The Casual Route Hanson Smith (‘14)
doesn’t spoil it for anyone. Summary Old Stage Road, Colorado Springs, CO Trad Gone Bad, 5.10, 4 pitches, FA by The Old Guard: John Catto, Max Kendall, Pete Gallagher, & Mark Hesse Gear - Double rack of cams- micro to #4 camalot, and one #5 camalot (big pieces really help on P2) - Set of medium to small wires, RPs helpful too - 10-12 draws, 2-4 slings, 1 double sling Descend by continuing up and over the top of Mt. Vigil and down to col just west of the summit. On approach, it is recommended to leave packs at col and descend to base of climb in rock shoes.
The diamond was something I had wanted to climb ever since first coming to Colorado. The year before coming to CC, some friends and I attempted to climb Kiener’s Route in the spring. I remember looking up at the Diamond and feeling in the pit of my stomach how impossible and terrifying the wall was. Fast forward three years— Erik Rieger (‘12) and I are up early getting ready to start hiking. As we looked up the trail it was surreal seeing a sea of headlamps headed toward the Keyhole Route. We arrived at the base of the North Chimney around sunrise. This is when we had an unfortunate lapse in decision-making, electing not to bring a puffy or tag line. From this point on, the belays would be cold and we were committed to the summit. Erik climbed the North Chimney right into the Casual Route via two vegetated pitches—nearly passing the party ahead. I had the pleasure of taking the next lead and linked the second and third pitches, which made for one of the coolest alpine pitches I’ve ever climbed. Erik turned the three dihedral pitches into two and deposited us at the base of the crux pitch. Some climbers call the crux 5.9+ and others call it 5.10a. I call it 5.9 A0. Right as I got to the belay, the weather started deteriorating. Erik hurried up the pitch as graupel rained down on us and our fingers turned into hot dogs. I rushed through an easy traverse pitch that got us to the rappel anchors on Table Ledge. Now that it was snowing, we regretted not bringing the tag line. We soloed upper Kiener’s as the storm brewed. I can’t say this was a pleasant experience. When it comes to soloing I am a big chicken. I spent the tougher portions of the climb protecting myself with a piece clipped to my daisy chain. On the summit, there were high winds but relatively clear skies. We were alone. The smart and prepared climbers had summited earlier or rappelled from Table Ledge. After a quick snack, we started hiking down the Keyhole. Hiking up that morning, I had imagined all the Keyhole climbers as “REI-outfitted yuppies out for a day of summit-bagging.” I was forced to reconsider this stereotype, however, as the Keyhole contained many slippery no-fall sections. We were fortunate enough to meet some of the supposed yuppies camping in the boulder field. After they gave me water, I felt they were
[Photo] Max Kendall on pitch four of Trad Gone Bad. John Catto (‘82) 20
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