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Contents SEPTEMBER 2014

Win! A TRIP TO ICELAND Turn to p129

Extraordinary Places to Stay p30

Great Escape Burma p47

Introducing Lonely Planet Traveller Welcome to the September issue of Lonely Planet Traveller. This month, we’ve roamed near and far to find places with that most elusive quality: beauty. Rome has it in spades, and St Peter’s Basilica – on the cover this issue – is just one of the many places to take it in; we explore a dozen more in our feature on the city. 4

Lonely Planet Traveller September 2014

We also asked experts such as illustrator Quentin Blake and architect Zaha Hadid to share the places that captivate them. From remote bays to grand cities, they find artistic inspiration from all corners of the globe. Iceland’s elemental landscape is a unique spectacle, and this month we explore it on four wheels, taking a road trip

amongst lava fields, ice caps and waterfalls on the island’s epic Ring Road. You’ll also find top-notch photography in Postcards and six Mini Guides, including Edinburgh, Barcelona and Tuscany – plus a photographer’s story about the London artisans busy creating their own beauty. Enjoy the September issue!

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: LUIGI VACCARELLA/4CORNERS IMAGES. PHOTOGRAPHS: GARY LATHAM, JULIAN LOVE, MAPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK, ANDREW MONTGOMERY, NIKADA/GETTY IMAGES, ANGELOS STEREOSIS, SUSAN WRIGHT

Easy Trips p37

DESTINATION INDEX

ON THE COVER

Rome p76 The World’s Most Beautiful Places p62

Xxxxxx pxxx

Iceland Ring Road p88 The Photographer’s Story p102

Features 62 THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so we asked 16 experts in their field to reveal the places that moved them – desert oases, castaway islands, whitewashed historic towns and hidden boltholes 76 ROME The Eternal City is a dazzling mosaic, in which popes, gladiators, Romantic poets and crazy Vespa drivers all make an appearance 88 ICELAND There is only one road that counts in Iceland – the one that loops round the entire island, through the stark wonder of its sweeping landscapes 102 THE PHOTOGRAPHER’S STORY The streets of east London are home to a growing number of creative ventures, from bespoke bike building to a jeweller with a difference

Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings Sights

Tours

Drinking

Beaches

Festivals

Entertainment

Activities

Sleeping

Courses

Eating

Shopping Information & Transport

All prices correct at time of going to press. Prices for hotel rooms are for double, en suite rooms with breakfast in low season, unless otherwise stated. Flight prices are for the cheapest return fares, including one piece of hold baggage, unless otherwise stated.

Argentina p29 Australia New South Wales p65 Botswana Kalahari Desert p74 Brazil p29 Burma p47 China Gansu p73 Hong Kong p127 Czech Republic Prague p123 Denmark Copenhagen p40 Ecuador Cotopaxi p24 Galápagos Islands p15 England Cotswolds p39, p117 Dorset p27 Isles of Scilly p74 Kent p44, p66 London p31, p38, p41, p 70, p102 Norfolk p44 Peak District p70 Ethiopia Lalibela p68 France Brittany p31, p66 Paris p21, p26 Greece Mykonos p31 Iceland p88 India Agra p10 Indonesia Sumbawa p16 Ireland County Cork p67 Italy Florence p16 Puglia p72 Rome p76 Tuscany p125 Montenegro p27 Morocco Fez p30 Netherlands Amsterdam p33 Portugal Porto p42 Scotland Aberdeenshire p75 Edinburgh p119 South Africa Limpopo p15 Spain Barcelona p121 Girona p31 Ibiza p43 Málaga p38 Sri Lanka p12 Turkey Istanbul p62 Turks and Caicos p71 USA p29 Florida p72 New York p8 Oregon p65 Wales Pembrokeshire p40

Subscribe today! 18 Take out a subscription to Lonely Planet Traveller and try your first five issues for just £5.

September 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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Postcards WHERE YOU’VE BEEN AND WHAT YOU’VE SEEN

POSTCARDS Why not get involved? We’d love to include your best new travel photos (at 300dpi) and the inspiring stories behind them. Send them with a pic of yourself to postcards@lptraveller.co.uk

This mural by Brazilian artist Eduardo Kobra is based on Alfred Eisenstaedt’s iconic photograph V-J Day in Times Square, depicting a sailor kissing a nurse on the day Japan surrendered in WWII

NEW YORK, USA

With flying colours My wife and I have always wanted to go to New York, so when we got married recently it was obvious where we should go for our honeymoon: the Big Apple. On our very last day in the city, we took a stroll along the High Line, a public park built on old railway lines elevated above the streets in Manhattan’s West Side. The walk and the views from the park were so wonderful. At the halfway point of our walk, we saw this amazing work of graffiti and I had to take a photo. I love the result. I will always remember that trip to New York, and all the things my wife and I did, and the memories we made.

Alejandro Such lives in Alicante in Spain September 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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Globetrotter A WORLD OF TRAVEL NEWS AND DISCOVERIES

Local Knowledge

PHOTOGRAPH: ROBERTO FRANKENBERG

My Paris CLOTILDE DUSOULIER is a food writer and cook. She shares recipes and culinary discoveries on her blog Chocolate & Zucchini, inspired by her passion for healthy, seasonal food – and by her sweet tooth. A Paris native, she has called Montmartre home for the past 12 years. Her latest book is The French Market Cookbook, a collection of vegetarian recipes. chocolateandzucchini.com TURN OVER FOR CLOTILDE’S LOCAL TIPS

GLOBETROTTER

Local Knowledge ‘Paris is a city of beautiful contrasts. It’s a mix of tradition and innovation, bustle and quiet, places that are modern and places like tiny villages’

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u For dinner, I love Bones (1). It offers a

succession of simple dishes done right, with pairings that I wouldn’t necessarily think of myself. I like that the chef has a strong fromscratch approach – he makes his own bread, butter and charcuterie – and the service is kind and attentive. LE BAL Café (2) is great for lunch. It’s bright and modern, and the food is always seasonal – each ingredient sings with flavour. bonesparis.com; le-bal.fr

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u In the whirl of city life, I love to find an escape

in neighbourhoods that I’d never have thought could exist here. La Cité Florale (3) is a small area with tiny houses and paved streets named after flowers, that feels like Paris from another time. I never tire of Montmartre either. It’s like a village, and once you’re away from the touristy top of the hill, there’s lots of winding streets and stairwells and little parks. I like getting lost and peeking through gates to imagine what it might be like to live in a house with a garden in Paris – my personal dream.

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u Batignolles Market (4) is a genuine farmers’

market – the growers are the sellers, which isn’t often the case in Paris. It’s very seasonal and organic, and small enough to see what everyone has and compare prices. I also love La Grande Épicerie de Paris, a huge gourmet food shop that sells lots of interesting products. It’s a good way to take in the trends, and it has extremely high-quality ingredients – I can easily find things to add excitement to my cooking, from a sauce or condiment to a new pasta shape. Batignolles Market, Boulevard des Batignolles, Sat 9am–3pm; lagrandeepicerie.com connection to the city, and Les Berges on the Left Bank is particularly great for this. It used to be a highway, but has been completely remodelled into a pedestrian area, and you can also bike or roller-skate and rent a little shack to have a picnic with friends, or just doze. I feel they’ve really thought out of the box to create spaces that Parisians can make their own. lesberges.paris.fr

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ROBERTO FRANKENBERG

u Whenever I’m near the Seine I feel a special

GLOBETROTTER

Travel News

Arrivals Cotopaxi volcano in the Andes mountains, Ecuador

AROUND THE WORLD IN 1,007 SITES An 18,600-mile Inca road system is among the sites recently added to Unesco’s World Heritage list, swelling the total to more than 1,000. The Qhapaq Ñan (‘Beautiful

Road’) was constructed over several centuries and links Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Peru and Ecuador (try Audley Travel’s 14-day Ecuador by River and Rail tour, £4,820, which includes a visit to Cotopaxi, above; audleytravel.com).

New Hotel Built in 1929, Piscine Molitor in Paris is a rather storied pool: it was here that the first bikini was unveiled in 1946, and it gave the eponymous character in Life of Pi his name. It shut 25 years ago and fell victim to decay – but has just reopened, restored as a hotel. Swimming is only possible for staying guests, so you'll need to plunge into the deep end of your wallet to get in (rooms from £215; mgallery.com). 24

Lonely Planet Traveller September 2014

BEFORE

Also new to the list is Botswana’s Okavango Delta, home to endangered species such as cheetahs, rhinos and lions (spot them on Exodus’s 16-day Wildlife & Wilderness of Botswana tour, £3,079; exodus.co.uk). Closer to home, the vineyard landscape of

AFTER

Piedmont in Italy also made the cut (Arblaster & Clarke’s tours of Piedmont start at £1,599; winetours.co.uk). Sites must be of ‘outstanding universal value’ to qualify for the list, and host nations follow strict conservation rules.

GLOBETROTTER

ON

£225,0L0Y 0!

DO YOU LIKE TO BE BESIDE THE SEASIDE? Another month, another horrifyingly expensive beach hut goes up for sale. This four-metre-square wooden shack has no bathroom, no mains electricity, no running water or any sea view, but has just gone on the market in Mudeford Spit, Dorset, for £225,000. But why buy when you could spend as little as £300 for a week in a much more des res version, just a pebble’s throw away? (beach-huts.com)

The ascendancy of Croatia’s lovely but lesser-known neighbour continues, as the Regent Porto Montenegro opens in Boka Bay (from £235; regenthotels.com).

Relive the Flying Forties with new book, All-American Ads of the 40s (TASCHEN, £27.99). E S TV TO XPLO ER V N I RE K O SIMO ED R THE R C N REEVE: BAC A S WORLD’S AN

GES

“Stunningly beautiful, particularly in the far west of China.”

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NGTZE

“I’m from London, born and bred, and it’s the essence of the city.”

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YA

AMES

To mark the start of his new series Sacred Rivers on BBC Two this September, we asked veteran adventurer Simon Reeve to share his three favourite rivers. Find out more about the series at radiotimes.com/travel.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: JOHN COLETTI/AWL IMAGES, SIPA PRESS/REX, RICHARD BORD/GETTY IMAGES, CORIN MESSER/ BOURNEMOUTH ECHO/BNPS, SIMON REEVE, JANE SWEENEY/AWL IMAGES, STUART DEE/GETTY IMAGES, KATE ASHTON

New Hotel

“There’s so much belief, love and faith invested in this Indian river.”

September 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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Easy Trips ummer for the peak of s

including

uA wine break in Portugal uCountry-house living in the Cotswolds uIbiza away from the crowds uA food festival in Copenhagen

The intimate 36-seat upstairs restaurant at The Bull & The Hide

A place to hide away Occupying the site of a house built by wannabe nobleman Jasper Fisher in the 16th century, and deemed so ‘sumptuously builded and beautiful’ (by historian John Stow) that it was nicknamed Fisher’s Folly, The Bull & The Hide feels several worlds, if not centuries, away from nearby Liverpool Street Station and the glass towers of the City of London. Tucked down a quiet alleyway, its three floors have all needs well covered: local beer, wine and cider in the pub downstairs (the Bull part); a robust interpretation of classic European dishes, from steak to lobster macaroni, in the stylish restaurant in the middle (the Hide); and seven small but perfectly formed and wonderfully comfy guest rooms above. All are named after local landmarks, including, naturally, one Fisher’s Folly. Spitalfields Market is on the doorstep, with stalls likely to cater for your every whim, whether you’re after a truckle of Westcombe cheddar or a pair of ’50s Ray-Bans.

MAKE IT HAPPEN The Bull & The Hide has seven guest rooms above its first-floor restaurant and ground-floor pub (from £150; thebullandthehide. com). Dinner at The Hide starts from £20 for two courses. The nearest tube station is Liverpool Street, on the Circle, Metropolitan and Hammersmith & City lines (tfl.gov.uk). Spitalfields Market is open every day of the week. Check the website for events and trader info (spitalfields.co.uk).

For nine days every August, Málaga goes un poco loco as the city is taken over by its summer feria (fair). Festivities are opened with a Friday-night firework display before beginning in earnest the next day. The hottest time of year in Andalucía might seem a strange time to hold back-to-back street parties (for comparison, Seville holds its big rival feria in April), but the fair began as a Catholic celebration to mark the reconquest of Málaga from the Moors in August 1487. Religion takes a back seat nowadays. Instead, the fair is an excuse to throng the streets under bunting and strings of lights,

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surrounded by costumed flamenco dancers and with a glass of fino sherry always close to hand. Despite being the hub of the Costa del Sol, Málaga and its attractive historic centre get less attention from visitors than might be expected – at any rate, locals provide the feria’s core support. Celebrations divide into daytime events and ones that only kick off after dark. For the latter, special buses ferry people from all over the city to the Cortijo de Torres, two miles southwest of the city centre, where live music, fairground rides and food tents keep revellers occupied until dawn.

MAKE IT HAPPEN The Feria de Málaga runs from 16–23 August (andalucia.com). Málaga is served by flights from most main UK airports, on airlines including BA, easyJet, Flybe, Jet2, Monarch, Norwegian, Ryanair and Thomson Airways (from £85; ryanair.com). Located on the central Plaza de la Constitución, the Room Mate Larios is housed in an elegantly restored 19th-century building. Rooms are luxuriously furnished with king-size beds and many have balconies overlooking the main shopping street (from £85; room-matehotels.com). A woman wearing a traditional Sevillanas costume takes part in the Málaga feria

PHOTOGRAPHS: OSKAR PROCTOR, STRINGER/SPAIN/REUTERS/CORBIS, RAY MAIN

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Fair’s fair in southern Spain

Great Escape B U R M A

The last country in Southeast Asia to open up to tourism is making up for lost time – get a slow introduction to its charms on a riverboat cruise to an enigmatic city of temples, while elsewhere in Burma you’ll find rewarding treks from an old hill station and encounter miles of unspoilt beaches

G R E AT E S C A P E

WORDS OLIVER BERRY l PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY

All Buddhist males in Burma are expected to live as a monk for a period between the ages of 10 and 20, and again for a time after they turn 20

Plan your trip 1

Drift past sleepy scenes of local life in the heart of Burma on a two-day boat trip along the Irrawaddy River (p52)

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Set out along walking trails through Kalaw’s hills, where small farming villages show the variety of Burma’s tribal communities (p56)

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Stay high and dry while exploring a world of floating gardens and houses perched on stilts around Inle Lake (p58)

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Unwind along miles of blessedly undeveloped sandy beaches at littleknown Ngwe Saung (p60)

MAP ILLUSTRATION: ALEX VERHILLE. PHOTOGRAPHS: TIBOR BOGNÁS/AGEFOTOSTOCK/SUPERSTOCK, JULIO ETCHART/ALAMY, ANDREW MONTGOMERY, MATT MUNRO

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Venture out at first or last light to see the fabled 2,000 temples of Bagan at their most spellbinding (p54)

1. Irrawaddy River

The first Burmese kingdoms grew up along this majestic river, and a two-day cruise from Mandalay to Bagan still makes a wonderfully relaxed introduction to this land of pagodas from left The RV Katha Pandaw – a riverboat on the Irrawaddy; balancing pots in Yandabo village; claywork drying in the sun

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Lonely Planet Traveller September 2014

holy relics. Monasteries appear along the shoreline, their tiered roofs rising from a canopy of palm and bamboo. Occasionally, golden pagodas glint amongst the trees, their gilded tops flashing in the sunlight. Captain Thein Swe Oo has worked as a boatman on the Irrawaddy for a quarter of a century. He started as a deckhand, moving up the ranks as he learned to navigate the river. Dressed in a loose shirt and the baggy Burmese sarong-like garment known as a longyi, he’s now in charge of his own vessel, a double-decked ferry called the Tai Win. ‘It takes many years to know the Ayeyarwady,’ he says, manning the helm while his son Min Min scans the river ahead for obstacles. ‘There are many sandbanks and channels, and the currents change often. After 25 years, I know it quite well, but even now the river sometimes catches me by surprise.’ The sun sets towards the trees, turning the river from tea brown to terracotta red. Puffing on his cigar, the captain guides the boat to its overnight mooring at the potteryproducing village of Yandabo. River sounds replace the drone of the motor: screeching birds, keening crickets, the slap and gloop of water against the banks. As his father weighs anchor, Min Min dishes up the evening meal: river catfish, cooked on an iron stove that sends swirls of grey smoke into the sky. Dusk turns to darkness, and the deck lights flicker on, white bulbs reflecting in the black water. ‘It is a good life on the river,’ the captain says, leaning against the Tai Win’s wheelhouse. ‘I have worked my whole life

on the water. Now, I find it hard to be in the city – too much traffic, too much noise. The river is where I belong.’ For a moment, he watches the boat’s lights dance and shift in the water, then disappears below deck for dinner. Take the 115-mile river trip from Mandalay to Bagan – most boat journeys involve a night’s mooring, and all meals are provided.

Essentials

Irrawaddy cruises Many boats ply the waters of the Irrawaddy, ranging from rough-and-ready, sleep-on-deck ferries to luxurious multi-decked houseboats complete with private cabins and en suite bathrooms. The two-day charter trip from Mandalay to Bagan on the Tai Win costs £420 including all meals and two basic cabins; book through Intrepid Travel (intrepidtravel.com). Paukan Cruises is a more luxurious option, with four deluxe vessels including a vintage 1947 cruise boat. Prices start from around £450 per night for two people, including food and a private twin cabin (ayravatacruises.com).

PHOTOGRAPH ON PREVIOUS PAGE: NADIA ISAKOVA/AWL IMAGES

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ARLY MORNING IS ALWAYS the busiest time of day on Mandalay’s quayside. Moored along the riverbanks of Burma’s second city, scores of boats are being loaded for their journeys. Passengers cram on to ferries, searching for space on the crowded decks. Porters carry on crates of fruit and sacks of rice, balancing loads on their heads as they cross planks leaning against the boats’ gunwales. Beside the keels, children splash and somersault in the water, and villagers from the nearby shanty town rinse their clothes in the shallows. Then, cargoes stored, the boats pull away from the banks, turning into the current with a chug and a belch of diesel smoke before disappearing downstream. Known in Burmese as the Ayeyarwady, the Irrawaddy is the longest river within the country, unfurling for 1,350 miles from its source near the Tibetan border to the Andaman Sea. Bisecting the country into east and west, the Irrawaddy is to Burma what the Ganges is to India: half spiritual symbol, half industrial thoroughfare. In the days before the British built the country’s first railways and modern roads, the Irrawaddy carried most of the country’s traffic, and it’s still busy with boats. Barges stacked with timber hug the deep-water channels, chugging past ramshackle ferries commuting between the river villages and fishermen casting their nets in the currents. But the Irrawaddy is more than a glorified motorway; it’s a sacred river, too. Along the banks, whitewashed stupas line the water’s edge, containing the ashes of saints or other

G R E AT E S C A P E

BURMA

Captain Thein Swe Oo and his son Min Min on the deck of the Tai Win – like Burmese people generally, father and son do not share a family name

September 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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ROME

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Rome NE W WAY S TO FAL L I N LOVE W I T H

From revving a Vespa through handsome piazzas to peeking through secret keyholes, we find a dozen new ways to unlock the Eternal City’s immortal beauty WORDS OLIVER SMITH l PHOTOGRAPHS SUSAN WRIGHT

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R I DE A V ESPA Ancient Rome may have been built on the principle of straight roads, but all that went out the window long ago. This is a city where alleyways zig-zag manically up the hillsides and where everything from the ice-cream van to the hearse gets driven like a dodgem. According to Claudio Serra, there is only one way to navigate this pandemonium. ‘In Rome our streets are crazy – the only way to reach everywhere is on a Vespa,’ he insists. ‘You can park a Vespa outside the Pantheon; you can drive it along the motorway. It means freedom.’ In addition to running a small Vespa museum, Claudio offers Vespa-back tours of Rome and private scooter hire from his store near the Colosseum. Riders whoosh through the many species of roads in Rome: the multi-lane highways that squeeze through gaps in ancient city walls; back streets where laundry lines flaps overhead; and the confusing roads that end at a piazza – before re-emerging on the other side, as if regaining a lost train of thought. Vespa drivers stay eerily composed as they weave through the traffic – perhaps because, as Claudio points out, they are sitting, ‘as comfortably as if they are in their own living room’. ❤ Rates for scooter hire at Bici & Baci begin at £12 per hour; bicibaci.com September 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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ROME

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C YC LE OV E R ROMAN C O B B LE S O N T HE APPIAN WAY All roads lead to Rome, but none do so more gracefully than the Appian Way. Built as the king of all Roman highways in 312BC, it is a road more storied than any other in history. Olympic sprinters have raced down it, armies fought along it in WWII, 6,000 followers of Spartacus were crucified by the roadside and St Peter heard Christ’s footsteps beside his own on its cobbles. These days, divine apparitions in the lay-bys are uncommon – although this doesn’t stop modern Roman cyclists pedalling the nine-milelong stretch closest to the city. Bearing south from the gridlocked streets of southern Rome, the blaring of car horns soon recedes to a distant toot as cyclists enter a pocket of Lazio countryside miraculously preserved at the heart of the city. The scent of wild mint hangs in the air as the road passes crumbling Roman villas and medieval towers. Technically the Appian Way is open to all traffic – very occasionally a car passes with the driver jabbing at his satnav in confusion. But much of the time cyclists find themselves alone but for the ghosts of wayfarers past. ❤ Bike hire is available from the office at Via Appia Antica 58/60 from £2.50 per hour; parcoappiaantica.it Many parts of the road have grooves left by centuries of carts and chariots dating back to Roman times

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Children play at a ‘nasone’ on Piazza di San Silvestro, close to the Via del Corso

DRINK F RO M A ‘ B IG N O S E’ On roasting hot summer days, the saviour of every Roman citizen is the nasone or ‘big nose’. This is no genetic quirk, but a nickname for the 2,500 drinking fountains dotted about the city: from the one gurgling quietly beside the roaring fountains of the Piazza Navona, to the pump on the Aventine hill which spurts out water from a tap the shape of a wolf’s mouth. So called because of the shape of the spout, the fountains were first installed in the late 19th century, but are part of a proud Roman tradition dating back to the great aqueducts of ancient Rome (it’s rumoured some nasoni use millennia-old plumbing systems). Nasoni are used variously by locals, thirsty sparrows, bathing dogs, kids starting water fights and curiously few tourists – and though the iron spout can get very hot, the water is always clean and miraculously cool. ❤ To find your nearest fountain in Rome, download the I Nasoni di Roma app from the Apple iTunes store; free September 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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The Photographer’s Story Julian Love

Handmade London The idea of photographing people who make things by hand came from seeing that scene explode in east London, where I live, over the last couple of years. Workshops have started up, people are selling products and food made in more traditional ways, and consumers are beginning to value that more and more. I think there’s a backlash against the disposable culture that built up in the Noughties, and people are deciding they’d rather spend good money on something that’s beautifully made and will last. I started by shooting a couple of friends, and it went from there – the workshops were ideal spaces for making beautifully lit portraits. I found the variety of things they were making very interesting, though I also noticed common themes: everyone was incredibly enthusiastic about what they did, and had also spent quite a long time refining their skill and their craft. It takes time and energy to make a business like that work – most people don’t realise how much.

Julian Love is a travel and lifestyle photographer whose previous projects include series about Jerusalem and the British landscape (julianlove.com). See more of Julian’s Handmade London images at handmade-london.com.

The textile designer NAOMI PAUL Naomi is a friend of mine, and this was the very first picture I shot in the series. She makes a lot of different textiles, but at the moment she’s focusing on crocheted lampshades, which have been a big hit. They come in all sorts of sizes; the one she’s making here might take about two days of work, crocheting around a wire frame. She works in an old warehouse, up a flight of rickety wooden stairs. On one wall there’s a huge shelving unit full of yarn, and stacked against another are lots of the frames she uses – some are two metres across. from £950; Bethnal Green; naomipaul.co.uk

Located in a River, prominent position on the Vltava Mamaison Hotel the Vltava River, Riverside standsMamaison Hotel Riverside stands out thanks to its out thanks to its beautiful Artbeautiful NoveauArtfaçade Noveau façadeviews. and enviable and enviable views.

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taverna (milia.gr; from £75). (minosbeach.com; from £215). scan this code to download our booking app a visit just to eat in the superb bungalows have a luxurious feel with rustic furnishings. It’s worth The whitewashed villas and been transformed into cottages grounds right down to the beach. Sixteen stone farmhouses have leading artists adorning the mountain settlement of Milia. gallery, with sculptures from Blog – http://bit.ly/LrCrete Crete on the Laterooms.com trailblazers is the isolated the north coast, is a veritable art Discover more of Minoan One of Crete’s ecotourism Minos Beach Art Hotel, on imagination. WHERE TO STAY to his overly vivid (casa-leone.com; from £95). mountain backdrop. sacrificed accuracy overlooking the harbour by a wonderfully picturesque – many archaeologists feel he are spacious, with balconies bus-service-crete-ktel.com). archaeological site completed continue to be controversial boutique hotel. The rooms as Knossos (singles from £1; Palace is a fascinating Minoan and go to major attractions such into a romantic, family-run stay clear of Malia, but Malia l Evans’ reconstructions Culture vultures might aim to time as the pharaohs of Egypt. com). Buses run across the island old town that’s been converted existed in Europe at the same (week’s hire from £235; europcar. Venetian residence in Hania’s from Laterooms.com the lowdown Casa Leone is a 15th-century of this sophistication had to get around this huge island was stunned that a civilization Athens. Hiring a car is a good way ADVErTisEMEnT FEATUrE outside these times, change at l The archaeological world overlooking the Aegean Sea Neolithic civilization beneath. airports (from £200; ryanair.com); A terrace at Casa Leone as well as remains of a Newcastle and all London bsa.ac.uk/knossos. a Bronze Age Minoan palace, Leeds Bradford, Manchester, video tour of Knossos at and, over 35 years, unearthed Cardiff, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Take a virtual step-by-step civilization derived from Crete including Birmingham, Bristol, lonelyplanet.com (£2.99). from numerous UK cities, l He believed the Mycenaean be downloaded at from 1884–1908. of the island or central Iraklio chapters from the book can Oxford’s Ashmolean Museum fly directly to Hania in the west guide to the island and Arthur Evans was curator of Monarch, Ryanair and Thomson (£12.99) is a comprehensive easyJet, flythomascook, Jet2, l British archaeologist Sir Lonely Planet’s Crete EXCAVATOR OF KNOSSOS During the summer (May–Oct), FURTHER READING

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SIR ARTHU Crete KNOSSOS Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania Iraklio from Crete Take a virtual step-bys at central civilization derived of the island or ed unearth video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT Leone logical world all London A terrace at Casa l The archaeo Newcastle and ion Aegean Sea n civilizat a ryanair.com); dow overlooking the was stunned that the lowoms.co airports (from £200; m change at ication had from Latero of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). overly vivid more of Minoan his to overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover ms.com ; from £95). imagination. Crete on the Lateroo rete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrC Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr 132 Lonely Planet

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Crete Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania a virtual step-by from Crete Take central Iraklio s at civilization derived of the island or unearthed video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT logical world at Casa Leone all London terrace archaeo A The l Newcastle and Aegean Sea n a civilization ryanair.com); overlooking the was stunned that the lowdowm airports (from £200; change at ication had from Laterooms.co of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). of Minoan to his overly vivid overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover more ms.com ; from £95). tion. on the Lateroo imagina Crete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrCrete Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

132 Lonely Planet Traveller July 2014

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132 Lonely Planet

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R EVANS:

SIR ARTHU Crete KNOSSOS Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania Iraklio from Crete Take a virtual step-bys at central civilization derived of the island or ed unearth video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT Leone logical world all London A terrace at Casa l The archaeo Newcastle and ion Aegean Sea n civilizat a ryanair.com); dow overlooking the was stunned that the lowoms.co airports (from £200; m change at ication had from Latero of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). overly vivid more of Minoan his to overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover ms.com ; from £95). imagination. Crete on the Lateroo rete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrC Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr 132 Lonely Planet

Drinking

Entertainment

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Sights & Activiti

Eating

2014 Traveller July

MINI GUIDE e

Where to stay

Culture in Cret Activites

ow The know-h THE

ials Crete essent

: SIR ARTHUR EVANS KNOSSOS

NG

FURTHER READI

Crete Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania a virtual step-by from Crete Take central Iraklio s at civilization derived of the island or unearthed video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT logical world at Casa Leone all London terrace archaeo A The l Newcastle and Aegean Sea n a civilization ryanair.com); overlooking the was stunned that the lowdowm airports (from £200; change at ication had from Laterooms.co of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). of Minoan to his overly vivid overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover more ms.com ; from £95). tion. on the Lateroo imagina Crete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrCrete Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

Tours

SIR ARTHU Crete KNOSSOS Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania Iraklio from Crete Take a virtual step-bys at central civilization derived of the island or ed unearth video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT Leone logical world all London A terrace at Casa l The archaeo Newcastle and ion Aegean Sea n civilizat a ryanair.com); dow overlooking the was stunned that the lowoms.co airports (from £200; m change at ication had from Latero of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). overly vivid more of Minoan his to overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover ms.com ; from £95). imagination. Crete on the Lateroo rete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrC Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr 132 Lonely Planet

MINI GUIDE e

Tours

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Shopping

Drinking

Entertainment

es

Sights & Activiti

Eating

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Activites

132 Lonely Planet

2014 Traveller July

ow The know-h THE

ials Crete essent

: SIR ARTHUR EVANS KNOSSOS

NG

FURTHER READI

Crete Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania a virtual step-by from Crete Take central Iraklio s at civilization derived of the island or unearthed video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT logical world at Casa Leone all London terrace archaeo A The l Newcastle and Aegean Sea n a civilization ryanair.com); overlooking the was stunned that the lowdowm airports (from £200; change at ication had from Laterooms.co of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). of Minoan to his overly vivid overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover more ms.com ; from £95). tion. on the Lateroo imagina Crete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrCrete Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

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Culture in Crete

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Culture in

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EVANS: Crete SIR ARTHUR Lonely Planet’s OF KNOSSOS comprehensive EXCAVATOR Sir (£12.99) is a island and l British archaeologist of guide to the TRANSPORT (May–Oct), was curator the book can Arthur Evans Museum chapters from During the summer Jet2, at Oxford’s Ashmolean be downloaded (£2.99). easyJet, flythomascook, m and Thomson from 1884–1908. Mycenaean lonelyplanet.co Monarch, Ryanair in the west the step-by-step l He believed Hania from Crete Take a virtual fly directly to Knossos at civilization derived unearthed or central Iraklio video tour of of the island years, os. UK cities, and, over 35 bsa.ac.uk/knoss from numerous Minoan palace, Bristol, a Bronze Age of a including Birmingham, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. FEATUrE Cardiff, Edinburgh, ADVErTisEMEnT Manchester, Neolithic civilization world Leeds Bradford, London Casa Leone n l The archaeological all A terrace at Sea the Aegean Newcastle and that a civilization the lowdowm overlooking was stunned £200; ryanair.com); had airports (from at from Laterooms.co of this sophistication times, change might aim to at the same outside these way 15th-century a is Culture vultures but Malia a car is a good existed in Europe Egypt. Casa Leone Malia, Athens. Hiring pharaohs of in Hania’s stay clear of Minoan time as the this huge island Venetian residence to get around Palace is a fascinating £235; europcar. old town that’s been converted l Evans’ reconstructions site completed archaeological picturesque (week’s hire from be controversial island family-run continue to run across the feel he into a romantic, by a wonderfully com). Buses The rooms attractions such – many archaeologists mountain backdrop. boutique hotel. balconies and go to major from £1; with sacrificed accuracy are spacious, of Minoan as Knossos (singles vivid the harbour -ktel.com). Discover more to his overly overlooking Laterooms.com bus-service-crete ; from £95). Crete on the ete imagination. (casa-leone.com Blog – http://bit.ly/LrCr Art Hotel, on STAY Minos Beach art WHERE TO is a veritable ecotourism the north coast, One of Crete’s sculptures from the isolated gallery, with trailblazers is of Milia. adorning the leading artists beach. mountain settlement app have down to the our booking farmhouses to download grounds right scan this code Sixteen stone villas and into cottages The whitewashed luxurious feel been transformed It’s worth a bungalows have ; from £215). with rustic furnishings. eat in the superb (minosbeach.com a visit just to from £75). taverna (milia.gr;

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

Atop thePlaza MTRHotel MongisKok East Station, Royal conveniently Royal Plaza Hotel connected to is conveniently connected to major transport major transport links and has links and has excellent views excellent views of the city. of the city.

ROYAL PLAZA HOTEL – MAMAISON HOTEL ROYAL MAMAISON HONGPLAZA KONGHOTEL – RIVERSIDE –HOTEL PRAGUE HONG KONG RIVERSIDE – PRAGUE Atop the MTR Mong Kok East Station, Located in a prominent position on Planet 132 Lonely

THE HOWARD – THE HOWARD – EDINBURGH EDINBURGH When you’re staying in the Scottish

page 127 CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

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S I X T H E M E D G U I D E S TO TA K E O N T H E P E R F E C T S H O RT B R E A K

Mini Guides SEPTEMBER 2014

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The Horse and Groom in Bourton-on-the-Hill

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OLD SWAN & MINSTER MILL

Set on a gentle slope leading to the meandering River Windrush, Minster Lovell is a lovely village with a cluster of stone cottages beside this ancient pub and riverside mill. Choose between beamed 17th-century periodstyle rooms or contemporarylooking 19th-century rooms (oldswanandminstermill.com; Old Minster; from £165).

MINI GUIDE

Cotswolds pubs The heart of many a quaint village, the pub continues to draw visitors with a mix of history, fine ales and food, charming bucolic views and welcoming beds for the night.

Historic charmers THE FLEECE

Only a select handful of pubs can claim the distinction of being owned by the National Trust. This half-timbered building is medieval in origin and mostly 17th-century in its present form. Historic features include a collection of pewterware and circles painted on the flagstone floor to stop witches coming down the chimney (thefleeceinn. co.uk; The Cross, Bretforton).

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FALKLAND ARMS

Tucked away in the gorgeous village of Great Tew is this 16thcentury pub, whose original flagstone floors, open fireplaces and low beams provide historic charm. The pub serves a fine collection of real ales – such as Wadworth’s Swordfish and Henry’s Original IPA – from its age-old hand pumps, there are boxes of snuff and clay pipes behind the bar, dusty beer mugs and jugs hanging from the beams and a small garden (falkland arms.co.uk; 19-21 The Green).

LION INN

A coaching inn that dates back to the 15th century in the sleepy town of Winchcombe, this pub has been sensitively restored. Seven individually decorated en suite double bedrooms, including a converted hayloft, feature exposed brickwork, beams and antique furniture, plus nice touches such as fresh flowers and luxury linens (thelionwinchcombe.co.uk; North St; from £100).

A king-size bed in Room 4 – the ‘Mini-Suite’ – at the Lion Inn

THE FIVE ALLS

Located in the village of Filkins, between Burford and Lechladeon-Thames, on the edge of the Cotswolds, this 18th-century inn has four cosy rooms decorated in neutral tones and kitted out with locally sourced artwork and organic toiletries. The excellent restaurant delivers mains such as chargrilled gigot lamb steak with garlic roasties and salsa verde (thefiveallsfilkins.co.uk; Filkins, Lechdale; from £110).

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The front garden of the Falkland Arms in full summer bloom

WOOLPACK

Laurie Lee captured the idyll of Cotswold village life in Cider With Rosie, a memoir of his prewar childhood in the Slad Valley. In the centenary of his birth, it seems fitting to sup a cider (or Uley Bitter) in the 16th-century Woolpack, Lee’s local in Slad, which features four little connecting rooms with fireplaces and books for sale, as well as photographs and memorabilia of the author, and has lovely valley views (01452 813429; Slad Rd, Stroud).

The large garden of the Horse and Groom, a Grade-II-listed Georgian inn in tiny Bourtonon-the-Hill, features damson trees and plenty of umbrellas for shade. The house brew Goff’s Jouster provides the refreshment and the hilltop setting affords the stunning views of the surrounding countryside (horseandgroom. info; pint of Jouster £2.90).

BEST FOOD CREDENTIALS

The Wild Rabbit, in pretty Kingham village, was renovated last year and uses seasonal, often organic, ingredients, heritage breeds and British artisan produce. Expect rabbit and pickled-vegetable salad, followed by poached wild halibut with oyster, razor clams, seaweed and shellfish broth (thewildrabbit.co.uk; Church St; mains from £13.50).

Chicken, asparagus and potato dauphinoise at The Wild Rabbit

BEST FOR BEER

The Ebrington Arms, two miles from Chipping Campden, is a 17th-century inn with open fires, exposed beams and numerous CAMRA accolades. It’s just launched its own brewery, the Yubberton Brewing Company, and produces two bitters for the pub – Yubby Bitter and Yawnie Bitter – as well as featuring guest ales from local breweries (theebringtonarms.co.uk; pint of Yubby Bitter £3).

TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS

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