CHASSEUR Magazine | Nov - Dec 12 'Underdog'
The second issue of Chasseur Magazine, UNDERDOG pays tribute to the mysteriously seductive, roughly beautiful, careless and impulsive bad boys of our generation. From ‘Rockstar’ Charlie, a young model who has taken over the sordid world of underground boxing to the charming Boys by Girls and the rugged masculine figures of Sons of Heroes, the new issue tells stories that explain the perplexed mechanisms behind the bad boy persona. Other creative individuals include modern dandy Peter Jeun Ho Tsang of fashion label Coeur, contemporary story-teller and artist Hormazd Narielwalla, the founder of fixed gear cycling team Deaf Pigeon, David Perkins, the editor in chief of boy culture bible Coitus, Pantelis, Australian photographer and media personality Hareth Tayem as well as ASOS knitswear designer Morgan Allen Oliver. Bad Boy Syndrome also features the work of Caroline Mackintosh, Jane & Jane and Sylvain Norget. Hope you will enjoy this issue. Yannis Tzannis – Editor in Chief.
CHASSEUR NOV|DEC 12 ISSUE #2 UNDERDOG THE BAD BOYS ISSUE CHASSEUR STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS Founder / Editor in Chief / Creative Director Yannis Tzannis Fashion Editors Lauren Nicole Carfagno, Monica Jaya Smith, Ian Michael Turner Music Editor Marco Pantella Contributors Ada Alti, Vicky Florou, Nicole Micha, Bob Cal, John Fringe Photographers Caroline Mackintosh, Jane & Jane, Sylvain Norget Illustrators CorbeauBowerbird, James Forchione, Alice Wedge, Nicola O’Prey CONTACT Website : www.chasseurmagazine.com General enquiries : email@example.com Facebook : www.facebook.com/ChasseurMagazine Twitter : www.twitter.com/ChasseurMag Tumblr : www.chasseurmagazine.tumblr.com Pinterest : www.pinterest.com/chasseurmag ADVERTISE WITH US Contact us on firstname.lastname@example.org for a mediakit. WANT TO GET INVOLVED? CHASSEUR is always on the lookout for new contributors. Writers, photographers, illustrators and designers please check the ‘submissions’ section of our website. COVER Model: James @ BOSS Photography : Caroline Mackintosh Styling : Mavuso Mbutuma MUA: Cindy Horton Copyright is reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited. CHASSEUR magazine uses all materials with permission from owners. © 2012 | CHASSEUR MAGAZINE contents INTERVIEWS 06 PAUL SARZ 10 WARM SODA 12 ROCKSTAR CHARLIE 32 DEAF PIGEON 40 SONS OF HEROES 46 THE ASOS FACTOR 52 COEUR 56 HARETH TAYEM 60 SYLVAIN NORGET 64 BOYS BY GIRLS 70 PANTELIS 76 JANE & JANE 80 HORMAZD NARIELWALLA FEATURES 36 LEATHER & JEANS 50 SKULLS & DIAMONDS 84 DIARY OF AN ASIAN BOY 88 BIKINI GIRLS WITH MACHINE GUNS EDITORIALS 18 TOYING WITH THE IDEA 90 SANDALWOOD editor’s letter Illustration : CorbeauBowerbird Dear Readers, What an exciting couple of months, full of wonderful changes and new friendships! The Chasseur family has grown even bigger and we can proudly say that our first issue was more than a success, a proper ‘kick start’! Now we are back with a brand new issue which pays tribute to the mysteriously seductive, roughly beautiful, careless and impulsive bad boys of our generation. Underdog, features a diverse riot of photography, art, streetwear, fashion and music combined with a new and improved layout. From ‘Rockstar’ Charlie, a young model who has taken over the sordid world of underground boxing to the charming Boys by Girls and the rugged masculine figures of Sons of Heroes, the new issue tells stories that explain the perplexed mechanisms behind the bad boy persona. Other creative individuals include modern dandy Peter Jeun Ho Tsang of fashion label Coeur, contemporary story-teller and artist Hormazd Narielwalla, the founder of fixed gear cycling team Deaf Pigeon, David Perkins, the editor in chief of boy culture bible Coitus, Pantelis, Australian photographer and media personality, Hareth Tayem as well as ASOS knitswear designer Morgan Allen Oliver. Underdog also features the work of Caroline Mackintosh, Jane & Jane and Sylvain Norget who shot fashion editorials, inspired by the issue’s theme, in Cape Town, Toronto and Bordeaux. Hope you will have a great time reading it. Till next time. Yours, Yannis Tzannis PAUL SARZ TEXT : YANNIS TZANNIS photography : alexis kamitsos What motivated you into starting your own brand? I wanted to be creative without any rules. Working for other people always kept me at a certain level, so I took the decision to leave everything behind and start working on original projects, inspired by my thoughts, memories and feelings. Most of your your jewelry have certain features reminiscent of a bone structure. What was the inspiration behind this choice? It all started with the random discovery of a few animal bones at the amazing seashore of an Aegean island back in 2003. I instantly felt a certain connection to nature that made me realise that all beings are bound to leave something behind, even when they are long gone. The moment I got back to my workshop, I started developing a line of backboneinspired rings. I’ve been hooked ever since. What is so appealing about the concept of ‘death’? During the 19th century the phrase ‘memento mori’ inspired a whole movement which led to a series of unique artworks. These two words haunt to me to this very day. It translates into ‘remember your mortality’ but what it really means is ‘try to live life to the fullest because one day you will have to die’. That is the very essence that I am trying to fuse into my jewelry collections. Immortality. Jewelry usually come with a story. What’s the story behind your favourite piece? My favourite piece is from my latest collection, the “Dragonfly Pendants”. I wanted to own something that nature never indented for man, something very special which would last throughout the years. After several trips and days of research, I found myself designing something as delicate and carefully structured as a dragonfly wing, even including the nerves and all. www.paulsarz.com we heart BOY LONDON Boy London needs no long introductions. The brainchild of Stephane Raynor, Boy is one of the oldest urban youth brands remaining, with their iconic ‘BOY’ logo having been worn by everyone from The Pet Shop Boys, Andy Warhol and Madonna to punks and fashionistas from all over the world. Check out their range of tees and sweatshirts below. www.boy-london.com JAMES LONG X TOPMAN Designer James Long teamed up with one of our very favourite brands, Topman, to create a knitwear capsule collection. Featuring a wonderful mix of texture, seasonal colours and unique patterns, the new line is truly one of the best we’ve seen in awhile. To view the entire range, follow the link below. www.topman.com RELIGION Inspired by London’s east end and international street culture, Religion has been producing distressed garments with a unique dark aesthetic and a rock star edge since the early 90s. If you are a fan of minimal designs with airy and clean lines you will love their latest A/W 12 collection. www.religionclothing.co.uk CHEAP MONDAY Swedish brand Cheap Monday has been maintaining the perfect balance between street wear and high end fashion since their beginning back in 2005. Their latest SS13 collection is just sick featuring avant-garde designs with an androgynous and futuristic aesthetic. www.cheapmonday.com TEXT : MARCO PANTELLA MUSIC PATRICK WOLF SUNDARK AND RIVERLIGHT There are much better ways than releasing a greatest hits to celebrate a ten year-long career and The Wolfpack, Patrick Wolf ’s fanbase, are treated with a double album, “Sundark And Riverlight”. The melancholic and poetic songwriter reinvented acoustic versions of selected songs from the last decade, producing an album that sounds like a moment of reflection and an intimate “musical biography”, as he explained, rather than a collection of singles. The acoustic guitar has been left out ever since his debut album “Lycanthropy” back in 2003, in favor of the baritone ukulele, but in this record it makes its appearance again alongside a piano and some strings, to create a stripped down dimension that sounds honest and where things are looked at from a different and more mature point of view. The first chapter, Sundark, pays tribute to the darker material of Patrick. The guitar is so suggestive in “Oblivion” and the violin is exquisitely dramatic and almost medieval for “The Libertine”. It is Patrick’s inner and hidden world, a world of youth’s loneliness that has an expressive and sort of melodramatic italian-like voice as in “Vulture”. It is a sinister and folkloristic setting that ends with a ray of light in “Paris”, “I shall turn my head to the sun”. The Riverlight chapter opens with the romantic “Together” and the same set of instruments become much more melodic to convey hope. There is light and rejoice in “The Magic Position”, “Who is the one that leads me on through, it’s you” while music moments like in “Teignmouth” breathe a sense of security and good omen. Sundark And Riverlight finds Patrick coming back as an explorer of his career, ready for another ten great years. www.patrickwolf.com reviews TEXT : MARCO PANTELLA MIKA THE ORIGIN OF LOVE A pop odyssey in search of the origin of love is Mika’s mission as he releases his third studio album “The Origin of Love”. The cartoon boy of “Life in Cartoon Motion” is now all grown up but despite aiming for a serious and simple approach, the overall result of the new album still feels quintessentially Mika, as to say happy, cheeky, and fundamentally camp. Up to you to decide whether it is just enough or too much. In the pop bubble world where everyone seems to unnecessarily collaborate with the likes of Guetta, Harris, and Benassi brothers, I appreciate that Mika is mildly contaminated by this trend. Only “Stardust” features Benny Benassi as the producer and it is a fair compromise, that brings about a liberating, positive, and sunny track where Mika’s trademark high-pitched voice is utterly rip-roaring. Piano and guitar-driven tunes like “Underwater” and “Heroes” are little moments were Mika’s romantic sensibility is just enough to make a connection with the songs, “’Cause all I need is the love you breathe, put your lips on me and I can live underwater”. It may be unconventional to have a single as the closing track but unfortunately “Celebrate”, featuring Pharrell Williams, is more of a filler track like “Make You Happy”, where an engaging arrangement is spoilt by a superfluous loop. Tracks like “Emily” and “Lola” are set to entertain during live shows where Mika delivers his best and shows that there is creativity and talent in his extravagant world as he plays with all sorts of taboos. The concept of this album is not as emotional as in his debut but thanks to his admirable ability as a lyricist, that nowadays pop acts should look up to, this odyssey is a naive yet real contradiction that gives depth to a tricky love-pop album. www.mikasounds.com warm soda TEXT : JOHN fringe When they are not spending their days hanging out in Oakland, ex-Bare Wires frontman Matthew Melton, Sam Lefebvre and Frank Ene – the guys behind pop/ garage rock group Warm Soda, are either in the studio or out in the road making great music. Just months away from the official release of their debut album and their much anticipated US tour with Bass Drum Of Death, we caught up with Matthew who spoke to us about his new project, the challenges that came with it and the hilarious incident that led to the its birth. Warm Soda is quite an unusual name for a new music project. What’s the story behind this choice? One time when Bare Wires was on tour at SXSW, we met this group of teenage girls who said they were going to start a band called Warm Soda. They told us we could crash at their place but when we got there she said she lost her keys, so I broke in with my drivers licence...Turns out - they didn’t actually live there, and that became very apparent when the people who did live there showed up and kicked us out. They also weren’t really going to start a band either, and I thought Warm Soda sounded cool, so when Bare Wires broke up, I stole the name. Which elements influence your sound? We have a small analog recording studio in Oakland called “Fuzz City” where we emulate the tone and production of 1970s heavily produced pop like Nick Gilder, Phil Seymore, and Gary Glitter through the use of vintage microphones and techniques. We also listen to a lot of 80s pop music like The Go Betweens and Cleaners From Venus, and Chris Spedding. Your last album as ‘Bare Wires’ was released a few weeks back. Was it an easy transition delving from one project to the other? It ended up being an easy transition actually. When I got back to Oakland I called up Sam Lefebvre, who had conducted a Bare Wires interview for SF Weekly a few months back, and he joined as the drummer. Before departing to go on the last Bare Wires tour, I had started recording bands at Fuzz City with Rob Good and he ended up playing guitar in the group. When we decided to go on our first US tour we enlisted the skills of Frank Ene to play bass. There’s something refreshing about starting a band from scratch. You can try to map out what you want to to be, but there comes this point where you can just stand back and let it develop on its own. You recently toured Europe. Did you find the music scene to be any different to Oakland’s? Europe is its own thing. There is a different appreciation for live music there that you don’t really see in the USA. Everyone in the United States is completely obsessed with their “I-Phones”. I can’t stand those things. Most are never separated from the false world of the internet and are more concerned with taking a photo to prove they were at the show than with taking anything from the music itself. Its kinda like taking photographs in a museum. They’re missing the point. I guess Europe has that problem too, but its not as bad. It just seems like people in general have slipped away from the notion of being in the present and are now more concerned with relating to what they dream these past moments should signify for the future. The general idea is that every musician hides an inner bad boy – does this apply to you? Music is the one thing that is keeping me good. If I were to quit making music, there is a great chance that I would end up as some variety of criminal. The secret to avoiding this has to do with staying busy. I am even pretty good on tour. I like to party but my main concerns are eating healthy and getting lots of rest. I don’t drink or take drugs. The songs themselves will always mean much more to me than a random after party. What’s next? We are releasing our debut album “Someone For You” on Castle Face Records and doing a US tour with Bass Drum Of Death - all Spring 2013. Currently we are in Oakland and spend the days hanging out at Fuzz City . This place is great because it feels like a clubhouse and we can get a lot of work done. www. warmsoda.bandcamp.com rockstar charlie TEXT : YANNIS TZANNIS TEXT : YANNIS TZANNIS photography : easton schirra photography : easton schirra “Everyone wants a piece of me. Everyone wants to be the champion.” Can’t really “Everyone wants a piece of me. Everyone wants to be the champion. ” Can’t really blame anyone. Despite his young age, the undefeated champ, Charlie Himmelstein, blame anyone. Despite his young age, the undefeated champ, Charlie Himmelstein, better known by his name in the ring, ‘Rockstar’ Charlie, already has a significant better known by his name in the ring, ‘Rockstar’ Charlie, already has aboxer significant number of victories under his belt. The twenty one year old model and from number of victories under his belt. The twenty one year old model and boxer from Brooklyn, has been fighting his way to the top ever since his first Friday Night Brooklyn, has been his way to the top ever since his first Friday Throwdown back infighting 2009. One of New York’s guiltiest pleasures, F.N.T. Night is an Throwdown back in 2009. One of New York’s guiltiest pleasures, F.N.T. is the an underground boxing event that takes place in random warehouses all across underground boxing event that takes place in random warehouses all show. acrossThis the Big Apple with no particular notice but twenty four hours prior to the Big Apple with no particular but twenty from four hours prior to and the show. This modern ‘fight club’ has drawnnotice a lot of attention both the press the public modern ‘fight has drawn a lotconcept of attention from both the press challenge and the public mainly due toclub’ its unconventional where amateur models promainly due to its unconventional concept where amateur models challenge proboxers and street fighters. Seeking more answers, we caught up with ‘Rockstar’ boxers Seeking more answers, we caught up with Charlieand whostreet spoke fighters. to us about his first night in the ring, the reasons why ‘Rockstar’ more and Charlie who spoke to us about his first night in the ring, the reasons why more and more so-called “pretty boys” are joining the competition, and all things bruised more so-called “pretty boys” are joining the competition, and all things bruised and broken. and broken. What got you involved with Friday Night Throwdown in first place? I got involved in FNT because the universe decided so. My friend met a guy named Bekim in an elevator at a random warehouse party and they were talking about boxing. Bekim told my friend about the FNT parties, my friend said “HEY, I know a boxer come meet him”. I was new on the map then, 18-19 years old , a nursery school teacher college student and I had just started fighting. Bekim said “hey man we like kids like you... Fight for me.”. That was the creation of “Rockstar” Charlie. He made that name blow up. Well 6 months later anyway when he called me and I had forgotten who he was and said “hey kid you’re fighting in 3 days”. Like every true boxer, you got a nickname! What was the inspiration behind ‘Rockstar’ Charlie? The name “Rockstar” Charlie came from my first coach Mike Smith. I trained at Gleason’s Gym at the time and I was one of the only white kids who fought, I was 6’3, 16 years old, wore tight black pants, cowboy boots, a studded leather jacket and had the mixed physique of Gumby and Mick Jagger. I was his only white boy, and he loved it. He called me Rockstar. He was making fun of me, not priding me. It wasn’t until Bekim announced WELCOME TO THE RING... ROCKSTARRRRRRRR CHARLIE and then Guns N’ Roses, “Welcome to the Jungle” blasted my way to the ring; that I realized I kinda liked that name. Do you recall your very first night in the ring? What took place? I walked in and the first thing I noticed was that everyone was really good looking. It was like they took every hot person in NY and put them in one small room. I didn’t know that there were so many models, I knew nothing about it. I didn’t even know what an agency was. It sounded like a robot was having a seizure in the room ( this was the first time I was hearing dubstep). Bekim opened my eyes and ears... Fucking Bastard. I could have stayed a sober nursery school teacher/ boxer. Well anyway. I didn’t know who I was fighting. Turned out to be a black guy, a bit bigger than me, I had seen and kinda knew around from the street. I beat his ass up. He was scared of me, he vomited in the back right after the fight. I couldn’t knock him out, I was a kid and not as strong back then. When you get professional boxers versus models, the outcome is pretty much obvious, yet more and more models have taken a certain interest in this event. What is the reason behind this, in your opinion? Think of it this way. If I a model fights a pro, they still look good win or lose. The only outcome they can have is looking ballsy I guess. I have noticed though more models are winning and putting up fights, because they wanna be the champ of this shit. Everyone wants a piece of me, everyone wants to be the champ. Boxing is all about black eyes and broken noises. Has the thought of ruining your modeling career ever crossed your mind? How come that never held you back? Fuck no, I wouldn’t be a model if it wasn’t for this shit. Besides, no one has ever messed up my face. One thing I pride myself on is fast head movement. What’s next for ‘Rockstar’ Charlie? Keep on keeping on. Gonna keep boxing and keep working harder on my photography.. Things never stopped moving forward, I just hope it stays that way. www.charliehimmelstein.dphoto.com DEAF PIGEON TEXT : LAUREN NICOLE CARFAGNO PHOTOGRAPHY : DANNY CAMERON With a passion for biking and an ardency to be connected to other riders through way of the internet, Chasseur caught up with Deaf Pigeon, a UK-based fixed gear cycling team and online portal, to find out just how big riding is in the UK, future product collaboration ideas, and what we can expect to see from them down the road. Deaf Pigeon is quite a unique name. How did you come up with it? Deaf Pigeon is basically my initials (David Perkins), it was just two random words that I put together and it seemed like a pretty abstract name that I could use for anything. I didn’t want anything that had ‘fixed gear’ or ‘cycling’ or ‘velo’ or ‘team’ in the name just in case I wanted to use the name for other forms of cycling or if I wanted to blog about something that wasn’t specifically about cycling. Spinning and biking are very prevalent in the female population. Do you find that more women are becoming interested in fixed gear biking? I’ve noticed a lot more women getting into cycling recently. I know a lot of my mates girlfriends/wives/partners are getting into bikes, especially fixed gear, just because their other half is spending the majority of their free time, looking at and riding bikes. It’s great to see and I just hope it continues. You recently came together with Bark to create limited edition foot straps. Will we be seeing similar ventures any time soon? Yeah this all came about when I got a pair of their straps from Tokyo Fixed Gear and I liked them so much that I just sent a message to the guy who made them, just out of courtesy and admiration of his product really. We started talking and we created the Deaf Pigeon x Bark straps as prizes for a race that I put on middle of last year. We have just created our team jersey and we’ve always had t-shirts and stickers for sale, but I’m always open to suggestions. What about a DP bike? I would jump at the chance to create a Deaf Pigeon bike. I’ve got a couple of ideas if this ever came to fruition, but I don’t know where I’d even start if I’m honest. I’d definitely need a lot of help and experience to help me along with that project. I think I’d just get a little too excited and end up creating something that only I would ride. On your blog, you feature all things in connection to biking from the latest news and gear equipment to clothing. How big is the bike scene in the UK? The cycling scene in general is massive. Especially up north where we are. Everywhere you look there’s clubs and teams and just people cycling in general. I think it must just be something about the north. You’re so close to cities and yet so close to hills and long country roads. It’s got such a varied mix of scenery you never get bored. As for the fixed gear scene, it’s definitely growing and growing, London has a rather large number of fixed gear riders but that’s not taking anything away from everywhere else. Leeds has a very close group, Manchester’s is of a decent size too, not to mention Bristol…the scene in Bristol is incredible! For the DP team, what has been the most compelling ride? I can only talk for myself for this, but I think my favourite rides have always taken place in Bristol. I adore riding in Bristol. The hills are insane, the people are super nice and I’ve got some good friends down there now, so it’s always good fun to go down, get some people out and then head off riding through the busy streets and then off up to the suspension bridge. It’s definitely top of my list of ‘go-to’ places. I’m planning on taking my bike over to Barcelona sometime next month for some sunnier riding and being there has the potential to change my mind. What are the future plans for DP? I try not to plan too far in the future, just because if I plan something and then it doesn’t come off, I feel like I’ve failed. I just try to think of things and then do them before I have chance to back out of it. The main plan is to just keep the blog going, get more people riding and too be brutally honest… just have some fun. Cycling has quite literally changed my life, and I just want to help spread this to other people. I’ve made so many friends through cycling and I don’t ever want to stop that. www.deafpigeon.co.uk LEATHER & JEANS text : ian michael turner illustration : james forchione Think of the proverbial bad boy and the immediate image that springs to mind is invariably one of a snarling young man, tattooed and leering as he grabs insolently at his crotch. Cigarette dangling insouciantly from his lips, heâ€™s decked in leather and jeans; the ultimate uniform of bad boy cool. Of all modern fashion modes, it is these two that are the most closely associated with the bad boy image, intrinsically inter woven with him through the historical, pop cultural and societal zeitgeists of the 20th Century which still reverberate loudly today; take Michael Bastianâ€™s SS12 Collection, an homage to James Dean himself. THE FIFTIES It all began of course with the ultimate bad boys; James Dean and Marlon Brando in that decade of emancipation and pre-emptor to the Sexual Revolution; The Fifties. Dean and his denim jeans in Rebel Without a Cause, Brando in his leather motorcycle jacket in Easy Rider, they were the stars of two of the most iconic bad boy movies of all time. Both movies defined and inspired a generation marking the beginnings of a cultural movement that changed the face of society as it was known and a change to which the fashion played no small part. THE GREASER In a case of life imitating art, the bad boy look (which became known as ‘the greaser’) of masculine denim and leather with slicked back hair was adopted by the mainstream. Previously the reserve of the Hell’s Angels, it marked a highly visual and definite departure from the predominantly preppy, buttoned-up mid-century styles; a society chafing at the bit to break loose of the restrictive norms imposed upon it broke free. The films and the icons were the release trigger for millions of young men (and women) who universally adopted the style of their bad boy idols to boldly announce their independence, proudly flaunting their rebelliousness, animal magnetism and sense of sexual aberration that had been hereto prohibited and hidden behind the closed doors of a prudish society. Later the film Grease becomes the perfect reference point for this. It was a film about these young people themselves and the delinquency and rebellion of a generation of adolescents. The rebellious heroes of Grease are the bad boy T-Birds and their female counterparts the Pink Ladies; ‘gangs’ who identify through the medium of style. In the case of the T-Birds, this was the greaser look of leather jackets and denim jeans. The film portrays the moral panics of the previous generation of parents and the ever changing gender roles of the newer generation that were born out of the 1950s, shown through Sandra Dee’s transformation from preppy, sweater wearing good girl next door to a leather clad rock chick in emulation of her new found bad boy lover. SONS OF ANARCHY Throughout post-modern history, leather and jeans have been the sartorial herald of bad boy sub-culture and non-conformity. The Beats of the Fifties, the counterculture movements of the Sixties; the sexual excesses of the Seventies; the punk explosion riotously ignited by the Sex Pistols, the Ramones and The Clash, the rock and heavy metal groups of the Eighties and Kurt Cobain and 90’s grunge, to the present day where our heroes and anti-heroes alike are invariably glad in denim and leather. The bad boy in his leather and jeans is a still a potent part of our 21st century consciousness and more recently we have the characters of Sons of Anarchy and the ubiquitous vampires. In fashion itself, recent years have seen a particular lean to the tattooed bad boy. Designers are adopting this tough look to sell their creations to the masses with leather jackets and denim jeans forming the foundation of their collections and therefore our own wardrobes. Most every aspiring bad boy and even non bad boy you meet is dressed in some form of variation of the denim and leather look. From being work-wear for cowboys and uniform of WWII fly-boys, to reigning as America’s gift to world fashion, it is thanks to this Hollywood bad boy iconography and the adoption of the look by global megastars such as Elvis Presley, brands such as Levi Strauss who seized the moment and re-invented these once everyday staples, that “America gave the world two signature garments: jeans and the black leather jacket.” * and with it the ultimate bad boy look. sons of heroes TEXT : ADA ALTI What comes to mind when you hear about a Hero? What is it that you can tell about a Hero’s son? All that you need for this description is translated into the collections of the brand Sons Of Heroes, a contemporary label that is constantly winning ground. Muse, Rihanna and 50 Cent are just a few of their numerous supporters who have the attitude and confidently seek the way to express it. On the pursuit of style, anyone? Why Sons of Heroes? Is the new generation going to be better and improved? The brand itself was established out of a passionate desire to break away from those self-indulgent, money driven machines out there that are currently killing any integrity left within the affordable fashion industry. The name Sons of heroes was an obvious choice allowing ourselves to pay respect to all the sacrifices that parents make in order to provide for their families, along with recognizing the heroic figures that have helped shape the country as we know it today. The new generation will be whatever we choose it to be – more options but more decisions needing to be made – through all dark nights do come bright days. Who do you design for? Anyone who values integrity with the personality to make statements whilst fighting for what they believe. I suppose that is reflected in our aesthetic, which is characteristically very bold and confident with a hard-edged sensibility. Each season has a rugged masculinity about it and there’s just enough - but not too much, androgyny in there that won’t send male customers running for the hills. Whilst men are more in tune with their feminine side and androgyny is becoming more and more accepted in the male realm of contemporary fashion, you still have to think commercially about what’s going to sell to the male demographic in the mass market. At the same time, whilst SOH is currently a menswear label, many of our garments crossover into womens and we have seen girls looking great in some of our leopard bombers – Rihanna was rocking it the other week! But generally we like to design for someone who is happy in their own skin and who dresses for themselves and not for others. While designing, what keeps your brand’s vision intact? Belief, stupidity, honesty and personality Style-wise, which are the elements that can transform a boy into a heartbreaking badass? I think stuff comes from within, really. The ‘boy’ has to be confident, intriguing, mysterious, careless, reckless – and a bit confrontational if he has to protect what he stands for. I think a lot of it also comes from just not giving a shit about anything. Not taking life too seriously or literally. He has an attitude and isn’t scared to hurt people’s feelings as long as the truth is told. So he probably wears clothes which reflect all of that – styles which articulate a certain sensibility. But ultimately it is all rooted in truth - you cannot dress up to be what you are not. That’s just heartbreaking to look at. And why, from your perspective up until now, is this “package” so appealing to the worldwide streetstylers? I suppose because it’s non-conforming and echoes that uncompromising masculine attitude of being ferociously faithful to the self – embracing personal style without feeling the need to impress or live up to anything prescribed in the industry. Black and white are key elements to your collections. Is this how a son of a hero perceives the world or is it something that happens along the designing process? Black and white represents the two shades of all personalities and nothing compliments that better than good and bad; light and shade, night and day, black and white. Of course Sons of Heroes is very rock n’roll in style so a monochrome palette naturally lends itself to that – in addition to the odd bleaching and bold acid dye techniques which pop up sparingly from time to time in the collections. Tell us a bit about your lines: they’re quite simple but are characterised by some very intricate twists. The success in creating good menswear is striking a balance between acceptance and individuality – Therefore we aim to provide a product that allows the form of individual expression without being ostracized. This we try to create through understandable garments that all have a personality of their own. What do you have in store for the future? Our immediate goal is to secure a reliable retail portfolio which allows the brand to develop and evolve as an influential player within the international menswear scene, immediately followed by the launch of a womenswear line. www.sonsofheroes.com THE ASOS FACTOR TEXT : YANNIS TZANNIS Skinny-fit jeans, a denim jacket, some piercings, and a hard-rock attitude are the reasons why anyone would love a ‘bad boy.’ Well, at least in the 80’s. What gives today’s boys, their bad edge though? ASOS knitwear designer, Morgan Allen Oliver, has all the answers! What are the challenges a menswear designer has to face? There are an ever-increasing number of menswear designers emerging so we all need to know our own style and our customer and make sure we stick to who we are and who we are designing for. Following on from that, coming up with new ideas and finding the latest trends whilst staying true to an aesthetic can be a challenge. From an ASOS point of view, we need to appeal to a wide range of customers, we have our core demographic but as any high-street retailer we need to reach as many men as possible. Do you think men are keener on experimenting with their style, now more than ever? We are changing in our attitude to fashion I think, or like to hope. We are becoming less rigid in what we do, and how we see ourselves so I think there is definitely scope for experimentation. The massive rise in popularity of vintage over the years has obviously added to this. People are happy to mix charity shop finds with the latest trends. Which fashion pieces should be in every ‘bad boy’s’ closet? The Bad Boy is always relevant to fashion. It is a staple of modern British style. We are seeing a leaning towards the Rocker, MOD look. Leather biker jackets, stone wash denim and a solid pair of DMs are a must. How do you view men’s fashion? Do you consider it to be more or less exciting that women’s? Menswear and Womenswear on the high street are obviously very different. Womenswear can be far more flashy or showy, you can get a girl to wear almost anything. Menswear has to be more subtle, more intricate and detailed. It’s the hidden parts of menswear, the interior details of blazers or finishes on jackets that make them exciting. As an ASOS designer where do you find yourself getting most inspiration? Inspiration comes from anywhere and everywhere. At ASOS we look a lot at street style. Seeing what people on the streets are wearing really shows what our customer is looking for and how they dress. We also spend hours and days trawling through magazines and catwalk shows and compiling our own trends to work from. What are the season’s key trends and what should we expect in the future? We work on a much faster pace than, say, high-end designers, we will have 4-6 different trends or ideas for a season. AW12 will see everything from British Heritage to Rock Star Opulence, it is always good to have a broad base and give the customer as much choice as possible whilst still appealing to their fashion sensibilities. Moving into spring we will see a lot of fun and prints are going to make a massive statement. What kind of advice would you give to someone who is new to online shopping? Start small. Maybe start with basics. Buy a T-Shirt, see if it fits and suits you. When you know a style suits, look for the more tend led pieces, ASOS has such a huge selection so there is always something new to try. And if you don’t like something or it doesn’t look right, send it back, it’s simple. Buying online is so easy and there is so much choice, just have fun with it. www.asos.com skulls & Diamonds TEXT : MONICA JAYA SMITH ILLUSTRATION : ALICE WEDGE A skull and crossbones: reminiscent of the ‘pirate’ era, an emblem once used to warn enemies by ripping the head off of a captured fellow and hoisting it upon a stick. BEWARE, this could be you. The intimidating lure of the skull, the standback notion of the bones, everything about it is threatening. It’s a warning sign, a symbol. However, through the ages up until the modern day, skulls have been symbolic albeit not necessarily so threatening in their nature and have been worn as motifs of mortality, an object of mourning, or an emblem of popular culture. The dark and often mysterious nature of the skull reeks of havoc, chaos, and burning still replicating the darker side of life, the side we as the alive fear – our worst fate. They have though become popular in the jeweler’s world, be it a piece of fine art constructed of diamonds by Damien Hirst or a masculine biker’s skull from Crazy Pig Designs. GALLIBARDY Galibardy is an online retailer of jewelry for both men and women. They specialize in all things jewelry from rings to necklaces, bracelets and earrings. The range is viewable online, where items can also be purchased. The men’s collection features a lot of Celtic inspirations, skeletons, religious icons, animals and of course skull rings. www.galibardy.com CRAZY PIG Crazy Pig is a London based jewelry design company specializing in skull jewelry and designs. They have many ranges available including bespoke jewelry which are special pieces made in gold or platinum incorporating diamonds. Each piece in the bespoke range is made to order making the piece a one off especially for you. www.crazypigdesigns.com DUFFY Based in East London Duffy is a bespoke jewelry designer who has collaborated with many other designers within the industry including: Katie Eary, PPQ and Caharrt. Each piece within the Duffy collections is handmade. The ‘Labour of Love’ collection, features alternative skull designs through which Duffy has let his emotions run riot. www.duffyjewellery.com ZOE & MORGAN Zoe and Morgan are a luxury jewelry company with a vast spread of jewelry collections ranging from wedding rings to their men’s collections, which feature many variations of skull adorned rings. Luxurious in all aspects Zoe and Morgan specialize in iconic pieces for him and for her. www.zoeandmorgan.com UGO CACCIATORI Ugo Cacciatori is an Italian fashion brand specializing in jewelry and accessories including bags and belts. Clothing is soon to come to the website. Based in Italy, the brand has branches the world over in America, Australia, Milan and Japan. www.ugocacciatori.it coeur TEXT : VICKY FLOROU PHOTOGRAPHY : Panos Damaskinidis It is said that dandyism is a ‘refined vulgarity’ but then again ‘a dandy could never be a vulgar man’. By all means, the modern day dandy is above all an authentic dapper, a savoir vivre connoisseur. He is confident, cool, playfully preppy... most definitely a coeur man. Peter Jeun Ho Tsang, the creator of this fresh menswear lifestyle brand reveals to us all about him...well, almost. What drew you to study fashion and when did you chose to be a menswear designer? Almost like a natural calling, which is the case for a lot of new designers, my path started at young age when I decided to study ‘Art Fashion’ at high school. Since then it was a natural progression from one experience to the next and studying at London College of fashion has helped to mould me as a fashion designer. My visions to what I was going to be doing as a designer has shifted over time, but having the freedom to create whatever I want tom, has never ceased to drive me forward. Being a menswear designer was another natural progression through the exploration of men’s tailoring. It was During my MA in Digital Fashion when I decided to make the concrete decision to forge ahead with coeur as a menswear brand. Everything just seemed to fit. You launched your brand ‘coeur’ in 2012. It seems like a bit unexpected name for a man’s collection. What were your thoughts on the brand’s name selection and what exactly does it represent? French for heart, coeur is a caring brand and this was always my ethos from the start. The modern man is no longer afraid to show his emotions, express sophistication and acknowledge his sensitive side. I wanted to ensure all of this was reflected in the brand name as means of stamping my originality on the industry. From the brand name to the clothing, to the marketing, I wanted the emotional value of the brand to be embedded in everything that was created for coeur. Emotional design and branding is the foundation of the label and has always been something that is very important to me. Yes, it’s unexpected for a menswear brand but that’s what I wanted – to take menswear in a different direction. It’s not your average lifestyle brand that is churning out the same menswear styles en masse. What makes Coeur to stand out compared to other brands? What is its competitive advantage? Playfully preppy, coeur is menswear originality at its best and uses 100% brand exclusive silks woven in England. Working with a fabric mill based in the UK, I wanted to support ‘Brand Britain’ by working closely with the skilled craftsman at the mill. Coeur is all about colour, texture, luxurious fabrics, but reappropriated for menswear in a different way currently not seen on the market. Coeur offers luxury at an affordable price point, whilst innovating through the revivial of tradition. Regarding the ‘Coeur ‘man. What are the qualities that make him distinguish? He is cool. He is confident. He is COEUR. Coeur is aimed at the younger gentleman that likes to show flair and is not afraid of colour. He is sophisticated and refined, yet holds playful and child like tendencies that open up his eyes to the beautiful world around him. Speaking of modern dandy boy how did the idea of Julian, the brand’s resident dandy, come up? Julian is the voice of the brand - the ultimate sophisticated and stylish man, a refined gentleman that muses about life and everything coeur. Coeur’s playfulness is emanating through Julian, whereas some brands may have a celebrity as their ambassador, Julian is the depiction of what the coeur gentleman is. He is the reference point for our customers. He exudes cool and collected confidence. It is commonly known that girls like bad boys. Surely, underneath that saucy demeanour of Coeur boy there is some kind of hidden ‘hints’ of misconduct that can be seen as integral parts of his charm. Could you reveal them to us? Well, that would be telling! You’ll have to wait and see as to what Julian does next. What to expect from the Coeur man in 2013? Expect fine, detailed, ethnic inspired prints, bold colours, and the revival of a silk jacquard weave dating from decades ago; a celebration of British craft where the fabric mill is over 250 years old and oozes rich heritage. Tailoring is still quirky, slim fitting, and of course playfully preppy. The brand will work with several retailers to roll the collections out, and don’t forget that it’s also available to purchase online! www.coeur.uk.com HARETH TAYEM TEXT : NICOLE MICHA Ex-model, turned into actor, presenter and now photographer, the multitalented Hareth Tayem explains how he decided to step behind the lens. Chasseur asks him about his alluring life as a photographer, his idea of the industry, his fashion goddesses and how he managed to shoot the notorious Playboy mansion from a helicopter. Although you’ve been in the fashion & media industry for years it has only been recently that you decided to delve into photography. What motivated you to do so? The motivation was a combination of a few things, I was constantly capturing “frames” and images in my head everywhere I would go. I came to a point where I started getting frustrated with not being able to share these moments with others, so it occurred to me that it was time to actually shoot these moments. I was in front of the camera when I was a model and then periodically when I was a TV presenter and I had to “choose” one side as many industry folk kept advising me. I had gathered a world of important industry contacts over the 15 years of being in the industry with many top models whom I’ve remained in close contact with, so my introduction as a photographer was a very well received one. Has being on the ‘other side’ affected your perspective of the industry? I would like to think it hasn’t, but the truth is, it has. It is quiet alarming and heart breaking to see models enter the industry and not make the most of it. The nature of this game is to understand that there is an expiry date to how long you can solely rely on a career as a model. It’s such a great industry and very easy to ‘live in the moment’, however the trade off is you may one day find yourself with no castings or bookings, sitting some random country trying to come up with a plan on what you will be doing next with your life. Lately there has been a great increase in the popularity of inked or pierced models such as Ash Stymest and Alice Dellal. What, in your opinion, is the reason behind this? Trends, fashion and icons represent self expression. Be it of our time, people, culture or simply the human race. Models like Ash Stymest (who is a very close friend of mine) and Alice Dellal (whom I’ve met) are not only beautiful and have a unique style about them, but they have a personality perfectly suited to how they look. Ash is out of control with a twisted sense of charm which lets him have whatever he wants in this life. He is constantly getting trouble by designers, photographers and agents and yet they will still book him , shoot him and work with him. Trendsetters are the complete package. The moment you meet people like this, you understand why they have been positioned in the industry; to set a trend or pave the way for a new “look”. Are there any models, you have been dying to work with? Why? I have a few. First of all Claudia Schiffer! I was completely infatuated by her in my teens. She is such a beautiful woman and she is still going strong. Kate Moss. I spent some time with this legend of a supermodel whilst I was living in London. It’s hard to explain but she really does have that ‘IT’, the thing that you hear people talk about. Finally Helena Christensen. We became good friends when I was in Toronto, working there as a model. I could not grasp that woman’s beauty, she really is incredible! You have been travelling the world extensively for years in search of new projects. Which has been the most exciting so far and why? I’m all about exploring and shooting in locations I could only dream about. Some of the most exciting shoots I’ve done in terms of fashion would have to be shooting on Volcanic terrain in Romania and Topkapi Palace in Turkey. Photography wise, I’ve been doing a few aerial / helicopter shoots! I shot the statue of Jesus in Brazil from the sky, several celebrity homes in Los Angeles , the Hollywood sign and the Playboy mansion also from above. What will tomorrow bring for Hareth? I honestly don’t know and I actually don’t really think about it. I’ve spent most of my life trying to navigate or control the direction of my life and career and realized that for the most part it was out of my hands. Becoming a photographer has taught me to slow down and enjoy the moment. I’m so happy right now, have been for a while and I just hope this continues. www.harethtayem.com sylvain norget TEXT : YANNIS TZANNIS A true admirer of the naked body form, French photographer Sylvain Norget has been fusing elements of voyeurism found in paparazzi photos of previous decades into his art, to produce unique portraits of ‘real’ men. Read as Sylvain talks about his life and work while he shares a few photos shot especially for the ‘Bad Boys Issue’ , featuring MAP model Arthur Jacquier. You have been an accomplished photographer for years. Do you feel like you’ve done almost everything? I don’t know if I am an accomplished photographer, I guess that’s not for me to say. What I know is that I am constantly trying to become a better photographer and I hope that it will be that way forever. The moment you feel like you’ve accomplished everything, it’s the moment where you have to retire! The most common subject of your work is the male body form. What is so attractive about it? It’s easier to shoot men and between us, I like easy things in my life! I started out shooting male models and ever since model agencies thought of me that way. This wasn’t really a choice and to be honest, I actually love shooting women as well. This issue puts the focus on boys, bad ones to be exact. Is there a particular side you wish to explore every time you shoot a male model? I’m really inspired by the 90s era and Heb Ritt’s photography work where you could see ‘real’ men and not some skinny teenagers – like it’s used these days. Personally, I think that male models should start their careers at least at the age of 25. Almost all of your photos share the same element of voyeurism. What is it that you are trying to achieve through this? Actually I love old paparazzi shoots and that’s why what I’m trying to reproduce each time. I love this kind of photography. Candid pictures are the best, when models are just being themselves and you don’t even exist in their minds. Could you describe the narrative behind your photos? There’s no story behind my photos. I just want to shoot what I look at. I don’t believe in storylines as we’re not talking about movies. People are free to imagine what they want about them, they can tell themselves a story and that’s good! What are your future plans? Doing what I do, but even better! I love to work with comedians too, that’s interesting because, in that case, beauty is not the subject anymore. I do not want to be famous, I’m not eager about that, I’m 38 and that takes time, I don’t want to waste! www.but.20mn.com boys by girls TEXT : ADA ALTI Youth and boys. The best introductory line ever. And “Boys by Girls”, is the best collaborate project ever, too, founded by Cecilie Harris and India Hobson, two talented photographers with the vision of showcasing their female photographic point of view through their cameras. Object of interest: boys. Just like the “Virgin Suicides”, only that in this case, the protagonist would definitely have to be Trip Fontaine. “Boys by Girls” - such a simple and direct title. Did you come up with the project idea just as effortlessly? India and I came up with the Boys by Girls concept, over a coffee at Starbucks. It was an idea that seemed ‘meant to be’, as soon as we started talking to each other. What kind of face is ideal for your creative captures? I tend to be drawn towards, the younger male. I have finally been able to figure out why, but that’s a much longer story that I tend to keep to myself. I like to think that every photographer’s story, is a story to be unfolded through their work, and a reason why people keep coming back to your images. Another thing I’m drawn to in a model is innocence. It’s something that doesn’t last long in our lives, and while it’s there it’s simply magic. Talk to me about your collaboration with your creative half, India Hobson. We met a couple of years back and wanted to collaborate on a project together. As a result we created Boys by Girls, which has already grown more than we originally set out to. India has been a bit of a rock as well as a voice of reason and support through this journey. It’s wonderful to be able to bounce off each other with ideas when you have similar passions. Many of your photographs bring in my mind a bittersweet taste of a lost love I have yet to experience. What kind of emotions do you seek evoking? I guess one of the things I want to do with my work is to let each image tell a story as much as possible. I work very closely with my models to get them comfortable enough to trust me, and give that extra bit on a shoot. As a result I seem to be able to draw upon their emotions, and create results that let the viewer experience be more impactful. I like to experiment with bringing different feels and emotions to an image; in particular serenity. It’s a way for me personally to find peace in an otherwise very hectic world. What kind of boys hide the best stories? Has a pretty face ever broken your lens’ heart? Boys that aren’t scared to ‘dig a little deeper’ and express their emotions, tell the best stories in an image. This often comes with experience, but some has this naturally. Some boys are happy to go anywhere you let them go, as long as you guide them on what you want them to express. I think this is all about how you, as a photographer, are able to work with your model. I also find it easier to get the most out of a model when I shoot them for a second time. This means that there is a connection that helps him express even more. For Boys by Girls in general we really want to share images with soul. This is what inspires me. Does your project reflect the perplexity of the female mind as far as boys are concerned? I think it reflects fractions of the female mind. How we view the boys is different to how male photographers view them. So I often find that a lot of our images are softer, have the boy in focus and let the boy tell his own story. How do you picture your project’s future evolving? “A Place Called Youth” will be our first newsstand issue distributed globally. So that is very much the next chapter for us. “A Place Called Youth” is all about the young male of today, and features 24 amazing established models and the best of up and coming boys. We look forward to keep expanding and can’t wait to see our fourth issue in newsstands around London at the end of November. Availability in Europe, America, Asia and Australia will then follow shortly. Very exciting times for Boys by Girls. www.boysbygirls.co.uk PANTELIS text : yannis tzannis A move to a new city, a sex dictionary and some good ol’ ambition were enough to turn, what started out as a hobby, into a British boy-culture Bible. Coitus, the brainchild of Cypriot photographer Pantelis, is a bi-annual magazine fueled by pure boy power. Francisco Lachowski , Sebastian Sauve and Marlon Teixeira are just some of the industry’s hottest faces to appear on the pages of the magazine. Chasseur questioned Pantelis about the sexual elements that shape his work, the future of Coitus and his favourite boys. When and under what circumstances was ‘Coitus’ born and what inspired you to choose such a controversial title? I had reach a point in my life where I felt I was too comfortable in a 9-5 job and I wasn’t pursuing my dreams as I initially set out to do by moving to London. So I decided to take a risk and found a small magazine so I can show what I can do as a photographer as well as an editor by putting something like that together. Coitus is still a hobby I keep doing from my room at this point but commercially it has exceeded every expectation. Because my work has always been sexual I knew the name had to match too. I actually got a ‘sex’ dictionary and started looking at words that would look good as a magazine logo and then I came across Coitus. The magazine originally featured both boys and girls so it seemed appropriate. Every big project comes with equally big challenges. What were yours, delving into such an ever-demanding industry? The challenges are a lot and on a daily basis. As I mentioned, it’s a magazine that was created from my bedroom with the help from some creative contributors. But financially there is no backing and we recycle the money each issue makes to create the next one. So each issue could potentially be the last if we get things wrong and bring out an issue that doesn’t sell. Also for the time being it’s a hobby, an exhausting hobby that me and whoever helps, have to work on our free time. For the last three years I have personally been working 18 hours per day, to be able to juggle paid jobs as photographer, retoucher and graphic designer as well as run the magazine and other creative projects. Getting recognition for your work though makes it all worthy. What inspires sexuality to your work and what attracted you to sensual photography in first place? I was always interested in the sexuality found in pop culture, in general. I think you either are as a person or you are not. You can’t be influenced into it. Even things I was interested before I knew I wanted to be a photographer, show my interest, so it was natural to be inspired from sex in my photography. The work of David Lachapelle, Terry Richardson and Guy Bourdin at an original stage, helped me form my style of photography and art direction. How do you cast your models and which has been your favourite boy to work with so far? We usually cast models just from looking at photos. The nature of the magazine with being independent means that we don’t really have the time for castings etc but we try to see the energy and vibe as well as how each model photographs from a selection of photos. The personality makes a huge difference though, because you can see someone’s energy in the photos. I really like to bring back over and over again models who we have great time working with. A lot of the models are now friends! I loved working with guys like River and Francisco etc, but Sim Jennings and Roland Lepp are two of my favourite models to photograph cause they are so interesting and intense and they light a room with their personalities as well as their looks. Your latest issue puts the ‘American Boy’ figure on the spot. America has always been really conservative when it comes to sexual rebellion, though. How do you view this connection? The American boy has always been iconic in films, photo and fashion campaigns so with a selection of photos we got from America for this latest issue, it came natural to celebrate that. I do wonder a lot how a big powerful country like America can be so conservative at the same time as its progressive and Coitus has always been about fantasy. Going through the pages of it you escape real life for a few minutes into a world we would all love to live, a bit like a Lana Del Rey video. So for this issue we had our take on how we picture boys in America. Could you give us a little taste of what to expect from both you and Coitus in the near future? I have reached a point with Coitus where I feel that it needs to go to the next level. Stop being a tiring hobby and become a business, so I am hoping to approach publishers and present them to brand I have created these past few years and see where it goes from there. If that does not happen then I will take a break for a bit to rest and then come back with new ideas, look etc. Personally I would like to experiment a bit with video, start making short films and see how it goes. www.pantelis.co.uk jane&jane TEXT : MONICA JAYA SMITH Bri and Britt, otherwise known as Jane & Jane are a pair of twins working together to produce lucid, free and romantic photography. Using art and imagery to express themselves and break barriers of communicative difficulty, they work through organic processes letting their ideas and concepts form and grow naturally. Infatuated with the nature of their work, Chasseur asked the creative duo to shoot something inspired by the ‘Bad Boys’ issue theme. The result was an amazing editorial entitled ‘Sandalwood’ (p 90). How did you decide to work together as photographers? (Britt) I think it just came naturally actually, Bri started taking pictures of me, then I started doing makeup for her shoots and then I started shooting with her. It just made sense to work together, I’m glad she let me! (Bri) I don’t think there was a defining moment, it just sorta bleed into a joint thing. We never really assumed we’d be working apart in life I think. Where does your creative drive originate from? (Bri&Britt) We think our creative drive comes from our inability to communicate well through spoken word with others to be honest. We use art as a way to break those barriers and express ourselves. Photography is all about imprinting your own vision in stills. Being twin sisters shooting the same subject, what does the other bring to it? (Bri&Britt) We each bring a different vantage point and someone to bounce ideas off. It then becomes an image we feel neither one of us could have gotten without the other. Also, the ability to distance ourselves from the subject matter, step back and really take stock of the possibilities. Is there a particular way in which you like to capture boys? (Bri&Britt) We shoot boys in the same manner as we shoot girls; soft, mysterious, sad, and sometimes odd. We like seeing other emotions coming from them then the standard for boys. If you could shoot any boy in the world, who would you shoot? (Britt) Bri is going to say Yuri! Ha ha. I think I’ll let her field this one! (Bri) Right now I really want to shoot Yuri and Vladimir Guryanov. Yuri because he looks like he’s up for anything and has a really relaxed sort of “here I am take it or leave it” persona that comes through in photographs. Vladimir! He has the most interesting look! He looks like he glows and I find this fantastic. I’m drawn to oddities, vulnerability, and ‘don’t care’ attitudes when it comes to boys. Some of your photos of the boys are quite emotive: are you emotive as photographers and people whilst you work? (Britt) I know for me when I’m shooting, a lot of how I’m feeling at that time will come through the photographs but I tend to lean to more unhappy emotions in photographs overall. While I work however I’m quite the opposite, as much as you are there to work you still have to have fun, enjoy what you’re doing and make the people around you as relaxed as possible. (Bri) We’re actually making jokes and try to keep things light. It helps make the model feel more at ease and then we can get the things out of them we need for a photograph when they are more relaxed and trusting of us. Which photographers and/or artists inspire you and in what way? (Bri) Nicol Vizioli is one of my favorite artists. Her combination of old painting techniques applied to photography and use of simple and complex subject matter kill me! (Britt) Kimberly Gordon, she has wonderful style and light. Her photographs make you want to be a part of what’s going on. I also like Roy Lichtenstein, he has great sense of emotional tension in his pieces. www.janeandjane.com HORMAZD NARIELW ALLA TEXT : VICKY FLOROU Hormazd Narielwalla has been utterly enchanted by the unexplored aura of the long forgotten, bespoke tailoring patterns ever since walking the doors of Dege & Skinner of the renowed Saviler Row Company in London. A contemporary story teller, he managed to incorporate these patterns into his art and create a series of exquisitely crafted collages which have been showcased in several international exhibitions as well as various publications. When was that ‘turning moment’ you decided that you wanted to be an artist? When I realized that there was a potential to make things from tailoring patterns other than clothes. When I met the Managing Director of Dege & Skinner in Savile Row, and learnt that they shred all patterns of deceased customers – it left a profound effect on me! I see them as artifacts, shapes, and materials through which things could evolve. There was no point in making clothes as they were made for bodies that no longer exist. I organically transitioned from a designer into an artist as I was capturing an experience, a feeling, responding to them in a way I am left with something that becomes a work of art in it’s own right where the work is not about something but it in itself. Describe us the creative process of making your collages. I always start with the physical patterns, which tell me what to do. Always, the pattern is the central focus and the tailor’s actual imprint of lines, chalk marks, scribbles, measurements and notes become a vital part of the image. I work better with an actual hands-on approach and through that process, develop my artworks. It is also important for me to have a story (one that already exists or something I’ve made up), sometimes a tailoring reference, or a lot of times a feeling. So for instance, I revisited death when I acquired a considerable amount of deceased customer patterns having rummaged through the tailors archive and decided to explore Memento Mori by making 3-dimensional skulls. I also have a golden rule for myself, that no part of the pattern gets discarded – every bit of it is used in my work. So the leftovers from the skull imprint were mounted around a projection of my skull to explore their outlines in the negative. Is there any particular work that you cherish the most so far? My first book Dead Man’s Patterns – as that’s where it all began. The response from the art and fashion world was phenomenal for me. The book is archived in the Rare Modern Collection of the British Library along with 25 other collections around Europe and America. It got the attention of Sir Paul Smith, Richard James and Timothy Everest. It was also the reason why the firm commissioned me to write my second book – The Savile Row Cutter. So for me it will always be a special project that I always remember. Artistically, I keep going back to the book – finding new inspirations from it. I will cherish it for life. Chasseur means hunter. Metaphorically speaking, it seems that everybody hunts their personal ‘prey ’. What is yours? I am hunting down archives of tailoring patterns, books and stories for me to keep on making new art. How would you describe yourself as a person and as an artist? The artist and the person are the same. I describe myself as sensitive, vulnerable with a hunger to experience life for what it has to offer. You can / can’t live without… I can live without selfishness and can’t live without my eyes. What is the most important advice that was ever given to you? What is the most important advice that was ever given to you? This might sound cliché – “Do not defend that you are an artist! You are what you are, and you should make no qualms about it!” A gallerist who I respect immensely gave it to me, and it changed everything. What do you consider to be the most challenging part of your ‘exploration’ so far? Drawing a straight line or a perfect circle. You have already published two books, The Savile Row Cutter and Dead Man’s Patterns. Is there a third one on the way? At the moment I’m concentrating on finishing my PhD at London College of Fashion but I am considering launching my third book next year, which would revolve around my Anansi collages. The prototype is made and I am looking for a sponsor to produce it. www.narielwalla.com diary of an asian boy TEXT : BOB CAL ILLUSTRATION : NICOLA O’PREY It was my sophomore year in college, and my roommates and I were eating lunch at the university cafeteria. Sitting at a table next to us were all of the international students from Asia. I remember them having such a distinct presence. From their fashion, to their hairstyles, to their attitudes and demeanors, there was something about them that felt so modern and in style. Not everyone shared my fascination with their sense of style though. I recall my American roommates being baffled at the sight of so many men wearing cardigans, skinny jeans, and man purses. Being American of Asian descent, I was never really surprised by it all but this time got me thinking that maybe western values are not used to this aesthetic of masculinity. Men in the west are expected to fit certain categories, such as the working industrious male, punks, inner city culture and so forth while in Asia, there are so many different types such as the Flower and Harajuku boys or even ‘beast men’. FLOWER BOYS Flower boys are known for their bright colored skinny jeans, man purses, loafers, and floral patterned shirts as well as their tendency to wear make-up everyday, such as ‘guy liner’ and foundation. This sub-culture, which is more common in countries like South Korean and China, commenced in the late 90’s and early 2000’s, around the same time when many Asian countries rose to economic and social prominence. As these nations emerged as economic giants, this type of youth culture sprang to life in their metropolises. Some of the characteristics that follow Flower boys are to be very well behaved and hardworking as well as industrious people. They attend school for ten hours a day for six days a week and study academic material even when they go home. Their roles in society are to be responsible citizens that contribute to the improvement of the nation. On a personal level, they are shy and meek. It is expected for people to talk to them first. Their mannerisms and personalities can be seen as flamboyant to some. These personality traits are typical for males in Asian societies. Well-behaved ‘good boys’ are valued in these parts of the world. Introvert personalities are also common amongst Asian males. All these personality traits took form in a collective sense of fashion sometime in the early 2000’s due to the growing presence of democratization. This aesthetic of men’s fashion can be attributed to the accepted norms in Asian society. BEAST MEN Another phenomenon that is occurring in the Far East is the objectification of males. Now, more than ever, males are equally as objectified as females are. Asians in the media such as actors and singers have so much pressure to use sexually suggestive material to please advertisers and sponsors. This atmosphere in the media gave rise to a sub-culture called ‘beast men’. The men that fit this cateory can be best described as masculine, tough, attractive yet still stylish. They are usually dressed in vests or open shirts to display their toned physique. Other of their fashionable attributes include heavy jewelry, baggy jeans, piercings and spiky hair. They gravitate towards accessories that contribute to a tough image. The ‘bad boy’ personality is a popular commodity these days. One of the reasons why this cultural aesthetic emerged, is to be a counter movement to the flower boys. For every large cultural movement, there is always a counter movement. The youth in Asia are also pushing to break the traditional views of their cultures. Asian men are not usually viewed as ‘cool’, or ‘sexy’, attributes which are widely valued in global pop culture. Beast men represent the total opposite of this notion. Another factor that contributes to this cultural phenomenon is the social change that countries of the east are currently experiencing. Women are seen under a different light and for the first time an objectification of the male can be viewed. A NEW DAY IN FASHION Newly advanced societies usually produce groundbreaking youth cultures. When the U.S. emerged as a global superpower in the 50s, its youth culture was teaming with cultural revolutions, from the sexual revolution, to the feminist revolution to the hippy movement. Now that countries such as China, South Korea, Taiwan and Malaysia have huge populations of young working people as well, it only makes sense that great cultural movements are bound to take place. It seems like new days are coming for fashion and this time from the Far East. BIKINI GIRLS with machine guns Text & Illustration : Nicole Micha Whoever said that women are the weaker sex had probably his arse kicked by one. We ‘ve seen the bad boy stereotype in so many movies, sang in so many songs and read in so many books. Yes we love our inner Jim Stark or Mick. Even girls put on jeans and throw on a leather jacket to show their “rougher” side and subconsciously become a girlier version of Rebel without a cause. But even for us girls there are plenty of stereotypes -even though we hate to admit- that we absolutely love to copy. Either by being part of a dynamic duo or a single unit in an all bad boy rough band, there is plenty of female representation in the thrill-seeking planet of living life on the edge. Chinese philosophers say that Yin and Yang are complementary forces that interact to form a greater whole. Whether it is in books like Blanche DuBois and Stanley Kowalski or in music like Alison Mosshart and Jimie Hince, dynamic duos exist and can satisfy our starvation for iconic rebellious figures. TOUGH CHICKS What we’ll experience in these next lines are the rough chicks that gave the power to the mighty rebellious men. We’ll start with the infamous gangster duo of Bonnie and Clyde, portrayed by Faye Dunaway and Warren Beatty in the 1967 movie version. The film represents a simplified version of the actual duo’s escapades but does not fail to illuminate us on the darker side of female mystery. The super villain couple made its way into eternity by showing just how ruthless a woman can be when supported by an equally cold-blooded man. In an attempt to showcase a competitive side of the two sexes or even give male characters a previously non existent sex-appeal, more and more female villain figures were created. A perfect example would be Catwoman, the equivalent of the silent, mysterious and yes, sexy type of guy – Batman. Catwoman, a lean mean machine came into the picture (literally) not only to seduce female readers but to stand as equal against Batman. Talking about mean machines, we couldn’t possibly not refer to one of my personal favourite film personas, The Bride (aka Black Mamba). The iconic Uma Therman in Tarantino’s Kill Bill is filled with revenge and thirst for blood. Whether it was the cool moves with the Hanzo sword or the up in the air kicks, The Bride is one of the 100 greatest characters of the last two decades. EQUALS IN CRAZY In a less bloody level there is always the classics.“Frankly, my dear, I don’t give a damn”, must be one of the most classic film lines in the history of cinematography. Even though ‘Gone With The Wind’ is a historical film, it is also a hymn to romance. Scarlett, a spoiled, self-centric belle is admired by Rhett Butler, a gambler who gets into fights but under that mucho exterior has an insightful and understanding nature. The ideal clash of characters, combined with jealousy, erotic passion and mixed emotions, represent a switch of male and female stereotypes. In the same spirit, ‘A Streetcar Named Desire’, a play by Tennessee Williams and its film adaptation by Elia Kazan, is based on characters that are not immediately likable to the audience but yet smack them in the face leaving a mark in their memories. Stanley Kowalski, played by Marlon Brando in his most iconic role, is an alcoholic who constantly yells, gambles and does not personify the idea of a husband until he finds his equal in crazy, Blanche DuBois. Brando’s perfect aggressive performance along with the sexual tension between his character and Blanche, made the film an epic guide to rebellion. There are plenty of dynamic female and male duos who complement each other in craziness, self-destruction and decadence, but we’ll always find them alluring no matter how raw or ruthless these might be. SANDALWOOD PHOTOGRAPHY : JANE & JANE MODEL : JAMES @ ELITE a