DAN'S PAPERS, November 14, 2008 Page 31 www.danshamptons.com
Over The Barrel... with Lenn Thompson
A New Yorker Heads to Healdsburg What do you get when you take an experienced wine executive from New York City and drop him into the Russian River Valley with two winemakers who also hail from New York? Apparently you get some delicious and surprisingly elegant wine. Chris Donatiello was that marketing and sales executive for the Charmer Sunbelt group before teaming up with venture capitalist Bill Hambrecht. Together they purchased Belvedere Winery in Healdsburg, CA — a winery that had been making 125,000 cases a year and converted it into C. Donatiello Winery a boutique operation with a stateof-the-art gravity-driven winery that makes around 6,600 cases annually. Winemakers Troy McEnery, a Queens native, and Webster Marquez round out the team. Lucky for me, McEery and Marquez don’t make wines like that. I tasted seven wines, a sauvignon blanc, three chardonnays and three pinot noirs, and not a single one was without merit. C. Donatiello’s 2007 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($24) was fermented in neutral oak and while ripe and fruity — as most California sauvignons seem to be — has just enough acidity for balance. A tropical nose gives way to bright apple flavors
on the palate with lemons, minerals and hints of pineapple and mango. This is a broad, mouth-filling wine, but just the right acid brings balance. Not my favorite style of sauvignon blanc, but well made nonetheless. A 2007 Christie Vineyard Chardonnay ($38) is aged in neutral oak. It’s nutty with roasted apple and subtle spice. On the finish, there is a distinct apple skin note that I really like. Though perhaps not priced for everyday drinking, it would be great to have on a warm summer evening watching the sunset. The winery’s 2006 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($28) was probably my least favorite — and the most similar to that stereotypical “California Chardonnay” we all have in our minds. Aged for nine months in 50% new French oak, there is some roasted apple fruit character here, but flavors of vanilla, spicy oak and brown spice are a bit heavy for my liking. The 2006 Orsi Vineyard Chardonnay ($38) was my favorite and probably the most unique of the whites. The nose was tight at first but bright apple, citrus zest and mineral flavors were nicely paired with light toasty notes, faint butter and just a little spice. The finish was extremely long as well. Moving onto the reds, we started with the 2006
Maddie’s Vineyard Pinot Noir ($61) which spent 10 months in 50% new French oak. A beautiful and even delicate wine at 13.8% ABV, the flavors ranged from dried cranberries to strawberries and briar with wisps of vanilla, herbs and toasted oak. Fruit forward but not over the top, this is a beautiful wine. It was the best pinot I tasted all weekend. C. Donatiello’s 2006 Russian River Pinot Noir ($48) offers a burst of Christmas and baking spice on the nose with dark, ripe cherries, raspberries and vanilla. The most widely distributed of the winery’s pinots, it’s available at several restaurants on Long Island and in Manhattan, including Bobby Van’s, Hearth, Le Cirque, Sparks Steakhouse and Veritas. Last, but certainly not least, we tasted C. Donatiello’s 2006 Floodgate Vineyard Pinot Noire ($57), one that I think needs at least another year to 18 months in bottle. Made with fruit from 36-year old vines, it plusher and fruitier than the others — and yet still taut. With vigorous swirling and an hour or so in my glass, sweet red cherry and cola flavors emerged with vanilla, cedar and lots of structure. I hope to taste this one again in a few years. Visit cdonatiello.com to learn more about the winery and its wines. And if you find yourself in Healdsburg, it’s well worth the visit — even if just for their beautiful aroma gardens alone.
North Fork Events
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 15 EVENTS AT THE CUSTER INSTITUTE- Custer Institute and Observatory, Southold: Saturday, Nov. 15, 9 p.m.-midnight—Leonid Meteor Shower Party; bring blanket or lawn chair. Adults, $5; children, $3; members free. 631765-2626. ONE ACT PLAY - 7:30 p.m.: ‘A Merry Regiment of Women’ one-act play by Rea Shirley, presented by Old Fools Repertory to benefit CAST, at Peconic Landing auditorium, Greenport. Directed by Phyllis Conley. Suggested donation: $10 at door. 631-477-3800.
MARITIME KNITTING - 1-4 p.m.: Maritime Knitting with Christmas-At-Sea at East End Seaport Museum, Greenport. Charity knitting kick-off and welcome by Jeanette Devita and Christine Henson Thorp. Historical lecture and teaching workshop. For all levels; children welcome; free instruction. Free patterns, yarns and needles donated by Cascade Yarns. 631-477-2100, . SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 16 FAMILY ROLLER SKATING - 1-4 p.m.: Family roller skating at American Legion Hall, Greenport; children must have adult accompaniment. Fee, $5 per person; roller skate and roller blade rentals, $2. Concession stand open. 631477-1020, motherme@optonline.net. COMING UP SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 23, GREGORY CHILDREN
TRUST FUND - Fund Raiser to benefit the “Gregory Children Trust Fund” Sunday, November 23 at Lombardi’s On The Sound, Port Jefferson. Time: 1:00 – 5:00 p.m. Hot Buffet & Music by Jeff Camp. Donation: $100 per ticket. 631-473-1440. ONGOING EVENTS FREE ADMISSION AT ATLANTIS MARINE WORLD - FREE ADMISSION Atlantis Marine World Offers Free Admission to Riverhead Residents.In honor of Thanksgiving, Atlantis Marine World Aquarium is offering free admission to Riverhead residents every Friday in November, as well as on Thanksgiving Day.The special nocost admission rate applies to Town of Riverhead residents only, who must show proof of residency upon entry. For more information about the Aquarium, please call 631-208-9200, ext. H2O (426).
A Touchh off Venicee Restaurant
fine water view dining
Fine North Fork Cuisine prepared with Italian soul Water view and patio dining “Along with the local bounty, A Touch of Venice offers white tablecloth dining with views of bobbing boats and spectacular sunsets” Rated - very good - NY times
4 Course Prix Fixe Dinners $27 Everyday Except Saturday Open Wed to Sun from 12 noon * Large Wine list showcasing Long Island and Regional Italian Wine Private Room for your special Occasion
298-5851 1194516
2255 Wickham Avenue, Mattituck touchofvenice.com
1194517
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 14 STEAK AND COMEDY - 6 p.m.: Steak & Comedy Night hosted by Mattituck Hoop Troop at Riverhead Polish Hall. Tickets: $125 per couple; $75 per person. 734-2258, 7345779, 834-8466. VARIETY SHOW IN GREENPORT - 7 p.m.: First ever Variety Show sponsored by Greenport School’s CSEA in auditorium, Front Street. Adults over 18, $8; students/seniors, $5. 631-477-1950. CORNUCOPIA AT MARTHA CLARA - 7 p.m.: Northeast Stage presents Cornucopia: A Taste of Contemporary and Classical Theater, at Martha Clara Vineyards, Riverhead. Music by composer/pianist George Cork Maul. Admission, $25; includes glass of wine and hors d’ oeuvres. Available at door or in advance at Agawam Albertson, Greenport. 631-477-2972. All proceeds benefit Northeast Stage’s annual Shakespeare-in-the-Park. FASHION BOUTQUE SALE - 10 a.m.-3 p.m.: Fashion Boutique sale sponsored by ELIH Auxiliary in conference room, 201 Manor Place, Greenport. 631-477-5164. MARINE MAMMALS TALK- 7:30 p.m.—Marine Mammals of Long Island presentation by Dr. Arthur Kopelman, president and cofounder of Coastal Research and Education Society of Long Island, at Red House Nature Center, Inland County Park, Greenport. Non-members, $5. 631-477-0553.