Making The Most Of You: Fashion > Couture
THE PALACE CALLED
Inverness based Couturier, Sandra Murray MBE
Reading Sarah Burton’s recent account of how the Royal wedding commission came about, brought me a distinct sense of deja-vu. “The Palace called” Burton recollects, followed by a collaboration with the future bride, then follow-up appointments including a succession of clandestine toings and froings to a hideout in Wales. All top secret. My Palace call came on 29 April, 1999. When this happens out of the blue, what one doesn’t
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suspect, is that the Palace has already done the forensic. They know about you. My commission was to create an ensemble for HM The Queen for the Opening of the Scottish Parliament. Given carte-blanche, meant I had to provide the inspirational storyboards for the event. I chose the Scottish thistle and the Isle of Skye tartan. Meetings at Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle were in secret. Fast forward to a specially dyed mauve Italian silk and wool fitted frockcoat, worn over a pale green wool crepe dress overlaid with French silver and khaki green Paisley designed lace. I might add, all from the same French lace source as the Burton frock. This was complemented by a Bespoke hat by Royal Milliner Philip Somerville, decked in pheasant plumes. Over her shoulder, she wore the Isle of Skye wool tartan plaid in cloth by Lochcarron, and in place with the Oban brooch from her private collection. Her mauve cotton gloves were specially dyed, the petite silk handbag just big enough for her handkerchief and spectacles, and finally her Bespoke bronze silk taffeta shoes, made by her Chiltern Street cobbler. The Royal wedding trousseau, on the other hand, was a collaboration. Miss Catherine had already set her heart on the whole Grace Kelly look, having seen the real thing in the V&A exhibition in summer 2010. Who could blame her? Sarah Burton’s task was to personalize this Kelly signature, and brought in the Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court Palace to embellish the silk satin gazar. They paintstakingly appliquéd the lace onto the gazar, so that the Burton-led secret team of cutters, dressmakers, fitters and needlewomen, each of them contributing to the sum of its parts. On the finale outcome, Burton rightfully received the world’s admiration and praise, emphasizing it was on behalf of the team. [continues...]