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©Copyright 2015 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.
For more than 32 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known — and least known — destinations to discover in the United States and Canada.
Byways is published in two versions, a Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iPhone and iPad. And a Apple Newsstand/App Store edition. All advertising, editorial and video is included in both versions of the publication. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 http://bywaysmagazine.com
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PREVIEW
By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
elcome to Byways annual children’s book Anne of Green Gables, possibly live up Oceans View issue, featuring to her expectations? The final Oceans theme feature takes us to Virginia, destinations along the Pacific, where Pam Windsor tours the beaches of Virginia Beach, Gulf and Atlantic Oceans of North 35 miles of coastline from the Chesapeake Bay to the America. North Carolina border. And we also learn about the hisBut first I want to welcome Bill tory and attractions that make Virginia Beach so popular. Graves to Byways. A veteran Naval In What’s Happening, we travel to Tennessee to disofficer, Bill has spend the past 20 years after retirement cover Music City Roots in Franklin. It’s just a short distraveling the highways and byways of North America in tance from Nashville, which explains the depth of talent search of that great story to tell, and beginning with this issue, he will bring that story to us! In keeping with the you will find here. Music City Roots is a 2-hour weekly Oceans theme, Bill travels to Cape Canaveral on the celebration, broadcast nationally on PBS stations, a showcase for the finest roots musicians locally or just Atlantic, and we enjoy his passing through the unique perfective on visiting The Wharf on Alabama’s Gulf Coast Nashville area. And the Kennedy Space Center. you’re invited to attend Byways cover story feathe show and enjoy a full tures the white sandy beachmeal -- all for under es of Alabama on the Gulf of $25.00. Mexico. This 32-mile stretch But the fun doesn’t stop remained a little known there, as there’s plenty to secret until recent years, but discover nearby. Like the word is out now. The Puckett’s Grocery in white sand is almost entirely Leiper’s Fork, the composed of quartz grains Factory in Franklin, and washed down from the Carnton Plantation, home Applalatian Mountains thouof the Widow of the sands of years ago, making South. and one of the this one of the finest beaches largest Civil War battles. in the world. But there’s alot The Birthplace of more here than sand, as you Texas is open for busiwill discover. ness in Brenham. This is Next, we head west to the where the Republic of Pacific, as we Cruise the California coast on the Crown Texas and the state of Texas were born. It’s great histoPrincess. Pat Woods returns to Byways as she joined 3000 passengers and 1200 crewmen to travel the ry, and well worth the trip to Washington on the Brazos. But Brenham is also known as the home of Blue Bell California coast by water. The seven day adventures feaIce Cream, and the little creamery has suffered through a tures some of California’s most popular destinations, major product recall. Fortunately, there are plenty of reaincluding San Francisco, Santa Barbara, and San Diego. sons to visit Brenham this year, as you will learn in this If you prefer to stay on land, we also visit California’s article. Ventura County West. Just an hour north of Los Angeles, Finally, It’s not only the 50th anniversary of Universal this little known region has retained its laid back, slow Studios Hollywood, but the countdown has begun on the paced California charm. With 22 miles of uncrowded beaches, there are plenty new World of Harry Potter, scheduled to open here in of bike and walking paths, mountain views, and ocean 2016. Join the celebration as we travel to the magical adventures. And did we mention it’s the gateway to the world of Universal Studios Hollywood and Harry Potter! We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways. Channel Islands National Park? Next, we travel to Canada where Jennifer Maxwell takes us on a journey to find Anne on Prince Edward Island. Can this place, famous for the classic Canadian 4 • Byways
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Volume 32, Issue No. 3, 2015
On the cover. The white beaches of Alabama! The white beaches, made almost entirely of quartz grains washed down from the Appalachian Mountains thousands of years ago, are some of the finest in the world. Learn more about Alabama beaches and other Ocean destinations beginning on page 8.
Features
Ocean Views 2015 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 The Beautiful White Beaches of Alabama! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Cruising the California Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Along California’s Coast in Ventura County West. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Finding Anne on Prince Edward Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 The Beaches of Virginia Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Departments
Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways, with Bill Graves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
What’s Happening
Discover Music City Roots, History in Franklin, TN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Birthplace of Texas Open for Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Universal Studios Hollywood Celebrates 50th . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Coming in future issues of Byways…. . .Rivers and Lakes, Great American Roads, The Leading North American Tour Destinations, and much more! Next Up: Rivers & Lakes. Milwaukee’s beautiful lakeshore and skyline.
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Ocean Views
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The Beautiful White Beaches of Alabama!
The beautiful white sand of the Alabama Gulf Coast as viewed from the Perdido Beach Resort in Orange, Alabama. Byways photo. Byways • 9
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Alone on the beach. Photo courtesy Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism.
or many years, Alabama’s Gulf Shores and Orange Beach remained a little-known vacation destination, 32 miles of soft sand and clear waters that lace the edges of the state’s southern border to the Gulf of Mexico. The white, sandy beaches look and feel very different from your traditional beach. Made almost entirely of quartz grains washed down from the Appalachian Mountains thousands of years ago, the white-sand beaches that make up Gulf Shores and Orange Beach shorelines are some of the finest in the world. And the sand feels different. It doesn’t stick to your feet, or sandals. There’s a clean feeling upon leaving the beach. The showers are there to wash off, but it’s hardly necessary. While well known as a regional destination, the Alabama Gulf is now attracting a broader range of visitors, as the region has expanded its tourism promotion efforts well beyond the state’s boundaries. And tourism now plays a major role in the economy of Gulf Shores. Despite some setbacks, the region is now thriving, with new hotel and condominium construction, new restaurants, and new attractions dotting the landscape. The 2010 BP oil spill was expected to severely affect both local real estate and beach tourism. However, the 10 • Byways
tourism economy in Gulf Shores has returned to prespill levels. The Gulf State Park boasts 6,000 acres of land with miles of protected shoreline and wildlife exhibits. Check out the Hugh Branyon Backcountry Trail (and its miles of scenic woodlands and wetlands) or the 900-acre Lake Shelby (a fisherman’s favorite). The Adventure Center at the Gulf State is the Gulf Coast's newest and most exciting provider of outdoor adventure. Hummingbird Ziplines consists of 6 exciting ziplines with four over the waters of Gulf Shores Steamer platter at SanRock Cay Marina. Lake Shelby. Seafood lovers can’t go wrong, and it’s only steamed Cast your cares away when here. No fried on the menu! Byways photo. you cast your line during a deep-sea fishing adventure in adventure, refuel with seafood that doesn't get any freshOrange Beach, where the country’s largest artificial fisher than right off the boat. ing reef awaits you. Or, hide a history lesson in a trip to Chartered fishing boats and cruise boats for sunsets, historic Fort Morgan, the guardian of Mobile Bay since dinner cruises, dolphin watching, and watersports 1834 and where four wars were fought. After a day of embark regularly, and the area is home to two of the top-
An aerial view of the National Shrimp Festival. Photo courtesy Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism.
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Coast Segway Adventures. Experience guided segway tours through Gulf State Park, while exploring often overlooked marshes, sand dunes, swamps, an alligator or two! Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.
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The view from the Perdido Beach Resort in Orange, Alabama. Byways photo.
rated golf resorts in the Alabama -- Craft Farms and Kiva Dunes. There are a total of nine signature golf courses, as well as a state-owned 18-hole course. Don’t miss the Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo, as featured in Animal Planet’s The Little Zoo That Could, which works hard to bring visitors to the next level. Get up and personal with lemur, kangaroo and even tiger cub encounters, as this private zoo brings a unique experience simply unavailable at large, public zoos. The city is home to an annual three-day music festival on the beach each May, the Hangout Music Festival, which draws more than 40,000 visitors to the area. And you can hangout at the Hangout restaurant, a favorite gathering place and a major festival sponsor. A visit to the Gulf Shores of Alabama will surprise you, and you’ll leave with a feeling of new discovery, that you’ve found a beach location that exalts beauty and quality, that allows you to forget those honky tonk beach experiences of past years. And soon you’ll be telling friends and family alike of your new discovery. http://www.gulfshores.com
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A fishing charter in the Gulf of Mexico. Photo courtesy Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism. Coast at The Beach Club. Exceptional atmosphere paired with fine dining overlooking the Gulf of Mexico. Byways photo.
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View of the Crown Princess docked in San Diego shot from a Hornblower North Harbor sightseeing tour. Photo by Pat Woods. 14 • Byways
Cruising the California Coast By Pat Woods
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San Diego skyline view shot from the famous Coronado Bridge on an Old Town Trolley tour. Coronado Island is one of 11 trolley stops on the 25-mile route.
fter several wonderful river and ocean cruises in Europe, we needed a break from costly and exhausting international travel getting to and from European ports. A California Coastal cruise had been on my radar several years. When we found the right deal and itinerary for a 7-day round-trip Los Angeles Princess cruise, husband Rob and I grabbed it. With 3,000 passengers and 1,200 crew members, the Crown Princess is the largest ship on which we have sailed. The Crown Princess atmosphere is embodied in the Piazza. More than a multi-deck atrium, something is always happening in this European-inspired dining and entertainment venue. On the first formal night, the champagne flowed freely during the Captain’s gala welcome reception. Dozens of art works depicting European and Mediterranean scenes enhance the Crown’s beautiful interior. Along with customary large-ship features, the Crown has three pools and a large outdoor screen for movies, videos and sports events. Crown Princess provides a bevy of tempting dining options. For lunch we favored the International Café’s specialty salads, quiche and European-style pastries. We chose “Anytime Dining” for dinner and shared tables with Californians, other Americans, Canadians, 16 • Byways
Brits and Asians. Many tablemates were Princess regulars enjoying their loyalty perks. A culinary highlight was a dinner at Sabatini’s, the ship’s upscale Italian restaurant ($25 per person). Francesco, our skilled Italian waiter, made food and wine recommendations. The grilled zucchini and eggplant appetizers were perfectly done. Our artichoke soufflés were smooth and delicious. For our main course, I had lobster, while Rob indulged in an improvised surf-and– turf lobster and grilled lamb.
After a relaxing day at sea, the Crown called on three California ports.
San Francisco
www.sanfrancisco.travel In San Francisco, the Crown docked within easy walking distance of the Aquarium on the Bay, Pier 39’s shops and photo ops, as well as the many sightseeing options, sounds and aromas of bustling Fisherman’s Wharf. We chose three of City Sightseeing’s hop on/off tours (www.citysightseeingsanfrancisco). During our lively downtown tour, Zelda, our seasoned guide, shared factoids, trivia and colorful yarns about San Francisco’s history and current happenings. Next we headed to Sausalito on another City Sightseeing open-top bus. Sally, our cheerful and articulate driver, shared tips on where to find free chocolate samples as well as space on crowded cable cars. After stopping for photos north of the Golden Gate Bridge, she said Sausalito’s housing prices are as stellar as the gorgeous scenery. Following a short Sausalito visit, we rode a third City Sightseeing bus to Muir Woods. Our driver skillfully navigated the serpentine road while dispensing fascinating local information. We thoroughly enjoyed inhaling
the fresh piney scent of the giant redwoods and other greenery while hiking Muir Woods trails. The heavenly scent of bay trees and coastal redwoods will linger in our memory bank. We ended our San Francisco port day at the beautiful Aquarium of the Bay on Pier 39 studying up-close views of our favorite sea critters.
Santa Barbara
www.santabarbara.com Local volunteers warmly welcomed us to Santa Barbara. An early morning trolley tour took us through this lush green city where palm trees sway and colorful flowers bloom on terraces and medians. Spanish Colonial architecture dominates here with countless redroofed white stucco buildings. The trolley driver told us many old talkie movies were shot in Santa Barbara before production studios moved to Hollywood. Today this beautiful city still is favored by the rich and famous. Prices for even tiny modest houses range upward from 1 million. With 500 restaurants, Santa Barbara is a diner’s paradise. Paved walking/running/skating trails run for miles, and beach volleyball began here. The trolley stopped at Old Santa Barbara Mission,
A musical group performs in San Diego’s Old Town, one of 11 scheduled stops on the Old World Trolley Tour. Photos by Pat Woods. Byways • 17
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In San Francisco, the Crown Princess docked within easy walking distance of the Aquarium on the Bay as well as Fisherman’s Wharf tour operators, attractions and delightful aromas. Photo by Pat Woods. Byways • 19
Visitors can take a City Sightseeing San Francisco bus to walk among the giant redwoods in beautiful Muir Woods, a national monument north of the Golden Gate Bridge. Photo by Pat Woods.
which continues as an active Catholic parish with daily and Sunday Masses. Sadly, the church interior was not open during the 20-minute trolley stop. Back at the waterfront, we walked out a long wood pier to Sterns Wharf. At Ty Warner Sea Center, we watched school groups interact with sea critters in touch tanks. We caught a shuttle bus (Just 50 cents for adults and 25 cents for seniors, but crowded with a big ship in port) to the courthouse. An elevator took us to the fourth floor outdoor observation area, a favorite spot to enjoy the view and catch a cool breeze.
San Diego
www.visitsandiego.org The Crown conveniently docked at a prime spot on San Diego’s waterfront. This beautiful port city had an earlier life as a tuna canning center. When the tuna supply was depleted, the waterfront morphed into today’s attractive tourist center. As we did in earlier visits, we opted for the Old World Trolley Tour that travels a 2-hour, 25-mile route through the city making 11 scheduled hop on/hop off stops (www.trolleytours.com). Before each stop, well-versed drivers provide witty anecdotes, fun facts, and fascinat20 • Byways
ing tales and weave history with current information on what to expect. Recorded theme music adds to the fun atmosphere. We got off the trolley at some of the most popular stops. At Coronado Island we walked through the grounds and lobby of the world-famous Hotel del Coronado. We could have spent the entire day at Balboa Park, the nation’s largest urban culture park, home to 15 museums, beautiful gardens, the San Diego Zoo and more (www.balboapark.org). In the afternoon we enjoyed a Hornblower north harbor cruise narrated by a ship officer who pointed out numerous military vessels in the harbor: a nuclear fueled submarine, carriers, plus several support vessels as well as dry dock facilities. More information: 619-686-8715 or (www.hornblower.com/home/sd) All three California port cities warmly welcome cruisers, have moderate climates and gorgeous natural scenery. How else can one unpack just once and experience four Pacific coast cities in a week? The trolley and/or hop on/hop off tours we took all were interesting, economical and enjoyable. The California Coastal itinerary is a great option for first-time cruisers or anyone wanting to avoid the stress,
This scene near Sausalito, shot from a San Francisco City Sightseeing bus, is one many visual treats north of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. Photo by Pat Woods. fatigue and expense of international travel. Next year we will search for another “closer to home” cruise. For Princess cruise information, call 800-774-6237 or visit www.princess.com.
About the Author. Based in the Phoenix area, Pat Woods has penned scores of cruise, rail and travel features. You can see more of her work at: www.clippings.me/users/patwoods
The Old Santa Barbara Mission, one of the city’s top tourist attractions, is a stop on the Santa Barbara Trolley tour. The Mission continues as an active Catholic parish with daily and Sunday Masses.
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Along California’s Coast in Ventura County West
The Ventura coastline and Pacific Ocean as viewed from Grant Park. Photo courtesy VenturaCountyWest.com. Byways • 23
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trip to southern California often means the obligatory visits to Hollywood, Universal Studios and Disneyland, complete with crowds and traffic. But only a little over an hour northwest of Los Angeles is a little known region that seems to have held onto the laid-back, slow-paced California charm. Called VenturaCountyWest, it features 22 miles of uncrowded beaches, plenty of beachside bike and walking paths, mountain views and ocean adventures, and is the gateway to the Channel Islands National Park.
The Channel Islands Lighthouse. Photos courtesy VenturaCountyWest.com.
Channel Islands
Celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, Channel Islands National Park is a group of five islands 11 miles offshore. The islands are often referred to as “California’s Galapagos” due to their rugged shores and isolation. The Channel Islands are home to over 2,000 plant and animal species, of which 145 are found nowhere else in the world. Daily tour boats bring individuals and groups to these largely untouched islands. Along the way, visitors can spot sea lions, dolphins and when in season, migrating gray, blue and humpback whales. Once onshore, visitors can take guided hikes, bird watch, fish or just explore. Swimming, kayaking and overnight stays (in tents) are also popular. 24 • Byways
Ventura Harbour Village
Harbor Life
While working harbors, Channel Islands Harbor in Oxnard and Ventura Harbor also cater to tourists. Ventura Harbor Village contains an arcade featuring an old-fashioned indoor carousel and a candy shop with more than 20 varieties of fudge made fresh daily. Visitors can rent paddle and electric boats to tour the quiet harbor channels while watching sea lions sun themselves on the docks. Not Herzog Wine Cellars, surprisingly, both harbors feature restaurants Oxnard, CA. serving fresh catches. The Ventura County Maritime Museum at Channel Islands Harbor attracts over 25,000 visitors a year giving them a sense of the region’s connection to the sea. Docents guide visitors through the museum, passing maritime art and ship models while telling seafaring tales. In Ventura, the Channel Islands National Park Visitor Center has an up-close and restored artifacts. Visitors are welcome from sunrise display of marine aquatic life and clear views of the until sunset. ocean and islands from its open second floor. Look back at the fighting aircraft of World War II at the Commemorative Air Force Museum in Camarillo. The A Little Inland museum has everything from restored period planes to The Santa Buenaventura Mission is a one-of-a-kind an array of military memorabilia. Volunteer docents lead museum and a big draw in VenturaCountyWest. tours and visitors can arrange to take a flight on one of Founded in 1782, it was the ninth and last mission found- the aircraft. ed by Junipero Serra. It is known for its beautiful garden You don’t have to be a car buff to appreciate the beau-
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The Santa Buenaventura Mission
ty and workmanship of the cars on display at the Mullin Automotive Museum in Oxnard. The museum is a celebration of the Art Deco era of car making when automobiles were works of art as well as machines. Visitors admire vintage Bugattis, Delages, Delahayes and Voisins as well as racing cars that have taken the top prize at Grand Prix de Pau and the 24 Hours of Le Mans.
serve some of the freshest farm-to-table produce and locally harvested seafood in the state. One way to experience an abundance of the fresh tastes of the area is to take a half-day Ventura Food Tour. These organized walking tours of downtown Ventura combine local history, culinary education and the tastes of area food. The tours are available for individuals and groups on weekends and some weekdays. Locally-Sourced Cuisine, Burgeoning Most people think they have to travel far north of Los Wine Industry Angeles to reach wine country, but because of its strong Because of their close proximity to agriculture (more ties to the land, it makes sense that Ventura County is than 125,000 acres are farmed in the county) and the sea, becoming a popular wine tasting destination. The the many independent VenturaCountyWest restaurants Ventura County Wine Trail features 18 wineries and tast-
The Mullin Automotive Museum in Oxnard. 26 • Byways
Hikers on Santa Cruz Island. Photos courtesy VenturaCountyWest.com.
ing rooms in the area. Group tours can be arranged so there is no need to drive. The largest winery is Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard. It is one of the only all-kosher wineries in the United States. During the week, visitors can see its state-of-theart wine fermentation and bottling process in action, then
taste wine in a beautiful setting before enjoying Mediterranean-influenced cuisine at Tierra Sur Restaurant inside the winery. For more information on things to do and where to stay, go to www.VenturaCountyWest.com.
The Camarillo Commemorative Air Museum
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Traveling the Highways & Byways, with Bill Graves
lorida is home to 17 million people. Last night, Friday, I think most of them were driving around Orlando. Traffic was a mess; I performed my role as a tourist by contributing to it. Today, I’m not far from Orlando, but what a contrast. I am on a desolate piece of beach, certainly the longest such beach in Florida, if not the East Coast. This is Cape Canaveral. It appears on the map as a long island. I am standing in the afternoon shadow of an Atlas V Rocket. It’s 19-stories high. It took two years to build. By this time tomorrow, it will have done what it was built to do and will have traveled thousands of miles to do it. Its engines and boosters, generating over two millions pounds of thrust, will send its satellite payload on a brief journey that will end 22,236 miles above the Earth. That’s 100 times higher than the orbit of the Space Shuttle. The whole operation, from launch to spacecraft separation, will take three hours, one minute and 23.2 seconds. It’s hard to comprehend that this massive rocket will disappear tomorrow in less than a minute. Everything that we deal with on Earth -- excepting organic material that nature consumes -- will end up somewhere, even if it’s a land fill. But this piece of Space Age hardware will just vanish, leaving no sign, but a scorched launch pad, that it ever existed. Final fabrication of the Atlas V is done in Decatur, Alabama, with parts coming from California, Texas, Florida and Switzerland. The engines are made in Khimki, Russia. They tell me that the Russians make the best rocket engines in the world. Some of the Russian builders are here today as observers, but they keep to themselves. I am here as a guest of United Launch Alliance, a private company that now performs most of the launches in the United States. The launch sites are here at the Cape, and at Vandenberg Air Force Base north of Los Angeles. The intended orbit of the vehicle determines from where it is launched. Following retirement from our space shuttle program, NASA has gotten out of the launch 28 • Byways
business. Private enterprise is picking up the slack. But NASA wrote the book on the subject, primarily manned space flight, and will always have a presence here, personified today in the Visitor Complex at the Kennedy Space Center. Named for President John F. Kennedy, the Center is actually an installation that was the launch site for every U.S. manned space flight beginning in 1958. It’s 34miles long and six-miles wide. The Center is now the focus for our civilian space program using three pads at the adjoining Cape Canaveral Air Force Station. The Visitor Complex just celebrated 50 years of space history. Aside from two IMAX theaters, the Shuttle Launch Experience ride, and other theme-park like attractions, it offers a bus tour of the whole installation. The bus stops at the Apollo/Saturn V Center, where a Saturn V rocket – like the one that sent our guys to the moon – fills the building. Were it not here, there would be room for a football game.
Driving by the Vehicle Assembly Building, one of the largest buildings in the world, the bus driver told us that American flag painted on the side of it is 20 stories tall. “Each star is six feet across,” he said. At a pond we watched an alligator slide into the water. Seeing one of Earth’s oldest creatures here at the Cape, put a period perspective on this place: the site of man’s greatest scientific achievements.
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.
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Prince Edward Island. Photo courtesy Canadian Tourism Commission. 30 • Byways
Canada
Finding Anne on Prince Edward Island By Jennifer Merrick
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Prince Edward Island scene. Photo courtesy Canadian Tourism Commission.
s I’m driving across the eight-mile long Lucy Maud Montgomery’s inspiration for Green Gables, Confederation Bridge from New Brunswick to Anne’s adopted home. Anne herself didn’t live here Prince Edward Island with my family, I’m worried that this province, which I have wanted to visit ever since I was a child and read the classic Canadian children’s book Anne of Green Gables, can’t possibly live up to my expectations. But when the red sands appear, and they are exactly what I thought they would be, I know the island won’t disappoint. And it doesn’t. It charms us. Of course, the island has changed along with the world since the book was written in 1908, but Anne, Canada’s beloved freckled red-headed heroine, is everywhere. At least her spirit is, which lies in the young girl’s exuberant zest for life and in her ability to wonder at the beauty around her. So we find Anne not only in the Cavendish tourist sites like Green Gables Heritage Place and Avonlea Village, but also when we’re biking the Confederation Trail, where every turn reveals new views of the sea or fields edged with wildflowers, and when we get a close-up view of bald eagles on the red sands of Boughton Island. PEI has so many places with ‘plenty of scope for the imagination,’ as Anne would say, but here’s where we feel her presence the most. Green Gables Heritage Place A true Anne pilgrimage site, this historical house was 32 • Byways
Green Gables Heritage Place. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.
because she was a fictional character (hard for Anne fans, myself included, to admit this), but the details of the Victorian-decorated rooms hold true to the book, including a puffed-sleeved dress. We finish our visit with a walk through the Haunted Woods, where we wander through Lover’s Lane and trails, where the author chose to set many of her stories. Interpretive signs detail how these places inspired the prolific author. “The woods always seem to me to have a delicate, subtle life all their own,” reads one, a quote from Montgomery’s diary.
Avonlea Village At this recreated early 20th-century village, the characters and the setting of the book jump off the pages. We wander through the buildings joining in the activities that range from hands-on crafts and old-fashioned games to dress-up and theatre. Actors do a wonderful job of staying in character, so you can chat with Anne’s favorite teacher, Miss Stacey, or see what trouble mean Josie Pye gets into. The highlight for the kids is the 1908 county fair where they participate in potato sack and threelegged races and sack tosses. They love the pig race, too, a definite novelty for city slicker kids! www.avonlea.ca
Anne’s Green Gables Heritage Place. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick. Confederation Trail Flat and scenic is a good combination for two wheels, and cyclists come from all over to ride the Confederation Trail, a 470 kilometer recreational path. We rent bikes in Morell at Kingfisher Outdoors and enjoy Anne-worthy views as we cycle the 15km to St. Peter’s, where we stop for one of the best fish and chips on the island, Rick’s Fish ‘n’Chips. http://pointseastcoastaldrive.com/things-do/entry/confederation-trail
http://kingfisheroutdoors.com/ http://ricksfishnchips.com/
Cow’s Ice Cream “You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream which is the same thing,” reads one of the t-shirts at PEI’s celebrated creamery. My kids can’t agree more. We indulge more than once on our travels around the island, and even bring home some of their dangerously delicious chocolate covered chips. There are several locations, but if you’re interested in doing a tour visit the Cow’s Creamery. www.cowscreamery.ca Byways • 33
Cavendish National Park. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.
Digging Giant Clams Anne would have thought this adventure as splendid as do we. From the fishing village of Georgetown, located on the east side of the island, we hop aboard a lobster boat, where we meet our captain, Perry Gotell, a fisherman with long roots on the island and owner of Tranquility Cove Adventure. As we cruise to various spots, Gotell tells us about lobsters, mussels and his own childhood spent clamming on Boughton Island. But the real fun begins when we get the chance to dig for giant clams. Decked out in wetsuits and masks and snorkels, we plunge into the cold water. One of the fishermen points to a small bubble in the sand and sure enough underneath is a giant clam, which is raked up and plunked into the bucket. I’m thrilled when shortly afterwards, I find my own clam without any help, as are the 34 • Byways
Avonlea Village. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.
kids and the others on the tour, and in no time we have enough for our beach picnic. My daughter and I stroll down the red, red, sand that stretches for miles. We spot eagles in the distance and slowly advance towards them, curious to see how close and we can get. Surprisingly, we edge to about 6 feet of one of the majestic creatures before it takes flight. My daughter picks up a feather before we walk back to our group, who is gathered around a large pot where the freshly caught seafood is boiling. www.tcapei.com ‘It’s delightful when your imaginations come true, isn't it?’ says Anne. And Prince Edward Island is indeed delightful.
About the Author. After teaching English as a Second Language abroad for 7 years, Jennifer has now 'settled down' in Toronto. But her feet continue to itch and she now travels whenever she can with her family, writing about their adventures in numerous diverse publications, including Buffalo News, Latitudes, Virgin Atlantic Blog, Ontario Magazine, Forever Young, Montreal Families, vacay.ca and Today's Parent.
Tranquility Cove Adventure’s Perry Gotell. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick
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The sun sets on Virginia Beach, Virginia. Photo courtesy Pam Windsor. 36 • Byways
The Beaches of Virginia Beach By Pam Windsor
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Sandbridge Beach. Photos courtesy Pam Windsor.
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irginia Beach has always been a popular vacation destination thanks to its beautiful, scenic beaches covering some 35 miles of coastline. From the Chesapeake Bay to the North Carolina border there is plenty of sand and surf to enjoy. The three main beaches – the Virginia Beach Resort area, Chicks Beach, and Sandbridge – remain free and open to the public. Each sports a character and style of its own from the quieter, more tranquil settings of Chicks Beach and Sandbridge to the more active Virginia Beach Resort with its popular three-mile boardwalk full of hotels, shops, restaurants, food vendors, stages and evening entertainment. In addition to swimming, sunbathing and surfing, tourists and locals alike come together here to walk, run, bike, and skate along the oceanfront. And while the water and its many water-related activities serve as the biggest draw, visitors soon discover Virginia Beach has so much more to offer in the way of other attractions and some unique American historical sights.
Virginia Beach History The first English settlers sailed into Chesapeake Bay and came ashore at Cape Henry on April 26, 1607. A little more than a month later, they established the first American settlement at Jamestown. That first landing site is marked today by a big white cross not far from the water. The landing site is within walking distance of 38 • Byways
America’s first government constructed lighthouse. The Cape Henry Lighthouse, commissioned by George Washington, began guarding the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in 1792. No longer active, it’s still open for tours and a climb to the top for an amazing panoramic view. It sits just across from the newer lighthouse that
Inside the Old Coast Guard Station Museum.
replaced it, built later in 1881. The waters off the Virginia shore have had many stories to tell over the years through different points in America’s history. Many are highlighted at the Old Coast Guard Station Museum on the Virginia Beach Boardwalk. Artifacts and displays help recount tales of shipwrecks, German U-boats off the coast during World War II, and real-life rescue efforts.
Attractions Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center helps shine a light on the ocean and ocean life. One of the most visited aquariums in the nation, it features more than 300 species of animals and includes an outdoor nature trail and aviary. The Aquarium connects to an Adventure Park that offers people of all ages – 5 and up, a chance to test their skills and flexibility on a variety of courses set up above the ground and throughout the trees. There are multiple zip lines and aerial rope challenges ranging from basic to more advanced, allowing every member of a group or family a chance to take part. Outdoor sports, both on the water and off, from hiking to kayaking to jet skiing and parasailing are very popular throughout Virginia Beach. Rental equipment is available at local businesses throughout the area that are well-marked and easy to spot. Virginia Beach is well-known for its many local seafood restaurants offering culinary delights featuring the day’s fresh catch. If you’re looking for a recommendation just look for the line at the door.
The Beaches Virginia Beach’s Oceanfront Resort stretches from 1st to 40th street and features open beaches, hotels, shops and restaurants, and more. A 34-foot tall bronze statue of King Neptune – the mythical sea god – stands along the Boardwalk and welcomes visitors here. The beachfront is just down below.
Chicks Beach
Adventure Park connects to the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center.
Sandbridge Beach – further south – sits between the Atlantic Ocean and Back Bay National Wildlife refuge and goes all the way to the North Carolina border. It offers a more tranquil island-like beach setting without the hotels. Visitors here stay in big beachfront rental homes or condominiums, many just a short walk from the water’s edge. Chicks Beach (short for Chesapeake Beach) also has a quieter, calmer beach setting. The area starts at the Lynnhaven River Inlet and features gentle waves, breathtaking ocean views, and local hotspots. Many locals live here and share the space with tourists. The entire Virginia Beach area has a warm and welcoming feel to it with a little something for everyone. Travelers heading to this part of the Atlantic Ocean can certainly find their perfect spot. About the Author. Pam Windsor is a travel and feature writer currently based in Murrells Inlet, SC. She enjoys traveling and writing about the fascinating people and places she discovers.
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A 2-hour show and full meal for under $25.00 at Music City Roots. Byways photo.
In fact, many country stars started out waiting tables! We’ve heard the story about Music City Roots host Jim Lauderdale, one of Nashville’s most prolific song writers. He was invited to record an album in California, and wrote every song. But when the studio listened to t’s a short hop, skip and jump from downtown the final version of the album, they decided against proNashville, but we discovered a gem in Franklin, duction. Later, another artist heard the story, and asked Tennessee. Whether it’s a group, a family or an indi- if he could record some of those songs. He did. And vidial, it’s an experience you won’t want to miss on your every song on the album became a Number 1 country hit, next Nashville tour. and the album became the music soundtrack for the The venue is Music City Roots, a weekly celebration, movie, Pure Country. The artist? George Strait. a gathering of the community, and a showcase for the finest roots musicians locally or just passing through Nashville. It’s held every Wednesday night at Liberty Hall in the Factory in Franklin, and broadcast nationwide on the internet and many PBS Stations. Hosted by Americana star Jim Lauderdale and announcer Keith Bilbrey, Music City Roots has become a a point of disovery and a reliably great time for visitors and listeners alike. And with a full 2-hour show plus a meal priced under $25.00 per person, this may be the best value in Nashville! Everyone knows that talent runs deep in Nashville, and the line between the latest star country singer and the person waiting your table may be just the luck of the draw.
Discover Music City Roots, History in Franklin, Tennessee
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It all comes together in Franklin, in Williamson County. And there’s a reason. Years ago the planners in Williamson County realized that their close proximity to Nashville would lead to mass suburbia, as developers bought up the lush farms to cater to Nashville’s growing population. Instead, they enacted ordances which prohibilted the subdividing of properties, except in certain locations such as the local towns like Franklin. As a result, the county has become one of the most attractive locations in Tennessee, and is now
time. It has now been renovated as a dining, retail, entertainment and educational center, retaining as much as possible of the old factory look in each building. Spend some time in downtown Franklin, a downtown that looks and feels like small town America. Lunch at Gray’s on Main, which was a landmark pharmacy for nearly a century. Tour Arrington
g n i n e p p a H s ’ t Wha
the home of many of today’s leading country singers and entertainers. It’s not uncommon to find some of today’s best know entertainers jamming with those looking for their first break. At Puckett’s Grocery in Leiper’s Fork, you can buy groceries, a tank of gas, and catch up with friends over a good meal. But what makes this store unique is the small stage, and jamming sessions can go on for hours, and you’ll never know who’s going to show up. Of course, if your interest is more than music, there’s a lot going on here. The Factory in Franklin is a complex of 11-depression-era buildings with 250,000 square feet which housed different factories over its industrial life-
Vineyards, and maybe meet up with Kix Brooks of the country duo Brooks & Dunn, one of the vineyard’s partners. Finally, be sure and visit Carnton Plantation, home of the Widow of the South, the New York Times best selling novel. On November 30, 1864, the 48-acre plantation home served as a field hospital and final burial place for nearly 1500 Confederate soldiers who were killed at the Battle of Franklin. For more on Music City Roots, visit musiccityroots.com. Contact Laurie Gredgory for Group Rates: laurie@musiccityroots.com. To learn more about Williamson County and Franklin, visit www.visitwilliamson.com.
Click for Video
Carnton Plantation, home of the Widow of the South. Photo courtesy Tennessee Department of Tourist Develoment.
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Birthplace of Texas Open for Business
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Bluebonnets and wild flowers in Washington County, Texas.
deo i V or f k Clic
f you ask a Texan where the birthplace of Texas is, to this part of Texas. Visitors are encouraged to explore a myriad of family they might do a double take, as they try to remember friendly vacation opportunities – from ranch activities to the right answer. They may need to consult the history books. Actually, the correct answer is Washington on the Brazos, in Washington Texas Cotton Gin Museum. Byways photo. County Texas, near Brenham, halfway between Houston and Austin on Hwy. 290. If you ask a Texan where the home of Blue Bell Ice Cream is, they won’t hesitate. Brenham, Texas! It’s ironic that this scenic and historic region is known as much in Texas, and throughout the South, for the little Blue Bell creamery, which is now more than a century old, than for its role in creating the Texas Republic, and then State of Texas. Now, the area is coping with closure of the creamery and its wildly popular Visitor Center while the company reponds to a recall of its products. As the creamery is one of the leading tourism atrractions in the region, this year is a time to focus on history and all the many other reasons to travel 42 • Byways
movies in the park and geocaching to arts programs – all located in the idyllic setting of Washington County, TX. “We have so much to offer visitors to Brenham/Washington County,” said Page Michel, president of the Washington County Chamber of CommerceConvention & Visitors Bureau. “We’re happy to share our exciting Texas history, great outdoors and attractions with others!” Brenham/Washington County is in a scenic and historic region. A great getaway with over 30 bed & breakfasts, nine hotels, four wineries, historic Downtown Brenham, antiques shops galore, botanical garden attractions, live theatre, museums and so much more! Each spring, Bluebonnets and other wildflowers bloom with life and color in beautiful Washington County! The annual Bluebonnenet Festival has been held for more than 50 years, in the quaint, historic town of Chappell Hill, and is the Official Bluebonnet Festival of Texas. Nearby Burton is home to the Texas Cotton Gin Museum, the Official Cotton Gin Musem of Texas. The museum keeps the legacy of cotton alive for all generations through the maintenance and preservation of the 1914 Burton Farmers Gin -- the oldest operating cotton gin in America. Many Brenham residents who spent part of their child-
Flying Horses carousel. Byways photo.
hood here have wonderful memories of riding the “Flying Horses” -- the antique carousel that sits in the middle of Fireman’s Park. For many years, it has been a highlight during community events and a standard for birthday celebrations. Now fully restored, all of the Flying Horses in Brenham’s Antique Carousel bear the running martigale logo, which confirms they were carved by Charles Dare
Independence Hall stands on the cornerstones of the original building, where the Republic of Texas was formed, and where Texas became Texas.
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Star of the Republic Museum houses a collection of exhibits, artifacts and documents relative to the time Texas was a nation.
sometime between 1867 and 1901, when Dare died. The carousel itself was definitely manufactured by C. W. Parker in Kansas; during the recent restoration, Parker’s stamp was found near the top of the turning mechanism. But there’s much more to celebrate here. Enjoy national independence at the very site where Texas gained its independence in 1836: Washington on the Brazos State Historic Site. Located midway between Houston and Bryan/College Station on 293 acres of lush park land off Highway 290, the picturesque Washington on the Brazos State Historic Site gives visitors unique insights into the lives and times of the 59 delegates who met on that very spot to make a formal declaration of independence for the Republic of Texas from Mexico in 1836. This is where Texas became Texas. This Texas State Park offers many amenities and a variety of special events and activities throughout the year, at its four main attractions: the Star of the Republic Museum, Independence Hall, 44 • Byways
Barrington Living History Farm and Fanthorp Inn State Historic Site. These are just some of the reasons to visit Brenham and Washington County this year. www.VisitBrenhamTexas.com Horse ranch and B&B near Brenham. Byways photo.
Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2015 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
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Advertisers Index Bedford Welcome Center, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Best Western Colorado River Inn, California. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Brenham/Washington County, Texas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Byways Magazine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 City of Galax, Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
PA Dutch Hotels, Pennsylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Ross-Chillocothe Convention & Visitors Bureau, Ohio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
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Universal Studios Hollywood Celebrates 50th
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he spotlight shines brightly on Universal Studios Hollywood as the world-class destination celebrates a milestone 50th anniversary with the opening of the “Fast & Furious—Supercharged” thrill ride, “Springfield,” an-all new immersive experience surrounding “The Simpsons Ride,” and a “Nighttime Studio Tour” as part of the theme park’s pioneering epic transformation. And the countdown to the World of Harry Potter has begun. This monumental undertaking – the most ambitious in the theme park’s storied 50-year history – is radically altering and reimagining its familiar footprint as The Entertainment Capital of L.A. sets its sights on the next 50 years. From its humble beginnings five decades ago, Universal Studios Hollywood has emerged as one of the most progressive and exciting theme park experiences anywhere, while remaining true to its roots of immersing guests in the awe-inspiring world of movie-making magic. Since its inception, Universal Studios has lifted the veil on Hollywood’s most illustrious industry, placing guests at the heart of favorite movies and television shows. It continues to be at the forefront of innovation, imagination and inspiration, working in collaboration with some of the most influential filmmakers in the business and the greatest minds in entertainment -- Steven Spielberg, Matt Groening, James L. Brooks, Peter Jackson, Michael Bay and Chris Meledandri -- to create intriguing rides and attractions. “For 50 years, Universal Studios Hollywood has given guests unprecedented access to the world’s most alluring business by inviting them to peek behind the velvet curtain and become part of the exciting movie-making process,” said Larry Kurzweil, President of Universal Studios Hollywood. “We are reimagining over 75 percent of our destination as we build upon our incredible success and expand our vision for the future, and we look forward to entertaining and inspiring guests for generations to come with what will ultimately be an entirely new theme park experience.” The “Glamour Trams” of yesteryear that gave way to today’s world-famous Studio Tour is undergoing a top to bottom makeover to coincide with the 50th anniversary, and by 2016, will roll out a fleet of new, contempo46 • Byways
rary trams, including the installation of ultra-comfy cushioned seats. Led by expert guides, the acclaimed Studio Tour remains a hallmark Universal Studios Hollywood attraction bringing millions of guests through an authentic movie and television studio and into its elusive world motivated by three compelling words: lights, camera, action.
This summer, high-octane excitement will race onto the scene when Universal Studios Hollywood introduces “Fast & Furious—Supercharged,” a pulse-pounding, adrenaline-fueled thrill ride as the new grand finale to the world-famous Studio Tour. This gripping, technologically-advanced ride, inspired by Universal Pictures’ most successful film franchise of all time and featuring the film’s original cast members, will propel guests into the high-stakes underground world of fast cars and daring escapades traveling at accelerated speeds of up to 120 miles per hour. Situated within a newly constructed 65,000 square foot building on the legendary backlot, the high speed, 3D-HD ride will reunite stars from the Fast & Furious series – Vin Diesel (Dominic “Dom” Toretto), Dwayne Johnson (Luke Hobbs), Michelle Rodriguez (Letty Ortiz), Tyrese Gibson (Roman Pearce) and Luke Evans (Owen Shaw) – in a revolutionary mega-attraction, conceived as a new installment to the dynamic film series that can only be experienced at The Entertainment Capital of L.A. The layout of the park will become unrecognizable when “Springfield,” hometown of America’s favorite family, The Simpsons, breathes new life to the sprawling and vibrant space surrounding “The Simpsons Ride.” “Springfield” is designed to capture the spirit of the animated town and engage visitors and fans of the show in the intensely absorbing and colorful world made famous throughout the series’ record-setting 26 seasons. Universal’s slate of new 2015 attractions will entertain from sunup to sundown when the theme park broadens the scope of its popular Studio Tour with the introduction of a “Nighttime Studio Tour,” designed to enlighten guests on the art of moonlight movie-making.
Countdown to World of Harry Potter The countdown to “The Wizarding World of Harry Potter™” has begun as Universal Studios HollywoodSM announces the Spring 2016 arrival of the West Coast’s most anticipated entertainment experience and the introduction of the land’s signature attraction, “Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey” in hyper-realistic 3D-HD. More than five years in the making, and inspired by J. K. Rowling’s compelling stories and characters and the Warner Bros. films, “The Wizarding World of Harry Potter” at Universal Studios Hollywood will bring guests the same authenticity and storytelling found at Universal Orlando Resort and Universal Studios Japan and is expected to attract Harry Potter fans and visitors from all over the globe for decades to come. Visitors will be swept into a fully immersive themed land that brings the Harry Potter fiction and films to life with impeccable detail and precision. “The Wizarding World of Harry Potter” will be faithful to the visual landscape of the fiction and films, including Hogwarts castle which will serve as its iconic focal point. “Harry Potter is an exhilarating multi-generational global phenomenon that has captivated the world’s atten-
tion across every one of its mediums, from books and movies to exhilarating theme park adventures,” said Larry Kurzweil, President of Universal Click for Video S t u d i o s Hollywood. “With its imminent arrival to The Entertainment Capital of L.A., Universal Studios Hollywood is thrilled to bring our guests a new, compelling experience of ‘The Wizarding World of Harry Potter’ as we embark on this next chapter in our storied history.” The excitement that these new rides, attractions and themed immersive lands will bring to guests is only a prelude to the highly-anticipated arrival of “The Wizarding World of Harry Potter™” in 2016. www.universalstudioshollywood.com
Video r e t t Po Harry r o f Click
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