INK Magazine Summer 2010
INK Magazine Summer 2010 "A Delicate Issue"
A DELICATE ISSUE INK Magazine presents s u m m e r // 2 0 1 0 v o l u m e 11 , i s s u e 11 kane longden, charlotte lin, carolina engman, olya ivanova, matthew burditt, summer play, johana kim, the flow addendum, molly bright hughes + more art, fashion, and photography featuring page 1 page 3 page 5 EDITOR IN CHIEF John Troxel FOUNDERS John Troxel, Aaliyeh Astar & Mike Bailey-Gates CREATIVE DIRECTOR Promise Newell FASHION DEPARTMENT Department Head: Alex Taitauge -- Writers: Monica Merel, Tracey Matthewson, Liz Osban, Taylor Bryant, Rebecca Arenas -- Columnists: Carolina Engman, Joe Gecks -- Styling Editor: Tori McBride -- Contributing Stylists: Tess P.B., Shu Han Huang, Sarah Morten, Rachel Holland, Sharna Newton, Alexandra Loeb, Jeong Hwan Choi, Amanda Tang, Charlotte Stokes, Jade Leung, Deanna Palkowski @ Liz Bell Agency, Katya Bond, Isaiah Whitmore HAIR & MAKEUP Emma Knight, Alicia Mew, Sarah Morten, Charlotte Stagg, Jayde Chorlton, Clare Barber, Jessica Jean Myers, Kanako Yoshida, Yoshi Taka, Jessica Wilson, Brit Cochran, Alice Coloriti, Hila Karamand, Eugene Davis, Jenna Kuchera, Melissa Leach, Megan Harrison, Negar Hooshmand @ Liz Bell Agency, Onna Chan, Daniel Lehenbauer, Dima Dyshlevsky CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS, DIRECTORS, BLOGGERS & ASSISTANTS Tess P.B., Lonny James Huff, Taylor Wilder, Tessa Bohman, Laura Mercier, Cornellison, Simon Chong, Katya Bond, Chelsey Scheffe PHOTOGRAPHY DEPARTMENT Department Head: Joy Newell -- Staff Photographers: Alicia Vega, Chrissie White, John Troxel, Chloe Scheffe -- Contributing Photographers: Liz Mahoney, Ellie Harvey, Asli Kolcu, Kane Longden, Hanna Kristina, Jakob Axelman, Zach Hertzman, Johana Kim, Emily Tebbetts, Raffaele Grosso, Lorenzo Merighi, Sarah Louise Johnson, Zenaida Kwong, Jo Duck, Matthew Burditt, Kira Bucca, Matthew Wilson, Daniel Lehenbauer, Olya Ivanova, Charlotte Lin MODELS Cover Girl: Baska @ HOP Cover Boy: Kevin @ HOP -- It Girl: Molly Bright Hughes -- Anna C., John Lozowski @ Expressions, Jessica Morfey, Candice Nemec, Claar Ennis, Moe Peterson, Meijia Shao, Bethany @ MandP Models, Megan Jones, Tiiu @ Sapphire Model Management, Katherine @ Oxygen Model Management, Laura @ Oxygen Model Managemnt, Vali @ Red Model Management, Annie King, Claudia @ BMG, Danielle Knudson @ Sutherland Models, Chloe Robertson, Robyn Credgington-Jones, Jeremy Winter, Thomas Huntley, Jonny Rankin, Greta @ Models 1, Rosie Dent, Natalia Mysnyk, Brooke Tobin, Danielle Shue, Petra Ford @ Steward Talent, Patrick Henderson @ Chosen Model Management, Gemma Janes @ Profile Model Management, Jasmine Faye, Nicole @ Mode Models, Renee @ Viviens, Alex G @ NEXT Canada, Rory @ Liz Bell Agency, Ellen @ NEXT, Kate S. @ Elite Models Toronto, Cadyn Ray, Katya Budnik, Sarah, Chelsey Scheffe, Isaiah Whitmore MUSIC DEPARTMENT Department Head: Cody Bralts GRAPHIC DESIGN DEPARTMENT Department Head: Chloe Scheffe INK Magazine is always looking for photographers, stylists, designers and makeup artists to work with! Shoot us a message! inkmagemail@gmail. com | All contributors retain copyright to their work. Feel free to contact our contributors about their work, or to send us a letter. We love to hear your feedback! | Have a suggestion, idea, or general something you want to see in INK? Don't hesitate to tell us! email@example.com FROM THE EDITOR DEAR READERS, When Anna de Rijk emerged on the catwalk, opening the Burberry Prosum S/S 2010 show, the essentials of Summer were officially confirmed: a simple color palette, with detailed twists and draping echoed infinitely that less is more. Detailing and intricate embellishments projected a season in which the jewelry is built into the actual garment, as shoes from the likes of McQueen proved to define craftsmanship and show that the thought is being put into fashion. It's all about the details this issue, so take time to digest the content. It was fully shown that minimalism was a concept which many designers this season clung to, and along with them we have too. We've been gleaning out what we feel is not needed, and paying closer attention to the details. All of our contributors and staff went above and beyond this issue, and it's apparent. Thank you to our staff, to our contributors, and of course to our readers... and enjoy INK's A Delicate Issue. Keep Creating, page 7 John Troxel | Editor In Chief CONTENTS page 206 page 110 page 76 page 160 on the cov er Photography John Troxel Models Baska & Kevin @ HOP Clothing Tori McBride, Fischer page 4 4 page 32 page 122 | cov er shoot page 10 page 146 page 168 ARTICLES 7 10 14 17 18 20 Letter From The Editor The Big Three Charlie & The Photo Factory Boat Shoes Fischer Dear Diary 56 60 118 140 202 206 88 94 100 110 122 136 146 152 Armor Jewelry Embellishments Camel Crush House Of Isaac Andrew Anna's Goodbye Meet Molly Bright Hughes, INK's New It Girl 212 216 224 226 Crew Neck Snoflake Shop INK Pay Attention To Bora F E AT U R E S 26 32 44 54 64 70 76 84 Summer Wonder Runaways White Knight Soft Pop Generation Love Twists Of Time Shoulder Appeal Silk Suburbia Accent Neutral Charge Petra & Patrick Secret Garden Summer Play Gulia Azzalin Home Alone, Dressing Fancy La Mode Delicate 156 160 168 178 182 188 192 218 Summertime Vintage Fading Light In Motion Strange Days The Flow Addendum Dreary June Rachel Gilbert Dream With Me on t he cov er page 10 THE BIG THREE Photography Kane Longden Hair, Makeup & Styling Sarah Morten Model Megan Jones Summer in Miami can only mean one thing: fewer clothing options. It becomes so unbearably hot that going Bluefly seems to be the best plan of escape from the excruciating heat. But please, for the sake of everyone, don't strip yourself nude and walk around town. There are other options! By Monica Merel CONSIDER INVESTING IN A DRESS THAT IS MEANT FOR AN ICE-SKATER on t he cov er page 11 on t he cov er page 12 (1) Keep your outfits light! Don't wear a heavy top or dress because once you are out the door often there is no turning back. Consider investing in a dress that is meant for an ice-skater. They're airy, flexible and compliment any body. Just pick colors that flatter your body the most. I have come to find that bright and basic colors look good on any skin type, such as blue, red, and green. Also, they always look puttogether and do not need much accessorizing, which eliminates some of the weight on your body. (2) Minimize accessories! Over accessorizing goes out of season down in Miami during the summer because they become too heavy to be bearable! You do not want jewelry to be the cause of your discomfort. You can always choose between two accessories, like a necklace, earrings, a bracelet or rings for your outfit instead of doing all four. That way you avoid the pitfall of cluttered accessories, and minimize all that plastic and metal that will boil in the summer sun. Instead invest in some pieces of jewelry that work alone, not grouped, so you can always have a fully realized look without overdoing it. Also, you can play up the metallic within the outfit itself. Find a top or dress that already has some shimmer to it, that way when the sun reflects on that strip of silver you'll be shining. Minimize to maximize! (3) Keep nails fresh! This is one of the easiest ways to look together without any effort: invest in a fun nail color that you adore. Remember to keep the color fun and most importantly adore it! I typically choose a shade of purple for my nails. To really spice things up alternate colors between hands and feet. Who ever said they have to be the same color? And if you want to be more dramatic you can either add glitter to your nails or buy the polish with glitter already in it. These simple rules will make summer days longer and fresher. on t he cov er page 13 CHARLIE & THE PHOTO FACTORY Photography Charlotte Lin Styling Eve Ferguson Hair & Makeup Veronique Nadeau Model Veronique Nadeau The slapping, cold wind threatens to topple the model off the pier and into the dark, roaring water behind her. The equipment is being thrown around, the crew is thrown off balance as they try to help out in any way possible, and fashion photographer Charlotte Lin's commands are drowned out by the wind's roar. However, Lin is in control of the situation and quickly runs to the model to give her directions and in less than ten seconds has the shot she was looking for. Under such harsh conditions, it is hard to believe that Lin has only been working as a fashion photographer for six months. She graduated from the University of Toronto in 2009 with a degree in Ecology and Evolutionary Biology and Physical Geography, and moved to Quebec City to continue her master's under renowned plant ecologist Serge Payette at Universit� Laval. At first hoping to work on matters of global warming, she eventually realized that her calling was in photography after a two-month research trip to the Arctic Circle. "I had tried photography before leaving for the arctic...[and] suddenly I was in the north with no internet, no phone, and no camera... I missed photography a lot, and [since] I've returned, I've been doing it ever since", she explains. Since her trip, she has put science aside and is focusing solely on art, using all of her time to churn out photo-spreads like a one-woman factory. Lin concentrates greatly on both the lighting By Rebecca Arenas on t he cov er page 14 and the editing process of photography and is making a name for her style. Her photos take you into a make-believe, surreal, fantasy world, where everything seems to be larger than life or brighter than life, more like it. The colors in her photos jump out greatly and immediately remind you of the editing styles of Tim Walker and the French film Amelie. Even though she is being published all over the world, and working full-time as a photographer, she realizes she still has a lot to learn. Just recently she had been contacted by photographer Steven Silverstein who invited her to come with him to Paris Fashion week. "He called me from LA and talked to me for forty minutes about my work... I actually wanted to yellow cami simons flower simons on t he cov er page 15 on t he cov er page 16 cry", she explains. Nonetheless, she feels that she is not ready for the Haute Couture world but is sure she will end up there one day. Even with success, Lin is struggling to make it while enjoying the ride. She dropped her master's to dedicate her life to the photography world. "My parents think it's an impulsive decision to drop my masters [but] I want to do art and I choose art. It was a struggle because I still like science. It's hard, but I need to follow my heart and passion, and it's the best decision I've ever made". CHARLOTTELINPHOTOS.CARBONMADE.COM white shirt zara hat h&m BOAT SHOES ARE IN AND YOU SHOULD WEAR THEM BECAUSE OF AN ARTICLE YOU READ BOAT SHOES This article is about boat shoes. Already, I have referenced myself as the writing authority on the subject, effectively breaking the fourth wall of journalistic prose, and communicated to you--the reader--the topic of the below. It is unnecessary to explain the function of the shoe--that is, shoes in general--and therefore can focus on the nautical aspects. A basic understanding of clothing articles has done some of my job for me, and common sense has rendered it silly of me to say that boat shoes were designed for use on boats. It is not silly, however, to point out that they are typically of canvas or leather make. This, I maintain, is sensible to note because of a disparity in water-resistance; I find myself flummoxed by this typicality--really, why canvas in water-heavy environs (the ocean, sea, lake, river, et cetera)? The rubber soles are cut in such a fashion as to increase traction on the often wet decks of varied floating vessels. This fashion of rubber cutting is called siping (not to be confused with the Chinese city) after, not surprisingly, a man with a similar name. Quite obviously the proliferators of said shoes were sailors. As the writer, I will 1) break the fourth wall again and 2) illuminate what is not obvious in relation to the shoes. Seamen are by no means fashion arbiters, but have influenced fashion beyond the aforementioned footwear. Navy and white. Horizontal stripes. Gold buttons. Et cetera. In this way, sailors are not arbiters, but victims of fashion--the transition in the 80's of boat shoes as vocational/practical attire to trendy feet protection being the primary evidence of this. As the reader, you may 1) accept this wall penetration and/or 2) feel smug about this less than obvious observation on nautical garb as you wear any rendition of it and/ or 3) immerse yourself in a timeless occupation in order to be similarly victimized/ahead of the curve. But you did not need to know all this for me--the unwalled writer/authority--to tell you--yes, you, the reader--that boat shoes are in and that you should wear them because of an article you read. By Alex Taitague page 17 FISCHER Photography John Troxel Model Annie King page 18 By Taylor Bryant Kristina Angelozzi, designer of Fischer Clothing, has a story that starts like many others. She was born in the suburbs of Baltimore but had big city style. In an effort to stand out from her peers, Kristina became a regular at the local thrift store. She altered her thrift store finds herself to add more originality. Angelozzi went on to college in Pennsylvania. There she earned her associates degree and learned to design. After college, Kristina started doing costumes for theatrical productions. She chose to dress the men in a more vintage style, foreshadowing her future design aesthetic. This costume design started Angelozzi's love of menswear. Kristina then attended Parson's to further her education in design. Post-Parson's, Angelozzi launched Fischer Clothing. Kristina draws on the city of New York for her design inspiration. She also enjoys the designs of Australian designer Karen Walker and appreciates the personal style of icon Claire McCardell. This inspiration culminates in a brand Angelozzi describes as laid back clothing for the older creative types. Fischer provides age appropriate clothing that still packs a punch. For the Spring 2010 season, Kristina found inspiration from the 1960's as well as modern French design. The Fall collection features a more American direction, drawing from the fashions of the 1920's, 1940's, and the style of a Belgian artist with hints of color for extra pizzazz. Though often inspired by time periods, Angelozzi is careful to keep her designs from becoming costume-y. Kristina succeeds in using subtle nuances to complete the overall look. Fischer Clothing is certainly a brand to watch. The clothes invoke a perfect balance of nostalgia and freshness, like your favorite black and white movie released in Technicolor. Experience this feeling for yourself at www.fischerclothing.com. THE CLOTHES INVOKE A PERFECT BALANCE OF NOSTALGIA AND FRESHNESS, LIKE YOUR FAVORITE BLACK AND WHITE MOVIE RELEASED IN TECHNICOLOR page 19 DEAR DIARY WHO? A 23-YEAR-OLD TREASURE-HUNTING PASTALOVING ROCK-BOHEMIAN GIRL WHO WORKS AS A FREELANCE STYLIST AND WRITER, AND RUNS A STYLE BLOG CALL FASHION SQUAD SMELL By Carolina Engman on t he cov er page 20 The swedish perfume hous e Byredo has an amazing rang e of lovely scen ts that are pe rfec for summer! FAVORITE JEWELRY This awesome ring holder from Urban Outfitters is perfect for keeping track of my favorites! DREAM CATCHERS In my bedroom window hangs a beautiful but slightly torn dream catcher that was a gift my brother . It reminds me to stay positive and never stop dreaming. BOOK ding start rea e time to r taken th 're in fo u nally ad it, yo I have fi aven't re h m. If you Shantara eat! a real tr e ct DRESS I'm madly in love with this sheer ivory dress with rope details along the arms by Martin Lamothe. on t he cov er page 21 on t he cov er page 22 RING I'm absolutely obsessed with this magenta hued little gem from Peace Images. SILK CAPE This beautiful raspberry pink silk cape is one of my most treasured vintage items. I found it in a tiny store in Barcelona and knew that we were meant for each other the second I saw it. According to the store owner it had been used at the opera in Barcelona back in the day, which makes it even more special to me. DESIGNER New Zealand-based label Ruby's S/S 10/11 collection is incredibly cute and I'm loving every single piece of it! RING MADNESS Pamela Love, will you marry me? TRAVEL last Right now I'm day dreaming about er's magical trip to Barcelona. summ Balmy nights, red wine, delicious food, beautiful harbours and amazing vintage. Take me back! SONG The Sound Of Silence by Simon and Garfunkel. Preferably accompanied by candle light, red win e and my boyfriend. on t he cov er page 23 on t he cov er page 24 SHOES Okay, so they're not Charles Anastase, but they look rad nontheless! Jeffrey Campbell Lita shoes, be mine! BAG sterpiece from One day this blue ma e, even if Schouler will be min Proenza I have to kill for it! DISPOSABLE CAMERAS Disposable cameras have a certain beauty around them with their honest portrait of reality. As an extra bonus, you don't have to retake a picture 100 times because someone doesn't like how they look. Disposable cameras for the win! FLOWERS o at a I found this gorgeous vintage silk kimon Francisco and it was love at first fleamarket in San no space sight. It's super light weight and takes up ! at all in my bag, perfect for summer nights FASHIONSQUAD.COM LACE MANIA At the moment I'm completely obsessed with lace and I find myself rummaging through every thrift store that crosses my path in search of the perfect lace piece. This dress is pretty darn close! on t he cov er VINTAGE KIMONO page 25 Forget red roses. Nothing says "I love you" like a fresh, beautiful bouquet of pink peonies. dress & tights topshop flower ribbon ellie harvey SUMMER WONDER Photography Ellie Harvey Makeup Jessica Wilson Model Rosie Dent dress topshop petticoat beyond retro flower ribbon ellie harvey page 27 dress arisa fukumoto petticoat beyond retro cape arisa fukumoto necklace (as headband) monsoon pompoms cordelia weston dress & shoes topshop flower ribbon ellie harvey page 29 page 30 dress & tights topshop petticoat beyond retro page 31 RUNAWAYS Photography Andrew Babarczy Styling Sheri-Ann Taulla Hair & Makeup Kate Blainey Models Ryder & Stacey @ Camerons beanie jesen black top mark pereira grey top fluxus pants jesen page 33 him beanie jesen black top mark pereira grey top fluxus pants jensen shoes apex ring toby jones her vintage bodysuit ruby red dress belt friend of mine shorts neuw shoes friend of mine socks stylist's own top carly hunter shorts insight vintage brooch hunted and collected vintage glasses ruby red dress page 35 him glasses moscot tie cherry tree road jeans darium shirt jensen her top jo baker leather pants friend of mine vintage bag ruby red dress boots stylist's own page 37 glasses nina ricci bodysuit friend of mine stockings voodoo pants jo baker brooch hunted and collected watch casio glasses moscot top darium chain belt cherry tree road jeans darium necklace toby jones page 39 him suit & tie from britten top chronicles of never her vintage fur ruby red dress earrings topshop dress mark pereira vintage watch cartier page 41 ANDREWBABARCZY.COM KATEBLAINEY.COM dress winter kate vintage belt ruby red dress page 43 WHITE KNIGHT LAYERS OF WHITE WITH ACCENTS OF GOLD PROVE TO BRIGHTEN EVEN THE DULLEST OF SUMMER DAYS PHOTOGRAPHY JO DUCK STYLING JADE LEUNG HAIR & MAKEUP MEGAN HARRISON MODEL RENEE @ VIVIENS page 45 gauze top joveeba sheer top above pants limedrop silver bangles mink on t he cov er page 46 that page sleeveless sheer shirt above cardigan e.s.s. white cutoff leggings nicola finetti sequin chain necklace house of baulch jewel ring with chain house of baulch this page sheer blouse above pleated skirt pamela usanto lace leggings stretsis, lady petrova collar hopeless hotel black choker (as bracelet) house of baulch on t he cov er page 47 page 48 white top body circle sleeve dress e.s.s. gold sequin bolero bebe sydney, lenko on t he cov er page 49 page 50 that page white top body circle sleeve dress e.s.s. gold sequin bolero bebe sydney, lenko box chain cuff, geo cuff house of baulch circular ring mink this page chiffon shirt staple, lenko lace bolero lady petrova sequin skirt joveeba lace leggings stretsis, lady petrova ivory diamond necklace house of baulch on t he cov er page 51 page 52 JODUCK.COM JADELEUNG.COM MEGANHARRISON.COM that page linen shirt limedrop dress body bandage skirt joveeba box chain cuff house of baulch rope knot necklace limedrop this page chiffon shirt staple, lenko lace bolero lady petrova sequin skirt joveeba lace leggings stretsis, lady petrova ivory diamond necklace house of baulch above www.alloftheabove.com.au body +613 9510 6150 e.s.s. www.ess-laboratory.com house of baulch www.houseofbaulch.com hopeless hotel +614 25 803 515 lady petrova +613 9650 6285 lenko boutique www.ilovelenko.com limedrop +612 9331 6252 mink +613 9826 5545 nicola finetti (jess scott agency) +613 9419 8169 joveeba (jess scott agency) +613 9419 8169 pamela usanto +614 30 842 448 All plants courtesy of Limedrop. Special thanks to Simon Chong for use of his bachelor pad. on t he cov er page 53 SOFT POP Photography Matthew Wilson Makeup Onna Chan Model Kate S. @ Elite Models Toronto foundation makeup for ever, face and body brow smashbox brow tech, taupe eye shadow benefit creaseless cream, r.s.v.p. velvet shadow, leggy eye liner benefit duo pencil, downtown brown mascara dior, show black blush smashbox blushrush, radiance lip gloss makeup for ever, glossy full #4 MATTHEWWILSONPHOTOGRAPHY.COM ONNACHAN.CA ELITEMODELS.COM foundation makeup for ever, face and body brow smashbox brow tech, taupe eye shadow benefit creaseless cream, r.s.v.p. velvet shadow, leggy eye liner makeup for ever, aqua black mascara dior, show black blush smashbox blushrush, radiance lip gloss revlon, va va violet gloss makeup for ever, glossy full #5 page 55 page 56 ARMOR JEWELRY Photography John Troxel Makeup Tori McBride Model Brooke Tobin When did you first start making jewelry? I started making stuff with my hands awhile back, but didn't start experimenting with jewelry until the summer of 2008. Any big stuff coming up? There are a few upcoming projects and You make everything by hand. How long does it take you? The production of each piece varies depending on how big the piece is, or how much detail is involved in probably ranges between collaborations, but it's all "hush hush". I can tell you that it will be grand, and can't wait to share it with everyone else. Be on the look out! Armor Jewelry is just starting. two hours or half a day. I try not to rush anything, to ensure that the quality is perfect. By John Troxel page 57 page 58 I TRY NOT TO RUSH ANYTHING, TO ENSURE THAT THE QUALITY IS PERFECT page 59 EMBELLISHMENTS ORNAMENTS ARE FOR CHRISTMAS. ACCESSORIES ARE FOR SUMMER Photography Hanna Kristina Styling Rachel Holland Hair & Makeup Charlotte Stagg Model Tiiu @ Sapphire Model Managment page 60 By Tracey Matthewson As the days warm up, there tends to be a growing inclination to begin shedding layers as opposed to piling them on--a seasonal psychology to exclude our accessories as the temperature rises. The bold patterns and soft details of this season's blouses and waistcoats just do not demand a barrage of necklaces to make up for any lost details. Somehow bracelets, necklaces, and earrings have become synonymous with Christmas ornaments, at least in my mind. This does not at all mean that I see myself or anyone else as a Christmas tree, but there is some research to be had in this respect... Besides the comparison works too well with Christmas in July to pass up. Actually, the whole analogy is just a ploy to support my growing observation that accessories are being left at home while their bare-wrist owners are being swept off to the beaches, leaving a string of jettisoned clothing in their wake just like ornaments that are tossed into boxes while the Christmas tree gets dragged to the dump in a trail of pine needles. To say these accessories will be packed away without a glimpse of sunlight until the wintertime, though, is definitely a stretch. What actually seems to be happening is not at all relevant to my ornament analogy; we've begun to trade a multitude of accessories for just a few functional items: minimalist bags that hold everything, one thick bangle instead of a wrist-full of them or a dainty ring, complimenting a delicate sun-kissed hand on the steering wheel of a car headed to the next summer adventure. striped jumpsuit the vintage generation jewelry jeremy hoye page 61 page 62 this page slip dress stylist's own lingerie urban outfitters jewelry jeremy hoye that page violet dusk jacket something else jewelry jeremy hoye WE'VE BEGUN TO TRADE A MULTITUDE OF ACCESSORIES FOR JUST A FEW FUNCTIONAL ITEMS: MINIMALIST BAGS THAT HOLD EVERYTHING, ONE THICK BANGLE INSTEAD OF A WRIST-FULL OF THEM page 63 GENERATION LOVE WE INVITED THE WINTER 2010 COVERGIRL BACK TO THE PAGES OF INK TO SHOW OFF SUMMER'S GREATEST BASIC TEES, NEW YORK CITY'S OWN GENERATION LOVE. XOXO Photography John Troxel Styling & Makeup Tori McBride Model Danielle Shue v-neck alligator burnout generation love page 65 super studded v-neck generation love exposed zipper tank generation love page 67 super studded v-neck generation love shoes j alexander v-neck alligator burnout generation love page 69 face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes face atelier lip rx in naked cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks benefit luminizer in moon beam yaby powder foundation in pf037 crc cream blush in flaunt lips face atelier lip rx in naked TWISTS OF TIME Photography Kira Bucca Hair & Makeup Jessica Jean Myers Model Ellen @ Next face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes benefit luminizer in moon beam m.a.c eyeshadow in vapour & coppering cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks yaby highlight powder in bronze benefit luminizer in moon beam lips face atelier lip gloss in peach page 71 page 72 face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes m.a.c. eyeshadow in vapour & coppering cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks nix'ie cream blush in sincerity yaby highlight powder in light crc cream blush in flaunt lips face atelier lip gloss in shiraz face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes face atelier lip rx in naked benefit luminizer in moon beam cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks m.a.c. strobe cream yaby blush in bl020 lips face atelier lip gloss in dianthus page 73 face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes benefit luminizer in moon beam m.a.c. eyeshadow in vapour cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks m.a.c. strobe cream yaby blush in bl023 crc cream blush in flaunt lips face atelier lip gloss in peach face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes yaby eyeshadow in maroonie m.a.c. eyeshadow in vapour & coppering cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks nix'ie cream blush in sincerity yaby highlight powder in light lips m.a.c. lip glass in lychee luxe page 75 on t he cov er page 76 top stella mccartney, holt renfrew $1,995 S shoulder appeal photogr a ph y m at t h e w bu r di t t l i z be l l ag e nc y ag e nc y | s t y l i n g d e a n n a pa l k o w s k i @ | h a ir & m a k eu p neg a r hooshm a nd @ liz bell | models a lex @ n e xt c a n a da , rory @ l i z be l l ag e nc y on t he cov er page 77 him top mickelli orbe shirt deluxe junk jacket stephen schneider, gravity pope $450 shorts fred perry, the block $175 shoes john fluevog $199 her top mickelli orbe skirt alexander wang, gravity pope $480 shoes alexander mcqueen, holt renfrew $1,295 socks stylist's own necklace arielle de pinto, gravity pope $395 top stella mccartney, holt renfrew $1,995 skirt something else, nouvelle nouvelle $112 shoes miu miu, holt renfrew $520 on t he cov er page 79 top preen gravity pope $525 top mandula $345 skirt mandula $580 belt mandula $320 bracket woodlands $50 him top deluxe junk cardigan j. lindenberg, boys co $225 pants cheap monday, gravity pope $75 shoes john fluecog $199 belt hugo boss, boys co $135 necklaces sleep standing up, fin rosary $230 bow feather $180 her top preen gravity pope $525 top mandula $345 skirt mandula $580 belt mandula $320 shoes camilla skovgaard, holt renfrew $795 bracket woodlands $50 on t he cov er page 81 him shirt folk, boysco $ 238 jeans model's own belt insight, nouvelle nouvelle $35 shoes hugo boss, gravity pope $425 her top stella mccartney, holt renfrew $1,995 skirt something else, nouvelle nouvelle $112 shoes miu miu, holt renfrew $520 top elizabeth & james, holt renfrew $295 skirt deluxe junk shoulder pads k. brower, dream boutique $65 on t he cov er page 83 SILK Photography Daniel Lehenbaur Makeup Daniel Lehenbaur Model Cadyn Ray page 85 the beginning | spring 2010 85 page 87 dress zara jacket forte forte, gravity pope necklaces blue ruby SUBURBIA ACCENT Photography Zenaida Kwong Styling Charlotte Stokes for NOBASURA Makeup Jenna Kuchera for NOBASURA Hair Melissa Leach for NOBASURA Model Nicole @ Mode Models top mcginn lynn steven scarf sammy lynn steven shoes chie mihara, gravity pope sunglasses cheap monday, gravity pope socks vintage underwear vintage bracelets blue ruby page 89 page 90 top peter jensen, gravity pope shorts used belt used ring blue ruby top peter jensen, gravity pope poncho used shorts used belt used ring blue ruby page 91 page 92 dress gary graham, gravity pope GRAVITYPOPE.COM LYNNSTEVEN.COM ZARA.COM BLUERUBY.COM dress gary graham, gravity pope tights forte forte, gravity pope shoes vialis, gravity pope bracelet blue ruby page 93 laura dress (worn as top) h&m skirt american apparel tights miss selfridge bracelet new look shoes primark katherine cropped vest beyond retro shirt american apparel necklace accessorize shoes primark NEUTRAL CHARGE Photography Sophie Ellen Lachowycz Styling Sharna Newton Makeup Jayde Chorlton, Clare Barber Hair Jayde Chorlton Models Laura & Katherine @ Oxygen Model Management hat beyond retro bodysuit american apparel page 95 page 96 flower headband loulou loves you bustier topshop shirt american apparel skirt h&m shoes primark tights falke necklace accessorize bracelet freedom page 97 dress beyond retro shoes primark belt stylist's own jewelry freedom shirt american apparel shorts beyond retro belt h&m shoes primark necklace martine wester laura shirt american apparel skirt h&m shoes primark tights falke necklace accessorize bracelets freedom ring martine wester katherine bodysuit miss selfridge skirt american apparel headbands primark ring freedom skirt american apparel cropped vest beyond retro necklace accessorize page 99 him jeans vintage shirt gap belt ragstock her chiffon maxi dress j alexander jean jacket vintage boots frye PETRA & PATRICK Photography John Troxel Styling Tori McBride Models Petra Ford @ Stewart Talent, Patrick Henderson @ Chosen Model Managment page 101 layered chiffon top brandy godsil cropped trench vintage shorts fischer jewelry j alexander beater pins & needles khaki shorts vintage page 103 him jeans vintage shirt gap belt ragstock her chiffon maxi dress j alexander jean jacket vintage boots frye page 105 cropped tee & beater tori mcbride jeans vintage belt vintage him beater pins & needles khaki shorts vintage her leopard beater spanish moss vintage cropped trench vintage gladiator sandals frye antique jewelry new to you page 107 sweater vintage jeans vintage underwear freshpairs wardrobe courtesy of: the frye company freshpairs spanish moss vintage tori mcbride j alexander puella jewelry & bijoux fischer yu yu shiratori brandy godsil page 109 page 110 THE SECRET GARDEN Photography Sarah Louise Johnson Styling Amanda Tang Makeup Hila Karamand Hair Eugene Davis Retouching Cornellison, Sarah Louise Johnson Model Gemma Janes @ Profile Model Management page 111 page 112 page 113 page 114 page 115 page 116 page 117 CAMEL CRUSH INK'S CREATIVE DIRECTOR TALKS NEXT SEASON'S SILHOUETTE AND THE ONE COLOR ON EVERYONE'S BACK Photography Meijia Shao Model Meijia Shao page 118 By Promise Newell The off-runway scene at the Fall 2010 fashion shows displayed an alarming reality: in what would normally be a sea of stark, solemn, dreary tones muted with a washed up sensibility only lent to high profiles and straight-faced editors themselves, a cacophony of colors appeared. Most notably, a color warm and apparently rich in contagiousness: camel. "Camel is the new black" is the slogan that has been chasing the heels of fashion insiders from the front rows of Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, to the languid shoulders of Miraslava Duma. They are draped, layered, and swathed in it. They are walking on it, carrying it. All over, many are divorcing tough structure and black for a more feminine, boudoir shade that speaks volumes about the emotional state of the fashion world. When Pablo Picasso noted that `colors, like features, follow the page 119 AFTER SEASONS OF HARDHITTING WAR ENSEMBLES DESIGNED TO NEEDLESSLY MARCH US THROUGH RECYCLED-CLOTHING, HAND-ME-DOWNS, AND SARTORIAL THRIFTING, CONFRONTATION HAS PUSHED US TO THE IDEATION OF QUALITY VS. QUANTITY page 120 changes of the emotions', he was alluding to the ironic verity that our color palette is an external relation of our sentiment. The accuracy of this gesture points to a shift in the estimation that high-retail is doomed with the encroaching recession. Many are lightening up as they ditch military jackets and utility trenches. After seasons of hard-hitting war ensembles designed to needlessly march us through recycled clothing, hand-medowns, and sartorial thrifting, confrontation has pushed us to the ideation of quality vs. quantity: focusing in on classic pieces and investment items. Camel is an enveloping color rich with hints of mastic and caramel, so it is no surprise that its main appearance is in the robed coat, with soft shoulders, and a buttery, slouchy appeal. Pair it with draped paperbag waisted trousers during the winter or bare legs and wedges during the summer. As we ride camel into the Fall, it doesn't come as any sort of shock that what started as a simple color crush has turned into a full-blown love affair. "CAMEL IS THE NEW BLACK" IS THE SLOGAN THAT HAS BEEN CHASING THE HEELS OF FASHION INSIDERS page 121 summer play PHOTOGRAPHY & STLYING JOHN TROXEL, TORI MCBRIDE MODELS KEVIN, BASKA @ HOP MODEL MANAGEMENT on t he cov er page 123 page 124 shirts fischer jewelry armor on t he cov er page 125 page 126 her dress stine goya him shirt & khakis fischer on t he cov er page 127 page 128 sheer sleeved top j alexander cropped top tori mcbride her dress yu yu shiratori armpiece armor him button-up & khakis fischer cardigan ina her chiffon top brandy godsil blazer stine goya shorts vintage him shirt & trousers fischer underwear freshpairs on t he cov er page 129 page 130 on t he cov er page 131 page 132 dress yu yu shiratori armpiece armor jewelry armor tank tori mcbride blazer brandy godsil on t he cov er page 133 page 134 her dress stine goya sweater fischer him shirts fischer on t he cov er page 135 GULIA AZZALIN Photography Raffaele Grosso Assistant Lorenzo Merighi Styling Laura Mercier Makeup Alice Coloriti page 136 all clothing gulia azzalin all clothing gulia azzalin page 137 page 138 all clothing gulia azzalin all clothing gulia azzalin page 139 By Chloe Scheffe HOUSE OF ISAAC ANDREW Photography Chloe Scheffe Models Sarah, Chelsey Scheffe, Isaiah Whitmore All Clothing (On Models) H.O.I.A. page 140 Up-and-coming fashion designer Isaiah Whitmore is the mind--and the fingers--behind startup fashion label House Of Isaac Andrew. He just debuted his third ever collection at Seattle Fashion Week after beating out hundreds of other Washington fashion students to win a spot at the event. In the following few weeks Whitmore has been all over the media, including a few appearances on television. Not too bad for a 20-year-old. When did you first become aware of fashion? I think I always took notice of fashion, you know, being in the arts, being part of the entertainment business, whether in school or just doing related events. My eye has always been towards the fashion aspect of, like, everything--acting, singing, dancing, design, creating in general. What made you decide to pursue fashion design? It wasn't a long process. My choices were singing or fashion. I knew I would be in the entertainment industry. It was more of a logical decision--I knew that in the music industry, it was so hit or miss. One day you're in, six months later you're no one. The fashion industry is a multi-billion dollar industry. I want to live comfortably. It's great to be able to do something that you love, but still be able to live, you know? I don't want to be one of those starving artists. [laughs] Tell us about your label. My label is called H.O.I.A., House Of Isaac Andrew. The story behind that is pretty much that my real name is Isaiah Andre--I'm the type of person that's not focused on fashion, but on my friends and family, and having fun. Isaac Andrew is like my alter ego that is focused on fashion design--he's outgoing, hard-hitting, a go-getter. FIRST WORD-- HECTIC! CRAZY! BUT WELL WORTH IT, YOU KNOW page 141 What inspired your most recent collection for H.O.I.A.? It was inspired by the perception of darkness. A lot of people see it as ugly, unusual, and evil, you know. I wanted to take those preconceived notions--take the unusual beauty of it--and make it into something that someone finds beautiful. Not a clich� beauty; a thoughtful beauty. Another thing that inspired me was Tim Burton. He's just a great artist. He has that dark, unusual, slightly eerie persona, and he--well, his being--inspired me particularly with movies like Sweeny Todd and Edward Scissorhands. And actually, my next collection is going to be another Tim Burton, but with colors and silhouettes inspired by Alice in Wonderland. Tell us about your favorite piece you've designed, and why you like it so much. I have to think about that. There's so many that I just love. [laughs] I don't know that I can answer that--when I look at all 25, there's something that I love about each at different levels. If I have to pick--oh my gosh--if I have to pick one, I have to say, I made a--well, I made nine pieces months ago, in the wintertime. When I found out I won the competition, I had to make 16 more pieces in 12 days. It was pretty crazy. My best piece was a plunging v-neck, big shouldered, Lady Gaga-inspired black dress. It's a stretch poplin with a shine, fitted, two inches above the knee, big sharp shoulder pads, exposed zipper in the back, with an edgy asymmetric design. I love it. What kind of media attention have you gotten recently? Ever since my Seattle Fashion Week show I've been on the King 5 New Day Morning Show twice, I've been interviewed by Montage Radio, um, along with other radio stations that I can't really remember. Also Seattle Fashion TV. And I was interviewed by a lady from Milan, who later I found out was one of the daughters of the people who founded Nordstrom's. And she actually works in Milan. What she did was interview me and a few other designers, and at the show she videotaped my collection. She said that it was going to be airing in Milan, though I'm not too sure when and where. I got a lot of press from Seattle Fashion Week itself, and I had a brief article about me in the Seattle Weekly as well. Tell us more about Seattle Fashion Week. First word--hectic! Crazy! But well worth it, you know. I would say that being a student still in school, having to work part time, living in Tacoma, and having to do everything in Seattle is really crazy. But I know this is what I have to do to be successful in my career. Preparing wasn't really too bad--I knew what I had to do, I knew the time I had to work with. It was pretty much the day of the show. Some of the models didn't show up until the last minute, the hair and makeup-- sometimes it wasn't right, and I had to be demanding, put on that personality. During the actual show, there were a lot of quick changes. I only had 14 models for 25 pieces. Some of them had two to wear. I sweated a lot. But the end result was a great show, which ended in a standing ovation. Where do you see yourself in five years? I see myself in New York somewhere, working under a designer. The one thing I see a lot with emerging designers is they want to start their business right out of college. I figure I won't know enough, so I want to work under someone so I can get acquainted with it all, learn how cutthroat it is, get used to not sleeping, living off coffee and almonds. [laughs] You know, get my name out there. Do freelance design, page 142 THE RESULT WAS A GREAT SHOW, WHICH ENDING IN A STANDING OVATION page 143 and eventually try to start my own line. What is your least favorite aspect of the industry? You know, the--I would say, just the fact that you never know who is really your friend. It's hard to trust people. Even not fully in the industry now, I've seen my friends turn around and talk around my back. Not to toot my own horn, but because I'm still in school and getting attention and only 20 years old, I see my friends kind of turning on me. I knew it was going to happen, but I didn't know how fast. I prepared myself for it, but I didn't know it would happen at school. Starting the first day of school, it's a competition. I want to be the best I can be. I refuse to accept mediocrity. People are looking at you from the first day of school--so I want to make a good impression and just be the best I can be. Anything else to add? As an independent designer, working for my own label, I have a particular design aesthetic. For work and for other people, I am open to doing pretty much anything that has to do with fashion. I'm versatile; open-minded to all kinds of hiring opportunities. [laughs] Thank you, Isaiah! Thank you. page 14 4 I WANT TO WORK UNDER SOMEONE SO I CAN GET ACQUAINTED WITH IT ALL, LEARN HOW CUTTHROAT IT IS, GET USED TO NOT SLEEPING, LIVING OFF COFFEE AND ALMONDS page 145 HOME ALONE, PHOTOGRAPHY OLYA IVANOVA PRODUCER & STYLIST KATYA BOND HAIR DIMA DYSHLEVSKY MODEL KATYA BUDNIK CLOTHING PATRIZIA PEPE on t he cov er page 147 DRESSING FANCY on t he cov er page 149 on t he cov er page 151 dress misshoe.com LA MODE D�LICATE Photography Emily Tebetts Assistant Tessa Bohman Hair & Makeup Brit Cochran Model Natalia Mysnyk page 153 page 154 shirt misshoe.com page 155 page 156 1980's betsey johnson jumpsuit big bertha's bargain basement, $120 1950's knox challenger black leather fedora big bertha's bargain basement, $90 SUMMERTIME VINTAGE Photography Alicia Vega Model Jasmine Faye page 157 page 158 this & that page 1940's dina barrel dress big bertha's bargain basement, $90 adolfo ii (new york & paris) floral hat big bertha's bargain basement, $60 page 159 page 160 shirt folk trousers hilda maha FADING fading LIGHT light photography johana kim styling jeong hwan choi hair yoshi taka makeup kanako yoshida model greta @ models1 on t he cov er page 161 top & skirt hilda maha mini dress hilda maha on t he cov er page 163 shirt folk trousers hilda maha trousers hilda maha on t he cov er page 165 page 166 mini dress jayne peirson on t he cov er page 167 IN MOTION A STUDY OF MOVEMENT Photography Jakob Axelman Model Vali @ Red Model Management page 168 page 169 page 170 page 171 page 172 page 173 page 174 page 175 page 176 page 177 STRANGE DAYS Photography Zach Hertzman Hair & Makeup Jessica Jean Myers Styling Alexandra Loeb Model Danielle Knudson @ Sutherland Models top schumacher pants marc cain headpiece bricklance by headmistress necklace house of harlow earrings stylist's own ring leah-on seal by headmistress shoes michael by michael kors dress lida baday gloves stlist's own glass bead necklaces club monaco jade pendant vintage glass pendant stylist's own page 179 page 180 dress strenesse bangles h&m bracelet david yurman, holt renfrew earrings vintage top valentino red cullots valentino red bracelets stlyist's own ring model's own shoes robert clergerie page 181 the FLOW ADDENDUM illustrations chelsey scheffe LOOK 1 on t he cov er page 183 DESIGNER LOOK 2 DESIGNER LOOK 3 on t he cov er page 185 DESIGNER LOOK 4 DESIGNER LOOK 5 on t he cov er page 187 DESIGNER DREARY JUNE Photography Liz Mahoney Models Chloe Robertson, Robyn Credgington-Jones, Jeremy Winter, Thomas Huntly, Jonny Rankin page 189 page 191 RACHEL GILBERT THIS SEASON'S SPOTLIGHT DESIGNER DRAWS ATTENTION TO THE DETAILS Photography John Troxel Styling & Direction Tess P.B. Models Candice Nemec, Claar Ennis, Moe Peterson dress yu yu shiratori page 193 page 194 dress rachel gilbert page 195 page 196 dresses rachel gilbert dress yu yu shiratori page 197 page 198 dress rachel gilbert page 199 page 200 RACHELGILBERTSHOP.COM dresses rachel gilbert dress rachel gilbert page 201 page 202 By Promise Newell ANNA'S GOODBYE WE SAY GOODBYE TO THE FIRST INK IT GIRL, ANNA C Photography Joy Newell Current mood? As of now I'm feeling a little rushed. I wish I could just sit and calm down a minute. What type of art have you been creating lately? I haven't been drawing or painting to much lately... or at all for that matter. I've drawn a little girl holding her dog but sadly, that's all I've got to show. Recently, we've heard that you have become a live-in nanny for two twin infants. Creatively, how do you find space to be artistic amidst the pressure of a demanding day job? The only time I really get to myself is during their nap so if I've done the cleaning and laundry already that time is all I've got to draw. Sometimes they will only sleep 30 minutes but I savor the times they sleep for 2 hours! What advice could you give to people when it comes to following their heart, and accomplishing their goals? I'd just say do what feels right, page 203 page 204 stay calm, take your time before making a decision, and give it your all. What goals do you wish to accomplish in the next couple of years? I'm planning on being a nanny for the next 7 months to a year and after that I'm hoping to get a job at the zoo or Sea World. I've decided I really do want to work with animals and nothing else. If any good opportunity comes involving art I'd take it but right now my hearts set on animals. Anna, you always seem to have a smile on your face. Why is this? It's not to hard really. I get angry or annoyed sometimes, just like every other person I just try to control it better. Though that's not always a good thing. Any last words as an official It Girl? I really appreciated being the It Girl, it was kind of a shock when i found out I was actually the It Girl. I didn't really get it at first. But, it fun and I hope everyone who saw or read everything was somewhat delighted. page 205 MEET MOLLY BRIGHT HUGHES, INK'S NEW IT GIRL Photography Joy Newell Assistant Lonny James Huff Styling Promise Newell Sitting across from Molly at a dim-lit, upscale, downtown restaurant over pecan praline pie and a five dollar cup of coffee was quite a daunting occasion. Despite any type of refinery when it comes to surroundings, the girl simply radiates composure. Her lively gestures sparkle with a sort of understated enthusiasm only reserved for topics of utmost appreciation. A true It Girl at heart, it is no wonder why this captivating, riot of a girl beguiles us. Describe yourself in one word. Weird. I am very, very weird! What do you do? I am unfortunately mediocre at a lot of things. I am really into fashion, working on Adobe, and I love to sing. I am fairly good at music selection and playlist-making. I keep getting stuck because I feel like I am not really good at one thing! Where do you shop? I work at a Boutique called Reggie and Luca, and I find myself buying a lot of my clothes there, by default. They are very easy pieces to incorporate. And there are always thrift How did you first become interested in styling? My mom told me once that in preschool, she let me do my hair. I came out of my room with 57 plastic barrettes, and ever since then she has let me do my own thing. I have too much fun getting dressed! Who are your favorite designers? Lately I have been really into Dries, Preen, Balenciaga, and Calvin Klein. So essentially, you're a renaissance woman? Yes, right now, I am definitely exploring. By Promise Newell on t he cov er page 206 on t he cov er page 207 stores of course you can never leave empty-handed! I am always finding some gem. What is the concept behind your blog, Riff-Raff? My best friend and I started Riff-Raff at the end of high school because we started to really see the blog as a new frontier of sorts. She ended up taking off eventually, but I took it under my wing. I look at my earlier posts, and it's just embarrassing! But now it has almost become like a journal on things I like whether it is music, a pretty face--a great line. I have gotten really bored with repeated style posts on other blogs. I rather receive inspiration from other sources. So RiffRaff is very personal, but relevant. I am hoping it is enjoyable! Describe your style in 5 words or less. Ever-changing, chameleon, directional, lively, emotional. What are you inspired by? Oh gosh... everything! I know that sounds clich�, but I am obsessively in love with music. If there is a day on t he cov er page 208 EVER-CHANGING, CHAMELEON, DIRECTIONAL, LIVELY, EMOTIONAL on t he cov er page 209 where I don't listen to music, I can tell in my mood. I am not inspired by looking at everyone's outfits all the time, I much rather see it on the street. Pretty pictures of people (not celebrities), but actual people. Stockholm street style is amazing! And it is not really in an applicable way that you can be inspired by these people, because how do you apply a beautiful person? To me it is so refreshing, that you can be so reminded about how beautiful the human race is. I really like that. Who are your favorite musicians? Recently--Baths, Here We Go Magic, Joni Mitchell, and Florence and the Machine. What ambitions have you yet to fulfill? Just about everything! I want to travel. I feel like I am a realist when it comes to ambitions- I know I won't be a global phenomenon (Editor's note: INK begs to differ). I really just want to do something that means something. I hold a spot on this Earth, and I want it to be important and meaningful. I want to be someone that matters. WEARERIFFRAFF.BLOGSPOT.COM on t he cov er page 210 TO ME IT IS SO REFRESHING, THAT YOU CAN BE SO REMINDED ABOUT HOW BEAUTIFUL THE HUMAN RACE IS. I REALLY LIKE THAT on t he cov er page 211 CREW NECK Photography John Troxel Model John Lozowski page 212 By Alex Taitague Bill Cosby has a certain timeless quality about him, and something tells me it is not because the man has been immortalized through Urban Dictionary. The "Cosby Sweater" refers to (1) the act of vomiting brightly colored cereals onto one's partner's chest, or (2) the ass crack boxer flannel lint that now crowds men's shower drains everywhere. The real Cosby sweater itself, however, retains a durability rare in the sartorial scene. That torch has been proudly passed to vintage stores that vend these neon bile print jumpers to the same generation who probably entered those Urban Dictionary entries. But what exactly has allowed this fashion oddity to endure past the Cosby show? The crew neck sweater--not just the wool-Pollocks donned by Bill--has rooted itself deeply into the foundation of men's outerwear. The sheer simplicity should not be mistaken for a boring basic that, in reality, is an essential underpinning of the whole concept of layering and, to a larger extent, the accomplishment of learning to dress yourself--not that one-leg-at-a-time stock joke, but the modicum of effort it takes to think about what you are putting your legs into. Besides the obvious fact that crew necks easily cover the entire corporeal form, the fundamental design, requiring no tailoring like lined and piped blazers and button-ups, imbue the crew neck with an ease and versatility that make it such a favorably plain profundity. It seems appropriate at the first summer of the two thousand teens to turn to the boldness of such a delicately unpretentious pullover coverall. No longer too concerned with the transient tastemakers of fashion, the crew neck harks back to a time when you could carelessly throw on a Cosby sweater and call it a day. This summer is yearning to put to use the wide assortment of nuanced basics that descended from the classics. How else do we enjoy this short season at such an equivocal fashion juncture t shirt j alexander page 213 in which we are remembering and ringing in decades past and present than to rely on the classic? And, being forever on the edge of contemporary fashion, we have more than ever the greatest variety of basics at our disposal in order to save ourselves from being foredoomed as retro, or worse, unoriginal. To sum up: the ease of this returning classic will make this summer as carefree as possible, and complicate it just enough so we can all look as unique as we believe ourselves to be. The variability and availability of crew necks in any sleeve length, color, fabric, and fit can make any look not only possible, but easy. From the neon 80's fanny pack clad hipster, to the ironic Ralph Lauren cashmere-sweater-around-the-neck dandies, to the increasingly ambiguous hybrid looks that look like they belong in Polaroid pictures, the crew neck can be as vibrant as the summer sun and as relaxed as a beach bonfire. Those who hate to follow the short term fads owe much to the durability of this sweater whose long term trend is most visible in the balance of casual and professional that is so easy to label "collegiate." Its influence reaches to the allowance of bow-ties while still hiding buttons, to the opportunity to match an undershirt, collared or not, with another practical piece of an outfit, the untucked plaids and dress shirts peeking out at the waistline to accent a look, bunched up and three-quarter sleeves, and even the crew neck sweater vest. This quasi-urbane look readily identifies with indie aesthetics so commonly rocked by all the Grizzly Bears and Vampire Weekends of the music scene. We may as well call it Ivy league Vogue. The crew neck as a part of the suit is perfect this summer. It affects a sophistication that not only compliments the light and flowing fabrics that are in this summer, but is no difficult task to pull off. THE REAL COSBY SWEATER ITSELF, HOWEVER, RETAINS A DURABILITY RARE IN THE SARTORIAL SCENE page 214 page 215 SNOFLAKE Photography John Troxel Styling & Direction Taylor Wilder Model Claudia @ BMG Debbie Sutton of Snoflake Fashion has sewing in her blood. As a child in the suburbs of Windsor, Ontario, she watched her mother sew. By the sixth grade, Sutton was certain that she wanted a career as a fashion designer. She pursued that dream by attending the International Academy of Fashion Merchandising and Design. After graduating, Sutton founded Snoflake. This brand combines classic, structured silhouettes and an eclectic, freespirited feel with the best possible result. Sutton hints at trends without fully designing around them. For this reason, Snoflake is great for creative people who choose not to be carbon copies of everyone else. Sutton makes comfortable and practical pieces that fit in immediately with any woman's wardrobe. She designs to fit real women's bodies. In fact, much of her inspiration comes from what women on the streets wear. Additionally, fashion icons Audrey Hepburn and Chloe Sevigny inspire Sutton. Hepburn was the main inspiration for Sutton's Spring 2010 line. Sutton also enjoys the work of design contemporaries John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, and Marc Jacobs as well as the work of stylist Patricia Field. Field's styling of Sex and the City played a role in Sutton's fall 2010 line. Sutton described the line as Sex and the City meets India. The fall line has New York City style mixed with a color palette featuring Indian spice colors. If you ever visit Ontario you may spot Debbie Sutton sporting a perfectly disheveled look accessorized by her one of her many handbags. Thankfully, one does not have to travel all the way to Canada to experience Snoflake Fashion. For a list of stores carrying Snoflake Fashion or to shop online, visit www.snoflakefashion.com. By Taylor Bryant page 216 SNOFLAKEFASHION.COM SHOPSNOFLAKE.COM page 217 DREAM WITH ME Photography Asli Kolcu Styling Shu Han Huang Makeup Alicia Mew Model Bethany @ MandP Models blue top & gray layered dress louis de gama necklace topshop earrings luna & curious wedges topshop page 219 transparency dress yuan chin lin brown & black waist coat louis de gama black shorts & belt stylist's own necklace luna & curious rings topshop white short jacket candyce wang colorful necklace luna & curious vintage telescope beyond retro blue earrings stylist's own page 221 blue top & gray layered dress louis de gama necklace topshop earrings luna & curious wedges topshop page 223 SHOP SUMMER 2010 A ABOVE ADOLFO II ALDO ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALEXANDER WANG ALICE & OLIVIA ARIELLE DE PINTO ARISA FUKUMOTO ARMOR BERTHA'S BARGAIN BASEMENT BETSEY JOHNSON BLOCK, THE BLUE RUBY BODY BOSS ORANGE BOYS CO BRANDY GODSIL DELUXE JUNK J E ELIZABETH & JAMES E.S.S. F B BEBE SYDNEY FALKE FISCHER FOLK FOREVER 21 FORTE FORTE FRED PERRY FRESHPAIRS FRYE COMPANY, THE GENERATION LOVE GENERIC SURPLUS GRAVITY POPE GULLA AZZALIN HEADMISTRESS HEATHER BLAKE HOLT RENFREW HOPELESS HOTEL HOUSE OF BAULCH HOUSE OF HARLOW HOUSE OF ISAAC ANDREW HUGO BOSS J ALEXANDER J LINDEN BERG JAYNE PIERSON JEREMY HOYE JOHN FLUECOG JOVEEBA K KATIE & SARAHFEY L KNOX CHALLENGER G GARY GRAHAM LADY PETROVA LENKO LIDA BADAY LIMEDROP LOUIS DE GAMA LOULOU LOVES YOU LUNA & CURIOUS MARC CAIN MARIE LONEY MARTINE WESTER MAVI MCGINN LYNN STEVEN MICHAEL BY MICHAEL KORS MICKELLI ORBE MINK MISS SELFRIDGE MIU MIU page 224 M MANDULA C CAMILA SKOVGAARD CANDYCE WANG CHEAP MONDAY CHIE MIHARA CLUB MONACO COMPANY OF WE CORDELIA WESTON H H&M D DAVID YURMAN MONSOON N NDC NEW LOOK NEW TO YOU NICOLA FINETTI NOUVELLE NOUVELLE PADS K BROWER PAMELA USANTO PAUL SMITH PETER JENSEN PINS & NEEDLES PTRIZIA PEPE PRADA PREEN PRIMARK PUELLA & BIJOUX RAGSTOCK ROCK AND REPUBLIC ROBERT CLERGERIE SAMMY SCHUMACHER SIMONS SLEEP STANDING UP SNOFLAKE SOMETHING ELSE SPANISH MOSS VINTAGE STELLA MCCARTNEY STETSIS STEVEN ALAN STRENESSE SWIMS Please contact us with inquires about any of the clothing or designers featured in this issue. firstname.lastname@example.org P T TOPSHOP TORI MCBRIDE TRIPPEN page 225 U URBAN OUTFITTERS V VALENTINO RED Y Z YU YU SHIRATORI YUAN CHIN LIN ZARA VIALIS VINTAGE GENERATION, THE R RACHEL GILBERT S PAY ATTENTION TO BORA DELICACY IN THE DETAILS London-based designer Bora Aksu chose to come back to his hometown of Izmir for a first-ever gala show in Turkey just after London Fashion Week. An interview with Aksu by the UK Trade and Investment Advisor's Izmir Team reveals that Bora has much in common with his hometown as well as his creative home, London. Aksu states, "I think Izmir is going through a dynamic transformation, but this may not be widely recognized. So I believe it should be supported page 226 By Tracey Matthewson fabrics like silk and jersey which he embellishes. He chooses fabrics that hang naturally on the body such as tulle--a thin delicate fabric or fine silk, along with wool constructions. So yes, I would say he does have a lot of variety! All of those materials are obviously put together to make the garment--what can you say about the construction of Aksu's pieces? The construction in the spring/summer 2010 line has some really impressive aspects to it. He uses sharp tailoring with shirts and blazer jackets styled with flowing, feminine curves in the silhouette. He constructs geometric pieces from knit or lace, some of which you can tell resemble insect or plant-like patterns. Each of these unusually shaped sections are very complicated to construct and take an incredible bit of skill to assemble correctly--especially when using stretch fabrics! At first glance, Aksu's summer line seems intimidating and up front, how does it look from a textile student's perspective? Do you find it more delicate than harsh? With the striking silhouettes he creates and the stark contrasts between feminine and masculine shapes I think it really makes an impact. When you first look at the geometric embellishments it all seems very bold, but looking closer and paying attention to the detail, they're all made with delicate lace, knit and perhaps hand embellished sequins... It all shows just how exquisitely made his pieces are. Well thank you Alli, before we finish off these coffees, I'd just like to ask you one last thing: I notice you're wearing a lovely bracelet and a few rings--what can you say about accessories this summer? Thanks! Looking at other designers' summer collections I've noticed that accessories are quite minimal--handbags are seen a few times and a lot of chunky perspex bracelets are cropping up. Too many accessories seem to look fussy against the intricate embellishments and busy prints that are so popular on summer garments this season. People are really looking for more practical accessories that don't get in their way in all this heat! And with highs in the 80's this season, it's the loose and flowing that appeals to the Brits. with such high profile events." Like his hometown, Aksu is certainly experiencing a transformation--the swift change from the deep tones of his A/W collection to the whimsical array of textures and fabrics of this year's S/S collection marks a designer worth watching. Like his philosophy towards supporting Izmir through high-profile events, Aksu's designs are bold silhouettes built by immaculate detail--Whether he's pairing geometric shapes with soft swathes of fabric or exhibiting eye-catching lace trousers, this self proclaimed non-trend focused designer is tethered to creating fashion that demands for attention. Since officially starting his fashion career in 2003, the fourtime winner of Topshop's New Generation Award has received considerable attention without the recognition that surrounds the established names of the high fashion industry, making him a sweet novelty for those of us who have the curiosity for all things up and coming. In order to get a better idea of what made Aksu's designs so relevant this season, I pulled aside Leeds University Fashion and Textile student Alli Marsay to get a well-versed perspective on the matter. Sitting over a cup of coffee in the Caf� Blah-Blah, we scoured Bora's early work all the way to his most recent collections. What strikes you immediately about Aksu's summer 2010 collection? Well firstly, the delicate constructions featured in Asku's garments are beautiful. I also like the contrasts between sharp tailoring which reflects masculinity and the soft drapery that just oozes feminine qualities! Is Bora's use of different fabrics limited to the material or do you find variety in other aspects of his line as well? He seems to use a lot of high quality fabrics which are either textural such as lace, or smooth page 228