HARBORS Spring 2012
The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
HARBORS | 15 The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine Five-Star Salmon Fishing A flurry of sea birds erupts over the spooky swirls and gaping whirlpools in Arran Rapids, white feathered confetti rising in formation from the mirror of Sonora Channel. The twilight, lit by the spotlight of a hot orange sunset, glows against the black-green moun- tains of the Toba Wilderness. A fat sea lion rolls through the mirror, three bald eagles argue over a silvery sliver of fish, and across the bay behind Stuart Island the icy moun- tains plunge like cliffs into the water- line and continue another 2,100 frigid feet to the bottom of Bute Inlet. It’s a mesmerizing view of raw wil- derness; a panorama incredulously viewed through a wall of windows in the upscale pampering of a Relais & Châteaux-approved resort surrounded by the wilds of British Columbia’s Des- olation Sound. It’s a juxtaposition of urban pampering and wild reality that confuses my rather earthy-primal con- ception of northern wilderness. I am dining on white linen on the inside of a calendar photo, enjoying the distin- guished flavors of a superbly prepared An Angler’s Inside on the Outside of the Inside Passage By Terry W. Sheely five-course dinner, just a thin pane of glass away from the teeth and talons of wildlife, truly dangerous and uncaring currents, and some of the most primi- tive country in North America. And salmon. This is a fishing trip for the bucket list, a very special place to tease up a king salmon where luxury meets wilderness at the end of a spectacu- lar 2-hour-and-20-minute low-level floatplane flight on Kenmore Air from Seattle’s Lake Washington, with a brief stop to clear customs in Nanaimo on eastern Vancouver Island. Tomorrow I fish. Tonight I finish a dozen sweet oys- ters, sliding the last succulent one off A vibrant, breath-taking sunset on Desolation Sound in northern BC.