Gardener News
January, 2014 7
CASE FILES
From the Rutgers Master Gardeners of Union County Garden Help Line By Madeline Flahive DiNardo, Union County Agricultural Agent and Master Gardeners, MC Schwartz and James Keane Our December case file was an investigation about how to force spring flowering bulbs to bloom at home. During our year-end case file archiving, we found a few more bulb-related questions. Q. I started the “cold process” for forcing daffodil bulbs in October. When I brought the pots into my warm living room, I just got long leaves and no flowers. What happened? Leggy in Ledgewood A. Sometimes forcing bulbs does not go as smoothly as planned. The “cold process” is the 12-to-13 week period the bulbs need to be kept at temperatures of 35º F to 48ºF. The potted up bulbs can be kept in a cold frame, refrigerator, or unheated attic or cellar for this period. When the “cooling period” time has passed and the bulbs have grown a good firm root system, gradually move the pots into warmer areas. The gradual process is called acclimatizing. The first week, keep the bulbs at 50ºF to 60º F as the leaves begin to grow. When the leaves are six inches long, the pot can be moved into warmer temperatures of 68ºF and a sunny location. It may take three to four weeks for the blooms to appear. If the pots are bought into warmer temperatures too quickly, a phenomenon called “blast” or “bud-blast” may occur. The foliage grows leggy and the plant never blooms. Q. I forced Hyacinth bulbs. They bloomed, but the flowers are nestled in the leaves. How can I prevent it from happening next time I force hyacinths? Shorted in Scotch Plains A. Sometimes, when Hyacinth bulbs are forced, the blooms will be in between a “clasp” of leaves. Hyacinths need to be kept in darkness during the cooling period. To encourage the flower stem to elongate above the leaves, place the bulbs in a dark place or cover it with a paper bag for a few days during the acclimatizing period. Q. My forced bulbs were beautiful. Can I use the bulbs to force again next fall? Happy in Hillside A. Forced bulbs are usually discarded once they are done blooming. These forced bulbs can never be forced to bloom indoors again. The forcing process puts a lot of stress on the bulb. If you would like to plant the bulbs in your garden, you certainly may, but it will take several years to have flowers again. Bulbs you forced at home or flowering bulbs you purchased or received as a gift can be planted outdoors. Once the bulb has finished blooming, remove the flowers before they set seed. Keep the foliage growing as long as possible and start fertilizing with a houseplant fertilizer. The longer the foliage is alive, the more food reserves the bulb will store for future growth. The foliage will eventually die back. Remember, it is part of the growth cycle. When the leaves die back, you can store the bulbs in a cool, dry place and plant them in the fall. If the bulb is soft or has any signs of damage, discard the bulb. It is very susceptible to insect or disease problems. If the foliage is still growing in the spring, you can plant the bulbs outdoors after the last spring frost. The foliage will die back and the bulb’s natural growth cycle starts again. Be patient. It will take the bulbs several years to bloom again. Be ready for lots of foliage for a few years! Q. Is it true you can force some bulbs to bloom in water? Water weary in Westfield A. Yes, there are some bulbs that can be forced in water. There are specially designed vases that can be used. For example, a vase for forcing hyacinths has an hour glass shape. The bottom half is filled with water. The hyacinth bulb is placed in the top half. Keep the vase in a cool (50ºF), dark area for four to eight weeks. When roots develop and shoots appear, gradually move the vase to a bright window. Narcissus (daffodils) can also be forced to bloom in water. Select a waterproof container that has four- to five-inch sides. Fill the shallow pot or sided dish with clean crushed rock or pebbles. Pour water over the rocks. Arrange the bulbs in the container so that the basal plate (flat bottom of the bulbs where the roots grow from) is touching water. The bulbs should be close together, but not touching. Only the basal plate should be in contact with the water. Keep the container in a cool (less than 48ºF) dark room for several weeks. It may take eight to 10 weeks for the top growth to begin. Check the container occasionally, as it may need more water. When sprouts appear and are about three inches long and flower buds appear, gradually move the container to a bright location. The ideal temperature to keep blooming daffodils at is 60ºF. The bulbs should be discarded after they are finished blooming. Editor’s Note: The Union County Master Gardener’s HELP LINE fields hundreds of citizen inquiries a year – offering assistance with their indoor as well as outdoor gardening and pest-control questions. Responses to resident phone calls and on-site visits comply with current Rutgers NJ Agricultural Experiment Station recommendations. Union County residents can call (908) 6549852 or email mastergardeners@ucnj.org for assistance. A complete listing of Rutgers Cooperative Extension (RCE) offices where you can contact a Master Gardener in your area can be found on page 22 of the Gardener News. Free RCE fact sheets are available at www.njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs