IRISH BARBERS JOURNAL
Autumn 2015 Vol.2
HELLO Welcome to the second issue of the Irish Barbers Journal, a free digital magazine for all those working in and around the barbering industry in Ireland. I’d like to thank everyone for the postive feedback on the first issue. It was a bit of a shot in the dark as I wasn’t sure if the interest would be out there for a journal of this nature, but I was happily surprised by the number of people who engaged with it and it spurred me on to make this issue even bigger and better. I am also incredibly thankful to everyone who has taken the time to contribute voluntarily to this issue. I hope readers find it both a useful and enjoyable read. Last but by no means least, I’d like to thank Pádraig at The Dublin School of Barbering (aka my boss man) for his encouragement and support with this project. Mary
Editor & Designer: Mary Fleming, Dublin School of Barbering Supervisor: Pádraig Carr, Dublin School of Barbering & Finnegan’s Green Rooster Cover & Inside Pages: Photograper-Molly O’Neill Styling-Systemic Hair Academy Enquiries: mary@dublinschoolofbarbering.com Web: www.dublinschoolofbarbering.com issuu.com/dublinschoolofbarbering Address: Dublin School of Barbering, Finnegan’s Green Rooster, Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2
06. 07. 08. 12. 16. 18. 22. 24. 28. 30. 32. 34. 35.
‘Must Speak Irish’ - Finnegan’s Green Rooster A Minimalist Hair Routine - The House of Man Current Cuts - Sam’s Barbers, Barbiere & T-Fades Contemporary Classic Cut Tutorial - Systemic Hair Academy The Upsurge in the Popularity of Male Grooming
- David Craig
Roches Barbers, A Timeline - Ciaran Clarke A 20 year Barbering Career -Frank Hackett Grand Finals and Female Cuts - Paul Mac Special Are Beards Here to Stay? - Mark Sproston Representing Ireland at The OMC Europe Cup - Richie Lalor Coming to Ireland to Train - Felipe Santiago So you Want to be a Barber - Liane Murray
Maintaining Standards Outside of the Barbershop - Phil Dalton
CONGRATULATIONS! Phil Dalton aka ‘The Blackmayne Barber ‘ Boxx Barber Shop, Mayor Square IFSC
Winner of ‘Britain & Ireland’s Best Young Barber’ The Pro Hair & Beauty Awards 2015
The Grooming Rooms South William Street, Dublin 2
Winner of ‘Best Salon’ The Irish Times Best Shops Competition 2015
WATCH OUT FOR... The Northern Ireland Hair & Beauty Awards 2015 September 13th Europa, Belfast http://www.hairandbeautyawards.info/nihaba/
OMC Europe Cup 2015
September 20th & 21st Paris http://www.omchairworld.com/
An Féidir Leat Gaeilge a Labhairt? Pádraig Carr of Finnegan’s Green Rooster is searching for a barber that speaks fluent Irish. real deal, and Pádraig is trying to keep the culture alive by hiring an Irish speaking barber. We asked Pádraig where his desire to locate such a barber comes from:
“Well, my great Grandfather was a part of the Gaelic League and set up the first Irish College in Ulster. He taught people like Roger Casement, Plunkett, Pearse, and a lot of the other leaders from the 1916 Rising.
“One major thing is that people are afraid to speak the language. I’d just like people to know that there’s no fear in here, that they can come in at any level and we’ll speak to them.” When you step into Finnegan’s Green Rooster on Fleet Street, Temple Bar, there are a number of small details that make it stand out as being a uniquely Irish shop. There’s the child of Prague keeping the rain out of the place, the Irish sign on the foor that is so proudly hung, and then of course, there’s Pádraig. Pádraig will always greet you in Irish, a terrifying prospect for most of us who never really connected with the language due to years of learning it the wrong way in state schools. But then again, it’s also a comforting reminder of our heritage and you quickly remind yourself that it shouldn’t seem so alien. Being in such a well known tourist spot, it’s hard to believe that you might find a place like Finnegan’s Green Rooster where Irish culture is genuinely embraced and not just peddled at extortionate prices, but it’s the
is advantageous for a person. It gives you quite a unique thought process. It’s mad really, usually when I put an advert up looking for a new barber I’m absolutely inundated. But this time around I only got three responses, and to be honest I felt like most of them were chancing their arm a bit as they didn’t speak any Irish. So the quest goes on, but it is an end goal of mine to have an (although not exclusively) Irish speaking barbershop. It’s great to keep our native tongue alive, and it’s also something a little bit different for the tourists around the area.” As Pádraig says, the only way to learn a language is to speak it. So why not drop into Finnegan’s Green Rooster and work on your blás?
I suppose that is something that has stuck with me throughout my life and I like the idea of having a little ‘Gaelteacht’ in the barbershop, as I grew up in one myself. People who want to brush up on their Irish can come in and have a chat with us. The big thing I like to work on is the ‘blás’, which is Irish for ‘flavour’ and really just means fluency and ease of use. One major thing is that people are afraid to speak the language. I’d just like people to know that there’s no fear in here, that they can come in at any level and we’ll speak to them. Of course you don’t have to speak Irish when you come in, but sure - the option is there and that’s the main thing! Did Pádraig believe there were any major advantages to being a bilingual barber?
“I truly believe that being bilingual
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Fleet Street, Temple Bar, D.2 green.rooster.barbershop finnegansgreenrooster.com
A Minimalist Hair Routine Thom of The House of Man blog details his simple everyday hair routine. When I was asked to write about my hair routine, I have to admit that I was a bit astounded. My hair routine is very much of a laisse-faire disposition, and the emphasis would definitely be on the lazy! I know that the modern well-groomed gent invests a lot of time, products and money on their mop, but I’m just not one of them. Don’t get me wrong; I do have serious hair envy when I see amazing advertorials and what-not. But for me personally, I like to keep my hair short and there’s not a whole lot of styling options for short hair. This is for everyday convenience but also for work. As a teacher, I have to be more conservative with my hair styles.
“I tend to gravitate towards products that look and feel like I have nothing in my hair.” A quick rundown of what my hair is like; it’s quite fine, but there’s lots of it. The bane of my existence is that I have tremendously greasy hair and dandruff.Now this dandruff isn’t the standard dusting of white flakes on the shoulders, but white bits that cling to hair roots. This is the greasy type of dandruff – the sebum and oils keep the dry skin cells close to the scalp and thus I get these tiny pesky white beads on my scalp. Not attractive, huh? But other than that I’m quite lucky with my hair; if it’s cut right, I don’t have to bother with any styling products. My hair seems to naturally be the way I like it to be.
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My arsenal of hair products is pretty abysmal but all of them are gems in my eyes. My favourite shampoo to combat the dreaded flakes is Head & Shoulders Citrus Fresh Shampoo. A true classic for combating dandruff and keeping your scalp flake free. Furthermore this citrus dynamo blasts through the most stubborn of grease, leaving hair clean, fresh and light. Another favourite is the Aussie Mega Shampoo; I actually find this to be a great shampoo that gently clarifies your hair. It also kicks dandruff’s flakey butt!
“I definitely think that a true classic wellgroomed gentleman opts for a more traditional approach in terms of style and products.” I do use styling products but I tend to gravitate towards products that look and feel like I have nothing in my hair. I also prefer products that are quick and easy to use. The Toni & Guy Casual Sea Salt Texturising Spray creates an outstanding casual hold for an easy, and fast look. I lightly spray it onto the top of my mane, focusing on my fringe and lightly scrunch my hair to give it a messy but neat look. I use the LYNX Black Casual Styling Clay when I want a stronger hold. This is a fantastic lightweight clay, as it has a matt finish and is ideal for everyday to formal use. So there you have it, a minimalist hair routine in the era of quiffs and slick backs. But I definitely think that a true classic well-groomed gentleman opts for a more traditional approach in terms of style and products. @TheHouseOfMan @TheHouse0fMan bloglovin.com/blogs/house-man-14082215
Current Cuts Irish barbers detail their most sought afer styles
SAM’S BARBERS We are big believers in traditional barbering, so we stay away from the likes of our ‘pet-hates’: • Hairdressing sectioning techniques • Hair clips • Coloured numbered clipper guards. Instead, we focus on barber cutting techniques and open razor hot towel shaving. Currently Fashionable Hairstyles Hairstyle fashions come and go and we see it as the barbers part of trade to be creative and advise clients on what suits them best. Its not a case of whats hot or not but what suits the clients lifestyle currently. Do they have a conservative job that requires a conservative look or are they hip and young where anything goes? Hairstyle The hairstyle in these images was performed using a mixture of traditional clipper & scissors over comb work. The models hair has a healthy wave so its best not to fight it, but work with it. The haircut was tapered at the base and around the ears using clipper over comb to achieve a clean smooth finish. There was also a light bit of scissors work on the longer lengths to add texture and show off the natural wave. The result is a natural but clean finished hairstyle which is easy to style and versatile enough to suit either a clean smart look or a more casual styled look. We dressed the hair of course with Pomp & Co. Grooming Goods, which is our own formulated range of products. We use our Pomade for the high shine, slicked finished looks and our haircream for the natural matte finished styles.
28 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 www.samsbarbers.com - www.pomp.ie Sam’s Barbers @samsbarberingireland @samsbarbersireland - @pompandco
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BARBIERE
The style we find most popular with our customer is the softer, textured look similar to Jake Gyllenhaal’s in the above picture. This style is moving away from the heavy fades which have dominated men’s fashion for the past five years. Guys have been slowly but surely leaving behind 0 to 1 blade “short back and sides” and looking for something new. This look is a less harsh and more professional “groomed man” look. We see from the catwalks of Milan that male models are wearing medium length hair that’s been scissor-cut and is bespoke to the shape of their face and head. This gives men more freedom to style their hair in more than one way. This trend in Barbiere is especially good for clients who want a more sophisticated look and is styled with softer creams to give a more natural finish. Using the right product is a must as everyone’s hair is different in texture, density and volume. At Barbiere we use the full range of Medavita men’s products – which we also retail - to achieve this classic style.
23 Camden St. Lower, Dublin 2. 01 5561764 barbiere.ie facebook.com/barbiereirl @barbieredublin @barbieredublin
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T-FADES This classic haircut was created with a cordless Wahl ChromeStyle Pro, Sterling Silver 2, and of course the balding blade for that cutting edge finish. It affords a gliding natural taper that is just excellent for any modern man on the go. I absolutely love these tapers, and when they’re matched up with a suit it makes for an incredibly classy appearance. Although the cut looks neat it is actually quite far from this, it has been constructed with various styles in mind rather than just your average slicked back look. To create this style I used various point cutting scissors (I never use thinning scissors unless it is specifically requested that I do so). I enjoy cutting freely and I don’t tend to follow lines. This might sound slightly crazy, but I don’t seek a uniform finish. I want each cut to appear unique. To me, each head is like a block of ice and I have my own tools to just be free and creative with it. In my mind this is what modern barbering is all about . I believe that people want to be unique and that they don't want to be the same as the last gent that’s just gone out the door. Hair is one of the basic ways in which you can express yourself and who you are, much like clothing. It’s all about individuality with me - creativity is key. The finishing touches consisted of a very small amount of or own specially formulated male grooming product, a T-Fade’s Barbershop matte finish named (T-puk ). I then brought a tiny amount of serum through the hair. A huge thanks to our model Gerry Lane and of course our excellent photographer Tom Mick of ‘Tom Mick’s Photography’. -Tola, Shop Owner
T-Fades Barbershop, Ennis , Co.Clare 087 271 0024 facebook.com/Tfadesbarbers
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Contemporary Classic Cut Tutorial Systemic Hair Academy
www.systemichairacademy.com Photography by Molly O’Neill
With Eric's hair we decided to work with an invisibly disconnected shape to maintain a classic look but eliminate width and volume through the use of subtle disconnection.
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Start by taking a horizontal parting from the recession area to the top of the ear on both sides. Continue across the back of the head half way between the crown and the occipital bone and connect to the opposite side creating a horseshoe section. This will isolate the top shape from the bottom shape.
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Use sectioning clips to secure the hair and enable more control with the technique.
With your finger pointing down comb the hair straight out and cut a graduated line from long to short. Take parallel sections towards the front hairline and over-direct each section back to the previous. This will create a square shape
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The first cutting section is taken vertically at the top of the right ear.
Repeat the same procedure on the left side but with your fingers pointing up. This will allow more accuracy with the over-direction.
Systemic is the first Irish company dedicated solely to hair-cutting techniques. It was created by entrepreneur and Director of Systemic Aaron Keegan, after he returned home to his native Dublin from an international career in the hairdressing industry. Part of the Systemic mission is to give learners an in depth understanding of the dynamics of cutting hair.
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Cross check both sides horizontally for a clean technique. Visually check the balance before moving to the next step.
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With your fingers pointing up start from As the area below the occipital the top of the ear on the right side and bone is reached lower your using the previously cut section as a hand position to achieve a guide comb the hair straight out and cut a more fitted graduation. graduated line from long to short.
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Repeat the same procedure on the left side but with your fingers pointing down.
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Dry the hair and use mini irons to flatten the texture. This will allow for more precision when personalizing.
Continue with parallel sections overdirecting each one to the previous and finishing at the centre back. This will create a more rounded shape mirroring the curvature of the horseshoe.
To start the invisible disconnection take a centre vertical section that runs from just below the crown to the front hairline. Allowing the hair below the crown to drop away, comb the hair straight up and cut a square line. This will leave longer lengths at the crown area and the fringe. Continue with parallel sections and over-direct each one to the previous for a more square shape. Cross check horizontally for a clean technique. Visually check the balance.
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Dry the bottom shape and personalize the texture of the hair with point cutting. Refine the hairline edges with a combination of the scissors and neck razor. Always make sure the weight distribution on hairlines are balanced. The shape will grow out a lot better this way.
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Use deep parallel point cutting to remove extra weight and volume creating a visual blend.
Style with Wella Refined Texture for a matte separation and Sebastian Zero Gravity hairspray to finish the look.
“The haircut I got from Aaron Keegan finally gave my hair the shape and style that I was looking for. I wasn't exactly sure how I wanted it at first but we decided on taking away the weight on top as well as the awkward lengths around the ears and the back with a scissors finish to give it a smooth, sharp look. It looks great and now it's tidy and sits well - plus it’s now more manageable than before and still leaves me with the option to style it back or forward, messy or straight. It's a fact that a good smooth haircut gives you that little bit of extra confidence.” -Eric
A big thank you to Robert Chambers for allowing us to use his salon for this shoot, from all at Systemic Hair Academy.
The Rise of Male Grooming in Ireland David Craig of the Derry Barber Company weighs in. increasingly men need to look neat, groomed and styled in today’s modern society. The current trend of the 1920s and 1950s retro male haircuts and beards also require the unique skills offered by a barber, who is especially trained and equipped to use the clipper and comb.
The Traditional Barbershop I come from a long line of barbers. My uncles, brothers, cousins and many other family members have dedicated their lives to cutting men’s hair. My Uncle Johnny McElwee is one of Strabane’s longest standing barbers. I have vivid memories of going to his barbershop since I was around 7 or 8 years old. I was fascinated with the place and the atmosphere within it. It was a warm, friendly male cocoon where there were really interesting men from all walks of life who held really captivating conversations. There was always jovial wit, banter and a deep form of social interaction. The men were happy. The barber was happy. It was a great place to be. It was a kind of tradition back then, fathers took their sons to the barbershop on a Saturday where they got their mane tamed and a dose of male bonding and grooming before the weekend commenced. The Resurgence of Retro Styles & The Social Hub At a very broad level I think that barbers have witnessed a surge in popularity in Ireland because
At another level, the barbershop is - and always has been a social hub. It is a place where you get a true indication of the culture of a place, where men come and debate local issues and share local folklore. It is a place where men come during their key life events; preparing for the first day at school, after births of their children and christenings, job interviews, when they are getting married and sadly when people pass away. Opportunities for this old school type of face-to-face interaction are becoming more and more endangered in today’s digital age.
“Perhaps barbershops are becoming a nostalgic refuse for those seeking the culture and values of a bygone era.” The Rise of Social Media Conversely the growth of digital communications and social media has also significantly helped promote the industry and been a driver in its popularity. Barbers are able to showcase their work and indeed this has raised the expectation of men in terms of what constitutes a good haircut. Ironically in today’s increasingly introverted, technologically
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advanced society with a growing metrosexual male identity, the culture and services of the traditional barbershop setting is one which has remained steadfast. Perhaps barbershops are becoming a nostalgic refuse for those seeking the culture and values of a bygone era. The Modern Customer These days, the average customer is seeking to develop and maintain a tailored style that suits his hair type, bone structure and growth pattern. Many men now purchase styling products or come in for advice when they are beginning to recede or experience pattern balding. Beard styling has experienced a resurgence with a significant amount of new beard products on the market. Traditional wet shaving with the hot towels and the cut throat razor is also becoming a frequently soughtafter treatment for men - who just want an hour lazing on a quality barber chair and to get up looking and feeling amazingly fresh and sharp. My best customer, and the customers I get most job satisfaction from, are those men who come in when they feel that they really need a haircut or a shave based on their individual circumstances. I have customers who come in three times a week because they consistently want to maintain the ‘fresh from the barber chair’ look or they want a cut throat shave on their head and do not like any regrowth at all. They spend £10 each time. I have other customers who come in every week. I have customers who have come to me since they were babies and have now grown
to be confident young men with careers and families. I have customers that come in weekly for the past twenty five years. We have maintained the relationship during births, deaths and marriages. He spent £6 when he started with me 25 years ago and now spends £10. He also may buy some male styling products when leaving. I also like customers who have a story to tell. For example, I fondly remember a shy 16 year old boy from Dungloe. He had saved up all his pocket money to travel over 100 miles to Derry to get a haircut and a luxury hot towel cut throat shave before his school leaving ball. This young man had his whole life ahead of him and was brimming with excitement, promise and awe. He spent £45. I also hold free confidential consultations with men who are struggling to come to terms with baldness and are unsure of styling and products that will make them feel more confident at work and at home. On another day, a 70 year old woman brought her 90 year old Daddy into the barbershop for an old style cut throat hot towel shave for his birthday and they both left somewhat nostalgic and chuffed to bits with the service. He spent £25. I was once asked to call out to a hospice to give a long standing customer a haircut. I visited a man who is heroically struggling with a terminal illness with his
young family around him and who, despite all his frailties still asked his wife to contact us to ask us to call out because he desperately wanted to get his haircut. I could not and would not charge this customer at this time.
“I opened my doors in 2013 with two barbers and an apprentice at the height of the economic downturn.The demand has been significant.” It is days like that – when I am able to make men feel good about themselves - and provide a quality service - during their various life journeys, that convince me that I have the best job in the world. Opening my Own Business The demand for male grooming has most definitely increased in recent years. I recognise that male grooming is intrinsically linked to the whims of fashion and indeed the economy. Nevertheless, I opened my doors in 2013 with two barbers and an apprentice at the height of the economic downturn. The demand has been significant. I know there is a saying that if you want a good barber, you have to be prepared to wait in a queue. We have seven working on the barbershop floor now and have expanded the number of barber stations to 8 since opening. I think our success is due to the
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fact that we have a great team of highly skilled barbers who share the same values and passion for their work. Prices are still incredibly low to remain competitive within the local market and we all work long, hard hours. The market is also flooded with eager young men and women who have just completed NVQ barbering courses yet still have significant skills gaps in terms of creating a great male haircut. I have worked with the British Association of Master Barbers and the Hair Council to ensure that The Derry Barber Company is a state registered barbershop and is quality accredited. I feel more regulation of this type is required within the industry. I also would advise that customers should be mindful of this before opting for the barber offering the quickest haircut with the shortest queue. It’s a labour of love. I am pleased that we have created a modest, steady income for a group of great barbers who share a passion and pride for their profession. The Derry Barber Company was never set up with the aspiration of success or money. It was about doing what we do best and enjoy most. thederrybarbercompany.com The Derry Barber Company The Derry Barber Company 22 Great James Street Londonderry
Roches Barbershop & Shaving Saloon Ciaran Clarke a 5th generation barber of the Roche Family is the proud owner of two Kildare barbershops, one in Kildare town, the other in Monasterevin. With almost 140 years of successful family businesses under their belts, we were interested in speaking to Ciaran and learning more about the history of this barbering dynasty. son, worked as a ships barber on transatlantic routes before settling in America in 1911. So it was Thomas Roche that founded the original shop. Could you tell us more about him? Thomas Roche ran his business on Haddington Road for 9 years before moving it to 34 North Strand Road in 1887. This 1890’s north city salon was reputed to be the most hygienic in Dublin, decorated extensively with marble and tile. It also had seven hairdressing points to ensure efficient service.
Lucy Roche 1838 - 1914
Thomas Roche 1861 - 1937
Ciaran, where did it all begin – how did the first ‘Roches Barbershop’ come about? It all began with Lucinda (Lucy) Byrne who was born in 1838 in St. Stephens Green, Dublin. Lucy started her hairdressing career in 1850 aged just twelve years old, and she carried out her profession by visiting and attending to the grooming needs of the nobility of Dublin in their own homes. In 1860 she married John Roche, and so began the the Roche era in hairdressing. Lucy and John had seven children, five sons and two daughters. Four sons became barbers and one of the daughters a hairdresser. It was their eldest son Thomas Roche that opened the first barbershop under the Roche name at 9 Haddington Road, Dublin in 1878. Lucy then opened a barbershop in 1879 at 60 North King Street before moving in 1889 to 31 Upper Ormond Quay. Other family members had shops in Capel Street, Winetavern Street and Wood Quay. Nicholas, another
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In 1880 Thomas had married Anne Foley, they had three sons and three daughters. The three sons became barbers. The youngest son Joseph married Eileen Keane in 1927, and they lived above the North Strand shop before moving to Kimmage on Dublin’s southside in 1934. A passion for barbering seems to have been inherited throughout the generations. How did Joseph Roche continue on his father’s tradition? Joseph, or Joe as he was known, took over the family business in 1930. However, in 1941 a German bomb destroyed Roche & Sons 34 North Strand Road. Ten months later in March 1942, Joe re-opened Roches at 153 Lower Kimmage Road, Dublin and that is still in business today. Joe and Eileen had seven sons and a daughter, five of his sons and his daughter followed in the hairdressing tradition, working in the Kimmage establishment. The eldest son Brendan, a qualified trichologist, took over the business in 1956 and a ladies salon was established in 1957 at the rear of the barbershop. Brendan’s son, Donal, now manages the Kimmage barbershop since he retired. The second son, Vincent, opened his barbershop on the Drimnagh Road in 1952. The third son, Fergus, relocated the ladies salon upstairs along with his sister Maura in 1962. Maura went on to work there
31 Upper Ormond Quay, 1900
34 North Strand Road, 1941
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until 1973. The fourth son, Kevin, established his barbershop in Churchtown in 1979. The fifth son, Desmond, has his barbershop at 34 Baldoyle road, Sutton, which opened in 1988 and is now being run by his two sons Colin and Conor.
“Roche’s Barbers have always strived to offer the highest standards in barbering throughout the generations and I will endeavour to continue with this tradition handed down to me by my family.” With so much talent passing from generation to generation, have there been any stand out stars in the family? In 1973 Maura Clarke (my mother) began teaching hairdressing at Crumlin College and went on to become the head of the hairdressing department there. She was also a department of education examiner for National Hairdressing Trades certificates as well as an external examiner for the National Council for Vocational Awards until her retirement in 2008. In 2005 Maura was one of the first people and indeed the first woman to be inducted into the the Irish Hairdressers Federation Hall of Leaders. Her brother, Brendan, was also inducted into the Hall of Leaders three years later in 2008. So we have two icons in the one family.
Kildare in August 2002. The success of that shop lead me to open a second shop in Monasterevin in April 2007. More recently, the staff of Roches Barbers in Kildare have had a great year with competitions. Amanda won the American Crew ‘Irish All Star Challenge’, Derek was a finalist in the Visionary Awards, and Paul came third in the UK Barber Battle at Barber Connect in Wales - with Amanda and Derek being top ten finalists. What are your hopes for the future of Roches Barbershops? Roche’s Barbers have always strived to offer the highest standards in barbering throughout the generations and I will endeavour to continue with this tradition handed down to me by my family. I plan to build upon our brand over the coming years, my next project is expected to be up and running in January 2016. Going forward, I would hope to see some of the next generation taking up the tools of the trade and becoming 6th generation barbers.
Maura had three sons with her husband Christopher William Clarke (Willie), two of them followed in the family tradition. Eoin is now the national educator for the large hairdressing chain ‘Hairhouse Warehouse’ in Australia, and then there’s myself, Ciaran, the owner of two barbershops. How have you contributed towards this barbering legacy, Ciaran? I served my apprenticeship with Kevin Roche (my Uncle) and went on to work in various barber shops in the city, including the Green Dolphin. I then gained some invaluable experience in Melbourne where I lived for 7 years. I opened my first barber shop there in 1993.
Roches Staff 2015
I decided to return to Dublin in 1996 and took up employment in the Waldorf Barbers in Dublin. In 2000, I set up my own business on Clanbrassil Street, Dublin. One of my greatest moments in the industry to date was when myself and a member of my staff won first and second place in the 2001 Irish Hairdressing Federation’s National Competition. This was in the ‘Men’s Freestyle Event’. By this time, I was living in Kildare Town and saw the need for a good quality barbers, it was then that I opened Roches Barbers in
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www.rochesbarbers.ie facebook.com/rochesbarbers @rochesbarbers @rochesbarbers
Joe Roche, 1900-1976
Maura & Brendan
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Ciaran Clarke
My Barbering Career Frank Hackett of Retro Barbershop details his journey over almost twenty years of barbering and shares his industry knowledge with those hoping to follow in his footsteps. I have been barbering for almost twenty years now. I originally started out my barbering journey in 1994, when while I was still attending school I’d cut my friends hair in my father’s shop. That was Hackett’s Barbershop, which opened in 1926 . When I finished school,I began a career working for Hugh Campbell in Limerick City. I stayed there for almost four years. Even though my father and grandfather were barbers, I was more interested in hairdressing at the time and I wanted to learn about ladies hairdressing before venturing into barbering. However, in my spare time I was always cutting men’s hair, taking extra classes, and practicing on the lads in the salon.
“There was no youtube or social media around at this time, so it was quite difficult to find information on training and courses” In late 1999, my father asked my if I would come and work for him for a week as cover while he took his holidays. It was a big change, going from a big salon to a small barbershop - but I felt at home straight away and it turned out that I was much more comfortable doing gents hair . My first wage as a barber was £135 a week, which was more than double what I was getting as a hairdresser. After that first week I was hooked and there was certainly no going back I continued to upskill over the next three years, attending courses in London, Dublin and wherever else I
could to perfect my barbering skills. There was no youtube or social media around at this time, so it was quite difficult to find information on training and courses
“...the ability to communicate with my clients and students on all levels ensures that I can deliver a quality service every time.” After spending eight years in the family business I found myself getting itchy feet and felt I needed a new challenge. So, in 2007 I opened Retro Barber Shop in a 1200sq ft unit in the heart of Limerick City centre. I wanted to give our clients a unique experience, and also to offer a high standard of authentic traditional barbering with a big focus on customer service. Eight years later we’re still going strong and growing steadily each year. Since we opened in 2007 my staff and I have managed to build a solid reputation in Limerick and the mid-west for pro barbering and barber training. I say ‘pro barbering’ because this is what we do. We are professional barbers with very high standards and expectations. We spend a lot of time and energy ensuring our staff are trained to the highest standards and that their skills are up to date. We have been lucky enough to pick up many awards over the years. In 2003 and 2004 we obtained runner up and third place in the IHF ‘Men’s Freestyle’ category. In 2014, I was
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shortlisted for the top ten in the ‘Classic Master’ category at Barber Connect in Newport, Wales. I was also a finalist in the ‘L’Oreal Men’s Image’ award. More recently, we were lucky enough to be voted into fourth place in the Irish Daily Star’s ‘Top 10 Irish Barber Shops ‘. I believe there are 3 Key Rules that contribute the success of Retro Communication For me, the ability to communicate with my clients and students on all levels ensures that I can deliver a quality service every time. To understand exactly what the customer wants can sometimes be a task in itself, so being able to communicate effectively with
our customers helps us to build loyalty and trust. Attention to detail This is the difference between an average barber and a pro barber - it is what sets us apart from our competitors. Spending extra time on styling and personalising the haircut with your own finishing techniques that suit each customer individually makes a huge difference. Consistency It is so important to deliver a consistent service for your clients as this is what brings them back to you. At the end of the day, it’s the least they deserve. Some of our customers travel long distances to visit us and they walk past a lot of other barber shops before getting their hair cut at Retro, so we appreciate that. Retro barber Academy In 2007 we launched Retro Barber Academy where we provide accredited barbering courses for beginner up to advanced level barbers. After being asked consistently by barbers & hairdressers over the years to offer
advanced and accredited training courses we decided it was time to set up the academy. We now run courses all year round, making us the leading barber training provider in the mid-west. I am also a guest barber trainer in several hairdressing colleges and barber schools around the country, such as Bellissimo Limerick, Sharon Leavy College Portlaoise, and The Style Parlour in Waterford.
“The last 5 years have been a challenge for us as, I’m sure they have for many, but I believe that they have helped to make us more creative and innovative, and that they pushed us outside of our comfort zone.” Barbering has become more than just a job to me - it is a way of life. I am grateful that I can travel the country with my work, meeting new people every day. I have been lucky to work and train with some of the best
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barbers in our industry today such as Chris Foster, Dale Ted Watkins and Kevin Vorley. I am constantly learning and looking for inspiration for my next big project. The last 5 years have been a challenge for us as, I’m sure they have for many, but I believe that they have helped to make us more creative and innovative, and that they pushed us outside of our comfort zone. For the year ahead, I am hoping to keep building on the Retro brand. I also intend to educate myself further so that I can continue to push the boundaries of my barbering ability. www.retrobarbers.ie
Grand Finals & Female Cuts Paul Mac Special has worked hard to become one of Ireland’s most well known barbers. We spoke to him about the awards that he’s won and another unique thing that he’s become known for recently - women’s haircuts. Photography by Erich Stack, David Racuglia, Project V Photography, Amy Frahill Photography & Prohibition Design Co Paul, you’ve become internationally renowned for your big wins and exciting features. Could you give us the low-down on the achievements you’re most proud of from the last year or so? The achievements that I’m most proud of are probably my competition wins. It all started a year and a half ago when I won the Alfaparf Fantastic Hairdresser award for ‘Best Gents Stylist’. I was the first barber to ever do so. I was a massive underdog in the competition and I’ll never forget that feeling when I won. My heart was racing and when I heard my name being called for the first time I just bawled my eyes out. I then went on to win the ‘Men’s
Full Fashion’ award at the IHF. Unfortunately there was an initial mix up with the votes so I never got my moment on stage (I got my trophy in the post weeks later) but all’s well that ends well. A week later, I heard that I was Ireland’s American Crew winner, which lead to me winning the Men’s Health Magazine award at the American Crew Allstar Global Challenge in Lisbon. It was Ireland’s first and only time to make it into the finals. To be considered from 1,100 entries, then down to 14 was amazing. But then to stand on stage in front of 3,500 people, bring home an award for second place overall, have my work featured in the worlds biggest mens magazine and finally to
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have the most popular men’s cut on Pinterest last year - it will always be hard for me to top! Also, having my work feature on the front of two more magazines and to have more in the pipeline is pretty sick. What does the run-up to a big competition involve, could you take us through the process? Firstly, I start by getting a mood board together. I do this by gathering different images on platforms like Pinterest and Instagram. I then morph different elements of cuts together so that I can visualise the final style and put my own spin on it. The same goes for outfits and styling - I mix up different looks to
I’ve done a lot of research on social media, the science of how it works and the rest. It’s all about considering the unique selling points that you need to grab people’s attention. They can be good or bad - dare to be different! My whole Paul Mac Special name may come across as arrogant to some, but it comes from Cork slang - I’m actuallly named after a snackbox special! It’s a term for my cuts rather than myself. Fancy clippers aside, the tool that has benefited me the most is definitely my Iphone. Being able to make collages, contruct before and after images, and to put my logos on images just makes everything look far more professional.
get a theme. Although I do sometimes use a stylist when I need an extra edge.
However, I definitley feel more at home in a barbers - you can’t beat the craic you have at work!
I then search for a suitable model, some competitions require more edgy models, others more commercial. I own Vanity Vague Model Agency, so I tend to source my models from there as personally I favour the edgy look. That and they’re cheaper...haha!
Over the last year I’ve been advised to tone things down, that I’m too ahead of my time and that what the crowd favours is not always what the judges want. But I feel that competitions should be progressive rather than just repetitive, so I always try to stay true to myself and I’d rather be marmite than vanilla any day!
Next thing I would do is search for a good photographer, as there are often pre-entrance rounds where your phoros are screened. Finally, for a live competition I’d pre-do the cut and colour a few days before and touch them up on the day. How does competing abroad compare with competing in Ireland, do you feel extra pressure when representing Ireland on a world stage? It’s a strange one, I obviously feel pressure representing Ireland (especially in something that I live for) but at same time I have great management, teammates and a crew of people there to help and support me for the bigger competitions. It’s quite different for Irish competitions as I’m usually just there with my fiance and two models. I do get slightly envious of some of the bigger salons and the emphasis that the whole staff place on competitions.
What advice would you give to up and coming barbers with regards to competitions, where should they start? I’d suggest starting in photographic competitions as there’s a lot less pressure. You have all day to perfect your look without someone looking over your shoulder. In some competitions you only have 25 minuntes to do a cut and style. Considering the fact that I’d spend at least 40 minutes on every cut in the shop it can be a bit frustrating! A bad experience starting out might wreck someones confidence for future projects, so that’s why I’d suggest photographic competitions initially. Apart from your wins, you’ve managed to cause a bit of a social media storm with your cuts. Aside from your obvious talent for barbering, what other elements do you think have aided your online popularity?
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But I guess my honesty is what appeals to people the most. I wear my heart on my sleeve - tell the bad alongside the good. There have been many occassions where people have pulled me aside and asked for me not to say certain things on Facebook, but I genuinely sleep sounder when I get my feelings off my chest. Also, what these people don’t see are the numerous emails that I get from barbers and stylists all over the world who say that they love my honest approach and that they look up to me. There’s alot of alpha male bravado in the industry these days, so I’d like to think that I’m doing it for the underdogs and black sheep of the world. What’s the next step for you, what would you like to have achieved by this time next year? The next step is to hopefully to compete in British barber competitions. I guess it’s like everything else, if you’re a footballer or musician - cracking the UK is a massive thing to do. To compete with Britain’s best would be an absolute honour. I’ll be honest, I’m not the type of person to say ‘it’s the taking part that counts’. If someone deserves a win, I’ll be the first to shake their hand. But it does kill me to lose at times, knowing I’ve been hard done by. Honestly, being a gracious loser is hard work. However, I’ve experienced bad losers in the past and I never want to be that sort of guy, so I always make sure to congratulate those who are on the podium. But who knows, anything can happen on the day of a competition so fingers crossed for all my future endeavours. Continued on Next Page
With regards to women’s haircuts, how did you start doing them initially - did you advertise an interest in doing them in the barbershop or was it just a natural progression? I’ve always had an interest in punk, scene and emo styles hairstyles. So with the men’s industry moving on to more vintage styles and women becoming more daring with their hair it was just a natural progression for me. But yes, I did advertise too. I threw up one great before and after image on social media and then the next day - boom! There was instant demand. You often see barbershops that advertise as a ‘men only’ space, do you think that’s something that’s changing/progressing within the Irish barbering industry? I think that the idea of a ‘men only‘ barbershop is a load of rubbish. I’ve had the pleasure of working alongside some top notch female barbers over the years - they’ve been great for the craic and banter in the shop. Sure look at Linda in the Waldorf who is in my opinion, along with her dad, by far the best old school barber in the country. Hair is hair at the end of the day, if a girl wants a fade or whatever who are we to judge. I think if a man was refused a trim in a salon there would be absolute uproar! When doing a haircut for a female, what inspirations do you apply? Are they the same as those you would apply to men’s cuts, or do you take a totally different approach? The inspirations can be different
as women often tend to model themselves on celebrities. They’re after the head to toe look and they come along with pictures etc. My approach does stay quite similar though. I always try to steer clients in the right direction because what looks great on Ruby Rose might not always look as great in reality. When it comes down to it, it’s certainly in both of your best interests that the client goes out of the door looking their very best - so gentle persuasion works well.
“I always try to steer clients in the right direction because what looks great on Ruby Rose might not always look as great in reality.” What have been the most exciting women’s cuts that you have done lately, and what sort of techniques did you use to achieve them? A lot of women are getting fades and very edgy cuts with lines shaved in. It’s interesting as this would have been unheard of a year of two ago, when they would have just got a scissor trim or a blade #2 at the shortest points, which doesn’t really have the same wow factor. The techniques I used were skinfading and using the cutthroat to define the shaved parting lines.This alongside texturising with the feather razor has allowed me to create some funky tousled looks. There’s an old belief that claims women tend to care more about
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their hair than men do, does this add extra pressure when cutting women’s hair? Or is that theory nonsense in the first place? I definitely don’t believe in that, not these days anyway! I’ve seen girls with hair down to their waist not bat an eyelid as its all cropped up, and then I’ve seen lads almost have a heart attack over an inch after they tell you to take off two or three. But yes, there is a bit more pressure as it’s usually such a huge step for the woman, and if they dont like it your talking years to regrow it, not just weeks! One of my biggest pet hates is when people shave a side undercut way up past the temples or past the back of ear - it looks awful. For the sake of two minutes sectioning the hair properly you can ruin a girls hair for years, all in the space of seconds. In these cases, less is definitely more.
The Crop Shop Barbers Paul Mac Special @PaulMacSpecial @PaulMacSpecial
Are Beards Here to Stay? Mark Sproston aka The Shavedoctor outlines three beard styles Before the Summer, many men decided to shape their beards to suit the warmer weather. While practical, shedding a few pounds around the neckline can also take inches off your overall appearances. The top beard styles this year are sleeker and more refined, making light work of maintenance, but with lots of impact. No one says you have to shave it all off, but these tips will keep you looking your best. If you are coming into the male grooming arena, growing out a beard will depend on your genetics and patience. Don’t be scared to try different styles to get a feel for which works best for your face shape. Just because one beard looks awesome/awful on someone else, do not discard a potential life partner. Your beard is a great way to add something new to your looks, and is the epitome of masculinity.
“The top beard styles this year are sleeker and more refined, making light work of maintenance, but with lots of impact.”
Some men will grow facial hair because it makes them manlier. Sean Connery (as Indiana Jones’ dad), Russell Crowe (Maximus), Tom Selleck (Magnum, P.I.) and Hugh Jackman (Wolverine) spring immediately to mind. Having any sort of facial hair means you’re not a metro man. However you can be very much manly without a beard, moustache or goatee — Daniel Craig (James Bond) is a prime example.
“...over 74% of men aged between 18 and 25 who have the stubble look or beards would clean shave more often if they could avoid the shaving rash.” Interestingly another reason for growing a beard is down to not wanting to shave because of the dreaded shaving rash especially found around the neck area, causing redness and uncomfortable irritation a look and feel most men with this problem are very conscious about.
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Research from the Shavedoctor Company whose founder Mark Sproston aka The Shavedoctor recently launched the innovative Shavedoctor shaving range of products which target specific shaving problems and also teach hair and beauty professionals how to deliver the hot towel wet shave via their shaving school report that over 74% of men aged between 18 and 25 who have the stubble look or beards would clean shave more often if they could avoid the shaving rash. Sproston says “If you want to grow facial hair because you are lazy and it means you don’t have to shave, giving you an extra 15 minutes in bed or perhaps breakfast. Remember: This is not an excuse for being a slob; if you have a beard, you should try to keep it under control, scrubbed or washed regularly and use a beard tonic or shave oil to keep it soft and supple”
The Goatee
The Chin Strap
Beard with Clean Shaved Neck
The Goatee is in demand with clean shaved cheeks and neck. For men with a round shaped face and fuller neck line, shaving the beard onto the jaw line will give you a more defined and slimmer look.
Making a huge comeback is the chin strap so perfect for young men who don’t want to look baby faced after a full clean shave but also don’t want that full blown beard. This style says he takes great pride in himself both personally and professionally.
For those men who can shave without too much irritation and prefer the beard but don’t want the itchy feel of hair around their neck. Just remember to scrub that beard at least once a week as this will keep ingrown hairs and spots at bay.
Prize Giveaway
HOW TO ENTER: 1. Send an email to mary@dublinschoolofbarbering.ie 2. Quote ‘Shave Doctor & barbersandgroomers.ie’ in the subject 3. Leave your name and location in the main body of the email 3.Winner announced 21/09/2015
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Representing Ireland in the OMC European Cup it our business to cater for all age groups, ranging from our very cool young clientele to our even cooler mature clientele. Platinum Barbers cater to regular visits from some of Ireland’s familiar names and faces (ranging from Kodaline to the Dublin GAA Team and international footballers to name but a few).
“We are strong believers in that you are never finished educating yourself, or others.” Without our dedicated and hard working team Kevin and myself would not be where we are today. We as salon owners and managers pride ourselves on encouraging our staff to excel in every way. We focus on each individuals strengths, be it day to day client care or upskilling to competitive editorial work. We are strong believers in that you are never finished educating yourself, or others. When did you start competition work, what drew you to it?
Hi Richie, could you please give us an introduction to your shop, Platinum Barbers?
I started competing in the Irish Hairdressing Championships almost 10 years ago, gradually placing higher almost every year. Like any junior stylist/ barber, I learnt a lot from making and correcting mistakes on the competition floor. This definitely encouranged a growth in my creative talent and drive to compete, and became the benchmark which gave me further confidence to begin entering other annual competitions such as the Loreal Colour Trophy, Peter Mark awards and the Northern Ireland Championships.
Kevin Rownan and myself (Richie Lalor) are the directors of the award winning Platinum Barbers on Swords Main Street. We in Platinum Barbers make
You’re heading to Paris with your team to represent Ireland in the OMC European Cup - what have you had to do to get to this stage? Have
We spoke to Richard Lalor of Platinum Barbers, Swords, about their major upcoming competition.
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you enjoyed the process? Earlier this year the team manager Paul Donnelly (of Alison Paul International Rathfarnam) alongside the Irish Hairdressing Federation and team Ireland founder Meave O’Healy Hearte (owner of MOHH Athlone) chose the line up for barber team Ireland. With an already successful ladies Irish team (currently ranked 3rd in the world ) they felt it was time to reform the Irish barber team.
“This has been a throughly enjoyable experience and has given us a new perspective on areas which would not have necessarily been our focal points before.” The team consists of Platinum Barbers (myself, Kevin Rownan and the newest edition to our team Evan Lynch) and a good friend of ours and owner of The Academy Barber (Celbridge) John Keegan, as well as his creative director Sam Keating . It’s funny how we got picked individually, we have all previously worked together in the past in various jobs and projects and have enjoyed joint sucess in past ventures together. How are you preparing for the final competition? Ever since Paul formed the team a few months ago we have been training in Paul’s salon in Rathfarnem
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and John Keegan’s Academy in Celbridge up to twice a week. Paul has really taken the team out of their comfort zone, pushing our imagination and creativity to a totally different level. This has been a throughly enjoyable experience and has given us a new perspective on areas which would not have necessarily been our focal points before. With this cumulative effort we have increased our knowledge of multiple industries, allowing us to command control of all aspects of what is needed in this business and competition, ranging from Hairdressing, barbering, fashion, and catwalk - right down to makeup! To say this has been a learning curve is an understatement. Are there any other major competitions you have your sights set on? After Paris we hope to take a small bit of time off from our training sessions, allowing us to then focus our full attention, with clear heads and fresh ideas, on competing in the world championships due to be held in Korea in 2016. www.platinumbarbers.ie
Coming to Ireland to Train Fellipe Santiago relocated from Brazil to Ireland earlier this year. Tired with his career in marketing, he had his mind set on making a start in a profession that allowed him greater opportunties for both entrepreneurship and making genuine connections with people. Photography by Marcelo Albuquerque When I drop in to have a chat with Fellipe it’s a typical Wednesday night at the Dublin School of Barbering. Pádraig’s buzzing around the place instructing the various students and clients are lining up patiently for their cuts. Fellipe has two clients waiting especially for him, but he takes a quick break to talk to me about why he decided to make such a drastic career change and how it’s been going for him so far.
it’s also doing really well in Brazil. Then, when I arrived in Ireland and saw all of these great barbershops I knew that barbering was the best choice for me. It just felt like the right industry to get involved with.”
I found three barbering schools in the city centre area. I came in and talked with Pádraig first. After coming in three more times to go over things and make sure everything was right for me, I decided to go ahead with it.
Why did Fellipe decide to take a course with The Dublin School of Barbering? How did he hear about it?
I like the area the school is in, it’s really convenient. I also like Pádraig a lot. He’s very friendly and open minded. I also felt like the school offered a great opportunity to study in a real
“Well, after some intial research
“I worked in marketing and communications for big companies back in Brazil. It was very, very stressful and often quite boring. So, I was doing that for ten years and I started to wonder what I really wanted to do with my life. One thing I realised was that I would very much like to open my own business at some stage, so I started to think about ways in which I could do that. After thinking about it for a while, I started to believe that the beauty industry would be a great thing to get involved in, as
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traditional barbershop, and that was very important to me.”
I then wanted to know what Fellipe was thinking of doing once his time at the school was complete.
“I’ve made the decision not to work so that I can focus fully on studying the craft. I know that this is what I want to do, so I think it’s necessary for me to spend all of my time training. I’ve been here for about three months now and I think I that train for over seven hours a day, both at home and in the shop.
“I’ve made the decision not to work so that I can focus fully on studying the craft. I know that this is what I want to do, so I think it’s necessary for me to spend all of my time training.
How did Fellipe fit training around his daily schedule?
From Monday to Wednesday I come in at 1.30pm and leave at around 9pm. I’m cutting hair the whole time. Then on Thursday on Friday I come in until 7pm.” Was Fellipe surprised with how much his skills had developed in such a short space of time?
“My confidence has grown so much since I began. Confidence is so important with barbering, you just have to have it. In the beginning I was always over thinking things when I was cutting hair, wondering about what could go wrong - so it was very hard. But you overcome that.”
“I finish my course in two weeks. I’m not sure where I will go from there but I hope I find a good opportunity in Dublin. I’d like to upskill further with a shaving course. I’m very interested in beards and moustaches. I’d quite like to focus on them in the future - I think that could be a good niche area to specialise in. As I said earlier, I’d love to open my own shop in the future, but I have a lot to learn first. “
Finally, I was wondering if Fellipe would recommend a career in barbering to people, and if so - to what sort of person?
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“Of course I’d recommend it. Barbering is an amazing area to work in. You can do so many different things and most importantly of all, you get to make people happy. When I was working in marketing I was a very stressed person, but since I’ve started doing this eveything has changed for me. To be a barber you have to be very sociable, and you really have to want to make people happy. If you have these things and you want to take on lots of interesting challenges, I feel it might be the right choice for you.” Fellipe Santiago was in conversation with Mary Fleming. mary@dublinschoolofbarbering.com
So You Want to be a Barber... Liane Murray recently completed a barbering course. Here she
details her tips on what to do once you’ve got your qualification. People choose to become barbers for many different reasons. It could be the lifestyle, the friendly vibe that barber shops are well known for; it could be your passion for hair and style, or the excitement of being part of an industry that’s evolving and growing every day. Whatever your motivation, becoming a barber means acquiring skills and that usually means participating in a course and getting yourself qualified. That sounds simple, right? The big question is, what comes next? Most job vacancy advertisements online for barbering seem to be asking for one, two, even five years’ experience. If you’re like me, this is the situation you’re in right now. Before we even received our certificates in the mail, two of my eight classmates had already been offered work in barber shops in their own neighbourhoods. The rest of us immediately panicked, naturally, and asked for advice from every seasoned barber we met. Most of them had similar guidance, so here is a compiled list of Dos and Don’ts based on their tried wisdom. DO Show your face. Barbering is a very social job, and potential employers want to see that you’ve got the customer service skills just as much (if not more) than the barbering skills. Remember, they are already aware that you’ve just finished your training and that you need to keep working on your cutting skills. This means they’ll be looking for your potential to fit in with the vibe of the shop as well as your ability to greet customers and be sociable. You might be asked to stick around for a couple of hours to show off what you can do. Be confident in your work, many seasoned barbers are surprised when they see what new barbers are capable of! Continue up skilling and mention your extra qualifications. For example, you might already have your First
Aid course done or have taken extra classes for Hot Towel Shaves or Neck and Back Massage, or any Social Media skills that you have learned in a previous job. These can be useful in some shops and might give you an edge over another potential candidate.
experience and may get hired after a certain amount of time, and many of us will work for free in a few different places before getting hired. Keep working on your skills and don’t give up!
“The big question is, what comes next? Most job vacancy advertisements online for barbering seem to be asking for one, two, even five years’ experience.”
Immediately panic and start ringing and emailing every barber shop in the city/county/country. I know this is tempting (Really, I do.) but you want to avoid seeming frantic or over-eager. It’s also challenging for potential employers to get a feel for you as an employee when they haven’t met you. Customer loyalty is so important to the success of a barber shop that managers or shop owners won’t likely give you the time of day if they don’t meet you face to face.
Love what you do. Quite simply, it will show when you talk to potential employers. Be open about your passion for cutting hair. If you’ve taken a course, chances are you already have opinions about different styles, techniques and products. Show that you care about what you do and that you are enthusiastic about learning and continuing to grow as a barber. Be open to guidance. I mean hey, no one knows all the tricks of the trade right off the bat and showing your willingness to learn means that training will go more smoothly. Furthermore, just like every head of hair is different, so is every barber shop so you will learn new things throughout your entire career as a barber. Take advantage of any contacts in the trade you might have. Maybe your friend’s dad is a barber. Maybe your old neighbor owns a shop. Maybe your own barber is looking for help in their shop, or knows someone who does. Don’t be afraid to ask but don’t burn any bridges in the process. Be patient. It might take you a day; it might take you weeks/months to find something in the trade. Many of us will volunteer in a shop for work
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DON’T
Expect immediate results. You might get lucky and happen to come across a shop that needed extra help right away, but chances are you won’t. It’s easy to get frustrated, but patience is a must when starting a new career. Get upset over rejections. There are a lot of barber shops out there, but only a handful will be hiring at any one time. A rejection doesn’t mean that you’re unemployable; it might just mean that they are not looking for anyone at the moment. It might also happen that the shop manager or owner is short with you, or won’t even bother to speak with you. Remember, you might be the fifth barber to have asked for a job that day or you might have walked in right after a busy period, and we all know how hectic that can be. As I am sure all of you are, I am thrilled to be taking on this new career as a barber (and to finally get rid of my pesky desk job!). There is so much to learn, so many different styles to explore and so, so much hair to cut! Remember, even if it takes you a while to find that job, always keep one foot in the door and be ready when that opportunity finally does arise! liane.lebarbier@gmail.com
Maintaining Standards Outside of the Barbershop As a barber you may find yourself in situations where you have to perform to the best of your abilities outside of the traditional barbershop setting. Phil Dalton, also known as The Blackmayne Barber, has the lowdown on how to make the most out of these unique occasions. Working in a good shop will mean you have access to all the facilities you need. Good lighting, running water, an adjustable chair and all your tools have a place to go. But every now and then you might be required to cut outside the shop. Only last week my good friend Rob Flynn (@WolfgangBarber) asked me to help him on a big job - a wedding party at a house. The most important thing the modern tonsorialist needs to cut hair outside of a shop is good lighting. It’s next to impossible to do decent work if you can’t make out the difference between a shadow and a heavy line. The easiest way to overcome this is to cut in daylight. Maybe even working outdoors if possible. If it’s raining or it’s night time you are going to need to learn the difference between white light and yellow light. Basically, white light is what you get from LED lamps and yellow light is from your standard bulb. White light is the closest you will get to natural light and the light source should be placed in a position that will cast the fewest amount of shadows. It might also be worth moving the client regularly to make sure
the work still looks clean from different angles.
clipper it might be worth investing in an extension lead.
Which brings us to the second thing you’ll need. A good chair. Your standard PC chair can be a good bet as long as the back isn’t too high so you can still reach the client. The height pump will definitely make things easier as well. A computer chair is also great as it can be spun round which makes finding good lighting easier. Just because you aren’t in the shop doesn’t mean you should take allowances with the comfort of the client.
Whether it’s a quick chop in your house or a paid job, it’s important for your reputation to expect a high standard of yourself. Taking some time to plan ahead before you start a job at home can make for a happy client. Obviously in an ideal world having a shop to work in is your best bet, but failing that some simple preparation will keep your clippers buzzing!
“It’s next to impossible to do decent work if you can’t make out the difference between a shadow and a heavy line.” Other comforts that the shop offers are warm water and electronic plugs. If you don’t have your own water spray bottle at home it might be worth asking your client to shower before hand and to leave the hair wet. If there is a shortage of easy access to an electricity supply and you have a wired
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#craftnotimage
BlackmayneBarber BlackmayneBarber
THANK YOU Molly O’Neill, Photographer Aaron Keegan, Systemic Hair Academy Thom, The House of Man James Donnelly, Sam’s Barbers All at Barbiere Tola Culliney, T-Fade’s Barbershop David Craig, The Derry Barber Company Ciaran Clarke, Roches Barbershop Frank Hackett, Retro Barbershop and IBA Paul Mac Special, The Crop Shop Mark Sproston, Shave Doctor Fiona, barbersandgroomers.ie Richard Lalor, Platinum Barbershop Felipe Santiago, Dublin School of Barbering Marcelo Albuquerque, Photographer Liane Murray, Trainee Barber Phil Dalton, Blackmayne Barber
The Irish Barbers Journal is brought to you by
The Dublin School of Barbering Fleet Street Temple Bar Dublin 2
Proprietors: Pádraig Carr, Finnegan’s Green Rooster Linda Finnegan, Waldorf Barbershop
We would love to hear from you if you have any content ideas for the next issue. Please forward all correspondence to: mary@dublinschoolofbarbering.com