On the open road
The Northern Horizon, May 9, 2014
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Quebec: Riding like a local The thought of riding in Northeastern Quebec can be intimidating for those who do not speak French. The farther away from the larger centers you get, the more the locals speak French only on a day to day basis. As I would find out over the course of the next few days, that communication barrier is greater in our imagination than it is in reality. In Rivière-du-Loup, I took the ferry to Saint-Simeon. The day was glorious, the sunshine felt so good on my face and I was looking so forward to these next few days. I took in the Saint Lawrence Seaway and the vastness of it from the vantage point of the deck of the ferry. I marveled at the breeching Minke whales I saw off in the distance and excitement took hold. Francois was going to meet me at the ferry in Saint-Simeon and ride with me to l’Auberge des falaises in La Malbaie where I was to stay for the evening. In the morning, Francois and I would be riding to an Emu farm where I would be handed off to the Moto Saguenay Riding Club. I was going to be sharing the highway, the attractions, the history and the culture of their little piece of heaven called Saguenay Lac St Jean with local riders for three days. Then I was going to get to spend time with Francois Gariepy of Charlevoix Tourism and take in other aspects of the Charlevoix region that I have not experienced before. 6 days in these two regions, I just knew were not going to be enough! When the ferry docked at St. Simeon I rode off it, looking for Francois. It wasn’t long before I saw him waving and I pulled into the parking area where he was. After hugs and kisses on the cheeks, we jumped on the bikes and headed towards La Malbaie. Just a few moments outside of St. Simeon, we turned left onto a small road that almost looked like a driveway. We followed the curvy little path to the most beautiful boat launch area that has picnic tables and a pier that has been recently upgraded. There is a small Anglican Church not far from the boardwalk area that is
open all year round and the bay is a feeding ground for Beluga and Minke whales. After taking a few moments to admire the waterfalls and the view, we headed to the Boulangerie Pains D’exclamation. Filled with all sorts of baked goods and local delicacies, the smells in this shop were mouthwatering! I enjoyed an espresso and a piece of pie and the fabulous conversation with Francois and his lovely wife, Elizabeth, who joined us. Francois and I rode to L’Auberge des fallaise, my accommodations for the evening. After ensuring I was checked in, Francois headed off to his office to check up on things and I got unpacked and ready for supper. The rooms at L’Auberge des fallaise are comfortable, well appointed and offer magnificent views of La Malbaie. The Cloutier family has operated this property for generations and they take immense pride in their customer service. L’Auberge des fallaise offers a Nordique Spa with the most incredible views to relax by along with the ability to book massages! Their dining room is utterly fantastic, from the view to the menu and service, there is nothing lacking! After a fabulous meal with Francois, David Cloutier, the general manager came over to say hello, we all enjoyed dessert and coffee together. I headed to my room with a smile on my face; my God it was good to be here, to break bread with such wonderful people and let me tell you the food is simply divine! I enjoyed a jet tub and then settled down in the king sized bed for a wonderful and refreshing sleep. I was up nice an early and went to the spa to take in the pools, then headed for the dining room and the magnificent breakfast buffet. I opted for the crepes with real maple syrop and they were perfection! The service at L’Auberge des fallais has been spot on perfect both times I have been here. The staff works so very hard to ensure you feel cared for and looked after and they succeed at it very well indeed! I was packing my bike up as Francois rode up. In no time at all we were on our
way under skies that had become overcast. We were heading to Saint-Urbain and the Emu farm. The ride is only about 40 kilometers long, it takes you through the communities of Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs, Notre-Damedes-Monts, Saint-Hilarion before you arrive in Saint-Urbain. Four riders, four from the Club Moto Saguenay, greeted us and I was introduced to Gilles, Rejean, Denis and Francine. Over the course of the next three days, Gilles, Rejean and Francine would be a very big part of my days. We toured the largest Emu farm in Canada, which proved to be very interesting. With over 400 birds in various stages of growth, the Emu Farm gives you a really good look into the life and cycles of the Emu. Emus are a funny and inquisitive creature but they can also be very dangerous too. Here at the Emu Farm, the birds are raised for meat and cosmetics. In fact, every little bit of the bird that can be used to produce a product is. Not only is the meat served in restaurants regionally, but also it is sold in ready to eat meals and they offer jerky as well. The eggs are turned into magnificent art; the feathers are used in a variety of creations and the prized fat of the bird, that is ideal for so many purposes it is mind blowing, is rendered into cosmetics, skin care products, health products and more! The Emu is the second largest bird in the world and is native to Australia. Emu meat is very lean, 97% fat free and yet, it is very flavorful. I have eaten Emu before but I had no ideas about the healing properties of Emu oil and how it is being used in cosmetics these days. Did you know that you could ingest Emu oil to reduce cholesterol? It also aids in weight loss and can be used as a cough syrup! Emu oil is also used to reduce the pain and irritation of shingles, bedsores, nerve pain, insect bites and more! Emu oil can also reduce swelling and help with arthritis pain. Emu oil is also being offered in cosmetics because of its ability to penetrate the skin. In fact the Emu farm has its very own line
of cosmetics and skin care products. Inside the gift shop, we taste tested some Emu jerky which was mmm, so good and then we got to sample some of the creams, and skin care products. Emu oil is so silky smooth and it glides onto your skin leaving it soft and sore joints feel soothed. I bought some of the oil itself and some lip balm. All of you who ride should consider carrying a small bottle of the emu oil and the lip balm with you – the restorative effects for after burn care, dry and chapped lips and sore muscles and joints truly make this a must have product for riders! The lip balm is going to run you $7.95 and the small bottle of oil will run you $10.99 but both will last you far longer than you can imagine! (http://emeucharlevoix.com) From Saint-Urbain we rode north on #381 towards our lunch destination for the day, Auberge des Battures, La Baie. We stopped at a lookout that gave us the most spectacular view of Lac St. Jean and took in an old roadside church that was used by people traversing this way as a resting point. The church is still used by locals. When we arrived in La Baie, I was given a lesson about the floods that occurred here wiping out the entire town. In July of 1996, a series of flash floods hit the region creating the largest overland flood in the 20th century in Canada. After two weeks of constant rain an immense rainstorm on July 19th where 11 inches of rain fell in just a few hours, triggered the massive flooding. Over 16,000 people were evacuated, 480 homes destroyed, over 1,200 homes were damaged and 10 people were killed. A small white house that stood unharmed while torrents of water flowed around it became the symbol of the flood. It has been preserved as a historical park and museum commemorating the flood, and despite a fire in 2002 remains standing today. At the Auberge des Battures we were joined by Lynne Savoy of L’Association moto-tourisme de Jonquière. The view of the Saguenay Fjord from the dining room is spectacular. The food, the view and the company made this meal an amazing one!
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