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Contents AUGUST 2014

Easy Trips p39

ON THE COVER

Great Escape Provence p49

Introducing Lonely Planet Traveller Welcome to the August issue of Lonely Planet Traveller. Can you keep a secret? Neither can we. This month you’ll find 40 travel secrets inside the magazine – big and small, near and far – picked out by Lonely Planet experts around the world. One of the azure-blue Calanques along the coast of Provence graces the cover of this 6

Lonely Planet Traveller August 2014

issue. As with many places in this perenially popular part of France, it’s easy to peel away from the crowds to see it from a lesser-known angle. This and four other Provençal highlights appear in the Great Escape. Half a world away, Laos is the forgotten member of the Southeast Asian club – we’ve gone to sample its enigmatic

cultural mix. Back in Europe, the Bohuslän Coast is a gastronomic revelation to non-Swedes. And there are 37 more travel secrets to uncover this month, spread out from Dalston to Peru. You’ll also find stand-out photography in Postcards and six Mini Guides, including Glasgow, Madrid and Boston. Enjoy the August issue!

PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER BÖHI, NEIL FARRIN/AWL IMAGES, MARC FERNANDEZ DIAZ/GETTY IMAGES, MATT MUNRO, SIMON URWIN

Remote hideaways p32

DESTINATION INDEX

Travel Secrets p64 Culture in Laos p80

Coastal Sweden p92

The Photographer’s Story p104

Features 64 TRAVEL SECRETS From faraway New Zealand and Patagonia to our own fair shores in Britain, we’ve asked an array of Lonely Planet experts for their favourite places that aren’t yet on the radar 80 LAOS Discover the culture of an enigmatic country squeezed in between Thailand and Vietnam, with a history of communism and French colonialism 92 SWEDISH COAST Between Gothenburg and the Norwegian border, the Bohuslän Coast is a testament to Sweden’s love of fresh seafood and island hideaways 104 THE PHOTOGRAPHER’S STORY One secret hidden to travellers for the time being – the Afghan city of Herat is a showcase for the mesmerising art of the tile-maker

Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings Sights

Tours

Drinking

Beaches

Festivals

Entertainment

Activities

Sleeping

Courses

Eating

Shopping Information & Transport

All prices correct at time of going to press. Prices for hotel rooms are for double, en suite rooms with breakfast in low season, unless otherwise stated. Flight prices are for the cheapest return fares, including one piece of hold baggage, unless otherwise stated.

Afghanistan p104 Argentina p27, p77 Australia New South Wales p77 Queensland p33 Bhutan p33 Cayman Islands p75 China Sichuan p17 Colombia p70 Cuba Trinidad p18 Czech Republic Prague p75 England Cornwall p69 Cumbria p33 Henley-on-Thames p42 Kent p45 London p27, p41, p42, p73 France Burgundy p119 Loire Valley p46 Paris p68 Provence p49 Germany Berlin p35 Greece Zakynthos p43 Guyana p66 Iceland p40 India Kashmir p26 Rajasthan p78 Ireland County Sligo p68 Italy Florence p14 Lecce p70 Rome p26 Siena p125 Südtirol p29 Venice p31 Japan p27 Okinawa p72 Tokyo p12 Jordan p26 Wadi Rum p45 Kenya p26 Laos p80 Montenegro p78 Morocco Marrakesh p17 Taroudant p65 Mozambique p129, p130 Nepal p74 Netherlands Amsterdam p71 New Zealand p73 Norway p71 Palestinian Territories p68 Peru p71 Portugal Algarve p46 Lisbon p73 Romania p29 Scotland Fife p67 Glasgow p117 Slovenia p67 Spain Andalucía p26, p74 Madrid p123 Swaziland p67 Sweden Bohuslän p92 Switzerland Appenzell p32 Zürich p18, p121 Taiwan Taipei p70 Turkey p73 USA Arizona p10, p33 Boston p127 California p67 New York p23 South Dakota p68 Vermont p70 Wales Carmarthenshire p44

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Postcards WHERE YOU’VE BEEN AND WHAT YOU’VE SEEN

POSTCARDS Why not get involved? We’d love to include your best new travel photos (at 300dpi) and the inspiring stories behind them. Send them with a pic of yourself to postcards@lptraveller.co.uk

At 1,450 miles long, the Colorado River flows through five US states and two Mexican states, before emptying into the Gulf of California

ARIZONA, USA

Mindbending Photographing the iconic spot of Horseshoe Bend had been on my wish list for a long time. Having spent the day at Antelope Canyon, near Page, I arrived at the trailhead to this lookout point just as the sun was beginning to set. The trail is short and I found myself literally sprinting across it to try to get into position to capture the sunset. The overlook has a sheer drop off and is probably not the best location if you have a fear of heights. However, the view was worth the hike: the colours in the sky at sunset and the Navajo Sandstone sculpted by the meandering Colorado River were simply spectacular.

Sapna Reddy is a radiologist and photographer based in California August 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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Globetrotter A WORLD OF TRAVEL NEWS AND DISCOVERIES

Local Knowledge

My New York CADI STORM is a bartender at one of New York’s hottest new venues, Tao Downtown, a cavernous space filled with Asian-inspired art and ephemera, hidden underground in the city’s Meatpacking District. She’s always on the lookout for new places to indulge her twin passions in life: food and cocktails. Originally from Upstate New York, Cadi has lived in the city for six years – currently in Bushwick, Brooklyn – and loves to make (and drink) margaritas. taodowntown.com

PHOTOGRAPH: SIVAN ASKAYO

TURN OVER FOR CADI’S LOCAL TIPS

GLOBETROTTER

Local Knowledge

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u I’m really into food, and one of my favourite places to have dinner is Il Buco Alimentari (1) in NoHo. It’s a very good modern Italian restaurant and I’ve tried pretty much everything on the menu. I’m a fan of their salads, and they do a great charred octopus. The dishes are all full of creative, interesting flavours, and the ingredients are all so fresh. It’s got a very open, relaxed atmosphere, and feels quite rustic. ilbucovineria.com u I don’t really do breakfast, but I do a lot of brunch – which is very New York. The Stanton Social in the Lower East Side does fun variations on classic brunch dishes, like French toast sticks and Oreo cookie pancakes. On a day off I would definitely have a cocktail with brunch, something like a mimosa. Lavo (2), in Midtown, has a great cocktail list and does classy weekend brunch parties, where the food is served with sparklers, and there’s music and dancing. stantonsocial.com; lavony.com u I love New York in the summer, and Central Park (3) is the perfect place to lounge on a blanket and read a book. The people-watching is fantastic. Sometimes I bring my longboard for a bit of skateboarding, but I’m not very good. The park is full of hidden treasures – like secret gardens – if you are willing to search for them. centralparknyc.org u My passion for food got me into mixology, and New York has such a vibrant bar scene. Madam Geneva (4), on the Bowery, has a really good cocktail list, especially for gin lovers. It is small and dark, with great music and a local crowd. My new favourite is ZZ’s Clam Bar (5) in SoHo – it’s kind of an insider place, but I’m sure it won’t stay that way as it is one of the best dining experiences I’ve ever had in New York. It’s a raw seafood restaurant, but you can tell how much thought was put into their cocktail menu. Drinks are named after different flavours – like pistachio, butter or coffee [shown]. It has a very pretty interior, and only seats 12, so make sure you get a reservation way ahead of your visit. madamgeneva-nyc.com; zzsclambar.com

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PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHAEL GRIMM, AGEFOTOSTOCK/SUPERSTOCK, DYLAN + JENI, JASON MICHAEL LANG, ED MENASHY

‘My average shift is 10pm to 4am, so I often see the city in darkness. It’s a different experience – New York really thrives during the night hours’

GLOBETROTTER

Travel News

Arrivals New Tours ROME BY CAR Guests at the Jumeirah Grand Hotel Via Veneto can now take a tour of Rome’s most beautiful sites in a vehicle emblematic of the city’s enduring style, the classic Fiat 500 (from £200 for two; jumeirah. com; you can also book a tour through rome500exp.com).

KASHMIR BY BOAT Parts of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir are opening to tourists (see gov.uk/ fco). Stay on a restored houseboat on Srinagar’s Lake Nagin – the perfect holiday for people who hate cruises (10 nights from £2,420 pp, incl flights; asianexplorations.com).

New Hotel Nothing to do with Buzz Lightyear’s favourite catchphrase, the &Beyond Kichwa Tembo lodge reopens after renovation this month in a concession on the edge of Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve. Simple canvas tents look out to distant grasslands where big predators lurk, with plenty of wildlife within the camp itself (from £230 pp; andbeyond.com).

Need an excuse to visit Jordan? It’s 25 years since Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade put Petra on the movie map. See visitpetra.jo, and also p45.

We do not follow maps to buried treasure, and ‘X’ never, ever marks the spot.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ADAM BENNETT, STEVE BRIGHT/ALAMY, THE EXPLORATIONS COMPANY, C. LUCASFILM/EVERETT/REX, MODE IMAGES/ALAMY, ERIC NATHAN/ALAMY, OTROS CAMINOS, HAUSER PATRICE/SCOPE IMAGE/CORBIS, TEIGHMARE LTD, CHINMAY VASAVADA

CÓRDOBA TO GRANADA BY BIKE Discover quieter corners of Spain on a self-guided cycling tour. The route takes in rural settings and vineyard views, with plenty of opportunities for tapas breaks (seven nights from £605 pp, or from £814 pp for a more leisurely route; freedomtreks.co.uk).

Travel New HotelNews The Shangri-La Hotel at the Shard, London, is now open. Its 202 swanky rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows and occupy the 34th to 52nd floors of the tallest building in Western Europe (from £425; shangri-la.com). The opening got us curious: what other surprises lie behind the shiny glass of the 87-storey building?

SUMMIT At 310 metres, the Shard knocked the 235-metre One Canada Square into second place to become London’s major lightning magnet.

New Tour For a thousand years, Japanese pilgrims have walked the wild Kii Mountains to the three Grand Shrines of Kumano – perhaps the most perfectly scenic of which is the Kumano Nachi Taisha (pictured). TransIndus is now offering the chance to follow in their footsteps, with a 14-day itinerary taking in the pilgrimage trails, as well as Tokyo, Mount Fuji, Hiroshima and Kyoto (from £3,500 including flights; transindus.co.uk).

FLOOR 52 GŎNG is the highest bar in London and has the prices to match. Cocktails start at £17, while the Waterloo Punch Bowl is £120.

FLOOR 72 During construction, workers found a fox wandering way up here. He is thought to have entered via a central stairwell.

FLOOR 35 The chandelier in the lobby of the Shangri-La Hotel weighs a mighty 4,250kg – more than the bulk of a Hummer.

FLOORS 4–28 Of the Shard’s 72 habitable floors, 25 are devoted to office space (still 70 per cent unlet). Each floor has a winter garden (pictured).

PART Y PAST Y

Latin cousin to the Cornish pasty, the empanada is most beloved in Argentina, where the pastry is stuffed with seafood, beef, lamb or fruit, and served at festivals and other celebrations. With the fad for Peruvian ceviche on the wane, could this be the next South American food to catch on here? ¡Sí, sí!, say the authors of Argentinian Street Food, out now (£14.99; Murdoch Books).

GROUND FLOOR A lift whisks guests up to the hotel reception on the 35th floor in a mere 28 seconds.

August 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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Easy Trips ummer for high s

including uHorse riding in Iceland uA beach break in Greece uStargazing in Jordan uAn oyster festival in Kent

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Feel the force of a Norse horse in Iceland The size of a Shetland pony but with the strength of a Shire thoroughbred, the Icelandic horse has a special place in the nation’s heart: a pocket-sized steed that gallops capably across the island’s wilderness landscapes. Tactfully overlook the fact they’re also found in stews and in the frozen sections of Icelandic supermarkets, and instead make the most of long summer days by taking a short riding course atop these delectable equines. One of the best places to

practise your horsemanship is Home at Hestasport, a ranch set among low-slung mountains near Skagafjörður bay (a quiet spot even by Icelandic measures of remoteness). After becoming acquainted with their horse, riders travel several miles a day, clipclopping through mountain streams and trotting through meadows full of wildflowers. Riders find their stable in chalet-esque cottages, arranged around a steaming hot tub for revitalising saddle-weary limbs.

MAKE IT HAPPEN Tour operator In the Saddle offers a four-day riding holiday at Home at Hestasport suitable for beginners, spending up to five hours a day in the saddle. Cottages are self-catering, with shops close by (from £489 per person excluding flights; inthesaddle.com). Iceland’s Keflavík airport is served by Wow Air from London Gatwick, easyJet from Luton and Icelandair from Glasgow,

Heathrow and Manchester (from £140; easyjet.com). From here it’s a four-hour drive to Hestasport – or catch an internal flight to Akureyri (from £95; airiceland.is), from where the drive is one hour. Hire a car at Keflavík or Akureyri (from £40 per day; arguscarhire.com). You’ll likely need to overnight in Reykjavík: the smart Icelandair Marina Hotel offers sleek rooms facing the docks (from £160; icelandairhotels.com).

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARC FERNANDEZ DIAZ/GETTY IMAGES, ANDREW MEREDITH, YU FUJIWARA

Icelandic horses have a unique gait known as ‘tölt’, in which at least one foot is on the ground at any time, giving the rider a smoother journey on rough ground

Great Escape P R O V E N C E

TRAVEL SECRETS

Even this enduringly popular region has its hidden sides – parasol-free beaches in the recesses of Mediterranean fjords, a painter’s source of inspiration among untouched mountain scenery, a watery wilderness roamed by cowboys, and secret corners sprung back to life in France’s most ancient city WORDS DUNCAN CRAIG l PHOTOGRAPHS MATT MUNRO

G R E AT E S C A P E

Houses on the Place de Lenche, in Marseille’s old port-side quarter of Le Panier

Plan your trip 1

Explore headlands and peaceful inlets along the majestic coastal stretch of Les Calanques (p54)

2

Head to timeless, vineyard-draped Dentelles de Montmirail to uncover centuries of wine production (p56)

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Visit the laid-back Camargue to see ‘gardians’ rounding up bulls on the region’s famed white horses (p60)

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Climb narrow streets to soak up the ambiance and creative energy of the rejuvenated old town of Marseille (p62)

MAP ILLUSTRATION: ALEX VERHILLE. PHOTOGRAPHS: WIM LANCLUS/ALAMY, MATT MUNRO, ZUMA PRESS INC/ALAMY

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Experience the untamed nature of the mountainous Alpilles, a region that inspired Van Gogh (p58)

1. Les Calanques

Don your hiking boots and pack your swimmers for a land-and-sea adventure taking in vertiginous cliffs and secluded beaches in the region known as the ‘Mediterranean fjords’

‘E

ACH CALANQUE HAS A distinct character,’ says André Bernard as he leads the way down a stony path to a sliver of beach cupped by sparse limestone cliffs. ‘Some are calm, some are very wild, just like people.’ André is nearer the latter – in the nicest possible sense. As he walks he gesticulates in an unrestrained manner, muttering ‘magnifique’ to no-one in particular. When he’s not guiding groups around Mont Blanc high in the Alps, he’s here, striding along the trails that weave through this starkly beautiful coastline. He glides down the loose stones and drops two-footed on to the creamy arc of Port Pin, one of the easternmost of the 24 calanques, or inlets, on this 12-mile stretch of coast. Most visitors head to the calanques that lie closest to Marseille and Cassis, but it’s easy to find solitude if you delve deeper into France’s newest national park. A cuckoo calls out, and wild rosemary mingles with the scent of pines. As the sun crests the headland, the first trickle of walkers begins to emerge at the treeline. André points out a trail and sets off. The path meanders in and out of sure-footed pines, enlivened with pockets of colour: the yellow of immortelle flowers, which don���t fade after picking; the purply starbursts of globe daisies. ‘I’ve been exploring the Calanques since I was eight,’ says Andre. ‘On the main paths you see plenty of people, but you step away from these and it’s just the birds, the wind, the sun... and you.’ Reaching an outcrop, he gestures down at Calanque d’En Vau, a vertical 150 metres below. At its mouth, waves detonate into mushroom clouds of spray but, cradled deep inside the inlet, the beach is gently stroked by an unruffled sea of implausible aquamarine. The steep path down strays inland before emerging at the deserted shingle beach, where the water is cool and inviting. ‘We have a saying,’ says André, ‘Les Calanques se meritent. It means that these pleasures have to be earned.’ A pause. ‘Of course, it’s a lot easier by boat.’ An hour later, André’s old friend Frédéric is deftly steering his boat through the waves. Port Pin passes, then d’En Vau. All is quiet, save for the throb of the outboard and some seagulls spiralling overhead. Far above, pines peer over the cliff edge like hesitant penguins on an ice floe. ‘This stretch is the real Calanques,’ says Frédéric, squinting up at the ridge known as La Grande Candelle. ‘It’s so wild – yet so close to Marseille.’

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Lonely Planet Traveller August 2014

The port of Cassis is famous for its local white wine. below André Bernard has a head for heights

Essentials

Frédéric rounds a rock pillar, disturbing a cormorant that takes flight in a peculiarly manic way, and eases the boat alongside a small triangular arch in the rock. At first it looks like a cave, though the interior is flooded with light. ‘We call this the cathedral,’ he says. ‘When it’s calmer you can actually swim in there and look all the way up to the sky. Every time I come out here, I find something different. Different, but always wonderful.’ Time to head inland – from Cassis it’s under two hours north by car to Séguret in the Dentelles de Montmirail on the A52, A8 and A7 motorways.

La Garrigue Set in a secluded spot above Cassis, this is a chambre d’hôtes in the image of its host, Sylvie – colourful, welcoming and mildly eccentric. There’s a mix of individually styled rooms: some are tucked beneath the family’s portion of the cerise-hued house; others are up in the eaves. Décor is rustic and unfussy, with low timber beds and patterned lamps, and there’s a pool on the terrace. There are easier places to find in Cassis – its snaking lanes and one-way systems will have the satnav scratching its head – but your persistence will be rewarded with a pleasing sense of isolation (from £80; lagarriguecassis.com). Les Calanques became a national park in 2012 (calanques-parcnational.fr). Walking and boat tours with André and Frédéric can be arranged through Cassis tourism (ot-cassis.com).

PROVENCE

G R E AT E S C A P E

The rock pillar known as the Doigt de Dieu (Finger of God) stands watch from the north side of the Calanque d’En Vau

Month 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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The Weather Islands, seven miles off Sweden’s Bohuslän Coast, were once home to the hardiest of seafarers

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North Seas

TRAVEL SECRETS

Set sail among the countless islands, craggy sounds and fishing villages of Sweden’s western coast to uncover one of Europe’s proudest culinary traditions WORDS OLIVER SMITH l PHOTOGRAPHY MATT MUNRO

August 2014 Lonely Planet Traveller

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from left Per and his brother Lars out on the deck of the Tuffa; shucking an oyster shell; the interior of the Karlssons’ 19th-century boathouse

The king’s own oysters

PER KARLSSON STANDS ON THE DECK OF HIS sailing boat, the Tuffa, a look of immense concentration on his face: the look of a man trying to remember where he might have left a set of keys. His lips are tightly pursed; in his left hand is a freshly shucked oyster shell and in his right hand a razor-sharp knife. The sea around is calm – little waves sparkle and glint as they catch the Swedish summer sunshine, and the water swishes musically against the boat’s mahogany hull. After a minute, Per takes a gulp and a broad smile extends across his face. ‘Eating an oyster is like a kiss from the sea,’ he announces, chucking the shell overboard. ‘You have to let it linger in your mouth for a long time so you can taste all of the flavours.’ Per’s business is wild oysters – dredging them from their beds on the shores of Sweden’s shellfish capital Grebbestad, and running a conservation group dedicated to his molluscy mates. His brother Lars is the third-fastest oyster shucker in the world (30 in two minutes 45 seconds), and together they run ‘safaris’ like this – sailing the coastal shallows, teaching their guests the art of savouring fresh oysters. They are part of a proud fishing tradition along Sweden’s Bohuslän Coast. Because of the cold water temperatures, seafood here grows more slowly, absorbing more minerals and becoming more delicious in the process. Here, the passage of the year is still marked by the changing menu of the oceans. Locals talk fondly of fishing for mackerel on midsummer nights, when the sun barely dips below the horizon. And then there are short winter days, waiting for a catch by a hole in the sea ice with the blinking lamps of lighthouses for company. The comings and goings in the sea are a source of limitless fascination: local newspapers carry 94

Lonely Planet Traveller August 2014

headlines like ‘World’s biggest halibut found (not edible)’ or ‘Herring price rise shock’. Lars throttles the engine, and we sail past tiny islets – chunks of rock visited only by sunbathing seals. From the city of Gothenburg in the south to the Norwegian border in the north, the Bohuslän Coast is dotted with thousands of islands like these. Seen on a map it looks as if Sweden were quietly disintegrating into the sea; nautical charts are full of big red marks showing where doomed ships met their end. Seen in real life it’s a more peaceful proposition: a Nordic Riviera of pebbly beaches and scarlet holiday homes. Soon we moor up beside Per’s own timber boathouse, where he teaches me the craft of oyster shucking – the delicate skill of using a knife to open up an oyster without opening up an artery in the process – and the proper way of consuming them (with a noisy, reverential slurp). Eating a native oyster makes for a strange sequence of flavours: first the tang of saltwater, then the silky meat of the oyster itself, and finally the aftertaste – a sweet, subtle flavour that loiters around the palate until bedtime. ‘Every oyster is different,’ explains Per. ‘Some are sweet, some are mineral-rich. This is the reason why I never get sick of eating them.’ Per isn’t alone in his passion for Swedish oysters. In the 17th century, the Swedish crown proclaimed all oysters were its property, and should henceforth be shipped to Stockholm. Legend goes that someone in the royal court ate a bad oyster and spent a long and rather reflective period on the royal lavatory. They emerged and decreed that oysters were to be the property of the masses once again. And Swedes up and down the land were very relieved.

SWEDISH COAST Built in 1952, the Tuffa (on the left) is moored near the natural oyster beds just outside the town of Grebbestad

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The Photographer’s Story Simon Urwin

above Omid Karimi paints a decorative tile. opposite The 800-year-old Friday Mosque in Herat, Afghanistan – its tile factory is thought to be the oldest in the world

The tile-maker of Herat Afghanistan’s tiled mosques are among the most beautiful buildings in the Islamic world. I visited several on a trip to Kabul, Bamiyan, Herat and Mazar-e Sharif. I’d been once before to Afghanistan and wanted to explore more of this often misrepresented country. I was at the Friday Mosque in Herat when I discovered its tile factory, a dark and smoky workshop lit by shafts of light from holes in the roof. Here I met Omid Karimi, head of a small team making tiles for religious and historic buildings. Some of these buildings have been damaged by earthquakes or the ongoing conflict, while the repair of outdoor tiles is constantly needed in Afghanistan due to the contrasts 104 Lonely Planet Traveller August 2014

between bitter winters and searing summers. Like so many Afghans, Omid was keen to sit down and chat over pots of green tea. He’d fallen into his profession when the Taliban took control of the country, forcing him to leave school and support his family. He could see the irony that if it hadn’t been for a tragic turn of events, he might not be doing a job he loves. For such an important artist, Omid was incredibly modest, but also proud of the artwork he was creating; he described it as a form of worship that made him feel closer to God. He said: ‘When I die, the next generation won’t know who I am, but they will be able to see my legacy and be moved by it.’ Like everyone I met, he was sick of

war, religious extremism and negative headlines, and just wanted to live a peaceful life. For me, photographing the tiled mosques was an opportunity to share a different side to Omid’s country – its rich artistic and cultural traditions – and to tell his story. He is a man of great talent doing something positive and with a passion, in the process helping to preserve Afghanistan’s heritage for future generations.

Simon Urwin is a regular contributor to Lonely Planet Traveller (see p80 for his feature on Laos, and simonurwin.com). For latest cautions on travel in Afghanistan, see gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice.

TRAVEL SECRETS

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SIR ARTHU Crete KNOSSOS Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania Iraklio from Crete Take a virtual step-bys at central civilization derived of the island or ed unearth video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT Leone logical world all London A terrace at Casa l The archaeo Newcastle and ion Aegean Sea n civilizat a ryanair.com); dow overlooking the was stunned that the lowoms.co airports (from £200; m change at ication had from Latero of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). overly vivid more of Minoan his to overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover ms.com ; from £95). imagination. Crete on the Lateroo rete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrC Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr

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R EVANS:

SIR ARTHU Crete KNOSSOS Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania Iraklio from Crete Take a virtual step-bys at central civilization derived of the island or ed unearth video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT Leone logical world all London A terrace at Casa l The archaeo Newcastle and ion Aegean Sea n civilizat a ryanair.com); dow overlooking the was stunned that the lowoms.co airports (from £200; m change at ication had from Latero of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). overly vivid more of Minoan his to overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover ms.com ; from £95). imagination. Crete on the Lateroo rete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrC Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr 132 Lonely Planet

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FURTHER READI

Crete Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania a virtual step-by from Crete Take central Iraklio s at civilization derived of the island or unearthed video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT logical world at Casa Leone all London terrace archaeo A The l Newcastle and Aegean Sea n a civilization ryanair.com); overlooking the was stunned that the lowdowm airports (from £200; change at ication had from Laterooms.co of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). of Minoan to his overly vivid overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover more ms.com ; from £95). tion. on the Lateroo imagina Crete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrCrete Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr

: SIR ARTHUR EVANS KNOSSOS

NG

FURTHER READI

Crete Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania a virtual step-by from Crete Take central Iraklio s at civilization derived of the island or unearthed video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT logical world at Casa Leone all London terrace archaeo A The l Newcastle and Aegean Sea n a civilization ryanair.com); overlooking the was stunned that the lowdowm airports (from £200; change at ication had from Laterooms.co of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). of Minoan to his overly vivid overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover more ms.com ; from £95). tion. on the Lateroo imagina Crete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrCrete Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

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Tours

SIR ARTHU Crete KNOSSOS Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania Iraklio from Crete Take a virtual step-bys at central civilization derived of the island or ed unearth video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT Leone logical world all London A terrace at Casa l The archaeo Newcastle and ion Aegean Sea n civilizat a ryanair.com); dow overlooking the was stunned that the lowoms.co airports (from £200; m change at ication had from Latero of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). overly vivid more of Minoan his to overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover ms.com ; from £95). imagination. Crete on the Lateroo rete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrC Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr 132 Lonely Planet

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132 Lonely Planet

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FURTHER READI

Crete Lonely Planet’s hensive EXCAVATOR OF logist Sir (£12.99) is a compre l British archaeo and TRANSPORT curator of (May–Oct), guide to the island Arthur Evans was During the summer the book can ean Museum chapters from ascook, Jet2, Oxford’s Ashmol at easyJet, flythom be downloaded and Thomson from 1884–1908. m (£2.99). Monarch, Ryanair in the west lonelyplanet.co d the Mycenaean -step l He believe fly directly to Hania a virtual step-by from Crete Take central Iraklio s at civilization derived of the island or unearthed video tour of Knosso UK cities, and, over 35 years, palace, os. from numerous bsa.ac.uk/knoss ham, Bristol, a Bronze Age Minoan a including Birming of gh, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. Cardiff, Edinbur ion , Manchester, FEATUrE Neolithic civilizat Leeds Bradford ADVErTisEMEnT logical world at Casa Leone all London terrace archaeo A The l Newcastle and Aegean Sea n a civilization ryanair.com); overlooking the was stunned that the lowdowm airports (from £200; change at ication had from Laterooms.co of this sophist outside these times, a good way at the same 15th-century might aim to car is Casa Leone is a existed in Europe s of Egypt. Athens. Hiring a Culture vultures but Malia huge island e in Hania’s stay clear of Malia,ing Minoan time as the pharaoh Venetian residenc to get around this ructions £235; europcar. been converted Palace is a fascinat completed l Evans’ reconst old town that’s (week’s hire from site controversial family-run across the island archaeological continue to be into a romantic, picturesque com). Buses run logists feel he by a wonderfully p. attractions such The rooms – many archaeo boutique hotel. and go to major mountain backdro y from £1; balconies sacrificed accurac are spacious, with as Knossos (singles harbour e-ktel.com). of Minoan to his overly vivid overlooking the bus-service-cret Discover more ms.com ; from £95). tion. on the Lateroo imagina Crete (casa-leone.com it.ly/LrCrete Hotel, on Blog – http://b WHERE TO STAY ism Minos Beach Art ecotour is a veritable art One of Crete’s the north coast, es from isolated gallery, with sculptur g the trailblazers is the ent of Milia. leading artists adornin the beach. mountain settlem ses have to grounds right down booking app Sixteen stone farmhou cottages to download our into villas and scan this code The whitewashed been transformed gs. It’s worth a luxurious feel bungalows have with rustic furnishin superb in the m; from £215). (minosbeach.co a visit just to eat ; from £75). taverna (milia.gr

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

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EVANS: Crete SIR ARTHUR Lonely Planet’s OF KNOSSOS comprehensive EXCAVATOR Sir (£12.99) is a island and l British archaeologist of guide to the TRANSPORT (May–Oct), was curator the book can Arthur Evans Museum chapters from During the summer Jet2, at Oxford’s Ashmolean be downloaded (£2.99). easyJet, flythomascook, m and Thomson from 1884–1908. Mycenaean lonelyplanet.co Monarch, Ryanair in the west the step-by-step l He believed Hania from Crete Take a virtual fly directly to Knossos at civilization derived unearthed or central Iraklio video tour of of the island years, os. UK cities, and, over 35 bsa.ac.uk/knoss from numerous Minoan palace, Bristol, a Bronze Age of a including Birmingham, Glasgow, as well as remains beneath. FEATUrE Cardiff, Edinburgh, ADVErTisEMEnT Manchester, Neolithic civilization world Leeds Bradford, London Casa Leone n l The archaeological all A terrace at Sea the Aegean Newcastle and that a civilization the lowdowm overlooking was stunned £200; ryanair.com); had airports (from at from Laterooms.co of this sophistication times, change might aim to at the same outside these way 15th-century a is Culture vultures but Malia a car is a good existed in Europe Egypt. Casa Leone Malia, Athens. Hiring pharaohs of in Hania’s stay clear of Minoan time as the this huge island Venetian residence to get around Palace is a fascinating £235; europcar. old town that’s been converted l Evans’ reconstructions site completed archaeological picturesque (week’s hire from be controversial island family-run continue to run across the feel he into a romantic, by a wonderfully com). Buses The rooms attractions such – many archaeologists mountain backdrop. boutique hotel. balconies and go to major from £1; with sacrificed accuracy are spacious, of Minoan as Knossos (singles vivid the harbour -ktel.com). Discover more to his overly overlooking Laterooms.com bus-service-crete ; from £95). Crete on the ete imagination. (casa-leone.com Blog – http://bit.ly/LrCr Art Hotel, on STAY Minos Beach art WHERE TO is a veritable ecotourism the north coast, One of Crete’s sculptures from the isolated gallery, with trailblazers is of Milia. adorning the leading artists beach. mountain settlement app have down to the our booking farmhouses to download grounds right scan this code Sixteen stone villas and into cottages The whitewashed luxurious feel been transformed It’s worth a bungalows have ; from £215). with rustic furnishings. eat in the superb (minosbeach.com a visit just to from £75). taverna (milia.gr; Planet 132 Lonely

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

Givenbelieve its tranquil you’d hardly this setting, hotel is in hardly believe this hotel is in Glasgow’s city Glasgow’s city centre. Unwind in centre. Unwind the spa or grab in the spa or grab some bubbly at some bubbly The Salon bar. at The Salon bar.

BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE HOTEL – GLASGOW HOTEL – GLASGOW Given its tranquil setting, you’d

page 127

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CHRIS DELISOK/ SCHULTE-PEEVERS, FROM ANDREA IMAGES HELENE ROCHE/AGEFOTOSTOC IMAGES LTD, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS PRESS AGENCY/GETTY MARCO SIMONI/AWI SAVILL/TOPICAL NATALIE MILLMAN, IMAGES, DAVID COMPILED BY PHOTOGRAPHS: IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN. LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

Five-star luxury, elegance andinthe height of technology combine this height of technology combine in this elegant hotel. elegant hotel. The building itself The building itself dates back to 1895 dates backto tothe 1895 and is close and is close to the Old Town. Old Town.

ALDEN LUXURY SUITE ALDEN–LUXURY HOTEL ZÜRICH SUITE HOTELluxury, – ZÜRICH Five-star elegance and the

page 125 CHRIS DELISO SCHULTE-PEEVERS, EFOTOSTOCK/ TIONS FROM ANDREA HELENE ROCHE/AG ETTY IMAGES WITH CONTRIBU I IMAGES LTD, AGENCY/G NATALIE MILLMAN, PHS: MARCO SIMONI/AW SAVILL/TOPICAL PRESS COMPILED BY . PHOTOGRA IMAGES, DAVID IMAGES/GETTY AND DES HANNIGAN LONELY PLANET SUPERSTOCK,

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MUSEO DEL PRADO

The Belle-Époqueera Palacio de Comunicaciones

MINI GUIDE

Madrid on a budget World-class art galleries, fine tapas bars, grand public spaces and atmospheric markets: the Spanish capital’s myriad attractions are available to every budget.

Eating and drinking CASA REVUELTA

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Casa Revuelta serves up some of Madrid’s finest tapas, and is famed for its bacalao (cod), torreznos (bacon bits) and albóndigas (meatballs). It’s filled to the rafters early on a Sunday afternoon, although regular locals always manage to find room to squeeze in (Calle de Latoneros 3; 10.30am–4pm & 7pm–11pm Tue–Sat, 10.30am– 4pm Sun; tapas from £2).

CHOCOLATERÍA DE SAN GINÉS

One of the grand icons of the Madrid night, this chocolate con churros (Spanish frieddough pastry ‘doughnuts’ with chocolate) café just west of the Puerta del Sol sees a sprinkling of tourists throughout the day, but locals usually pack it out on their way home from a nightclub sometime close to dawn (chocolateriasangines. com; Pasadizo de San Ginés 5; hot chocolate with six churros £3; open 24 hours).

Spain’s best art gallery comes at a price – except in the evenings when it’s free. The collection is grand and imperious in the royal paintings of Velázquez, and darkly tumultuous in Goya’s work; and is best appreciated over a couple of visits (museo delprado.es; Paseo del Prado; 10am–8pm Mon–Sat, until 7pm Sun; £11.50, free 6pm–8pm Mon–Sat, 5pm–7pm Sun).

MUSEO SOROLLA

The artist Joaquín Sorolla immortalised the clear light of the Valencia coast. His Madrid house, surrounded by lush gardens that he designed, contains the most complete collection of his works and is free after 2pm on Saturday and all day Sunday (museosorolla.mcu. es; Paseo del General Martínez Campos 37; 9.30am–8pm Tue– Sat, 10am–3pm Sun; £2.50, free Sat 2pm–8pm and Sun).

Vivid depictions of early 20thcentury life at the Museo Sorolla

MUSEO AL AIRE LIBRE

This fascinating open-air collection of 17 abstract sculptures includes works by the renowned Basque artist Eduardo Chillida, Joan Miró and Alberto Sánchez. The works are set beneath a busy overpass, but somehow the presence of traffic grime and pigeon droppings only adds to the effect (munimadrid. es/museoairelibre; cnr Paseo de la Castellana & Paseo de Eduardo Dato; open 24 hours; free).

Attractions

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SAN ANTONIO DE LA FLORIDA

Churros and hot chocolate at Chocolatería de San Ginés

LA VENENCIA

This is how sherry bars should be – drinks poured straight from the dusty wooden barrels and none of the frenetic activity for which the Huertas district is known. La Venencia is a barrio classic, with fine sherry from Sanlúcar and manzanilla from Jerez, accompanied by a choice of tapas with an Andalucían bent. No music, no flashy decorations – it’s just about the fino (Calle de Echegaray 7; 1pm–3.30pm & 7.30pm– 1.30am; sherry from £1.50).

With resplendent frescoed ceilings painted by Goya in 1798, this small church ranks as one of Madrid’s finest art galleries. It’s one of the few places to see Goya masterworks in their original setting – plus it’s free (sanantoniodelaflorida.es; Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida 5; 9.30am–8pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat & Sun).

PARQUE DEL BUEN RETIRO

The glorious gardens of El Retiro are as beautiful as any you’ll find in a European city, with abundant greenery and elegant buildings. The park comes to life at weekends when Madrileños arrive to read the papers, take boat rides on the lake, hang out at the numerous terrazas and catch an open-air art exhibition (6am–midnight May–Sep, until 11pm Oct–Apr; entry free).

The monument to Alfonso XII in Parque del Buen Retiro

EL RASTRO

You could easily spend an entire morning inching your way down the Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores and through the maze of streets that hosts El Rastro flea market every Sunday. Come to soak up the atmosphere or grab some cheap clothes, old flamenco records, even older photos of Madrid, grungy T-shirts, antiques and electronics (Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores; 8am–3pm Sun).

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