INK Magazine Summer 2010
INK Magazine Summer 2010 "A Delicate Issue"
page 1 A DELICATE ISSUE INK Magazine presents s u m m e r // 2 0 1 0 v o l u m e 11 , i s s u e 11 kane longden, charlotte lin, carolina engman, olya ivanova, matthew burditt, summer play, johana kim, the flow addendum, molly bright hughes + more art, fashion, and photography featuring page 3 page 5 EDITOR IN CHIEF John Troxel FOUNDERS CREATIVE DIRECTOR John Troxel, Aaliyeh Astar & Mike Bailey-Gates Promise Newell FASHION DEPARTMENT HAIR & MAKEUP Department Head: Alex Taitauge Emma Knight, Alicia Mew, Sarah Morten, Charlotte Stagg, — Jayde Chorlton, Clare Barber, Jessica Jean Myers, Kanako Writers: Monica Merel, Tracey Matthewson, Liz Yoshida, Yoshi Taka, Jessica Wilson, Brit Cochran, Alice Coloriti, Osban, Taylor Bryant, Rebecca Arenas Hila Karamand, Eugene Davis, Jenna Kuchera, Melissa Leach, — Megan Harrison, Negar Hooshmand @ Liz Bell Agency, Onna Columnists: Carolina Engman, Joe Gecks Chan, Daniel Lehenbauer, Dima Dyshlevsky — Styling Editor: Tori McBride — Contributing Stylists: Tess P.B., Shu Han Huang, Sarah Morten, Rachel Holland, Sharna Newton, Alexandra Loeb, Jeong Hwan CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS, DIRECTORS, BLOGGERS & ASSISTANTS Choi, Amanda Tang, Charlotte Stokes, Jade Leung, Deanna Tess P.B., Lonny James Huff, Taylor Wilder, Tessa Bohman, Laura Palkowski @ Liz Bell Agency, Katya Bond, Isaiah Whitmore Mercier, Cornellison, Simon Chong, Katya Bond, Chelsey Scheffe PHOTOGRAPHY DEPARTMENT MODELS Department Head: Joy Newell Cover Girl: Baska @ HOP — Cover Boy: Kevin @ HOP Staff Photographers: Alicia Vega, Chrissie — White, John Troxel, Chloe Scheffe It Girl: Molly Bright Hughes — — Contributing Photographers: Liz Mahoney, Ellie Harvey, Asli Anna C., John Lozowski @ Expressions, Jessica Morfey, Kolcu, Kane Longden, Hanna Kristina, Jakob Axelman, Zach Candice Nemec, Claar Ennis, Moe Peterson, Meijia Shao, Hertzman, Johana Kim, Emily Tebbetts, Raffaele Grosso, Lorenzo Bethany @ MandP Models, Megan Jones, Tiiu @ Sapphire Model Merighi, Sarah Louise Johnson, Zenaida Kwong, Jo Duck, Management, Katherine @ Oxygen Model Management, Laura Matthew Burditt, Kira Bucca, Matthew Wilson, Daniel @ Oxygen Model Managemnt, Vali @ Red Model Management, Lehenbauer, Olya Ivanova, Charlotte Lin Annie King, Claudia @ BMG, Danielle Knudson @ Sutherland Models, Chloe Robertson, Robyn Credgington-Jones, Jeremy MUSIC DEPARTMENT Department Head: Cody Bralts Winter, Thomas Huntley, Jonny Rankin, Greta @ Models 1, Rosie Dent, Natalia Mysnyk, Brooke Tobin, Danielle Shue, Petra Ford @ Steward Talent, Patrick Henderson @ Chosen Model Management, Gemma Janes @ Profile Model Management, Jasmine Faye, Nicole @ Mode Models, Renee @ Viviens, Alex G GRAPHIC DESIGN DEPARTMENT @ NEXT Canada, Rory @ Liz Bell Agency, Ellen @ NEXT, Kate S. Department Head: Chloe Scheffe Chelsey Scheffe, Isaiah Whitmore INK Magazine is always looking for photographers, stylists, designers and makeup artists to work with! Shoot us a message! inkmagemail@gmail. com | All contributors retain copyright to their work. Feel free to contact @ Elite Models Toronto, Cadyn Ray, Katya Budnik, Sarah, our contributors about their work, or to send us a letter. We love to hear your feedback! | Have a suggestion, idea, or general something you want to see in INK? Don't hesitate to tell us! email@example.com DEAR READERS, When Anna de Rijk emerged on the catwalk, opening the Burberry Prosum S/S 2010 show, the essentials of Summer were officially confirmed: a simple color palette, with detailed twists and draping echoed infinitely that less is more. Detailing and intricate embellishments projected a season in which the jewelry is built into the actual garment, as shoes from the likes of McQueen proved to define craftsmanship and show that the thought is being put into fashion. It's all about the details this issue, so take time to digest the content. It was fully shown that minimalism was a concept which many designers this season clung to, and along with them we have too. We've been gleaning out what we feel is not needed, and paying closer attention to the details. All of our contributors and staff went above and beyond this issue, and it's apparent. Thank you to our staff, to our contributors, and of course to our readers... and enjoy INK's A Delicate Issue. Keep Creating, John Troxel | Editor In Chief page 7 FROM THE EDITOR CONTENTS page 206 page 110 page 76 page 4 4 page 32 page 160 on the cov er Photography John Troxel Models Baska & Kevin @ HOP Clothing Tori McBride, Fischer page 122 | cov er shoot page 10 ARTICLES F E AT U R E S page 168 page 146 7 Letter From The Editor 56 Armor Jewelry 212 Crew Neck 10 The Big Three 60 Embellishments 216 Snoflake 14 Charlie & The Photo Factory 118 Camel Crush 224 Shop INK 17 Boat Shoes 140 House Of Isaac Andrew 226 Pay Attention To Bora 18 Fischer 202 Anna's Goodbye 20 Dear Diary 206 Meet Molly Bright Hughes, INK's New It Girl 26 Summer Wonder 88 Suburbia Accent 156 Summertime Vintage 32 Runaways 94 Neutral Charge 160 Fading Light 44 White Knight 100 Petra & Patrick 168 In Motion 54 Soft Pop 110 Secret Garden 178 Strange Days 64 Generation Love 122 Summer Play 182 The Flow Addendum 70 Twists Of Time 136 Gulia Azzalin 188 Dreary June 76 Shoulder Appeal 146 Home Alone, Dressing Fancy 192 Rachel Gilbert 84 Silk 152 La Mode Delicate 218 Dream With Me on t he cov er page 10 By Monica Merel THE BIG THREE Photography Kane Longden Hair, Makeup & Styling Sarah Morten Model Megan Jones Summer in Miami can only mean one thing: fewer clothing options. It becomes so unbearably hot that going Bluefly seems to be the best plan of escape from the excruciating heat. But please, for the sake of everyone, donâ€™t strip yourself nude and walk around town. There are other options! page 11 on t he cov er CONSIDER INVESTING IN A DRESS THAT IS MEANT FOR AN ICE-SKATER on t he cov er page 12 (1) Keep your outfits light! Don’t wear a heavy top or dress because once you are out the door often there is no turning back. Consider investing in a dress that is meant for an ice-skater. They’re airy, flexible and compliment any body. Just pick colors that flatter your body the most. I have come to find that bright and basic colors look good on any skin type, such as blue, red, and green. Also, they always look puttogether and do not need much accessorizing, which eliminates some of the weight on your body. (2) Minimize accessories! Over accessorizing goes out of season down in Miami during the summer because they become too heavy to be bearable! You do not want jewelry to be the cause of your discomfort. You can always choose between two accessories, like a necklace, earrings, a bracelet or rings for your outfit instead of doing all four. That way you avoid the pitfall of cluttered accessories, and minimize all that plastic and metal that will boil in the summer sun. Instead invest in some pieces of jewelry that work alone, not grouped, so you can always have a fully realized look without overdoing it. Also, you can play up the metallic within the outfit itself. Find a top or dress that already has some shimmer to it, that way when the sun reflects on that strip of silver you’ll be shining. Minimize to maximize! (3) Keep nails fresh! This is one of the easiest ways to look together without any effort: invest in a fun nail color that you adore. Remember to page 13 on t he cov er keep the color fun and most importantly adore it! I typically choose a shade of purple for my nails. To really spice things up alternate colors between hands and feet. Who ever said they have to be the same color? And if you want to be more dramatic you can either add glitter to your nails or buy the polish with glitter already in it. These simple rules will make summer days longer and fresher. By Rebecca Arenas on t he cov er page 14 CHARLIE & THE PHOTO FACTORY Photography Charlotte Lin Styling Eve Ferguson Hair & Makeup Veronique Nadeau Model Veronique Nadeau The slapping, cold wind threatens to topple the model off the pier and into Geography, and moved to Quebec City to continue her master’s the dark, roaring water behind her. The equipment is being thrown under renowned plant ecologist Serge Payette at Université around, the crew is thrown off balance as they try to help out Laval. At first hoping to work on matters of global warming, in any way possible, and fashion photographer Charlotte Lin’s she eventually realized that her calling was in photography commands are drowned out by the wind’s roar. However, Lin is after a two-month research trip to the Arctic Circle. “I had in control of the situation and quickly runs to the model to give tried photography before leaving for the arctic…[and] suddenly her directions and in less than ten seconds has the shot she was I was in the north with no internet, no phone, and no camera… looking for. Under such harsh conditions, it is hard to believe I missed photography a lot, and [since] I’ve returned, I’ve been that Lin has only been working as a fashion photographer for doing it ever since”, she explains. six months. She graduated from the University of Toronto in 2009 with a degree in Ecology and Evolutionary Biology and Physical Since her trip, she has put science aside and is focusing solely on art, using all of her time to churn out photo-spreads like a one-woman factory. Lin concentrates greatly on both the lighting page 15 on t he cov er and the editing process of photography and is making a name for her style. Her photos take you into a make-believe, surreal, fantasy world, where everything seems to be larger than life or brighter than life, more like it. The colors in her photos jump out greatly and immediately remind you of the editing styles of Tim Walker and the French film Amelie. Even though she is being published all over the world, and working full-time as a photographer, she realizes she still has a lot to learn. Just recently she had been contacted by photographer Steven Silverstein who invited her to come with him to Paris Fashion week. â€œHe called me from LA and talked to me for forty minutes about my workâ€Ś I actually wanted to yellow cami simons flower simons on t he cov er page 16 cry”, she explains. Nonetheless, she feels that she is not ready for the Haute Couture world but is sure she will end up there one day. Even with success, Lin is struggling to make it while enjoying the ride. She dropped her master’s to dedicate her life to the photography world. “My parents think it’s an impulsive decision to drop my masters [but] I want to do art and I choose art. It was a struggle because I still like science. It’s hard, but I need to follow my heart and passion, and it’s the best decision I’ve ever made”. CHARLOTTELINPHOTOS.CARBONMADE.COM white shirt zara hat h&m BOAT SHOES ARE IN AND YOU SHOULD WEAR THEM BECAUSE OF AN ARTICLE YOU READ By Alex Taitague This article is about boat shoes. Already, I have referenced myself page 17 BOAT SHOES Quite obviously the proliferators of said shoes were sailors. As as the writing authority on the subject, effectively breaking the the writer, I will 1) break the fourth wall again and 2) illuminate fourth wall of journalistic prose, and communicated to you—the what is not obvious in relation to the shoes. Seamen are by no reader—the topic of the below. It is unnecessary to explain the means fashion arbiters, but have influenced fashion beyond the function of the shoe—that is, shoes in general—and therefore aforementioned footwear. Navy and white. Horizontal stripes. can focus on the nautical aspects. A basic understanding of Gold buttons. Et cetera. In this way, sailors are not arbiters, but clothing articles has done some of my job for me, and common victims of fashion—the transition in the 80's of boat shoes as sense has rendered it silly of me to say that boat shoes were vocational/practical attire to trendy feet protection being the designed for use on boats. It is not silly, however, to point out that primary evidence of this. As the reader, you may 1) accept this they are typically of canvas or leather make. This, I maintain, wall penetration and/or 2) feel smug about this less than obvious is sensible to note because of a disparity in water-resistance; I observation on nautical garb as you wear any rendition of it and/ find myself flummoxed by this typicality—really, why canvas or 3) immerse yourself in a timeless occupation in order to be in water-heavy environs (the ocean, sea, lake, river, et cetera)? similarly victimized/ahead of the curve. The rubber soles are cut in such a fashion as to increase traction But you did not need to know all this for me—the unwalled on the often wet decks of varied floating vessels. This fashion writer/authority—to tell you—yes, you, the reader—that boat of rubber cutting is called siping (not to be confused with the shoes are in and that you should wear them because of an article Chinese city) after, not surprisingly, a man with a similar name. you read. By Taylor Bryant FISCHER Photography John Troxel Model Annie King page 18 Kristina Angelozzi, designer of Fischer Clothing, has a story that starts like many others. She was born in the suburbs of Baltimore but had big city style. In an effort to stand out from her peers, Kristina became a regular at the local thrift store. She altered her thrift store finds herself to add more originality. Angelozzi went on to college in Pennsylvania. There she earned her associates degree and learned to design. After college, Kristina started doing costumes for theatrical productions. She chose to dress the men in a more vintage style, foreshadowing her future design aesthetic. This costume design started Angelozzi's love of menswear. Kristina then attended Parson's to further her education in design. Post-Parson's, Angelozzi launched Fischer Clothing. Kristina draws on the city of New York for her design inspiration. She also enjoys the designs of Australian designer Karen Walker and appreciates the personal style of icon Claire McCardell. This inspiration culminates in a brand Angelozzi describes as laid back clothing for the older creative types. Fischer provides age appropriate clothing that still packs a punch. For the Spring 2010 season, Kristina found inspiration from the 1960's as well as modern French design. The Fall collection features a more American direction, drawing from the fashions of the 1920's, 1940's, and the style of a Belgian artist with hints of color for extra pizzazz. Though often inspired by time periods, Angelozzi is careful to keep her designs from becoming costume-y. Kristina succeeds in using subtle nuances to complete the overall look. Fischer Clothing is certainly a brand to watch. The clothes invoke a perfect balance of nostalgia and freshness, like your favorite black and white movie released in Technicolor. Experience this feeling for yourself at www.fischerclothing.com. page 19 The clothes invoke a perfect balance of nostalgia and freshness, like your favorite black and white movie released in Technicolor By Carolina Engman on t he cov er page 20 DEAR DIARY WHO? A 23-YEAR-OLD TREASURE-HUNTING PASTALOVING ROCK-BOHEMIAN GIRL WHO WORKS AS A FREELANCE STYLIST AND WRITER, AND RUNS A STYLE BLOG CALL FASHION SQUAD SMELL The swedish perfume hous e Byredo has an amazing rang e of lovely scen ts that are pe rfec for summer! FAVORITE JEWELRY This awesome ring holder from Urban Outfitters is perfect for keeping track of my favorites! In my bedroom window hangs a beautiful but slightly torn dream catcher that was a gift my brother . It reminds me to stay positive and never stop dreaming. on t he cov er page 21 DREAM CATCHERS BOOK reading to start the time for n e k ta you're in nally read it, â€™t I have fi n e v a h m. If you Shantara t! a e a real tr e ct DRESS Iâ€™m madly in love with this sheer ivory dress with rope details along the arms by Martin Lamothe. on t he cov er page 22 RING Iâ€™m absolutely obsessed with this SILK CAPE This beautiful raspberry pink silk cape is one of my most treasured vintage items. I found it in a tiny store in Barcelona and knew that we were meant for each other the second I saw it. According to the store owner it had been used at the opera in Barcelona back in the day, which makes it even more special to me. magenta hued little gem from Peace Images. New Zealand-based label Ruby’s S/S 10/11 collection is incredibly cute and I’m loving every single piece of it! on t he cov er page 23 DESIGNER RING MADNESS Pamela Love, will you marry me? TRAVEL last Right now I’m day dreaming about lona. Barce to trip cal magi er's summ Balmy nights, red wine, delicious food, beautiful harbours and amazing vintage. Take me back! SONG The Sound Of Silence by Simon and Garfunkel. Preferably accompanied by candle light, red win e and my boyfriend. on t he cov er page 24 SHOES BAG sterpiece from One day this blue ma be mine, even if l wil er oul Sch Proenza I have to kill for it! Okay, so theyâ€™re not Charles Anastase, but they look rad nontheless! Jeffrey Campbell Lita shoes, be mine! DISPOSABLE CAMERAS Disposable cameras have a certain beauty around them with their honest portrait of reality. As an extra bonus, you don’t have to retake a picture 100 times because someone doesn’t like how they look. Disposable cameras for the win! o at a I found this gorgeous vintage silk kimon at first love was it and sco Franci fleamarket in San space no up takes and t weigh light super sight. It’s ! at all in my bag, perfect for summer nights FASHIONSQUAD.COM LACE MANIA At the moment I’m completely obsessed with lace and I find myself rummaging through every thrift store that crosses my path in search of the perfect lace piece. This dress is pretty darn close! on t he cov er VINTAGE KIMONO Forget red roses. Nothing says "I love you" like a fresh, beautiful bouquet of pink peonies. page 25 FLOWERS dress & tights topshop flower ribbon ellie harvey SUMMER WONDER Photography Ellie Harvey Makeup Jessica Wilson page 27 Model Rosie Dent dress topshop petticoat beyond retro flower ribbon ellie harvey dress arisa fukumoto petticoat beyond retro cape arisa fukumoto necklace (as headband) monsoon pompoms cordelia weston page 29 dress & shoes topshop flower ribbon ellie harvey page 30 dress & tights topshop petticoat beyond retro page 31 RUNAWAYS Photography Andrew Babarczy Styling Sheri-Ann Taulla Hair & Makeup Kate Blainey Models Ryder & Stacey @ Camerons beanie jesen black top mark pereira grey top fluxus pants jesen page 33 him beanie jesen black top mark pereira grey top fluxus pants jensen shoes apex ring toby jones her vintage bodysuit ruby red dress belt friend of mine shorts neuw shoes friend of mine socks stylist's own page 35 top carly hunter shorts insight vintage brooch hunted and collected vintage glasses ruby red dress him glasses moscot tie cherry tree road jeans darium shirt jensen her top jo baker leather pants friend of mine vintage bag ruby red dress boots stylist's own page 37 glasses nina ricci bodysuit friend of mine stockings voodoo pants jo baker brooch hunted and collected watch casio page 39 glasses moscot top darium chain belt cherry tree road jeans darium necklace toby jones him suit & tie from britten top chronicles of never her vintage fur ruby red dress earrings topshop dress mark pereira vintage watch cartier page 41 ANDREWBABARCZY.COM KATEBLAINEY.COM dress winter kate vintage belt ruby red dress page 43 WHITE KNIGHT LAYERS OF WHITE WITH ACCENTS OF GOLD PROVE TO BRIGHTEN EVEN THE DULLEST OF SUMMER DAYS PHOTOGRAPHY JO DUCK STYLING JADE LEUNG HAIR & MAKEUP MEGAN HARRISON on t he cov er page 45 MODEL RENEE @ VIVIENS gauze top joveeba sheer top above pants limedrop silver bangles mink page 46 page 47 on t he cov er that page sleeveless sheer shirt above cardigan e.s.s. white cutoff leggings nicola finetti sequin chain necklace house of baulch jewel ring with chain house of baulch this page sheer blouse above pleated skirt pamela usanto lace leggings stretsis, lady petrova collar hopeless hotel black choker (as bracelet) house of baulch page 48 page 49 on t he cov er white top body circle sleeve dress e.s.s. gold sequin bolero bebe sydney, lenko page 50 page 51 on t he cov er that page white top body circle sleeve dress e.s.s. gold sequin bolero bebe sydney, lenko box chain cuff, geo cuff house of baulch circular ring mink this page chiffon shirt staple, lenko lace bolero lady petrova sequin skirt joveeba lace leggings stretsis, lady petrova ivory diamond necklace house of baulch page 52 page 53 on t he cov er JODUCK.COM JADELEUNG.COM MEGANHARRISON.COM that page linen shirt limedrop dress body bandage skirt joveeba box chain cuff house of baulch rope knot necklace limedrop this page chiffon shirt staple, lenko lace bolero lady petrova sequin skirt joveeba lace leggings stretsis, lady petrova ivory diamond necklace house of baulch above www.alloftheabove.com.au body +613 9510 6150 e.s.s. www.ess-laboratory.com house of baulch www.houseofbaulch.com hopeless hotel +614 25 803 515 lady petrova +613 9650 6285 lenko boutique www.ilovelenko.com limedrop +612 9331 6252 mink +613 9826 5545 nicola finetti (jess scott agency) +613 9419 8169 joveeba (jess scott agency) +613 9419 8169 pamela usanto +614 30 842 448 All plants courtesy of Limedrop. Special thanks to Simon Chong for use of his bachelor pad. SOFT POP Photography Matthew Wilson Makeup Onna Chan Model Kate S. @ Elite Models Toronto foundation makeup for ever, face and body brow smashbox brow tech, taupe eye shadow benefit creaseless cream, r.s.v.p. velvet shadow, leggy eye liner benefit duo pencil, downtown brown mascara dior, show black blush smashbox blushrush, radiance lip gloss makeup for ever, glossy full #4 page 55 MATTHEWWILSONPHOTOGRAPHY.COM ONNACHAN.CA ELITEMODELS.COM foundation makeup for ever, face and body brow smashbox brow tech, taupe eye shadow benefit creaseless cream, r.s.v.p. velvet shadow, leggy eye liner makeup for ever, aqua black mascara dior, show black blush smashbox blushrush, radiance lip gloss revlon, va va violet gloss makeup for ever, glossy full #5 page 56 By John Troxel ARMOR JEWELRY Photography John Troxel Makeup Tori McBride Model Brooke Tobin When did you first start making jewelry? I started making stuff two hours or half a day. I try not to rush anything, to ensure that with my hands awhile back, but didn't start experimenting with the quality is perfect. jewelry until the summer of 2008. Any big stuff coming up? There are a few upcoming projects and You make everything by hand. How long does it take you? The collaborations, but it's all "hush hush". I can tell you that it will production of each piece varies depending on how big the piece be grand, and can't wait to share it with everyone else. Be on the is, or how much detail is involved in probably ranges between look out! Armor Jewelry is just starting. page 57 page 58 I try not to rush anything, to ensure that the quality is perfect page 59 By Tracey Matthewson EMBELLISHMENTS page 60 ORNAMENTS ARE FOR CHRISTMAS. ACCESSORIES ARE FOR SUMMER Photography Hanna Kristina Styling Rachel Holland Hair & Makeup Charlotte Stagg Model Tiiu @ Sapphire Model Managment As the days warm up, there tends to be a growing inclination to begin bare-wrist owners are being swept off to the beaches, leaving a shedding layers as opposed to piling them on—a seasonal psychology string of jettisoned clothing in their wake just like ornaments that to exclude our accessories as the temperature rises. The bold patterns are tossed into boxes while the Christmas tree gets dragged to the and soft details of this season’s blouses and waistcoats just do not dump in a trail of pine needles. To say these accessories will be demand a barrage of necklaces to make up for any lost details. packed away without a glimpse of sunlight until the wintertime, Somehow bracelets, necklaces, and earrings have become though, is definitely a stretch. What actually seems to be happen- synonymous with Christmas ornaments, at least in my mind. This ing is not at all relevant to my ornament analogy; we’ve begun to does not at all mean that I see myself or anyone else as a Christ- trade a multitude of accessories for just a few functional items: mas tree, but there is some research to be had in this respect... minimalist bags that hold everything, one thick bangle instead Besides the comparison works too well with Christmas in July to of a wrist-full of them or a dainty ring, complimenting a delicate pass up. sun-kissed hand on the steering wheel of a car headed to the next Actually, the whole analogy is just a ploy to support my growing observation that accessories are being left at home while their summer adventure. page 61 striped jumpsuit the vintage generation jewelry jeremy hoye page 62 this page slip dress stylist's own lingerie urban outfitters jewelry jeremy hoye that page violet dusk jacket something else jewelry jeremy hoye page 63 weâ€™ve begun to trade a multitude of accessories for just a few functional items: minimalist bags that hold everything, one thick bangle instead of a wrist-full of them GENERATION LOVE WE INVITED THE WINTER 2010 COVERGIRL BACK TO THE PAGES OF INK TO SHOW OFF SUMMER'S GREATEST BASIC TEES, NEW YORK CITY'S OWN GENERATION LOVE. XOXO Photography John Troxel Styling & Makeup Tori McBride Model Danielle Shue page 65 v-neck alligator burnout generation love super studded v-neck generation love page 67 exposed zipper tank generation love super studded v-neck generation love shoes j alexander page 69 v-neck alligator burnout generation love face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes face atelier lip rx in naked cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks benefit luminizer in moon beam yaby powder foundation in pf037 crc cream blush in flaunt lips face atelier lip rx in naked TWISTS OF TIME Photography Kira Bucca Hair & Makeup Jessica Jean Myers page 71 Model Ellen @ Next face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes benefit luminizer in moon beam m.a.c eyeshadow in vapour & coppering cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks yaby highlight powder in bronze benefit luminizer in moon beam lips face atelier lip gloss in peach page 72 face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes m.a.c. eyeshadow in vapour & coppering cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks nix'ie cream blush in sincerity yaby highlight powder in light crc cream blush in flaunt lips face atelier lip gloss in shiraz page 73 face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes face atelier lip rx in naked benefit luminizer in moon beam cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks m.a.c. strobe cream yaby blush in bl020 lips face atelier lip gloss in dianthus face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes benefit luminizer in moon beam m.a.c. eyeshadow in vapour cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks m.a.c. strobe cream yaby blush in bl023 crc cream blush in flaunt lips face atelier lip gloss in peach page 75 face yaby liquid foundation in buff & pecan yaby powder foundation in pf046 eyes yaby eyeshadow in maroonie m.a.c. eyeshadow in vapour & coppering cover girl lash exact in very black cheeks nix'ie cream blush in sincerity yaby highlight powder in light lips m.a.c. lip glass in lychee luxe on t he cov er page 76 top stella mccartney, holt renfrew $1,995 shoulder appeal photogr a ph y m at t h e w bu r di t t l i z be l l ag e nc y ag e nc y | | | s t y l i n g d e a n n a pa l k o w s k i h a ir & m a k eu p neg a r hooshm a nd models a lex @ n e xt c a n a da , rory @ @ @ liz bell l i z be l l ag e nc y page 77 on t he cov er S him top mickelli orbe shirt deluxe junk jacket stephen schneider,Â gravity pope $450 shorts fred perry, the block $175 shoes john fluevog $199 her top mickelli orbe skirt alexander wang, gravity pope $480 shoes alexander mcqueen, holt renfrew $1,295 socks stylistâ€™s own necklace arielle de pinto, gravity pope $395 page 79 on t he cov er top stella mccartney, holt renfrew $1,995 skirt something else, nouvelle nouvelle $112 shoes miu miu, holt renfrew $520 top preen gravity pope $525 top mandula $345 skirt mandula $580 belt mandula $320 bracket woodlands $50 page 81 on t he cov er him top deluxe junk cardigan j. lindenberg, boys co $225 pants cheap monday, gravity pope $75 shoes john fluecog $199 belt hugo boss, boys co $135 necklaces sleep standing up, fin rosary $230 bow Â feather $180 her top preen gravity pope $525 top mandula $345 skirt mandula $580 belt mandula $320 shoes camilla skovgaard, holt renfrew $795 bracket woodlands $50 him shirt folk, boysco $ 238 jeans model's own belt insight, nouvelle nouvelle $35 shoes hugo boss, gravity pope $425 her top stella mccartney, holt renfrew $1,995 skirt something else, nouvelle nouvelle $112 shoes miu miu, holt renfrew $520 page 83 on t he cov er top elizabeth & james, holt renfrew $295 skirt deluxe junk shoulder pads k. brower, dream boutique $65 SILK Photography Daniel Lehenbaur Makeup Daniel Lehenbaur Model Cadyn Ray | spring 2010 page 85 the beginning 85 page 87 dress zara jacket forte forte, gravity pope necklaces blue ruby SUBURBIA ACCENT Photography Zenaida Kwong Styling Charlotte Stokes for NOBASURA Makeup Jenna Kuchera for NOBASURA Hair Melissa Leach for NOBASURA page 89 Model Nicole @ Mode Models top mcginn lynn steven scarf sammy lynn steven shoes chie mihara, gravity pope sunglasses cheap monday, gravity pope socks vintage underwear vintage bracelets blue ruby page 90 top peter jensen, gravity pope shorts used belt used ring blue ruby page 91 top peter jensen, gravity pope poncho used shorts used belt used ring blue ruby page 92 dress gary graham, gravity pope page 93 GRAVITYPOPE.COM LYNNSTEVEN.COM ZARA.COM BLUERUBY.COM dress gary graham, gravity pope tights forte forte, gravity pope shoes vialis, gravity pope bracelet blue ruby laura dress (worn as top) h&m skirt american apparel tights miss selfridge bracelet new look shoes primark katherine cropped vest beyond retro shirt american apparel necklace accessorize shoes primark NEUTRAL CHARGE Photography Sophie Ellen Lachowycz Styling Sharna Newton Makeup Jayde Chorlton, Clare Barber Hair Jayde Chorlton page 95 Models Laura & Katherine @ Oxygen Model Management hat beyond retro bodysuit american apparel page 96 flower headband loulou loves you bustier topshop page 97 shirt american apparel skirt h&m shoes primark tights falke necklace accessorize bracelet freedom dress beyond retro shoes primark belt stylist's own jewelry freedom shirt american apparel shorts beyond retro belt h&m shoes primark necklace martine wester laura shirt american apparel skirt h&m shoes primark tights falke necklace accessorize bracelets freedom ring martine wester katherine bodysuit miss selfridge skirt american apparel headbands primark ring freedom page 99 skirt american apparel cropped vest beyond retro necklace accessorize him jeans vintage shirt gap belt ragstock her chiffon maxi dress j alexander jean jacket vintage boots frye PETRA & PATRICK Photography John Troxel Styling Tori McBride page 101 Models Petra Ford @ Stewart Talent, Patrick Henderson @ Chosen Model Managment layered chiffon top brandy godsil cropped trench vintage shorts fischer jewelry j alexander page 103 beater pins & needles khaki shorts vintage him jeans vintage shirt gap belt ragstock her chiffon maxi dress j alexander jean jacket vintage boots frye page 105 cropped tee & beater tori mcbride jeans vintage belt vintage page 107 him beater pins & needles khaki shorts vintage her leopard beater spanish moss vintage cropped trench vintage gladiator sandals frye antique jewelry new to you sweater vintage jeans vintage underwear freshpairs wardrobe courtesy of: the frye company freshpairs spanish moss vintage tori mcbride j alexander puella jewelry & bijoux fischer yu yu shiratori brandy godsil page 109 page 110 THE SECRET GARDEN Photography Sarah Louise Johnson Styling Amanda Tang Makeup Hila Karamand Hair Eugene Davis Retouching Cornellison, Sarah Louise Johnson page 111 Model Gemma Janes @ Profile Model Management page 112 page 113 page 114 page 115 page 116 page 117 By Promise Newell CAMEL CRUSH page 118 INK'S CREATIVE DIRECTOR TALKS NEXT SEASON'S SILHOUETTE AND THE ONE COLOR ON EVERYONE'S BACK Photography Meijia Shao Model Meijia Shao The off-runway scene at the Fall 2010 fashion shows displayed an alarming reality: in what would normally be a sea of stark, solemn, dreary tones muted with a washed up sensibility only lent to high profiles and straight-faced editors themselves, a cacophony of colors appeared. Most notably, a color warm and apparently rich in contagiousness: camel. “Camel is the new black” is the slogan that has been chasing the heels of fashion insiders from the front rows of Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, to the languid shoulders of Miraslava Duma. They are draped, layered, and swathed in it. They are walking on it, carrying it. All over, many are divorcing tough structure and black for a more feminine, boudoir shade that speaks volumes about the emotional state of the fashion world. When Pablo Picasso noted that ‘colors, like features, follow the page 119 page 120 AFTER SEASONS OF HARDHITTING WAR ENSEMBLES DESIGNED TO NEEDLESSLY MARCH US THROUGH RECYCLED-CLOTHING, HAND-ME-DOWNS, AND SARTORIAL THRIFTING, CONFRONTATION HAS PUSHED US TO THE IDEATION OF QUALITY VS. QUANTITY changes of the emotions’, he was alluding to the ironic verity that our color palette is an external relation of our sentiment. The accuracy of this gesture points to a shift in the estimation that high-retail is doomed with the encroaching recession. Many are lightening up as they ditch military jackets and utility trenches. After seasons of hard-hitting war ensembles designed to needlessly march us through recycled clothing, hand-medowns, and sartorial thrifting, confrontation has pushed us to the ideation of quality vs. quantity: focusing in on classic pieces and investment items. Camel is an enveloping color rich with hints of mastic and caramel, so it is no surprise that its main appearance is in the robed coat, with soft shoulders, and a buttery, slouchy appeal. Pair it with draped paperbag waisted trousers during the winter or bare legs and wedges during the summer. As we ride camel into the Fall, it doesn’t come as any sort of shock that what started as a simple color crush has turned into a full-blown love affair. page 121 "CAMEL IS THE NEW BLACK" IS THE SLOGAN THAT HAS BEEN CHASING THE HEELS OF FASHION INSIDERS summer play on t he cov er page 123 PHOTOGRAPHY & STLYING JOHN TROXEL, TORI MCBRIDE MODELS KEVIN, BASKA @ HOP MODEL MANAGEMENT page 124 shirts fischer jewelry armor on t he cov er page 125 page 126 her dress stine goya him shirt & khakis fischer on t he cov er page 127 page 128 sheer sleeved top j alexander cropped top tori mcbride page 129 on t he cov er her dress yu yu shiratori armpiece armor him button-up & khakis fischer cardigan ina her chiffon top brandy godsil blazer stine goya shorts vintage him shirt & trousers fischer underwear freshpairs page 130 on t he cov er page 131 page 132 dress yu yu shiratori armpiece armor on t he cov er page 133 jewelry armor tank tori mcbride blazer brandy godsil page 134 her dress stine goya sweater fischer him shirts fischer on t he cov er page 135 GULIA AZZALIN Photography Raffaele Grosso Assistant Lorenzo Merighi Styling Laura Mercier Makeup Alice Coloriti page 136 all clothing gulia azzalin page 137 all clothing gulia azzalin page 138 all clothing gulia azzalin page 139 all clothing gulia azzalin By Chloe Scheffe HOUSE OF ISAAC ANDREW Photography Chloe Scheffe Models Sarah, Chelsey Scheffe, Isaiah Whitmore All Clothing (On Models) H.O.I.A. page 140 Up-and-coming fashion designer Isaiah Whitmore is the mind—and the fingers—behind startup fashion label House Of Isaac Andrew. He just debuted his third ever collection at Seattle Fashion Week after beating out hundreds of other Washington fashion students to win a spot at the event. In the following few weeks Whitmore has been all over the media, including a few appearances on television. Not too bad for a 20-year-old. When did you first become aware of fashion? I think I always took notice of fashion, you know, being in the arts, being part of the entertainment business, whether in school or just doing related events. My eye has always been towards the fashion aspect of, like, everything—acting, singing, dancing, design, creating in general. What made you decide to pursue fashion design? It wasn’t a long process. My choices were singing or fashion. I knew I would be in the entertainment industry. It was more of a logical decision—I knew that in the music industry, it was so hit or miss. One day you’re in, six months later you’re no one. The fashion industry is a multi-billion dollar industry. I want to live comfortably. It’s great to be able to do something that you love, but still be able to live, you know? I don’t want to be one of those starving artists. [laughs] Tell us about your label. My label is called H.O.I.A., House Of Isaac Andrew. The story behind that is pretty much that my real name is Isaiah Andre—I’m the type of person that’s not focused on fashion, but on my friends and family, and having fun. Isaac Andrew is like my alter ego that is focused on fashion design—he’s outgoing, hard-hitting, a go-getter. page 141 FIRST WORD— HECTIC! CRAZY! BUT WELL WORTH IT, YOU KNOW What inspired your most recent collection for H.O.I.A.? It was inspired by the perception of darkness. A lot of people see it as ugly, unusual, and evil, you know. I wanted to take those preconceived notions—take the unusual beauty of it—and make it into something that someone finds beautiful. Not a cliché beauty; a thoughtful beauty. Another thing that inspired me was Tim Burton. He’s just a great artist. He has that dark, unusual, slightly eerie persona, and he—well, his being—inspired me particularly with movies like Sweeny Todd and Edward Scissorhands. And actually, my next collection is going to be another Tim Burton, but with colors and silhouettes inspired by Alice in Wonderland. Tell us about your favorite piece you’ve designed, and why you like it so much. I have to think about that. There’s so many that I just love. [laughs] I don’t know that I can answer that—when I look at all 25, there’s something that I love about each at different levels. If I have to pick—oh my gosh—if I have to pick one, I have to say, I made a—well, I made nine pieces months ago, in the wintertime. When I found out I won the competition, I had to make 16 more pieces in 12 days. It was pretty crazy. My best piece was a plunging v-neck, big shouldered, Lady Gaga-inspired black dress. It’s a stretch poplin with a shine, fitted, two inches above the knee, big sharp shoulder pads, exposed zipper in the back, with an edgy asymmetric design. I love it. What kind of media attention have you gotten recently? Ever since my Seattle Fashion Week show I’ve been on the King 5 New Day Morning Show twice, I’ve been interviewed by Montage Radio, um, page 142 along with other radio stations that I can’t really remember. Also Seattle Fashion TV. And I was interviewed by a lady from Milan, who later I found out was one of the daughters of the people who founded Nordstrom’s. And she actually works in Milan. What she did was interview me and a few other designers, and at the show she videotaped my collection. She said that it was going to be airing in Milan, though I’m not too sure when and where. I got a lot of press from Seattle Fashion Week itself, and I had a brief article about me in the Seattle Weekly as well. Tell us more about Seattle Fashion Week. First word—hectic! Crazy! But well worth it, you know. I would say that being a student still in school, having to work part time, living in Tacoma, and having to do everything in Seattle is really crazy. But I know this is what I have to do to be successful in my career. Preparing wasn’t really too bad—I knew what I had to do, I knew the time I had to work with. It was pretty much the day of the show. Some of the models didn’t show up until the last minute, the hair and makeup— sometimes it wasn’t right, and I had to be demanding, put on that personality. During the actual show, there were a lot of quick changes. I only had 14 models for 25 pieces. Some of them had two to wear. I sweated a lot. But the end result was a great show, which ended in a standing ovation. Where do you see yourself in five years? I see myself in New York somewhere, working under a designer. The one thing I see a lot with emerging designers is they want to start their business right out of college. I figure I won’t know enough, so I want to work under someone so I can get acquainted with it all, learn how cutthroat it is, get used to not sleeping, living off coffee and almonds. [laughs] You know, get my name out there. Do freelance design, page 143 THE RESULT WAS A GREAT SHOW, WHICH ENDING IN A STANDING OVATION and eventually try to start my own line. What is your least favorite aspect of the industry? You know, the—I would say, just the fact that you never know who is really your friend. It’s hard to trust people. Even not fully in the industry now, I've seen my friends turn around and talk around my back. Not to toot my own horn, but because I’m still in school and getting attention and only 20 years old, I see my friends kind of turning on me. I knew it was going to happen, but I didn’t know how fast. I prepared myself for it, but I didn’t know it would happen at school. Starting the first day of school, it’s a competition. I want to be the best I can be. I refuse to accept mediocrity. People are looking at you from the first day of school—so I want to make a good impression and just be the best I can be. Anything else to add? As an independent designer, working for my own label, I have a particular design aesthetic. For work and for other people, I am open to doing pretty much anything that has to do with fashion. I’m versatile; open-minded to all kinds of hiring opportunities. [laughs] Thank you, Isaiah! Thank you. page 14 4 page 145 I want to work under someone so I can get acquainted with it all, learn how cutthroat it is, get used to not sleeping, living off coffee and almonds HOME ALONE, PHOTOGRAPHY OLYA IVANOVA PRODUCER & STYLIST KATYA BOND HAIR DIMA DYSHLEVSKY MODEL KATYA BUDNIK CLOTHING PATRIZIA PEPE on t he cov er page 147 DRESSING FANCY on t he cov er page 149 on t he cov er page 151 dress misshoe.com page 153 LA MODE DĂ‰LICATE Photography Emily Tebetts Assistant Tessa Bohman Hair & Makeup Brit Cochran Model Natalia Mysnyk page 154 page 155 shirt misshoe.com page 156 1980's betsey johnson jumpsuit big bertha's bargain basement, $120 1950's knox challenger black leather fedora big bertha's bargain basement, $90 SUMMERTIME VINTAGE Photography Alicia Vega page 157 Model Jasmine Faye page 158 this & that page 1940's dina barrel dress big bertha's bargain basement, $90 adolfo ii (new york & paris) floral hat big bertha's bargain basement, $60 page 159 page 160 shirt folk trousers hilda maha page 161 FADING fading LIGHT light on t he cov er photography johana kim styling jeong hwan choi hair yoshi taka makeup kanako yoshida model greta @ models1 top & skirt hilda maha mini dress hilda maha on t he cov er page 163 shirt folk trousers hilda maha trousers hilda maha on t he cov er page 165 page 166 mini dress jayne peirson on t he cov er page 167 IN MOTION A STUDY OF MOVEMENT Photography Jakob Axelman Model Vali @ Red Model Management page 168 page 169 page 170 page 171 page 172 page 173 page 174 page 175 page 176 page 177 STRANGE DAYS Photography Zach Hertzman Hair & Makeup Jessica Jean Myers Styling Alexandra Loeb Model Danielle Knudson @ Sutherland Models top schumacher pants marc cain headpiece bricklance by headmistress necklace house of harlow earrings stylist's own ring leah-on seal by headmistress shoes michael by michael kors page 179 dress lida baday gloves stlist's own glass bead necklaces club monaco jade pendant vintage glass pendant stylist's own page 180 dress strenesse bangles h&m bracelet david yurman, holt renfrew earrings vintage page 181 top valentino red cullots valentino red bracelets stlyist's own ring model's own shoes robert clergerie the FLOW ADDENDUM illustrations chelsey scheffe LOOK 1 DESIGNER on t he cov er page 183 LOOK 2 DESIGNER LOOK 3 DESIGNER on t he cov er page 185 LOOK 4 DESIGNER LOOK 5 DESIGNER on t he cov er page 187 DREARY JUNE Photography Liz Mahoney Models Chloe Robertson, Robyn Credgington-Jones, Jeremy Winter, Thomas Huntly, Jonny Rankin page 189 page 191 RACHEL GILBERT THIS SEASON'S SPOTLIGHT DESIGNER DRAWS ATTENTION TO THE DETAILS Photography John Troxel Styling & Direction Tess P.B. Models Candice Nemec, Claar Ennis, Moe Peterson page 193 dress yu yu shiratori page 194 dress rachel gilbert page 195 page 196 dresses rachel gilbert page 197 dress yu yu shiratori page 198 dress rachel gilbert page 199 page 200 RACHELGILBERTSHOP.COM dresses rachel gilbert page 201 dress rachel gilbert page 202 By Promise Newell ANNA'S GOODBYE WE SAY GOODBYE TO THE FIRST INK IT GIRL, ANNA C Photography Joy Newell page 203 Current mood? As of now I'm feeling a little rushed. I wish I could just sit and calm down a minute. What type of art have you been creating lately? I haven't been drawing or painting to much lately... or at all for that matter. I've drawn a little girl holding her dog but sadly, that's all I've got to show. Recently, we've heard that you have become a live-in nanny for two twin infants. Creatively, how do you find space to be artistic amidst the pressure of a demanding day job? The only time I really get to myself is during their nap so if I've done the cleaning and laundry already that time is all I've got to draw. Sometimes they will only sleep 30 minutes but I savor the times they sleep for 2 hours! What advice could you give to people when it comes to following their heart, and accomplishing their goals? I'd just say do what feels right, page 204 page 205 stay calm, take your time before making a decision, and give it your all. What goals do you wish to accomplish in the next couple of years? I'm planning on being a nanny for the next 7 months to a year and after that I'm hoping to get a job at the zoo or Sea World. I've decided I really do want to work with animals and nothing else. If any good opportunity comes involving art I'd take it but right now my hearts set on animals. Anna, you always seem to have a smile on your face. Why is this? It's not to hard really. I get angry or annoyed sometimes, just like every other person I just try to control it better. Though that's not always a good thing. Any last words as an official It Girl? I really appreciated being the It Girl, it was kind of a shock when i found out I was actually the It Girl. I didn't really get it at first. But, it fun and I hope everyone who saw or read everything was somewhat delighted. By Promise Newell on t he cov er page 206 MEET MOLLY BRIGHT HUGHES, INK'S NEW IT GIRL Photography Joy Newell Assistant Lonny James Huff Styling Promise Newell Sitting across from Molly at a dim-lit, upscale, downtown restaurant over So essentially, youâ€™re a renaissance woman? Yes, right now, I am defi- pecan praline pie and a five dollar cup of coffee was quite a daunting oc- nitely exploring. casion. Despite any type of refinery when it comes to surroundings, the girl simply radiates composure. Her lively gestures sparkle How did you first become interested in styling? My mom told me once with a sort of understated enthusiasm only reserved for topics of that in preschool, she let me do my hair. I came out of my room utmost appreciation. A true It Girl at heart, it is no wonder why with 57 plastic barrettes, and ever since then she has let me do my this captivating, riot of a girl beguiles us. own thing. I have too much fun getting dressed! Describe yourself in one word. Weird. I am very, very weird! Who are your favorite designers? Lately I have been really into Dries, Preen, Balenciaga, and Calvin Klein. What do you do? I am unfortunately mediocre at a lot of things. I am really into fashion, working on Adobe, and I love to sing. I am Where do you shop? I work at a Boutique called Reggie and Luca, fairly good at music selection and playlist-making. I keep getting and I find myself buying a lot of my clothes there, by default. They stuck because I feel like I am not really good at one thing! are very easy pieces to incorporate. And there are always thrift on t he cov er page 207 stores of course you can never leave empty-handed! I am always finding some gem. What is the concept behind your blog, Riff-Raff? My best friend and I started Riff-Raff at the end of high school because we started to really see the blog as a new frontier of sorts. She ended up taking off eventually, but I took it under my wing. I look at my earlier posts, and it’s just embarrassing! But now it has almost become like a journal on things I like whether it is music, a pretty face—a great line. I have gotten really bored with repeated style posts on other blogs. I rather receive inspiration from other sources. So RiffRaff is very personal, but relevant. I am hoping it is enjoyable! Describe your style in 5 words or less. Ever-changing, chameleon, directional, lively, emotional. What are you inspired by? Oh gosh… everything! I know that sounds cliché, but I am obsessively in love with music. If there is a day on t he cov er page 208 on t he cov er page 209 EVER-CHANGING, CHAMELEON, DIRECTIONAL, LIVELY, EMOTIONAL where I don’t listen to music, I can tell in my mood. I am not inspired by looking at everyone’s outfits all the time, I much rather see it on the street. Pretty pictures of people (not celebrities), but actual people. Stockholm street style is amazing! And it is not really in an applicable way that you can be inspired by these people, because how do you apply a beautiful person? To me it is so refreshing, that you can be so reminded about how beautiful the human race is. I really like that. Who are your favorite musicians? Recently—Baths, Here We Go Magic, Joni Mitchell, and Florence and the Machine. What ambitions have you yet to fulfill? Just about everything! I want to travel. I feel like I am a realist when it comes to ambitions- I know I won’t be a global phenomenon (Editor's note: INK begs to differ). I really just want to do something that means something. I hold a spot on this Earth, and I want it to be important and meaningful. I want to be someone that matters. WEARERIFFRAFF.BLOGSPOT.COM on t he cov er page 210 on t he cov er page 211 TO ME IT IS SO REFRESHING, THAT YOU CAN BE SO REMINDED ABOUT HOW BEAUTIFUL THE HUMAN RACE IS. I REALLY LIKE THAT By Alex Taitague CREW NECK Photography John Troxel Model John Lozowski page 212 Bill Cosby has a certain timeless quality about him, and something tells me it is not because the man has been immortalized through Urban Dictionary. The “Cosby Sweater” refers to (1) the act of vomiting brightly colored cereals onto one’s partner’s chest, or (2) the ass crack boxer flannel lint that now crowds men’s shower drains everywhere. The real Cosby sweater itself, however, retains a durability rare in the sartorial scene. That torch has been proudly passed to vintage stores that vend these neon bile print jumpers to the same generation who probably entered those Urban Dictionary entries. But what exactly has allowed this fashion oddity to endure past the Cosby show? The crew neck sweater—not just the wool-Pollocks donned by Bill—has rooted itself deeply into the foundation of men’s outerwear. The sheer simplicity should not be mistaken for a boring basic that, in reality, is an essential underpinning of the whole concept of layering and, to a larger extent, the accomplishment of learning to dress yourself—not that one-leg-at-a-time stock joke, but the modicum of effort it takes to think about what you are putting your legs into. Besides the obvious fact that crew necks easily cover the entire corporeal form, the fundamental design, requiring no tailoring like lined and piped blazers and button-ups, imbue the crew neck with an ease and versatility that make it such a favorably plain profundity. It seems appropriate at the first summer of the two thousand teens to turn to the boldness of such a delicately unpretentious pullover coverall. No longer too concerned with the transient tastemakers of fashion, the crew neck harks back to a time when you could carelessly throw on a Cosby sweater and call it a day. This summer is yearning to put to use the wide assortment of nuanced basics that descended from the classics. How else do we enjoy this short season at such an equivocal fashion juncture page 213 t shirt j alexander in which we are remembering and ringing in decades past and Those who hate to follow the short term fads owe much to the present than to rely on the classic? And, being forever on the edge durability of this sweater whose long term trend is most visible of contemporary fashion, we have more than ever the greatest va- in the balance of casual and professional that is so easy to label riety of basics at our disposal in order to save ourselves from being â€œcollegiate.â€? Its influence reaches to the allowance of bow-ties foredoomed as retro, or worse, unoriginal. while still hiding buttons, to the opportunity to match an under- To sum up: the ease of this returning classic will make this shirt, collared or not, with another practical piece of an outfit, the summer as carefree as possible, and complicate it just enough so untucked plaids and dress shirts peeking out at the waistline to we can all look as unique as we believe ourselves to be. The vari- accent a look, bunched up and three-quarter sleeves, and even the ability and availability of crew necks in any sleeve length, color, crew neck sweater vest. This quasi-urbane look readily identifies fabric, and fit can make any look not only possible, but easy. From with indie aesthetics so commonly rocked by all the Grizzly Bears the neon 80's fanny pack clad hipster, to the ironic Ralph Lauren and Vampire Weekends of the music scene. cashmere-sweater-around-the-neck dandies, to the increasingly We may as well call it Ivy league Vogue. The crew neck as a part ambiguous hybrid looks that look like they belong in Polaroid of the suit is perfect this summer. It affects a sophistication that pictures, the crew neck can be as vibrant as the summer sun and not only compliments the light and flowing fabrics that are in this as relaxed as a beach bonfire. summer, but is no difficult task to pull off. page 214 The real Cosby sweater itself, however, retains a durability rare in the sartorial scene page 215 page 216 By Taylor Bryant SNOFLAKE Photography John Troxel Styling & Direction Taylor Wilder Model Claudia @ BMG Debbie Sutton of Snoflake Fashion has sewing in her blood. As a child Additionally, fashion icons Audrey Hepburn and Chloe in the suburbs of Windsor, Ontario, she watched her mother sew. Sevigny inspire Sutton. Hepburn was the main inspiration for By the sixth grade, Sutton was certain that she wanted a career Sutton’s Spring 2010 line. Sutton also enjoys the work of design as a fashion designer. She pursued that dream by attending the contemporaries John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne International Academy of Fashion Merchandising and Design. Westwood, and Marc Jacobs as well as the work of stylist Patricia After graduating, Sutton founded Snoflake. This brand Field. Field’s styling of Sex and the City played a role in Sutton’s combines classic, structured silhouettes and an eclectic, free- fall 2010 line. Sutton described the line as Sex and the City meets spirited feel with the best possible result. Sutton hints at trends India. The fall line has New York City style mixed with a color without fully designing around them. For this reason, Snoflake is palette featuring Indian spice colors. great for creative people who choose not to be carbon copies of If you ever visit Ontario you may spot Debbie Sutton sporting everyone else. Sutton makes comfortable and practical pieces that a perfectly disheveled look accessorized by her one of her many fit in immediately with any woman’s wardrobe. She designs to fit handbags. Thankfully, one does not have to travel all the way to real women’s bodies. In fact, much of her inspiration comes from Canada to experience Snoflake Fashion. For a list of stores carrying what women on the streets wear. Snoflake Fashion or to shop online, visit www.snoflakefashion.com. page 217 SNOFLAKEFASHION.COM SHOPSNOFLAKE.COM DREAM WITH ME Photography Asli Kolcu Styling Shu Han Huang Makeup Alicia Mew Model Bethany @ MandP Models blue top & gray layered dress louis de gama necklace topshop earrings luna & curious wedges topshop page 219 transparency dress yuan chin lin brown & black waist coat louis de gama black shorts & belt stylist's own necklace luna & curious rings topshop page 221 white short jacket candyce wang colorful necklace luna & curious vintage telescope beyond retro blue earrings stylist's own blue top & gray layered dress louis de gama necklace topshop earrings luna & curious wedges topshop page 223 SHOP A ABOVE ADOLFO II ALDO ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALEXANDER WANG ALICE & OLIVIA ARIELLE DE PINTO ARISA FUKUMOTO ARMOR page 224 B BEBE SYDNEY BERTHA'S BARGAIN BASEMENT BETSEY JOHNSON BLOCK, THE BLUE RUBY BODY BOSS ORANGE BOYS CO BRANDY GODSIL C CAMILA SKOVGAARD CANDYCE WANG CHEAP MONDAY CHIE MIHARA CLUB MONACO COMPANY OF WE CORDELIA WESTON D DAVID YURMAN SUMMER 2010 DELUXE JUNK J E ELIZABETH & JAMES E.S.S. F FALKE FISCHER FOLK FOREVER 21 FORTE FORTE FRED PERRY FRESHPAIRS FRYE COMPANY, THE G GARY GRAHAM GENERATION LOVE GENERIC SURPLUS GRAVITY POPE GULLA AZZALIN H H&M HEADMISTRESS HEATHER BLAKE HOLT RENFREW HOPELESS HOTEL HOUSE OF BAULCH HOUSE OF HARLOW HOUSE OF ISAAC ANDREW HUGO BOSS J ALEXANDER J LINDEN BERG JAYNE PIERSON JEREMY HOYE JOHN FLUECOG JOVEEBA K KATIE & SARAHFEY KNOX CHALLENGER L LADY PETROVA LENKO LIDA BADAY LIMEDROP LOUIS DE GAMA LOULOU LOVES YOU LUNA & CURIOUS M MANDULA MARC CAIN MARIE LONEY MARTINE WESTER MAVI MCGINN LYNN STEVEN MICHAEL BY MICHAEL KORS MICKELLI ORBE MINK MISS SELFRIDGE MIU MIU SOMETHING ELSE SPANISH MOSS VINTAGE STELLA MCCARTNEY STETSIS STEVEN ALAN STRENESSE SWIMS N NDC NEW LOOK NEW TO YOU NICOLA FINETTI NOUVELLE NOUVELLE P PADS K BROWER PAMELA USANTO PAUL SMITH PETER JENSEN PINS & NEEDLES PTRIZIA PEPE PRADA PREEN PRIMARK PUELLA & BIJOUX R RACHEL GILBERT RAGSTOCK ROCK AND REPUBLIC ROBERT CLERGERIE S SAMMY SCHUMACHER SIMONS SLEEP STANDING UP SNOFLAKE T Please contact us with inquires about any of the clothing or designers featured in this issue. firstname.lastname@example.org TOPSHOP TORI MCBRIDE TRIPPEN U URBAN OUTFITTERS V VALENTINO RED VIALIS VINTAGE GENERATION, THE Y YU YU SHIRATORI YUAN CHIN LIN Z ZARA page 225 MONSOON By Tracey Matthewson PAY ATTENTION TO BORA DELICACY IN THE DETAILS London-based designer Bora Aksu chose to come back to his hometown fabrics like silk and jersey which he embellishes. He chooses fab- of Izmir for a first-ever gala show in Turkey just after London Fashion rics that hang naturally on the body such as tulle—a thin delicate Week. An interview with Aksu by the UK Trade and Investment fabric or fine silk, along with wool constructions. So yes, I would Advisor’s Izmir Team reveals that Bora has much in common with say he does have a lot of variety! his hometown as well as his creative home, London. Aksu states, page 226 “I think Izmir is going through a dynamic transformation, but this All of those materials are obviously put together to make the gar- may not be widely recognized. So I believe it should be supported ment—what can you say about the construction of Aksu's pieces? The with such high profile events.” Like his hometown, Aksu is cer- construction in the spring/summer 2010 line has some really tainly experiencing a transformation—the swift change from the impressive aspects to it. He uses sharp tailoring with shirts and deep tones of his A/W collection to the whimsical array of textures blazer jackets styled with flowing, feminine curves in the silhou- and fabrics of this year’s S/S collection marks a designer worth ette. He constructs geometric pieces from knit or lace, some of watching. Like his philosophy towards supporting Izmir through which you can tell resemble insect or plant-like patterns. Each of high-profile events, Aksu’s designs are bold silhouettes built by these unusually shaped sections are very complicated to construct immaculate detail—Whether he’s pairing geometric shapes with and take an incredible bit of skill to assemble correctly—especially soft swathes of fabric or exhibiting eye-catching lace trousers, this when using stretch fabrics! self proclaimed non-trend focused designer is tethered to creating fashion that demands for attention. Since officially starting his fashion career in 2003, the four- At first glance, Aksu's summer line seems intimidating and up front, how does it look from a textile student's perspective? Do you find it more time winner of Topshop’s New Generation Award has received delicate than harsh? With the striking silhouettes he creates and the considerable attention without the recognition that surrounds stark contrasts between feminine and masculine shapes I think the established names of the high fashion industry, making him a it really makes an impact. When you first look at the geometric sweet novelty for those of us who have the curiosity for all things embellishments it all seems very bold, but looking closer and pay- up and coming. ing attention to the detail, they’re all made with delicate lace, knit In order to get a better idea of what made Aksu’s designs so relevant this season, I pulled aside Leeds University Fashion and and perhaps hand embellished sequins… It all shows just how exquisitely made his pieces are. Textile student Alli Marsay to get a well-versed perspective on the matter. Sitting over a cup of coffee in the Café Blah-Blah, we Well thank you Alli, before we finish off these coffees, I'd just like to ask scoured Bora’s early work all the way to his most recent collections. you one last thing: I notice you're wearing a lovely bracelet and a few rings--what can you say about accessories this summer? Thanks! Look- What strikes you immediately about Aksu's summer 2010 collection? ing at other designers’ summer collections I've noticed that acces- Well firstly, the delicate constructions featured in Asku's garments sories are quite minimal—handbags are seen a few times and a lot are beautiful. I also like the contrasts between sharp tailoring of chunky perspex bracelets are cropping up. Too many accesso- which reflects masculinity and the soft drapery that just oozes ries seem to look fussy against the intricate embellishments and feminine qualities! busy prints that are so popular on summer garments this season. People are really looking for more practical accessories that don't Is Bora’s use of different fabrics limited to the material or do you find vari- get in their way in all this heat! And with highs in the 80’s this ety in other aspects of his line as well? He seems to use a lot of high season, it’s the loose and flowing that appeals to the Brits. quality fabrics which are either textural such as lace, or smooth page 228