (see p.17) to find a small but entertaining display of exhibits connected with the local sponge-harvesting industry, including a lead-booted diving suit, and early 20thcentury air pumps.

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Hunting The island of Žirje is one of the fur thest islands in the Šibenik archip ela go an d a favourite destination for Italians. Šljuka bena (Scolopax rusticola L.) is a sub type of bird hunted all over th e world and importantly a great assortment of meals can be made from this li ttle bird. Hunting these birds has traditionally been well re cei ved for a number of years now due Žirje (a place which is this birds last destination during their flight towards the southern hemisphere and towards Africa), when all other continental hunting places are closed. One can also hunt rabbit, pheasant, wild rabbit and pigeons there too. All activities surrounding the organization are coordinated by the ranger-hunter Mr Željko Šižgorić who can be contacted between 08:00 -20:00 via mobile: (+385-) 095 905 62 62.

Hungry? See our top picks for where to eat this summer! (page 21) sibenik.inyourpocket.com 6/18/2012 4:43:37 PM

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front of Prvić Lukas’s ferry jetty. Educated in Padua, Vrančić served at the Habsburg court in Prague before devoting himself to his writings. His Latin-Italian-German-HungarianCroatian dictionary (published in 1595) was a landmark in Croatian language study. His more famous Machinae Novae, published in Venice in 1615, contains 49 copperplate engravings of machines and inventions, in conscious homage to the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci published several decades earlier. Most famous of the illustrations is Homo Volans, which pictures a man descending through the air attached to a square canvas parachute. English clergyman and scientist John Wilkins, writing some 30 years later, claimed that Vrančić actually tested the parachute himself by jumping from the belfry of St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice. The museum will eventually display models of the machines illustrated in Vrančić’s book of innovations Machinae Novae, and a film about his life and work. A narrow lane leads over the brow of a hill from Prvić Luka to the island’s other settlement, Šepurine. A hive-like village of stone houses, Šepurine is centred on a parish church whose distinctive bulbous belfry is topped by an extravagant weather vane. Vodice Tourist Board Obala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, info@vodice.hr, www.vodice.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. October - May 15 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May 16 - 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Zlarin Lying right opposite St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow waterway that connects Šibenik with the open sea, Zlarin is a green island covered in olive groves and wild shrubs.Zlarin has got the longest island promenade in Croatia (127.50m). Saint Fortunato is the protector of the island Zlarin so the most frequent names on the island are Srećko, Nato and Refortunato! Coral fishing has been associated with the island ever since the 15th century, when the raw coral was exported to Dubrovnik and other cities to be processed into fashion accessories. During the 1950s coral fishing went into decline due to depleted stocks, although at least one coral-processing workshop still exists on the island, and several souvenir shops open up in summer to sell coral bracelets and earrings. Zlarin village is a beautiful settlement of stone-built houses arranged around a bay. Key landmark is the impressive clocktower built in 1829 and known as the Leroj (local version of the Italian word for clock, orologio), crowned by an attractively spindly weather vane. Slightly uphill to the west is the 18th-century Church of the Assumption, worth a peek on account of the hairy-looking gargoyles gazing down from either side of the pediment. Occupying a stone house at the eastern end of town, Zlarin Museum displays finds from a shipwrecked Roman galley found by marine archeologists just off the Šibenik coast, and an “ethnographic room” containing domestic utensils and traditional costumes. The upper floor of the same building houses the Zlarinka coral workshop, where coral is cut, burnished and made into jewelry. You can admire all manner of necklaces, bangles and baubles in the Zlarinka shop, and take a peek at the polishing process in the workroom next door. Further east, the Chapel of St Simon (Crkvica sv. Šime) has a small collection of church treasures, open in the summer months. Continue along the road past the chapel and you’ll arrive after 10 minutes at the Church of Our Lady of Raselj (Gospe od Raselje), a church of medieval origins that contains a miracle-working image of the Virgin. Inside, model ships hang from the ceiling as a gesture of thanks from devout sailors.

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ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY Etno museum Zlarinka Niz Bebana bb, tel. (+385-22

) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, 099 191 68 87, zlarinka1@net.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. December, January Open by prior arrangement. Admission 5 - 10kn. Zlarin Tourist Board Sunčana obala 14, tel. (+385-22) 55 35 57, tzzlarin@net.hr. Q June - September 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.

Žirje Of Šibenik County’s permanently populated islands, Žirje is both the largest, and the furthest out to sea. With a scattering of private accommodation but no hotels (and, like Kaprije, virtually no motor transport), it is something of a Shangri-la among tourists for whom the phrase “getting away from it all” really means what it says. Most of the island is covered in maquis, although vines, olives and figs make up an important part of the landscape. Newly marked bicycle- and footpaths provide an ideal means of exploring the island. Šibenik Tourist Board C - 1, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75/(+385-22) 21 90 73, tz-sibenik@ si.t-com.hr, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. QOpen 07:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

North of Šibenik The main resort on this stretch of coast is Vodice, complete with big hotels and boisterous nightlife, although the smaller coastal settlements of Pirovac and Tribunj provide quieter alternatives.

Murter is also a beautiful, relatively unspoiled parcel of Adriatic nature, made up of a sequence of rocky hillocks, pines and tamarisks, and acre upon acre of olive trees - many growing wild amid thorny Mediterranean maquis. Piles of stone heaped up on the hillside recall the times when local villagers cleared the rocky ground to create small patches of cultivable land, collecting the spoil into thick dry-stone walls that have slowly collapsed with time, creating the enigmatic cones and pyramids seen today. Over to the west are the alluring profiles of the Kornati islands, and it is Murter’s status as main gateway to the Kornati National Park that brings a constant stream of nautically-inclined visitors. Tisno ‘Tisno’ is Dalmatian dialect for ‘narrow’, which is an accurate description of the town’s location, hugging both shores of the narrow strait that divides the island of Murter from the Croatian mainland. The bridge that spans the strait is raised at regular intervals (twice a day in summer, at 9am and 5pm) to allow boats to pass through the town. There is an engaging huddle of old buildings in the historic core of the town on the south side of the bridge, where the 18th century Katunarić Palace contains a small history display including finds from a Roman villa at nearby Plitka Uvala bay. Paths lead up beyond the Parish Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) to the hilltop shrine of Our Lady of Caravaggio (Gospe od Karavaja), a popular pilgrimage site established by families who moved here from northern Italy in the late 17th century. There are sumptuous views of the surrounding countryside from the top. Back at sea level, the town’s long coastline on both sides of the straits makes it perfect for extended shoreline strolls. The rock-and-pebble beaches at Lovišča (southwest) and Jazina (northwest) are ideal for a family-oriented splashing-around holiday. Tisno Tourist Board, Istočna Gomilica 1a, tel. (+38522) 43 86 04, info@tz-tisno.hr, www.tz-tisno.hr. June 1 - 30 Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. July - September 15 Open 08:00 - 21:00. September 16 - May 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jezera A relatively tranquil port sprawling around a broad bay. Jezera (“the Lakes”) gets its name from the seasonal ponds that used to appear on the outskirts of the entrance to the village. One of them, called Lokva (”Puddle”), still exists behind the Parish Church and fills with water in rainy periods of the spring and autumn. The other one, known as Blato (“Mud”), further south, was filled in during the early 20th century and is now grazing land. Jezera’s pretty centre spreads horseshoe-style around a bay raked with yacht jetties and breakwaters. The hilltop chapel of Sveti Rok (immediately south of the Lokva) provides an easy target for recreational hikers. The best beaches are a long walk (or short drive) south of the village, in coves such as Podjasenovac and Kromašna. The rural tracks linking Jezera with these and other bays forge their way through olive groves and are ideal for cycling. Jezera Tourist Board, Put Zaratića 3, tel. (+385-22) 43 91 20, turisticka-zajednica-jezera@si.htnet.hr, www.tzjezera.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00.

Murter Although joined to the mainland by a short and stumpy bridge, Murter is technically an island and still feels like a self-contained world of its own. Relatively low on large-sized package hotels, Murter has developed a regular clientele of independently-minded tourists who sleep in the island’s plentiful supply of private rooms and apartments, and although it can be busy in summer - it has a more laid-back atmosphere than the mainland towns.

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Murter With a cluster of stone houses at its core and an extensive suburban spread of modern villas, Murter constitutes a relaxing blend of Dalmatian history and easy-going modern vacations. Most Murter families were granted farm land on the nearby Kornati islands in the past, which explains why most of the houses in Murter face out to sea, with a small jetty and boat mooring serving as some kind of aquatic front door. Locals do indeed claim that Murter has the highest number of boats in proportion to the local population than anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Of the several yachting marinas in Murter, the ACI marina at the northern end of town is one of the best equipped in the Adriatic, with a big repair yard. Everything in Murter revolves around the irregular-shaped, café-lined town square, Trg Rudina, which opens out towards a palm-lined seafront promenade at its northern end. Stroll west from here along the narrow alleyway known as Luke to enjoy a taste of Murter’s traditional stone architecture. One of the most atmospheric parts of town is Selo, grouped around a cone-shaped hill 800 metres south of the seafront. The narrow streets of Selo lead uphill towards St Rock’s Chapel (Kapelica svetog Roka), a gleaming whitewashed building that is the site of a major religious procession on St Rock’s Day (August 16). From the chapel’s forecourt you can enjoy a stupendous panorama of Murter with the lumpy brown-green forms of the Kornati islands rising up in the distance. The narrow streets below the chapel contain some of the oldest and most picturesque of Murter’s stone houses. Rising beyond the yachting marina on the northeast side of town is the scrub-covered hill known as Gradina, site of an Illyrian fortress subsequently occupied by the Romans - who went on to build the settlement of Colentum on the hill’s slopes. Follow the shoreline path around the graveyard of the Church of Our Lady of Gradina (Crkva gospe od Gradina) and you will arrive at a the former site of a Roman villa, its walls partially rebuilt by conservationists to provide an idea of what it once looked like. There is not a great deal else of Colentum to see (much of it lies underwater), but the bayside location is a powerfully evocative spot. Most popular of Murter’s beaches is Slanica, 1.5km west of the main square, a part-shingle part-sand beach that gets crowded in summer. There are bars and a pizzeria behind the beach, and coastal paths that lead to rockier (and potentially more secluded) parts of the coast in either direction. Follow the coastal path south from Slanica and you will arrive after 20-30 minutes at Čigrađa beach, an attractive crescent of pebble bordered by a jetty for small boats. Behind the beach lies a cool beach bar in the shape of Lantana (see p.30) and a well-regarded seafood restaurant (the Čigrađa, see p.21). Čigrađa can also be reached by road from the centre of Murter - take the main southbound road out of town and turn right when you see the sign. Murter - Kornati Tourist Board, Rudina bb, tel. (+385-22) 43 49 95, info@tzo-murter.hr, www.tzomurter.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00. June 18 - September Open 08:00 - 21:00.

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Betina Over on the northeastern side of the Gradina headland (and within easy walking distance of Murter), the village of Betina used to be a major ship-building centre and part of the seafront is still taken up by small repair yards catering for yachts and local fishing boats. At the centre of the settlement is a kasbah-like maze of narrow alleys grouped around the Parish Church of St Francis (Crkva svetog Frane), famous for its distinctive octagonal belfry topped by a bulbous red dome and spindly weather vane. Betina Tourist Board, Trg na moru 2, tel. (+385-22) 43 65 22, tz-betina@hi.t-com.hr. May - October 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00. November - April 30 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Pirovac Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of Šibenik, Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by a tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas. A gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through to the historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone houses and cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-century parish church. Pirovac Tourist Board Kralja Krešimira IV br. 6, tel. (+385-22) 46 67 70, tz-pirovac@si.t-com.hr, www.tzpirovac.hr. Q June 1 - 15 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. June 16 - August 31 Open 07:00 - 21:00. September - May 31 Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tribunj Thirty minutes’ walk along the seafront from Vodice, Tribunj is a relatively calm fishing village centred on a thumb-shaped island joined to the mainland by a bridge. There’s a tight cluster of old houses on the island itself, and a large yachting marina on the opposite side of the bay. Overlooking the bridge on the mainland side is the Parish Church of Our Lady (Crkva velike Gospe), a 19th-century building containing a cluster of neo-Baroque altars and a shrine to Saint Nicholas (the patron of sea-farers) that features an intricate model ship. For those who need to stretch their legs, a path leads up behind Tribunj’s parish church towards the hilltop chapel of St Nicholas, passing shrines marking the Stations of the Cross on the way. There are splendid views of the coastline from the summit. To the west of Tribunj, Sovlja is a small settlement resting on a shallow inlet, with a rock-and-pebble beach that’s a peaceful alternative to those in nearby Vodice. Tribunj’s other main claim to fame is the festival of donkey

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ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY races that takes place every year in the first week of August. The traditional local affection for the four-legged braying beast is nurtured by the Tribunj-based Hrvatski Tovar (“Croatian Donkey”) organization, formed in 1999. There is a donkey reserve on the island of Logorun just offshore to the southwest. Tribunj Tourist Board Badnje bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 61 43, tztribunj@inet.hr, www.tz-tribunj.hr. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Vodice Twelve kilometres north of Šibenik, Vodice is the most-visited tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel developments on either side of its broad bay and a large and well-equipped yachting marina in the middle. There is a small nucleus of historic buildings and narrow streets in the centre of Vodice, surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise sprawl of family houses and tourist-oriented apartment buildings. Vodice’s beaches consist mostly of concrete, gravel and pebble, so don’t get too excited about building any sandcastles. The town gets its name from the many sources of drinkable water in the area (voda is Croatian for “water”). Indeed the city of Šibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water from Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped water system was constructed. Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the Ćorić Tower, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the 15th century to defend the town against the Ottomans. A solid-looking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquarium, which contains an entertaining and educational display of Adriatic sea creatures, which - featuring sea bream, sea bass and dentex - looks rather like a 3-D menu for the seafood restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is a fine collection of antique amphorae salvaged by underwater archeologists, and an impressive collection of model boats from all ages and countries - they range from traditional Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish warship Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes of its launch.

Aquarium and Museum of the maritime tradition

Obala Matice hrvatske 33, tel. (+385-22) 44 42 93/ (+385-) 098 35 30 63, 098 21 46 34, www.aquariumvodice.com. Q 15 June - September 30 Open 10:00 - 22:00. October - June 14 Open by prior arrangement. Admission 15 - 25kn. Vodice Tourist Board Obala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, info@vodice.hr, www.vodice.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. October - May 15 Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May 16 - 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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South of Šibenik South of Šibenik stretches a heavily indented coastline lined with low-key villages boasting a variety of pebbly and rocky beaches. The main resorts here are Primošten, 21km south of Šibenik, equipped with a cluster of well-patronized hotels; and Rogoznica slightly further on, site of one of the region’s biggest yachting marinas. One the way there you’ll pass plenty of characterful, quieter spots. Grebaštica lies on a long thin bay overlooked by the ruins of a Venetian defensive wall. Dolac, just south of Grebaštica, is a small coastal village whose seafront is made up primarily of slabs of rock - perfect platforms for a summer skin-roasting session.

Primošten Catching sight of Primošten from the coastal road is one of the many love-at-first-sight experiences that the Croatian Adriatic has to offer. An attractive old town is squeezed onto an thumb of land jutting into a turquoise sea, while the wooded peninsula of Raduča sprouts off to the north, fringed by a large and splendid gravel beach. Primošten’s origins go back to the Ottoman conquest of Bosnia in 1463, when the Croatian-speaking population of the interior increasingly sought refuge on the Adriatic coast. The oval-shaped island known as Gola Glava (“Bare Head”) was one of the places they settled. A wooden bridge was constructed to join the island onto the mainland, and the resulting town became known as Primošten (which might be loosely translated as “the place with a bridge across”). As the Ottoman threat receded, the wooden bridge was replaced by a stone causeway, turning Primošten into the peninsula town that visitors see today. On the landward side of the causeway is the dainty stoneroofed Chapel of St Rock (1680), beside which is a statue of Don Ivo Šarić (1915-1944), who attempted to protect the local population against atrocities by both Italian and German occupiers during World War II, before finally being murdered by the latter. In front of the statue stretches a typically sweet-smelling Adriatic garden filled with lavender bushes, rosemary, and a clutch of palm trees. Presiding over the causeway to the Old Town is a much-loved piece of sculpture depicting a local fisherman accompanied by wife and donkey. At the opposite end of the causeway, an arched gate leads through a stretch of crenellated wall into the Old Town, where a tangle of narrow streets surround the 15thcentury parish church of St George. Much favoured by Hollywood director Orson Welles (who had a summer villa here), the beaches of Raduča are packed with bathers in summer.

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ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY Inland from Primošten Occupying the high ground uphill from Primošten is an enchanting area of maquis-choked villages and country lanes lined by dry stone walls. Densely planted with olives and vines, this was the agricultural heartland of the region until tourism took off and the working lives of the locals become focused on the coast. All of the villages here have suffered rural depopulation, and once profitable crops have been left to go to seed - although an increasing number of local families are returning to their ancestral properties and revitalizing the olive groves. The region’s rich stock of traditional stone buildings is increasingly appreciated too, as can be seen from the popularity of the restored Jurlinovi Dvori farmstead in the hillside village of Draga. As well as containing ethnographic displays and an art gallery, Jurlinovi Dvori also offers food and drink, and has become a major tourist attraction as a result. Most of the visitors are pre-booked groups, although individual tourists are welcome to look around as well. The restored farmstead represents the life’s work of local priest Don Stipe Perkov, who was born in the main house and whose family have been masters of the property for several generations. The farmstead consists of a 300-year-old main building where visitors can see traditional textiles, a restored kitchen and an antiquated-looking rakija still. On the opposite side of a terraced garden are several outbuildings that were acquired by the family later, holding a small museum of church silverware and a picture gallery of works donated by contemporary Croatian artists. For more information see Agritourism on page 51. Primošten Vineyards The best of Šibenik county’s velvety Babić wine comes from the vineyards ranged across the hills around Primošten, a geometric cluster of small rectangular plots owned by individual local families. With each of these rectangular parcels surrounded by a dry-stone wall, the vine-bearing hillside terraces look strikingly decorative when seen from a distance, and are somewhat appropriately described as the “stone lace of Primošten” in local tourist literature. These terraces are the result of generations of back-breaking toil: the rocks that cover the local landscape had to be laboriously broken up in order to create cultivable patches of land. Primošten’s oldest vineyards probably date from the 16th century, although extra impetus to their development was provided by post-World-War-II land redistribution, when the area around the Kremik Gulf southwest of town was divided up and shared out among the locals. Over the course of ten years hillside terraces were built, fields were cleared and dividing walls were erected with geometrical precision, producing the unique vineyard landscape that can be seen today. Such is its beauty that the Croatian government is considering putting the Primošten Vineyards forward as a candidate for inclusion on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

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Best way to admire the vineyards is to head for Kremik yachting marina, which lies at the bottom of several terraced slopes. Several foot- and bicycle paths allow visitors to explore the landscape at close quarters. Primošten Tourist Board Trg Josipa Biskupa Arnerića 2, tel. (+385-22) 57 11 11, tz-primosten@si.htnet.hr, www.tz-primosten.hr. Q June Open 08:00 - 20:00. July September 30 Open 08:00 - 22:00. October - May 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Rogoznica Southernmost of Šibenik County’s seaside resorts is Rogoznica, an attractive island village joined to the mainland by a 100-metre-long bridge. With a huddle of stone houses rising above a palm-splashed Riva, it’s an undeniably attractive spot, and the Frapa marina on the opposite side of the bay has made it a hugely popular destination with the yachting crowd. Situated on the western fringe of the village, Frapa is open to outsiders, with a central semicircular building holding restaurants, bars and a nightclub. Just behind the marina is Zmajevo Oko (“Eye of the Dragon”), a crater-like salt-water lake surrounded by grey cliffs. North of the marina is the Gradina peninsula, boasting a significant stretch of pebble beach backed by dense pines. Rogoznica Tourist Board Obala Kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-22) 55 92 53, rogoznica@tz-rogoznica.hr, www.tz-rogoznica.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June 15 - August 31 Open 08:00 21:00.

Wine Tasting Bibich Winery Plastovo bb, Skradin, tel. (+385)

091 123 65 01, vinabibich@vip.hr. Famous for producing high-quality Plavina and Shiraz reds alongside several characterful blended wines, Bibich winery is the site of a wine-tasting room where you can taste and buy a bottle or two. You can also buy travarica (herb-flavoured brandy), local honey, and speciality cheese from the island of Pag. QOpen by prior arrangement. A Kod Bepice Put murve 1, Primošten. A dark stonelined wine cellar with a pair of street-facing wooden benches outside, this is the place to try local Babić wine served direct from the barrel while nibbling away at a platter of pršut slices or a mound of fried whitebait. Bottles of the red stuff are also on sale. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

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National parks Kornati. Croatia is a country full of spectacular maritime landscapes, and the Kornati Islands represent one of the most bewitching of the lot. An archipelago comprising roughly 150 islands, the largely uninhabited Kornati are famous for exuding a barren, bleak mystique. Most of the islands are arid affairs, with a thin covering of tawny-brown grass punctuated by limestone outcrops and spiky shrubs. Many of the islands on the western side of the archipelago feature spectacular cliffs, rising some 80 metres above sea level in the case of those on the island of Klobučar, while man-made features include the dry-stone walls that streak across age-old pasturelands. Lapped by clear seas, the islands constitute an area of extraordinary natural beauty, and 89 of them fall under the protection of the Kornati National Park, founded in 1980. Eighty percent of the Kornati are privately owned by families from Murter, who use the islands to graze sheep, plant olives or harvest honey - as well as fishing in the seafood-rich surrounding waters. The islands no longer have a permanent population, although parts of the archipelago are seasonally inhabited by Murter shepherds, marina staff serving the summer influx of yachting folk, or tourists seeking complete seclusion. The Gospa od Tarca church on the island of Kornat is still the focus of an annual pilgrimage on the first Sunday of July, when the population of Murter heads for the island in a festive flotilla of boats. Boat tours of the Kornati islands are available throughout the summer, most departing at around 08:00 and returning towards 18:00. Almost all of the tourist agencies in Murter and Vodice offer these trips - expect to pay 250-300Kn per person, including lunch on one of the islands and maybe the odd glass of wine on the journey back. These day trips provide a general idea of the Kornati landscape, but to appreciate them to the full you most definitely need your own boat - and a couple of days to spare. For yachtspeople, ACI marinas exist on the island of Piškera, inside the boundaries of the Park, and on Žut, just outside it. Yachtsfolk will have to buy an entrance ticket to the national park, sold by the Kornati National Park office in Murter, marinas in the islands themselves, or park rangers patrolling the Kornati waters by dinghy. Entrance ticket cost 150 - 1500kn depending on the size of the boat. Kornati National Park, Butina 2, Murter, tel. (+38522) 43 57 40, kornati@kornati.hr, www.kornati.hr. Krka. Much of the landscape inland from Šibenik is shaped by the Krka, the 75km-long river that rises in the arid karst near Knin before flowing towards the Adriatic via a spectacular series of rugged canyons, azure lakes and tumbling waterfalls. The valley’s most dramatic stretches, between Skradin and Knin, fall under the protection of the Krka National Park (Nacionalni park Krka), which is visited by an average of 700,000 people a year. Šibenik In Your Pocket Sibenik 2.indd 60

About 90% of these visitors never get any further than Skradinski buk (the most dramatic of seven sets of rapids within the park), whose foaming waters are reproduced on the cover of many a tourist brochure. However there is much more to the Krka than Skradinski buk, especially in the upper (northern) reaches of the park, where visitor facilities and trekking routes are only now being developed. Fauna in the park includes roe deer, wild boar, and the more elusive wolves and badgers. The rocky sides of the valley play host to various communities of bats, who play an important role in eating mosquitoes and other irritating waterside insects. It’s also an area rich in historical resonances, with ruined fortresses recalling the region’s erstwhile status as a disputed borderland between warring empires, and waterside monasteries providing evidence of a rich spiritual culture. Visiting the park There are four main entrance points to the park. The first is the town of Skradin (Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00) where the National Park Information Centre sells tickets, provides brochures, and contains an educative audio-visual display detailing the flora and fauna of the park. There is also a boat service (hourly in season) from Skradin to Skradinski buk. The second is Lozovac (Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00), on the plateau above the Krka, from where you can descend to Skradinski buk either on foot (20min) or via shuttle bus. The third is Roški slap (June - September 30 Open 09:00 - 18:00), although the road is narrow and there is not much parking space. The fourth is at Burnum (Open 10:00 - 18:00) on the road from Kistanje towards Knin. (During the other months please check the Park’s Web site or give them a call to check opening hours.) Tickets (30 - 95kn adults, children 7 - 14, 20 - 70kn) can be bought at the National Park Information Centre in Skradin or from the entrance points described above. The ticket price includes rides on the national park’s shuttle boats from Skradin to Skradinski buk, but does not include travel on excursion boats heading further north into the park - these must be paid for separately. Skradinski buk Most popular part of the park is Skradinski buk, where the Krka flows over a series of waterfalls and rapids formed by the gradual build up of dam-like barriers of travertine, the limestone sediment that settles on branches, grasses and moss to form a solid substance. This is very much an ongoing process, with Skradinski buk’s travertine barriers growing and changing shape at a rate of 1-2mm per year. The travertine at Skradinski buk has created 17 principal falls, each of which is made up of multiple cataracts. The place gets its name from the Croatian word buka (“racket”), a reference to the noise generated by the water rushing over the rapids.

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ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY

Skradinski buk was once a milling settlement at which the rushing waters of the Krka were harnessed to power a variety of machines. Ten of the stone mill buildings have been restored, and visitors can see working examples of flour and fulling mills, alongside displays of traditional costumes and agricultural implements. Just below the mills is the Imperial Belvedere (Carski belveder), a small balustrade lookout point built for visiting Habsburg monarch Franz Joseph I in 1875. A little further downstream are the ruins of Jaruga 1, the hydroelectric power station built by Šibenik mayor Ante Šupuk and brother Marko Šupuk in 1895. It was the second AC-generating hydroelectric project in the world, the Forbes dam on the Niagara Falls having been completed just months previously. The Šupuks formed a private company in order to build and manage the power station, the first of its kind in Dalmatia. When Šupuk died in 1904, the whole of Šibenik’s electric lighting was switched off in his honour. Immediately downstream from Jaruga 1 is a wooden bridge that crosses a wide pool of river water right below the biggest of Skradinski buk’s waterfalls. This broad stretch of shallow water is the one part of the National Park where you are allowed to swim, although a barrier of plastic buoys prevents bathers from getting right up close to the waterfall itself. On the other side of the river is a network of trails leading up and down the hillside beside many of Skradin’s tumbling streams, many on raised wooden boardwalks built on stilts to keep your feet dry during bouts of seasonal flooding. Kljućica Hovering above the river Čikola, which flows into the Krka just upstream from Skradinski Buk, Ključica Fortress is part of the fortification system developed by the medieval Nelipić family, who controlled the trade routes between Šibenik and Bosnia and levied duty on goods transported in both directions. The Nelipić clan’s tight grip on commerce was much resented by others in the region, and Kljućica was sacked by forces from Šibenik in the mid-14th century. Subsequently occupied by the Ottomans, it fell into disuse when they were driven out by the Venetians in 1684.

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Visovac Monastery Boat trips from Skradinski buk head up the river into the socalled Visovac Lake, a stretch of the Krka which measures 800m from shore to shore at its widest points. Grey-green hills rise steeply on either side. Main destination for the excursion boats is Visovac Monastery, picturesquely located on an island 7km upstream from Skradinski buk. A Franciscan foundation has existed on this site since at least the 14th century, although the church we see today was built in 1576. Long a centre of Catholic Christianity in the region, it nowadays holds a seminary, as well as being the site of a much-visited church. A decree issued by Ottoman Sultan Mehmet IV, returning Visovac to the Franciscans in 1674, is held in the monastery treasury. Upstream from Visovac, the ruins of Kamičak fortress can be seen on the cliffs above the eastern shore. Again built by the Nelipić family in the 13th century, it was demolished by the conquering Ottomans after 1522.

Franciscan Monastery of the Mother of Mercy

Drinovci, tel. (+385-22) 77 57 30, www.visovac.hr.June - August 31 Open 09:45 - 15:45. Boat tickets 100kn.

The Museum Collection of the Franciscan Monastery at Visovac Drinovci, tel. (+385-22) 77 57 30, www.visovac.hr.

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Roški slap Excursion boats continue from Visovac to Roški slap 5km north, a barrier of foaming waterfalls and cataracts that marks the northern end of Visovac lake. Roški slap is also accessible by car from the west (via minor roads from Đevrske) or the east (via minor roads from Pakovo Selo), although parking space is limited when you get there. As at Skradinski buk, there is a restored millers’ settlement beside the river, with displays of milling and weaving techniques inside. Krka Monastery and beyond Located on the western bank of the Krka about 10km north of Roški slap (and accessible via minor road from Kistanje), the Monastery of the Archangel Michael is arguably the best known of Croatia’s handful of Orthodox monasteries. It was founded in 1345 thanks to an endowment by Princess Jelena, a sister of the Serbian Tsar Dušan who married a Croatian prince of the Šubić family. Famous for its Romanesque bell tower and arcaded cloister, the monastery is also known for its early-Christian catacombs - although they are not always open to visitors. Roughly opposite the monastery is another of the Nelipić cliff-top fortresses, Bogočin. North of the monastery lies the most dramatic stretch of the river, a narrow winding canyon with sheer sides. Perched on cliffs on either side of the canyon are two of the park’s most dramatic fortresses, Nečven to the east, and Trošenj immediately opposite to the west. Trošenj once served as the power base of the Croatian Šubić family, although the Ottomans subsequently turned it into a gaol. It was notorious as a place of execution - throwing offenders from high windows being the favoured form of capital punishment.

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Burnum Just outside the park’s western boundary, the road from Kistanje to Knin forges across maquis-covered karst, passing the site of Burnum, the 1st-century Roman legionary camp that subsequently developed into a civilian settlement. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post. A footpath from Burnum to the Manojlovac rapids, deep down in the Krka canyon to the east, is currently in the development stages. The Burnum Archaeological Collection Puljane, Oklaj, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 53, info@npk.hr, www. npkrka.hr. May - September 30 Open 10:00 - 18:00. October - April 30 Open by prior arrangement. Puljane Two kilometres north of Burnum, a turn-off to the east twists its way down into the canyon of the Krka, crossing the river at Brljansko lake and climbing up onto the plateau on the opposite side. A signed exit leads to an Archeological display devoted to finds from nearby Burnum opened in 2010. There is also a look-out point affording fine views of the canyon. Public Institute of Krka National Park D-2, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, Šibenik, (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr, Open 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Krka National Park Info Centre Šibenska bb, Skradin, (+385-22) 77 16 88, www.npkrka.hr, June - August 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00. September, October Open 09:00 - 18:00. November - May 31 Open 09:00 - 16:00..

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Ĺ IBENIK KNIN COUNTY

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15.1.1873. D/E-2 17 buntovnika C-2 29. listopada 1918. L-2 3. studenog 1944. M/N-2 7. Omelića F-1/2 8. Dalmatinske brigade O-2/3 A. Cesarca M-2 A. Mihanovića M-2 Andrije Kačića C-2 Ante Starčevića F-1, L-3 Ante Šupuka L/M-3 Ante Trlaje Antiča H-1/I-2 Antuna Vrančića D-2 B. Fulgosi K-2 B. Petranovića D-1 Bana Ivana Mažuranića K-1 Bana Josipa Jelačića K-1 Benkovačka C-2 Biogradska J-2 Biskupa Fosca E-1/2

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Jerka Machieda L-2 Josipa J. Strossmayera N-3 Jurja Dalmatinca B-3 Jurja Šigoroća D-2 Južna magistrala P-4/5 Kamenarska M-3 Kaprijska K-2 Karla Vipauca L-2/3 Karlovačka N-3 Klaića L-2 Kninska C-1 Kornatska J-2 Kralja Tomislava D-2, K-3 Kralja Zvonimira C-1, J-1/2, K-3 Kraljice Jelene D-1 Krševana C/D-2 Krste Stošića K-3 Mali prolaz C-2 Mandalinskih žrtava N-3 Mariborska M-2

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Put Smričnjaka I-2 Put Splita F-2 Put Tanaje K-2 Put tvrđavama K-2 Put Vida H-1 Put Vuka Mandušića K-2 Riječka L-3 Rogoznička L-2 Fra Nikole Ružića D-2 S. Macure L-3 S. S. Kranjčevića L-2 Sarajevska F-2, L-3 Sedmog kontinenta K-2 Sopaljska J-1 Splitski put L-3 Srednja magistrala K/L/M/N/O-2 Srimska A-2 Stankovačka F-1, L-3 Stara cesta K-2 Starog kazališta D-1

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Zadarska K-2 Zagorska M-3 Zagrađe A-2, K-2/3 Zagrebačka D-1, K/L-3 Zapadna magistrala H/I/J-1 Zatonska A-2 Zlarinska D-2

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Južna magistrala SPLIT

6/18/2012 4:46:23 PM

P O N M L K J I H

Sibenik 2.indd 67

6/18/2012 4:46:30 PM

Sibenik 2.indd 68

6/18/2012 4:46:36 PM


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