Climbing Costa Rica

Page 64

64

Routes

A single small wall of approximately 10m hosts only 3 routes that provide a good learning ground for those not wanting to jump head first into lead rock climbing. During the wet season, the wall can become very dirty due to the rain, therefore summer climbing is recommended and you may need to do a quick cleaning of some of the holds. Climbs are listed from let to right when facing the wall and your back is to the road.

46) Piolin, 5.9, 5a FA: Ry Morrison

Start directly to the right of the large tree root. The beginning moves of this climb are by far the hardest. If you are looking for an easier start (and a grade closer to 5.7 than 5.9), use the root to work your way up to the beginning of the crack. For a greater challenge, attempt to climb solely the face on small ledges and crimps. Continue through the good holds and high steps to follow the right side of the crack before traversing slightly to the right to a mailbox slot ledge and then directly up to a second ledge and the anchors. Movement from the first ledge to the second ledge can be a bit of a reach for shorter climbers, although, some fairly creative ways to get to the anchors have been successfully applied. Approximate Height 7m, 5 draws

47) Diedro, 5.10c, 6b FA: Ry Morrison

Just to the right of Piolin, and ending with the same anchors, is Diedro. Start by standing on the protruding ramp that moves up to the right towards Ron. Use the two low pockets to position yourself before traversing right onto a crimp and geston. Use some burly strength to get to the pocket just above and then clip the second bolt on the extremely deep monster pocket. From here traverse to the left using a sloper and a couple of wide stances with decent ledges before getting to the anchors shared with Piolin. In the final push for the anchors Diedro uses some of the same holds as Piolin, but to maintian the 5.10c difficulty try to stay as far to the right as possible. Approximate Height 7m, 5 draws

El Coliseo


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.