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food & dining

Page 58 October 18, 2013

danspapers.com

A Tale of Two Salmon By silvia lehrer

Sagaponack and Soho resident, Susan Meisel wears many hats. She’s a food photographer, caterer and real estate broker who plays tennis, loves walking on the beach—and give her a reason to have a party—she will cook up a storm. And cook up a storm she did one recent Friday evening for a dinner she and her husband, Louis, gave for guests following a magnificent piano recital given by Stephen Lin for the Salon Series at the Parrish Art Museum. Susan and Louis are also a patrons of the arts. On this pleasantly warm October evening guests gathered at an outdoor buffet to choose from no less than 10 platters of deliciousness from grilled rare beef, to rosy pink salmon with heirloom tomatoes, to pasta, to salads, to vegetables—there was something for everyone. Dessert could, hopefully, be another column! I recently revisited roast salmon with Swiss chard from my cookbook, Savoring the Hamptons, and oh, it was so good. Salmon is one of our most popular fish, and did you know that it is our most ancient gourmet food? Its bones have been found in the caves of Old Stone Age man in southern Europe. A graphic tribute by a caveman is a bas-relief sculpted in the floor of the Grotto du Poisson near Les Eyzies, France. By the Middle Ages in Europe, the salmon was not just a source of nourishment but a spectacular display at banquet tables. This is how I viewed Susan’s whole baked salmon filet, striking with its topping of halved slices of sweet yellow heirloom tomatoes—perfect

SUSAN MEISEL’S FOIL WRAPPED SALMON WITH SOY, LEMON AND HONEY Easy to prepare with the simplest ingredients and delicious to eat. The recipe is mistake-free and works for any size salmon.—S.M. Serves 4 to 6

*Susan refers to Jane’s Krazy Salt as a “miracle product.” It can be found in the spice section of most supermarkets.

1 1/2 to 2 1/2 skinless salmon filets Heavy duty aluminum foil Jane’s Krazy Mixed-Up Salt* 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 to 3 teaspoons honey 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon sugar in the raw Yellow heirloom tomatoes, sliced and halved, if available Or serve with tzatziki (Greek yogurt-cucumber sauce), if desired Preheat oven to 400°F 1. Wash the salmon and pat dry with paper towel. Place a sheet of foil on your counter, large enough to cover the entire filet over the top and sides. Sprinkle the filet with the salt on both sides.

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2. In a bowl measure the soy, honey and lemon juice and stir to mix. Pour half the mixture on the sheet of foil and place the filet over the liquid. Pour remaining liquid over the top and sprinkle length of filet with the sugar in the raw. Enclose the salmon in the foil and tightly wrap. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes. 3. To serve, open the foil along the top and place sliced tomato halves, next to one another, over the filet. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Note: I prepared a 1-pound piece of salmon to test the recipe. It worked like a charm and I had delicious leftovers the next day. —S.L. ROAST SALMON FILLET WITH SWISS CHARD* To heighten the mild flavor of salmon, top it with a savory seasoned crust, bake, and serve on a bed of Swiss chard—an agreeable accompaniment. Yield: 6 servings 1 large bunch Swiss chard (about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds) 2 to 2 1/2 pounds center-cut skinless salmon fillet, preferably king salmon 1 large shallot, finely minced 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger 1 heaping tablespoon whole-grain Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves 1 to 2 teaspoons kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste

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for a crowd—or for two. For my roast salmon with Swiss chard, the individual are topped with grated ginger and shallot, Dijon mustard and seasonings—then roasted and served with farm fresh Swiss chard sauté. Perfect for dinner from 4 to 6 servings. There are several distinct species of salmon and when possible I prefer to work with naturally raised king salmon.

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