Supplemento al n. 252, gennaio 2013 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n째 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 01/2013 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
PA S T RY B A K E RY C O F F E E C U I S I N E
REINVENTING ONESELF FOR A CHANGING WORLD THE AIRBRUSH ART ALCOHOLIC GELATO CITRUS PUFFS THE SAVOURY SIDE CHOCOLATE OYSTERS TECHNOLOGY & PRODUCTS NEWS
issue twenty-two-2013
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.piwwe.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
In this issue Reinventing oneself for a changing world The airbrush art Alcoholic gelato Charlene Citrus puffs The savoury side Buckwheat and gianduja cake Imperial oysters
News Ampi’s meeting and the Italian Pastry Chef of the Year International stages The versatility of copite Spotlights on Lyon Chocolate and hazelnut All in one Italian Cake Art Gardens of delight Square Trays The secrets of chocolate revealed High quality and fresh creams Chocolate according to Eliseo Tonti The new trend in decorations State-of-the-art machines Art&Pastry in Lugano Fiasconaro is growing A Master Degree for Marchesi A new italian member of relais desserts Visiting the Carpigiani Gelato Museum
Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Monica Onnis ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Windsor - Pinerolo MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it ART DIRECTOR Studio Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2013 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 252 - 2013 ON OUR COVER Raspberry granita by Alessandro Racca
Expos and events Cupole: inside and outside! Gulfood witnesses significant 13% growth Dobla for a better world
www.piwwe.com recipes, pictures and interviews, subscribe on line, brouse through the mag, receive newsletters, stay in touch with the pastry and gelato world SUBSCRIBE ON-LINE TO THE WEBZINE
INTERVIEW
Carlo Pozza, owner of the Davenicio pastry shop, even if remaining faithful to tradition, is riding the change and is entering the virtual world, satisfying new trends
REINVENTING ONESELF FOR A CHANGING WORLD Milena Novarino
“It is useful and pleasant to relate to people, so every morning, around six o’clock, I say Good morning to all the sweet-toothed world of Facebook and Twitter, a positive way to start the day”. Who is speaking is Carlo Pozza, successful confectioner from Arzignano, nearVicenza, Italy. It was logical and natural for him to choose this path, in fact he represents the fifth generation of his family, and, together with other colleagues, he is the founder member of Ampi, Accademia Maestri Pasticcieri Italiani (Italian Master Confectioners Academy). “Davenicio” confectioner’s, from its light, elegant and modern tones, continues to be a benchmark for quality and customer satisfaction. The offer on show is the result of a search for taste and a lot of passion, because it is the desire to make people dream that brings Carlo to experiment new channels of offer, following trends. Carlo, how does your day start? The shop opens at seven o’clock and we start with the breakfasts, we have a hot counter with a wide assortment of croissant, doughnuts, tarts... Everything that we produce is left to rise overnight, in this way our produce is always fresh. Our early morning customers are regulars, I know them all, I know what they want and so they don’t even need to order and in this way we exchange news, secrets and jokes. What is your typical customer like? Those who enter the shop, in this rather difficult period, do not come for themselves but to
Carlo Pozza with his children Sofia and Alberto, his wife Alessia and parents Mariella and Venicio.
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2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
La Gata, typical cake from Vicenza (on the left), and Crema Delizia Pasticcerio, on sale with instructions on how to prepare at home a butter cream or chantilly cream or a vanilla sauce.
buy confectionery to give as presents, therefore we also concentrate on elegant and sober packaging. The tray for the fresh pastries is lilac with a silver inside and it is not only perfect for transporting but also for presentation. How do you distinguish your business? Around three years ago, I created the trademark and logo. I have always heard, right from being a child, the sentence “let’s go to Venicio” so, as a tribute to my father, I decided to dedicate the sign to him. As a logo I chose a round symbol which represents an Egyptian votive cake. All the packaging, paper and boxes are personalised. What are your specialities? Among the leavened cakes there is Alby (short for Alberto), a very particular panettone with candied apricot and chocolate drops, which we produce all year round in
750 g packaging. A cake which has been very successful, even winning awards, and there is the Gatò al pistacchio. And there is also the Gata. What is the Gata? Gata (the she-cat, local dialect) is a typical sweet, an expression of the Berici Hills territory and its products of excellence, white flour and Marano yellow corn flour, grappa vicentina, butter, milk and honey, with a pinch of almond and cocoa. It does not contain preservatives, but remains soft and fragrant for 40 days, thanks to the addition of grappa. Its name was chosen because the inhabitants of Vicenza have always been called by the name of magnagati, some say because during a plague they were forced to eat cats. Others because an invasion of mice forced them to let an army of cats loose in the streets of the city. Along with some confectioners who are friends from the Associazione Artigiani Vicentini (Vicentini Artisans Association) we have set up the Consorzio dei Pasticcieri “La Gata” (Association of confectioners “La Gata”), of which I am president. Among our aims are the production, promotion, marketing and
Dark chocolate glasses with mandarin and lime cream, raspberry and mango with ginger. On the right, chocolate puffs.
2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
safeguard of the recipe and packaging of the cake. How do you see the future of the sector? Today we are living in a period in which there are no longer any constants and people spend less, so there is the necessity to always reinvent yourself, without certainties regarding purchases. In order to sell, we try to propose always something new. There is no need to revolutionize but rather to propose following trends. What are your innovative proposals? Together with some friends I have patented and registered the trademark Pasticcerio, a blog dedicated to the sweet-toothed, a virtual place where you can meet not only to learn about products and innovations, but also to experience the world of confectionery art. On the radio programme “Il gastronauta” with the journalist Davide Paolini, I explained how to make cupcakes. It was a great success, so I then held some amateur courses and to help those who wanted to make them at home to impress relatives and friends, I created the cupcake kit which contains the recipe and powder mix, to which only the fresh ingredients need to be added, and all
3
INTERVIEW
the necessary tools, such as paper sweet cases and underplates. Each one contains an ironic saying to amaze one’s friends. So you are following the “do-it-yourself” trend? Yes, there are always more people that want to produce and in this way I get the loyalty of the customers. I have created many different product lines, from chocolate to fruit sauces, from homemade cream decorations prepared with fresh ingredients, up to the tools of the trade, used by the biggest artisan workshops and impossible to find in the supermarket. With the kit, there is everything at hand to bake at home, with the same practicality of the industrial mixes, but with the quality of a homemade product. What is “Pasticcerio” for you? A blog to remain in contact with those who love confectionery, get recipes, information about ingredients, about the working methods for various products of Italian tradition, but also advice and “tricks” of the trade http://pasticcerio.wordpress.com/
A new way of finding followers, but what do you think of tradition? The past must not be abandoned: tradition is inside us, if a product is well made, people identify themselves with it.
What are the most important aspects in preparing a cake? First of all, pay attention to taste and then to presentation. Colour gives vivacity to the counter and the eye is attracted to it. M.N.
Yoghurt and strawberry mousse.
Mignon with raspberries.
Mignon with hazelnuts. Dark chocolate tart.
Cannoncino.
Cupcake.
Marron glacé covered with chocolate.
Cappuccino.
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Delicata cake sponge sablé breton delicata cream white icing Grand Marnier to moisten the cake
g g g g
1,000 1,200 1,000 500
g
300
Take 4 round cake pans 4 cms high, place a circle of sablé on the bottom of each, fill with the cream alternating with two thin layers of sponge of 6 mm each, softened with the Grand Marnier. In the centre layer spread around 100 g of cereal pearls covered with dark chocolate. Smooth the cake with cream and chill quickly in the chiller. When the cake is ready, remove from mold and cover with dark chocolate icing and decorate.
Sponge egg yolks sugar egg whites sugar flour 00 W 150-160 potato starch
% g g g g g g
269 108 258 129 172 65
26.88 23.66 25.81 23.66 17.20 6.45
Mix the yolks with the sugar without beating. Beat egg whites until very stiff adding the sugar slowly. Add the egg whites and the sieved flour to the yolks alternating in two/three times mixing delicately with a spatula. Pour the mixture into the hopper and set the programme to "sponge". Bake at 200°C for 18 minutes, valve closed.
White icing cream milk glucose sugar gelatin white chocolate
g g g g g g
51 103 29 41 4 271
% 10,19 20.66 5.79 8.26 0.83 54.27
Sablé breton butter sugar pasteurized egg yolks flour 00 W 200-220 baking salt
g g g g g g
390 271 141 390 4 4
% 32.49 22.56 11.73 32.49 0.36 0.36
Beat the butter with the sugar and slowly add the egg yolks. Then add the salt, which has been dissolved in a little water and finally incorporate the flour.
Grand Marnier to soften the sponge syrup (50% water 50% sugar) 83.33 Grand Marnier 45° vol. g
g
% 250
50
16.67
Delicata cream custard cream neutral gelatin
g g g
476 476 48
% 47,62 47,62 4,76
g g g g g g g g
225 56 1 56 25 56 56 0,06
% 47,28 11,82 0,12 23,64 5,32 23,64 11,82 0,01
Whip the ingredients together.
Custard milk cream salt sugar flour 00 W 150-160 sugar egg yolks vanilla bean Proceed as customary.
Boil the cream with the milk, glucose and sugar. Add the softened and squeezed gelatine. Incorporate the chocolate and mix without creating air bubbles. Cover with plastic wrap and leave at +4°C for one night. An alternative is an icing made with 100 g of cream + 100 g of dark chocolate.
2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
Carlo Pozza Pasticceria Davenicio, Arzignano, Vi www.davenicio.it Photos Giancarlo Bononi
5
NEWS
Ampi’s meeting and the Italian Pastry Chef of the Year A wide audience attended the public meeting of Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani in Brescia last November, gathering some of the best artisans in Italy. The members of the association worked on some technical themes, such as the making of mini chocolate cakes, decorated panettone and savoury products, and then welcomed their hosts in Villa Fenaroli Palace with a wonderful display of confectionery items inspired to Christmas celebration, such as sweet trees, polar bears, reindeers, Santa Claus, chocolate desserts, biscuits, festive cakes and panettone... During the meeting, a conference about the future of Italian confectionery took place and some of the members were awarded gold medals for the excellence of their products. Also Irinox, the Italian company specialized in chilling technologies received a special prize. Moreover, vice president Paolo Sacchetti from Prato was elected the Italian Pastry Chef of the Year by his Ampi colleagues, receiving the golden medal - Trofeo Pavoni prize for his constant professional commitment and high skills. www.ampiweb.it
Above, the panettone by Massimo Albanese, from Treviso. From the left Gino Fabbri, the president in office of Ampi; Paolo Sacchetti, Pastry Chef of the Year and vice president; Iginio Massari, honorary president and founder of the Accademia. The panettone on the left is by Pietro Moffa, from Foggia.
International stages Bravo was a sponsor at the 7th edition of StarChefs.com International Chefs Congress, the three-day symposium, during which many famous chefs, pastry chefs, bartenders and sommeliers presented their latest creations in New York City. At the Congress the 3rd International Pastry Competition took place, with the support of PreGel America, and the winner was the Italian Salvatore Martone working at the Atelier de Joël Robuchon, in New York. From international to Italian stages, Bravo’s highly technological booth at Sigep gives space to the live demos by some members of Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani – Iginio Massari, Maurizio Colenghi with Ugo Sanvitti, Diego Crosara, Davide Malizia, Pasquale Marigliano and Gino Fabbri –, in order to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the professional association. Angelo Grasso, Pino Scaringella, Danilo Freguja, Leonardo di Carlo and Beppo Tonon are the protagonists of other professional demos. The following weekend at the end of January, Bravo goes abroad in Lyon, France, for the Sirha. At Bravo France booth the demos by some internationally renowned professionals – Massari, Paco Torreblanca from Spain, the French Cristophe Adam, Yan Brys and Sebastien Bouillet – are scheduled, while K24Evo and Trittico Executive machines are used during the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, sponsored by Bravo. www.bravo.it
The versatility of Copite Copite belong to a range of products by Bigatton that combine the crunchiness of wafers to the pleasure of chocolate and fancy toppings. These versatile products are “boat-shaped” wafers of various sizes, helping the creativity of confectioners and gelato makers. The copite in mini-round, maxi-round, mini-oval, and maxi-oval shapes can be covered with chocolate and also with rice, cocoa, coffee, amaretto, coconut toppings, and the fancier colourful sprinkles. www.bigatton.com Above, Giuseppe Bravo, Gabriele Marchetto, Stephane Treand & Tom Graves with Salvatore Martone, winner at 2012 StarChefs.com 3rd Annual International Pastry Competiton. Nicolas Gilbert & Stephane Treand with Bravo Trittico.
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CAKE DESIGN ALL MADE IN ITALY PROFESSIONAL CAKE DESIGN Silikomart Professional, after a careful research, offers to the professionals a complete range of unique and innovative moulds and accessories perfect for the Cake Design. 3),)+/-!24 -!$% ). )4!,9 food safe, practical products grant a perfect result satisfying the pastry chef’s needs optimizing preparation time.
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The airbrush ART
DECORATION
Venice Cake The authors of the book “Sweet Airbrush”, Gian Paolo Panizzolo and Mario Romani, are back to give readers inspiration on how to make a two tier cake, where the conception is strictly combined with airbrushing and the development of the cake is a union between modelling and airbrush painting. The cake is dedicated to the city of Venice, famous in every latitude for its works of art and destination for tourists and lovers from all over the world. For this reason it has been conceived as two heart-shaped layers, a larger one and a smaller one placed on top. You can follow all the technical steps on www.piwwe.com “Sweet Airbrush” Photo Lucio Linguanotto
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www.icamprofessionale.it
Italian down to the last drop. Every last drop of Icam chocolate contains something truly inimitable and unique: a passion for taste and creativity that’s Italian through and through. Sixty years of experience in the world of chocolate, carefully selected raw materials, full control throughout the farming and production chain and the use of the most advanced technology currently available: this is what makes Icam the last word in quality Italian chocolate. Icam Linea Professionale is here to help you turn this quality chocolate into exquisitely tasty creations that are Italian right down to the last drop.
I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N .
GELATO
ALCOHOLIC GELATO Some recipes and comments by two renowned Italian experts including wine as the defining ingredient
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Talking with ALESSANDRO RACCA What do you intend by alcoholic gelato? A cold and creamy milk- and/or fruit-based preparation flavoured with spirits, hydroalcoholic infusions and beer, obtained after a freezing process, to be served between -8 and -18°C. Which solutions are necessary when using wine in granita recipes? The main difficulties are aboveall linked to the presence of the alcohol, which sensibly increases the resistance of the mixture to cold. Therefore, drastically changing the freezing point, the palate perceives a marked sensation of cold and Raspberry granita by Alessandro Racca.
the typical perfumes of liqueurs and/or wine are lost. The most important method is that of using sugars with a low DE and fiber which, in fact, capture free alcohol and enables the mixture to freeze and increase in volume. Why did you choose Moscato d’Asti and Prosecco for your recipes? These two wines were chosen because of their different sensory properties and as such are representative of “Made in Italy” in the world. On one side, Moscato d’Asti, with its sugars and perfumes, and on the other, Prosecco, with its bitter aftertaste which is “rounded off” by the mixing of the sugars. In general, how can alcoholic gelato be promoted to the customers? Through a correct information on its contents, paired with a bowl, a plate or a drink. In my experience, I have noted that the consumption of alcohol linked to sweets, in general, is in decline, but there is a specific slice of the market which has a preference for modern tastes, among which also those with alcohol.
Alessandro Racca weighing the sugars.
PROSECCO GRANITA VARIEGATED WITH PEACH POCHÉ AND COCOA GRAINS PROSECCO ORO GRANITA Prosecco Oro glucose dry 38 DE
cc g
Cut the peaches in small cubes and mix with the sugar. Macerate for at least 6 hours at 50°C, and then vacuum pack and conserve at +4°C.
750 50
Dissolve the glucose in the Prosecco, then proceed with making the granita siciliana until the correct consistency is obtained.
PEACH POCHÉ peach pulp saccharose glucose dry 38 DE
g g g
Assembly Pour a spoonful (approx. 20 g) of the poché into the bottom of the glass, then add a boule of granita and decorate with chocolate and toasted cocoa pieces.
600 350 50
Alessandro Racca Imperia photos Giancarlo Bononi
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GELATO
Talking with ANTONIO MEZZALIRA What type of alcoholic gelato do you offer in your gelato parlour “Golosi di Natura”? From Col Vetoraz Prosecco sorbet to al gelato cream made with Passito di Pantelleria or with Breganze Torcolato; from the flavour of Malaga, produced with andalusian Malaga wine, to grappa sorbet made with Sarpa Poli Grappa and so on. Which alcoholic ingredients do you usually use? Do they create any difficulty in working the gelato? I use high quality wines and liqueurs, which are not easy to find such as Malaga wine or 23-year-old Zacapa rum, and I try to satisfy the expectations of the most discerning customer. Their use requires extremely precise techniques, then a gelato machine is needed which allows the alcohol to be “harnessed” in the gelato to avoid the de-
structuration. With a less powerful gelato machine there would be the risk of an even more liquid gelato being produced. The difference is in the quantity of product being inserted inside. The right balance makes it very tasty. How do you insert the alcoholic part in the gelato making processes? The alcohol must be added after having reached a temperature of 5°C and drizzled in through the cover of the hopper in the freezing cylinder, in the same way as for oil when making mayonnaise, because otherwise the structure would not resist and the product would melt. The freezing process tends to be longer than usual, because there is more antifreeze to be balanced. This also depends on the amount of alcohol inserted. Do you also offer alcoholic gelato, meaning wine or liqueur as an accompaniment to a non-alcoholic gelato? The presence of alcohol as an accompaniment can sometimes satisfy the most discerning palates. For example, a strawberry sorbet can be sprinkled with a small amount of Prosecco and be pleasantly surprising. Or a Maracaibo chocolate gelato “embraced” by a few drops of 23-year-old Zacapa rum can be liked by many.
BREGANZE TORCOLATO GELATO fresh whole milk cream 35% m.g. skimmed powdered milk saccharose egg yolks dehydrated glucose syrup 30 DE neutral 5 Breganze Torcolato inulin total
g g g g g g g g g g
1.750 600 190 500 200 190 20 500 50 4,000
Bring all the ingredients to a temperature of 85°C , except the Breganze Torcolato (passito DOC wine produced in the province of Vicenza), which will be drizzled in at approx. -5°C during the freezing phase. Remove and lower the core temperature (positive blast chilling). Put on display after resting for 1 day at approx. -13°C. Decorate with shortbread biscuits or cantuccini. Antonio Mezzalira “Golosi di Natura” Gazzo Padovano, Pd http://golosidinatura.blogspot.it
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CHARLENE
RECIPES
For 3 cakes, 14x4h cm
Composition sponge crème anglaise mousse with lavender honey yoghurt mixed berries crème anglaise Total weight 3,940 g Sponge fresh eggs clear pasteurized egg yolks sugar flour 0 W200 P/L 0,50 potato starch pasteurized egg whites sugar
g g
1,000 1,440
g g
1,000 1,500
g g g g g g g
101 162 182 141 51 263 101
Beat the cold eggs with the sugar adding the yolks gradually. Prepare light and voluminous peaks and insert, using a palette knife, the flours sieving them together . Ffinally add the egg whites whipped to stiff peaks with the rest of the sugar. Spread out or pour as preferred depending on the various uses. Bake in a fan oven at 180°C for approx. 25 minutes.
Crème anglaise cream 35% m.g. fresh milk clear pasteurised egg yolks sugar
g g g g
200 100 80 60
Bring cream and milk to the boil, whiten the yolks with the sugar and add to the liquid. Cook and bring to a temperature of 85°C. Cool to a temperature of 38°C and use.
Mixed berries with crème anglaise crème anglaise gelatin (thickener 180 Bloom) water spray cocoa butter fresh strawberries fresh raspberries blueberries cream 35% m.g.
g g g g g g g g
525 10 57 38 150 150 120 450
Warm the crème anglaise to 35°C. Add the dissolved gelatin and the melted cocoa butter, emulsify adding the cold fruit pulp. Lighten with the semi-dense cream.
Mousse with lavender honey yoghurt basic crème anglaise lavender honey yoghurt gelatin (thickener 180 Bloom) lemon juice cream 35% m.g.
g g g g g g
150 39 470 12 29 300
Heat the crème anglaise to 45°C together with the honey cool to 30°C, whipping in the cooking chef mixer. Add the gelatin melted in its water, using a palette knife, and lastly add the yoghurt, mix well and lighten with the semi-dense cream.
Assembly First prepare the sponge and the crème anglaise. Start to prepare the fillings in 12x3h cm rings. Position a circle of sponge as a base and pour on the yoghurt mousse, even out and level well. Chill and freeze until needed. Assemble the sweet in the 14x4h cm rings, line the edge of the rings with a 2 cm high strip of sponge and place a circle of sponge as a base. Then prepare the mixed berries mousse, pour a small quantity inside the rings, insert the frozen filling and finish filling the mold with the mixed berries mousse, level well. Chill and conserve until needed. When needed, cover the cake completely with a neutral gelatin and decorate with fresh fruit, mainly strawberries and mixed berries. Luca Mannori www.mannoriespace.it Photo Giancarlo Bononi
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Have you ever thought about all the tools you have to dirty making your pastry products?
Now, just imagine to have only one machine to mix, amalgamate, warm, cook, automatically cool and which boasts also a very easy and fast cleaning, which ensures to comply with the temperatures at the tenth of a degree and which grants the highest products hygiene as well... Well, you just imagined Trittico®...
Trittico® Executive is the multi-function machine which can produce the main pastry products.
Don’t worry, Trittico® will take care of it! SIGEP RIMINI, 19th-23rd January 2013 Pad. A/2, stand A/C 20-23/12-15
Sigep Gelato d’Oro edizione 2013
TECHNICAL PARTNER SIGEP GELATO D’ORO RIMINI, 19th January 2013
PARTNER COUPE DU MONDE DE LA PÂTISSERIE 2013 LYON, 27th-28th January 2013
PASTRY EVENTS
TECHNICAL SPONSOR SIGEP PASTRY EVENTS RIMINI, 19th-22th January 2013
TECHNICAL SPONSOR ART&PASTRY LUGANO, 2nd-3rd March 2013
BRAVO SPA Montecchio Maggiore (VI) Italy / Phone: 0039.0444.707.700 / Email: info@bravo.it / www.bravo.it
/BRAVOSPA
NEWS
Spotlights on Lyon 22 teams from the five continents gather in Lyon, France, on the occasion The Italian of the 13th edition of Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, team. which takes place in January 27-28 during the Sirha, the world hospitality and food service event, when a 8.000 m2 arena welcomes the participants in the two days competition. The Italian team is composed by captain Lucca Cantarin and the brothers Francesco and Marcello Boccia, followed by coaches Alessandro Dalmasso and Emmanuele Forcone, supported by Club della Coupe du Monde - Selezione Italia (presided over by Gino Fabbri), with a group of founders such as CAST Alimenti school and “Pasticceria Internazionale”, and special sponsors – Agrimontana, Corman, Debic, Fugar, Hausbrandt, Ilsa, Irinox, Italgelatine, Molino Dallagiovanna, Kitchen Aid, Ravifruit, Sirman, Valrhona, Sigep. Each team includes three members and in 10 hours they have to prepare three chocolate desserts, three frozen fruit desserts, twelve plated desserts, and showpieces made of sugar, chocolate, and sculpted hydric ice, and a presentation buffet. The winning team receives € 21.000, the trophy created by Antoine Arnaud and a gold medal; the second team € 12,000 and the third 6,000. Special prizes are given for the best artistic pieces, the best poster, the team spirit, the best promotion; a special press award is offered by “Pasticceria Internazionale”, while the team attaining the highest tasting score receives a Sevrès vase by the president of the French Republic. The Coupe du Monde was founded in 1989 by the French MOF Gabriel Paillasson, today founder president of the international competition. www.cmpatisserie.com - www.sirha.com
Chocolate and hazelnut The latest new product Nutty by Fabbri 1905 has all the flavor of one of the most popular combinations – chocolate and hazelnut. The soft, rich and mouth-watering product for artisan confectionery and gelato stands out due to its versatility and it is perfect as a filling for all kinds of sweet specialties. It can be used for preparing and decorating semifreddo, or as a filling for pralines or truffles. It is an eclectic culinary product not only for cold but also baked desserts. Its flavor and texture do not change during cooking and it is fit for combination with short crust pastry to make mouth-watering tarts. It can be spread inside a gelato cone, offering an explosion of taste, and is also good on its own, just pouring it into a tub and freezing it, as a creamy dessert ready to be served. It can be used in many ways in gelato making, i.e. as marbling for lot a of flavors or directly in the gelato machine, and the resulting product will keep well in a display case. Another idea is Bread and Nutty: 2 kilos of Nutty, 2 liters of milk and 250 grams of whole wheat bread (preferably toasted). Blend together and pour into the gelato machine, in order to obtain a classic and appreciable flavour. www.fabbri1905.com
Italian Cake Art
ALL IN ONE Irinox has brought together in one product multiple functions, which not only allow the user to manage chilling and freezing processes, but also to control proofing and thawing. Multi Fresh features controlled thawing cycles, giving the possibility to set the time when you want the products ready for retail; the innovative fast thawing cycle restores frozen products to positive temperature through a combination of temperature and ventilation, and it does not damage the texture of food, thus keeping its organoleptic characteristics intact. There are 4 thawing cycles for miniature pastries – to be put on display or sliced –, baked products and gelato. Multi Fresh takes pétits gâteaux to -2°C, which is the suitable display temperature, and rapidly to -12°C, ideal for flawless slicing. The special controlled proofing cycles give bread and any other leavened product deep taste, delicate texture, right crispness, digestibility, and extended freshness over time. With Multi Fresh you can choose the exact time to have the product perfectly leavened and ready for baking. More than 90 dynamic cycles provide the right temperature, air speed, ventilation, moisture and optimum chilling and freezing times for each food type: e.g. pies, croissants, pastry dough, mousse... Innovative and patented features have been added, such as Multisensor, the probe equipped with multiple food temperature sensing points; MultiRack tray rack, that is suited to any environment (pastry, catering etc...) and can be adjusted for length and width to fit the required number of trays; Sanigen, the active ion sanitization system which guarantees total sanitization of the work chamber, food and utensils. Working through the air, it reaches the most inaccessible and hard to clean areas, making dirt "inactive". www.irinox.com
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MARTELLATO INTRODUCES THE NEW COLLECTION SPRING SUMMER 2013 ITALIAN CAKE ART. THE LINE IS COMPOSED OF A SERIES OF FLORAL PLUNGER CUTTERS, SURFINIA TULIPS AND DAISIES, WITH THE RELATED FORMERS FOR DRYING AND SHAPING FLOWERS. MOREOVER, THE RANGE INCLUDES A SERIES OF PLUNGER CUTTERS THAT PROVIDE SUBJECTS FOR EASTER DECORATIONS, SUCH AS RABBITS, BELLS, DOVES, ETC... IN COMBINATION THERE IS ALSO A SERIES OF RECTANGULAR AND ROUND
(DIAMETER 20 AND 10 CM) STENCILS, TO DECORATE WITH SPEED AND ORIGINALITY EASTER CAKES, WEDDING CAKES OR CAKES FOR BIRTHDAYS AND OTHER CELEBRATIONS.
THE NEW CATALOGUE CAN BE DOWNLOADED FROM WWW.MARTELLATO.COM
N P
ew olycarbonate moulds line: made in Italy design and quality. Designed and produced to give pastry chefs a perfect tool to create ďŹ ne chocolate decorations. Nine moulds to make nine wonderful decorations which will leave space enogh for a personal interpretation in order to make your desserts unique. The quality of the polycarbonate used to produce Martellato moulds assures the best production of bright and elegant decorations, subjects and chocolate pralines. High quality.
To see our wide range of moulds for chocolate decorations please visit our website
www.martellato.com martellato@martellato.com
RECIPES
For years a baker, teacher and trainer, author of professional volumes, president of Richemont Club Italy, globetrotter: these are some of the roles that distinguish Piergiorgio Giorilli
CITRUS PUFFS flour W 300 P-L 0,55 g 1.200 milk g 400 baking powder g 40 brown sugar (Mascobado or Panela) g 100 salt g 25 butter g 150 eggs n. 2 egg yolks n. 2 butter for puff pastry g 500 lemon (4) or orange (3) rind or a mixture of both Mixing times planetary spiral plunge
4 minutes at speed 1 – 6 minutes at speed 2 5 minutes at speed 1 – 7 minutes at speed 2 6 minutes at speed 1 – 8 minutes at speed 2
Temperature of final mixing 21°-23°C Mix all the ingredients together, apart from the sugar and salt which is to be added halfway through mixing. This mixture can be prepared the day before and left to rise at 4°C for 12-14 hours. If it is to be used straightaway, leave to rise for 2 hours at room temperature and 1 hour at 4°C. Leave to rise with 1 four-times folded and one three-times folded, leaving to rest for approx. 30 minutes (in the fridge). Roll out the pastry, no less than 3 mm in thickness, cut rectangles in the required size, grate the fruit and sprinkle with a little brown sugar. Roll tightly, place in the fridge for approx. 30 min utes, then cut the roll into slices approx. 1.5 cm in thickness and coat in sugar on both sides. Place on baking trays or in molds as in the photo. Leave to rise at 27°C for approx. 60 minutes, leave in a cool place for a few minutes, then place in oven at approx. 210°C. Piergiorgio Giorilli CAST Alimenti - Brescia www.castalimenti.it Photos Vincenzo and Matteo Lonati
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2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
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CUISINE
Pastry chef for the Osteria Francescana, three Michelin stars, Franco Aliberti continues on his path of experimentation and open-mindedness, dissolving the thin line between savoury and sweet
THE SAVOURY SIDE What is Franco’s B side? That aspect of my character which I have managed to recover thanks to new experiences. Even if I have always had a sweet “heart” which has indicated the way, my working experience began in the kitchen. Over the years, acquiring technique, knowledge and experience, I realised how useful and essential the savoury aspect is, or rather my B side. Confectionery is an exact science and it is this fascinating world made up of formulas, chemistry, balance and combinations, that has given me a wider view of ingredients which allows me to move freely and, at the same time, cancel the line between savoury and sweet. How did you arrive at this point? For a long time I wanted to put my skills to the test, measuring myself against products such as meat and fish, and the only cuisine that has an overall open-mindedness is that of Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana in Modena, three Michelin stars. Each team member is perfectly able to replace another, each section works for itself but with others, and experimentation and knowledge are shared skills. The awareness of going “beyond” has been matured in this environment. Which direction are you taking now? I am trying to embrace my dream, to have an overall knowledge of gastronomy and to be able to open, when I feel I am ready, a place where I can express my idea of cuisine! Monica Onnis
A
MILK-CHOCOLATE COVERED BALL WITH THE SURFACE
COVERED WITH CARAMEL COATED PEANUTS WITH SALT AND TANDOORI AND INSIDE, A CENTRIFUGE OF GREEN OLIVES AND ORANGE JUICE TO BE EATEN IN ONE MOUTHFUL.
ALL
HELD TOGETHER BY A FLOWER, THE DASHI BOTTOM WHICH, WHEN EATEN, EXPRESSES THE MOST OF ITS POTENTIAL AND WHICH, THANKS TO ITS FRESHNESS, CLEANS THE MOUTH.
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CREATED TOGETHER WITH FRANCO CAZZAMALI, ONE OF THE BEST BUTCHERS IN ITALY. THIS IS PIECES OF RAW MEAT SERVED ON A WOODEN CUTTING BOARD, OR BETTER, A SERIES OF MEAT NIBBLES (INCLUDING HEART AND DIAPHRAGM) TO BE EATEN WITH YOUR FINGERS, WITH THE ADDITION OF CONFECTIONERY FLAVOURING, IN HONOUR OF CORRADO ASSENZA (THE WELL KNOWN SICILIAN CONFECTIONER, OWNER OF CAFFÉ SICILIA IN NOTO), OR CANDIED FRUIT WITH HONEY.
“LA COPPA DEL NONNO FRANK” IS AN ESPRESSO COFFEE FLAVOURED GELATO TOPPED WITH A COFFEE MOUSE WITH SMALL CROISSANT AND A HAZELNUT CHOCOLATE.
THE DISH WHICH REPRESENTS A PHOTOGRAPHIC IMAGE OF A SUNSET IS NON-OTHER THAN A RED PRAWN WITH ITS SHELL, VALERIANA, CITRUS FRUIT, MOSTARDA (AN ITALIAN CONDIMENT MADE OF CANDIED FRUIT AND A MUSTARD FLAVOURED SYRUP) AND RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
THE OCTOPUS IS COOKED SOUS-VIDE, FOR EACH SINGLE TENTACLE, INSERTING A COCKTAIL STICK INSIDE TO KEEP THEM STRAIGHT, AND THEN GRILLED AND SERVED WITH VARIOUS SAUCES: GREEN PARSLEY SAUCE TO FORM THE CENTRAL PICTURE, RED SAUCE MADE WITH OVEN ROASTED
POMODORINI DEL PIENNOLO DEL VE-
SUVIO (GRAPE TOMATOES), BLACK SAUCE MADE WITH TAGGIASCHE OLIVES…
2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
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CUISINE
Layer after layer Butter block butter flour
g g
2,500 1,500
Dough flour g 1,750 water l 1 salt g 5z Soften the butter and mix with the flour without kneading the mixture too much, in order to obtain a compact butter block without any lumps of butter. Flatten and place in fridge to cool. Dissolve the salt in water and add to the flour so as to have a smooth and homogeneous mixture. Flatten and place in fridge to cool. Cool both mixtures, roll out the dough and place the butter block in the centre. Fold over the edges and roll out again. Fold into three and refrigerate for about 30 minutes for each fold: one for twice folding/fourtimes/ twice folding/fourtimes. When the pastry is ready pull it using sugar (which substitutes the flour) to a thickness of 1 cm. Leave to rest for approx. 15 minutes, chill so that the cut of the portion is perfect and clean (in this case a circle). After cutting, leave to rest for a further 20 minutes, approx. Before baking, place the pastry carefully in a half sphere-shaped silicon mold and then place another on top so as to block the pastry inside the two molds and, using a weight and a not too high sheet, bake at 195°C. Halfway through cooking remove the second mold and finish off removing also the remaining mold.
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Cream mousse cream g 600 sugar g 100 gelatin g 5 vanilla bean n. 1 Bring to the boil the cream, sugar and vanilla, add the gelatin, which has been put to soak previously and leave to rest overnight in the fridge. Yoghurt mousse basic cream g 700 yoghurt g 400 gin g 25 lime n. 1 Whip the cream mousse and carefully add the yoghurt, grated lime and gin. For the decoration Dehydrated powder of soft fruits and Vignola cherries. Assembly Create a split in the half-sphere of puff pastry using a knife, place underneath, almost hidden, the yoghurt and gin cream with the pitted cherries, sprinkle the fruit powder over the split and complete with a line of cream.
2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
Franco Aliberti pastry chef for the Osteria Francescana, Modena www.osteriafrancescana.it
Ken Cream, always more fresh.
What is the secret of this freshness? KEN Cream is a traditional product that, thanks to its rapid processing, to its innovative packaging and its strict distribution network, arrives to destination always more fresh. A unique cream, with different formulas to satisfy all the needs of the professionals in pastry and cooking. www.skisa.com
Revolutionises the concept of cream. KEN EUROPE, S.R.L.: M. Azzarita, 206 – 00189 Roma - Italy. Tel.: +39 06 33250200 LIASA, Lacteos Industriales Agrupados S.A.: Av. Rìo Henares, 80. Pol. Ind. Ròdano - 19208 Alovera - Guadalajara. Spain. Tel.: +34 949 266 510
NEWS
HIGH QUALITY AND FRESH CREAMS Ken possesses a highly consolidated and positively perceived corporate image, thanks to its technological efforts, its constant quality improvement and its attention to customers. The range of products includes Ken Nata 38%, Ken Nata 35%, Ken Trufa, Ken Presto, Ken Láctea Azucarada, Ken Lactea 35%, Ken Culinario, Ken Gourmet Cuisine, Ken Gourmet Duo, and the latest product to reach the market, Ken Cremosa. Their level of quality is due to the care taken throughout the different production processes, confirmed with the ISO 9001.2008 Quality Certificate. Quality is also a direct consequence of an intense R+D+I process, that means investigating, developing and innovating on a daily basis. Moreover, Ken is located in a leading-edge factory with a surface of 10,000 square metres, which includes state-of-the-art facilities and automated processes, constantly updated and renewed. The application of the innovative ESL Technology (Extended Shelf Life) provides fresh creams with a shelf-life of 180 days, achieved in the stages of production, treatment and packaging. In the production and treatment stages, ultra-pasteurization allows the reduction to innocuous percentages of microorganisms, without altering the product’s properties. In the packaging stage, microorganisms and external agents are stopped from reaching the product and hence modifying its life-time. Ken laboratories analyze the whole process, from raw materials to the distribution stage. Microbiological, physical and chemical analysis are carried in order to guarantee complete hygienic sanitary conditions, and the company has also partnered up with professionals making experiments in order to test consistency, stability and texture, thus knowing how different products behave at each moment. Ken distributors, using refrigerated vehicles, are strategically appointed by the Sales Department and efficiently managed by the Logistics Department. In other words, a great effort is made with the aim of always achieving clients’ maximum satisfaction. www.skisa.com
Chocolate according to Eliseo Tonti After the success of “Tradizione in Evoluzione”, the book by Leonardo Di Carlo which was published by Chiriotti Editori one year ago, a new professional book in Italian has just came out – “Basi e Variazioni su Cioccolato e Confetteria” by Eliseo Tonti (shop.chiriottieditori.it). Thanks to his professional skills and deep knowledge, Tonti has written a volume which will turn out to be a precious tool in pastry labs and shops. The author generously reveals his recipes, ideas and tricks as it happened in his previous "Decor 2000" in the Nineties, which transformed the concept of decoration. The new book celebrates chocolate in all its facets through classical and innovative recipes, because modern artisans must work on its versatility and popularity in order to obtain inviting and marketable ranges of products: indeed today Tonti aims at this purpose and here he succedeed in doing it. Not only chocolate is explored, as the title highlights. Sugar confectionery is developed as well with the purpose of disclosing its modern potentialities. Moreover, as in the best professional volumes, the recipes are anticipated by an extended theorical section, which develops the concepts to understand the following pages, e.g. chocolate making, the use of cocoa butter, the “setting up” of recipes, the choice of products, hygiene, storage... “I would like to explain to artisans how chocolate making could be absorbing and also its economic profitability. It is a gift both for the one who produces it and for consumers, and I hope that my suggestions will help to improve chocolate consumption”.
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2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
The new trend in decorations Magic Decor by Pavoni Italia allows you to make amazing decorations for original cakes. The company’s research department has developed a special powder product: it can be used with Pavoni’s silicone mats to create elastic and thin sugar laces, which are conceived to give a unique touch to confectionery products. www.pavonitalia.com
www.sgsm.it
plus ex New version with Screwpump removable able®
www.selmi-group.it Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 info@selmi-group.it
RECIPES
MESSAGE IN A JAR
BUCKWHEAT AND GIANDUJA CAKE buckwheat flour potato starch granulated sugar salt baking powder acacia honey eggs fresh milk oilseed dark chocolate gianduja in pieces for topping
q.ty g 150 g 75 g 90 g2 g8 g 20 g 75 g 125 g 95 g 62 g 80
% on cost 7.31 3.9 7.31 0.08 0.78 8.05 9.74 6.09 7.4 19.73
% on weight 19.18 9.59 11.51 0.26 1.02 2.56 9.59 15.98 12.15 7.93
29.62
10.23
Mix the powders together in a container using a whisk. To one side, in a measuring jug, add the honey, eggs and milk, mix well using a hand blender. Melt the chocolate in a microwave oven, add the oilseed and then add this to the liquid mixture always using the hand blender. Pour the liquid part into the powders and mix using a whisk, until the mixture is smooth and homogeneous. Add the roughly chopped gianduja and pour the mixture into the baking molds. To cook in the microwave use molds in self-standing paper, in wood with greaseproof paper, in silicon or in glass. Place the mold, or molds depending on the microwave, inside and cook for approx. 1 minute and 30 seconds, 2 minutes for a size of 200 g in a 900 W microwave. In any case, since the variables are many (microwave power, containers used for cooking, product quantity, type of magnetron, fixed or rotating plate), it is recommended to test the cooking for the first time, proceeding with times of 15-20 seconds at a time, until the mixture in the mold is cooked completely. When cooked, leave to cool and package as usual. Gabriele Bozio photo Roberto Sammartini
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2013 � www.piwwe.com � n. 22
New: Chocolate bar mini dark
New: Chocolate mini
New: Bling Silver New: Zigzag dark
New: Silver lines
Member of:
CHOCOLATE
IMPERIAL OYSTERS
N. 8 oysters modelled with dark chocolate 60%
Chilli ganache white chocolate warm cream at 40°C chilli powder
g g g
100 60 2
Black sesame seed crunch black sesame sugar syrup
g g g
300 50 30
Mix well and toast in the oven to taste. Prepare a traditional crunch with a knob of butter, spread on Silpat and smooth a thin layer.
Use at 20°C.
Quantity per oyster chocolate oyster g 300 chilli ganache g 250 acacia honey pears g 50 black sesame seed crunch Bake for 15 minutes after boiling, strain through a sieve, cool and mix with slices of Parmigiano Reggiano 100 g of acacia honey. grated white chocolate Acacia honey pears fresh diced pears aster sugar syrup 30°Bé
g g g g g to
15 10 10 2 3 taste
Antonio Le Rose Il Tempio del Cioccolato, Genoa Photo Andrea Pace
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2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
NEWS
Gardens of delight Last year Pierre Hermé launched his macaron collection Infiniment Jardin. This year the series is further enhanced and the first macarons of the range, Jardin Pamplemousse, are now on sale in the shops of Maison Hermé, while the other ones are going to appear every month during 2013. Every item is intended as a small garden of delights, coupling two or more perfumes every time. www.pierreherme.com
Square trays Erremme & MPM presents new square trays (cm 20X20, 24X24, 28X28) with transparent covers. The super Italian design of these non toxic products is the result of the creativity of Erremme’s experienced staff, which is always up-to-date with the latest sector innovations. www.erremmesrl.it
Autumn mist is aroused in Jardin dans les Nuages, which will combine chocolate, smoked salt butter and a pinch of curry in October. A fine wild scented herbal honey from Corsica is matched with chocolate in Jardin du Maquis, in March.
The secrets of chocolate revealed A leading Italian manufacturer of chocolate and cocoa ingredients for professional users, Icam is located in northern Italy, with 350 employees, which was founded in 1946 by the Agostoni-Vanini family. The quality is guaranteed because the entire production chain is closely monitored by the company, from the selection of premium raw cocoa and ingredients to the production of semifinished cocoa products, production techniques and technology, constant and continuous testing, and full traceability. Icam makes a strict and careful selection of raw materials in Central America, Latin America and West Africa, working with farmers and local communities, following a strict ethical code and supporting local processing on the plantation. It is actively involved in improving local agricultural practices and the quality of cocoa, providing both technical and financial support. The cooperation established on-site not only increases profits for suppliers, but also enables better management of the entire supply chain, and ensures that only verified excellent raw materials are used. Furthermore, Icam has chosen to produce its own paste, butter and cocoa powder and uses only the best ingredients to ensure high quality fully tested products. The Linea Professionale brand is produced in the new plant based in Orsenigo, near Como: state of the art technology is adopted in the production layout and in the latest and most eco-friendly equipment. Full traceability ensures healthy products with controlled allergenic profiles. High qualified certification bodies have fully recognised the company’s commitment to quality, and its products are certified BRC Level A and Kosher Pareve.
The expertise in manufacturing chocolate has conquered the international market, resulting in unique tastes and broad product range, chocolate couvertures, cocoa powders, paste and butter, and anhydrous fat based creams form an assortment of premium professional products. Whatever the taste preference, or any other request of technical or professional nature, Icam is able to provide a complete and diversified line whose common denominator is great taste, quality, and food safety. Packaging formats, too, are designed to meet different needs and are available in sizes ranging from large quantities for artisans down to small ones designed specifically for pastry chefs. www.icamprofessionale.it - www.icamcioccolato.it
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CAFFÈ SAVOIA
1 Place a layer of chocolate topping in the bottom of the glass and continue with a second layer of zabaglione cream or custard. 2 Insert a small disc of sponge cake and 3 pour a hot espresso over it. 4 Using a teaspoon, pour over some coffee cream delicately. Finish the drink with whipped cream decorated with chocolate topping. Valter Griffone Bar Savoia, Pinerolo, To Photo Remo Caffaro
You may follow the steps on www.piwwe.com
2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
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NEWS
State-of-the-art machines Comfit coating pan by Selmi is made of AISI 304 steel and equipped with an electronic speed control to optimise the coating of different types and sizes of products. The introduction of air into the rotating tank cavity is controlled by a cooling system capable of speedily enlarging the size of confects via the introduction of chocolate. During the following phase, a resistance is used to smoothen and polish products and clean the machine. A thermoregulator on the control panel enables the adjustment of temperature to suit the required processing. Other data are: tank capacity 15 kg, hourly production approx. 15 kg/h, power consumption 1.8 kW – single phase 220 volt, cooling system 1,100 frigories/h. The dimensions are W 720 mm, D 770 mm, H 1420 mm. It is equipped with an interchangeable air filter and an automatic SpraySystem can be added. The coffee roaster Roaster 20 uses a versatile air cyclone system (vertiflow® patent), which can also be used for the roasting of hazelnuts, almonds, pistachios, barley, etc. The machine has a number of programs which control heating temperature, roasting (12-15 minutes for coffee, 5-7 minutes for dried fruit) and cooling time, and the final emission of the products. The programs can be personalised to obtain the desired grade of roasting time after time, with a product capacity ranging from 0.5 to 2 kg. Heating is obtained through circular ceramic resistors, while the choice and control of programs is made by a digital display. The machine is equipped with an internal removable peel collector and stainless steel roasting chamber and panelling. The dimensions are 740 x 1340 x 900 mm; weight: 120 kg; power: 10kw, three phase, 380 v, 5 poles. The Micron – ball refiner is equipped with a refrigerator with the purpose of regulating, within the set limits, the excess heat caused by the friction generated between the spheres, in order to preserve the organoleptic qualities of the product. Its circulation during refinement is maintained by a dual purpose volumetric pump; the refining cylinder (20 kg capacity) is also regulated to maintain a warm temperature, to prevent the fatty residues between the balls from solidifying during pauses in the working cycle. The refining time is 10kg/hour, while the power consumption is 4kW three phase 380V, 5 poles, 16A. The machine, which needs to be connected to a compressed air supply, can be used to produce hazelnut paste, spreadable creams, pralinated products, cream sweets and all flavoured anhydrous pastes. www.selmi-group.it
Art&Pastry in Lugano
Fiasconaro is growing
Art&Pastry, the international festival centered on confectionery art, will take place in Lugano, Switzerland, in March, 2-3, turning Palazzo dei Congressi into the meeting place of international sugar artists, maître chocolatiers, confectioners, chefs, pastry chefs and cake designers, expressing the last trends. During the two days, conferences and stages will alternate with tastings and shows for a haute cuisine and pastry art display, both for professionals and general public. The festival will also welcome famous professionals such as Paco Torreblanca, Luca Montersino, Davide Malizia, Eliseo Tonti, Sonia Balacchi, Gianluca Fusto... Tonti will be in charge of a contest for pastry students organised with “Pasticceria Internazionale”, where the young candidates will be asked to make chocolate sculptures. Another competition, Panettone Cup, will involve confectioners from Canton Ticino and Lombardia. They will work on artisan classical and innovative artisan products, and will be valued by a jury presided by Iginio Massari. The festival will also give space to pastry chefs working in restaurants and hotels such as Dario Ranza, Cristian Mometti, Luca Lacalamita and Loretta Fanella; the cake design experts Zoe Clark, Letizia Grella, Claudia Prati, Lorena Gil Vasquez; cocktail making and fruit carving with Joseph Trotta; window dressing and creative packaging with Paola Casalini. www.artandpastry.com
A Master Degree for Marchesi The famous Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi has recently received a prestigious award: the Honoris Causa Masters Degree in Gastronomic Science by the University of Parma, thus paying homage to the historical and international relevance of his cuisine.
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2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
The Sicilian confectionery company F.lli Fiasconaro inaugurated a new plant in Castelbuono, near Palermo. The 4,000 m2 surface includes storage areas, administrative offices, marketing and logistics sections. The previous 800 m2 headquarters are now a show room. The firm has not endured downturns for the last 10 years and the sales are constantly growing, with a yearly production of 200,000 kg. “We almost obsessively support Sicilian food excellence in the making of our products – Nicola Fiasconaro points out –, thus giving hope to the development of a local food chain, from eggs to citrus fruits”. 40% of Fiasconaro’s range is sold in Sicily, but their products are also well known in northern Italy and exported abroad, in countries such as US, Australia, New Zealand, China and Japan. www.fiasconaro.com
NEWS
A NEW ITALIAN MEMBER OF RELAIS DESSERTS In total, 5 confectioners-chocolatiers have passed the entrance examination for Relais Desserts International, on the occasion of their yearly technical conference, held in France at Yssingeaux, last September. Among these, there is the Italian Andreas Acherer, owner of a shop (www.acherer.com) situated in Brunico, near Bolzano. In addition, there are also two French (“Entering this International club is equivalent to having three Michelin stars!” commented Maëlig Georgelin, owner of the confectioner’s “Petit Prince” situated in Etel, Brittany, www.aupetitprince-etel.fr), an English and a Japanese. This is what Acherer told us about this gratifying experience. Why did you take the decision to the admission to RD? It was actually a member of the RD, Eric Baumann from Zurich, who convinced me (www.confiserie-baumann.ch). Eric is a good friend and knows both my philosophy and shop well (according to the internal rules, it must be a member of the association that proposes a new candidate, ndr). How did you prepare and which works did you have to present? The preparation was very intense and it took place during the summer, which, for us at Brunico (provincial capital of Val Pusteria and a well-known tourist centre) is very difficult! I created an artistic pièce and for a sweet I presented a coconut daquoise with a lemon and coconut mousse, all covered in a chocolate mousse. What does being a member of the RD mean to you? A dream come true! It means being part of a group which brings together 90 of the best and most innovative confectioners in the world and this gives me great satisfaction. It is moments like this that reward you for all the hard work.
Visiting the Carpigiani Gelato Museum The Carpigiani Gelato Museum of Anzola Emilia, near Bologna, opened to the public in September. The museum is an innovative structure dedicated to the study, documentation, and spread of history, values, and culture of artisan gelato, that represents Italian excellence and creativity throughout the world. The 1,000 square meter space has been carved out of the current Carpigiani headquarters. The complex is built around a central garden that connects the various areas of the building, including showrooms and the Carpigiani Gelato Museum itself. The museum features an interactive tour that highlights three main themes regarding gelato: its evolution over time, the history of production technology, the places and means of consuming. More than 20 original machines found a new home in the museum, along with multimedia presentations, 10,000 historical images and documents, accessories and tools of the trade from ages past, video interviews, and workshops. The museum is indeed a place of tradition, memory, and identity, where gelato can be experienced as an important part of European food culture. Andrea Cocchi, general manager of the Carpigiani Group, says: “The Gelato Museum fulfills the dream of our founders, Bruto and Poerio Carpigiani, the two Bolognese brothers who made it their job to spread gelato technology, culture, and business throughout the world”. www.gelatomuseum.com
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Expos and events ISM is taking place in Cologne, Germany, January 27-30, together with PROSWEET, the international supplier fair for the confectionery industry. www.ism-cologne.com www.prosweets.com From 9 to 11 February, MILANO FOOD&WINE FESTIVAL anticipates and parallels IDENTITÀ GOLOSE, the international cuisine congress, February 10-12, which will rally many famous international chefs. www.identitagolose.it ARTOZA, the exhibition devoted to bakery and pastry, will be held in February 23-26 in Athens, Greece. www.artoza.com The first edition of ART & PASTRY, the festival dedicated to gourmet pastry, will take place in Lugano, Switzerland, in March 2- 3, with contests and demos. www.artandpastry.com TIRRENO CT, the Italian hospitality exhibition, is scheduled from 3 to 7 March in Carrara; Fiera Milano will welcome TUTTOFOOD, the international biennial expo for the agri-food chain, running from 19th to 23rd May, while the international techno-bake exhibition SIAB is also scheduled in May, 25-29, in Verona. www.tirrenoct.it - www.tuttofood.com www.siabweb.com
2013 ‐ www.piwwe.com ‐ n. 22
NEWS
Cupole: inside and outside! Cupole moulds by Silikomart Professional have many advantages: they are antiadherent and easy to unmould, blast chill or freeze. These 100% food safe made in Italy silicone moulds can withstand temperatures between -60°C and +230°C and are provided with a transparent polycarbonate tray (30x40 cm). They can be combined with moulds of the Multiflex and Tortaflex ranges and their use causes a reduction of the preparation time. Moreover, they can be used as inserts inside cakes and monoportions or as decorations on top of them. www.silikomart.com
1 Fill in the Cupole01 mould, level and blast chill. 2 Unmould the preparation. 3 Put the Cupole01 insert in the MUL1 Ø80h 45 mould. 4 Fill the MUL1 Ø80 h 45 mould and level. 5 Put the insert on top of the MUL1 Ø80 h 45 as decoration. 6 Unmould the preparation and decorate at will.
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2
3
4
5
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Gulfood witnesses significant 13% growth Gulfood, the world’s biggest annual trade exhibition for the food and hospitality industry taking place in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, is set to expand by 13% to offer 113,398 sqm in exhibition space. The expansion includes an additional temporary hall, Zabeel Pavilion, dedicated to food and drink companies due to the overwhelming demand. The organisers have reported a sold out show a full six months before the event kicks off from February 25-28 at Dubai World Trade Centre. Under the theme “International Flavours, World Class Business”, Gulfood 2013 is on track to provide exporters, buyers, exhibitors and visitors benefit an even broader trade and sourcing platform as well as knowledge exchange, training, competitions and live events. The additional expo space allows the exhibitors to showcase their products in this fast-growth market, including new country pavilions from Ecuador, Lithuania and Oman. “The highly-anticipated Gulfood event is an essential event for those that want to forge new partnerships and secure lucrative business opportunities –, said Helal Saeed Almarri, chief executive officer, Dubai World Trade Centre –. The show provides the region’s largest central business hub for exhibitors and industry suppliers to experience an unrivalled product and service showcase and the opportunity to meet serious international buyers face-to-face. For trade visitors, the event offers an exceptional opportunity to source and select from a global product showcase, network with thousands of industry peers to drive the market forward and review the latest trends and innovations through the entire chain, from raw ingredients and machinery through to finished products and restaurant styling”. The additional space enables more processing and packaging equipment space, ingredients and especially finished food. With Dubai as a central trading point between east and west, food imports to the GCC are projected to rise to USD53.1 billion (AED195 billion) in 2020 from USD25.8 billion (AED94.7 billion) in 2010, according to Economist Intelligence Unit figures. In the UAE, imports are set to grow from USD3 billion (AED11 billion) in 2011 to USD8.4 billion (AED30.8 billion) in 2020. According to Dubai Municipality, food imports to Dubai rose 18% in 2011 at 6.7 million tonnes compared to 5.6 million tonnes in 2010 from 151 countries. Among the events, Gulfood is also proud to host The Gulfood Awards, for excellent food and beverage products and service; the Emirates Culinary Guild Salon Culinaire, with 1,300 young chefs competing to become the culinary stars of the future, and the third Baking & Pastry Guild Middle East Competition for professional bakers and pastry chefs. www.gulfood.com
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Dobla for a better world Dobla contributes to a better world, not only by using 100% UTZ certified chocolate but also by avoiding waste and by using only recycled materials. “We try to do more than just the above – they say – and you are contributing by working with us. For years, we have used the money that we normally spend on Christmas cards and company gifts to donate money to charity. For a few years now, Dobla supports the orphanage in Vung Tau, Vietnam, which is just less than one hour away from Dobla Asia, with our donation they were able to build a well-equipped gym, a work center for technical repair jobs and a Christmas party for all the children and volunteers. Dobla was also able to donate money to another charity fund: Against Cancer, which organizes vacations for sick children”. www.dobla.com
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