Dan’s Papers April 8, 2011 danshamptons.com Page 44
& SIMPLE ART OF COOKING by Silvia Lehrer
The Atlantic was on one side and the Gulf was the other, yet I felt fish deprived while in South Florida. Red snapper, a fine white-fleshed fish, was abundantly available at a premium price. Tilapia, another local but rather bland fish that varies in quality from fair to good, was available more affordably. And grouper, a member of the sea bass family that is prevalent in Florida waters, was also an option. Yet, I yearned for the many local fish and shellfish choices available to me here on the East End. Upon my return I couldn’t wait to get to one of our local fish vendors where I chose cod, tuna and scallops. A dear friend and colleague, Elizabeth Andoh – an American journalist who lives in Japan and specializes in the culture and cuisine of that country – prepares cod with miso, the fermented soybean paste. (I’ve been in touch since the earthquake and thankfully Elizabeth and her Japanese husband and family are okay, although not without serious ongoing concerns.) Miso, which has hundreds of varieties, is used as
seasoning to make marinades and sauces, and to thicken and season soups. It is most commonly available in two varieties, the white (shiro miso) or red (aka miso). Elizabeth Andoh’s special cod dish below is my tribute to her safety and survival. Shirley King’s sautéed scallop dish is a truly quick and delicious entrée, and fresh tuna salad made from fresh tuna chunks should be on everyone’s what-to-make-for-lunch list. MISO-MARINATED ROASTED COD Elizabeth Andoh’s technique of sandwiching the fish with a double or triple layer of cheesecloth keeps the marinade from direct contact with the fish. The firm white meat of cod is transformed into a uniquely mild yet tangy taste experience. Serves 4 to 6 2 pounds fresh cod in thick filets, skinned Double or triple layers of cheesecloth For the marinade: 1/2 cup white miso (shiro miso) 1 1/2 tablespoon mirin (syrupy rice wine) 1 1/2 tablespoon sake (Japanese rice wine) 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
remaining marinade on top, completely covering the cloth. Cover the dish with clear plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Or, leave at room temperature for two hours before cooking.
1. Cut the fish into four to six portions. 2. Place the marinade ingredients in a bowl and stir to mix to a smooth paste. Spoon half the mixture into a Pyrex or ceramic dish large enough to hold the portioned fish and, with a rubber spatula, spread to coat the bottom of the dish. Lay a double or triple layer of cheesecloth over the marinade and arrange the fish on top of the cheesecloth making certain the fish sits on the cheesecloth. Cover the fish with more cheesecloth and spread the
Preheat oven to 375° F. 3. Discard the cheesecloth and marinade from the top of the fish. (The cod will have taken on a light brownish sheen.) Transfer the pieces to a shallow baking pan, and discard the cheesecloth and marinade from under the fish as well. Bake the fish in the preheated oven for 10 to 12 minutes (continued on page 45)
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