dish du jour
great dining experiences » by Lois Levine
Cultured Dining Here is an example of great New York City multitasking: Take in a splendid meal while also enjoying a splendid museum. This is the idea behind Caffè Storico (below) at the New-York Historical Society. The restaurant pulls off cheery and elegant simultaneously, while throwing in some culture: bright yellow banquettes, stunning gold chandeliers and white shelves displaying 19th-century china from the museum’s collection. Dishes such as whipped baccala and octopus soppressata are delicate and well-seasoned, and a slow-roasted chicken is accented with sautéed fennel and chanterelle mushrooms. A fine museum, a great meal, a perfect day. » Caffè Storico, 170 Central Park West., 212.485.9211
Italian Contrasts There is a charm to finding an Old World Italian restaurant with a New World spin. Abboccato offers a traditional Italian décor: The center of the restaurant is anchored with a handsome wine case, while large leather booths make for spacious comfort when dining. On the menu, contemporary Italian dishes (grilled yellowfin tuna, wild mushroom flatbread) are offered alongside choices for the Italian traditionalist (caprese salad, veal saltimbocca, nonna’s meatballs and a wide variety of pastas). Try mixing old and new for dinner: Pair a lemony salmon tartare with tagliatelle and Bolognese meat sauce, a harmony of light and hearty, as is a roasted beet salad with a pan-seared veal chop, accompanied by caramelized Brussels sprouts, roasted tomatoes and pancetta. For dessert, indulge in a classic Italian tiramisu with a modern pear martini and you will have pleased old and new palates happily. » Abboccato, 136 W. 55th St., 212.265.4000
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IN New YORK | august 2013 | innewyork.com
0813_IN_DISH_LO.indd 10
Downtown Daniel When I think of a-let’s-get-super-dressed-upand-go-out-for-a-truly-fine dining experience, I think of Daniel, Daniel Boulud’s classic haute Upper East Side restaurant. So, seeing another side to the chef/entrepreneur after visiting DBGB Kitchen and Bar was a surprising delight indeed. The Downtown restaurant defines industrial chic: lots of steel and dark woods, copper kitchenware, and bottles of wine, aged vinegars and dry goods all displayed on wooden shelves that frame the main dining room. The restaurant is known for its pungently fresh market oysters (left), housemade sausages and more than 20 varieties of beer (including after-dinner brews!) along with spectacular burgers like “The Piggie” (pulled pork and beef with jalapeño mayonnaise). This is formidable chow from a formidable chef, but at DBGB, feel free to go casual. » DBGB Kitchen and Bar, 299 Bowery, 212.933.5300
for details on these and other restaurants, turn to dining (p. 70) and visit innewyork.com
7/10/13 4:47:42 PM