Dan's Papers Sept. 12, 2008

Page 53

DAN'S PAPERS, September 12, 2008 Page 52 www.danshamptons.com

Dan’s North Fork

Cimino’s Ristorante 62375 Main Road, Southold, 631-765-5700

Photo by Roy Bradbrook

Doug Cress and his partners have created a restaurant with a very cozy, warm and Italian look. The tiled floor dining room has brick walls and lots of wood and the tables are immaculately laid with crisp linens. If you want to, you can eat outside when the weather allows, and at the back of the restaurant they have a very interesting set of romantic, semi-private dining cabanas which have become very popular. The restaurant, which is situated right on the main road to Greenport just before the Port of Egypt marina, has greatly benefited from the culinary skills of Executive Chef Dominic Rando, who took over the kitchen in February. Dominic has extensive experience in private clubs and restaurants around Long Island and loves to provide good tasting, interesting Italian food. The dinner menu is split between a very varied array of classic and well known Italian dishes with a wide range of pastas such as penne a la vodka, fettuccini alfredo and rigatoni Bolognese with meat dishes that include veal scallopini, chicken marsala and zuppa di pesce. His main

Chowder Pot Pub Boardwalk Bar On the Boardwalk Overlooking the Harbor

Hours Friday 5pm til closing Saturday & Sunday 12 til closing

Daily y Drink k Specials 102 3rd Street, Greenport • 631.477.1345 Next to the Shelter Island Ferry 1195118

delight, though, is to tempt you to select from his very interesting range of what he styles, ‘Innovative Italian Cuisine,’ and with just a brief glance at the selection we were hooked on these. We started with a selection of appetizers. Tonno pesto bruschetta, which came as lightly seared, very fresh tuna over mesclun greens, together with a wonderful tomato bruschetta served with a drizzle of pesto. Lovely fresh deep tastes that really engaged the palate and a dish that is served in a martini glass. Stella reported that her classic straight up martini was very well mixed, was very strong and was a good measure. Both the martinis and the tuna appetizer are highly recommended. Asparagus wrapped in prosciutto and mozzarella, lightly breaded and fried was another winner with a nice variation of textures and tastes. For our pasta course we chose the pappardelle al fungi and were rewarded with a plate of excellent al dente pasta accompanied by one of the most intense earthy mushroom sauces ever, that really evoked memories of the wonderful dishes of Tuscany. This

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really was a pasta lover’s dish to savor, with shaved parmigian and pine nuts. The very good breadbasket came into good play here because this sauce is far too good to leave on a plate. The pear salad with Gorgonzola, candied almonds, tomato and red onion with a sharp raspberry vinaigrette proved the perfect palate cleanser. For our main course we chose tuna in a very different form from our appetizer. Dominic had marinated the tuna in Chianti and the ‘drunken’ tuna was lightly cooked and served with another intense tasting four-cheese risotto and a sun dried tomato vinaigrette. This could well prove to be the restaurant’s signature dish. They have a very good selection of Italian desserts. We really enjoyed the cappuccino truffle, a gelato imported from Italy with an espresso center and rolled in meringue flakes and the espresso was strong and fragrant, The overall food quality was that of a truly high end Italian restaurant with dishes that were honest in their conception and cooked with a lot of flair. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner every day except Monday and will stay this way until at least Columbus Day. They really set out to make this restaurant a place for regular repeat diners and also for people passing by. The lunch menu offers a wide choice of entrees, soup or salad, dessert and coffee for just $17. Tuesday is steak night; Wednesday is pasta night and Thursday you can have a great seafood feast for $24. From the a la carte menu, appetizers range from $10 to $13; pastas from $16 to $21 and main courses from $22 to $30. They have a short wine list with bottles starting at $17 and as you might expect, including a strong Italian selection. With Dominic Rando‘s cooking, Cimino’s is now offering some excellent Italian food at very reasonable prices. This, coupled with the charming ambience should make Cimino’s a restaurant to put on your, ‘must visit’, list. - Roy Bradbrook

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Vote

North Fork

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2008

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