PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E
CHOCOLATE AND PASTRY RECIPES FOR ANY SEASON SAVOURY SUGGESTIONS WITH AN ITALIAN TOUCH COFFEE AND CRUNCHY SWEETS TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS
issue fourteen-2009
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
novative
Almonds are in
.
Bring a little crunch, a touch of class and a ton of creativity to every creation. Discover your inspiration in almonds.
The Almond Board of California is a partner of the World Pastry Cup 2009.
NEWS
RECIPES FROM THE ICIF
40 6 AERIAL EASTER
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8 16
SICILIAN DELIGHTS
Professionnel in Paris
The strength, the technique, the accuracy
The right preservation
A fully integrated and traceable production chain
Identità Golose in Milan
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THE ITALIAN RECIPES at the WPTC 2008
Biagio’s Awards Certified quality from Naples
State-of-the-art machines
Turin's Royal kitchens reopened
Ice in Vibo Valentia
Sistema Gelato Italiano
A product of vegetable origin
A single origin chocolate
Gelato in Tavola at Sigep
A complete range for baking and freezing
Chocolate bento
Introducing healthy eating habits
High quality production
Base products for gelato
Editor-in-chief Livia Chiriotti Senior Editor Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti News editors Cristina Quaglia, Milena Novarino and Monica Onnis Assistant editor Chiara Comba Translations Alexander Martin Marketing editor Giuseppe Chiriotti Advertising director Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it Art director Studio Grafico Impagina
FIVE GENERATIONS of the Besuschio name
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Salon du Chocolat
Two elegant shops in Italy
STAFF
38
VEGETABLE chocolate bonbons
TRIS
Team Palermo
A tribute to grand tradition
The International Pâtisserie Grand Prix 2009
VARIATIONS ON A THEME
CRUNCHY SWEETS
Bronze for the Culinary
de la Pâtisserie 2009
Dedicated to the Costiera Amalfitana
MOGADOR
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Ready for the Coupe du Monde
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Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori and printed by Tipografia Giuseppini. Copyright © 2008 by Chiriotti Editori. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house. Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 216 January 2009. PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E
THE CHEF'S MAGIC
CHOCOLATE AND PASTRY RECIPES FOR ANY SEASON SAVOURY SUGGESTIONS WITH AN ITALIAN TOUCH
COFFEE AND CRUNCHY SWEETS
44
TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS
On our cover, Spiral of... (on page 30).
✁ CIOCCOLATERIA
CONFETTERIA
GELATERIA
GASTRONOMIA
1978
Poste Italiane S.p.A. - Spedizione in Abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB To N. 1/2009
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gennaio 2009
Anno XXX11
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
THE PLEASURE OF GETTING INFORMED
CONFEZIONAMENTO
SINCE THE MEETING POINT nº 216
issue fourteen-2009
EDITORI
ENGLISH EDITION
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Aerial Easter In Italy, Easter is a spring festival, eagerly awaited by adults and children alike. Chocolate eggs containing small gifts allude to the ancient meaning of egg as a symbolic image of regeneration. Every year pastry chefs work flat out to meet the demand for chocolate eggs, colomba, and other Easter specialties. Here eggs are pictured against a blue sky, thus recalling the idea of aerial lightness and spring atmospheres. But they also hint at ecology and at the concept of environmental sustainability (the ability of an ecosystem to maintain ecological processes, functions, biodiversity and productivity into the future). These themes are and will be fully developed in ‘Pasticceria Internazionale’ in Italian, from the point of view of sustainable production applied to confectionery art. Shown here are some images of Easter expressed through the ability of five well-known Italian pastry chefs.
Graziano GIOVANNINI
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Luca MANNORI
Franco RIZZATI
Stefano LAGHI
Fabrizio CAMPLONE
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Ready for the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 2009 The 2009 edition of the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie is held during the 14th edition of SIRHA, Salon International de la Restauration de l’Hôtellerie et de l’Alimentation in Lyon (France), from 24 to 28 January 2009. Holland, Brazil, USA, China, Finland, France, Spain, Poland, Morocco, Singapore, and Tunisia compete on day one; South Korea, Belgium, Japan, Malaysia, Lebanon, Russia, Hungary, Taiwan, Argentina, Mexico, and Italy on day two. Yuko Ichikawa is the designated president of the international jury, with Pierre Hermé as honorary president. The Italian team includes Alessandro Dalmasso, Domenico Longo and Giancarlo Cortinovis; Luigi Biasetto stands in as president, with the Italian Club of the Coupe du Monde. The regulations state that each team must present a plated dessert made with national ingredients backed by artistic presentation in chocolate; a fruit gelato entremets with artistic work
The Italian team participating in the 20th Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in Lyons: from left, Alessandro Dalmasso, Domenico Longo and Giancarlo Cortinovis.
in sculpted ice; a chocolate entremets with artistic piece in sugar. Congratulations to MOF Gabriel Paillasson, the founder of the international event, who celebrates the 20th anniversary of the biennal competition (www.cmpatisserie.com).
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A tribute to grand tradition
As a partner of the 2009 World Pastry Cup, the Almond Board of California pays tribute to the grand tradition of classic almond pastry arts still used today to create tomorrow’s on-trend innovations in Lyon, France. It is the first year almonds are featured in the competition: two of the four competition categories – the frozen fruit dessert and the plated chocolate dessert – require the use of California almonds. In celebrating the 20th anniversary of this world-class competition, thirty of the most acclaimed pâtisiers in the world, all previous winners of the competition, gathered to create a recipe that represents the spirit of the contest and includes the latest trends (www.almondsarein.com).
The strength, the technique, the accuracy Thanks to the extensive expertise of the company’s founders, Rollmatic capitalized over 40 years of experience in the confectionery and bakery sectors. Commitment to research and innovation, use of state-of-the-art machinery, top processing techniques, and use of the best components available on the market, have enabled the company to be known worldwide thanks to the high-quality and reliability of its machinery, which are ranked medium-high. The engineering stage relies on advanced 3D design to simulate the process of machines under development, thus providing a solution to possible criticality right from the start of the project. Technology, in-depth knowledge of the process and respect of craftsmanship combine to make Rollmatic machines technologically advanced and respectful of tradition. The idea of the strength of a bull inspires the line of Bull planetary mixes, with their smooth and elegant design. The extensive range of models ranges from capacities varying from 10 to 160 litres, and the tank can be resized in models up to 60 litres. The line of Roll sheeters includes more than 20 models, starting from the simplest right to the most sophisticated and programmable machines. The range of Samurai cutters is named after the historical Japanese warriors and their famous Katana, which embodies power and cutting accuracy. The Samurai cutters are built in full accordance with the European safety norms (www.rollmatic.com).
Two elegant shops in Italy La Buvette in Sora, near Frosinone, is a pastry shop and café of 110 sq meters designed by Costa Group. The confectionery area is furnished with a counter made of cement and iroko wood, with a glass showcase for chocolate bonbons. A big white chandelier dominates this area and the back counter made of grey MD is equipped with lighted shelves. A special peninsula is dedicated to gelato. Gelateria Maccalli The black and white graphics on the walls draw on the image of an old village, the pictures having been taken from a book written by the owner's father about Sora village. The café area is furnished with a big black chandelier and a modern counter with aluminium panels, lighted from the bottom. It is divided into two parts, one with a white Corian top and the other with a glass window. The refreshing area is cosy – the tables have white glass tops, the chairs and sofas are white, light lilac and beige. The dehor is coloured, with white chairs and confortable sofas, surrounded by pink floral graphics. Maccalli’s gelato and confectionery shop in Covo, near Bergamo, modernized his look and expanded his laboratory. Now the shop has 240 seats and includes 6 rooms, each of them differently designed and furnished by Costa Group. The entrance has a wood ceiling with beams, a wooden floor, and automatic doors. It leads to the gelato zone with a choice of 36 flavours. The gelato counter is connected to the bar counter, which has a frontal with brick in melted aluminium; the top counter in white shaped Corian has stools in crumpled sheet aluminium. In the wide cyclamen-coloured room there are white sofas and chandeliers; the Indian room is furnished with a big table in Indian teak, a red chandelier with crystals and a round table, surrounded by dark brown chairs decorated with brilliant stones; the wall is covered with gold leaf. In the tea room there are white chairs, old photographs and a wall made up of washers of wood trunks. This spacious shop has also a dehor, enriched with graphics on the walls (www.costagroup.net). La Buvette.
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A fully integrated and traceable production chain Eurovo has built an organisation that covers all phases of a fully integrated and traceable production chain: from hen husbandry to chicks, from the direct production of feed to the monitoring of the finished product. This is done with the support of high-tech equipment, ensuring on-going quality and very high flexibility. Feed is produced directly by the feed plants of the Eurovo supply chain and is entirely aimed at the nutrition of laying hens bred in different systems (in a cage, on the ground, in the open air and in organic agriculture breeding establishments), according to the market's various demands, to guarantee a daily supply of over 8,000,000 eggs. Quality control meets ISO 9001:2000 and HACCP hygienic-sanitary standards; the Kat, BRC, Kosher, Kashrut and Halal certificate for the production of organic agriculture. The large scale production capacity and the widespread distribution network ensure that orders of everguaranteed, everfresh products are filled within 24 hours. The variety of products, fresh eggs and egg products (refrigerated pasteurized, deep frozen pasteurized, in powder, criofrozen and liotisé) implies constant, daily endeavour by the whole production chain. Eurovo Service's supply range has broadened with the addition of Whole Egg, Egg Yolk and Egg White, obtained through organic agriculture (www.eurovo.com).
i n t ro d u ces its Flex i p a n ® N ew Shapes Ingot with a cavity Small Ingot with a cavity
120 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm Volume 90 ml
100 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm Volume 70 ml
The cutter for Ingot shape Ref. DEC 1148 is available
Oblong Cake
Half-Cylinder
120 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm Volume 100 ml
85 x 17 mm Depth 15 mm Volume 20 ml
Cutter for Mini-Heart shapes Ref. DEC 1136
Savarin Saphir 70 x 70 mm Depth 32 mm Volume 80 ml
The cutter for Saphir shape Ref. DEC 1124 is available
Mini Hearts 41 x 38 mm Depth 16 mm Volume 15 ml
Mini-quenelle 42 x 22 mm Prof. 17 mm Ref. FP 1150
Ref. FP 1136
Silform® Range
Medium Quenelle Ref. FP 1152 GN1/1 67 x 36 mm Prof. 27 mm
Quenelle Ref. FP 1154 GN1/1 84 x 44 mm Prof. 35 mm
Mini-drop 52 x 32 mm Depth 20 mm Volume 18 ml
The Silform® for Bread SF 4394 is part of the Silform® range especially developped for bread loaves for catering. The Silform® Mini Charlotte ref. SF 1071 is part of the Silform® tartlets range. They will allow you to produce perfect tartlets bases. ®
Silform Spoon shape Cutter for Mini-Drop shapes Ref. DEC 1144 Ref. FP 1144
90 x 28 mm Depth 12 mm -600 x 400 mm Ref. SF 1127 36 indents -400 x 300 mm Ref. SF 2127 18 indents An Exoglass® cutter Ref. MA 150214 has been developped to cut your pastry dough to fit perfectly the Spoon shape Ref. SF 1127.
Demarle S.A.S . Parc d’activités des Ansereuilles . 59136 WAVRIN . France . Tel: +33 (0)3 20 58 83 84 . Fax: +33 (0)3 20 58 74 70 E-mail : demarle@demarle.fr - Website: www.demarle.com
MOGADOR Chocolate Sponge tpt invert sugar fresh eggs 0-B flour potato starch cocoa powder 10-12 butter pasteurized egg whites sugar
Neutral icing g g g g g g g g g
300 10 100+100 10 10 20 30 140 20
Begin by beating the tpt with the invert sugar and the first part of the eggs; add the other eggs a little at a time, followed by the other ingredients until you get a soft texture (it takes about ten minutes). Weigh out 600 g of mixture per baking tin and bake on Silpat in a 250°C ventilated oven, valve open, for about nine minutes. Remove from the mould and cool. Keep in the freezer until required.
neutral gelatine for glazing butter water liposoluble colour
g g g g g
120 60 160 100 250
25 500 450 140 30 150 60 1,350
Heat the cream to 80°C and brew the tea in it for about 4 minutes; filter and press down well; blanch the sugar with the egg yolks, add the cream and cook at 85°C. Add the softened gelatine and emulsify the lot; let it cool. Add the mint liqueur and lighten with the medium-thick cream. NUTRITIONAL VALUES FOR 100 g
TPT (Tantum Per Tantum) refers to a mixture of crushed almonds with an equal quantity of caster sugar or saccharose.
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Luca Mannori Pasticceria Mannori, Prato www.mannoriespace.it Photo Bononi
Mogador tea bavaroise g g g g g g g g
g g
Assembly Once the sponge has been prepared, make a chocolate mousse, pour in Flexipan moulds and blast chill. Assemble in reverse order in moulds lined with acetate: on the bottom place the dehydrated mint leaves and pour in the mint bavaroise; add the frozen interior, close with the sponge, level off and make even; blast chill until ready for serving. Remove from the mould and glaze with neutral mint-flavoured gelatine; decorate with mint leaves and personal chocolate stamp.
Boil the syrup and pour over the egg yolks, beating until it gets to 42°C. Melt the chocolate at 45°C, and make a classic emulsion by adding the first part of hot cream to the chocolate; bring it back to 40°C, mix delicately to the whipped mass and lighten with the medium thick cream. Pour immediately.
Mogador tea cream 35% m.g. pasteurized egg yolks sugar gelatine water mint liqueur medium-thick cream
1000
Heat the water, add the sprayed butter and mix with the gelatine. Heat to 38°C, emulsify and add the colour.
Chocolate 70% mousse with syrup syrup 30°Bé pasteurized egg yolks chocolate 70% cream 35% medium-thick cream
g
carbohydrates fats sugars kJ calories
23.82 21.3 0.97 1297.46 306.80
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VEGETABLE
chocolate bonbons Pastry chef Ugo Mignone of Naples presents a series of original bonbon recipes that use greens – aubergines, carrots, courgettes, and dried tomatoes – as distinguishing ingredients, thus creating unusual combinations with chocolate. Their names come from the dialect spoken in Neaples. They are presented by a greengrocer Punchinello made entirely by hand using 20 kg of dark, milk, and white chocolate. Mignone has taken about five months to come up with the finished show piece, working mainly in the evening after long hours in his pastry shop. CORTINA D’AMPEZZO TRENTO UDINE MILANO
VENEZIA
A’ Mulignana Aubergine chocolate bonbon
L’AQUILA
REGGIO BOLOGNA
OMA
SAVIGNO PRATO
RIMINI SENIGALLIA
SANSEPOLCRO
ANCONA
FIRENZE
PERUGIA
BARI
L’AQUILA
NAPOLI SORRENTO
cream invert sugar glucose dark chocolate 70% fried aubergines crushed and toasted cocoa sorbitol
SOTTOMARINA
PIACENZA
GENOVA RAPALLO
CAMPOBASSO
TRIESTE
PADOVA
ABBIATEGRASSO TORINO ASTI PINEROLO COSTIGLIOLE ALBA D’ASTI TORRE PELLICE CUNEO
g g g g g g g
ROMA
MINORI
300 70 30 500 150 20 24
CAMPOBASSO
BARI NAPOLI SORRENTO
POTENZA
MINORI POTENZA
CAGLIARI
CATANZARO
PALERMO CASTELBUONO CATANIA SIRACUSA
CATANZARO
NOTO
Boil the cream and glucose; add the invert sugar and pour over the dark chocolate. Add the aubergines, fried and dried using blotting paper, and finally the toasted cocoa and sorbitol. Pour the mixture into a mould lined with bronze-sprayed dark chocolate. Allow it to crystallize; cover and remove from mould. A’ Pastenaca Carrot chocolate bonbon cream glucose saffron grated carrots invert sugar dark chocolate butter Mycryo cocoa butter
O’ Cucuzziello Courgette chocolate bonbon cream green tea fresh mint leaf glucose steamed courgettes dark chocolate honey butter
g g g g g g g g
600 20 2 40 50 500 40 50
Bring the cream, glucose, green tea, and mint leaf to a boil. Let it stand for 5 minutes. Pass through the sieve and add the honey, butter, and courgettes. Mix and pour over the tempered chocolate. Pour into moulds lined with ruby-red coloured dark chocolate 70%. Allow it to crystallize; cover and remove from mould.
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g g g g g g g
300 40 a.r. 60 40 600 50 20
Bring the cream, glucose, saffron, and grated carrots to a boil. Let it stand for 2 minutes. Add the invert sugar and pour over the pre-crystallized chocolate. Add in the softened butter and the Mycryo. Pour into a mould covered with silver-sprayed milk chocolate.
PULCINELLA Pulcinella, called Punch or Punchinello in English, is a character that originated in the Italian Commedia dell'arte of the 17th century, and became a famous character in Neapolitan puppetry. His main physical characteristic is his extremely long nose, which resembles a beak, and he’s always white dressed and black masked (hence conciliating the opposites of life and death). He has become an archetype of humanity with all its complexities and contradictions.
A’ Pummarola Dried tomato chocolate bonbon raspberry puree saccharose cream honey dark chocolate 70% butter dried tomatoes
g g g g g g g
300 80 150 70 600 50 80
Boil the saccharose and raspberry puree for a few minutes. Bring the cream to a boil. Mix everything together and pour over the finely chopped chocolate. Add the honey, butter and dried tomatoes (chopped). Pour into a round Flexipan mould. Let it harden, then cover with dark chocolate 70%. Ugo Mignone Pasticceria Mignone, Naples
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Dedicated to the Costiera Amalfitana Dolci del Sole is the title of the new book in Italian by pastry chef Salvatore De Riso published for Rizzoli (www.rizzoli.eu): 255 pages with more than 60 recipes, sweet and savoury, that are a declaration of love for Mediterranean ingredients such as citrus fruits, fresh and dried fruits, vegetables, cheeses and olive oils. A real collection of ideas, very well illustrated, which represent the long career of this pastry chef, starting from 1988 with the lemon profiteroles. The book also looks into the history and geographical origins of the De Riso family, thanks also to the many b-w and colored pictures. For more information about the author, www.deriso.it.
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State-of-the-art machines With its latest, state-of-the-art creations TeknoStamap meets the new requests of the market. In all the Autosmart 7000 models the user friendly touch screen with its “smart” software makes programming a snap. It is possible to set 50 working programs and link together several laminating cycles in a sequence. Sequential programming offers the possibility of setting starts, stops, increase and decrease of the roller gap to meet specific needs without manual operation. The new automatic flour duster and the “stress free” dough winder further reduce working time. Starting from medium productions up to industrial needs, these machines are a reliable and effective aid. Autosmart’s special features are: variable speed of the belts from 20 to 120 cm/sec; 8" color touch-screen; dough reeler with stress-free system; flour duster with adjustable flour quantity. Optional accessories include dough width control; cutting device with rollers and variable speed. With its rollers of 123 mm diameter, Autosmart 123 can handle very hard dough and get the thinnest sheets. Auto 123 is available with 700 mm or 800 mm conveyor width, to work larger dough blocks with almost no limits of weight. Its special features are: rollers positioning with vertical drive; lamination rollers 123 mm of diameter; variable speed of the belts from 20 to 120 cm/sec ; color touchscreen 8’’; dough reeler with stress-free system; flour duster with adjustable flour quantity. Optional accessories include dough width control and a cutting device with rollers and variable speed (www.teknostamap.com).
A product of vegetable origin Meant for confectioners and gelato makers, Hoplà Più by Cooperlat is a product of fully vegetable origin, very similar to natural liquid cream. It is available in one-litre packs and suitable for making cakes, gelato cakes and other specialties. It can be used alone as topping and filling or combined with other flavours to obtain mousses, tiramisù, etc. Its final output is high and it can be stored at room temperature for 24 hours. It can also be successfully frozen and thawed and does not contain hydrogenated fats. Hoplà Più can be mixed with flavouring products such as cocoa, vanilla, hazelnut paste, coffee, fruit, eggs, yogurt and liqueurs. It can be frozen as plain cream or combined with fresh cream. Hoplà Più is a low-fat product, which can be used as base for fruit-flavoured gelato. It is also available without sugar and is suitable for both professional and domestic use (www.cooperlat.it).
Chocolate bento
Gelato in Tavola at Sigep This January, the Italian gelato makers union Co.GelFipe and the international gelato and confectionary fair Sigep organize the 4th edition of the international Enzo Vannozzi Trofeo Gelato in Tavola. Cooks and gelato makers from all over the world compete in creating three-course menus that must include something 'hot' combined with a 'gelato'. Argentina, Brazil, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Hungary, and the USA are the nations participating in the competition. The eight competing teams include three members each, in addition to a president with right of vote, who is part of the technical jury presided over by Mauro Petrini. Paolo Marchi, founder of Identità Golose - is president of the five-member press jury (www.gelatointavola.it).
The chocolate makers of La Molina from Quarrata, near Pistoia, have recently launched three small take-away bags similar to the Japanese bento baskets. They are three packets for breakfast, lunch and dinner in a day entirely devoted to chocolate, or for three days with a single chocolate meal for each (www.lamolina.it).
The International Pâtisserie Grand Prix 2009 The International Pâtisserie Grand Prix 2009 will take place in Japan, Tokyo, at Meets Port JCB Hall of Tokyo Dome City, on 14 and 15 March. The contest will involve national teams of three members each, from all over the world. The regulations state that each Galla Volpe Zanin team must develop the theme of Ecology through a sugar and a chocolate showpiece, a plated dessert, an entremets glacé, an entremets, two types of chocolate bonbons, a gâteaux de voyage, five types of petits gâteaux. The winners will be awarded a prize in money (7,500,000 yen), a gold medal and a trophy. The Italian team includes Fabrizio Galla, Gennaro Volpe and Andrea Zanin; Iginio Massari is their trainer.
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Ice carving in Vibo Valentia “Imagine, draw and carve” – this is the slogan of a new school recently opened in Calabria, in the city of Vibo Valentia. Cristal Ice has been founded by Giuseppe Mandaradoni and is intended for professionals wishing to learn the techniques of ice sculpture and carving (www.associazionecristalice.it).
VARIATIONS
ON A THEME SACHERSOUP
butter caster sugar invert sugar egg yolks whole eggs dark chocolate 55% anhydrous butter oil egg whites caster sugar almond powder flour baking powder
g g g g g g g g g g g g
450 200 75 400 250 650 50 500 250 500 250 10
Whisk butter with caster and invert sugar, slowly add the egg yolks and whole eggs. Melt the dark chocolate at 35°C, add the butter
oil and pour into the whisked mixture. Then lighten the mixture by alternately adding the egg whites whisked together with sugar, and the sieved powders. Spread to 1 cm thick, bake at 160°C for approx. 8-12 minutes. Cool in a blast chiller. Cut Sacher biscuit into 1x1 cm cubes, heat a frying pan, melt a knob of butter with some cane sugar, add the Sacher cubes and stir. Use straight away. Soft apricots with vanilla and unpeeled almonds water caster sugar vanilla bean sliced apricots almonds (unpeeled and slightly chopped)
g 600 g 150 no 1 g 1.000 g
175
Bring water with sugar and vanilla bean to a boil and pour over the apricots and almonds. Refrigerate in an airtight container, leave for at least 24 hours before use. Chocolate gelato fresh full-fat milk egg yolks caster sugar dextrose chocolate 64% table salt
L g g g g g
1 60 100 150 400 1
Heat egg yolks with milk. Combine sugar with dextrose and add to the milk. Cook in a microwave oven at 82°-85°C, add diced chocolate and salt. Blend for 5 minutes. Cool in a blast chiller. Place in the ice cream maker, then store at 18°C. Assembly Put the apricots into the stone container, bake at 180°C for approx. 15 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped almonds, then add the hot Sacher cubes. Serve with dark chocolate gelato. Leonardo Di Carlo www.leonardodicarlo.com Photo Giancarlo Bononi
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A SACHERPETIT Sacher biscuit butter chocolate 62% invert sugar egg yolks biscuit sugar cocoa 10-12 egg whites sugar
Dark chocolate ganache 62% g g g g g g g g
375 350 50 180 160 40 270 350
Beat the butter with the melted chocolate to 40°C, the tempered egg yolks and the invert sugar. With a spatula add the sifted powders and beaten egg whites with the sugar. Roll out to 1 cm thickness and bake at 200°C. Remove from the oven, turn over, and cool on a grille. Apricot compote ripe apricots sugar apricot pulp sugar pectin lemon juice gelatine sheets
g g g g g g g
600 300 900 300 15 20 20
Cook the apricots in cubes with the sugar. Mix the sugar, pectin and pulp, and bring to the boil. Add the lemon juice, cooked apricots and softened gelatine. Roll out and blast chill. Chocolate mousse 62% milk chocolate 62% cream
g g g
500 1000 600
milk cream glucose chocolate 62% butter
g g g g g
500 500 300 850 250
Bring to a boil the milk with the cream, add the glucose and pour over the chopped chocolate in the mixer and emulsify with the softened butter. Use or store at 4°C. Assembly and decoration Assemble the sweet in reverse order (in 30x20 cm moulds) on acetate sheets in the following order: dark chocolate ganache, biscuit, mousse, mixture and biscuit, ganache, biscuit. Press and blast chill. Cut into square portions and cover with chocolate icing. Finish with semicandied apricots and small gold chocolate bars. Notes A petit gâteau format for a Viennese sweet that has conquered the entire world. At the moment of tasting it is interesting to discover the alternation of dark chocolate in three consistencies: biscuit, ganache, and mousse. Suggested beverage Calvados, coffee, Port. Nutritional values for 100 g proteins lipids carbohydrates calories
4.9 22.93 69.18 480 Riccardo Magni Photo Mario Spreafico
Bring the milk to 80°C and pour over the chopped chocolate. Emulsify in the mixer. At 34°C stir in the whipped cream and use immediately.
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High quality production
The right preservation
Research and innovation: Roboqbo presents some innovations characterized by a high technological content, directly related to the well known Universal Cutters QBO. It is a unique tool for kneading, emulsifying, mincing, grinding and cooking up to 120 C°. It also makes concentrates, and it enables vacuum sealing and blast chilling, resulting in an infinite number of recipes. Through the QBO line, Roboqbo introduces an innovative software which manages all production phases. It monitors in real time all cooking and cooling diagrams for traceability purposes. The user can watch on the monitor all the data related to production cost and energy consumption for each recipe or process. Moreover, this software transmits data to the technical department for assistance and emergency recovery purposes. Based in Bologna, and on the market for 30 years, Roboqbo is always trying to improve energy savings. Thanks to the new heating technology, the machine achieves the same results with lower energy consumption. Universal Cutters QBO makes recipes of intense fragrance, colours and flavours, developed for very short cooking periods, therefore guaranteeing quality and preservation of organoleptic properties of the ingredients processed. They are available in different bowl capacity and are made of stainless steel AISI 316L, therefore guaranteeing the health of the products processed. Clients are given the additional option of an exclusive 3-year guarantee covering any kind of special assistance (www.roboqbo.com).
Irinox presents the innovative and versatile preservation system Cp Multi, which can be customized according to the type of production, season and individual needs. It can be positive (0°/15°C), for extremely delicate products that are difficult to preserve; negative (0°/-35°), to create a stock with guaranteed temperature stability; chocolate (14/15°C), when production is intense and products must be held at very low humidity levels and a constant temperature. Moreover, Irinox software is customizable on the basis of the required production standards. The air management system and humidity management system make it possible to set and adjust temperature and humidity in the holding cabinet, ensuring maximum uniformity and the right ventilation at any chosen level. It is very important that the holding cabinet is completely bacteria-free and totally healthy, and for this reason Sanigen, a complete air sanitation system, is also included, avoiding the mixing of flavours and keeping the original scents and aromas. Cp Multi ensures considerable energy savings (-30/40%), due to the optimized management of the multi compressors and fans that work alternately to maintain constant temperature. The higher power of compressors makes it possible to recover temperature rapidly every time the door is opened. Irinox new holding cabinets have a solid stainless steel construction, with CE and electrical safety certification to current standards. Numerous technological improvements have been adopted, such as the ergonomic handle, Irinox-made hinges, interior illumination by LED and many other details (www.irinox.com).
Bronze for the Culinary Team Palermo The Culinary Team Palermo of the Associazione Provinciale Cuochi e Pasticcieri won the bronze medal at the Cooking Olympiad of Erfurt, Germany, in which more than one thousand one hundred cooks from fifty-three nations took part. The team from Sicily wanted to pay tribute to dance and to the huge repertory of classical ballet. 'I am satisfied with the result obtained,' says Giuseppe Giuliano, president of the association and team coach, 'especially when you consider the global importance of the Olympiad and how ours was the only team from the province of Palermo to participate in a joint effort with the Unione Regionale Cuochi. My congratulations to the lads for their team effort and commitment’. (www,cuochipalermo.it)
Salon du Chocolat Professionnel in Paris The Salon du Chocolat Professionnel will take place from 14th to the 16th October in Paris, showing the trends in the sector of chocolate packaging, equipment and raw materials. The international show – which will involve processers, manufacturers, distributors and chocolatiers – will take place alongside its sister show, the Salon du Chocolat, i.e. the consumer chocolate show (www.salonduchocolat.fr). Over 100 exhibitors and 11,000 visitors from all over the world will be visiting the event and many events will take place, including seminars and the World Chocolate Masters - World Finals, organized by Barry Callebaut (www.worldchocolatemasters.com), which is the international competition devoted to the creative use of chocolate in all its applications (www.salonduchocolatprofessionnel.com).
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Biagio’s Awards
From left, Gianni Pina (president of AMPI), Biagio Settepani and Iginio Massari.
Biagio Settepani’s Pasticceria Bruno (www.pasticceriabruno.com) in New York was celebrated by the magazine “Modern Baking” as the best 2008 pastry shop in the Usa. Biagio’s story was told in a long article, starting from his arrival in New York from his native Sicily, and casually finding a job in a confectionery shop. Today he runs his successful shops in Greenwich Village, Manhattan, and Staten Island, with his wife Pina and his children Salvatore, Fina and Joseph. He has a long career in the field of international competitions and also teaches in professional schools. In November Settepani came to Italy for the Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani’s annual public meeting. He was awarded a special price for his personal commitment to spreading Italian pastry art abroad. He was made honorary member of AMPI during the official ceremony in Verona.
FIVE GENERATIONS of the Besuschio name
The Pasticceria Besuschio, today headed by Andrea, has been in the centre of Abbiategrasso since 1845. Here past and future are a winning combination ries, represents more than 150 years of family business, founded by Ambrogio Besuschio back in 1845. Today the company is in its fifth generation and is managed by Andrea.
Pasticceria Besuschio in one historical photo of the early 20th century, and the shop front today.
Abbiategrasso is well worth a visit. This small town located between the River Ticino and the Naviglio Grande is just twenty kilometres from Milan; it is a small jewel preserved by time. The old part with its square dating to the Middle Ages, the Castello Visconteo dating to 1200, and the Santa Maria Nuova complex, comprising a church with its beautiful Renaissance four-sided portico and the Convento dell'Annunciata with frescos from the 15th century, are in no way inferior to the monuments found in more famous cities. Another good reason to visit is the Pasticceria Besuschio, not only to taste delicious sweets, the local 'pagnotta di FrĂ a' with yellow flour, honey, and figs, the 'Porfido' plum cake with cocoa seed flour, the aromatic Mitsukami Cake with hazelnut, cardamom and lemon rind infusion with a gianduia stick inside, and other innovative products. In addition to satisfying the palate, the confectioner's is also worth a visit for the snippet of history that its walls contain. The shop, located beneath the porticos of Piazza Marconi in a building dating to the 15th and 16th centu-
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A BUSY WORKSHOP In total there are four workshops. In the first workshop there are refrigerators for storing products, and the blast chiller. Andrea is keen to specify, 'the various product categories, such as creams, doughs, fruit, and chocolate decorations, are kept separate for reasons of hygiene. This more careful organization was introduced by me twenty years ago' . In a second more 'historical' workshop, the doughs are made. This is where the old family oven is located: 'It is more than sixty years old and is built with more than sixty thousand bricks aged in water. It is an immense structure on two levels (you get to the second level with a small ladder) capable of containing a total of 36 70x40 cm plates. It is a static oven that bakes uniformly and is less aggressive than conventional ventilated ovens,' explains the owner. 'It is always turned on at around 150°C, which explains our non-aggressive baking. Over the years the oven has been modified, partly to keep in line with current safety norms. Today it is gas fired, but originally it used wood, then carbon, and later gas oil.' Positioned behind the oven burner is a small dough-rising chamber, with peak areas of 40°C, which makes use of the heat. 'The ideal for decrystallizing chocolate without resorting to tanks or microwaves is to keep spay guns always ready, the same goes for colours and cocoa butter'. The third workshop is for the preparation of gelato bases (next to the shop there is also a gelato parlour, open during summer), doughs, and classical cake assemblies for the refrigerated counter. Chocolate is processed in a separate fourth laboratory.
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO TRENTO UDINE MILANO
VENEZIA
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO TRENTO
TRIESTE
PADOVA
ABBIATEGRASSO TORINO ASTI PINEROLO COSTIGLIOLE ALBA D’ASTI TORRE PELLICE CUNEO
SOTTOMARINA
PIACENZA REGGIO
BOLOGNA
GENOVA RAPALLO
SAVIGNO PRATO
RIMINI SENIGALLIA
SANSEPOLCRO
ANCONA
FIRENZE
PERUGIA
MILANO
VENEZIA
L’AQUILA
PADOVA
ABBIATEGRASSO
ROMA
CAMPOBASSO
BARI
TORINO ASTI ALBA
COSTIGLIOLE D’ASTI
NAPOLI
SOTTOMAR
PIACENZA
SORRENTO
MINORI POTENZA
REGGIO CAGLIARI
CUNEO
CATANZARO
BOLOGNA
GENOVA RAPALLO
SAVIGNO
RIM PALERMO CASTELBUONO CATANIA
PRATO
SANSEPOLCRO
SIRACUSA NOTO
B
A
The San Bernardino roof tile, designed by Besuschio in 1987 to remember the renovation of the old church of Abbiategrasso. Revised jam tart: recomposed shortcrust pastry with gianduia, gianduia mousse with cardamom infusion and apricot jam. Biegrasot: small slabs with gianduia filling, infusion of Jamaica pepper and almond brittle.
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From left, almond mousse with praline cremeux, lemon zest, apricot jam, crunchy pearls and light pistachio cream. Three chocolate mousses with dark gianduia puff pastry. Africa Mia cocoa streuzel. Almond streuzel monoportions with light pistachio mousse.
HATS OFF TO RATIONALITY We asked Andrea how he runs production which, in addition to the sweets on sale in the shop, also caters for weddings (about one a day in peak season), receptions, and events. "First of all, production must be rationalized with well organized spaces. Only in this way you can provide consistent levels of high quality production�. Rationalization becomes even more difficult when you are dealing with fresh products, but the confectioner manages them using identification codes and a FIFO (first in first out) approach. 'Praline making is also demanding from this point of view, bearing in mind that it does not make use of deep-freezing. I have always used the highest quality materials, and the most artisanal, preservative-free products available. This is why in the refrigerators I subdivide the pralines according to their duration, so that I can keep them under more effective control'.
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PRODUCT DIVERSIFICATION Upon returning to the shop we look more carefully at the window display and realise just how diversified production is. But what is even more striking is the equally diversified packaging, which Roberta (Andrea's wife) takes care of. She even came up with the idea for the company logo made with the letters of the Besuschio na-
me. Making innovative packaging, different to what the rest of the market offers, presents difficulties for a small business such as this: "You have to turn to companies that manufacture industrial quantities. If you keep changing the type of packaging, you need a lot of storage space, not to mention the financial outlay'. Rossella Contato
PLUNK PPC – CHOCOLATE PISTACCHIO PASSION Plunk pistachio caster sugar almond flour flour caster sugar yeast pistachio paste butter egg whites
Pistachio passion cremeux g g g g g g g g
200 200 200 20 20 280 200 640
Use a spatula to mix the caster sugar, almond flour, flour, yeast, pistachio paste, and soft butter. Whisk the egg whites and incorporate delicately into the mixture. Pour into buttered moulds sprinkled with flour. Insert the melted ganache from the oven.
passion fruit pulp gelatine pistachio paste 70% passion fruit pulp
g g g g
100 8 700 350
Soften the gelatine in plenty of water. Bring to a boil the 100 g of passion fruit pulp, add in the gelatine and create a first emulsion over the pistachio paste. Heat the remaining 350 g of passion fruit pulp and complete the emulsion without incorporating air. Cover the mixture with film, place in the refrigerator and use the day after. Passion fruit liquid centre chocolate extra noire 53% passion fruit pulp invert sugar corn flour
g g g g
500 500 40 24
Melt the chocolate, add the passion fruit pulp, invert sugar, and corn flour; heat. Pour the mixture on three occasions over the melted chocolate to create an emulsion. Pour into 5 cm diameter moulds and place in the freezer. Pasticceria Besuschio Abbiategrasso, Mi www.pasticceriabesuschio.it Photos Giancarlo Bononi
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Identità Golose in Milan The fifth edition of Identità Golose, the Italian congress of haute cuisine invented by journalist Paolo Marchi, takes place in Milan from the 1 to the 4 February, involving well-known chefs and pastry chefs from all over the world. This year’s issues are summarized by three words: Vegetables (all that comes from vegetable gardens, green fields and the seas); Life (raw and healthy food), 20 Years Old (young chefs). Other themes are: the Great Families, i.e. the handling down of professional talent from generation to generation; Marche and France, the 2009 Italian host region and the world host country; the great pastry chefs and the excellencies of chocolate and desserts (with Valrhona); the world of wine; sapphron; creative cocktails (www.identitagolose.it).
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The Spiced Coffee can be prepared with white chocolate cream, here served in tall coloured glasses, or else with gianduia cream in low glasses. Gianduja (or, more commonly, gianduia) is a chocolate containing about 50% hazelnut paste. It takes its name from Gianduja, a Piedmontese Carnival character. Piedmont is the Italian region where hazelnut confectionery is common. Gianduiotti, a speciality of Turin, are chocolates shaped like an upturned boat made with a mixture of cocoa and hazelnut paste. Zabaglione is an Italian dessert made of egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala wine. It is usually served warm, though it can be served cold, or as a sauce, or even frozen.
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Spiced Coffee espresso coffee white chocolate cream caramel rum and cinnamon zabaglione
cl cl cl cl
3 3 1 3
This preparation is a sort of destructured cocktail made of chocolate cream, zabaglione and espresso coffee, served separately in three small glasses. To obtain 6 cl of chocolate cream, melt 40 g of white chocolate. When melted, add 2 cl of liquid cream and 1 cl of milk; mix and bring to a creamy consistency. Pour into a shot glass, the bottom of which already has 1 cl of liquid caramel. If you wish, the cream can be prepared with gianduia instead of white chocolate, which results in something even more interesting in terms of aroma. For the rum and cinnamon zabaglione, beat an egg yolk with 30 g of sugar in a jug, add the cinnamon powder and bring to a creamy consistency; add 1 cl of dark rum. When your mixture is
creamy, pour it into a small glass and sprinkle with dark cocoa. Prepare an espresso coffee, sweeten with sugar syrup and whisk in the blender with some ice chippings. Pour this also into the small glass. Dessert-version destructured cocktail In addition to serving it cold, following the instructions in the previous recipe, Spiced coffee can also be served hot. For the cream, melt the chocolate and mix it with the other ingredients, as explained above, but pour the hot mixture into a shot glass with caramel on the bottom. For the zabaglione, after having beaten the eggs with the sugar and added the rum, froth it up with the vapour nozzle of the espresso machine and pour it into a shot glass. Finally, prepare the coffee and sweeten it directly in the shot glass (or in a small cup). Roberto Bianchi Thanks go to Rinaldo Merlone, director of the 'A. Prever' institute of Pinerolo, Alexandra Raluca Gadalean and Alberto Ferrero Photos Remo Caffaro
CRUNCHY SWEETS Canestrelli of Torriglia flour butter caster sugar egg yolks whole eggs baking powder aromas, vanilla, salt and lemon
kg kg g no. no. g
2 1.2 800 8 2 20 to taste
Amalgamate the butter and sugar well, add both the egg yolks and whole eggs, making sure they are properly mixed with the butter and sugar; lastly, add in the flour and aromas (it is basically the same as a traditional short pastry). Make canestrelli and half cover them with dark chocolate. CANESTRELLO The canestrello or canestrelletto of Torriglia is a small short-pastry cookie typical of Torriglia, a town in the Genoese hinterland. It has the shape of a six-pointed star, sometimes with a hole in the middle and a dusting of icing sugar. It even has a festival in its honour, held every year in Torriglia, in the Ligurian Apennines, in which all producers from the Consorzio del Canestrelletto take part.
Breakfast cookies short pastry for Canestrelli of Torriglia sour-cherry syrup crushed cocoa beans
kg g g
1 100 200
Add the sour-cherry syrup and crushed cocoa beans to the canestrelli mixture. Amalgamate everything well, and make small batons. Brush the upper part with egg before baking. Cut up the batons and drizzle with chocolate over top.
Crunchy delicacies Zabaglione chantilly cream
Crunchy hazelnut petits gâteaux milk butter glucose Boil for 2–3 minutes and then add caster sugar crushed hazelnut praline
g g g
100 140 100
g g
300 300
Amalgamate well and spread out on baking paper. Bake at 160°180°C until brown. Cool slightly, make squares using a pastry cutter and arrange them on a non-stick surface.
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egg yolks whole egg sugar Beat well and add spoon of flour dry Marsala wine
no. no. g
10 1 250
no. g
1 250
Bring to a boil, mixing well over the heat. Transfer to another pan. Cool and add a little cream.
Wild-berry sauce wild-berry pulp caster sugar glucose
g g g
500 500 80
Bring to a boil for 2–3 minutes. Cool on a steel sheet and keep in the refrigerator. It can also be used for shiny icing. Assembly Prepare dark chocolate bases and place the hazelnut crunch on top, shaped like little baskets.
For the petits gâteaux with zabaglione chantilly cream, on each crunchy base add a small slice of sponge soaked in Maraschino syrup, a drop of pure zabaglione, and finally the zabaglione chantilly cream. Drizzle with pure zabaglione and decorate with chocolate curls and grilles. For the chocolate petits gâteaux, place some chocolate gianduia mousse (100 g of cream for 40 g of gianduia chocolate) on the crunchy base, followed by a hemisphere of white chocolate containing the wild-berry sauce. Decorate with dabs of chocolate. Antonio Le Rose Il Tempio del Cioccolato, Genova Photos Tom Studio
VIVA DOLCE FIFTEEN YEARS OF CERTIFIED QUALITY.
Viva Dolce's products are true to the best of traditions. This together with innovative marketing strategies is the secret of sweet success.
Viva Dolce takes off from Naples, the home of great confectionary. Based in Naples, Salvatore Michele Acquaviva is exporting his artisan spirit all over Italy. He has used passion and charisma to turn a dream into reality. Now his company employs a total of thirty-five workers, beginning with his daughter Maria, in charge of quality, and his son-inlaw Carlo Antonio D'Alessandro, in charge of marketing and sales. Located in San Gennarello di Ottaviano, soon to be flanked by the new establishment, their professional work ethic and constant search for better quality, in addition to control of the entire supply and production process mean Viva Dolce can turn to a select and knowledgeable clientele. From the very beginning, Viva Dolce has been a market leader in quality frozen sweets and snacks. All of its products – from homemade cones to babas, lobster-tail sfogliatellas, rustic delights and croquettes, not to mention the Neapolitan pastiera, sensual sfogliatellas, and classic or innovative offerings – are the result of a painstaking research, selection and application of natural ingredients. First-class materials, strict hygiene/food-safety norms, and a keeping to old artisan recipes give you the most mouth-watering tastes. What makes Viva Dolce unique is the product quality certification reserved for the company's jewel in the crown: the Neapolitan sfogliatella, made exclusively by hand. The recipe gives the most refined palates the fragrance and pleasure of a unique sweet supplied in large or small orders depending on the individual needs of every bar, confectioner's shop, restaurant, or hotel. Precisely because it guards and promotes the confectionary tradition of Naples, Viva Dolce is officially backed by the Associazione Pasticcieri Napoletani, which promotes and protects the art and quality of Neapolitan confectionary the world over. Viva Dolce's good practice extends to other areas also, not only production. Passion, care, and attention to detail – also on a social level – are all part of the company's identity. This social commitment adds a sweet touch to aspects of life that would otherwise be bitter and difficult to bear, as parents of children with Duchenne and Becker Muscular Dystrophy know only too well. In support of their association (Parent Project) and of the scientific research they are involved in, Viva Dolce has invested considerable moral and economic resources. This social awareness, together with the protection of company employees and a respect for all legislative norms, has been recognised at national level with the prestigious ethical work certification SA8000:2001. Also holders of the Quality Control Management Certification (UNI EN ISO 9001:2000 ) and the Environmental Management Certification (ISO 14001:2004), Viva Dolce is the company to turn to if what you are seeking is a feast for the senses. No need to order large quantities then, especially when you consider that quality is a privilege achieved in small steps.
Via Raggi, 20 - 80044 Gennarello di Ottaviano - NA Tel. +39 081 5297891 - Fax +39 081 8284329 www.vivadolce.it
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Certified quality from Naples Viva Dolce of San Gennarello di Ottaviano, near Naples, is a market leader in quality frozen sweets and snacks. All of the products – from homemade cones to babas, lobster-tail sfogliatellas, rustic delights Viva Dolce’s staff and the owners. and croquettes, not to mention the Neapolitan pastiera, sfogliatellas, and classic or innovative offerings – are the result of research, selection and application of natural ingredients. First-class materials, strict hygiene/food-safety norms, and a keeping to old artisan recipes assure the most mouth-watering tastes. Moreover, Viva Dolce acquired Sfogliatella by Viva Dolce the product quality certification for its Neapolitan sfogliatella, made exclusively by hand. The recipe gives the fragrance and pleasure of a special sweet, supplied in large or small orders depending on the individual needs of every bar, confectioner's shop, restaurant, or hotel. Precisely because it guards and promotes the confectionary tradition of Naples, Viva Dolce is officially backed by the Associazione Pasticcieri Napoletani (www.pasticcierinapoletani.it), which promotes and protects the art and quality of Neapolitan confectionary the world over (www.vivadolce.it).
Turin's Royal kitchens reopened The new museum of the historical kitchens of the Palazzo Reale was inaugurated in Turin: fifteen rooms in which visitors can see the kitchens of King Vittorio Emanuele III and Queen Elena, the kitchens of Prince Umberto of Piedmont and of Maria Josè of Belgium, icehouses, pantries, and a large cellar. The careful restoration of the rooms, furniture and kitchen utensils has given a new lease of life to the jobs and venues of the past; we can see the work of cooks, confectioners, kitchen hands and maids, and sommeliers with their work instruments. Two thousand pieces in copper have been catalogued, from the large fish trays to small moulds for sweets and biscuits, not to mention chopping blocks, ovens, and spits, which in this evocative exhibition reveal the secret everyday life of the royal kitchens. In the Apartment of Madama Felicita, various items for the royal tables, breakfast, tea, and chocolate are presented by Consolata Pralormo Design. (www.ambienteto.arti.beniculturali.it/reale.htm).
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Bravo Trittico® Executive is a partner of the “World Pastry Cup 2009”
THE ITALIAN RECIPES
at the WPTC 2008
The Amoretti 2008 World Pastry Team Championship took place in Nashville (Usa) at the end of August, and was won by Team Usa. Runners up were Japan and Switzerland, with Italy in fourth place. For more info, www.pastrychampionship.com Rossano Vinciarelli
Fabrizio Galla
Roberto Rinaldini
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SPIRAL OF... Entremets Almond, Piedmont hazelnut and Pisa pine kernel crunchy butter glucose powder water icing sugar pectin Pisa pine kernel, chopped Piedmont hazelnuts, chopped Bari almonds, chopped
g g g g g g g g
55 30 30 130 2,5 50 50 50
Mix all the ingredients together, spread between two Silpat and cook in the oven for 10 minutes at 180°C.
Lemon-scented raspberry and strawberry gelè 10% sweetened strawberry pulp 10% sweetened raspberry pulp gelatine sheets 125 Bloom white cane sugar inverted sugar grated lemon
g g g g g n.
100 100 3,6 30 10 1
Soak the gelatine; heat the pulps at 35°C and add the sugars. Combine the soaked gelatine and pour 80 g over the exotic cremeux. Exotic fruits cremeux
66% chocolate sponge cake butter fresh egg whites dehidrated egg whites white cane caster sugar caster sugar pasteurized yolks flour starch 66% chocolate
g g g g g g g g g
90 360 7 75 125 200 60 60 180
Melt butter and chocolate together at 45°C. Apart, mix sugar and dehydrated egg whites. Whip the egg whites with the sugar and dehydrated egg whites mixture. Sift the powders together. Add gently the yolks to the egg whites and whip with the egg beater. Take a small amount of it and add to the chocolate and butter mixture to dilute it. Combine the two mixtures and add the sifted flours using the spatula. Spread on a silicon mat in the proper mould. Cook at 170°C for 7 minutes. Vanilla soak white cane sugar water vanilla pod
g g no.
200 200 2
Bring syrup and vanilla pods to the boil. Let it cool and then soak the sponge cake.
10% sweetened passion fruit pulp 10% sweetened coconut pulp 10% sweetened mango pulp Amalfi fresh lemon juice white cane sugar dextrose glucose powder gelatine sheets butter 82% fresh cream 37%
g g g g g g g g g g
150 100 50 35 300 40 20 9 440 160
Cook the fruit pulps, the lemon juice and the powder at 82°C. Let it cool down to 40°C, add the previously melted gelatine sheets in the microwave, and in the cutter combine the butter and the fresh cream. Use 150 grams for cake. Tahiti vanilla cremeux fresh whole milk fresh cream 37% glucose powder inverted sugar white cane sugar pasteurized yolks rice starch gelatine sheets 125 Bloom Tahiti vanilla pod
g g g g g g g g no.
300 450 15 30 90 210 7,5 12 2
Prepare and cook the custard at 86°C; cool in the blast chiller and add the gelatine at 35°C.
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Golden Leaf Chocolate Cremeux Vanilla Cremeux
Vanilla, Caramel and Chocolate Glaze Raspberry and Strawberry gelé Chocolate, Hazelnut and Caramel Mousse Raspberry and Strawberry gelé Exotic fruits cremeux
Chocolate Sponge Cake
Almond, Hazelnut and Pine Kernel Crunchy
66% chocolate, Piedmont hazelnut and caramel mousse chocolate cremeux vanilla cremeux caramel panna cotta whipped cream
66% chocolate cremeux custard 66% chocolate
g g
300 300
Lightly melt the chocolate in the microwave and emulsify with the custard; pour it immediately in the proper mould.
g g g g g
Vanilla, chocolate and caramel glaze fresh cream 35% cane sugar glucose 43 DE gelatine salt Bourbon vanilla pod milk chocolate
250 110 100 60 5
Cook all the ingredients at 82°C, then cool quickly in the blast chiller. Hazelnut and caramel panna cotta fresh cream 35% butterfat glucose white cane sugar gelatine Piedmont hazelnut paste
g g g g g
500 50 250 14 220
Prepare a dry caramel, de-cook with cream and glucose, add the gelatine and let it cool down to 35°C, combining the hazelnut at 60°C.
150 150 500 150
Mix the two cremeux with the panna cotta at 35°C and lighten with whipped cream.
Custard fresh cream 35% fresh milk pasteurized yolks white cane sugar maize starch
g g g g
g g g g g no. g
600 525 405 30 2 3 150
Dry-caramelize the sugar and heat cream, cocoa, glucose and vanilla together. Slowly pour the liquid mixture over the caramel and bring to the boil for a few minutes. Add the gelatine and emulsify to the chocolate with a dipping blender. Assembly This entremets is assembled in reverse order in a suitable silicon mould. Place 150 g of vanilla cremeux, then insert the first inner part composed of chocolate sponge cake, exotic cremeux and red fruits pulp. Then add the other 150 g of vanilla cremeux and close with the inner part made of chocolate, hazelnut and caramel mousse, chocolate Sponge cake and crunchy. Put in the blast chiller at -30°C, pull the dessert off the mould with the chocolate cremeux on top. Add the vanilla, caramel and chocolate glaze. Place the chocolate and Isomalt decor in the centre of the dessert.
RING OF MYSTERY Entremet glacé Madagascar vanilla perfumed semifreddo
Lemon and hazelnut bacio di dama butter cane sugar hazelnut flour flour fine pink salt grated lemon
g g g g g g
50 50 60 50 1 10
Knead in a mixer all the ingredients; when they are well mixed, place the mixture between two thin Silpats, and bake in the oven at 160°C for 14 minutes. After baking, paint with cocoa butter.
pasteurized eggs yolks sugar water dextrose mascarpone cheese fresh cream 35% butterfat Madagascar vanilla pod vanilla distillate
g g g g g g no. g
150 300 70 40 370 370 1 11.5
Whip together mascarpone cheese, cream, vanilla pod inside, and when the whipping is almost finished, add the vanilla distillate. Bring the two mixtures carefully together.
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Bring the liquids to 55°C and add the powder previously mixed together. Bring the mixture to 62°C, add in the fruit pulp and cook at 82°C. Chocolate spray mixture Madagascar vanilla perfumed semifreddo Raspberry and strawberry coulis Piedmont hazelnut gelato Chocolate ganache Mandarin sorbet
Orange glaze
Lemon and hazelnut bacio di dama
Raspberry and strawberry coulis 10% sweetened strawberry pulp 10% sweetened raspberry pulp inverted sugar saccharose dextrose Kirsch 45% vol. pectin
g g g g g g g
150 150 70 50 10 30 5
Mix saccharose, pectin, dextrose, inverted sugar and a bit of strawberry pulp together; heat in the microwave, add the remaining strawberry pulp, and at 25°C, pour the kirsch. Use it to glaze at 18°C. Hazelnut gelato whole fresh milk fresh cream 35% dextrose white cane caster sugar dehydrated glucose skimmed milk powder neutral stabilizer hazelnut puree
g g g g g g g g
1,200 270 55 260 52 98 12 300
Bring the liquids to 55°C and add the powder, previously mixed together. Bring the mixture to 62°C, add in the fruit pulp and cook at 82°C. Mandarin sorbet 10% sweetened mandarin pulp dextrose white cane caster sugar dehydrated glucose fruit neutral stabilizer water
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g g g g g g
1,000 25 135 55 5 115
Chocolate ganache white cane sugar dextrose water inverted sugar gelatine sheets 125 Bloom cocoa
g g g g g g
40 40 300 200 10 30
Heat water and inverted sugar at 60°C; combine the sugars and the cocoa and cook until the temperature of 102°C is reached. Add the gelatine and cool down to 25°C. Pour into mould. Chocolate spray mixture milk chocolate dark chocolate cocoa butter liposoluble red colour
g g g g
200 50 150 20
Mix colouring with cocoa butter, previously melted at 45°C: filter and mix with the two chocolates.
orange colour orange essential oil
Neutral glaze white cane sugar pectin water glucose 38 DE white cane sugar
g g g g g
100 15 600 300 900
Orange glaze g g g
2 1
Bring gelatine with orange pulp together and cook at 66°Brix. Add the gelatine and the essential oil.
Mix 100 g of sugar with the pectin and pour it on the hot water at 55°C. Bring to the boil. Pour the glucose and the remaining sugar and cook again at 95°C.
neutral glaze orange pulp gelatine sheets 125 Bloom
g g
500 300 10
Assembly Prepare the first inner part with the vanilla semifreddo and the red fruit coulis and put in the blast chiller at -25°C. Prepare the second inner part with the chocolate ganache and the mandarin sorbet and put in the blast chiller at 25°C. Lastly fill the silicone mould with the hazelnut gelato and insert in the order the two inner parts. Close with the lemon and hazelnut bacio di dama. Spray the chocolate mixture in the inner part of the sweet and glaze the outer part with the orange glaze. Garnish with a sugar “dome” and a sugar stylized butterfly.
Imagination box Plated dessert
Blueberry and raspberry salad in vanilla infusion
cocoa butter fresh cream 35% Tonka bean
Mint coulis
Hot apple cider
Tonka beans panna cotta
Iced infusion of orange
Lemon-scented red fruit air
g g g
20 200 0.35
Heat up the milk with the Tonka bean and glucose. At 65°C add the gelatine and emulsify slowly with the chocolate and the cocoa butter. Slowly pour the cream and carry on emulsifying. Divide into portions.
Gold leaf Isomalt decor
Chocolate powder
Lemon-scented red fruit air
Imagination dessert with dried ice
Mascarpone foam and vanilla
caster sugar water grated lemon rind strawberry pulp raspberry pulp gelatine
Savoy sponge cake with coffee sauce
Dessert n. 1 Iced infusion of Sicilian orange fresh Sicilian orange juice orange rinds glucose 38 de white cane sugar water
g no. g g g
200 2 45 65 35
mixed apple pulp liquid sugar
g g
300 20
Heat up the pulp with the sugar at 45°C. Filter and serve over the frozen infusion. Dessert n. 2 Tonka bean panna cotta fresh whole milk glucose 38 DE gelatine sheets 125 Bloom white chocolate
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g g g g
100 10 4 100
69 81 0.4 65 45 6
Bring the syrup with the lemon rind to the boil, blast chill and add the pulps and gelatine. Once cold whip and pour in small glasses. Raspberry and blueberry salad in vanilla infusion raspberries black blueberries water white cane sugar vanilla pod
Bring the water with the orange rinds and the sugar to boiling point, let it cool then add the orange juice. Pour into the small glasses and freeze. Hot apple cider
g g g g g g
g g g g no.
100 100 100 120 1
Bring the syrup with vanilla to the boil, blast chill and, once cold, pour on the fruits. Keep in the fridge at 4°C. Mint coulis glucose water fresh mint green food colouring
g g g g
100 50 15 2
Prepare an infusion with the fresh mint and water. When still boiling, add the glucose and cook until 63°Brix. When cold, add the colouring.
Assembly Pour the red fruit air into the small glass, freeze in the blast chiller, then pour over the panna cotta. Finish with the red fruit salad and mint coulis. Dessert n. 3 Savoy sponge cake egg whites sugar flour starch egg yolks
g g g g g
250 250 200 50 170
Whip the egg whites at 20째C while slowly adding the sugar. When the whites are done, slowly add the yolks. Sift the flours and add them to the mixture manually using a spatula. Lay the mixture in a baking-tin and bake in the oven at 180째C for 12 minutes. Mascarpone foam and bourbon vanilla mascarpone cheese fresh cream 35% butterfat pasteurized egg yolks white cane sugar fresh whole milk gelatine Bourbon vanilla pod
g g g g g g n.
200 50 100 95 140 8 1/2
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Prepare a custard and cook at 82째C. Add the gelatine and let it cool at 35째C. Add the mascarpone and the whipped cream mixed together with the vanilla. Coffee sauce espresso coffee white cane sugar
g g
200 70
Prepare the coffee with the machine, add the sugar and pour while hot on the chocolate sponge cake. Assembly Pour in the small glasses by alternating a layer of foam with one of coffee-soaked savoy sponge cake.
From left, Iginio Massari, Gino Fabbri, Rossano Vinciarelli, Biagio Settepani, Fabrizio Galla and, in front, Roberto Rinaldini.
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it Boulangerie Piacenza
we w ew willlll b be e p pr resen e t aat: t: present
SIGEP ni Rimini 2 09 Rimini ja uary 2009, 17- 21 january 015 tand 015) (Pad (Pad A3 Stand
PIANETA PIA ANET TA A BIRRA BIRRA 14-17 february fe uarry r 2009, 2 09, Rimini Rimin Rim ni (Pad (P ad A3 Stand tand 135)
shop fitting
ATO GEL
SICILIAN DELIGHTS Terra mia Strawberry gelato sugar dextrose glucose syrup neutral water strawberries small strawberries orange juice
g g g g g g g g
320 90 100 15 550 900 350 30
Mix all the ingredients except fruits and cook at 80째C in the pasteurizer. Cool and add fruits. Mix and thicken. Orange gelato Prepare a base syrup with sugar dextrose glucose syrup neutral emulsifying agent vegetable fat water
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g g g g g g g
450 30 65 6 3 50 400
Cook the ingredients at 80째C in the pasteurizer and cool. Add the syrup orange juice g 800 g 30 lemon juice water g 120 Thicken. Assembly On a layer of traditional sponge soaked in orange liqueur, spread out a layer of strawberry gelato followed by an equal layer of orange gelato. Chill. Remove the cake and cover with orange-flavoured neutral gelatin. Santi Palazzolo Cinisi, Palermo www.pasticceriapalazzolo.com Photo Salvatore Farina
COURGETTE DELIGHT Rice and courgette pie soft flour very fine sugar butter eggs baking ammonia
g g g no. g
200 70 70 1 3.5
Mix the powders in a mixing bowl; separately soften the butter and beat the eggs. Add the butter to the powders and begin kneading. Continue to knead adding the egg a little at a time until you get a smooth mixture that is not greasy. If you can, avoid kneading by hand. Cover the dough and let it stand for 20 minutes in the refrigerator. Then make a disc large enough to line an 18 cm mould, 4 mm thick. Hazelnut paste hazelnut kernels caster sugar water
g g g
100 100 40
Knead and work with the roll refiner or cutter. Cover the bottom of the mould with a 2 mm layer of hazelnut paste. Use the blade of a knife on a chopping board to work 250 g of previously drained courgettes candied in honey syrup. Arrange these evenly over the hazelnut paste. For the rice Balilla rice orange flower honey Mielarò Pepe Bianco hazelnut paste unrefined sea salt
g g g g g
200 50 30 80 3
Boil the rice in slightly salted water sweetened with the honey. Drain the rice while still al dente. Add and mix the Mielarò Pepe Bianco and the hazelnut paste. When warm, place inside the baking dish on top of the candied courgettes. Level off with a spatula and place in a 230°C oven for 25-30 minutes. Cool in a blast chiller and remove from the tin with the help of a grill just as soon as the rice has become compact. Prior to serving, decorate the surface of the rice with 15 g of Mielarò Pepe Bianco, making a central rosette with the courgette slices. Corrado Assenza Caffè Sicilia, Noto Photo Farina
Balilla Rice comes through selection from the first variety of rice historically grown in Italy, which was the sole variety until a century ago. The grains are round and small, and they show a high absorption and “growing” power during the cooking process. It’s the best variety for the making of rice sweets, soups and other gastronomic specialties, such as Sicilian arancini, flans, croquettes, etc.
MIELARÒ PEPE BIANCO belongs to the Mielarò range, a line of flavoured preparations made with honey, invented by Corrado Assenza himself, which are sold in small jars and transparent phials. Among the available tastes there are orange, lemon, tangerine, bergamot, white pepper, cinnamon, ginger, saffron, red pepper, cocoa bean, and also the unusual tobacco.
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Short pastry
Sistema Gelato Italiano A new group trademark – Sistema Gelato Italiano – proposed by the Italian association of gelato making machine manufacturers (Acomag), aims to promote the export of Italian goods, services and knowhow related to the world of gelato. The group trademark can be used by all Italian companies with at least five years' experience. Seven sectors have been shortlisted to be part of the system: Italian gelato makers' associations (including professional Italian associations abroad); ingredients and compound ingredients (raw materials and AIIPA); equipment, furniture and machines (Acomag); accessories and packaging; sector trade fairs; sector press; training, consultancy and communication (www.acomag.it).
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CU IS
INE
Recipes from the ICIF Potato gnocchi with a rabbit ragout Serves 4 potatoes rabbit legs flour DOP Grana Padano cheese red wine onion carrot celery stalk bay-leaf thyme marjoram Stock liqueur nutmeg extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper
g g g g cl g g g no. no. no.
400 200 80 140 5 20 15 15 1 1 sprig 1 sprig to taste to taste to taste to taste
Cook the potatoes in plenty of salted water, strain, peel and mash them on a wooden board. Add the flour, 70 g of grated Grana Padano cheese, salt, and nutmeg and knead gently. Roll small amounts of dough on the board into small salami, cut them into 2 cm long pieces, and stripe them rolling them on a fork and pressing with your thumb. Mince the rabbit meat. Sweat the vegetables and torn herbs in a casserole with oil, add the rabbit meat and let it brown, deglaze with red wine, add some Stock and cook on a low heat. Arrange 40 g of Grana Padano cheese into small heaps on a Silpat mat, bake in the microwave for 25 seconds and shape into cones. Blanch the gnocchi in salted water and sautĂŠ in a pan with the ragout. Place them in the cheese cones, garnish with thyme and grated Grana Padano cheese.
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A dynamic, flexible and technologically advanced company Tekno Stamap in cooperation with major companies worldwide is developing a wide range ge of new products. It is now present , directly or indirectly, in all Countries of the world rs, machines Tekno Stamap production range includes manual and automatic sheeters, planetary mixers, for croissant making, lines for puff pastry and laminated dough ideal for both small bakers’ and confectioners’ as well as for medium-size factories
Tekno Stamap srl Web Site: www.teknostamap.com E-mail: sales@teknostamap.com via Vittorio Veneto, 141 - 36040 Grisignano di Zocco (VI) - Italy - Phone +39 0444 - 414 731/5 - Fax: +39 0444 414 4 719
COLD ZABAGLIONE WITH PASSITO WINE Serves 4 egg yolks sugar Moscato Passito wine dried amaretti cookies fresh cream gelatine mint dark chocolate
g g cl g g g
90 25 56 125 250 17 to taste to taste
Add the yolks to the sugar and 25 cl of Moscato Passito, put in a bain-marie and whisk.
Take off the heat, add 5 g of gelatine, previously softened, and the crumbled amaretti cookies. Let it cool. Fold in the whisked cream, pour the mix into cylindrical moulds and let it set in the fridge for 3 hours. Boil 10 cl of wine, let it reduce by 50%, add 2 g of softened gelatine. Bring the remaining Moscato Passito to a boil, add 10 g of gelatine, let it set and cut into diamond shapes. Melt half the chocolate, add the remaining half and work with a wooden spoon at 32°C; pour into a parchment cone and decorate. Remove the semifreddo from the mould, place it in a plate, garnish with chocolate grids, coat with the Moscato Passito reduction and garnish with gelatine and mint leaves. ICIF Costigliole d’Asti www.icif.com Photos Marco Beltramo ICIF
Italian amaretti are small, crunchy, chewy-inside, macaroon-like cookies made with almond flour, egg whites, and sugar.
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THE GELATO AND PASTRY MACHINE
The machine to launch a new season in your gelato shop
To learn more about please contact your local distributor. carpigiani.com
CU IS
INE
The chef's magic
With the first Michelin star, the publication of the book 'Mise en place', and the convocation of Identità Golose, Stefano Baiocco takes his place in the firmament of great stars
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Stefano Baiocco and Villa Feltrinelli: he the young, passionate and determined chef; she the majestic, proud and matronly villa of Gargnano, on the Lago di Garda. An alliance of innovation and tradition each making a statement of its own. In this setting, the cuisine of thirty-year-old Baiocco from the Marche is exalted as is this almost fairy-tale location. Given his work with big names on the international stage – Ducasse, Roca, Adrià, Gagnaire, Barbot, and Aduriz – Baiocco was appointed executive chef of the Grand Hotel Villa Feltrinelli in 2004. This valuable experience underlined his qualities: precision, professionalism, discipline, modesty, tenacity, and leadership; it also led to his being awarded the first Michelin star. This important recognition is the fruit of a unique talent, which translates into elegant, clean and almost sensual cooking. Baiocco's dishes are a balance of taste, colour and aromas dictated by his perfectionism and an innate aesthetic awareness. His care and passion for officinal herbs, which he grows in a small dedicated garden, set him apart from the rest with light and wellbalanced works. I met Stefano at Identità Golose (www.identitagolose.it). He is like his cooking: fresh, spontaneous, and mysterious.
There is a lot of talk about exploring flavours. Are there new flavours to experiment with? Exploration is fundamental if you want to avoid the risk of fossilizing the palate. We have a duty to keep curiosity alive by travelling and discovering new aromas and flavours. Yet we should never go over the top because I don't like any form of extreme. What is important is the memory one has of a flavour. So yes to experimentation and the search for new sensations, only without forgetting our roots and the flavours that have characterised our cuisine for centuries.
Tradition or creativity? Some claim there are two forms of cuisine: one scientist, the other traditional. Which do you side with? I'm in the middle. I'm not avoiding the question; it's simply a coherent and conscious statement about the work I do and the place I do it in. It is also a way to keep up to date and never miss the starting gun.
How important is your Michelin star? When the Guide came out all hell broke loose: telephone calls, messages, emails, faxes, all offering their congratulations (some more sincere than others). The star for me makes me feel very proud and satisfied. People who do not know our world find it difficult to understand its importance. It sets you apart from the rest,
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2007 was crowned with personal success: the Michelin star, the publication of your book, and Identità Golose... The funny thing is that Villa Feltrinelli was in the shadows for years; critics writing for the leading guides had never taken us into consideration. Now, all of a sudden, everyone is knocking on our door. Unfortunately, this happens all too often. I have many colleagues who are reputable professionals and passionate about their work, yet they are ignored by the world that 'counts' which prefers instead to speak about the famous.
although today you need at least two. It is a recognition that places you one step up the ladder of Italian restauration. In addition, for many restaurants, perhaps in the provinces, there is a financial return. I hope the star will bring to Villa Feltrinelli an even more select clientele that will enjoy both the fine food and beauty of this place. Why did you decide to write about your experience and knowledge in a book? I had been considering the idea for some time, but several years passed between thinking about the book and actually writing it. There are so many things to organise: financial support, photography, text proofing and translation, graphic design, and publication. When you consider that all of this is in addition to your everyday work, it is easy to understand just how arduous the task was, albeit satisfying. I tried to come out of my shell with this book. I wanted to make myself known and make people understand the world I live in, my way of thinking and of doing things, without the pretension of teaching anything to anyone. You have worked with leading names on the international stage, and you have just been on a training cour Marbella, at Dani Garcia's Calima. How important is ongoing training? For almost ten years, the world of restauration in general, and cuisine in particular, has been moving forward at great speed, and major changes are evident. I think it is our duty to keep up with training courses, promotions, meetings and anything else that will help us understand the direction we are moving in. Whether you decide to adopt more or less innovative cuisine is a different matter. Knowledge and awareness come first. It is then up to every one of us to decide what is appropriate and what not for the type of restaurant, its location, the type of clientele and the restaurant's philosophy. How do you come up with a menu? Cooking is a means of communication that lets me convey my emotions. A menu reflects what I feel. How important are desserts and small confectionary? They are a key element of a menu and they follow the same logic of the cuisine. I do not believe that the latter prevails over confectionary, or vice versa. Instead, I think they are both essential for making an evening out at the restaurant a unique experience. Everything, of course, is helped by an excellent service. Is the dessert menu created separately to the rest of the menu? Sweet and savoury travel along parallel tracks. A dessert, just like a starter or first course, is changed or modified depending on the season and on the availability of ingredients. It is normal that during the warmer months there are light and fresh dishes, perhaps using the fruit of the season, fresh herbs and citrus fruits; heavier meals are prepared during the winter months. My desserts are never too rich in fatty substances or sugars, which responds to the increasing importance customer's are giving to their looks and health. In your cuisine has sweet contaminated savoury, or vice versa? Is there a point where these two meet, and if yes, what form does this take? There is no real meeting point and I don't even look for one. I prefer to keep the two things separate. As I said earlier, they have to follow the same concept and logical thread. Sometimes, however, there are sweet/savoury influences: chicken liver crème caramel for instance, or the use of ingredients which, although belonging to the savoury world, are used in confectionary – herbs, salt, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil. Such combinations become custo-
Stefano Baiocco
mary in many cuisines, and pass as 'classics'. Sweet, savoury, bitter, acid: which do you prefer and how are they mixed? I prefer not to use the term mix. All of these components play a part in my dishes, yet they remain distinct. It is important that the dish does not have a communion of too many flavours. This is not to say I do not enjoy creating and experimenting with combinations, but just that I am not fond of extreme flavours. I do not like bitter tastes, or those which are too sweet and nauseating. I love acidic and spicy flavours, especially savoury ones. The mere thought of a grain of salt makes my mouth water. What could you not do without in the kitchen? My team. I could do without any other ingredient or utensil and make up for it in some other manner, but the rapport I have with my team comes first. Without them I would not be able to do the same type of cuisine in the manner that I do it. Also, it is thanks to some of them that I am able to develop new ideas. Finally, I like to be able to share our efforts and passions. What importance does dressage and mise en place have in the preparation of a dish? The term 'mise en place' also refers to cleanliness, rigour, professionalism and organisation. These are key elements not so much for the creation of a recipe but more for our work in general. It all begins with the simplest of things: a cook will never be organised if in the morning he leaves home with his wardrobe in a mess, wears a dirty outfit, finds blunt and misaligned knives in the drawer, has his storeroom in a mess and a poorly stacked refrigerator. Do you have any dreams? Yes many, but I prefer to keep them to myself. I am told that if you talk about them they won't come true! Monica Onnis
Villa Feltrinelli on the Lago di Garda.
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Garden dish Traditional grill-browned seasonal greens potato crunch and field herbs Mise en place Potato crunch Seasonal greens Aromatic herbs and salad sprouts Edible flowers
Clean the potatoes and cut them into two parallelepipeds. Slice them finely with the slicer into transparent rectangles; arrange them in a plate with baking paper, making them overlap a little. Garnish with a little olive oil, salt and rosemary needles. Bake at 120°C for about 15 minutes, wrap them around a parallelepiped Molden (steel mould) and let them dry for a few hours. Seasonal greens
Potato crunch 2 large potatoes a few rosemary needles The adjective al dente (literally “to the tooth”) usually refers to Italian pasta and rice, which are cooked until firm but not hard. Al dente also describes vegetables when they are cooked to "tender crisp", still offering resistance to the bite, but cooked through. A battuto is a finely chopped mixture of herbs or other ingredients. It is traditionally made with a mezzaluna (a crescent-shaped knife) and a chopping board, but it can also be obtained using a blender. Kalamata olives are so named after Kalamata in Greece, the city located in the area where they are grown. They are edible black olives with a fruity flavour and they are usually preserved in vinegar and/or olive oil. Maldon salt comes from the UK seas and is appreciated by renowned cooks all over the world. Its particular flaky structure gives a special savoury and crunchy touch to food and it can also be successfully combined with chocolate. It is completely natural and keeps traces of magnesium and calcium.
Cleaned and peeled greens: baby carrot, baby fennel, baby aubergine, courgette, Zatterino tomato, small onion, beetroot, red potato, asparagus, red turnip, lettuce centre, Jerusalem artichoke, snowpea, artichoke, broad beans and peas. Gently brown the greens in a grill with a base of garlic, rosemary, olive oil and pork lard; make sure they gain flavour and take on a nice colour taking care that they remain “al dente” (firm). Aromatic herbs and salad sprouts Sorrel, yarrow, mugwort, Greek basil, red basil, lemon basil, coriander, fennel, courgette flower, hyssop, lovage, marjoram, mallow, lemon-balm, sweet cicely, oregano, red shiso, daikon sprouts, pea sprouts, baby rocket, burnet, Rumex atropurpureum, savory. Edible flowers Garlic, calendula, small onion, elder, rosemary, blue daisy, rocket, sage, daisy, lobelia, periwinkle.
Mise en Place Stefano Baiocco Consorzio Export Zafferano pages 301 € 100,00 www.zafferano.org
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Tuna lightly marinated in sesame, fried pasta cracker and battuto of olives and dried tomatoes Mise en place
Green crackers
Sesame vinaigrette Tuna Battuto Green crackers Tuna marrow Flowers and sprouts
flour semolina parsley-chlorophyll salt eggs
400 200 60 10 3
Knead all the ingredients and let the dough stand for about 2 hours. Roll out the dough thinly and cut out rectangles to fry in the seed oil.
Sesame vinaigrette toasted sesame oil soy sauce ginger oil toasted white sesame seeds
g g g g no.
g g g g
100 180 50 50
Mix the ingredients and store.
Marrow Clean the central spine of the tuna with a sharp knife making sure you keep the marrow inside it intact. Season the marrow with a few grains of Maldon* salt and tuna oil, obtained by means of an infusion of olive oil and tuna bones.
Tuna Flowers and sprouts Finely slice the fresh tuna fillet and marinate for a few minutes in the sesame vinaigrette. Battuto candied tomatoes Kalamata olives* small leaves of lemon thyme
g g
50 50 to taste
Make a battuto* with the three mixtures and place a little over the tuna slices.
daikon sprouts borage sprouts parsley sprouts lobelia and borage flowers Stefano Baiocco executive chef Grand Hotel Villa Feltrinelli, Gargnano, BS www.villafeltrinelli.com Photos Studio Verde
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A single origin chocolate Icam has recently launched the extra dark chocolate Perù, which further extends its Linea Professionale range of single origin chocolate professional products, mainly coming from Ecuador and Madagascar. This chocolate is made of a single origin selected premium cocoa, giving it an excellent quality profile, as well as a unique personality. It comes from the Huancamamba province in the northern region of Piura, in Perù. The direct involvement of Icam qualified staff in the plantation, controlling the best practices of fermentation and drying, has enabled to obtain a product with a high percentage of rare white cocoa, which gives an unmistakeable taste to the finished product. Sampling reveals taste contrasts, sweet yet sharp at the same time, with a final blackcurrant taste. Linea Professionale has been further extended by the introduction of intense milk chocolate 49% and Dominicana dark chocolates (www.icamcioccolato.it).
Introducing healthy eating habits Slow Food embraces the use of wholesome products, a respect for tradition, the promotion of environmentally sustainable methods and the honest enjoyment of food. All over the world, meals, tastings, fairs, festivals, workshops, conferences, visits to local food producers, education initiatives and a host of other events are organized, actively promoting the Slow Food philosophy (good, clean and fair), mainly presented at the Salone del Gusto in Torino. As an example, in Australia Slow Food has successfully involved the gelato maker Luigi De Luca from Leichhardt and other professionals in seminars, and tastings, with the purpose of sharing their expertise on organic traditional honey granita, gelato, ice cream, original Japanese tea, vegetables and more (www.slowfood.com).
Luigi De Luca
Base products for gelato
A complete range for baking and freezing Demarle has developed a hightemperature resistant and non stick material (fibreglass and food grade silicones), which can be used for baking and freezing, or upside down for sugarcraft. New shapes and patterns were launched recently and Relief Pastry mats have also been developed to produce relief biscuit sheets with regular pattern to decorate desserts. Flexipan is a combination of fibreglass and silicones. Being flexible, it can easily bend to turn out the finished product before it returns to its original shape. It is not only a solid and long lasting material, but it also offers non-stick properties and has a much longer life than any traditional non-stick coating. Depending on the product, it can be used up to 3,000 times before the first signs of sticking appear. It is moulded into the desired shape (cones, round and square savarins, hearts, darioles, muffins…) and its solid structure can take dough, as well as creams and liquids. The non-stick properties of Silform are effective in freezing, proving and baking in a variety of shapes for either crusty or soft bread. A four sided Multibake or a four sided perforated tray is an ideal carrier, as solid trays do not transfer heat as efficiently as do perforated. It can be designed for use on automatic lines from -40° to +250°C. Siltray is suitable for proving, part baking and baking in a rack oven. On an automatic line, it will need a different frame; for use in a deck oven, the frame must be made shallower. It can be used between -40° and +280°C and it is supplied with side rods which fix into corner mountings on Demarle frames. Silpat is as effective for baking as it is for freezing patisseries, and can be used from -40° to +250°C. It must be used flat and placed on a tray (preferably perforated) or on a Multibake grille, and no greasing is required as it is nonstick. The smooth side can be used to place upon any product to be baked or frozen, while the reverse side is less smooth and prevents the Silpat from slipping on the tray. Silpain is as effective for freezing dough, baking frozen dough, freezing part baked bread, baking bread of all shapes and sizes in all types of oven, except for direct fired ones, from -40° to +250°C (www.demarle.com).
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Founded in 1940, Stramondo specialised in the preparation of base products for gelato making and cake baking, using genuine raw materials and applying the traditional working techniques of the best Sicilian gelato makers. Based in a traditional fresh/dried fruit production area, Stramondo processes agricultural produce into semi-finished products. The range is wide and includes uncommon products, which require elaborate treatments. When the fresh and dried fruit arrives it is immediately processed in order to mantain the food values in the finished products such as the Torrone, which contains the fragrance, taste and image of Sicily. The company acquired the seal of quality UNI EN ISO 9002 of the Bureau Veritas Quality International Italia Ltd. Tasting was carried out by the control and certification services IMC and AMAB and it obtained the Certificate for Organic Agriculture BIA. The organic line is known world wide thanks to the recognition of Organic Food Awards 2001 and the Certificate of Excellence won in 2001 in Great Britain (www.stramondo.it).
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