Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unserem Nürnberger Geschäft am Hefnersplatz erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken und exquisiter Schmuckstücke sowie ein erstklassiger Service.
Welcome to Bucherer, a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Nuremberg store directly at Hefnersplatz you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service.
und viele mehr and many more
Nürnberg Hefnersplatz 4-6
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name
customers express when they purchase
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of
expertise in the art of making jewellery
jewellery uphold international standards
and timepieces. We offer a unique
and are born in our own atelier. This is
selection of valuable treasures at 28
true for unusual one-of-a-kind items
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
as well as for our diverse assortment
especially proud because for more than
of classic pieces with brilliant-cut
a century we have been privileged to
diamonds. And a century-old friendship
contribute to the grand feelings that our
links us with the world’s foremost watch
We accept all credit cards.
www.wempe.com
manufactories. You will find WEMPE
will always be available to meet your
showrooms at the loveliest locations
individual needs. We cordially invite you
in great European metropolises, New
to discover an abundance of interesting
York City and in Beijing. Each shop also
new items and exclusive special models
offers service or advice whenever you
at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We
require it, so you can be certain that we
look forward to your visit!
Nürnberg, Königstraße 12, T +49.(0)911.20 35 81 nuernberg@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK
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CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN NUREMBERG. KarolinenstraĂ&#x;e 6 ¡ Pfannenschmiedsgasse 18 ¡ Franken-Center (Langwasser) CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler StraĂ&#x;e 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (â‚Ź 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. â‚Ź 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut
Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring* 585/- gold with rhodolites and brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.15 ct.**
Passion. Made in Germany. The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection. Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.
www.christ.de
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Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus
Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا
德国指南
Welcome to Nuremberg Even if you’ve visited Nuremberg before, you may be surprised to discover the city’s charmingly quirky Handwerkerhof, a craft centre that showcases skills from centuries of tradition – fnd out more in our feature on page 40. Nuremberg’s winter market is equally enticing and we reveal its highlights on page 34. SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. With this edition of SHOP and your Global Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Nuremberg has to ofer.
Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
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@GlobalBlue
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Руководство Германия
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Contributors
PHOTO: SAM NAGELE
ILLUSTRATION: JACOB STEAD
Jacob Stead Illustrator Jacob Stead’s fun, colourful artwork made him the perfect choice to create the cover for this season’s SHOP Nuremberg edition, inspired by Germany’s enticing array of magical winter markets, featured on page 34. Jacob has also created artwork for clients including the New York Times, British Airways and Wired. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book, 50 Years of British Style Culture, was published in 2012. globalblue.com
Grace Bird After working in theatre, Grace Bird joined SHOP as a picture assistant. She loves all kinds of art and craft, and can often be found doing origami in her bonsai garden. She also enjoys travelling, something that inspires her unique style.
Stephen Doig Stephen Doig is a regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph and has written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times. In this edition, he discovers the delights of Germany’s traditional winter fairs.
fashion | lifestyle | beauty NUREMBERG KÖNIGSTRASSE
Welcome to Nuremberg, city of Albrecht Dürer and the home of the world’s best-known Christmas market, which is famous for its tasty gingerbread and bratwurst. At the heart of the Old Town lies the GALERIA Kaufhof department store: five floors of top fashion brands, trendy accessories, stylish sports items, international brands of watches, jewellery, perfumes and leather products, as well as an extensive assortment of household items and home textiles. Enjoy the excellent service in an atmosphere that makes shopping fun. The traditional department store chain celebrates 2014 its 135th anniversary with special offers and events. If you come from a country outside the EU, you can even enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!
Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Nuremberg, Königstrasse.
GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany
GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
www.galeria.de
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Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Managing editor Sally McIlhone
Online editor Kirsty Welsh
Digital manager Eamonn Leacy
Cover illustrator Jacob Stead
Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh
Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo
Contributors Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims
Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener
Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound
Production editor Caterina Mazzolai
Commercial editor Justine Clifton
Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard
Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline
Features editor Stephen Doig
Commercial artworking interns George Trinick, Ellie Vigors
City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha
Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez
Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok
Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank
Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts
Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya
Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed
Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini
Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew
Artworker Adam Dhaliwal
Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang
Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou
Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova
Picture intern Rubi Ali
International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia
Chinese editor Yuan Fang
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey
Picture editor Dorcas Brown
Project manager Bina Summan
SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales Central Europe Thorsten Lind Vice president sales Germany Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Congress-und Tourismus-Zentrale Nürnberg, Verkehrsverein Nürnberg, Frauentorgraben 3/IV, 90443 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 23360, tourismus.nuernberg.de
Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
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Contents
PHOTO: Nuremberg cONveNTiON aNd TOurism Office
p.34
P rod u c t S 18 Check Out SHoP selects a standout piece from Nuremberg this season 22 Our Favourites elisabeth Weber and Johannes Prein of the ellijot design Studio reveal their top tips for autumn/winter 2014/15 24 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N eWS 30 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Nuremberg 32 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F e at u r e S 34 Cover Story: Festive Fairs From handicrafts to home-made sweet treats, Germany’s seasonal markets provide some of the most traditional experiences in europe. By Stephen doig Above: Nuremberg winter market
40 Made By Hand Nuremberg’s charming Handwerkerhof craft centre showcases the traditional skills the city is famous for. Josh Sims explores Gu i de 46 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Nuremberg, plus useful information for visitors eSSeNti a lS 58 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r a N S l at i o N S 60 Русский Перевод 62 美文翻译 65 Sou v e N i r 66 the essential item to bring home
NĂźrnberg, An der Lorenzkirche Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-StraĂ&#x;e 2 | 45133 Essen
Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers. Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt N端rnberg.
18 | P RO D U C T S
Check Out
SOUnDS gOOD Bang & Olufsen’s Form 2 headphones have been updated to celebrate 30 years of a design that has won a place in new York’s Museum of Modern Art. The headphones are revered for their ability to deliver sound as accurately as its creators intended. Relaunched as part of the B&O Play collection of portable devices with contemporary aesthetics, Form 2i headphones, available in six colours, retain Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 58
the original sleek and minimalist design, but are now lighter for a more comfortable ft, and include an in-line microphone and three-button remote for easy device control. Look out for limited-edition versions too, as the brand has some exciting collaborations planned for the new season. gl B&O Play Form 2i headphones, €129 each, Bang & Olufsen, Kaiserstrasse 39, 90403 nuremberg, +49 (0)911 232683, beoplay.com * for map go to page 50
22 | P RO D U C T S
OUR FavOURites: elisabeth Weber and Johannes Prein The Ellijot Design Studio in Nuremberg develops inventive, contemporary corporate and brand design solutions for classic and new media. From photography to programming to illustration, the team is always busy working on the next exciting project. Founders Elisabeth Weber and Johannes Prein tell Ximena Daneri where they go for inspiration in the city ellijot.de
1. ‘As light is very important for our well-being, the warm colour and simple shape of the Sigma lamp appeals to us’ Markus Bischof Sigma lamp, €875, Markus Bischof, Pilotystrasse 40, 90408 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 9289 9737, markusbischof.de
2. ‘Every product at Goldkind is made with a lot of love. You’ll always fnd something suitable for your friend’s baby shower’
3. ‘Elli always gets mesmerised by the shop window when they exhibit Jörg Schemmann’s beautiful foral paintings’
Gebrüder Reiner silverware, price on request, Goldkind, Austrasse 26, 90429 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2778 6358, reiner-silber.de
Apfelblüten by Jörg Schemmann, €7,900, Galerie Voigt, Obere Wörthstrasse 8, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 242 9995, galerievoigt.de
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 58
PHOTOS: (PrOfile &4) KaTHrin KOScHiTzKi; (1) MarKuS BiScHOf (2) GOldKind; (3) JörG ScHeMMan; (5) Bernau & runGe GMBH; (6) PHiliPP zurMöHle
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4. ‘Frau Bayer always gives us a warm welcome with tasty buchteln [buns] and a Karlsbader kännchen [Karlsbad cofee]’ Der Kafeehausladen in Saint Johannis, Wielandstrasse 37, 90419 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 377 0923, kafeehausladen.de
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5. ‘In this restaurant, you get the best steaks and burger creations as well as an exceptional wine selection’ Weinstockwerk, Glockendonstrasse 30, 90429 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 272 3663, weinstockwerk.de
6. ‘This café and bookstore is as cosy as a living room – we always enjoy a cup of cofee and the great variety of design books’ Café Mainheim/Von und Zu Buch, Bauerngasse 18, 90443 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2109 2922, vonundzubuch.com
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ROCK STAR STATUS
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A statement ring elevates a leather skirt and biker boots to the next level
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1. Jimmy Choo Flash London Club eau de parfum, 40ml, €39, Douglas, Karolinenstrasse 25, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 214 6970, jimmychoo.com 2. Diesel boots, €250, Diesel, Kaiserstrasse 36, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 236 9890, diesel.com
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3. Abro shoulder bag, €399, Breuninger, Karolinenstrasse 34, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 274240, abro.de 4. Pandora ring, €199, Pandora, Königstrasse 10, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 274 3500, pandora.net
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 58
5. Marc Cain gilet, €679, Marc Cain, Kaiserstrasse 17, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205 400, marc-cain.com 6. Esprit skirt, €129.99, Esprit, Karolinenstrasse 13, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2425 4770, esprit.com
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BLACK And gOLd
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Geometric patterns and rose-gold metallics lend instant glamour to a simple sweater
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1. Mercedes-Benz perfume, 60ml, €69.95, Douglas, Karolinenstrasse 25, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 214 6970, perfume.mercedes-benz.com
4. Thomas Sabo watch, €298, Thomas Sabo, Königstrasse 2, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 237 3010, thomassabo.com
2. Swarovski necklace, €89, Swarovski, Königstrasse 16, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2355 5568, swarovski.com
5. Marina Rinaldi jumper, €209, Marina Rinaldi, Kaiserstrasse 8, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 216 5040, marinarinaldi.com
3. Michael Kors nail varnish, €19.99, Douglas, Karolinenstrasse 25, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 214 6970, michaelkors.com
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6. Mexx jeans, €69.99, Mexx, Breite Gasse 88, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 234 9511, mexx.com
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STORMY WEATHER Combine rugged outerwear with stylish accessories for winter-ready attire
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1. Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar watch, €10,000, Montblanc, Kaiserstrasse 10, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 132 3363, montblanc.com
4. Nikon Df camera with Nikkor AF-S 50mm f/1.8G lens, €2,719, Fotomax, Pillenreuther Strasse 27, 90459 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 444895, nikon.com
7. Victorinox Swiss Army Classic eau de toilette, 100ml, €52.95, Chesi Stahlwaren, Bindergasse 14, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 221006, victorinox.com
2. Marc O’Polo jacket, €399, Marc O’Polo, Hefnersplatz 7, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 235 5844, marc-o-polo.com
5. Louis Vuitton bag, €3,550, Louis Vuitton, Kaiserstrasse 16, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 244 7222, louisvuitton.com
8. Hermès gloves, from €820, Hermès, Kaiserstrasse 12, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 235540, hermes.com
3. Barbour Belsay boots, €199, Frankonia, Josephsplatz 8, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205520, barbour.com
6. Cos scarf, €39, Cos, Königstrasse 4, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2114 7078, cosstores.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 58
PHOTO: (7) Daniel Meyer FOTOSTuDiO GMbH; (8) STuDiO DeS FleurS
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Von bis In unserer Parfümerie fnden Sie die EXKLUSIVSTEN DÜFTE aus über 100 MARKEN zu den BESTEN PREISEN.
You will fnd the MOST EXCLUSIVE FRAGRANCES from over 100 BRANDS at the BEST PRICES in our perfume department. 在我们的香水店中,您可以找到 最独特的香 最独特的香水,超过 100 个品牌,而且价格最优惠。 ,而且
Ihre Müller-Fliliale mit Parfümerie fnden Sie hier:
You can fnd your Müller store with perfume department here:
Müller-Fliliale 香水店地址如下， 恭候您的光顾：
Lorenzkirche, Königstrasse 26 Frankencenter, Glogauer Strasse 36-38 Mercadocenter, Äußere Bayreuther Strasse 80
30 | N E W S
Shop Window
DESIGNER VISION Birgit Pfeif founded multi-brand boutique Emerson Renaldi in 1979, aiming to bring the newest international designer fashions to Nuremberg. Pfeif originally focused on Italian footwear and accessories but the boutique has expanded considerably to ofer a wide range of the latest male and female ready-to-wear collections from some of fashion’s biggest names. Italian brands continue to occupy a major proportion of the store, represented by Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu, Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 58
Marni and Giuseppe Zanotti. These share the rails with other European fashion houses including Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Dries Van Noten. Personal shopping services are available to help you navigate the twostorey, 350-square-metre space, while an in-store espresso and Champagne lounge with a view of Nuremberg castle allows you to discover the latest designer fashions in a fttingly high-class environment. gl Emerson Renaldi, Kaiserstrasse 11-13, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 208808, emerson-renaldi.com * for map go to page 50
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32 | N E W S
WINTER WARDROBE Italian menswear purveyor Boggi Milano has opened a new store on Nuremberg’s centrally located Kaiserstrasse shopping street. The brand is renowned for ofering elegant and sophisticated apparel suitable for all occasions, from formal tailoring to casual separates, sportswear and accessories, making easy work of a seasonal wardrobe update. The autumn/winter collection features patterned jackets and blazers in soft light shades, designed to be layered over printed or plain shirts
and paired with ftted trousers. Exclusive cashmere and silk wool blends ensure suiting fabrics feel as luxurious as they look, while alpaca and angora knitwear will keep you warm and comfortable throughout the winter. Practicality is key in the outerwear collection – the windproof, waterproof Urban Motor jacket comes with a detachable body-warmer waistcoat that ensures you are ready to face the elements this season. gl Boggi Milano, Kaiserstrasse 18, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2373 7340, boggi.com * for map go to page 50
THE CLIENT IS KING Inspired by a passion for the fner aspects of culture and clothing, the owners of Bube und König (Knave and King in English) created their store to make beautiful, wellmade pieces available to every man. The founders are on a mission to provide top-quality clothing and accessories, and excellent service, hoping that every person who visits will leave feeling like a king. The range focuses on smaller, regional brands but also has a commitment to showcasing the best established German brands, including luxury penmaker Kaweco. mkh Bube und König, Obstmarkt 22, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 911 9928 3690, bubeundkoenig.de Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 58
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BORN TO SHINE
GEM GENIUS
PHOTO: (bOTTOm rigHT) maTTHiaS HOffmann
Having celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2013, Swiss brand Bucherer is one of the oldest purveyors of watches and fne jewellery in Germany. Handed down through three generations of the eponymous family, the house draws on its rich heritage for each design, incorporating its traditions and knowledge. An expert in precious metals
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and gems, Bucherer creates pieces of jewellery which are made to last and to be loved. These stackable bracelets are available in a range of colours, materials and designs, and can be further customised with charms, allowing you to create a jewellery look that’s unique to you. hl Bucherer, Hefnersplatz 4-6, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205170, bucherer.com * for map go to page 51
It would be fair to say that Kim-Eva Wempe has jewellery in her blood. Born into the Wempe family, which owns one of Germany’s leading fne jewellery and watch companies, she grew up in a world of precious metals and beautiful stones. Driven by the desire to keep her family’s business fresh and modern, she introduced her own line of jewellery, By Kim. Ofering beautiful and luxurious pieces inspired by and created for powerful and sensual women, the By Kim line skilfully plays with shapes and materials to create jewellery with a contemporary elegance. By Kim pieces often excel at versatility. This opulent cocktail ring is an example: eye-catching and luxurious enough to be worn on even the most special occasions, its simple lines and unfussy aesthetic mean it can also be worn every day. hl Wempe, Königstrasse 12, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 203581, wempe.de * for map go to page 53
PHOTO: Nuremberg CONveNTiON aNd TOurism OffiCe
Festive
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From handicrafts to home-made sweet treats, Germany’s seasonal markets provide some of the most traditional experiences in Europe. By Stephen Doig
Germany’s cities are among the leading places in the world for modern retail, with stunning glass shopping centres ofering the latest fashion designs. But the country is also rightly famous for its traditional winter markets, which have been providing seasonal delights for centuries – it is thought that the frst market was held in Saxony in the 1300s. Modern Berlin, with its cutting-edge credentials, turns into a winter wonderland towards the end of the year, with an impressive selection of markets. Some, such as those at Gendarmenmarkt and Potsdamer Platz, are situated in key shopping areas while others are more intimate and focus on handicrafts and home-made food.
Fairs
36 | F E AT U R E S
PHOTO: JürgeN PrieBe CC BY-NC 2.0
The charming Nostalgischer Weihnachsmarkt (Nostalgic Christmas Market) at the Opernpalais boasts a range of pretty craft items, from cosy scarves to painted baubles and other decorations, while brandy punch and roasted almonds will help keep visitors warm. Here, the hectic mood of modern Berlin seems to melt away. A short distance from the centre
of the city, a similarly welcoming atmosphere can be experienced at the Aventsökomarkt (Advent Eco Market) at Kollwitzplatz in Prenzlauer Berg. From huts illuminated with fairy lights, a wide range of goods can be selected including gingerbread and seasonal decorations. As carolers sing, and perhaps as snow dusts the stalls’ roofs, enjoy a cup of hot rum and a baked apple with vanilla sauce. A dash of Scandinavian culture comes to Berlin at the charming Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt (Lucia Christmas Market), also in the Prenzlauer Berg area. Named after the Nordic goddess of light, the market features Scandinavian and German food, drink and gifts.
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All visitors are sure to be seduced by Germany’s joyful winter markets
Previous page: Nuremberg’s winter market
PHOTO: JUdiTH TB CC BY-NC-Nd 2.0
PHOTO: Uli KOWaTsCH/CONgress UNd TOUrismUs-ZeNTrale NürNBerg
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While the capital has its wintry charms, it is another German city, Nuremberg, that boasts one of the best-known winter markets in Europe, attracting two million visitors each year. Under the watchful eye of the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) – which, for the occasion, is lit up in radiant light – the revelry unfolds in the central square of the Old Town, adding to the authentic charm of the experience. Nuremberg winter market, which is likely to have started in the 1600s, launches with a spectacular opening ceremony featuring trumpeters and carol singing. A golden angel has been a symbol of the market since the very earliest days and replicas in an array of colours
Above (clockwise from lef): zwetschgenmännla fgurines are a Nuremberg speciality; handcrafed decorations at Nuremberg’s winter market; Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt, Berlin
are available to buy. Behind the city wall is the Handwerkerhof, a craft courtyard where visitors can watch artisans at work in their timber houses, creating stunning glass items or making intricate metalwork (see our feature on page 40). Stay warm with a cup of hot chocolate from the Schoggladn Hoisla (Chocolate House) in the courtyard, and before you leave, look out for the zwetschgenmännla. Dating back to the 18th century, these fgurines are skilfully made from wire covered with (rather unusually) prunes and walnuts, which are then painted by hand. Germany’s business powerhouse, Düsseldorf, is also keeping the winter market tradition alive. For artisanal items, head to the Above (clockwise from lef): brightly decorated winter market stalls in front of Düsseldorf’s Schauspielhaus; Engelchenmarkt, Düsseldorf; festive market in Düsseldorf; Nuremberg’s winter market is the perfect place to fnd souvenirs and Christmas gifs
PHOTO: JürgEN PriEbE CC bY-NC 2.0
PHOTO: © DüSSElDOrf MarkETiNg & TOuriSMuS gMbH
38 | F E AT U R E S
PHOTO: © DüSSElDOrf MarkETiNg & TOuriSMuS gMbH/iNgO laMMErT
PHOTO: © DüSSElDOrf MarkETiNg & TOuriSMuS gMbH/PHOTOgraPHEr: u. OTTE
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sprawling markets on Schadowstrasse where you’ll fnd handmade wooden fgurines and miniature houses. At the Engelchenmarkt (Angel’s Market) in the city’s Old Town, art nouveau-style stalls sell stunning wax candles in spiralling shapes, hand-painted tree decorations and wreaths made out of holly and pine interspersed with ribbons in the rosiest red. Whether visiting Nuremberg, Berlin or Düsseldorf, even those who are cynical about the season’s festivities will be seduced by Germany’s joyful winter markets visitberlin.de, tourismus.nuernberg.de, duesseldorf-tourismus.de
40 | F E AT U R E S
Nuremberg’s charming Handwerkerhof craft centre showcases the traditional skills the city is famous for. Josh Sims explores Get married in Nuremberg and friends are likely to give you a cup made of tin – the poor man’s silver, as it was once dubbed. But this is no snub – local tradition says that the holder of the cup is said to be the one who holds the reins of the relationship. The maker of the cup might
well be Georg Stanisavljevic, who is also the keeper of the city’s long history of tin smithing. In his small shop-cum-workshop all things tin can be found, from bottle openers to fgurines. Although the tin industry has been signifcant in Nuremberg since the mid-16th
Made by hand
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century, Stanisavljevic, who makes his own moulds and fres his models at the requisite 1,300 degrees Celsius, has only been here since 1971. However, the Handwerkerhof where he works represents a step back in time to celebrate the various crafts that are a central part of Nuremberg’s history, and for which the city was once recognised across Europe. This charming craft centre with its timbered buildings, cobbled streets, traditional signs and bright awnings represents Nuremberg’s full craft diversity, from metalwork to leather, pottery, ceramics and stained glass. In another of the Handwerkerhof’s shops, one specialising in tin toys, armies of tin soldiers stand ready for combat with drumming monkeys hiding in boxes. Germany was once
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renowned as the world’s best maker of tin toys of all kinds, before it switched its metalwork and engineering know-how to making some of the world’s best cars. Craftsmen here made some of the frst tin plate toy cars in the 1890s, and until early in the 20th century Nuremberg was responsible for a third of Germany’s mechanical toy exports. One could hardly be in a better German city to see some outstanding examples of stained glass, given the variety of halls, chapels and administrative buildings with fne examples. These are exemplifed by the early 16th century windows of the Saint Lorenz and Saint Sebald churches, created by glass master Previous page: Tinsmith Georg stanisavljevic in his workshop
PHOTO: AndreAs. CC BY-sA 2.0
S H O P | 43
Veit Hirschvogel to designs by Albrecht Dürer, no less. Today the Handwerkerhof is host to Helga Feurer, Nuremberg’s only remaining stained glass painter. Feurer’s workshop has been situated in the Handwerkerhof for over 30 years, but her craft dates back far longer and has remained unaltered for centuries. Traditional dolls may be a niche market in today’s world, but they are still made here and a German child from days long gone would immediately recognise the fatschenkinder – chubby, swaddled baby dolls once typically made by novices in nunneries as devotional objects before much later becoming toys. Above (clockwise from lef): Helga Feurer with some of her glasswork; view of the Handwerkerhof; toy shop interior; the craf centre’s seting is as traditional as the crafspeople who work there
The Handwerkerhof doll shop sells antique, collectible examples as well as new versions. And although these large porcelain-headed, big-eyed dolls would struggle to ft inside them, Nuremberg’s 18th-century patrician families would also have wanted their ofspring to play with a dolls’ house. These too were made here in the city, often as scale models of the family home. Also available are the distinctive Nuremberg Christmas tree fairies – with wings but armless, a haunting rendering of the familiar icon. Visitors can also discover the little-known art of pyrography, also known as pokerwork. This is the burning of a design or motif Above (clockwise from lef): Handwerkerhof glassware shop; stall selling wooden art made using the pyrography technique; this nativity scene by Georg Bayerschmidt is set in front of Nuremberg’s Tiergärtnertor gate
PHOTO: Paul ScHNeeBerGer
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S H O P | 45
The traditional Nuremberg crafts found at the Handwerkerhof include metalwork, leather, pottery, ceramics, glass – and pyrography
into wooden forms of all kinds, a rare skill that makes an unusual change from most woodworking processes involving knives and chisels. Not that the ancient hand skills of Nuremberg don’t move on; centuries ago this strange craft would have been done, as the name suggests, using metal spikes and other implements heated to red hot in open fres. These days the pokerwork practitioners at the Handwerkerhof use a metal loop attached to a transformer, which allows for better control of the heat applied to the wood. Take time to admire this curious artisanal procedure – at a reassuringly safe distance handwerkerhof.de
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Guide
PHOTO: Uwe Niklas/Uwe-Niklas.cOm
Global blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Nuremberg with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best boutiques to the mustsee attractions. start with sHop’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. for further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/nuremberg.
A GLIMpse of NureMberG Nuremberg’s Historische Meile (historical mile) begins at its medieval castle and takes visitors on a tour of the city’s buildings, monuments and churches globalblue.com
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Nuremberg ALBRECHT-DÜRER-HAUS 1 P.52
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SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS
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Albrecht-Dürer-Haus Tour the residence of the city’s most famous artist with a visit to the historic Albrecht-Dürer-Haus. Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 231 2568, museen.nuernberg.de/duererhaus featured on page 52
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Lloyd Don’t attempt to walk Nuremberg’s famous historical mile without stopping to pick up a pair of sturdy yet stylish boots from Lloyd Shoes. Kaiserstrasse 8, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2355 5554, lloyd.de featured on page 66
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Weinstockwerk Dine at Weinstockwerk restaurant to enjoy a selection of the best steaks and burgers in town. Glockendonstrasse 30, 90429 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 272 4663, weinstockwerk.de featured on page 23
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Senfgelb Pick up a unique pair of earrings made from the finest stoneware and ceramics at Senfgelb. Bärenschanzstrasse 103, 90429 Nuremberg, +49 (0)176 3142 7188, senfgelb.com featured on page 50
BAHNHOFSTR A SSE
Douglas Find your new signature fragrance at German beauty emporium Douglas; the Mercedes-Benz perfume comes highly recommended. Karolinenstrasse 25, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 214 6970, douglas.de featured on page 25
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SEnfGElb
polished to enhance their natural brilliance. The selection is vast, including earrings, pendants, lockets and rings with an overriding vintage aesthetic – the coordinating sets make ideal gifts. Senfgelb, bärenschanzstrasse 103, 90429 nuremberg, +49 (0)176 3142 7188, senfgelb.com
Every item stocked in nuremberg’s Senfgelb boutique is handmade by the store’s owner Marina Wachsmann. The extensive range of jewellery and accessories on ofer is crafted from the fnest materials and handmade with meticulous attention to detail. Pieces are made from a range of materials but the majority feature ceramics and stoneware,
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BeSt BoutiqueS 1. Flex One of the city’s standout stores, Flex stocks a well-edited range of vintage furnishings produced between the 1930s and 1980s. The selection is eclectic, ranging from clothes, shoes and handbags to lamps, chairs, sideboards and even bicycles. Expect something interesting to catch your eye on every visit. Flex, Kernstrasse 7, 90429 Nuremberg, +49 (0)179 143 6812, flex-nbg.de
Plobenhofstrasse
2. Breuninger Breuninger’s five floors filled with luxury goods make it an ideal one-stop shop. The store stocks a range of established international brands and promising newcomers. Breuninger, Karolinenstrasse 34, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 274240, breuninger.de 3. Lebkuchen-Schmidt Lebkuchen-Schmidt sells one of Nuremberg’s most famous products, gingerbread, based on a recipe that has remained unchanged for the last 600 years. Lebkuchen-Schmidt, Plobenhofstrasse 6, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 225568, lebkuchen-schmidt.com
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2. Staatstheater Nürnberg The art nouveau Staatstheater has been playing host to operatic, ballet and orchestral performances in Nuremberg since it opened in the early 20th century. The theatre is often chosen to show premieres as well as established works; this season, look out for performances of Puccini’s Turandot. Staatstheater Nürnberg, Richard-Wagner Platz 2-10, 90443 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 231 3808, staatstheater-nuernberg.de for map go to page 48
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3. Kunsthalle Nuremberg Nuremberg’s Kunsthalle currently has no permanent collection and has become one of Germany’s leading exhibition spaces. This autumn/winter, look out for the Off the Wall exhibitions, which include works by Cornelia Boltes, Benjamin Houlihan and Alexander Wolff. Kunsthalle Nuremberg, Lorenz Strasse 32, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 231 2853, kunstkulturquartier.de/kunsthalle
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
PHOTO: ANdReAS PRAeFCke
1. Neues Museum Showcasing works of art and design produced from the 1950s to the present day, the Neues Museum plays host to an eclectic selection of paintings, sculpture and installations. The museum itself is a work of art; designed by Volker Staab, it exemplifies outstanding contemporary architecture. Neues Museum, Luitpoldstrasse 5, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 240 2069, nmn.de
4. Spielzugmuseum Nuremberg has long been associated with toy manufacturing, from medieval doll makers to the tin toy producers of the industrial age. This four-floor museum chronicles the city’s historic relationship with toys. Spielzugmuseum, Karlstrasse 13-15, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 231 3164, museen.nuernberg.de/spielzeugmuseum for map go to page 48
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5. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus Visitors to the Albrecht Dürer house can see the house as it would have been in the artist’s era, view copies of his works and learn more about his techniques. Albrecht-Dürer-Haus, Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 231 2568, museen.nuernberg.de/duererhaus for map go to page 48
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Königstrasse & Bahnhofsplatz Fleischbrücke ● CASTROS
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Tourist Information
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Ingolstadt Village DON’T MISS…
Shopping packages Various packages are available at the Village and can be booked via the Village website. Services can include: • Return tickets from central Nuremberg to the Village on the Shopping Express® luxury coach service • A €25 Ingolstadt Village Shopping Card to be spent at a boutique of your choice in the Village • An exclusive gift • Lunch with small soft drink at Stiftl restaurant in the Village Five-Star Services Ingolstadt Village, located less than an hour from both Munich and Nuremberg, plays host to more than 110 luxury brand boutiques. Both German and international brands are represented, with savings of up to 60% available throughout the Village. Ingolstadt Village’s design takes inspiration from its surroundings; Bavaria’s evocative 19th-century textile mills are refected in its warm colour schemes and art nouveau motifs. Ingolstadt Village, Otto-Hahn-Strasse 1, 85055 Ingolstadt, +49 (0)841 886 3100, ingolstadtvillage.com Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed
globalblue.com
The Village ofers a range of VIP services including: • • • • •
Free Wi-Fi Dog kennels A personal shopper on request Children’s play area Electric car charging station
G U I D E | 55
PERFECT DAy
Daria Orlova, SHOP’s associate Russian editor, describes her perfect day at Ingolstadt Village
HOW TO GET THERE By car
10am
From Nuremberg, take the A9 autobahn to junction IngolstadtNord (exit 61), direction Ingolstadt-Ost and from the exit follow the signs to Ingolstadt Village.
Start your day at Rosenthal. One of the world’s leading producers of contemporary porcelain, glass and tableware, the brand is known for its high standards.
By train 12pm
6pm
Take a break at the cosy Stiftl restaurant, which serves typically Bavarian fare such as pork medallions in pepper sauce with vegetables and potato gratin.
End your shopping trip by admiring the accessories on ofer at Liebeskind Berlin. The company is known for its innovative designs and high quality.
2pm
4pm
Christ’s 150 years of experience is evident in its exquisite fne jewellery collection, ofered alongside a range of timepieces by international brands.
Prepare for winter weather by picking up an outdoor jacket from Wellensteyn. The label’s quality, design and functionality are among the best.
Ingolstadt’s central station has an InterCity train connection and is the main hub for trains to Nuremberg. There are regular connecting coach services to Ingolstadt Village from Ingolstadt-Nord station and Ingolstadt central station. By bus From Ingolstadt Central Station, take bus line 10 or 11 to ZOB/ Harderstrasse, and then change to line 20. By Shopping Express® The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Nuremburg to Ingolstadt Village on the frst Saturday of the month.
56 | G U I D E
Essential Information Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites below when on the go 1
2
1. Regional Tourist Ofce Nuremberg Tourist Board, Königstrasse 93, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)211 23360, nuernberg.de 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000
3
4
5
6
EMERGENCY SERVICES
USEFUL PHRASES
Emergency: 112 (ambulance and fre); 110 (police) Doctor: +49 (0)116117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 (0)116116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards)
Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte I would like... ∙ Ich möchte... Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ Wieviel kostet...? Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben?
3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets head to vgn.de or mobil.vgn.de alternatively you can scan the QR code
PHOTO: cig20171 cc BY-Nc-SA 2.0
4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train go to the bahn.de website or scan the QR code for more information 5. Taxi To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR code or use the website taxi.de 6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in Germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the QR code globalblue.com
INSIDER TIP Nuremberg’s market square in front of the Frauenkirche plays host to numerous events in the city’s calendar. Brightly coloured fowers, fresh fruit and vegetables are all available, while the Schöner Brunnen fountain also attracts visitors – spinning the brass ring embedded in the fence surrounding the fountain is said to bring good luck.
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Eat, See, Do If you have only a short time to spend in Nuremberg, the city’s tourist board has picked its top three things to visit around the city Nuremberg Tourist Board is the ofcial tourism marketing organisation for the city of Nuremberg and is the frst stop for visitors from all over the world, whether their trip is for business or leisure. Nuremberg Tourist Board, Königstrasse 93, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 23360, nuernberg.de
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PHOTO: Uwe Niklas/Uwe-Niklas.cOm
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Don’t leave Nuremberg without trying the region’s gourmet specialities. Two popular dishes are grilled sausages with mustard, horseradish, sauerkraut and potato salad, and roast shoulder of pork with crispy crackling, dumpling and sauce. Enjoy a glass of local beer or wine and fnish your meal with gingerbread.
Be sure to watch the Männleinlaufen clockwork fgures emerge from the Frauenkirche on the main market square just before noon. View the city’s skyline from the Kaiserburg and make a wish as you turn the golden ring of the Schöner Brunnen fountain.
PHOTO: BirgiT FUder /sTadT NUerNBerg
Eat
PHOTO: Uwe Niklas/Uwe-Niklas.cOm
PHOTO: Uwe Niklas/Uwe-Niklas.cOm
Nuremberg ofers an array of historical attractions, from the Old Town to the city’s Kaiserburg (imperial castle). The museums to explore include artist Albrecht Dürer’s former house and the Germanisches Nationalmuseum.
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2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 62 / 64
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Translations Русский ПеРевод 34: Festive Fairs
PHOTO: Nuremberg CONveNTiON aNd TOurism OffiCe
Ярмарка радости
Стивен Дойг рассказывает о рождественских ярмарках Германии, где можно познакомиться с европейскими традициями и порадовать себя очаровательными подарками и домашними сладостями Немецкие города занимают ведущие позиции на шоппинг-карте мира, благодаря многочисленным современным торговым центрам, где всегда найдутся модные новинки. Но больше всего путешественников притягивают традиционные рождественские рынки: считается, что они возникли в Саксонии в начале 14 века – и с тех пор это стало неотъемлемой частью европейских новогодних праздников. Динамичный Берлин, со всеми его модными заведениями, ближе к концу года в мгновение ока превращается в зимнюю романтичную сказку. Повсюду открываются колоритные ярмарки: некоторые расположены в самом globalblue.com
центре, например, на Gendarmenmarkt и Potsdamer Platz, а другие – в более укромных точках города. Но на каждой из них обязательно присутствуют традиционные ремесла и рождественские угощения. На очаровательном рынке Nostalgischer Weihnachsmarkt на площади Opernpalais в центре внимания ручное творчество мастеров – это и уютные шарфы, и расписные сувениры, и разнообразные декоративные вещицы. А горячий пунш на основе бренди и жареный миндаль прекрасно согревают в холодный сезон. Такое ощущение, будто лихорадочная жизнь современного Берлина на время остановилась, чтобы уступить место неспешной атмосфере зимнего праздника. Если немного отойти от центра города в сторону района Пренцлауэр-Берг, то вы попадете на небольшую, но очень приятную ярмарку Aventsökomarkt на площади Kollwitzplatz. Можно бесконечно долго бродить среди лавочек, украшенных уютными огоньками, и рассматривать рождественские подарки – от пряников до праздничных украшений для дома. Подпевая рождественским песням и, если повезет, даже радуясь новогоднему снегу, согревайтесь горячим ромом и запеченными яблоками в ванильной глазури. Дух Скандинавии привносит в мультикультурный Берлин очаровательный рынок Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt, который также располагается в Пренцлауэр-Берге. Он получил свое название в честь северной богини света, а на его прилавках – скандинавские и немецкие продукты, напитки и сувениры. Каждый год около двух миллионов человек устремляется на Нюрнбергский рождественский рынок, который проводится на одном и то же месте с начала 17 века. Шумное веселье разворачивается в аутентичных декорациях – на центральной площади Старого города, у подножия церкви Frauenkirche, которая по такому случаю украшена огнями. Каждый год торжества начинаются со зрелищной церемонии с
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участием трубачей и рождественского хора. С самого начала у этой ярмарки появился собственный символ – ангел с золотыми крыльями, и практически в каждой лавке можно приобрести такую маленькую фигурку на память. Рядом со стеной Старого города располагается подворье Handwerkerhof, где мастера встречают гостей в своих стилизованных деревянных домах и продают композиции из стекла, изысканные кованые произведения из металла и другие образцы народных ремесел. Обсудить увиденное будет особенно приятно за чашкой горячего шоколада в Schoggladn Hoisla. В качестве десерта рекомендуем zwetschgenmännla – оригинальные, расписанные вручную фигурки из чернослива и грецких орехов на каркасе из проволоки, которые стали местной традицией в 18 веке. В Дюссельдорфе, деловом центре Германии, также проводится свой зимний рынок. Вдоль Schadowstrasse выстраиваются празднично украшенные прилавки, на которых можно найти и деревянные фигурки ручной работы, и миниатюрные домики, и другие ремесленные поделки. На Angel’s Market в Старом городе располагаются лавки в стиле ар-нуво, где продают красивые спиральные восковые свечи, елочные игрушки и венки из остролиста и сосны, переплетенные красными лентами. Даже если вы всегда относились к новогодним праздникам с изрядной долей иронии, уверены, вы не сможете устоять перед очарованием рождественских рынков Берлина, Дюссельдорфа и Нюрнберга. visitberlin.de, tourismus.nuernberg.de, duesseldorf-tourismus.de 40: Made By Hand
Ручная работа
Джош Симс рассказывает о мастеровом центре Handwerkerhof, где можно познакомиться с традиционными ремеслами, прославившими Нюрнберг Если бы вы жили в Нюрнберге и готовились к свадьбе, скорее всего, друзья преподнесли бы вам чашу из олова – так называемого «серебра бедняков». Не стоит пренебрегать такими
жестами: местная традиция говорит, что обладатель этой чаши будет главой будущей семьи. А автором сувенира был бы, скорее всего, Георг Станисавлевич – хранитель городской истории оловянного дела, который начал в 1971 году и до сих пор обжигает собственноручно отлитые формы при температуре в 1300 градусов. В его маленькой мастерской, которая служит заодно и магазином, всегда можно найти всевозможные жестяные предметы – от открывалок для бутылок до небольших фигурок. Сама индустрия получила особое значение в Нюрнберге в середине 16 века, вместе с расцветом мастерового дела в городе. äентр Handwerkerhof, где находится мастерская Станисавлевича, стал своеобразным островком истории: здесь продолжают развиваться ремесла, когда-то составившие европейскую славу Нюрнбергу. Избушки из бревен, мощеные улицы, вывески в традиционном стиле и разноцветные навесы – в таких декорациях воспроизводится все разнообразие традиций ручной работы: обработка металла, витражи, кожевенное, керамическое и гончарное искусства. Произведения Станисавлевича могут вступить в бой с небольшой армией. Причем в буквальном смысле: речь об оловянных солдатиках, которые уже стоят наготове к бою с бьющими в барабаны обезьянками в коробках. Все это происходит в соседней лавке, которая специализируется на жестяных игрушках. Прежде чем переключиться на производство лучших в мире автомобилей, Германия с конца 19 века оттачивала инженерию и обработку металла на самых разных игрушечных жестяных механизмах. И до начала 20 века именно в Нюрнберге производилась треть всех немецких игрушек. Для изучения витражей этот город также походит идеально: в самых разных залах, капеллах и административных зданиях представлены лучшие экземпляры. Начать лучше всего с окон в храмах Святого Лоренца и Святого Себальда. Мастер витражей Фейт Хиршфогель создал их в 16 веке по макетам самого Альбрехта Дюрера. В Handwerkerhof можно заглянуть в лавку Хельги Фейрер – теперь это единственный эксперт по витражам
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в городе. Несмотря на то, что мастерская работает чуть более 30 лет, ее редкое искусство обладает богатой историей и сохраняется на протяжении многих веков. В современном мире традиционными куклами интересуется весьма узкая аудитория, однако это совершенно не останавливает мастеров Нюрнберга. Немецкий ребенок из прошлых веков непременно узнал бы fatschenkinder – запеленатого розовощекого младенца. Таких кукол когда-то делали молодые монахини как культовые предметы, и это было задолго до появления игрушек в привычном понимании. Помимо столь аутентичных экземпляров, в магазине кукол в Handwerkerhof есть и антикварные и коллекционные игрушки, и новые куклы в традиционном стиле. Знатные нюрнбергские семьи 18 века очень хотели, чтобы у их детей были игрушечные дома, даже учитывая, что крупные куклы с фарфоровыми головами и большими глазами в них едва помещались. Тем не менее, дома для игр также делали в Нюрнберге, и часто это были уменьшенные версии реального семейного поместья. Еще одна популярная местная героиня, на который стоит обратить внимание, – рождественская фея. Она обычно изображается с крыльями, но без рук и повторяет один и тот же образ. Пожалуй, наименее известным народным промыслом в Handwerkerhof, которое может стать открытием для посетителей, является пирография - выжигание узора или рисунка на дереве. В большинстве случаев для ремесленной работы с деревом необходимы ножи и долото, а выжигание стало исключительным ответвлением. Когда-то мастера работали металлическими клиньями, раскаленными на открытом огне. Конечно, технология не стояла на месте: современные практики в Handwerkerhof используют металлическую петлю, прикрепленную к трансформатору, - так им удается лучше контролировать температуру. Вас наверняка поразит сам процесс обработки дерева, только не забывайте о мерах предосторожности и соблюдайте дистанцию. handwerkerhof.de globalblue.com
58: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
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34: Festive Fairs 节日盛会 从手工艺品到私房甜点，德国的季节性市集为您带来欧 洲最传统的购物体验。StephenDoig报道 德国的各大城市都拥有世界领先的现代零售业态，令人 赞叹的玻璃幕墙购物中心内出售着时下最新潮的时尚产 品。然而该国同样以传统冬日集市闻名于世，在那里可 以寻觅到畅销几个世纪的季节性美食——历史上的第 一个市集被公认于14世纪在Saxony举办。
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拥有新潮前卫名片的摩登柏林，在每年末会化身冬 日仙境，各种声色动人的市集让人眼花缭乱。有些市集 就位于主要购物区域，譬如在Gendarmenmarkt市场 与Potsdamer Platz广场举办的那些，而某些市集则更 具亲和力，专注于手工艺品与家庭自制美食。 引人入胜的Nostalgischer Weihnachsmarkt市 集位于 Opernpalais，以贩售漂亮的手工艺品见长， 从舒适的围巾到彩绘圣诞球，还有其他各种装饰品， 购物的同时还有白兰地 果酒与烤杏仁为到访者们增 添暖意。位于Prenzlauer Berg 的Kollwitzplatz广场 的 Aventsökomarkt市集，距离市中心只有咫尺，但同 样可以体会到温馨的节日氛围。从被童话灯光点亮的小 屋，到包括姜饼与节日装饰物在内的玲琅满目的商品。 不妨随着颂歌演唱者们开始轻吟，或许还伴随着飘落屋 顶的雪花，喝上一杯温暖的热朗姆酒，配以裹着香草酱 的烤苹果。 在魅力十足的Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt市集，您则 可以在柏林感受到一丝斯堪的纳维亚文化的气息，这个 市集也位于Prenzlauer Berg 地区。这个以北欧神话中 光之女神的名字命名的市集贩售斯堪的纳维亚与德国 的美食、饮品与礼物。 纵使德国首都有着独特的冬日魅力，但欧洲最著名 的冬日市集实则位于另一座德国城市纽伦堡，这里每年 吸引着两百万人到访。在圣母教堂（在这个时节会被灯 光点亮）的光辉照耀下，狂欢的人们聚集在老城的中心 广场，为您带来最原汁原味的节日体验。 纽伦堡冬 季市集据 传在 17 世 纪就已开始举行，号 手们与颂 歌演唱者们以规 模宏大的开幕式为市集拉 开序幕。从久远的年代起，金色天使就成为这个市集 的象征，各种颜色的仿制品都可在此购得。在城墙背 后的Handwerkerhof 有一片庭院，人们可以在此观摩 工匠们在木屋内工作，无论是吹制美丽绝伦的玻璃制 品，还是制作精细复杂的金属制品。不妨在庭院中的 Schoggladn Hoisla买一杯热巧克力取暖，离开前则别 忘了去看看zwetschgenmännla。这些可追溯到18世纪 的人偶全部以手工塑成，以铁线固定造型并（不同寻常 地）覆以李子与核桃。 在德国的商业 重镇 杜 塞尔多夫，冬日市集的传统 同样 得以延 续。若 要 找寻艺 术 品，可径 直 前 往 位于 Schadowstrasse的宽敞市集，在那里可以找到手工制木 头人像与迷你屋。在城中旧城区的Angel’s Market，新 艺术风格的摊档贩售着精美的螺旋形状的蜡烛，手绘圣 诞树装饰，与使用冬青与松枝制作、并点缀猩红色丝带 的花环。 无论是到访柏林、杜塞尔多夫还是纽伦堡，即使那 些对节日最漠不关心的人，也会被德国冬季市集欢乐氛 围所感染。 visitberlin.de, tourismus.nuernberg.de, duesseldorf-tourismus.de
40: Made By Hand 亲手锻造
纽伦堡引人入胜的Handwerkerhof 手工艺中心，展示 着该城赖以扬名的传统手工技艺。Josh Sims邀您共探 如果在 纽伦 堡 结 婚，那么朋友们 可能会 赠 予 锡杯 作 为贺礼— — 其一度 被 称为穷人 的银子。这可 不是 对 您的怠慢— —根据当地传统，谁握有这个杯子，就握 住了这段关系的缰绳。锡杯的制造商很可能是 Georg Stanisavljevic，该城悠久锡锻造史的掌门人。在品牌的 小工作坊兼零售店中可以找到各式各样的锡制品，从开 瓶器到人偶。 虽 然 制 锡 行 业 自1 6 世 纪 中 叶 起 就 在 纽 伦 堡 兴 盛 ，使 用 自 有 模 具 并 在 1 3 0 0 摄 氏 度 锻 造 产 品 的 Stanisavljevic，于1971年才在此起步。然而，他所服务 的Handwerkerhof 则代表着对历史的回顾，颂扬着作 为纽伦堡历史核心的各种手工艺，曾使该城在欧洲被广 为认可的贡献。这座引人入胜的手工艺中心，有着木结 构建筑，鹅卵石铺成的小道，传统标志和鲜艳遮阳篷， 它代表着纽伦堡手工艺的多样性，从金工到皮革、陶 器、瓷器与彩色玻璃。 Stanisavljevic的大铁皮人偶或可用来与小军队进行 战斗——自然是锡兵组成的军队。在准备战斗的他们身 后，是藏在盒中击鼓的猴子，来自另一家专营铁皮玩具 的商店 Handwerkerhof。在德国将金属制造工艺与工 程专长运用到制造全球最好的汽车之前，其曾被誉为世 上最佳的铁皮玩具制造国。这里的工匠在1890 年代就 制造出第一批铁皮汽车，到了20世纪，纽伦堡已占有德 国机械玩具出口量的三分之一。 在德国几乎找不到更好的地方来欣赏美轮美奂的 彩色玻璃，纽伦堡姿态各异的大厅、教堂与行政大楼 是最好范例。其中包括Saint Lorenz与Saint Sebald 教堂中可追溯到16世纪初的玻璃窗，由玻璃大师 Veit Hirschvogel根据Albrecht Dürer的设计打造。今日的 Handwerkerhof 由纽伦堡唯一的彩色玻璃画家Helga
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تعود حرفتها إل أكث من ذلك بكثي وقد بقيت كم هي لقرون. متخصصاً ف عالنا هذا ،لك ّنها ما زالت قد تكون الدمى التقليديّة مجالً ّ تُصنع هنا .وقد كان بإمكان أي طفل ألان ف الاض أن يتع ّرف إل دمية fatschenkinderالمتلئة الق ّمطة من صنع البتدئات ف دير الراهبات كقطع دينيّة قبل أن تصبح ألعاباً بعد ٍ وقت طويل .يبيع محل الدمى ف Handwerkerhofناذج قدية مميّزة بالضافة إل ّ دمى جديدة .وبالرغم من صعوبة حش هذه الدمى ذات الرؤوس الخزفيّة الكبية والعيون الجاحظة ف منزل الدمى ،كانت أس القرن الثامن عش الرستقراطيّة ف نورمبغ لرغبت بأن يلعب أولدها بهذه النازلُ .صنعت هذه أيضاً ف الدينة وغالباً ما كانت نسخة مصغّرة عن منزل السة الفعل .ث ّة أيضاً جنيّات شجرة اليلد الميّزة ،لها أجنحة وليس لديها يدين. يكن الز ّوار أيضاً التع ّرف إل ف ّن الحرق عل الخشب غي الشائع كثيا ً. يتمثّل بحرق تصميم أو رسم عل كافّة أنواع الخشب وهي مهارة نادرة مختلفة تاماً عن الشغال الخشبيّة التي تعتمد عل الخناجر والزاميل. لكن ل تظ ّن أ ّن الهارات اليدويّة القدية ف نورمبغ ل تتط ّور؛ ف الاض، كانت تطبّق هذه الحرفة باستخدام أشواك معدنيّة وغيها من الدوات التي تُح ّمى ف النار .أ ّما اليوم ،فيستخدم حرفيّو الحرق عل الخشب ف Handerwerkerhofحلقة معدنيّة متّصلة بح ّول يسمح وابق بالتحكّم بالحرارة بشكلٍ أفضل .تتّع بشاهدة هذه الحرفة الغريبة َ عل مسافة بعيدة وآمنة. handwerkerhof.de When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 58 عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. تنضم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل فل َم ل ّ كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص بغلوبل بلو أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة الخاصة بنا. عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الستداد ّ للت ّصال: taxfree@globalblue.com 111 111 232 +421 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره €25وادّخر حتّى 14.5%من ثن مشتياتك .يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
Feurer主理。 Feurer位于Handwerkerhof 的工作室已 成立了30多年，但她所传承的这门手艺的历史则远为悠 。长，并已保持了几个世纪 传统的娃 娃在今 天或许只是小众市场，但此处仍 制造着这种娃娃，而当年的德国儿童可以立即辨认出 fatschenk inder — —一种包裹在襁褓中的胖婴儿玩 具，其在很久以前是由修道院中修女制作的祷告用品， 后来才演化成玩具。纽伦堡18 世纪的贵族家庭还会为 后代们添置娃娃屋，虽然这些巨大的瓷脑袋大眼睛娃娃 难以置身其中。这些也都在纽伦堡制作，通常是家宅的 等比例模型。在此还可见到独一无二的纽伦堡圣诞树仙 女——有翅膀却无臂，是对这个熟悉形象的让人过目难 。忘的演绎 到访者们还可以探索鲜为人知的艺术烙画，其也被 称为pokerwork。这是一种在任何形式的木质表面上， 烙上设计样式或图腾的罕见工艺，颠覆了常见的多用刀 与凿子进行的木工制作。这项纽伦堡的古老手艺并非止 步不前；几个世纪前这项奇技或如其名所示，使用明火 加热后的金属钉或其他工具。今日Handwerkerhof 的 pokerwork制作者 则使用在变压器连接的金属环，从而更好地控制接 触木头的温度。请务必抽出时间去欣赏这种奇趣艺术的 。诞生——当然是要在令人放心的安全距离之外欣赏 handwerkerhof.de
58: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free 。Shopping）为您节约购物开销 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻 找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程： 1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global 。Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他 们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点 。领取您的退税款 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请注 意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手 续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退 。税手续费 globalblue.com
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Festive Fairs: 34 معارض مرحة
من الشغال اليدويّة إل الحلويات العدّة ف النزل ،تقدّم أسواق ألانيا الوسميّة بعض أكث التجارب التقليديّة ف أوروبا .تقرير Stephen Doig
تعتب مدن ألانيا من الماكن البرز ف العال من ناحية التجارة الحديثة حيث تعرض مراكز التس ّوق الزجاجيّة الرائعة آخر تصاميم الزياء .لكن يشتهرالبلد أيضاً بأسواقه الشتويّة التقليديّة التي توفّر أطايب موسميّة منذ قرون؛ يُعتقد أ ّن السوق ال ّول أُقيم ف ساكسونيا ف القرن الرابع عش. تتح ّول برلي الحديثة بزاياها البتكرة إل مدينة عجائب شتويّة مع اقتاب نهاية السنة بفضل مجموعة مميّزة من السواق .يقع البعض منها ،كتلك ف ساحتي GendarmenmarktوPotsdamer ،Platzف مناطق تس ّوق رئيسيّة ف حي يُركّز البعض الخر منها عل الشغال اليدويّة والأكولت العدّة ف النزل. يشمل سوق Nostalgischer Weihnachsmarktف Opernpalaisمجموعة من القطع الحرفيّة الجميلة ،من أوشحة ناعمة وطابات زينة مل ّونة وغيها من أدوات الزينة ،فيم يساعد مشوب الباندي واللّوز الح ّمص عل تدفئة الز ّوار .يبدو أ ّن ج ّو برلي الحديثة الصاخب غي موجود هنا .يكن الستمتاع بج ّو جميل ممثل عل مسافة قريبة من مركز الدينة ف سوق Aventsömarktف ساحة Kollwitzplatzف منطقة .Prenzlauer Bergيكن اختيار مجموعة واسعة من الشياء مثل الكعكة بالزنجبيل والزينة وربا الوسميّة من أكشاك مضاءة بلمبات صغية .عل وقع الناشيد ّ مع ملمسة الثلوج أسقف الحلت ،استمتع بكوب روم ساخن وتفاحة مخبوزة مع صلصة الفانيل. يبز تأثي الثقافة السكاندينافيّة ف برلي ف سوق Lucia Weihnachtsmarktالرائع وكذلك ف منطقة Prenzlauer .Bergس ّمي السوق بهذا السم نسب ًة إل آلهة النور السكاندينافيّة ويشمل أطعمة ومشوبات وهدايا اسكاندينافيّة وألانيّة. بالرغم من سحر العاصمة الشتوي ،يقع السوقان الشتويّان البرز ف أوروبا ف مدينة ألانيّة أخرى وهي نورمبغ التي تجذب مليون زائر سنويّاً .وبكنف كاتدرائيّة ( Frauenkircheالتي ت ُضاء بالناسبة بضوء مش ّع) ،يع ّم الرح ساحة الدينة القدية ويع ّزز سحرها الصيل. يعود سوق نورمبغ الشتوي إل القرن السابع عش وينطلق من خلل حفل افتتاح رائع يض ّم عازف مزامي وأناشيد .شكّل اللك الذهبي رمز السوق منذ انطلقته وت ُباع نسخ عنه بألوان مختلفة .تقع خلف جدار الدينة ساحة Handwerkerhofحيث يكن الز ّوار مشاهدة الف ّناني يعملون ف منازلهم الخشبيّة؛ إ ّما يبتكرون قطعاً زجاجيّة خلبة أو يصنعون قطعاً معدنيّة دقيقة .دفّئ معدتك بكوب من الشوكولتة الساخنة من مقهى Schoggladn Hoislaف الساحة وابحث عن شخصيّات .Zwetschgenmännlaتعود هذه الشخصيّات إل القرن الثامن عش وت ُصنع بهارة من الشطة الغلّفة بالجاص الجفّف والجوز وتل ّون ف ما بعد يدويّاً. كم تحافظ مدينة دوسلدورف ،مركز العمل ف ألانيا ،عل تقليد السوق الشتوي .إن كنت تهوى العمل الحرفيّة ،اقصد السواق النتشة
ف شارع Schadowstrasseحيث ستجد تاثيل خشبيّة صغية ومنازل مصغّرة مصنوعة يدويّاً .أ ّما ف سوق Angel ’s Marketف الدينة القدية ،فتُباع شموع مميّزة بأشكال لولبيّة وزينة مل ّونة يدويّاً لشجرة اليلد وأكاليل مصنوعة من نبات اليلكس والصنوبر تتخلّلها شائط حمراء. تجذب أسواق ألانيا الشتويّة الرحة كل من يزور برلي أو دوسلدورف أو نورمبغ حتّى ولو كان من الذين ل يؤمنون بهرجانات الوسم. ،visitberlin.de ،tourismus.nuernberg.de duesseldorf- tourismus.de Made By Hand: 40
صناعة يدويّة
الركز الحرف الرائع Handwerkerhofف نورمبغ يسلّط الضوء عل الهارات التقليديّة التي تشتهر بها الدينة .تقرير Josh Sims تز ّوج ف نورمبغ وتوقّع أن يقدّم لك الصدقاء كوباً من القصدير، العروف بفضّ ة الفقي .لكن ل تحسب ذلك بالمر الهي إذ بحسب التقاليد الحليّة ،الشخص الذي يحمل الكأس هو الذي يسك بزمام المور ف العلقة .من الر ّجح أن يكون الكأس من صنع Georg Stanisavljevicالحافظ عل تاريخ الدينة العريق ف السمكرة. يحوي منزله ومشغله كل ما هو من القصدير ،من فتّاحات الزجاجات إل التمثيل الصغية .بالرغم من شيوع صناعة القصدير ف نورمبغ منذ منتصف القرن السادس عش ،يعود تاريخ Stanisavljevicالذي ويعد التمثيل عل حرارة 1300درجة مئويّة يصنع قوالبه الخاصة ّ ّ الطلوبة إل سنة .1971يثّل مركز Handwerkerhofحيث يعمل،رحلة إل الاض لتذكّر مختلف الحرف التي تشكّل جزءا ً أساسيّاً كل أنحاء أوروبا. من تاريخ نورمبغ والتي اشتهرت بها الدينة ف ّ يعرض هذا الركز الحرف الرائع ببانيه الخشبيّة وشوارعه الرصوفة بالحص وإشاراته التقليديّة ومظلته الزاهية التن ّوع الحرف الشامل ف نورمبغ ،من أشغال معدنيّة إل جلود وفخّاريّات وخزف وزجاج مل ّون. ف إحدى محلت Handwerkerhofالخرى التخصصة باللعاب ّ من القصدير تقف جيوش من جنود القصدير جاهزة للقتال إل جانب قردة تقرع الطبول مخبّأة ف صناديق .ف الاض اشتهرت ألانيا كأفضل مصنعة للعاب القصدير ف العال قبل أن تح ّول خبتها بالعادن والهندسة ّ إل صناعة أفضل سيّارات ف العال .ابتكر الحرفيّون هنا أول ألعاب السيّارات الصنوعة من صفائح القصدير ف تسعينات القرن التاسع عش وحتّى أوائل القرن العشين ،كانت نورمبغ مسؤولة عن ثلث صادرات اللعاب اليكانيكيّة ف ألانيا. ل يكن أن تجد مدينة ألانيّة أفضل من نورمبغ لتى بعض النمذج الرائعة عن الزجاج الل ّون لوجود مجموعة متن ّوعة من الصالت والكنائس والبان الداريّة .تتمثّل هذه النمذج ف نوافذ كنيستي Saint Lorenzو Saint Sebaldمن أوائل القرن السادس عش ،من ابتكار خبي الزجاج Veit Hirschvogelوتصميم أقل من هذا الستوى .يستضيف مركز ، Albrecht Dürerوليس ّ Handwerkerhofاليوم Helga Feurerوهي الف ّنانة الوحيدة التبقّية ف نورمبغ التي ترسم عل الزجاج الل ّون .ات ّخذت Feurer من Handwerkerhofمق ّرا ً لشغلها منذ أكث من ثلثي سنة لكن
66 | P RO D U C T S
Souvenir
Made for walking founded in germany in 1888, lloyd is one of the nation’s oldest shoemakers. The brand is committed to perfect ft and great design, and uses only the best materials to make its wide range of men’s and women’s shoes. Though heritage is important to the brand, lloyd is also committed to modernity, and each seasonal ofering is subtly trend-led. These caramel-coloured worker-style boots, crafted in sturdy leather, embrace the 1990s Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 58
revival trend that is sweeping the fashion world. The inner padding and chunky sole are endlessly practical as well as stylish and the leather looks better the more it’s worn. finished with lloyd’s trademark red stripe on the heel, these boots are sure to serve you well as you explore what nuremberg has to ofer. hl Lloyd Bronson boots, €189.90, lloyd, kaiserstrasse 8, 90403 nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2355 5554, lloyd.de * for map go to page 50
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Made in Germany
WMF Stores Nürnberg www.wmf.de/flialen
Nürnberg, Karolinenstraße 27, Tel. 0911/206860 Fürth, Rudolf-Breitscheid-Str. 2, Tel. 0911/770651