DAN'S PAPERS, April 25, 2008 Page 53 www.danshamptons.com
Silvia Lehrer’s Cooking Column With the change of weather and warmer temperatures heading our way, small fishing boats are moving out to sea within a few miles of shore. Gill-netting, a method of catching fish is employed by fishermen using large nets and setting them in the water. They’re normally left overnight, weighted down with buoys and weights to retrieve the fish in local waters. According to Greg at Cor-J seafood in Hampton Bays we should expect skate and sea bass at East End seafood shops now. Weakfish, I am told, may also find their way into the nets. How fortunate we are to be so close to the source. I love all manner of fish and shellfish. We’ve been eating lots of flounder, fluke and cod. We eat lots of salmon through the year too but in another month or so we will have wild salmon from the Pacific Coast, and that is a whole other story. I’m excited about cooking sea bass, a personal favorite that I look forward to preparing Asian style. Skate is an underappreciated fish, but its delicate white flesh makes a delicious saute in brown butter. It’s only the meaty wings of skate that are marketed. The most important thing with fish is to choose whatever is seasonal and freshest in the market. In this way fish could also prove to be economical, a major concern with fish today. SEA BASS CHINESE STYLE This is a traditional fish preparation in many Chinese home kitchens. Serves 2-3 1 1/2 -2 pound sea bass, gutted and cleaned with head and tail left on Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 6 tablespoons peanut or canola oil One-inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced into
matchsticks 1-2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 scallions, trimmed, rinsed and sliced on the diagonal 1. Have fishmonger clean fish as above. Rinse fish and dry well with paper towels. 2. Pour enough water in a wok or deep skillet with cover to poach the fish. Bring to a boil, put in the fish and reduce heat to a brisk simmer. Cover the wok or skillet with a tight fitting lid. Poach fish for 8-10 minutes. Test with chopstick for doneness. 3. While the fish is poaching, heat oil and ginger to crisp the ginger. Keep warm.
4. When fish is done, carefully remove from wok with a large flat spatula and transfer to a platter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and lace with soy sauce. Pour the sizzling ginger/oil over the fish. Garnish with scallions and serve. BRAISED SKATE WITH MUSHROOMS Have your fishmonger prepare the skate into two filets by removing the blade sandwiched in the wing. The wing is the only edible part of the fish. Serves 2 2 boneless, skinless skate wings, about 1 pound Flour (continued on p. 56)
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